Go's Mart (Canoga Park, CA)

Go's Mart
22330 Sherman Way, Canoga Park, CA 91303
818.704.1459
www.yelp.com/biz/N2VCvPki-JN7d5fWxMmXKg (reviews, restaurant has no website)
Sun 05/13/2007, 04:40p-07:30p



LA is definitely a sushi town. When asked, people are often quick to list their favorites, Mori Sushi, Sushi Zo, Sushi Gen, Sasabune, Nozawa, Katsuya, Kiriko, Echigo, and of course, Urasawa. But rarely have I heard anyone mentioned Go's Mart (yes, it's a rather odd name for a sushi joint). In fact, it was almost by accident that I stumbled across the place on one of my visits to the Chowhound message boards. My curiosity piqued, I did a bit more research on Google, found a few photo sets, and decided that this was a place I wanted to try. Canoga is a bit of a drive from behind the Orange Curtain, so we decided to stop by coming back from our French Laundry/Cyrus culinary road trip.


Go's Mart is situated in a nondescript strip mall, nestled in between a hydroponics supply shop and a tanning salon. Upon entering, the first thing you see is a rack full of VHS cassettes and a row of refrigeration units.



Walk in and you are greeted with rather underwhelming decor, awash in a sickly shade of orange. There are four tables, which I imagine are almost never used, and the bar, which seats about ten. In the little enclosed alcove by the entrance, Go-san's son sits playing computer games. If the decor is this bad, the food must be good, right?


Go-san's wife handles all the monetary transactions from a counter out front.


Go's Mart also serves take-out sushi. Here we see Nino preparing some rolls for two ladies in the photo on the right.



Remember the rack of videos by the door? Go's Mart also functions as a video rental store, and we saw customers borrowing and returning cassettes during our meal. The selection is eclectic, though mostly Japanese.


A modest selection of beverages is available.



Most of the items we had came from this large fish case. There is also a smaller case by the bar, though I don't recall seeing any of our food coming from there.


Our whole time there, Go-San never left his space behind the bar. He is assisted by Nino and Oscar, who handle much of the prep work as well as some of the to-go orders.


The table setting is nothing special. We were given a blob of imitation wasabi, which I didn't touch, and some ginger, which was quite good. The odd-looking glass holds Sapporo. The "No Whining" bauble gave me a chuckle.



One can order the standard sushi types using the yellow sheet, but it is much more fun to go omakase and let Go-san decide what to eat, as in the second photo. Many of the omakase dishes come from the specials board. Note the humorously-named "Stupid Roll," which is salmon skin with spicy shrimp. Apparently, fugu is also a special during the winter months. We definitely want to return when it's in season. Click for larger versions.


1: Chinese Broccoli
Topped with katsuobushi, otherwise known as dried, fermented, and smoked bonito, or katsuo. The broccoli had a strong bitter taste which did well to cleanse the palate. Adding soy sauce tempered the bitterness.


2: Ankimo
Monkfish liver topped with sweet plum sauce, scallion, daikon, gold flake, and goji berry. The ankimo was somewhat firmer than usual, which I appreciated. I'm not normally a fan of ankimo, but this was excellent, easily the best I've ever had.


3: Ishi Karei Sashimi
Japanese flounder sashimi with cherry tomato, lemon, rock salt, and truffle oil. Fantastic, with a spicy kick at the end that lingers on and on (though I'm not sure where the spice comes from exactly). This reminds me a lot of the New Style Sashimi at Matsuhisa/Nobu or the Halibut Carpaccio at Abe/Bluefin.


4: Shirako
Shirako means "white children" in Japanese and refers to the milt, or male genetalia, of a fish, in this case snapper. I had heard of this dish before, but this was my first time having it. Overall it was pretty mild with a hint of fishiness, not offensive at all. My dining companions were unaware of what this was, so I told them to eat it before I told them!



5: Grilled Shrimp
This was one of the most visually impressive and decadent dishes I've seen in a while. What we have is by far the largest live sweet shrimp I've ever laid eyes on, full of roe, and topped with uni. This was definitely a "hands-on" dish, as Go-san passed out wet naps with it. I was a bit intimidated at first, but ended up ripping the shrimp apart, making sure to suck out all the meat in the head. On the side, we have delectable kani and uni "sandwiches," topped with caviar and gold flake. The king crab legs had a subtle sweetness that went perfectly with the uni's mild creaminess. Amazing!


