Kasen (Fountain Valley, CA)

Kasen
9039 Garfield Ave, Fountain Valley, CA 92708
714.963.8769
www.ocweekly.com/food/feature-review/you-gotta-really-like-fish/22015/ (review, restaurant has no website)
Fri 03/30/2007, 07:25p-08:55p



I had heard some good things about Kasen on the Chowhound boards, so I decided to check it out, all in an effort to explore various sushi joints in Orange County. I'm still looking for place that matches the best that Los Angeles has to offer.


Kasen is located in a rather drab looking strip mall. A sign warns that the restaurant is booked up for the night.



The restaurant consists of a bar, headed by owner Susumu Ii, that seats around 16 people, a small alcove of tables where we were seated, and a tatami room.


The chopsticks etched with the restaurant logo are a nice touch.


For sake, we had our favorite, Kubota Manjyu (had this at Urasawa and Sushi Wasabi before), and its little brother, Kubota Hekijyu. We ordered omakase so we didn't get to see the regular menu. Apparently there is an extended omakase menu with more cooked items that requires advance notice. There is also an à la carte sushi menu (note that no prices are listed!). Click for larger versions.


The Manjyu is on the left, Hekijyu on the right. The blue glasses remind me of those at Urasawa. The Manjyu had a much more pronounced bouquet and definitive notes of rice. The Hekijyu was a bit drier and sharper. Both were great, though I'd still go for the Manjyu if price weren't a consideration.


1: Squid
With Japanese honey mustard and seaweed. The mustard provided a bit of fire while the squid had a firm texture that provided a nice crunch, yet wasn't tough. A nice way to start the meal.


2: Sashimi
From the upper left, we have toro, tako, hamachi, sake, and tai. My favorites were the toro (of course) and sake, though all were very nice and didn't necessitate any soy sauce. We were intrigued with the wasabi, which had an odd color and a slight sesame flavor. We inquired and it turns out that it's real wasabi, frozen and shipped from Japan (but no sesame).


3: Chawan Mushi
This was egg custard with shrimp, fish, shitake mushroom, and cilantro, served with a cute spoon. The taste was very light, though it was a bit too subtle for my tastes.


4: Snapper
This was red snapper with tofu and gobo root I believe. For me this was the weakest dish of the night. The snapper was cooked well enough, but I didn't care for the tofu and gobo.



5: Sushi
Going counter-clockwise from bottom center, we have tuna roll, hamachi (a softer texture than I'm used to), ikura, maguro (classic tuna taste), hirame, aji (milder flavor than one typically encounters), ebi (pretty good for cooked shrimp), awabi, anago, and mirugai (very chewy texture). Overall a decent presentation, though I've would've much preferred it if the nigiri came out one by one.


6: Miso Soup
This was a very strongly flavored miso soup, though not in a bad way. It was one of the better interpretations I've had in a while.



Amaebi & Kohada
This was an extra order of sweet shrimp (replete with deep fried head) and gizzard shad. Both were quite delicious and were the two best pieces of nigiri of the night.


7: Sorbet & Green Tea
The sorbet had a distinctly citrusy flavor. Yuzu perhaps? In any case, it was quite refreshing and closed out the meal well.

Catal (Anaheim, CA)

Catal Restaurant
1580 S Disneyland Dr, Anaheim, CA 92802
714.774.4442
www.patinagroup.com/catal/
Sat 03/24/2007, 09:10p-10:55p



Fine dining at Disneyland? I was a bit skeptical, but I'm happy to report that, yes, it is indeed possible. Much to my surprise, Catal is actually part of the Patina Group, which includes such SoCal staples as the namesake Patina in Downtown, Nick & Stef's, and Pinot Provence. The next Patina property we'll be visiting is probably Joachim Splichal's newest venture: Leatherby's Cafe Rouge at the Renee and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall.


Catal consists of a number of rooms and outdoor patio terraces, separated by floor-to-ceiling windows. Our seat proved a good vantage point for enjoying the nightly Disneyland fireworks.


The dinner contains a variety of Mediterranean-inspired dishes created by executive chef Nicholas Weber. The dessert menu is not quite as innovative, but does have a decent sized drinks list, though I would've liked to have seen more dessert wines (late harvest, eiswein, etc.). Click for larger versions.


The wine list combines breadth with reasonable prices. Our table wasn't quite ready when we arrived, so we decided to order wine at the bar. I had the 2004 Schmitt Söhne Spätlese, Mosel, Germany while my dining companion had the 2005 Viognier, Zaca Mesa, Santa Barbara. We both agreed that the Riesling was better. Along with our entrees, we had the 2005 Echelon Pinot Noir, Central Coast and the 2004 Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon, California. Click for larger versions.


Several varieties of bread were offered. The dip was a mixture of olive oil and balsamic vinegar.


Grilled skewer of Spanish chorizo
With garlic roasted potatoes and saffron aïoli. While the chorizo was quite delectable, the real star for me here was the potato.


Oysters on the half shell
With the requisite lemon and mignonette granita. What we have here is a quintessential expression of oyster: briny, mineral-y, and subtly sweet.


Smoked salmon
With chives, lemon crème fraiche, watercress, toasted coriander, Fleur de Sel and crispy pastry. The salmon was a bit sweet for my tastes. I prefer it more savory and I also had a difficult time discerning many of the flavors here. My dining companion quite liked the crispy pastry, though I wasn't nearly as big a fan.


Tuna tartare
With blood orange reduction, yuzu vinaigrette, avocado and fire-roasted shishito peppers. Tuna tartares have become such a mainstay on menus nowadays, so it's not often that I'm pleasantly surprised like I was with this. The citrusy tang of yuzu and the slight shishito spice added just enough flavor to the tuna. Loved the compartmentalized presentation on this one!


Grilled venison filet
With roasted lettuce, molten chestnut cake and sauce grand veneur. The meat turned out to be much more tender that I thought it would be, while the taste was mild, and not particularly gamy. The sauce and the lettuce complemented the venison well, but I wasn't a fan of the chestnut cake.


Wild Burgundy escargot
With Du Puy lentils, garlic broth, tomatoes, parsley and pain de mie croutons. I've never had escargot quite like this before. Unlike most preparations, this was actually quite light (perhaps too much so), without the heavy sauces that typically accompany snail. I still prefer the buttery, garlicky, stereotypical bourguignonne variation however.


Cinnamon sugar dusted churros
With café mocha semi-freddo, which I used to dip the churros in. As for the churros themselves, they were among the best I've ever had. I ate this with Frangelico, a hazelnut and herb-flavored liqueur from Canale, Italy. It was actually my first experience with Frangelico and the combination worked pretty well.


