Napa Rose (Anaheim, CA)

Napa Rose
1600 S Disneyland Dr, Anaheim, CA 92802
714.300.7170
disneyland.disney.go.com/disneyland/en_US/hotels/dining/detail?name=NapaRoseDiningPage
Fri 07/27/2007, 08:40p-11:45p



My first experience at Napa Rose, three years ago, wasn't particularly positive. I wasn't impressed by the signature "Seven Sparkling Sins" nor the mediocre grilled shrimp entrée I had. However, that meal occurred during the formative stages of my foodie development, so recently I began to wonder if the food had simply gone over my head at the time. I was eager to give Napa Rose another shot, and my MBA study group's end of year dinner provided the perfect opportunity. We even enjoyed a 20% cast member discount, courtesy of one of my teammates!


After dropping off your car at the complementary valet, you pass through the vast lobby of the Grand Californian before heading outside to the restaurant. I still find it a bit strange that a restaurant of this caliber is located inside Disneyland.



The interior is large and open, very "Californian" I suppose. As can be seen in the photos, Napa Rose has no formal dress code, which is a bit unfortunate in my opinion, as I find it detracts a bit from the fine dining experience.


Walking to our table, we pass the huge open exhibition kitchen. Note the counter tables, where diners can watch their dishes being created.



The dinner menu offers many interesting selections. A four-course "Vintner's Table" is offered nightly and changed each Friday. Yes, four courses is indeed a bit sparse by my standards (having gone as high as 31, and routinely going into the teens); but apparently, an eight-course tasting menu is available via special arrangement. That's something I definitely want to try on my next visit. The Executive Chef is Andrew Sutton and the Pastry Chef is Jorge Sotelo. Click for larger versions.


I started with a mojito, as is customary for me these days. This was a solid example, though just a touch too sweet. Interestingly enough, when others at my table ordered the drink, they came out significantly stronger. When we inquired about the discrepancy, it turns out that there was a change of bartenders!


Four types of bread were offered: olive, tomato, a crispy flatbread, and a regular roll. I liked all of them, though I noted that our bread baskets were not refilled promptly.


Amuse Bouche: Goat Cheese Basil Pesto Tart
Very pretty, but I found this a bit lacking in flavor, as I could barely tell this was goat cheese; I did enjoy the application of basil and pesto though. One of my dining companions had sort of an opposite reaction, finding the cheese "pretty strong."


1: Pan Seared Pacific Snapper
Feudi de San Gregorio, Fiano de Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy 2004
With Manila Clams and Black Mussels with Saffron Chowder. An excellent preparation of snapper, resoundingly fresh, with a firm, yet pliant flesh accented by a delectable crispy skin. This was the favorite dish of the night for one member of my party, who noted the harmonious interplay of flavors and the "perfect" selection of snapper for this dish. He even sopped up the chowder with bread afterwards! As for the wine, I don't believe any of us at the table were huge fans. It was the weakest pairing of the night for me, as I found it a bit too dry and herbaceous.



2: Oak Roasted Quail
Qupé Winery, Marsanne, Ibarra-Young Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley 2002
With Caramelized Peach and Bacon Tart Tatin with Chipotle-Quail Jus. A superb preparation of quail, this dish provided perhaps my most flavorful bites of the night. The wine pairing was also a marked improvement from the previous course. Marsanne (usually blended with Roussanne, as was the case here) is a Rhône varietal that I'd like to see more often; in this lighter style from Qupé, it pairs quite well with food. One of my dining companions loved the tart tatin and how the bacon added a very "unique twist" to a peach cobbler. Another thought this dish was "much, much better" than anticipated. He was a bit wary going in, not usually eating quail, but found that the bird was akin to a "tender chicken wing". He was also unsure about the tart initially (as was I), but discovered that it worked "surprisingly well." Overall, he and I enjoyed both parts of this dish, but also felt that perhaps the flavors didn't link up as well as they could have.


3: Grilled Lamb "T Bone" Chops
Gaja, Sito Moresco, Langhe, Piemonte, Italy 2003
Farro Salad with Roasted Peppers, Fava Beans, and Eggplant. This may have been my first time with a lamb "T-bone." I don't think this cut was as tender or flavorful as the "lollipop" chops I usually get, but I did enjoy it. My main complaint was that it was simply too much; I think this was the most lamb I've ever had at one sitting! One of my dining companions was not a lamb-eater and thus was not a huge fan of this course, but really enjoyed the accompanying flavors and spices of the dish (as did I). In fact, he even noted Indian or Persian flavors. The wine pairing, from legendary Barbaresco producer Gaja, was my favorite of the night. Sito Moresco combines the best of Nebbiolo, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon in a delectable threesome. Easy-drinking, yet elegant and complex, with smooth tannins and a medium finish.