6: Toro Collar
Bluefin toro collar with daikon, gold flake, caviar, and chive cross. The fish was soft, creamy, rich, heavy, and oily. I still prefer toro done raw, but this was very nice.


7: Sakura Ebi Tempura
This was my first experience with sakura ebi, small shrimp from Suruga Bay in Shizuoka Prefecture. They were served with green tea salt, and tempura shishito pepper and okra. They had a nice crispy texture and I detected an almost Latin flavor to them.




8: Hirame / Kue / Tai / Escolar
Our first sushi course is a quartet of whitefish, all served with shiso, rock salt, and freshly grated wasabi. Clock wise from left, we first have "kelp" halibut; that's what Go-san called it but I couldn't find any confirmation on the name from Google. Next is kue, which I hadn't had before; the English translation I found is kelp bass or kelp grouper (perhaps the fact both fishes have "kelp" in the name is a point of confusion). Next up is snapper, and finally we have escolar (I don't know it's Japanese name), which apparently is often incorrectly called "butterfish" or "white tuna." All the pieces were very tasty and similar in nature, though the halibut and kue were a bit firmer than the other two.



9: Awabi / Hotate & Uni
The abalone was recommended by another customer at the bar, and was fantastic. It had a firm, yet soft crunch and a subtle taste. Easily the best abalone I've ever had. Next we have live scallop topped with uni and rock salt. The scallop tasted very fresh and had an excellent texture. The contrast between the firmness of scallop and creaminess of the uni was superb!



10: Kohada / Sayori / Seki Aji
Going left to right, to we start with the gizzard shad topped with ginger, which had a citrus tang and a mackerel-like fishiness to it. Next is the needlefish, with shiso and fresh wasabi. This was only my second time having the fish; the first was at Urasawa (the Urasawa version was about the prettiest piece of sushi I've ever had). I found it to be slick and very mild. Finally we have a special type of Spanish mackerel, topped with scallion, ginger, and goji berry. Seki aji is caught using single hook fishing from the Bungo Strait. It is widely regarded as the best type of Spanish mackerel, with a very mild taste compared to standard varieties. Loved it.


11: Blue Crab Hand Roll
The crab was nicely chilled, with a mild sweetness and great crab flavor. Really tasty. This reminded me a lot of the blue crab roll and Sushi Wasabi, though with less mayo. I could eat this all day. An interesting note: I believe this was the only dish not made personally by Go-san; instead it was made by Nino.



12: "Holy Cow"
Wagyu beef sushi with fresh wasabi, onion, truffle oil, and rock salt. As can be seen in the first photo, this was lightly seared with a blowtorch to bring out the flavor. It is easy to be let down by "Kobe" beef but this did not disappoint. Rich, soft, oily, you can still see the marbling!


13: Toro
With daikon, gold flake, and soy sauce. Some of the fattiest toro I've had in a while, this was super soft and almost turned to a liquid in my mouth. As one of my dining companions exclaimed: "you don't even have to chew!"


14: Matoudai
This was actually John Dory, garnished with shiso, rock salt, truffle oil, and fresh wasabi. I found it similar to the other whitefish. This was my first time having it, but hopefully not my last!


15: Orange, Strawberry, and Raspberry
Drenched in condensed milk. I remember that the fruit was extremely sweet, though I'm sure that's due in part to the condensed milk. Very refreshing, and a nice way to end the meal.


Gift
Given by Go-san's wife after we paid. It was supposed to be a gift for our mothers since it was Mother's Day.

Go did not disappoint. Many of the dishes were Urasawa-level, and indeed, I've never seen anyone use gold flake so liberally, not even Urasawa-san! One interesting thing to note is that Go-san seems to go out of his way not to be found. He told us he doesn't advertise at all and was surprised that we were able to find the place on the Internet. This is definitely a place for "regulars." In fact, I'm almost hesitant to post this blog, so I can keep this place all to myself! I guess it's true what they say, don't judge a book by its cover.