Milk chocolate caramel torte
With chocolate gelato and homemade peanut brittle. This proved a competently crafted construction of chocolate, thought not particularly distinctive. We had this with Dry Sack sherry.

Vik's Chaat Corner (Berkeley, CA)

Vik's Chaat Corner
726 Allston Way, Berkeley, CA 94710
510.644.4412
www.vikschaatcorner.com
Fri 03/16/2007, 04:55p-05:20p



Thanks to my roommate, I discovered Indian food during my undergraduate years at Cal. In that context, Vik's was always a holy grail of sorts, as I heard nothing but rave reviews about the place. Unfortunately, during my tenure at Berkeley, I never made it out, partly, I suspect, since I didn't have a car until my last year. But then here I was, standing in front of Vik's four years later. Sure brings me back...


Decor? What decor? Very industrial warehouse-chic (in fact the rest of the building is a warehouse of sorts). But I sort of like it, since with ambiance this bad, the food must be good!


A rather tattered menu pulled from under the counter. Items are also listed on a chalkboard. Click for larger versions.


Thums Up
Yes, there's a "b" missing. Thums Up is an Indian cola made by Coca-Cola. It has a unique taste, quite a bit stronger than your typical Coke or Pepsi, and pairs beautifully with the strong, spicy flavors of Indian chaat.


Aloo Tikki Cholle
Potato patties stuffed with green peas and covered with cholle, onions and chutnies. Very nice, I especially enjoyed the liberal use of mint chutney, onion, and cilantro. Not too spicy, since I suspect they toned it down a bit for me. I can definitely see where all the hype comes from!

Slanted Door (San Francisco, CA)

The Slanted Door
1 Ferry Building, San Francisco, CA 94111
415.861.8032
www.slanteddoor.com
Fri 03/16/2007, 02:50p-03:15p



I had heard good things about Slanted Door, so I definitely wanted to give it a shot, especially since I was going to be in the Ferry Building anyway. I actually wanted to go here before Taylor's, but it was ridiculously crowded when I showed up for the first time. I spent around 10 minutes wandering around the bar waiting for a seat to open, but soon realized that it was an exercise in futility and left to get a burger.


I returned after Taylor's. This crowd had thinned a bit, since it was now teatime. I got a seat at the bar, as you can see, not exactly the view of the Bay I had in mind.


Though I was there during teatime, I asked for a copy of the dinner menu, which my server was a bit reluctant to give. There are definitely some interesting selections I wouldn't mind coming back and trying. They have a pretty interesting selection of beers and teas, but I ended with a glass of Riesling, Strub, Spätlese, Niersteiner Oelberg, Rheinhessen, 2004, which I rather enjoyed. Click for larger versions.


Slanted Door Spring Rolls
With shrimp, pork, mint and peanut sauce. This was a bit of a disappointment. There was far too much noodle, while the shrimp and pork lacked flavor. I guess it's tough to be impressed with a spring roll when you've had Brodard's transcendent nem nuong cuon. Granted, it's a different kind of roll, but still...

Taylor's Automatic Refresher (San Francisco, CA)

Taylor's Automatic Refresher
1 Ferry Building, San Francisco, CA 94111
866.328.3663
www.taylorsrefresher.com
Fri 03/16/2007, 01:40p-02:30p



Already having gorged myself on three tasting menus in the days prior, I reserved my final day in San Francisco for some simpler fare. Taylor's had been on my list to try for a while, simply because it's just such an icon of a restaurant. I actually considered going to the St. Helena branch while I was up in Napa but couldn't fit it in, so it was off to the Ferry Building location (parking was atrocious, I left my car sitting in a red zone for ten minutes waiting for the valet to show up, only to find that the valet lot was full, I ended up walking a bit).



I went well after peak lunch hours, but there was still a 20-minute line outside. I imagine a good portion of the clientele consists of tourists. In any case, once inside, you order at one end of the counter and pick up your food at the other end, once your buzzer rings. There is actually a separate counter for drinks.


Taylor's has the most reasonable wine prices I've ever seen, by a mile. For example, the Opus and the Insignia sell for roughly their retail prices. But the really crazy thing is that the 2002 Shafer Hillside Select goes for $250; I haven't seen it sold online for less than $350! Is it a typo? What's going on here? Click for larger versions.


Root Beer Float
With vanilla bean ice cream. Great tasting float, especially the ice cream, but I was a bit disappointed that it was pre-made (stored in a freezer).


Cheeseburger
Topped with sliced American cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickles & secret sauce on a toasted egg bun. A very well made burger, cooked slightly pink on the inside, the way I like it. The egg bun was something different.

Dining Room (San Francisco, CA)

The Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton
600 Stockton St, San Francisco, CA 94108
415.773.6168
www.ritzcarltondiningroom.com
Thu 03/15/2007, 07:00p-09:20p



Originally I hadn't planned on going to The Dining Room during my trip, instead having Fleur de Lys in mind on my culinary itinerary. However, plans quickly changed when I found out that Fleur de Lys was a long walk from my hotel, uphill, a steep hill at that. The fact that my server at Masa's the night earlier recommended The Dining Room didn't hurt either. In fact, The Dining Room's executive chef Ron Siegel used to head the kitchen at Masa's. Actually, both Siegel and Masa's current executive chef Gregory Short are ex-French Laundry. That brings up the number of Laundry alum's restaurants I've sampled to four, the other two being Eric Ziebold's CityZen and Grant Achatz's Alinea.

Unfortunately we will have to live without the usual decor photos. I actually forgot to insert the memory card in my camera, so I had to rely on the 10MB of internal memory. Needless to say, I had to conserve my shots. I would describe the main dining room as bathed in traditional French elegance, a bit too traditional perhaps, especially when viewed in contrast to Siegel's inventive creations.


The night's nine-course tasting menu, which is available "upon request," is shown above. The courses served are not printed on the regular menu; I requested that my courses be typed and provided to take home at the end of the meal. I also had the sommelier Stephane Lacroix provide half-glass wine pairings for each course. I need to note that the pours were extremely generous as these were the largest "half-glasses" I've ever had; in fact, by the end of it, I was quite a bit tipsy, good thing I didn't drive! Six-course and vegetarian tastings are also available, as well as à la carte selections. Click for a larger version.


Pre-Amuse Bouche
I was presented with this shortly after I sat down (right after the Champagne cart, more on that later). What we have is spinach in puff pastry, with four different kinds of tuiles. I didn't particularly care for the tuiles but enjoyed the savory little morsels.


A variety of bread was offered: sourdough, black currant, oak molasses, sourdough with fennel and sesame, and marbled rye (which reminded me of that Seinfeld episode...). My favorite was the sourdough with fennel and sesame. Very mild butter.