4: Vanilla & Nectarine Semifreddo "Duet"
Michele Chiarlo, "Nivole" Moscato di Asti DOCG, Piedmonte, Italy 2005
With a White Arctic Nectarine "Elixir" and Fresh Blackberry Sauce. Unfortunately, dessert was the weakest course for me and others as well. One of my dining companions really enjoyed the caramelized sugar crust of the "Creamsicle-like" semi-freddo and felt the course was light and refreshing, but thought that the mildly disparate flavors of the semi-freddo, elixir, and berries didn't meld as much as she would've liked. Another thought that the nectarine overshadowed the vanilla portion of the semi-freddo and was a bit "strange" when eaten with the blackberry. The elixir was a bit of a "novelty" and rather cloyingly sweet. I did thoroughly enjoy the paired Moscato di Asti however; it had a subtle sweetness that paired well with the wine's light carbonation.

The following dishes were not part of the Vintner's Table and were ordered by other members of my party. Unfortunately, I didn't have the opportunity to try most of them, so comments will be expectedly sparse.


Warm Roasted Heirloom Beet Salad
With Applewood Smoked Bacon, Mine Shaft Blue Cheese, Frisée, Endive, Watercress and a Cider Vinaigrette.


The Sizzling Beach Rock
A Combination Appetizer of Garlic Seared Shrimp, Soy Glazed Spare Ribs and Lemon Grass Chicken cooked on a Hot Beach Stone. Like the "Seven Sparkling Sins," this appetizer was also meant for two.


Wild Alaskan King Salmon
Sorrel-English Pea Coulis and a Ragù of Coastal Mushrooms, Leeks and Bacon Lardons. I got to try a piece of this (right photo) and thought that the salmon was expertly cooked, garnished well, and quite good.


Grilled Angus Beef "New York" Steak
Farm House Bacon & Cheddar "Mac-n-Cheese" and Cabernet Sauvignon Reduction.


Sautéed Wild Alaskan Halibut
With Loster Tempura, Gingered Corn & Cucumber Salad, and a Lemon Grass-Red Bell Pepper Sauce.


Short Rib of Beef Braised Slowly
With Roasted Garlic and Roots in Zinfandel, served over Spring Vegetables Risotto and Baby Brussels Sprouts.


Napa "Pick Me Up"
Valrhona Chocolate-Espresso, Mousse Cake & Bailey's "Pot au Créme". Compared to our semi-freddo, this was "strikingly different," with "lush" flavors of Bailey's and chocolate.


Ice Cream "Sandwich"
Pistachio Cookies with Blackberry & Passion Fruit-Mango Ice Cream.

To be honest, I was pleasantly surprised by the meal. Sure, there were a few minor misses, and the service could surely use some tweaking, but overall I definitely enjoyed my time at Napa Rose. I'm not sure if it's the restaurant that's improved, my palate, or both, but I'm looking forward to coming back for the extended tasting!

Blue Star (Colorado Springs, CO) [2]

The Blue Star
1645 S Tejon St, Colorado Springs, CO 80906
719.632.1086
www.thebluestar.net
Wed 07/12/2007, 05:55p-06:45p



The Blue Star has been one of the Spring's most popular restaurants ever since its inception in 1995. It is also one of my favorites, so I often find the time to stop by on my trips.


Located on a sleepy section of Tejon south of downtown, Blue Star's exterior is relatively modest. The restaurant also offers complementary valet parking on certain nights, which I did take advantage of.


The Blue Star is split into two distinct main dining rooms: the more casual bar (pictured) and the white tablecloth dining room.


I was offered two menus: the bar menu (left) and the dining room menu, which has dishes that are a bit more substantial. One thing that I definitely appreciate is that the menu is innovative and changes extremely often, meaning that I rarely have the same thing twice. Click for larger versions.


The by the glass wine list is provides a broad selection. More of course can be found in the regular wine list, but Blue Star also offers a reserve list with bottles in the four-figure range (including plenty of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti). Click for larger version.


Bread and Hummus were excellent as usual. I'm not sure if I've had a better dip for bread anywhere.