French Laundry (Yountville, CA)

French Laundry
6640 Washington St, Yountville, CA 94599
707.944.2380
www.frenchlaundry.com
Sat 05/12/2007, 07:35p-12:40a



French Laundry is a bit like Mecca for foodies, one that has been proclaimed the "Best Restaurant in the World" by Restaurant magazine, though currently it is merely the "Best Restaurant in the Americas." As such, it had been on our "to-eat" list for several years and we were ready to make a trip up to Northern California just to dine there. Unfortunately, the restaurant is also one of the hardest tables to get in the country, and is booked up a full two months prior. So how did I manage to get reservations? Well I was in the area for Cakebread U and visited the restaurant at its 10:00am opening time, only to be told that they were no longer accepting reservations in person. Disheartened, I ran into a man walking his dog. We chatted for about 45 minutes in French Laundry's garden while I was frantically redialing the restaurant's number on my cell phone (without getting through even once!). It turns out the man was Thomas Keller's father, Ed (as an aside, unfortunately we were informed during dinner that Ed was involved in a rather serious car accident and was in the hospital, we certainly wish him a speedy recovery!). After I ceased my futile efforts to get through, he kindly went inside and spoke with the reservationist, then told me to expect a call in the afternoon. I returned to my bed & breakfast and waited patiently. Then the call came, asking me if a table for four at 7:45 on May 12 was acceptable. Acceptable? "That was fantastic!" I told the reservationist. With that, I spent two anxious months waiting for the fateful day in May to arrive, and the rest, they say, is history...


French Laundry's exterior is rustic to say the least. Passing by, one could easily miss it and never assume that an world-class restaurant lies within. As a bit of history, the building was constructed in the 1900s as a saloon and was indeed a French laundromat in the 1920s. In the 1980s, the building was already a well-regarded restaurant, before Keller bought it in 1994 and brought to it international renown.


Pictured above is the waiting area by the main entrance. Unfortunately, we were seated in a bit of an alcove so I didn't get any good photos of the dining room. Overall, the decor is relatively simple, going along with the restaurant's unpretentious wine country charm.


Here we see French Laundry's signature clothespin initially attached to a napkin. We were able to take them home at the end of the night.


Two menus are available each night: the Chef's Tasting Menu and a Tasting of Vegetables, both identically priced. The menu is signed by Chef de Cuisine Corey Lee. Keller was not in that night, but in New York for the James Beard Awards. Click for larger versions. We requested the "extended" menu, which unfortunately was "only" 12 courses that night. I have heard that extended meals can be in the range of 16 to 20 courses. Though considering how full we were at the end of the meal, perhaps it was a good thing we only had four additional courses. We also requested the Wagyu beef supplement that was announced at the beginning of the meal. The restaurant is supposed to send me a copy of the menu with the extended courses listed, which I have yet to receive.


The most expensive Diet Coke ever. Or so we thought. It was listed on the menu at $10 but the charge for two glasses didn't appear on our bill. I guess they figure they can spare 50 cents for a couple cans in the course of a four-figure meal!

We also ordered a bottle of Fritz Haag, Riesling, "Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr," Mosel, 2003 for the lighter courses, which, unfortunately, wasn't complementary like the Coke. The wine was a spätlese, with a sweet nose of apple cider and a taste of general sweetness, and was effervescent and easy drinking.


The bread in the left picture is French Laundry's signature bread from Bouchon Bakery down the street. The bakery also supplies bread for Bouchon and Ad Hoc. Later on in the meal we were offered ciabatta (shown), sourdough, French, and pretzel varieties. The breads were served with salted butter from Vermont and a local unsalted butter from Petaluma.


Canapé 1: Gougères
These savory puffs were made with Gruyère cheese and a sauce Mornay. One of my dining companions commented that it was reminiscent in taste of a Cheez-It.


Canapé 2: Scottish Salmon Coronets
Without a doubt, the signature amuse of French Laundry. The salmon was complemented with chives and a red onion crème fraîche. The cone itself had a creamy, buttery, sesame flavor and broke apart easily. The dish reminded us of the salmon cones at Spago (apparently, Puck's salmon cones predate Keller's). Excellent.


Canapé 3: Roasted Sunchoke Soup
This soup canapé was an addition from the extended menu. We were first presented with a mixture of red bell pepper and orange in the bowl; roasted sunchoke soup with olive oil was then poured on top by our servers. There was a nice contrast between the rich, chowder-like soup and the cold tang of the pepper and orange.