Amuse Bouche 1
This rather pretty amuse consisted of scallop, Hollandaise, asparagus, and black truffle. Rather tasty, though I would've liked to have the entire scallop! Before this arrived, I also ordered an item from the Champagne cart, the coppery-hued brut, the Henriot Rosé. It had been a while I had a rosé and I found it to be citrus-y, spicy, with a crisp, clean finish. There were three other selections; I believe they were the Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs, the Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve, and the Heidsieck Monopole Diamant Bleu.


Amuse Bouche 2
The second amuse was a sea urchin panna cotta with lobster and vanilla oil. I wasn't too fond of this one, as I felt the flavors were a bit muddled.


Amuse Bouche 3
The was by far the most fascinating item I had that night. We have poached quail egg and caviar, sitting on plastic wrap, atop a glass filled with cedarwood smoke. When the spoon is lifted, the smoke exits the glass, enveloping the eater with an aroma which enhances the flavors of the other ingredients. This is only the second time I've seen aromas used in such a manner, the first was at Alinea, naturally. And yes, this sets a personal record for the number of amuses in a meal.


1: Carrot Soup
Pinot Auxerrois, Val St Gregoire, Domaine Erhart, Alsace, 2003
With Lobster Tortellini, Black Truffles. A very rich, creamy soup, with only a hint of carrot essence. The tortellini was a nice surprise at the bottom. Excellent use of the truffles here.


2: Prawn Sashimi
Grüner Veltliner, Rotes Tor, Hirtzberger, Wachau, Austria, 2005
With Japanese Salts, Pink Peppercorn, Yuzu Gelée. Quite a bit different from the typical sweet shrimp, much crisper and milder; and I loved the peppercorns and how the server grated fresh wasabi on sharkskin. The deep fried heads? Better than any I've had from a sushi restaurant.


3: Turbot
Tables Creek, Espirit de Beaucastel, Paso Robles, 2003
With Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Artichokes, Clam Foam. I wasn't a huge fan of the foam here. The turbot was good enough, but didn't come close to the turbot I had at Arterra (best turbot I've ever had).


4: Poached Maine Lobster
Viré-Clessé, Domaine de la Bongran, Burgundy, 2002
With Hearts of Palm, Baby Carrots, Blood Orange Reduction. This was a well-cooked piece of lobster, though I thought the blood orange reduction was far too sweet and tended to overpower the meat.


5: Seared Foie Gras
Riesling, Oberhäuser Brücke, Auslese, Dönnhoff, Nahe, 1999
With Apple Terrine Gewürztraminer, Apple Reduction, Long Pepper, Spiced Bread. I think this was the biggest piece of foie I've ever had! It was actually very nice, considering I'm not a huge foie fan (though I am warming up to it...).


6: Quail
Barbera d'Asti, Ca' di Pian, La Spinetta, Piedmont, 2004
With Sweetbread, Baby Leeks, Sweet Carrot Purée, Pea Tendril Sauce. Both the quail and the sweetbread were incredibly flavorful. Loved the color of the sauce!


7: Suckling Pig
Lancaster Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2002
With Cauliflower Purée, Morel Mushroom, Asparagus, Green Peppercorn Sauce. I'm not usually a pork fan but this was a great rendition of the hog. I especially enjoyed the crisp, delectable skin.


8: Apple Sorbet
With Quince Gelée, Apple Chip. A refreshing intermezzo, setting the palate perfectly for dessert.


9: Panna Cotta
Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Domaine de Durban, Rhone, 2004
With Pineapple Vanilla Soup, Strawberry Gelée, Gewürztraminer Meringue, Tangerine Sorbet. I remember the panna cotta had a notes of coconut, but unfortunately I don't remember much else, as I was pretty tipsy at this point in the meal!


Mignardises
Mignardises came out on a huge cart, which I wish I could've gotten a photo of. I had green tea, hazelnut, and gelée, among others.


I also received a box of caramels to take way, probably the best caramels I've ever had mind you. A nice touch.

Masa's Restaurant (San Francisco, CA)

Masa's Restaurant
648 Bush St, San Francisco, CA 94108
415.989.7154
www.masasrestaurant.com
Wed 03/14/2007, 07:10p-09:15p



Of all the restaurants I researched in San Francisco, Masa's had one of the most interesting menus, so I just had to check it out. The fact that it was Michelin-rated with a French Laundry alum at the helm certainly didn't hurt either.


The decor is minimalist, if not a bit stark. There is only one main dining room, with a small bar area near the entrance (behind the curtains).


The à la carte and tasting menus. I went for the nine-course tasting menu, which contained a number of dishes from the à la carte menu. What's interesting is that the menu is offered in alternating preparations; I would've like to have seen what the alternate choices were. Note the signature of executive chef Gregory Short. Click for larger versions.


Pre-Amuse Bouche
This was the first time I've had a "pre-amuse," basically something given right after I sat down. It was Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Truffle Cheese Puff. For bread, raisin, olive, and sourdough varieties were offered.


Amuse Bouche
Arugula Gelée, Pear Foam. The gelée was interesting, and had a much greener tone than shown in the photo.


1: Domestic Osetra Caviar
Wakatake "Daiginjo" sake
A generous dollop with crème fraîche, smoked sturgeon terrine, red radish, lemon oil. The saltiness of the roe and the creaminess of the crème fraîche formed a nice contrast. The sake was an unusual pairing (I'm used to Champagne or vodka), but worked out quite nicely.


2: "Pad Thai"
Josef Rosch Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 2005
With Hawaiian hearts of palm, toasted peanuts, bean sprouts, scallions, micro cilantro, tamarind vinaigrette, peanut tuile. A fairly convincing interpretation of the ubiquitous Thai original, the "noodles" were actually made of the hearts of palm. Fantastic Riesling too!


3: Pan Seared Maine Diver Scallop
Artesa Chardonnay, Carneros, 2005
With parsnip purée, perigord truffles, truffle broth. The truffle added some stronger flavors to the subtlety of the scallop.


4: Miso Glazed Japanese Hamachi
Willakenzie Estate Pinot Gris, Oregon, 2004
With purple sticky rice, picked sea bean salad. Hamachi is something I have extremely often at sushi restaurants, but I think this may have been my first experience with the fish cooked. I think I still prefer the raw variety, though this was quite tasty, especially with the purple rice.


5: Hudson Valley Foie Gras
Champalou Vouvray Cuvée des Fondraux 2005
With confit squab leg, poached winter fruit, apple gastrique, frisée. Nice piece of foie, made even better by the excellent confit underneath it.


