Brodard Chateau (Garden Grove, CA)

Brodard Chateau
9100 Trask Ave, Garden Grove, CA 92844
714.899.8273
www.brodard.net/chateau/overview.html
Sat 01/26/2008, 08:55p-10:00p



By now, almost everyone knows about the original Brodard in Little Saigon, and the nem nuong cuon that it's famous for. If you've ever eaten there, it seems like every table in the restaurant has a plate of the omnipresent spring rolls before them. I'm no exception, and consider myself a fan, so trying out this higher-end (and pricier) version was a no-brainer.


The entrance definitely carries more presence. I'm a bit surprised that they have "Smooth Jazz" Wednesdays though.


Awash in dark wood, the decor is chic yet warm, but with subtle elements that remind you you're in a Vietnamese restaurant. Much improved from Brodard proper.



The menu contains a fairly large assortment of items, many of which can be found on the menu at the original Brodard. However, there are plenty of dishes unique to the Chateau as well. Click for larger versions.


The specials and dessert menus. Click for larger versions.


Blackberry Kir Royal: Sparkling Chandon Riche with a splash of raspberry liqueur finished off with a scrumptious blackberry. Hard to go wrong with this!
Soda Chanh Extreme - Vietnamese Mojito: Dry White Rum, freshly squeezed lime juice, mint, & a dash of soda. I'm not sure what made this a Vietnamese mojito, since the ingredients seemed run of the mill, but it was definitely tarter and more acerbic than I'm accustomed to.


Roasted Pork Spring Rolls – Nem Nuong Cuon & Grilled Shrimp Spring Rolls – Chao Tom Cuon
Roasted pork wrapped in rice paper with a crispy roll, lettuce, mint, carrot & cucumber served with Chef's special sauce. Gilled shrimp cake, wrapped in rice paper with a crispy roll, lettuce, carrot, cucumber & mint served with Chef's special sauce. Both the pork and shrimp rolls were just like what I've had at Brodard, with the meat providing just the perfect crunch and textural element to complement the cool, crisp veggies. But the rolls would be incomplete without the special sauce, which is sweet, salty, sour and anything else you could ask for, all at the same time; it is a harmonizing agent of sorts, and ties together all the flavor elements into one cohesive whole. Fantastic! I must say that the rolls certainly were more expensive here though; at the original, you get one more roll for about the same price. And according to my dining companion, the rolls are bigger there too.


Ahi Spring Rolls – Ca Ahi Cuon
Seared Ahi wrapped up in rice paper with lettuce, fresh mango, avocado, mint & cumber served with a mustard soy sauce and roasted pepper mayonnaise. Now in addition to the two "classic" rolls above, the Chateau also offers several other interesting cuon that are not present at Brodard, such as these ahi tuna rolls. The pairing of tuna and avocado is a classic one, and here it worked relatively well. However, the rolls themselves didn't have much in terms of unique flavor. As such, use of the sauces was almost a prerequisite. The mustard soy and pepper mayo did also pair nicely with the other rolls as well.


Roasted Duck Spring Rolls - Goi Cuon Vit
Tender roasted duck wrapped in rice paper with asparagus, scallion, cilantro accompanied with plum sauce. The duck was prepared in a bold, slightly sweet style, which proved to be a fitting foil to the veggies. The plum sauce was reminiscent of the sauce used for Peking duck, and was a bit too sweet for use with the other rolls.


Soft Shell Crab Spring Rolls - Cua Lot Cuon
Crispy soft shell crab tempura, cucumber, butter lettuce, mint, avocado & fresh mango accompanied with Chef's special crab sauce. Soft shell crab didn't seem like it belonged in a spring roll, but it worked surprisingly well, with the savory deep fried crab tempered by its cucumber and lettuce accoutrements. This was my favorite of the rolls outside of the originals.


Vermicelli & Lemon Grass Beef - Bun Bo Xao Dac Biet
Filet mignon sautéed with lemon grass over vermicelli served with Asian greens & a limed-fish sauce. We weren't quite full by the rolls themselves, so we decided to order something else. I was about to go for the classic bo luc lac, one of my favorites, but I'm glad my dining companion convinced me to try something new. The beef was actually similar to what I'd expect from shaken beef, and was quite flavorful as well as tender. It was very nice to have the contrast between the meat and the cool vermicelli and crisp, refreshing veggies. A lovely dish.


Navan Vanilla Cognac Flan
Caramelized custard perfumed with Navan vanilla cognac served with shaved ice. This was almost like a flan. It had a bit too much ice for my tastes, and wasn't particularly inspiring.


Our Special Strawberry Crepe
A delicate & delicious crepe filled with Nutella chocolate and fresh strawberry garnished with whipped cream and bitter sweet dark chocolate. The crepe was quite tasty, with the flavors of the chocolate, strawberry, and whipped cream all melding nicely. I just wish they put in more Nutella!