1: "Oysters and Pearls"
"Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Beau Soleil Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar. The briny, salty caviar provided a perfect foil to the tapioca's subtle creaminess. The oysters, from La Maison BeauSoleil in Canada, were cooked but still had a great texture. We were told that the oysters were small because they were trimmed, with the trimmings going into the sabayon. This is perhaps Chef Keller's most famous dish, and I can certainly see why.


2: White Truffle Infused Custard
The white truffle custard base was relatively mild compared to the ragout of black truffle on top. The tab sticking out of the egg is a chive chip, which I used to mix and scoop up the custard. The mixture almost had an "Asian" taste that I couldn't quite put my finger on. This dish was part of the extended menu.


3a: Yukon Gold Potato "Mille-Feuille"
Sugar Snap Peas, Red Radish, Pea Shoots and "Béarnaise Syrup." I absolutely loved the crunch of the raw radish and the snap of the peas. A mille-feuille is traditionally a pastry made of layers of puff pastry and sweet filling. But in this application, the term describes layers of potato stacked atop each other. The flavor can be likened to a French fry.


3b: Moulard Duck "Foie Gras Terrine"
Tokyo Turnips, Pickled Ramps, Black Truffles, Garden Mâche and Toasted Brioche. This was served with three salts: a French sea salt, a Japanese salt, and a mined salt from Montana. However, the foie was so flavorful that salt wasn't necessary. This was easily the best terrine I've tried, and perhaps the best preparation of foie gras I've ever had. Simply superb. I will note that once our server saw us sharing, he brought each of us extra brioche.


4a: Sautéed Fillet of American Red Snapper
"Capellini à l'Encre de Seiche," Chorizo, Sea Beans and "Huile de Piment d'Espelette." The fish was very tender and not quite what I expected from snapper. The taste reminded me of a steamed Asian-style fish with it's very light and delicate flavors. Below the snapper was squid ink pasta, as shown in the second photo.


4b: "Salade Niçoise"
Spanish Bluefin Tuna "Tartare," Fava Beans, Baby Artichokes, Niçoise Olives, San Marzano Tomato "Compote," Hard-Boiled Egg Sorbet and "Bottarga Vinaigrette. The tuna was good on its own but excellent when eaten with the egg sorbet. Loved the texture of the fava beans as well. I thoroughly enjoyed this dish; however, it didn't go over well with my dining companions.


5: Sweet Butter-Poached Maine Lobster Tail
Belgian Endive, Jacobsen's Farm Green Almonds, Parsley-Shoots and Passionfruit Butter. Great texture with a notable sweetness to it; very buttery and creamy. I wasn't a fan of the endive though. This was a favorite of the night.


We decanted the 1982 Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse De Lalande that we brought for a couple of hours before bringing it out for the heartier dishes of the night. We chose the wine mainly for two reasons: it is a Robert Parker 100-point "perfect" wine, and 1982 was the year of our birth (and also a banner year in Bordeaux). The wine had an intoxicating nose of tobacco, ripe fruit, and cassis; I also detected notable hints of tobacco and spices on the palate. It had a meaty, chewy mouthfeel and a long, lingering finish. To quote Mr. Parker:

"I have had this wine a half-dozen times over the last eleven months, and have rated it either 98, 99, or 100 on every occasion. It is a fully mature, sumptuous, gloriously perfumed, luxuriously rich Pauillac the likes of which are rarely encountered. The color is a dark plum/ruby with amber at the edge. Spectacular aromatics offer up cedar, smoke, jammy black and red fruits, minerals, licorice, and toast. Unctuously-textured and full-bodied, with low acidity, fabulously sweet, rich fruit, surprising definition for a wine of such lushness and intensity, this is one of the vintage's most compelling and profound efforts. It has been delicious since birth, but absolutely stupendous over the last decade."

I do no hesitate to say that this was one of the top red wines I've ever tasted. We asked to keep the bottle, which was cleaned out and nicely presented in the signature French Laundry livery. Corkage was a hefty $50.