6: Sautéed Paine Farm Squab
Domaine de la Charbonniere, Vacqueyras, 2004
With honey roasted quince, rainbow swiss chard, wild huckleberry sauce. I usually love squab and this was no exception. I especially liked the skin.


7: Pan Roasted Ribeye of Dry-Aged Beef
Hope & Grace Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2003
With maitake mushrooms, braised green garlic, aged sherry vinegar sauce. A great cut of beef, tender, yet flavorful, maybe the best cut of rib eye I've had ever. The Cab was a quintessential expression of the varietal.


Fromage
Cossart Gordon Bual Madeira 15 year
This was actually not part of the tasting menu but something that I requested to be added on. We have: Tête de Monde - Sheep, Lumiere Camembert Green Hill Georgia - Cow, Windsor Blue New Zealand - Cow, Midnight Moon McKinleyville California - Goat. All were quite good, though my favorite was the camembert.


8: Apple and Young Ginger Sorbet
With sour apple soup. The tartness of the apple and ginger made this incredibly refreshing.


9: Chocolate Bavarian Bar
Niepoort Colheita Port, 1994
With sorbet, gelée, chicory ice cream. This may be the most beautiful dessert I've ever eaten. Stunning!


Mignardises
After dinner treats included lychee gelée, raspberry truffle, mint pyramid, and maple and mushroom truffle. There were actually many more varieties brought out on a fancy cart, which I wish I could've gotten a photo of.

Bouchon (Yountville, CA)

Bouchon
6534 Washington St, Yountville, CA 94599
707.944.8037
www.bouchonbistro.com
Tue 03/13/2007, 05:40p-07:10p



I believe Bouchon was Thomas Keller's second restaurant after the Laundry. The food is strictly French bistro fare, so perhaps not as far of a stretch as Ad Hoc. The restaurant was recently rated one-star by the famed Michelin guide, and there is also a location in Las Vegas at the Venetian.


I quite liked the decor of the place...so French. Table spacing is a bit tight though. The dress code was surprisingly casual.


Definitely one of the more unique menu presentations I've seen. There are a lot of items I'd like to try on my next visit back. Click for a larger version.


Plenty of French baguette is provided, along with two spreads.


Along with the meal, we drank a Martinelli Vineyard Dry Select Gewürztraminer, Russian River Valley, 2004 we purchased from literally across the street (at V Wine Cellar). It was quite good. Corkage was a reasonable $20.


Sautéed Foie Gras
This was one of the specials of the night. It was served with apricot and "French toast" and was one of the most saccharine preparations of foie I've ever had.


Crab and Lobster Salad
This was the other special. It was served with frisée salad and toasted brioche (an interesting pairing). Lots of meat and very little filler. My only complaint was that it had a bit of shell.


Poulet Rôti
Roasted chicken with French green lentils, pearl onions, button mushrooms, bacon lardons, sauce Chasseur. My dining companion ordered this so I didn't get a chance to sample unfortunately. I believe it was said to be quite delish though.


Moules au Safran et à la Moutarde
Maine bouchot mussels steamed in white wine, mustard & saffron, served with french fries. Step aside McDonald's, these are now the best pommes frites I've ever tasted! Salty, savory, skin-on, simply scrumptious. As for the mussels, a generous portion with great flavor, though not as firm as I'd like.


Finishing off with mignardises is usually a good sign of the intended quality of a restaurant. We had chocolate chip cookie, some sort of gelée, "Oreo" cookie, a macaroon, and finally a peanut butter cookie. A nice way to close the meal!

Ad Hoc (Yountville, CA)

Ad Hoc
6476 Washington St, Yountville, CA 94599
707.944.2487
www.adhocrestaurant.com
Mon 03/12/2007, 08:00p-10:15p



Thomas Keller does comfort food? What's this world coming to? Apparently, Keller had always wanted to do a "burgers & bottles" type of restaurant and bought a vacant restaurant down the street from his French Laundry with that very intent. While plans were finalized, a temporary, or ad hoc (get it?), restaurant would be opened so that the space wouldn't go to waste. But it turns out that Ad Hoc was a bit of a smashing success, so the future of the restaurant remains unclear. Reports on the Internet told me that the place was here to stay, but when I asked Ed Keller (Thomas Keller's father, ask me about that story some other time) about the issue, he just smiled...


Ad Hoc's signage is instantly recognizable. The decor is refined yet unpretentious, sleek yet inviting. Approximately half of the restaurant is the bar area pictured above, while the other half is off to the left.


Picky eaters need not apply: Ad Hoc only offers one four-course prix fix menu per night, served family style, centered around one main entrée, fried chicken for tonight. Other main courses have included beef stroganoff, pot roast, and hamburgers. Note our wine selections drawn/written down by our server. Click for a larger version.


We ordered two bottles of wine: the HdV "De La Guerra" Chardonnay 2004 Napa and the ICI/La Bas "Elke Vineyard" Pinot Noir 2003 Mendocino pictured here. They were recommended by our server, who I might add, was very persuasive in his selling of the wine. Both wines were superb and savored immensely by the entire party. In fact, the HdV was thoroughly enjoyed by one diner who was a staunch non-drinker of chards. Note the very informal wine glasses.


1: Hearts of Romaine Salad
With pickled red onions, torn garlic croutons, Hobb's bacon lardons and herbed cream dressing. I'd never had a salad presented in such a manner before! I loved the crispness of the Romaine and the subtle saltiness of the lardons. FYI: Lardons are taken from the rendered back fat on a pig.



2: Buttermilk Fried Chicken
With Blue Lake green beans, cole slaw and garlic whipped potatoes. I will say without hesitation that this was the best fried chicken I've ever had; sorry Colonel! The sides were fantastic as well and we actually had to box some of the chicken and potato to go.


3: Pedrozo Dairy Blondie's Best
With Comice (oft considered the sweetest and juiciest) pears and toasted almonds, which really complemented the cheese. Pedrozo is located in Orland, CA and this is a raw cow's milk cheese named after one of the dairy's first cows.


4: Apple Crisp
Made with Fiji apples and served with vanilla ice cream. My only complaint here was that it was served a bit too hot for me (and thus I had to cool it down with the ice cream!).

Going into Ad Hoc, I thought the concept was interesting, and now I can say that the execution was near flawless. Truly, Ad Hoc demonstrates that food doesn't have to be fancy to be fantastic.

Cakebread Cellars (Napa, CA)

Cakebread Cellars
8300 St Helena Hwy, Napa, CA 94558
800.588.0298
www.cakebread.com
Mon-Wed 03/12-14/2007



After the wine industry panel discussion on Day 2, we had the chance to have lunch with the panelists.