Continuing on with my recent mojito binge, this was an example made with blackberry-infused rum. It was an interesting twist but I think I still prefer the original. I also ordered a glass of Chardonnay, Tolosa "No Oak", Sonoma Co, CA and one of Sauvignon Blanc, Kunde Estate, Sonoma Valley, CA.


Caribbean style pork eggroll
With mango remoulade & lettuce. These were similar to the egg rolls I had last time, but better. I loved the remoulade.


Roasted Pekin Duck
Balsamic glazed cipollini, red plums, sour cream chive potato pancake. I didn't particularly care for this dish, as I felt the duck was far too sweet. In fact, it didn't really resemble any Pekin duck I've had before. The plums were good, though I didn't get much of the pancake.


Smoked Salmon "Dolmades"
Nori wrapped, avocado, wakame, somen & unagi syrup. I've never had smoked salmon quite like this before. It actually reminded me a lot of a salmon sushi roll. It was tasty enough, though I would've liked a tad more salmon and fewer accoutrements.


Conch Fritters
Nellie & Joe's Key lime aioli. I've never had conch before; in fact, I didn't even know it was edible. The conch had a very interesting texture, with a slight crunch, and a taste that was reminiscent of the beach.


Corleone
Vanilla bean ice cream rolled in nutmeg, cinnamon, graham cracker, honey. This is Blue Star's signature dessert, one that "you can't refuse" apparently. Indeed, I would have a hard time refusing this, as the interplay between the ice cream and "crust" was simply heavenly. I was told that Thursday was free Port night, so I was given a complementary 1oz pour of Penfolds Tawny Port, which was surprisingly good.

Sure, there were a few misses this night, and this was thus one of the weaker meals I've had here. Nevertheless, my past experiences and the restaurant's constant innovation will keep me coming back.

Metropolitain (Colorado Springs, CO)

Metropolitain
101 N Tejon St, Colorado Springs, CA 80903
719.302.0280
www.themetropolitaindowntown.com
Wed 07/11/2007, 07:40p-08:45p



I had been previously to Metropolitain, back when it first opened. The concept then was to serve small "tapas"-style dishes meant for sharing. I got the feeling that it didn't do too well, and the chef was replaced by none other than Brent Beavers, the former chef from the now defunct Sencha. Beavers, I believe, is now at the Ritz Grill, while the current Executive Chef is Marcus McCoy. McCoy has gotten rid of Metropolitain's old focus of small plates, instead infusing a more traditional menu setup. According to my server, this rationalization allows him to better ensure the quality of ingredients (the former menu was about three times as large).


One enters Metropolitain through a subway style entrance. It's very easy to miss if you don't know what you're looking for. Unfortunately this seems like it would prevent much walk-in traffic.


The subterranean dining room is warm and cozy, with space for around a dozen tables. There is also an adjoining bar/lounge area.


As usual these days, I started the meal with a mojito. This was simply one of the best I've ever had, and I made sure to send my regards to the bartender.


Compared to the old Metropolitain, the menu is vastly more focused. Note the "Sencha" salad; Beaver's legacy lives on here apparently. The salmon "Theresa" is named after the chef's wife. Click for a larger version.


The wine list is small but fairly diverse. I had a glass of dry Riesling from Bernard Griffith, Columbia Valley. Click for larger version.


The flatbread was excellent and reminded me a bit of Chinese onion pancake in texture. The sauce was a slightly sweet onion dip with honey and basil. One of the tastiest bread presentations I've had in a while, this compares favorably to the superb bread and hummus at the popular Blue Star.


Amuse Bouche: Salami
Salami wrapped around arugula salad and goat cheese, with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. I was pleasantly surprised that they were offering an amuse (they didn't last time I was here). I guess it may be part of the new menu and an attempt to go more upscale.


Manage au Crab
Three preparations: bisque, mousse, cake. The mousse was like a very nice crab salad, while the cake was generous and without too much filler. The weakest of the troika unfortunately was the bisque, which was a bit thin for me; I would've liked more cream.


Springs Shrimp
Chili-lime marinated and grilled, tomato corn chili, orange mint salsa with an avocado lime vinaigrette. The shrimp had great texture and a fantastic smoky flavor. This was my favorite dish of the night and left me wanting more.