6: Russet Potato Gnocchi
The black flecks on top are shaved black truffle. Our server brought out the truffle from a nice presentation box and proceeded to shave it at the table. According to him, these truffles were purchased in February. In any case, they provided a nice, rich pungent flavor to the gnocchi. I wasn't a huge fan of truffle the first time I had it, but I think I'm beginning to really like it! I suppose it's a bit of an acquired taste. This course was also part of the extended tasting.


7a: Wild Flower Honey-Glazed Pork Belly
"Choucroute," Granny Smith Apple, and Dijon Mustard. The dish also included cabbage from French Laundry's garden across the street. The pork was sourced from Pennsylvania and was very fatty, very flavorful. Also, according to our server, the apple on top was compressed, sealed in a vacuum bag, and cooked sous vide. Sous vide is a controversial way of cooking that maintains the integrity of the food by heating it at low temperatures for long periods.


7b: Crispy Marcho Farm's Calve's Brain
Wild Asparagus, "Pain Perdu," Cornichon and Dungeness Crab Mayonnaise. Yes my first time with brain! The brain, from the same source in Pennsylvania as the pork, was crusted with buttermilk and panko and had a very creamy consistency. It was not tough at all like I expected. Overall quite mild and not offensive. The asparagus was from France and quite interesting, not like any I've had before.


8a: Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Ribeye
Cèpe Mushrooms, Spring Garlic, Sweet Carrots and "Sauce Bordelaise." A very pure expression of lamb, rare, firm yet tender, and exceedingly flavorful. I quite enjoyed this dish, but many of dining companions thought it was a bit too strong, a bit too gamy for their tastes.


8b: Wagyu Beef Sous Vide
Very rich, this almost turned to liquid in my mouth. One of the most decadent pieces of beef I've ever had, look at that marbling! The fat remained intact thanks in part to the beef's sous vide preparation. Do to its low-temperature, vacuum-sealed methods, sous vide must be performed under carefully controlled conditions, as to avoid botulism poisoning. The beef was also served with hen of the wood tempura, brocollini, and kumquat.


9: "Vermont Dandy"
Granola, Red Currants and Celery Branch. This was a natural rind, semi-hard, aged sheep's milk cheese from Peaked Mountain Farm in Vermont. Overall very mild and easy-eating. I liked the pairing of the granola and the currant, but could've done without the celery. It was served with toasted walnut and raisin breads


10: Manila Mango Sorbet
Black Sesame Tuile, "Goma Nougatine," Papaya and Coconut Sauce. Strong, authentic tastes of mango. Very reinvigorating and a nice segue into the desserts.



11: "Coffee and Doughnuts"
The last extended item and perhaps Keller's most famous dessert, this was a miniature fried cinnamon doughnut with a small demitasse of delightful espresso ice cream semifreddo. The trick is to eat the doughnut with the ice cream. Excellent.


12a: Bitter Valrhona Chocolate "Sponge"
Gros Michel Banana Ice Cream and Pili Nut "Bavarois." Loved the presentation here. The "Bavarois" is French for "Bavarian cream," or a flavored custard combined with gelatin and whipped cream. I'm not a huge fan of bananas, but enjoyed the ice cream.


12b: "Granité Aux Agrumes"
Cream Yogurt "Panna Cotta," Citrus "Confit" and Shiso Syrup. The key here was to take in all the layers at once. The shiso syrup was brought out in a large volumetric flask-type container and drizzled onto the granité with a large dropper.


The dessert wine on the left is the Velha Barbeito, Bual, Madeira, 1863. Madeira is known for its longevity, and this was clearly the oldest wine I've ever had. Interestingly enough, the Bual's color was rather light bronze-red in color (much lighter than in the photo), which belied its vintage. However, its taste definitely gave away its age, with a smokey, woody nose and musty flavors of soil and smoke on the palate. It was unlike any wine I've ever had. The second wine is a Alvear Solera Pedro Jimenez Montilla-Moriles, Spain, 1927. This was the second oldest wine I've ever tasted, and was much sweeter, with heavy doses of raisin and a hint of chocolate.


Mignardises 1
The first of the post-dessert courses was a pot de crème made with Meyer lemon; it was a bit tart for me. We then had a simply prepared miniature Tahitian vanilla crème brûlée, which had a nicely caramelized top and classic crème brûlée taste.