Food-wise, Brodard Chateau pretty much offers the same level of quality as Brodard; I couldn't tell the rolls apart. You do get a choice of dishes not found at Brodard however, and much improved ambiance, though you do pay for it. So if you just want your fix of nem nuong, you might be wiser to stay with the original. Otherwise, give Brodard Chateau a shot.

Picasso (Las Vegas, NV)

Picasso
3600 Las Vegas Blvd S, Las Vegas, NV 89109
877.234.6358
www.bellagio.com/restaurants/picasso.aspx
Fri 01/25/2008, 06:00p-08:20p



Long before the advent of Joël Robuchon and Guy Savoy, Picasso was perhaps one of the first "serious" fine dining restaurants in Las Vegas. The opening of the Bellagio in 1998 ushered in a new era of luxury in Las Vegas, and Julian Serrano's Picasso was the perfect culinary complement to such unbridled opulence.


Picasso is situated along Bellagio's waterfront, across from Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Prime steakhouse. This location provides diners with superb views of the hotel's Fountains of Bellagio show.


The main lobby affords patrons a good view of the restaurant's wine cellar, which holds over 1,000 bottles.


I found Picasso's dining room comfortable but a bit uninspired, though it was livened up by the presence of genuine Picasso paintings dotting the walls.



Picasso offers a four-course prix fix menu, or a five-course degustation (only five? How passé!). Given the minimal difference in the number of courses, we actually went for the prix fix, as it gave us a bit more flexibility. Note the signature of Chef Serrano. Click for larger versions.


Of course, I started with a mojito (good, but nothing to write home about), while one of my dining companions enjoyed a pear martini.


Three types of breads were offered: walnut raisin, black olive, and French baguette. The embossed butter was a nice touch.



Amuse Bouche: Scottish Salmon
With Quail Egg, Caviar, Cucumber Salad, Crème Fraîche & Potato Leek Soup with Onions and Chives. The salmon had a firmer texture than expected, but matched wonderfully with its accompaniments. The egg and crème fraîche provided a mild creaminess that paired beautifully with the crispness of the cucumber and the salty tang of caviar. Meanwhile, the potato leek soup (smooth, savory, rich, and very satisfying) provided a nice temperature contrast.


1a: Poached Oysters
2005 Domaine du Salvard, Cheverny, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Garnished with Osetra Caviar, Sauce Vermouth. The poaching gave the oysters a firm texture that I thought was quite enjoyable, though one of my dining companions would disagree with this point. Compared to a raw preparation, I found the oysters to be milder, creamier, and less acidic. The flavor of the oysters themselves was tempered, allowing the caviar and vermouth to take a larger role. Lovely. The wine was tart, lean, and crisp, with mineral notes and a refreshing finish; it paired wonderfully with the oysters.



1b: Warm Quail Salad
2006 Bodegas Julian Chivité, Gran Feudo Rosado, Navarra, Spain
With Sautéed Artichokes, Pine Nuts. There were two distinct parts of the bird presented here. The sausage-like piece was noticeably fattier, oilier, and richer; my dining companions liked this better. Though both were excellent, I had a slight preference for the other preparation, which was firmer in texture and more complex in flavor, though not quite as succulent. This was my favorite course of the night. The wine here was a rosé, which showed typical acidity and mild tannins, along with hints of berry; it may have been a bit light for the quail however.


2a: Sauteéd Filet of Black Bass
2005 Tablas Creek, Espirit du Beaucastel Blanc, Paso Robles, CA
With Saffron Sauce and Cauliflower Mousseline. The bass had great texture, firm yet flaky, and was complemented nicely by the saffron sauce. I loved the fish's flavorful, crispy skin. The Tablas Creek was a Rhone-style white blend. Sharp and biting, it displayed notes of spice, stone fruit, and citrus. A good complement to the bass.


2b: Boudin of Fresh Lobster, Shrimp, and Scallops
2005 Henschke, Tilly's Vineyard, Barossa Valley, South Australia
With Tomato Coulis. Think of this as a seafood sausage. My first bite of the accompanying shrimp was disappointing, as it was overcooked and a bit tough. The boudin itself, however, was quite tasty, though I thought the dish could've done with less of the tomato coulis, which tended to hide some of the seafood's natural flavors. As for the wine, we had another white blend. The Henscke showed strong citrus flavors, which actually went quite well with the coulis.


3a: Sauteéd Filet of New Zealand Thai Snapper
2004 Oriel, Setena, Terra Alta Blanca, Spain
With Court-Bouillon Sauce and Fresh Herbs. The fish was fresh and well prepared, with good texture, and very delicate in flavor. This mildness allowed the bouillon sauce and other accompaniments to come to the forefront, which paired deliciously with the Oriel. I thought the broccoli was a bit odd of a complement though.


