Leatherby's Cafe Rouge (Costa Mesa, CA)

Leatherby's Cafe Rouge
615 Town Center Dr, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714.429.7640
www.patinagroup.com/cafeRouge/
Fri 09/28/2007, 09:50p-12:10a



Leatherby's was my third foray into the Patina group of restaurants, the first two being Catal and the flagship Patina. My expectations were not particularly high going on, since my dining companion's previous experience here was less than stellar. Our decision to dine at Leatherby's was a bit of a whim actually, as we needed somewhere open late to eat after our shopping spree at Bloomingdale's. Fortunately, we were in for a pleasant surprise...


Leatherby's is located in the beautiful new Segerstrom Concert Hall (the Segerstrom family holds vast tracts of land in Orange County and owns South Coast Plaza). The flow of customers is heavily dependent on pre-theater diners and tapers off considerably when there's no show.


The dining room is very modern and sleek, with plenty of glass and other stark surfaces. Tables are fairly well spaced, though we opted for one of the rather enveloping orange booths, which seemed to be covered in a material that just begged to be touched.


We originally ordered the tasting menu with Wagyu supplement, only to be told that the Chef would be preparing a special menu for us (I suspect they ran out of a few key ingredients). It actually turned out to be a good thing however, as I think the spontaneous tasting menu we had would've certainly been better than the standard menu. The Chef de Cuisine, Tim Guiltinan, even sat down with us to go over the menu in person. Click for larger versions.


I believe there were three varieties of bread: standard, olive, and cheese (my favorite, with a fantastically flavorful crust).


Amuse Bouche: Eastern Malpeque Oyster
Meibo Yowano Tsuki Sake Junmai Ginjo
Daikon Mignonette, Shiso. This was one of the best preparations of oysters I've had in recent memory, with the daikon lending a refreshing and tart note to the mollusk. It was milder in flavor than I'm used to (typical of Eastern oysters apparently), which I actually preferred. The paired sake had a good nose with hints of vanilla, though it was a bit harsher than I'd like on the palate.


1: Black Sablefish
Meibo Yowano Tsuki Sake Junmai Ginjo
Sweet Soy, Blue Oyster Mushrooms, Bok Choy, Scallions, Ginger. I don't have sablefish (aka butterfish or black cod) often, but perhaps I should. The fish had a great texture, firm yet flaky, and was superbly flavored with a mixture of scallions and ginger which lent a very Asian taste. The bok choy and the mushrooms in particular were great accompaniments.


2: Alaskan Halibut, Piquillo Pepper, Spanish Chorizo, Venus Clams
Bolgheri, Campo Alla Casa, Enrico Santini, 2004
Piquillo Pepper, Spanish Chorizo, Venus Clams. I was a bit wary of this dish when it came out, but I'm happy to report it turned out quite well. The fish had the signature halibut texture which I expect, and was done in a Spanish-inspired preparation which was a welcomed change to the typical variations of halibut. The included clams were superb and I quite liked the wine (effervescent, with hints of apple) as well.


Intermezzo: "PB&J"
Kyoho Grape Sorbet, Tahini, Toasted Brioche. Tahini is basically a paste made from sesame. The Kyoho is a Concord-esque slip-skin grape originally from Japan, well-regarded for its large size and sweet flesh. Chef Guiltinan told us that he and his staff made a big batch of sorbet with the grapes, but wasn't sure what to do with it, hence this intermezzo. It worked, and I liked it better than any traditional PB&J I've ever had!


3: Duck
Pinot Noir, Campion, Santa Lucia Highlands, 2002
White Truffle, Sweet Corn, Port and Foie Gras Reduction, Beet Leaves. A very flavorful preparation of duck, especially the skin, though parts of the duck were a bit chewy. Corn and truffles aren't a traditional pairing, but it went well with me. The beet leaves draping the duck were interesting, as they had a very tart taste, like they were candied. The duck-Pinot Noir pairing is a classic one, and this particularly spicy Pinot did the duck justice.