Mignardises 2
Next up were honey flour tuiles with Bergamot (Bergamot orange is a small, sour citrus from Italy) and macadamias coated in caramel and chocolate. The nuts were superb, with a nice crunch and texture, and tasted like caramel corn; we finished the entire pot, even though we were already sufficiently stuffed by the time they came out.


Mignardises 3
Our server Milton then brought out a tray of chocolates: raspberry with black pepper, banana, cofee, hazelnut, peanut butter, and caramel. I just had to grab one of each, though unfortunately I was so full that I could only manage partial bites. We then had a sliding metal box (which must have weighed close to 10 pounds!) filled with nougats, salted caramels, and various truffles. Unfortunately they were left largely uneaten (though some were taken home), as we could take no more food by this point!


Gift
These were shortbread cookies, apparently from a recipe by the pasty chef, Claire Clark's, mother. Very rich and buttery. Really nice. Note the application of the signature clothespin motif.



After our meal, we were invited into the kitchen. Chef Lee was busy talking to the various chefs so we didn't get too much time to chat. The man in the upper right photo is maitre d' Larry Nadeau, who did a great job accommodating us throughout the evening.


Chef Lee talks daily with Per Se via the video conferencing system pictured above. The idea is that this collaboration helps create a free flow of ideas between the two kitchens. Speaking of Per Se, we definitely plan on going next time we're in New York.

Michelin defines a 3-star restaurant as being "worth a trip." To that effect, I completely agree. We drove 450 miles for the privilege of dining here and I do not regret it one bit. Best restaurant in the country? I can believe it. My only disquiet concerns Keller's decreasing involvement in French Laundry's daily operations. Control of the kitchen has been, for a large part, handed over to Lee (who, to be fair, has proven himself eminently capable), as Keller has become more restaurateur than chef. Keller has stated that he would like French Laundry to outlive him, to become a gastronomic icon of sorts, irrespective of the chef in charge. After all, does one know or even care about the chef at La Tour d'Argent? Indeed. As to whether the restaurant will continue to thrive without him, only time will tell...

Cyrus (Healdsburg, CA)

Cyrus
29 North St, Healdsburg, CA 95448
707.433.3311
www.cyrusrestaurant.com
Fri 05/11/2007, 06:40p-10:40p



A relatively new restaurant, Cyrus has quickly garnered accolades and made a big splash on the wine country dining scene, scoring two Michelin stars in the guide's first rating of Bay Area eateries. Located in remote Healdsburg in Sonoma Valley, Cyrus has become the premier dining spot in the valley. It's only real competition in the area is none other than the famed French Laundry across the hills (where, incidentally, we would be dining the next evening).



We actually had some difficulty finding the restaurant, as, in a rare lapse, Google Maps provided incorrect directions (turn left on North Street, not right!). Cyrus is located in the Les Mars hotel.



The decor is warm and inviting, with good table spacing. Noise was not an issue. One thing we did notice was that the restaurant definitely attracts an older crowd. The bottom photo shows the Champagne and caviar cart brought at the beginning of the meal. We wanted to start with some beluga caviar, which the restaurant did not have unfortunately.


Customized place settings are a nice touch. The centerpiece reminded us of a miniature pineapple. An overhead light over the center of the table provided sufficient illumination for my photos.



Diners usually choose from three-, four-, or five- course meals. Naturally, we had to go for the seven-course Chef's Tasting Menu, with corresponding wine pairings. That menu is shown below, signed by Executive Chef Douglas Keane and Maitre d' Nick Peyton, both of whom hail from San Francisco's vaunted Gary Danko restaurant. Click for larger versions.


To kick things off we had a rhubarb and edelflower Champagne cocktail to start. Edelflower is small white flower commonly found in Alpine areas; the drink had a strong taste of ginger and did well to cleanse the palate.