1: Butter Lettuce, Endive Salad
2005 Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc
With Asparagus, Avocado and Blood Orange. I'm not usually a salad guy, but this was nice, everything tasted so fresh, I loved the avocado!


2: Niman Ranch Pork Lion
2004 Cakebread Cellars Zinfandel
With Bacon, Cippolini-Cremini Mushroom Ragout and Celery Root Puree. Good pork flavor, though onions were a bit too sweet for me.


3: Selection of Artisan Cheeses and Fresh Fruit
2003 Cakebread Cellars Benchland Select
With grapes, apricots, and figs. My favorite was Humboldt Fog, a soft, surface ripened cheese. The texture was rich and creamy, with a slight tanginess.


On Day 3, the group went to Cakebread's Dancing Bear Ranch up in Howell Mountain. Here, we were to cook our own lunch, which Jack and Dolores Cakebread would sample later in the day.


The menu that we were supposed to prepare (with assistance from the resident chefs, of course). Click for larger version.



A team of two or three was assigned to each item on the menu. I was part of the tri-tip trio.


1: Empanadas
2005 Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc
With Spinach, Currants and Pine Nuts. This was the first of the four appetizers. A good way to kick things off, but they were just a tad too sweet for my tastes, probably due to the currants.


2: Crostini
2005 Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc
With Beet Tartare and Goat Cheese. These actually turned out a lot better than I thought they would. Really nice!


3: Grilled Pizzas
2005 Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc
One with Spring Garlic, Asparagus and Crescenza Cheese and one with Wild Mushrooms, Fontina Cheese and Pancetta. Both were tasty, though I, along with most of the others, like the mushroom pizza better.


4: Spanish-Spiced Pork Brochettes
2005 Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc
Really tender, with a nice kick to them.


5: Smoked Trout Salad
2005 Cakebread Cellars Anderson Valley Chardonnay
With Endive, Sweet Peas, Shaved Fennel and Horseradish Crème Fraîche. Wonderful salad, one of the best I've had ever. The trout was fantastic and I loved the firm pop of the peas. Delish!


6: Grilled Tri-Tip
2004 Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
With Ancho Relish, Wood Oven-Roasted Yukon Gold Potatoes with Fresh Thyme. My team was responsible for this. There were problems cooking this thoroughly in the wood-burning oven, so it had to be thrown back into the regular oven for more cooking. A little tough, but not bad for a tri-tip. The ancho relish was more fruity than I prefer; I would've like to have seen a more savory garnish. The potatoes were perfect.


7: Starwberry and Rhubarb Galette
Coffee
With Vanilla Ice Cream. The ice cream was homemade and had a somewhat grittier texture than I'm used to, which I liked actually. Tough to go wrong with this.

For the entire set of Cakebread U photos, see Days 1 & 2 and Day 3.

Michael Mina (San Francisco, CA)

Michael Mina
335 Powell St, San Francisco, CA 94102
415.397.9222
www.michaelmina.net/michaelmina_sanfrancisco/
Sun 03/11/2007, 08:35p-10:45p



This was my second experience with Michael Mina, the first being at Stonehill Tavern at the St. Regis in Dana Point. I wasn't sure what to expect. On one hand, I had a great time there. But at the same time, I had heard negative things from a friend about Mina's venture at the Bellagio (one of his many in Las Vegas, actually).


Michael Mina is located inside the Westin St. Francis, and the restaurant's decor reflects the hotel's grand scale, replete with rising pillars and soaring ceilings. From a table along the back wall, we see a bar/lounge area (as well as the entrance to the kitchen) to the left and the main dining room to the right.


I went for the seven-course (had both cheese and dessert) tasting menu with wine pairings. Note Chef Mina's signature method of interpreting an ingredient through three different preparations. Click for a larger version.


Left: A beautiful place setting, which looks like a scallop shell to me. The flying saucer shaped object holds a lamp. Right: Nice presentation of bread, though I really would've liked to have more than one variety offered.


Amuse Bouches
Chartogne Taillet Cuvée Michael Mina, Champagne NV
There were two amuses. First up was Dungeness Crab and Fennel Salad with Serrano Ham. The savoriness of the ham provided the crab with just enough of a salty kick. Next was the Truffle and Parsnip Flan & Crispy Oyster in Mushroom Emulsion. I didn't care too much for the flan but the oyster was quite tasty. The accompanying Champagne was complementary, which was a really nice touch. Overall the amuses were a wonderful way to kick off the evening.



1: Trio of Sashimi
Toni Jost 'Bacharacher Hanh' Riesling Kabinett, Mittelrhein 2005
We have the first of Mina's signature threesomes: Japanese Fluke, Heart of Palm, Honey-Lime; Tasmanian Trout, Avocado, Green Apple Ponzu; and King Amberjack, Scallion, Mushroom Yuzu. All were very fresh and tasty, though my favorite was the last one, the hamachi with enoki. Also loved the paired Riesling.


2: Seared Tai Snapper - Maine Sweet Shrimp
Vincent Girardin Meursault 'Le Limozin', Burgundy 2002
With Truffle Salsify, Potato Gnocchi, Chervil. I've had snapper countless time at sushi restaurants; however I believe this was my first time having the fish prepared cooked, so I was a bit wary. My fears were unfounded, as the snapper turned out very well, especially the skin. Speaking of sushi, the sweet shrimp was unlike anything I've had at a sushi joint; the texture was totally different the shrimp was much "sweeter." Great gnocchi as well.



3: Sonona County Duck - Foie Gras
Anam Cara Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon 2004
Here we have the second threeway: Saffron Couscous, Asian Pear, Pistachios; Barley Risotto, Cranberry, Pecan; and Quinoa, Huckleberries, Almonds. All three pieces of duck were expertly cooked with crispy, juicy, flavorful skin. The third preparation, with a hint of rosemary, was my favorite.


4: Colorado Rack of Lamb
Qupé Cuvée Michael Mina Syrah, Santa Barbara County 2004
With Yellow Bell Pepper, Curried Eggplant, Caperberries. Great piece of lamb, cooked rare, the way I like it. The lamb-stuffed tortellini in the background was superb as well. As for the Qupé, I had the exact same wine at Stonehill Tavern, also paired with Colorado lamb.



5: Braised Kobe-Style Beef Zabuton
Sirita Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2003
The last savory triad of the night: Boiler Onion, Yukon, Rosemary Garlic; Swiss Chard, Purple Peruvian, Burgundy; and Celery, Sweet Potato, Soy Ginger. All three bites were incredibly rich, decadent, and melt-in-your-mouth. Actually it reminded me of the beef I had at Urasawa. This was my second time with the Sirita; we had it with Kobe at Stonehill as well, though it was the 2000.