Skewers
Grilled shrimp, filet mignon, red pepper, and jalapeno skewers atop a Greek salad of spinach, feta, grapefruit, tomato, cucumber, and olive. The filet was tender and the shrimp well cooked; both were delicious. Even though I'm not much of a salad person, I still enjoyed it here. However, the amount of salad was simply too much, especially since this was an appetizer portion, and I struggled to finish it. The amount would be perfect for a lunch entree though. The restaurant was considering adding this dish to the menu, so I made sure to relay my comments to my server.


Poached Pear
With port reduction, vanilla ice cream, and mint. This was actually my first time with a poached pear dessert. Not bad! I liked the hot/cold contrast between the pear and the cool ice cream center. I paired this with an excellent Inniskllin Vidal Ice Wine, 2004.

My first outing at Metropolitain was a slight disappointment. Indeed, the menu was a bit unfocused and inconsistent, but it appears that McCoy and company have since remedied that. The new set of offerings is smaller yes, but better for it. My hope now is that the chef can continue this positive momentum and perhaps lend some stability to Metropolitain.

Nosh (Colorado Springs, CO)

Nosh
121 S Tejon St, Colorado Springs, CA 80903
719.635.6674
www.nosh121.com
Tue 07/10/2007, 06:30p-07:15p



Nosh is the new restaurant at the FAC (Fine Arts Center) Modern in Downtown. It focuses on "tapas"-style small plates, a concept I admittedly do find appealing and intriguing.


Nosh's interior is open and airy, with high ceilings and plenty of exposed brick. Diners enjoy a great view of Pioneer Square Park. There is a main dining room with bar, and a smaller room off to the side where I sat.


The menu consists of an array of interesting-sounding small plates meant for sharing. Prices are extremely reasonable, especially since I imagine most people will be quite satiated with four courses (it took six for me). Click for larger versions.


The wine list is short but sweet, with choice selections from around the globe. The offerings by half glass are a nice touch. The drinks list looks decent too, though I didn't order anything off it. Click for larger versions.

For the first three seafood courses, I enjoyed two half glasses of Dr. Loosen, Blue Slate Riesling, Germany (a little sweet, crisp acidity, minerality, white peach, lemon) and Allan Scott, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, NZ (balanced acidity, crisp, passion fruit & gooseberry).


Smoked Trout
Over Horseradish Croquette w/ Beurre Blanc. The trout was decent enough, especially when eaten with the beurre blanc, though it was not quite what I expected from a smoked preparation. The round thing was a "corn fritter" and was quite tasty.


Salmon
Lemon Steamed Salmon w/ Capellini and Cream. The salmon was cooked well, moist and not too dry, but I didn't particularly care for the lemon flavor. But my main complaint with the dish was that there was far too much capellini ("thin hair"), or Angel Hair pasta, to handle.


Summer Shrimp Tacos
Cool Refreshing Shrimp Salad w/ Spice Cream. I loved the shrimp/cream interplay and the guacamole as well. Each "taco" was a delicious self-contained bite; my favorite dish of the night!

For the meat dishes, I paired a half glass of Box Car Syrah, California (big & lush, blackberries, espresso, dusty tannins, spice). The wine was very bold and held its own against the stronger flavors of the beef and lamb.


Seared Lamb Loin
Seared Lamb Loin Over Mint Shallot Salad Topped w/ House Chutney. The lamb was nice and peppery though cooked a bit too well done. I enjoyed the salad but thought the red pepper chutney was a bit sweet.


Nori Wrapped Beef
A Taste of Colorado Kissed by Japan. Basically pieces of beef wrapped in seaweed, bathed in soy sauce, served with Sriracha and wasabi. An interesting concept, though the beef was a bit chewy and tended to be dominated by the soy, though the sauce was tempered when the beef was taken with the garnishes.


Fingers
Blueberry cream filled, white & dark chocolate. I had this with a glass of Torbeck Muscat Blanc (sweet w/ flavors of honeydew melon & rose water). Rich chocolate taste with subtle blueberry notes. Very nice, these were a great way to end the meal!

I really like Nosh's concept of small plates, as it allows me to create my own "tasting menu" of sorts. After all, I do enjoy trying as many dishes as possible over the course of a meal. Although there were a few misses, I see real potential here. I just hope Nosh lasts until my next visit to the Springs!

Kevin Taylor (Denver, CO)

Kevin Taylor
1106 14th St, Denver, CO 80202
303.820.2600
www.ktrg.net
Mon 07/09/2007, 08:00p-11:15p



After my first meal in Denver at Zengo, it was time to decide on number two. Initially I had looked at Mizuna, but soon found out that it was closed at the time. I was definitely looking for a tasting menu, so Kevin Taylor was the next logical choice.