4: Snake River Farms Wagyu Ribeye Cap
Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley, 2004
Fingerlings, Watercress, Au Jus. The meat was done rare, and was surprisingly tender, though not as oily, heavy, or rich as Japanese Wagyu. Notice how the marbling is very distinct, compared to the Japanese steaks at CUT. I appreciated how they let the beef stand on its own, with very simple accoutrements. The paired Cab was fairly intense, with less jammy fruit and more earthy notes of tobacco.


5: Chocolate Fondant
Rozes 10 Year Old Port
60% Valhrona Chocolate Mousse, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Raspberry. I quite enjoyed the interplay between the fondant (which seemed to contain some nougat-like chunks) and the ice cream. The Port was a bit lighter and harsher than I prefer though, and tended to overshadow the dessert a bit.

Both my dining companion and I came out of Leatherby's well sated and pleasantly surprised. From what Chef Guiltinan told us, it seems like Leatherby's is a restaurant still trying to find its own identity. Of course, it's greatly affected and dependent on the influx of theater diners, who provide a steady and important source of revenue, but who may be insidiously affecting the rest of us. Chef Mark Gold opened Leatherby's last year, and imparted an Asian influence to the food. After his departure, Guiltinan was made head chef; and now Lauren De Rouen is Executive Chef. According to Guiltinan, the restaurant is moving away from Asia and will likely be going toward a more Franco-centric influence. In any case, we definitely felt that Leatherby's has the potential to be one of the top restaurants in Orange County. It just needs to find itself before it can deliver consistently.

Lawry's The Prime Rib (Beverly Hills, CA)

Lawry's The Prime Rib
100 N La Cienega Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211
310.652.2827
www.lawrysonline.com/theprimerib_beverlyhills_gen_info.asp
Fri 09/14/2007, 06:50p-10:00p



Lawry's is a bit of a Los Angeles icon, but one that I've stayed away from, until now. The reason: I'm not a huge fan of prime rib (give me a steak any day), and Lawry's is all about prime rib (it is "The Prime Rib"), or so I thought. Then one of my colleagues informed me of a special ABC (Anything But California) wine dinner, in which a five-course meal would be paired with wines from outside California. The menu looked intriguing, so I thought I'd give Lawry's a shot.


After dropping your car off to the valet, a largish reception area greets you upon entering. We waited a few minutes here before moving through the capacious main dining room to the Vintage Room in the back.


The Vintage Room contains two long tables, each seating about fourteen. We sat at the end of one, next to two high school English teachers. They proved to be a great source of conversation and levity throughout the night. I'll never look at English teachers the same way again!


On the menu, note the signatures of Walter Eckstein, Executive Chef, and Steve Hosmer, Director of Education at Beam Wine Estates and our guide for the evening. Click for a larger version. Apparently, Chef Eckstein is a bit on the shy side and didn't want to come out, but he did provide a photo. Fight on!



Here, we see Steve opening a bottle of champagne via saber, Napoleon style. Catering Sales Manager Summer Stearns holds up the cleanly cut cork. Unfortunately, for liability reasons, we didn't actually get to drink from this bottle.


The bread came out warm, with a nice spreadable pats of butter.




1: Passed Hors d'Oeuvres
Croser Sparkling Pinot Chardonnay, Piccadilly Valley, Australia NV
We have: (1) Sesame Seared Tuna on Star Fruit, very light and refreshing, a great way to kick things off; (2) Gougères, a delectable, cheesy bread; (3) Potato Pancakes with Caviar and Crème Fraîche, my favorite of the trio, reminiscent of tater tots with a creamy twist, courtesy of the crème fraîche (the caviar was pretty mild).


2: Crab Salad with Avocado and Mango
Knappstein Hand Picked Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia 2006
The avocado and mango proved to be good companions to the crab, providing an interplay in tartness and texture. Surprisingly, the Riesling was much drier than I was used to (my previous experiences being with sweeter German versions).


3: Fennel-Scented Duck Breast with Pinot Noir Sauce
Wither Hills Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand 2005
I heard someone mention that their duck was a bit dry. Fortunately, I didn't have that problem, as mine was quite juicy and tender. However, I would've preferred a less robust sauce, as I found it a tad overpowering. Duck and Pinot is a classic combination, one that certainly worked out here.