3b: Roasted Pigeon
2003 Marques de Grinon, Syrah, Dominio de Valdepusa, Spain
With Wild Rice Risotto. Given my propensity for squab, I was a bit let down by this pigeon (squab is merely a young pigeon). Texture-wise, the meat was tougher and stringier than I'm accustomed to, while the flavor was muted by comparison. I usually find squab to be immensely succulent and savory, which was not the case here. The bird wasn't helped by the vegetables and risotto, which seemed like afterthoughts. The Syrah was a decent effort, very smoky and meaty, if not a bit overpowering.


A5 Wagyu Beef
2000 Quest, Margaux, France
With Mushrooms, Mashed Potatoes. Prepared medium-rare, the beef was tender and fatty enough, but lacked the texture I prefer; it just didn't cut very well. In addition, the sauce was a bit overwhelming; for me, a good cut of beef should be able to stand on its own. See CUT for my definition of what a Wagyu steak should be. A letdown, especially for $160(!). The Quest was easy drinking and quite lovely, with soft tannins and notes of smoke and raspberry.


For dessert, we had a choice of items for the dessert menu. Disappointingly, the wine pairings did not include dessert wine. But since I had a four-hour drive back to Southern California ahead of me, I decided to forego it in any case. Click for larger versions.


4a: Pineapple Semifreddo
Buttermilk-Pineapple Cake, Coconut Glacé, Pineapple Sorbet. My favorite dessert. A great assortment of textures and nuances, all held together by a common theme of pineapple.


4b: Torta Caprese
Satsuma Mandarins in a Baltos Cinnamon Syrup, Port Butter Ice Cream. The cake portion was rich, dense, and flaky, while the ice cream and satsumas added another layer of substance and flavor. Very nice.


Warm Chocolate Fondant
Espresso Ice Cream with Toffee Bits. Good, but very similar to all the "warm chocolate cakes" I find at restaurants these days. The espresso ice cream and toffee did help mix things up though.


Mignardises
A nice selection of truffles, gelées, et al. A tasty way to end the meal.


Take Away
These were cookies filled with a fruit marmalade-like substance. I thought they were quite good, if not a bit sticky. What really impressed me was the box, which seemed to be quite well made and featured a magnetic closure.

I remember that the last time I was in Vegas (which admittedly was a while ago), Picasso was considered the best restaurant in the city. At a price point of over $100, it was something almost unattainable to me. However, on this most recent trip, it seemed a bit pedestrian, like just any another restaurant, with good, but not spectacular food. Has my palate just evolved so much? Or has the restaurant indeed gone down a notch? To be sure, Picasso has indeed lost some of its luster, having been eclipsed by the likes of Guy Savoy, Joël Robuchon, and even Alex. My question is: will the restaurant adapt and improve, or will it continue to fade?

Joël Robuchon (Las Vegas, NV)

Joël Robuchon
3799 Las Vegas Blvd S, Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.891.7925
www.mgmgrand.com/dining/joel-robuchon-at-the-mansion-french-restaurant.aspx
Thu 01/24/2008, 08:50p-12:10a



The advent of Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas ushered in the beginning of a new era: it firmly established the city as a culinary destination to be reckoned with. Once known for its all-you-can-eat buffets and $1.99 steaks, Sin City is now a showcase of the gastronomic world, with top chefs from around the globe establishing beacons in this desert oasis. In addition to Joël Robuchon, we have Alain Ducasse, Bobby Flay, Bradley Ogden, Charlie Palmer, Charlie Trotter, Daniel Boulud, David Burke, Emeril Lagasse, Guy Savoy, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Mario Batali, Michael Mina, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Thomas Keller, Tom Colicchio, and Wolfgang Puck (whew!). But despite this formidable competition, Robuchon is the one and only to have garnered three Michelin stars; and it also the sole restaurant to have received a four-star review from LA Times' notorious food critic S. Irene Virbila. If you can only have one meal in Las Vegas, I firmly believe that this is the place to do it, assuming, of course, your wallet can stomach the damage.


Although Robuchon is located just a few precious feet from the clamor of the casino floor, the restaurant provides a haven of tranquility once you step inside. The checkerboard tile of the lobby greets you before you enter the main dining room. To your left is the bar.



Robuchon's dining room is a relatively intimate affair; for me, it recalls a salon of a posh upper-class apartment in mid-century Paris, replete with a massive Swarovski chandelier, coffered ceilings, and posh aubergine sofas. It is quite simply one of the most luxurious dining rooms I've ever experienced. This salon opens up to an "outside" seating area complete with ivy hedges and stone statues (next time I'll try to sit here). According to our server, the dining room seats sixty, though they prefer to keep the restaurant well below capacity. And indeed, the place was about half full when we arrived.