The interior is about what I expected: replete with high ceilings, elegant and formal, if a bit stuffy. The dining room itself is rather small, with room for about ten tables. There is also a semi-private dining room on the second floor.



The tasting menus are unique in that the diner chooses the dishes. Obviously, we went for the 7-course degustation, with wine naturally. The sommelier was kind enough to write down each of our wine pairings, lest we forget. The Executive Chef is B.J. Wojtowicz and the Pastry Chef is Jason LeBeau. Click for larger versions.


Three varieties of bread were offered: sourdough (mild), olive (with big chunks of olive, very strong flavor), and rustic Italian (my favorite). The butter was a bit hard to start, but quickly warmed up to the perfect consistency.


Amuse Bouche: Tasting of Asparagus
Asparagus overload! The amuse consisted of asparagus wasabi purée, asparagus butter cream, asparagus relish, and truffled asparagus chips. We were advised to mash everything together before eating. It was quite nice, and rather complex for an amuse. The taste actually reminded me a bit of guacamole!


1a: Spiced Coconut Sushi Grade Tuna Ceviche
Walter Hansel, Estate Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2005
With Daikon Radish Slaw, Summer Squash Paint and Soy Caramel. Very delicate and light, the garnishes didn't mask the subtlety of the tuna; a completely different (and superior, in my opinion) way of approaching ceviche than what we had at Zengo the previous night. The Walter Hansel was a bit atypical compared to the Chards I normally drink. It had a strong bouquet of overripe fruit and flowers, and was sweet, heavy and oaky in the mouth.


1b: Meyer Lemon King Crab Escabeche
Francois Cazin, Cheverny, Loire, 2005
With Avocado Crab Salad, Brown Butter Gelée and Tomato Consommé. Crisp and clean, this was very fresh, a bit tart, and preferred to ceviche. The paired Sauvignon Blanc showed an acidic, fruity nose and was light and tart on the palate, the polar opposite of the Chardonnay.



2a: Snake River Farms Kobe Steak Tartare
Jean Louis Chave, Mon Coeur, Côtes du Rhône, 2005
With Truffled Pomme Frites, Fried Quail Egg and Indonesian Ketchup. Seriously the best beef tartare I've ever had. The ketchup was excellent (made sure to scoop up every last drop) and the pommes were delectable but a complete tease, I wanted more! The wine was a Grenache-based blend, with slight chocolate notes. It was surprisingly good.



2b: Cocoa Dusted Seared Grade "A" French Foie Gras
Château Suiduiraut, Sauternes, 1er Cru, 1998
With Brioche French Toast, Pickled Cherries, Cherry Vanilla Gastrique. Very sweet and soft, the foie went well with brioche and excellent with the wine. As for the Suiduiraut, it was super thick and rich, even for Sauternes. Flavors of honey, peach, ripe fruit, and even a little leather come to the forefront.


3a: Chilled Golden Gazpacho
Günter Triebaumer, Sauvignon Blanc, Austria, 2006
With Basil Foam, Smoked Paprika Almonds and Olive Grissini. Made with golden tomatoes, the gazpacho was nice and refreshing, especially given the heavy courses preceding it. The paprika on the rim left a slight tingling sensation on the lips, and perhaps also contributed to the sweetening of the wine as the dish was devoured.


3b: "Manhattan" Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder
Kunin Pape Star, Central Coast, 2005
With Grilled Porcini, Smoked Corn Gelée, Pea Shoots. Unfortunately I didn't snap a photo until the chowder was poured (thanks to Ryan for the "before" version). Really on the opposite spectrum of soups in relation to the gazpacho above, this was lush and velvety in comparison. Unfortunately the richness made it difficult for me to discern the individual flavors. The accompanying wine was a Rhône blend, with notable aromas of dark berries and a simplicity which continued on to the palate and finish.



4a: Chilled Maine Lobster Salad
Schlumberger, Riesling, Saering Grand Cru, Alsace, 2004
With Chilled Asparagus Succotash, Pickled Pepper Salad, Bouillabaisse Vinaigrette. Unfortunately the lobster wasn't particularly flavorful (though texture and freshness were good), but I loved the corn succotash. As for the Riesling, it was slightly mineral-y on the nose, leading to a crisp, floral acidity in the mouth and a brief finish.