6: Selection of Artisan Cheeses
Billecart-Salmon Demi Sec, Champagne NV
With Toasted Walnut Levain, Assorted Fruits, Candied Nuts. From left to right, we have sheep, cow, and goat cheeses. I had a slight preference for the cow's, and loved all the accoutrements provided. This was my first time having Champagne with cheese, but it worked out well due to the sweetness of the demi sec.



6: Dessert Sampler
Kracher Cuvée Ba, Illmitz, Austria 2005
At last, the final trinity: Lime, Meringue, Pie Crust Ice Cream; Pineapple Financier, Roasted Coconut Cream; and Molten Chocolate Cake, Milk Chocolate-Bergamot Ice Cream. I thought the ice creams were quite interesting, though the rest were a bit ordinary.


Lollipops
This must be a Michael Mina thing, because we had nearly the same lollipops at Stonehill. Basically chocolate-covered ice cream, a wonderful, tasty way to end the evening. Best petit fours ever!

I'm happy to report that Chef Mina did not disappoint in San Francisco and is now 2 for 2. And I can't say that I'm too surprised. This flagship of Mina's empire is actually Michelin two-star rated and in my estimation, deserves it.

Penrose Room (Colorado Springs, CO)

Penrose Room
1 Lake Ave, Colorado Springs, CO 80906
719.577.5733
www.broadmoor.com/penrose-room.php
Fri 03/09/2007, 06:50p-08:45p



The Penrose room is another Broadmoor restaurant that I visited early on. My earliest visit was a bit of a letdown, as I felt the place was a bit tired, a bit staid. Apparently I wasn't the only one to feel this way, and so the Broadmoor decided to renovate the place, updating the decor as well as the chef. The new chef is Bertrand Bouqin, who also runs the Broadmoor's Summit restaurant. His goal was to turn the Penrose Room from a Mobil four-star to a Mobil five-star establishment (the hotel itself is five-star).


The dining room exudes old-world elegance, and is one of the only places in the Springs that requires jackets for gentlemen (I didn't bring mine so I had to borrow one of theirs). There is also live music and dancing nightly.



The prix fix dinner and dessert selections are shown above. I had the seven-course Chef's Tasting Menu with wine pairing. Click for larger versions.


Two types of bread were offered: rye and roasted tomato. The butter was soft and spreadable with a subtle saltiness.


Abuse Bouche: Peekytoe Crab Salad on Rye
A nice little morsel to start the meal. My apologies for the photos; the restaurant had some difficult lighting which gave every picture a yellowish cast.


1: Roasted Salsify and Green Apple Soup - Port Reduction and Foie Gras
Yves Cuilleron, La Petite Cote, Condrieu, France
I'm not a fan out soup generally but I did enjoy this. It was very rich and creamy, with a strong, unique flavor to it.


2: Ahi Tuna Tartare with Passion Fruit and Celery Gelée - Radish, Nutmeg Cream and Herb Salad
Hirsch, Veltliner #1, Grüner Veltliner, Austria
One of the best tartares I've had in a while, a little tangy from the passion fruit, with the nice herb salad on top. The drier, herbal notes of the Grüner Veltliner paired well.


3: Sautéed Foie Gras with Parsnip Purée - Grapes, Pine Nuts and Watercress
Maximin Grunhauser, Riesling, Mosel-Saar Ruwer, Germany
One of the best pieces of foie I've ever had. I believe I'm starting to develop a bit of a taste for foie gras, at least when served hot. It went perfectly with the Riesling, which incidentally, I just had a week prior at Providence in LA. It loved it there and loved it even more here!


4: Slowly Cooked Halibut in Black Olive Oil - Mustard Greens, Thumbolina Carrots and Fingerling Potatoes
Chateau Rayas, Reserve, Chateauneuf-Du-Pape, France
This was quite good; I loved the mustard green tang and the crunchy, smoky potatoes. Apparently this is one of Chef Bouquin's signature dishes and I can see why.


5: Roasted Loin of Colorado Lamb with Dates and Cinnamon - Chickpea Purée, Broccoli Rabe and Piquillo Pepper
Simi, Landslide Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, California, USA
This was quite literally one of the best pieces of lamb I've ever had and went well with the Simi, which was pretty much exactly what I'd expect from an Alexander Valley Cab.


6: Market Cheeses
Taylor's, Quinta d'Vargellas, Portugal
Served with marmalade and pistachio, this was an excellent selection of cheese. Unfortunately I do not remember the names of any of them!


7: A Sampler of Penrose Room Desserts
Kracher, Beerenauslese Zwiegelt, Austria
I had a crème brulée, an apple tart, a sorbet, and something else than I can't recall. My favorite was the crème brulée, which had a great soft custard that contrasted sharply with the almost "graham cracker" base. Unfortunately I had already begun eating before I remembered to take a picture!


Frozen Pink Guava Bombe - Coconut Parfait and Spiced Pineapple Beignet
This dish was not part of the tasting menu but was added on by me. It had a delicate guava taste, though I wasn't a fan of beignets.

I am happy to report that the Penrose Room has improved dramatically since my last visit. My hat's off to Chef Bouqin and his crew; I can definitely see five stars in your future!

Charles Court (Colorado Springs, CO)

Charles Court
1 Lake Ave, Colorado Springs, CO 80906
719.577.5733
www.broadmoor.com/charles-court.php
Thu 03/08/2007, 06:35p-08:30p



Charles Court was the first restaurant I ever visited in Colorado Springs, nearly two years ago. I even remember what I had: escargot in cream sauce with puff pastry, buffalo filet, tasting of chocolate. But what's even crazier is that I think my server this last visit was the same I had on my first visit! She did say that I looked familiar...


The dinner and dessert menus, completely different from my first visit (which is a good thing). Click for larger versions.


I had three varieties of bread: grape and herb focaccia, French baguette, and cactus cornbread. The accompaniments were herbed butter, tomato & pepper salad, and caramelized tomato with onion.


Amuse Bouche: Roasted Parsnip Soup
I'm not a huge soup fan, but this was nice enough and a tasty way to start the meal. For all the following savory dishes, I ordered a half-bottle of Pinot Grigio, Santa Margherita, Valdadige 2005, which was actually quite full-bodied and kept its own with the strong flavors that followed. "This dry white wine is pale straw-yellow in color. The clean, intense aroma and dry flavour with pleasant golden apple aftertaste make Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio a wine of great character and versatility."