Two set menus are offered: a six-course and a thirteen-course (formerly sixteen). The six-course was considered for about a nanosecond: if we've come this far, we'd want the full Robuchon experience. The menu on the left is what we received at the beginning of the meal, while the other is customized with our party's name and the signature of Executive Chef Claude Le Tohic (I have no idea what he wrote). Le Tohic worked with Robuchon at Jamin in Paris, while the Chef de Cuisine Tomonori Danzaki hails from Tokyo. Click for larger versions.


Naturally, I had to start with a mojito. Good thing I did, as it was truly one of the best I've ever had. One of my dining companions wanted a cucumber martini. They didn't have the requisite ingredients, so a pear martini was offered instead. I had a sip, and it was delicious.


Unfortunately, Robuchon doesn't offer set wine pairings, so we decided to go it by the bottle (left to right):

• Bruno Paillard, 'Brut Rosé Première Cuvée', Reims, NV: Crisp and light, the Paillard exhibited typical Champagne notes of toast, along with tinges of vanilla and spice; this wasn't too different than a non-rosé cuvée actually.
• Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Riesling Spätlese, Dr. Bernkasteler Badstube, Wegeler, 2004: A bit less sweet than I expected from a spätlese, which probably worked out for the best given the food; clean citrus and mineral flavors are this wine's signatures.
• Merlot, Shafer, Napa Valley, 2004: Quite tasty and easy drinking, a lush presentation of dark fruit and earth leads to a moderately chewy texture and a slightly tart ending.
• Pacherenc du Vic Bihl 'Brumaire', Domaine Alain Brumont, 2004 (dessert, not pictured): My first experience with this type of dessert wine; I found it more straightforward than a Sauternes, with jammy hints of stone fruit and vanilla leading to a long, lingering finish.

These were actually some of the most affordable bottles on the list. Beware of the markup; it's routinely around four times retail! Consider that a 1995 DRC Romanée-Conti was on the wine list for $16,000; I've paid less than a quarter of that for a bottle. We considered bringing our own wines, at least before we found out that corkage is a whopping $100. And I thought the $50 at French Laundry was steep...


Quite simply the most impressive bread cart I've ever encountered! Two dozen varieties must have been presented. It took our server a few minutes to run through the entire list, and I had a hard time remembering all of them. I personally sampled bacon, basil focaccia, and olive; those were about all I could recall! Other varieties included Gruyère, saffron focaccia, and milk bread.


1: L'Avocat - Dans une infusion juste prise aux herbes et une caillebotte à l'huile d'olive
Avocado purée in a thin herb gelée and olive oil flavored curd cheese. A slightly tart tomato base contrasts and complements a rich, creamy topping, so it's best to get all the layers in one bite. This actually reminded me of a a seven-layer dip (think salsa, guacamole, and cheese), not necessarily a bad thing mind you! A great way to start the meal.




2: Le Caviar - Asperge verte aux feuilles de mélisse, gelée recouverte d'une onctueuse crème de chou-fleur, fines graines de couscous iodé
Green asparagus topped with Oscetra caviar (with lemon balm; an interesting combination; great texture and snap on the asparagus, though caviar was less apparent), delicate gelée and a smooth cauliflower cream (good interplay between a mild creaminess and briny tang; I would've liked to try it without the gelée mediating the caviar and cream), thin couscous and Oscetra caviar (my favorite of the trio; loved the gritty complexion of the tiny beads of couscous, and how that contrasted with the pearls of caviar, as well as the crisp crunch of the vegetable wrapper).


3: La Saint-Jacques - La noix poêlée aux fregolas avec une émulsion coralline
Pan seared scallops with fregolas pastas and coral emulsion. Perfectly cooked with a fantastic texture, the scallop actually had some Asian notes to the flavor, as we seemed to detect hints of ginger and coconut milk. I wasn't sure I could grasp the coral though. In any case, it ranked right up there with the best preparations of scallop I've ever had.


4: La Langoustine - Truffée et cuite en ravioli avec un émincé de chou étuvé
Truffled langoustine ravioli with stewed cabbage. One of Robuchon's signature dishes, this did not disappoint. A meaty portion of langoustine provides a satisfying snap, a creamy, perfect balance between cooked and raw, while just the right amount of truffle adds a pungent bite. Loved the cabbage too, with had a crisp yet tender texture, with strong notes of butter.