We also requested three cocktails to go with our supplemental lobster course. We left it up to bartender Scott Beattie, who is well known for his groundbreaking cocktail program. First up was the classic mojito, a favorite drink of mine. This version was noticeably more complex that previous examples I'd had, relying on a more intricate interplay of rum, mint, sugar, and lime than a simple overriding sweetness. Next was the Frond Song, made with Sarticious Gin, Lemon Juice, Anise Hyssop, Herbsaint, Green Chartreuse, Fennel Fronds, Borage and Dianthus Flowers, and Seltzer. This was clearly the most adventurous and intense of the trio, with strong astringent grassy and herbal tones. Finally, we had the Rhubarbarella, crafted from Hangar One Buddha's Hand Citron Vodka, Shiso, Preserved Rhubarb, Lemon Juice, Ginger, and Galangal. This was perhaps the most accessible, with a taste not unlike rhubarb lemonade. Note the lovely metal straws.


Served with two butters, as well as brown and white salts. The bread itself was quite good, and I ended up filling up on it, much to my detriment later on in the meal. Unfortunately only one type of bread was offered.


Canapés
We have an Asparagus Tartare with Pickled Radish (the asparagus taste was tempered by the radish I believe), a Fava Bean Falafel with Harissa, and a Yamaimo Frittata with Pickled Mango Coulis (yamaimo is a type of yam, the bite was akin to a curried Tater Tot).


Amuse Bouche
The amuse was a spoon of bigeye tuna, pickled ramps, and crème fraîche. This had a strong curry component to it. I wish I could've gotten a larger serving so I could've examined the flavors a bit more.


Supplement: Thai Marinated Lobster
With Avocado, Mango and Fresh Hearts of Palm. The lobster was exceedingly fresh in texture, with a subtle sweetness and even more inconspicuous notes of spice and herbs. The dark green component on top was a mixture of mint, cilantro, and basil. The lobster itself was marinated in Thai fish sauce, honey, shallots, and garlic. The result is phenomenal. This is Chef Keane's signature dish and I can certainly see why.



1: "Steak & Eggs"
Champagne Agrapart, "Grand Cru - Cuvée Terroirs," Avize, France
Wagyu Steak and Lobster Tartare with Horseradish Crème Fraiche and Caviar. Served with hackleback caviar, the tartare was placed in a piece of bone marrow, and had a slightly bitter disposition, probably due to the caviar. On the right is a quail egg topped with Wagyu sashimi and rock salt; when I pressed on the egg with my fork, it exploded, sending a stream of yellow yolk over the tablecloth. In between are three small, oily medallions of marrow. The Champagne was a blanc de blancs, with strong fruit and apple on the nose. The taste, however, was dry and mineral-y, possibly due to the wine's terroir of limestone and chalk.


2: Chorizo Crusted Scallop
Manzanilla Sherry "La Guita", Jerez, Spain
With Mirepoix and Manila Clams. Mirepoix is a combination of onions, carrots, and celery used as a base for a soup. The chorizo reminded me of bacon, but was a touch too salty. The "soup" was a consommé containing chorizo, mussel, clam, and sauvignon blanc. I'm not a huge fan of Sherry, but the one paired here was palatable. It had a strong apple fragrance, and was surprisingly smooth for Sherry. However we found that it didn't open up, even when tasted with food.



3: Rabbit Loin
Volnay, Domaine de Montille, "1er Cru," France, 2004
With Spring Onions and Porcini Mushrooms, Stuffed Baby Artichoke, Sherry Jus. The rabbit was placed on porcini with marjoram, and complemented with a sauce that had an almost "Asian" flavor. Overall a great preparation of rabbit that ranks among the best I've had. On the right is baby artichoke wrapped in a smoky bacon, with rabbit jus. The wine was very light, with a typical nose, subtle minerals, and flavors that evoke young fruit on the tongue.


4: Foie Gras
Rioja Crianza, R. Lopez de Heredia "Viña Cubillo", Spain 2001
With Braised Duck Cannelloni and Green Garlic, Moscato Sauce. We also detected wilted wild arugula, foie gras foam, and candied orange zest. The cannelloni was filled with what I believe is duck confit and Seville orange marmalade. Overall a super-rich, heavy dish, which was paired with an extremely easy-drinking wine. The Rioja was aged in American oak and had flavors of orange zest (matching the orange on the foie), with currant on the nose.


Intermezzo 1: Mango Lychee Puff
Cold and refreshing, with a taste that reminded me of Japanese melon gum (the type that's shaped like a ball, made by Marukawa).