4b: Chilled Peach and Mache Salad
Marcel Deiss, Muscat, Alsace, 2005
With Salted Foie Gras Terrine, Toasted Pistachios and Licorice Vinaigrette. The terrine and pistachio interplay was simply fantastic. The strong licorice flavor lent itself well to the wine, which was semi-sweet to match the foie. This may be the second best foie gras terrine I've had, behind the absolutely phenomenal example at French Laundry, of course.


5a: Butter Poached Maine Lobster
Louis Latour, Meursault, 2004
With Soft Egg Ravioli, Honey Mushrooms, Black Truffle Emulsion. The lobster had an almost creamy texture, which I rather liked. The ravioli (filled with runny egg yolk) was tasty, as were the mushrooms. The Meursault was a delicate example of the Chardonnay varietal, with citrus and herbaceous notes and peach flavors in a supple finish.


5b: Crispy Seared New Zealand Grouper
Yalumba, Viognier, Eden Valley, 2006
With Pineapple Spätzle, Caramelized Peach Palm, Citrus Fruit, Ginger Froth. This may have been my first experience with grouper, but hopefully not my last! The fish was dense yet crisp, I loved the texture; it was not quite like anything else I've ever had (almost like a firmer, less oily version of sea bass). Very, very good. It went well with the Viognier, with had a spicy, citrus-y nose which continued all the way to the finish.


6a: Kobe Beef Ribeye Steak
Two Hand, Gnarly Dudes, Shiraz, Barossa Valley, 2005
With Black Truffle Mashed Potatoes, Summer Vegetable Confit, Red Wine Butter. The beef, from Snake River Farm, had medium fattiness for a Wagyu cut (especially when compared to Japanese versions). The truffled mashed potatoes were extremely rich and stood up to the meat, as did the Shiraz, which exhibited typical spicy notes that complemented the beef's flavors.


6b: Roasted Colorado Bison and Bison Short Rib
Produttori del Barbaresco, Nebbiolo, Langhe, 2005
With Cheddar Broccoli Gratin, Foie Gras Fries, Pommery Mustard Peppercorn Jus. It wouldn't be a proper Colordoan dinner without bison right? The meat had a slight gaminess and smokiness that went together well, and was significantly more tender than I expected, though the short ribs were a bit too fatty for me. Loved the potato too! The Barbaresco was surprisingly subtle considering the power of the Nebbiolo grape. Very easy drinking actually, a pleasure to sip.


7a: Lemon Curd "Baked Alaska"
Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Muscat, Beames de Venice, 2005
With Black Currant Meringue, Meyer Lemon Syrup, Lavender "Bubbles". For me, the crust, caramelized and crisp, was the best part of the dish. The paired wine showed typical Muscat notes, but did not lose its potency when taken with the dessert.


7b: Hawaiian Pineapple and Mascarpone Napoleon
Villa la Selva, Vin Santo, 2001
With Lace Cookies, Pineapple Nougat, Root Beer Ginger Foam. I thought the nougat was the strongest part of the dish, as it balanced the sweet and tart components of the dessert. The paired wine was fairly interesting, made in the Amarone style accoring to our server, and was almost Port-like in nature.


Petit Fours
A piece of white chocolate with chocolate cookies along with a bite of chocolate mousse with crunch layers. Very good, I wish we had gotten more!


Before dessert, we were given a quick tour of the kitchen (shared with Prima) by Chef Wojtowicz, passing by the various stations for hot appetizers, cold appetizers, dessert, etc. He is a younger chef, whose youthful enthusiasm and flair were evident in his dishes.

I was pleasantly surprised by Kevin Taylor; it was definitely worth the 2+ hour drive from Colorado Springs. Easily my best meal in Denver, I certainly don't regret going in lieu of Mizuna.

Zengo (Denver, CO)

Zengo
1610 Little Raven St, Denver, CO 80202
720.904.0965
www.modernmexican.com/zengodenver/
Sun 07/08/2007, 06:30p-08:10p



Zengo ("give and take" in Japanese, apparently) is Chef Richard Sandoval's Asian-Latin entry in his expanding culinary empire (Sandoval owns a number of restaurants across the country, along with two others in Denver). In any case, the fusion sounded like an interesting one, and we were excited to give Zengo a go.


Located across from the Platte River and Commons Park, Zengo is situated in a tony section of Denver's Union Station neighborhood, near the trendy LoDo district.