Caramelized Sea Scallops with Lemon Dill Risotto and Vermouth
These were firm, expertly-cooked scallops. The lemon and dill flavors complemented yet did not overwhelm the scallop taste, while the caviar provided a salty foil. The risotto was creamy and decadent.


Poached Hen's Egg with Smocked Duck 'Ham' and Frisee Lettuce
The duck really did taste like ham, could've fooled me! I also liked the poached egg, which had a great texture and yolk.


Jumbo Lump Crab with Avocado, Marinated Fennel and Arugula
A generous helping of pure crab meat, which was great alone and even better when eaten with the tomatoes, onion, and avocado.


Alaskan Black Cod in Kaffir Lime and Curry Mussel Chowder - Spinach and Goat Cheese Whipped Potatoes and Tomato Provencale
This actually reminded me of the miso-marinated cod at Nobu (not necessarily a bad thing). It was very creamy and tender, and I really liked the potatoes with green beans. I'm not a fan of cod in general, but I liked this.


Gewürztraminer and Chocolate Gelée - Tangerine Marmalade, Toasted Saffron Sabayon
Loved it! The chocolate was sweet and dense while gelée was subtle and light. The wine in the background is a glass of Iniskillin Vidal Ice Wine, Niagara Peninsula, Canada. It had a strong peach and honey aroma, along with a super long, lingering finish. "Sublime aromatics of fresh lime, apricot, grapefruit and peach blossoms with a slight mineral edge. A racy interplay of sweet and tart offer up echoing flavours of lemon, lime and candied apricot."


Petit Fours
Apricot gelée, brownie cookie, financier chocolate. All very nice and a great way to close out the meal.

A lot has changed in the Springs over the course of two years, but thankfully Charles Court continues to deliver. I had a great meal here on my first visit, and I'm glad to say that this last one was even better.

Walter's Bistro (Colorado Springs, CO)

Walter's Bistro
146 E Cheyenne Mountain Blvd, Colorado Springs, CO 80906
719.630.0201
www.waltersbistro.com
Wed 03/07/2007, 06:40p-08:10p



Walter's is definitely one of my favorite places in the Springs, and I make an effort to come in on a regular basis. In fact, I tried to go during my last visit to the Springs, but they were closed! Walter's is owned by Walter Iser, with Ryan Blanchard as executive chef. The duo also has a new venture in the north part of town, which I've visited before: Plate.


Walter's consists of four main rooms: the back room where I was sitting, the bar area which can be seen above, and two dining rooms to either side of the bar. The kitchen was immediately to my right.



The dinner (signed by chef Blanchard and Walter), dessert, and after dinner drink menus. One thing that I do appreciate about Walter's is that the menu is different every time I visit. Click for larger versions.


The bread is the ciabatta type and is served warm. The accoutrements consisted of roasted red pepper butter (my favorite), olive salad, and unsalted butter.


Open Faced Duck Confit Ravioli - With spinach and Boursin cheese
I wasn't quite sure what an "open faced" ravioli would be like, but I really enjoyed this dish. The sauce was very creamy and cheesy, and went well with the duck and spinach. I had this with a St. Christopher Piesporter Goldtropfchen Reisling, Mosel, 2005; the wine was light, fruity, sweet, and easy drinking. Loved it!


Shrimp, Scallops, and Lobster Curry - Steamed in a banana leaf with sake
This wasn't quite what I expected from a "curry." In fact I'm not sure I've seen anything quite like it, with the shrimp, scallop, and lobster formed into a brick (with very little filler). The flavors were very subtle and a bit muddled; I had a hard time picking up the individual components.


Bone-In NY Strip Steak - Yukon potatoes and béarnaise
Came with demi-glace and Béarnaise dipping sauces. The steak was quite flavorful, but had a bit too much fat and tendon for my liking. Another reminder of why I usually much prefer filets. The asparagus and mashed potatoes were nice accompaniments. The wine I had with this was a Penfolds Koonunga Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia, 2002, which I thought was very full-bodied and almost overpowered the steak.


Strawberry Mousse - Fudge cake base, strawberry glaze
The mousse was light, airy, with a subtle strawberry taste. The hard fudge cake base was a nice contrast to the smoothness of the mousse. Yum! I had the King Estate Ice Wine, Oregon, 2004 with this. It had apricot and peach on the nose, honey on the palate, and silk on the finish. Delish!

This must have been my fourth visit to Walter's, but unfortunately it was also the most disappointing, mainly due to the curry and the steak. However, the number of great experiences I've had here will definitely keep me coming back in the future!

Blue Vervain (Manitou Springs, CO)

Blue Vervain
56 Park Ave, Manitou Springs, CO 80829
719.685.2400
www.bluevervain.com
Tue 03/06/2007, 06:10p-08:30p



I was initially introduced to Blue Vervain by a coworker, and the restaurant has quickly become one of my favorites in Colorado Springs (well, Manitou Springs actually, but close enough). Blue Vervain first opened in 2002 in the Black Hills of South Dakota, but moved to Manitou in 2005. Officially, the restaurant is described as French-Italian, with touches of Asia and the Southwest.



The decor is rustic and cozy, with about ten tables. There is also live piano music on certain nights. Much of the artwork on the walls is by local artists and is for sale.


The menu is short but sweet. The dishes change relatively often, though some do stay on the menu longer than others. For example, I had the Steak with Chimichurri (one of the best filets I've ever had incidentally) on my first visit over two years ago. Note the signature of executive chef Rebecca Christensen; I also requested the signature of the pastry chef Elizabeth Christensen (they're sisters), who wasn't present at the time. Click for larger versions.


Bread was quite good, as was the lightly salted butter.


Russian Egg Wraps - Boiled egg wedges with Russian dressing on Boston Bibb lettuce
The eggs were nicely done and went surprisingly well with the tart, tangy Russian dressing. This dish was paired with a Pinot Grigio, di Lenardo - Fruili Doc Grave, Italy, 2004. I found it to have a somewhat bolder, fuller taste than most other Pinot Grigios I've had. "Straw yellow, elegant and refined on the nose with complex fruit aromas."


Wasabi Beef Carpaccio - Thin slices of cured and seared beef tenderloin with cucumber salad, sushi rice, and wasabi mayo, served with soy sauce or peanut sauce
Really liked the beef here, which was part seared and part raw, which gave it some nice complexity and texture. The wasabi mayo complemented the beef nicely. The sushi rice didn't have much flavor on its own but actually went quite well with the soy and peanut dipping sauces. I had this with a Pinot Noir, Cartlidge & Brown, California, 2005, which I found subtle and easy-drinking. "Classic characteristics of sweet and sour cherries, a hint of forest floor, and a medium-bodied, soft, easy to understand, fragrant personality."