5: Veal
Pinot Noir, Rochioli, Russian River Valley 2005
With Morel Mushrooms, White Asparagus and Crispy Sweetbreads. One of few times I've had milk-fed veal. The sweetbread was crusted in panko and was as good as I thought it'd be. The flan was cheesy and pungent, flavored with morels. The veal paired nicely with the Pinot, which had typical notes of black cherry and smoke and was very jammy in the mouth.



6: A Selection of Artisanal and Farmhouse Cheeses with Complementing Breads and Fruit
Smith Woodhouse Ruby Port, 1994
Overall a superb presentation of cheese, the best I've experienced in a while. I appreciated Nick's knowledge of the cheese and also his sense of humor, as evidenced by the top photo. Clockwise from lower left, if I recall correctly, we have:

• Pasteurized goat's milk from Pug's Leap Dairy. Manufacturer's notes: "Pug's Leap Buche is tangier than the Pave with a luxurious runniness under the bloomy rind. It is citrusy with a gentle, almost sweet, finish."
• I believe this was a goat's milk cheese from Provence. Unfortunately I don't remember anything else about it.
• A sheep's from Portugal called Serra da Estrela. According to the maker, "Queijo Serra da Estrela comes from one of the coldest and highest regions of Portugal. These savory, herbaceous wheels of raw sheep's milk cheese are made with cardoon thistle, raw sheep's milk, and salt and can boast Portugal's DOP name protection. Traditionally scooped out of its leathery cloth-bound rind with pieces of hearty peasant bread, Serra is a a soft, gooey, mildly herbaceous delight. As the wheels age, the paste becomes harder and chewier, but no less delicious."
• Sheep's milk from Sally Jackson Cheeses in Oroville, Washington, a dairy that emphasizes low-tech sustainability; "Instead of a rind for her two-pound rounds, Sally uses chestnut and grape leaves as her signature wrapping materials." This was one of my favorites of the bunch.
• Truffled soft ripe cow's cheese, from a dairy 75 miles outside of Paris. I found this to be creamy and a bit unctuous.
• A creamy cow's milk from Sweet Grass Dairy in Georgia. Green Hill is a semi-ripened, double-cream cheese. Official tasting notes: "This cheese has a buttery taste and soft, creamy texture with a thin to medium rind. Pleasant acidity and very sleek finish."

The paired Port was a quintessential expression of the varietal, one's whose sweetness foiled the creaminess of the cheeses. To quote Robert Parker: "An impressively saturated dark ruby/purple color. This powerful port is moderately sweet, forward, rich, and full-bodied, with nicely integrated alcohol and tannin. Drink now - 2018."


Intermezzo 2: Lemon Lime Seltzer
Reminiscent of a virgin mojito and 7-Up. Note the miniature metal straw. Very refreshing.


7a: Rice Cream Sandwich
Brachetto d'Acqui, Marenco, Piedmont, Italy 2005
With Yamamomo Gelee, Tapioca, and Hibiscus Chips. This was like a sweet mochi rice cream cake, with boba and gold leaf. The yamamomo, or Chinese bayberry, gelée reminded me of a Fruit Roll-Up.


7b: Caramel Soup
1991 Colheita Port, Niepoort
With Kettle Corn Sorbet and Chocolate Filigree. The dessert came as shown in the first photo. Our server then proceeded to pour hot caramel soup over the dish, melting the chocolate filigree and coating the kettle corn. Very cool presentation!


Mignardises
These included caramels, raspberry covered chocolates, hibiscus red gelée, and strawberry lemon ices. I accidentally pushed down on one of the spoons a bit too hard, sending my strawberry lemon ice flying across the table. Our server brought a replacement before I could even pick it up.


Gift
Takeaways included a hard green candy, a caramel, and a melon "marshmallow." I wasn't a big fan of the hard candy but enjoyed the puff, which tasted a lot like the first intermezzo.



By the time we left to tour the kitchen, the place was still bustling, so we barely got to snap a photo with Chef Keane.

It is clear that Chef Keane and company have a winner on their hands. However, I feel that the restaurant is not quite up to the level of French Laundry, to which it is often compared. Certainly though, there is huge potential here, for Keane to challenge Mr. Keller in the future. But enough comparison, Cyrus is perfectly able to stand on its own, and has become a destination restaurant in its own right. Definitely "worth a detour."