Zengo's interior provides a hip and fun air, with plenty of reddish tones. We arrived early and had a drink at the bar, only to be chatted up by an older man who seemed to take an unhealthy interest in us. I suspect he was drunk.



As always, we asked for signed copies of the menu at the end of meal. However, we experienced a first at Zengo: we were actually charged for them! $35 for two, specifically; at least we got to keep the covers, which were quite nice. In any case, the menu focuses on small plates, meant for sharing (which we definitely took to heart). The Chef de Cuisine is John Calloway. Click for larger versions.


We also requested a vegetarian menu for a member of our party. Click for larger version.



The drink menu is fairly extensive, with a large selection of premium tequilas. As usual, I had a mojito to start, which was tasty and deftly prepared. I also sampled their "shisojito," made with shiso instead of mint, which I found to be noticeably sweeter but still quite good. Click for larger versions.



Tasting of 2 Ceviches
We decided to start with a sampling of two ceviches. The first was Mahi Mahi with Coconut, Pineapple, Basil, Habanero, and Sesame. It had a slight kick from the haberno but I thought it was a bit sweet from the coconut milk. The second was Camaron with Shrimp, Green Papaya, Watermelon, and Yuzu. I liked the zestiness of the yuzu and the watermelon was a nice touch. However, overall, I thought the flavors of the fish and shrimp didn't come to center stage as much as I would've liked.


Hamachi Tiradito
Cucumber, Lemon, Shiso, Sriracha, Soy. Excellent, with great fish quality. I loved how the Sriracha provided fire and foil to the mildness of the yellowtail/cucumber combo.


Seared Salmon Tiradito
Piloncillo-Citrus Mustard Sauce, Soy, Wakame. Again a very fresh tasting preparation of fish, in a very complementary sauce. I'm usually not a fan of wakame (kelp), but here it's taste and crunchy texture went well with the lightly seared salmon.


Kobe Beef Tiradito
Miso Mustard, Scallions, Ponzu. Not particularly tender or fatty for "Kobe" beef, this nevertheless proved to be quite delicious. The ponzu was an expected accompaniment, but the mustard gave the dish a nice punch.


Kobe Beef Gyoza
Kobe Beef, Shrimp, Red Chile, Onion, Black Vinegar-Soy Sauce. The dumplings were very rich and had a slight bitterness that was tempered by a subtle sweetness. They went well with the soy sauce but easily stood on their own.


At this point, we ordered a bottle of Tozai, Nigori, Osaka "Voices in the Mist" sake, with hints of Fresh Cut Flowers, Anise, and Pear. We forgot to shake the bottle (a good idea with unfiltered sakes) so it became rather cloudy toward the end. A competent nigori, though not the best I've had.


Lobster Potstickers
Lobster, Shrimp, Shitake Mushroom, Basil, Yuzu-Sake Sauce. The potstickers were citrus-y and a bit tart, which matched well with the sweetness of the dipping sauce. I'm not sure if I prefer this or the beef potstickers above.


Kobe Beef
Cooked on a Hot Stone, Wasabi Dipping Sauce. Priced at $11 per ounce (a bargain compared to the $16/oz at Nobu Malibu!). Wagyu beef is best prepared rare, so I don't think we left a single piece on for more than 10 seconds. I even ate a piece raw, which actually was quite delish. Although not necessary, the dipping sauce went great with the beef (and added a nice sounding sizzle on the stone). Great presentation too!


Seared Foie Gras
Oxtail Marmalade, Corn Fritter, Poached Mango, Citrus. This was a competent preparation of foie, but a touch sweet overall, possibly due to the mango. I didn't care for the corn fritter, which proved far too saccharine. Interestingly enough, this was the first taste of foie for a few members of our party. Overall, they didn't mind the taste so much but objected to the soft, creamy texture of the liver.


At this point, it was time to decide on dessert (I always save room for dessert). However, I declined an after-dinner drink, as I had a long drive down to Colorado Springs that night. Click for larger version.


Chocolate Bombe
Cajeta Center, Summer Berry Compote. I loved the soft cajeta (paste made from caramelized sugar and milk) center and blueberries. Overall a great dessert.


Churros y Chai
Chocolate Chai Parfait. I enjoyed the churros immensely, but some complained that the centers were too soft. Good enough on their own, they were brought to the next level when dipped in the parfait. Even better than a similar dish at Catal. Fantastic.