4: Black Pepper Steak with Pomegranate Molasses
St. Hallett Blackwell Shiraz, Barossa, Australia 2005
Despite not being very fatty or marbled, the beef was quite delicious, cooked perfectly and flavored just the right amount. The pear-like thing in the back was actually a truffled pear. Shiraz is well-known for its spiciness, and that spiciness certainly held up well to the copious amounts of black pepper here.


5: Coffee Cream Tart in a Coca-Espresso Crust
Cockburn's 10 Year Tawny Port, Porto, Portugal
Unfortunately this was a bit uninspired compared to the preceding dishes, though it certainly tasted good, with strong coffee notes. Most entertaining factoid of the night: "Cockburn" is actually pronounced coh-burn.




After dinner, Summer was kind enough to give us a tour of the kitchen, one of the most complete tours we've had, actually. According to her, Lawry's is the number one consumer of prime meat in the Southland, which I can certainly believe.

This dinner definitely convinced me that there's more to Lawry's than just prime rib. The chef just needs to be given the chance to shine, and special dinners like this are a great way for him to show off the range of his culinary prowess. Though next time I'm at Lawry's, I'll be sure to at least sample the prime rib, I promise.

Metropolitain (Colorado Springs, CO) [2]

Metropolitain
101 N Tejon St, Colorado Springs, CO 80903
719.302.0280
www.themetropolitaindowntown.com
Tue 09/11/2007, 05:00p-06:00p



This was my third visit to Metropolitain. See the report from my second trip here. The restaurant seems to be in a constant state of flux, so let's see what this most recent visit brings...


The decor is one of Metropolitain's strong points, and fortunately, it has remained one of the only constants in my three visits.


The menu underwent a drastic overhaul since my last visit; only a few dishes survived intact (e.g. Springs Shrimp, Artichoke Gratin, Sencha Salad). On my last visit, my server informed me they were moving away from the small plates concept to focus on higher quality ingredients; however, this time, apparently they've gone back! Click for larger version.


The wine expanded a bit since my last visit, though many selections have remained the same. Since I had to go to work after the meal (7PM-7AM shift, yikes!), I only ordered one drink, a glass of III Associates Chardonnay, Australia, 2002, which was passable. Click for larger versions.


Mussels
Brown butter white wine and garlic. The first few mussels I had were quite good, but then I encountered a few that didn't seemed to be cooked through. Unfortunately these paled in comparison to the mussels I had days earlier at Summit; while I complained that Summit's were too small, these were too big! The included cheese bread was fantastic, however.


Fried Calamari
Lightly battered calamari with roasted red pepper pomodoro. The calamari itself was decent, but the paired pomodoro didn't taste quite right to me. I preferred to eat the squid sans sauce.


Pesto Gnocchi
Fried tossed with fresh tomato and pesto. I believe this was my first encounter with fried gnocchi, and it wasn't a great one. The gnocchi weren't particularly tasty, and were a bit tough and oily.


Scallops
Angel hair with roasted garlic butter sauce. The scallops were cooked near perfectly, and were plenty flavorful to boot. The included angel hair was totally unnecessary though. This was the strongest dish of the night.

Sadly, this third visit to Metropolitain was also the most disappointing. The restaurant can't seem to keep still, constantly changing menus, concepts, and even chefs. What happened to the superb flatbread (or any bread at all)? I really appreciated the amuse bouche last time; where'd it go? It appears that Metropolitain has not been blessed with the stability I hoped for at the end of my last meal.

Summit (Colorado Springs, CO) [2]

Summit
19 Lake Cir, Colorado Springs, CO 80906
719.577.5896
www.summitatbroadmoor.com
Sun 09/09/2007, 05:45p-08:20p


I believe this was my fourth visit to Summit (my third trip is documented here). I go to Colorado Springs fairly often on business, and Summit is always one I look forward to. The last time I was alone, but on this occasion I brought along a coworker from the area who definitely had foodie tendencies.


Summit is located across the street from the historic Broadmoor hotel. The hotel is also home to Charles Court and Penrose Room, which are also among the Springs' best restaurants.



Upon entering, you see the bar and the impressive glass wine turret behind it. The dining room is thin and long, with three rows of tables. The decor is modern yet warm, and is arguably the best in the city.