5: La Symphonie de Truffe - En tarte friande aux oignons confits, les légumes d'hiver mitonnés au foie gras, un zéphyr avec un consommé végétal
Black truffle in a hot pastry, onions and smoked ham (I didn't particularly enjoy the truffle pieces on their own, but when paired with the tart, wow! it was like a pizzeta actually, with all the various components of ham, onion, pastry, and truffle all coming together in perfect harmony), fall vegetables in a green cabbage ravioli (a very interesting "ravioli," the truffle actually stepped aside on the palate in order to showcase the vegetables; I have a hard time describing the taste, but I liked it), light truffle cream on top of custard (surprisingly mild, this was an experiment between an ethereal preparation of truffle and a slightly bitter vegetable base; note the truffle design of the saucer). On a humorous note, when we were first served the course, I was about ready to eat the decorations on the top-left of the plate; they looked tasty!


6: L'Ormeau - Dans un court bouillon aux jeunes poireaux et gingembre
Abalone, baby leeks in a ginger bouillon. Sliced paper-thin, the abalone was soft and sikly on the palate, while conveying only a whisper of abalone flavor. Most of the taste and aroma actually came from the bouillon, which gave the dish a distinctly Asian quality. Quite satisfying, and much better than I thought it'd be.


7: L'Amadai - Cuit en écailles et servi sur une nage au yuriné
Amadai in a lily bulb broth. Another one of Robuchon's signature dishes, the sea bream was delicate in flavor and texture, but managed to transmit power and complexity at the same time. But what really set the dish apart for me was the application of the fish's firm, crispy skin, which provided an excellent foil to the amadai's fine flesh.


8: Le Turbot - Cuit sur l'arête avec étuvée de chataîgne et céleri au jus truffé
Roasted turbot "on the bone" with celery and truffle stew. I greatly enjoy the firm yet pliant texture and delicate flavor of turbot, and this was no exception. Since the fish is generally mild in taste, the application of celery, truffle, and onion added layers of complexity to the dish, which dazzled the nose as well as the tongue.


9: Le B--uf - Grillé au plat, foie gras laqué ivre de port vintage »Taylor's», macaronis au vieux comté, cristalline au poivre
Grilled Kobe beef, roasted foie gras with port, cheese macaronis, black pepper cristalline. Great piece of beef, I loved the crust, and found the meat very tender and fatty, I mean you can see the marbling in the photo! I also appreciated how the meat was allowed to stand alone for the most part, without being adulterated or oversauced. However, it didn't quite reach the level of goodness I had at CUT (to be fair, nothing has yet so far). The macaroni was delicious as well, so the weakest component of the dish was actually the foie gras, which I found merely ordinary (when pretty much everything else had been extraordinary).


10: L'Epeautre - Du pays de Sault mitonné et doré à l'or fin
Sault farrow prepared risotto style, gold leaf. This was like risotto, but "rougher." I will admit that I don't know quite what "sault farrow" is; a search on Google seems only to bring up references to this very dish. An interesting bridge to the sweet courses, but I rather liked it. If you're wondering about the gold foil, it didn't really have a taste (but it sure looked good!).


11: La Pore William - Glacée aux saveurs fruitées et confite à la crème de Cassis
William pear on a sorbet and confit in black currant. Quite a unique dessert. We have two flavors on each side, both sweet, but with the darker side much more intensely so. Meanwhile, the black currant confit provides a firm, sticky, almost jelly-like counterbalance. I found that I enjoyed the course better with everything mixed together though. Very nice.


12: Le Chocolat « show » - Coulant à l'Araguani, sorbet mentholé
Melting Araguani chocolate with a hint of peppermint. When I showed a picture of this dessert to a friend of mine, he exclaimed that it looked like something out of a video game! I personally think it looks more like an eyeball, but in any case, you have a dollop of cool sorbet sitting on top of a warm layer of decadent chocolate. And once you mix the ingredients together, the dessert tastes remarkably like mint chocolate chip ice cream!


La Crème Glacée - café, vanille, framboise
Coffee, vanilla bean, raspberry, orange tuile. Not much to say about these; they were about what you'd expect from ice cream. My favorite was the vanilla.


13: Mignardises
We started the meal with the most extravagant bread cart I'd ever seen, and we ended with the most striking candy cart I'd ever experienced. Again, it took our server a few minutes to go through it all, and again, I was trying to remember everything. I don't even recall everything we tried. I should've asked for some to go!


Take Away
Many higher caliber restaurants give you a gift to go, usually a muffin or a few cookies. But here, we each received an entire full-size fruit and nut cake! I still haven't finished eating it.


As we were the last ones in the restaurant, we got a brief glimpse into the kitchen. I like how the checkerboard motif continues from the lobby.


Chef Le Tohic was able to come out and greet us about midway through the meal.