Herbed Chicken Piccata - Sautéed chicken breast in white wine herb and caper sauce with seasonal vegetables and roasted Yukon gold and blue potatoes
This was a dish ordered by a dining companion so I did not get to sample it unfortunately. However, she did say that it was the most tender chicken she's ever eaten.


Scallops with Bacon and Lemon - Pan-seared scallops with bacon, lemon, butter and parsley, and seasonal vegetables
The scallops were large and expertly cooked. Lots of bacon gave the dish a saltiness which went well with the milder flavor of the scallops. The veggies were a nice addition. The wine here was a Shiraz, Rosemount Diamond, Australia, 2004. The server paired it instead of a white wine because of the strong bacon component. "A medium to full bodied wine with generous ripe fruit flavors of blackberry, plum and cassis. Spice and cedar flavors develop with time in the glass."


Brownie Cake
I believe we ended up ordering every dessert on the menu. First up, this cake was served with vanilla ice cream and indeed tasted very much like a brownie.


Pomegranate Sorbet
This didn't quite taste like pomegranate to me, but was a favorite among several members of my party.


Beet Cake
This was the first dessert I had at Blue Vervain, and still the most memorable. The ice cream had a slight beet-y taste but the point was to eat it with the chocolate cake, which proved to be a sublime pairing.


Traditional Tiramisu
A competently-crafted tiramisu, but got lost will all of the other flavors.


Crème Brulèe
Finally we have the crème brulèe, one of my old standbys. This one was nicely done, with a nice, hard caramelized top and a cool custard base. The wine in the background is a Grahams 20 Year Port, which exhibited typical spicy, raisin notes but was somewhat lighter-bodied than most Ports I've had.



I've been to Blue Vervain a number of times during my travels to the Springs and once again, the Christensens did not disappoint, making the drive up to Manitou well worth it.

Providence (Los Angeles, CA)

Providence
5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.460.4170
www.providencela.com
Sat 03/03/2007, 06:20p-10:00p



Providence's executive chef Michael Cimarusti hails from the famed Water Grill restaurant in Downtown LA. I enjoyed Water Grill so I was looking forward to experiencing what he could do given his own restaurant. Providence occupies the space left vacant by Patina, which incidentally moved Downtown. The space has remained pretty much the same, though the menu now is tightly focused on seafood (not a bad thing!). The restaurant is small, with two main dining rooms and a bar area. The space is dimly lit and chicly decorated, with fashionably dressed servers gliding effortlessly back and forth between tables.


We went for the 9-course Market Menu, with included wine pairings. Note the signatures of Cimarusti and pastry chef Adrian Vasquez (replete with chocolate thumb print). There is also a Chef's Menu that will run about $150pp; we'll definitely try that on our next visit. Click for a larger version of the menu.


I was a bit let down that there was only one type of bread offered, though the butter and salt (first time I've seen such a thing!) were very good.


amuse bouche
We started with dungeness crab with lemon jelly and parsnip flake, along with a carrot soup with curry foam. The crab was a tasty little morsel, but the soup was more interesting, with a nice contrast between the texture, temperature, and flavor of the soup and the foam (the foam actually was very reminiscent of an Indian curry).


1: kanpachi / white soy, cucumber, shiso leaf, yuzu lime
vinho verde, neblina 2006
Kanpachi is amberjack, and this was a nice cut of it. However, I felt that the fish could've gone with fewer accoutrements. For example I would've liked it to be a bit less tart (possibly due to the yuzu). I quite liked the paired Vihno Verde, which had slightly mineraly tang with a nice effervescent feel; refreshing.


2: maine lobster / yellow beets, american caviar, tarragon
riesling-kabinett, maximin grunhauser 2005
I loved the lobster itself and how it went with the salty zing of the caviar, but the beets seemed to be an odd pairing for me. Also, I really liked the Riesling here: sweet, fruity nose, yet dry, with a crisp taste and finish. In fact I may pick up a few bottles myself sometime...


3: nancy's hand harvested diver scallops / heart of palm puree, applewood smoked bacon, pistachios, star anise gastrique
soave, pra 2004
I had heard good things about Nancy's scallops and boy they did not disappoint. I know bacon is an obvious foil to scallop, but everything really came together well here. One of my favorites of the night. I don't know who Nancy is, but my hat's off to her!


4: new zealand john dory / flowering broccoli, carrot/vadouvan butter, weiser farms purple haze carrots
chambolle musigny, regnard 1998
I believe this was my first time having John Dory, and I found the fish to lack any distinctive qualities. It was tasty but I don't know if I could tell it apart from other fish in a blind tasting (unlike with salmon, halibut, turbot, sea bass, etc.). I believe the oblong green object was a purée of broccolini, I wasn't a huge fan of its taste, along with the carrot.


5: crispy veal sweetbreads / petit pois, chanterelle, braised artichokes, black truffle
roussanne, zaca mesa 2004
One of the standout dishes for me. Sweetbread is either pancreas or thymus gland; that may not sound appetizing but I've enjoyed sweetbreads on every occasion I've had them. I not only loved the sweetbreads themselves, but also the chanterelles, the truffles, and everything in between. Good wine pairing too.


6: king salmon (british columbia) / butternut squash, shimeji mushrooms, black truffle essence
nebbiolo, martin & weyrich 2002
The quintessential expression of salmon. I liked the flavor of the fish though texture-wise I would've preferred something firmer. The "chip" in the squash was actually made of salmon skin and quite delicious.


7: market cheeses
montefalco rosso, arnaldo caprai 2003
From right to left (the order in which we were advised to eat the cheeses), we have a Grenache sheep's milk cheese from Spain, a goat's milk cheese from England, and truffle cow's milk cheese from France. The cheese was served with olive marmalade, candied walnuts, fig, and cinnamon toast.


8: kyoho grape soda / ginger & lemon grass
When the glasses were first brought to the table, they had a dollop of ice cream in the middle. Our server then proceeded to fill the glasses with a delicious grape soda from a pressurized canister. Très cool!


9: white chocolate / mediterranean flavors
muscat, terre rouge 2004
The "mediterranean flavors" included olives, yogurt, saffron sauce, mint syrup, and white chocolate crisps. I quite liked the chocolate and the tanginess of the yogurt, though I felt some of the other flavors were definitely above me. Also I rather enjoyed the accompanying Muscat.


petit fours
Going from right to left, we have raspberry macaroons, truffles, and marzipan praline balls; my favorite was the marzipan. A nice way to end the meal!


My dining companion decided to order coffee, which I'm told was very good. I love the container for the cream though (and I believe they were actually for sale at the restaurant).


A little tipsy perhaps after eight glasses of wine...