The menu is divided into "Favorites," which represents dishes that pretty much always stay on the menu, and "Seasonal," which, not surprisingly, changes with the seasons. The dessert menu changes regularly as well. Note the multitude of signatures on the "Favorites;" Executive Chef Bertrand Bouquin wasn't in that night, so instead the menu was signed by the entire kitchen staff (a first!). Click for larger versions.


Summit features a good selection of wine by-the-glass choices and signature cocktails. This list is supplemented by a much thicker wine list. Interestingly enough, I heard that each of the Broadmoor's fine dining restaurant focuses on a certain region for their wine lists. Penrose Room is heavily French; Charles Court is California; and Summit features mostly new world wines. Click for larger versions.


I ordered a Perfect 10 Negroni to start. My first Negroni, it consisted of No. Ten by Tanqueray, Campari, and Sweet Vermouth, chilled up. I'm not normally a huge gin drinker, but thought this was pretty good. My dining companion said it was "certainly strong."


Bread came out warm with a nice spreadable butter. It reminded me a lot of ciabatta bread actually. Quite good.


Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels
Albariño, Burgáns, Rias Baixas, Spain, 2006
White Wine and Herb Broth. These may be the best mussels I've ever had. If I had to find any fault, I'd say that they were a bit on the smallish side - forgivable, given the fantastic flavor. The cheesy bread was tasty, though perhaps a bit redundant.


Parsnip Gnocchi and Chanterelles
Chardonnay, Rusack, Santa Barbara County, California, USA 2005
Sugar Snap Peas, Pearl Onions, Parsley Brown Butter. I actually ordered this dish my first visit to Summit and really liked the dish's bold, intense, flavor. It was a bit of a revelation, as it was the first time I tasted really good gnocchi. Fortunately, the dish was as good as I remembered, and went beautifully with the Chardonnay.


Salmon "Escabèche"
Grüner Veltliner, Loimer, Kamptal, Austria, 2005
Celery Leaves, Spring Vegetable. Escabèche is a dish of poached or fried fish that is marinated in an acidic mixture before serving. I didn't try this, but my dining companion seemed to enjoy it, along with the Grüner Veltliner.


Roast Quail Stuffed with Black Mission Figs and Prosciutto
Dolcetto d'Alba, Luciano Sandrone, Piedmont, Italy, 2005
Spinach, Cinnamon Glazed Turnips, Piquillo Pepper Coulis. Again, this was my coworker's main course, so I didn't get to taste it. I believe he mentioned that it "definitely has some interesting flavors." He liked the wine as well.


Smoked Lobster Salad
Cinsault / Syrah, Domaine Sainte-Eugénie, Corbières, Languedoc, France, 2006
Frisée, Lime and Cucumber Relish, Sweet Pepper. This was one of the most interesting preparations of lobster I've ever had. When I took my first bite, I seriously thought that they had given me ham by mistake! The taste and texture were definitely more ham than lobster. The paired red went well with the intense smokiness of the dish.


Snow Crab Wings
Riesling, C. von Schubert, Maximin Grünhäuser, Herrenberg, Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany, 2004
Spicy Pears Remoulade. The salad was fairly pedestrian, but I wanted more of the "wings;" I could eat them all day. I really enjoyed the paired Riesling as well, a Maximin Grünhäuser (which I first tasted at Providence).


Asian Pear and Fennel Caviar
Aresti, Late Harvest Gewürztraminer, Rio Claro, Chile, 2002
Semolina Pound Cake, Apricot and Saffron Ice Cream. My dining companion's dessert. I got to try a little bit and really liked the interplay between the pound cake and the saffron ice cream. The "caviar" was something I'd never seen before.


Pistachio Streusel Cake
Aresti, Late Harvest Gewürztraminer, Rio Claro, Chile, 2002
Marinated Wild Berry, Mascarpone Sorbet. The streusel cake was nice, but the standout part of this dessert was the mascarpone sorbet. The fruit roll-up-looking thing really did taste like a fruit roll-up (though not as sticky).

Summit continues to be one of the strongest, most innovative, and most consistent restaurants in the Springs. However, given that my work is largely done in the city, it's a shame that I may never be back.