A new per person price record is set! (French Laundry was the previous record holder)

People say that Robuchon is the best restaurant in Las Vegas. I'd say that Robuchon has a good shot of being the best restaurant in the country. Perhaps that's a bit of hyperbole, but this is certainly the best French meal I've ever had (yes, even over the Laundry). Now I'm not sure if it's the best meal I've ever had, since Urasawa is a force to be reckoned with. My number one French and my number one Japanese: now that's a tough choice, as those two happen to be my two favorite cuisines. But nevertheless, Robuchon managed to exceed my expectations, a truly rare and unexpected feat, as they were indeed lofty standards to begin with. How am I not surprised that in a city where money is apparently no object, we find this culinary tour de force of almost incomparable magnitude? If Las Vegas is a treasure trove of gastronomic delights, surely then Joël Robuchon must be the crown jewel.

Craft (Los Angeles, CA)

Craft
10100 Constellation Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90067
310.279.4180
www.craftrestaurant.com/craft_losangeles_style.html
Tue 01/08/2008, 06:00p-09:20p



Craft Los Angeles opened last year as the newest entrant into Tom Colicchio's growing restaurant empire. Colicchio, of course, is best known as the founder of the much-lauded New York eatery Gramercy Tavern; he was also a judge on TV's Top Chef.


Craft is located in Century City, sandwiched between the Century Plaza Towers (the two triangular buildings that form one of the most recognizable landmarks of the neighborhood) and the newly constructed CAA building (a landmark in the making). As such, the restaurant sees its share of bankers and agents, especially during lunch service.


One enters the restaurant near the bar/lounge area before moving on to the main dining room (pictured). Anchored on one side by a private dining room and wine cellar, the room consists of a mix of booths, tables, and benches, and holds over 100 diners.


Craft's menu is diverse and should have something for everybody. Although it changes regularly, the menu maintains a core set of items; thus diners should expect a consistent gastronomic theme, while still being provided with a wealth of new items to try on each visit. The Chef de Cuisine is Matthew Accarrino, while Catherine Schimenti takes the role of Pastry Chef. Click for larger versions.


Of course, for me, ordering à la carte is virtually verboten. But Craft doesn't offer a tasting menu, or does it? I was told by the hostess that guests wanting such a menu usually call and arrange in advance. However, I asked nicely and the kitchen was kind enough to grant me my wish. Note that courses 2 and 6 were omitted from the custom-printed menu above. Click for a larger version.


Craft presents a fair selection of wines by the glass, with nearly every conceivable varietal offered in some form or another. Click for larger versions.


I think it's reached a point where I feel odd if I don't order a mojito to start! In any case, this was a fine example, though with more of an emphasis on the lime than the sugar. They didn't hold back on the rum, that's for sure.


Three types of bread were offered: a standard wheat, olive (my favorite), and walnut-raisin. The butter was of soft texture and nicely salted.


Amuse Bouche: Butternut Squash Soup
Serrano Ham, Black Truffle. This actually reminded me a lot of the butternut squash soup I had at Veritas. As with Veritas, the squash proved subtle and silky, while the truffle and ham added some stronger complementing notes.



1: Sashimi Trio
Prosecco Brut, Desiderio Jeio, Bisol, NV, Valdobbiadene
From left to right, we have: Japanese Hamachi & Apple Cider (the pairing of apple cider fell flat for me, while the hamachi itself was a bit dull), Albacore Tuna & Pineapple (I was a bit skeptical of the pineapple, but it worked; great texture on the albacore; my clear favorite), and Bigeye Tuna & Horseradish (perhaps I've just been spoiled with toro, but I thought the tuna lacked sufficient fattiness and flavor; this was helped by the horseradish however). I'm a big fan of having a sparkler with sushi/sashimi, and the Prosecco worked brilliantly here. It's light citrus fruit notes paired beautifully with the various fishes and their accoutrements.


2: Duck Egg
White Truffle, Toasted Brioche. The egg, by itself, was rather nondescript and pretty much indistinguishable from a chicken egg to me, though the truffle did add a nice pungency to the dish. The brioche, on the other hand, was superb. I don't think I've ever had a preparation so rich and flavorful; it was a pleasure using it to mop up the runny bits of egg.


3: Florida Frogs Legs, Sweetbreads
Riesling, Zilliken, Forstmeister Geltz, 2004, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Asian Pear, Calamondin Orange, Cipollini Onion. At first, I actually had some difficulty visually discerning the frog from the sweetbreads (the frog's legs are the larger pieces). Taste-wise however, the difference was clear. The frog's legs were light, tender, and although I hate to be clichéd, they did taste a bit like chicken. Meanwhile, the sweetbreads had the mildly salty flavor and slightly crispy texture that I've come to know and love. This was one of the best dishes of the night for me. I did enjoy the paired Riesling, which had classic aromas and flavors of stone fruit and apple, while also projecting subtle mineral notes. The wine was light and refreshing, with a medium-length, balanced finish.


4: Oxtail Pyramids & Lucques Olive
Syrah, Qupé, 2005, Central Coast
Thick pasta shells concealed superbly flavored, super-tender morsels of oxtail, while the olive added a stark contrast. I imagine that the meat was probably braised or otherwise slow-cooked, to attain this kind of taste and texture. This was one of my favorites of the night. As for the Syrah, it was typical for the varietal, with an earthy, strong nose of meat and berry, wrapped around a core of black fruit and a bit of leather. It was a bit tannic but played well with the oxtail. As a side note, Qupé also seems to be popular at Michael Mina restaurants, such as the original in San Francisco, as well as Stonehill Tavern in Dana Point.


5: Petrale Sole & Pomegranate
Chardonnay, Mâcon-Villages, Vieilles Vignes, Henri Perrusset, 2004, Mâcon
Classic sole taste and texture here, which meant the dish could've gone with fewer trappings, though the pomegranate did add a tangy twist to the fish. I'm not a huge fan of Chardonnay, especially when done in the Burgundian style, but I found the Henri Perrusset quite drinkable, with appealing honey and floral aromas, leading to similar notes on the palate. It worked with the sole and especially the pomegranate accompaniment.


6: Unknown Fish
Unfortunately, the menu I received at the end of the meal was missing two items, and this was one of them (I was able to figure out the duck egg above). Perhaps it was the alcohol, but I cannot for the life of me remember what this dish was. I suspect this might have been the Scottish Salmon & Cucumber from the menu, but I can't be certain. The fish's texture was firm, not flaky, and not oily, while the sauce it was covered in had an almost minty, yet salty flavor to it. Overall quite tasty. This shall forever remain a mystery.


7: Diver Sea Scallops & Vermouth Butter
Albariño, Bodegas Gran Vinum, Nessa, 2006, Rías Baixas
Piquillo Pepper, Potato Cake. This was one of the best courses of the night for me. The scallop was perfectly cooked, with a fresh, briny flavor that stood by itself, while also working with the other elements of the dish. I loved the potato as well. The Albariño was light in weight, with slightly spicy and herbaceous notes, leading to a clean finish.


8: Niman Ranch Pork Cheeks & Blood Orange Gremolata
I almost never order pork at a restaurant (along with chicken), perhaps because the pork I usually have is generally tough and lacking in flavor. I'm glad to report that was not the case here. The meat itself was indeed very savory, while texture-wise, I was able to cut it using only my fork. The key was that pork cheek is a rich, fatty, succulent cut that originates, not surprisingly, from the pig's cheek; it's also typically braised, which definitely helps with tenderness.


9: Sonoma Lamb Saddle
Grenache Blend, Kunin, Pape Star, 2006, Central Coast
The saddle of lamb is another name for the lamb loin, which is where the most tender and expensive cuts of lamb come from, such as loin chops and loin roasts. With that said, this was quite unlike any lamb chop I've had before, but unfortunately not in a positive way, as I thought the meat wasn't as tender or as succulent as I'm used to. The Kunin was soft and silky, with pronounced berry, meaty, and spicebox notes, leading to a lingering finish; it proved a capable complement to the lamb.


10: Assortment of Cheese
Tokaji Aszú, 5 Puttonyos, Royal Tokaji, 2000, Hungary
Cow, Goat, Sheep's Milk, with appropriate accompaninents. A nice presentation of fromage to transition into dessert; my favorite was the cheese in the foreground (unfortunately I don't recall the name). I used to be quite wary of cheese courses, but now they've become something expected, or desired actually. There is truly a lot you can do with cheese. Paired here was the omnipresent Tokaji Aszú. Rich and viscous, the Tokaji presents hints of stone fruit, citrus, and honey on the nose, while becoming heavier and more complex on the midpalate and finish.


11: Apple Tart Tatin
Sour Apple Gelee, Red Apple Sorbet. The warm apple tart itself was good but a bit pedestrian, while I did quite enjoy the sour and refreshing nature of the apple sorbet. Unfortunately, I forget what exactly the item in the middle of the dish is.


12: Lavender Panna Cotta
Persimmon Marmalade, Orange Nuage. This was sort of a mini-dessert, with the tart marmalade providing a nice contrast layer between the panna cotta. A tasty bite or two.


13: Glazed Donuts
Port, Fonseca, Bin No. 27
Golden Quince Jam, Coffee Custard, Chocolate Pudding. This glazed dougnut was a step above what you'd get at your local Winchell's and was a nice way to end the meal. It was further enhanced by the included complements; I especially appreciated the quince jam. It seems that one of the current trends in fine dining is a reversion to "simpler" dessert items such as doughnuts, churros, or cookies. Are we diners are just tired of contrived, overly complex dishes? Time will tell how long this trend lasts. The Port was nice enough, perhaps lacking the weight of a good vintage port, but still presenting rich, ripe notes of berry and spices. The dessert itself was fairly light, so the port worked.


Mignardises
I was presented with a selection of five hand-crafted chocolates at the conclusion of the meal. My server described each one, but unfortunately all I remember is that one contained passion fruit. Nevertheless, all were quite good. Also, along with the check came another plate, this time with cream puffs and another item I can't recall.


Take Away
This was a delicious chocolate muffin, which I had for breakfast a few days later.


Chef Accarrino came out at the end of the night to personally thank me.

The tasting was a rather large amount of food, and by the end of the meal, I was struggling to get each bite down. This was quite literally the fullest I'd been since French Laundry. Coming in after eating a large lunch certainly didn't help things either. As a result, I think that although I did enjoy the meal, I didn't enjoy it as much as I could have had I come in with a decent appetite. The tasting menu did what was intended; it gave me a taste of the menu. But next time I'm back, I may just order à la carte!

Asanebo (Studio City, CA)

Asanebo
11941 Ventura Blvd, Studio City, CA 91604
818.760.3348
http://www.yelp.com/biz/asanebo-studio-city (Yelp listing, restaurant has no web site)
Thu 01/03/2008, 08:15p-10:35p



The small stretch of Ventura Boulevard near Asanebo is literally teeming with Japanese restaurants: Ahi, Teru, Katsuya, Tama, Kazu, Dan, even the infamous Nozawa is there. One thing that sets Asanebo apart, though, is that it is the sole eatery in the area that has received a coveted Michelin star (others in Los Angeles are Matsuhisa, Mori, and of course, Urasawa).


Asanebo's rather dingy strip mall setting definitely belies its pedigree. Interestingly enough, parking in the smallish lot is valet only. It did seem a bit pretentious though, especially when my car was parked 15 feet from the door. Both my dining companion and I noted the abundance of Mercs and Bimmers present.


The decor is fairly typical for a Southern California sushi joint: lots of light wood, simple, straightforward, yet comfy and cozy. We were seated in the four-top closest to the window. Partially hidden by the hostess stand, it gave us some modicum of privacy.


Asanebo offers plenty of à la carte selections, but naturally, we were here for the omakase. Three price levels are offered, with what we had, option "C," being the most luxurious. The menu was originally written in Japanese, but the hostess was kind enough to translate for us. Click for larger version.


1: Sesame Tofu
This was unlike any tofu I've ever had before. Very thick and dense, it had a flavor note that we couldn't exactly identify; we only later found out that it was sesame. When eaten by itself, I found the sesame a bit too dominating, and needed to temper it a bit by adding soy sauce. Both the radish and wasabi also proved to be very helpful accoutrements.


2: Lobster Sashimi with Black Truffle
I don't think I've ever had lobster prepared like this before, and I've been missing out! The sashimi had a nice, crisp bite to it, and a slightly sweet, yet fresh taste. The ponzu added to the experience, but didn't overpower; the black truffle was relatively mild by comparison. The course also came with what I believe was a peeled cherry tomato. The lack of skin gave the tomato a very intriguing mouthfeel, but what was more impressive was the burst of flavor that exploded in my mouth when I bit down; it was strangely impressive.


3: Hama Hama Oyster with Sweet Vinegar and Onion
Hama Hamas are harvested from Hamma Hamma River in Washington. Three rather large examples were presented on the plate here, along with a sweet, tart mixture of what I believe were onions. Now normally I prefer smaller oysters such as Kumamoto's for their crisper flavor, so I was pleasantly surprised by the Hama Hamas and their briny, mild flavor and firm texture.


4: Spinach Salad with Crab
The spinach leaves were prepared in such a way that gave them a slightly crispy texture. Both my dining companion and I thought that the crabmeat could've have been a bit more tart (possibly by the addition of lemon juice), which I think would've better complemented the spinach's slight bitterness.


5: Daikon with Beef Sauce
Now this was interesting. We have a large cylinder of daikon (white radish) covered in a meat sauce. Our server told us the meat was "better than Kobe beef," but that claim proved to be hard to ascertain, given that we thought the preparation was akin to that of a Sloppy Joe. It was fairly tasty though, which definitely helped the dish, given the daikon's very mild flavor.


6: Grilled King Crab Leg
Did you know that the king crab isn't technically a crab? Mind blowing I know. In any case, this was the quintessential king crab leg, with a soft, sweet, and mildly briny flesh that easily picked away from the shell.


7: Seared Toro
I'm a huge fan of toro, but rarely have the opportunity to have it cooked. In fact, for me, not much compares to a good toro nigiri. With that said, this was a completely different experience than having it raw. Upon biting down on a piece, there was a near explosion of oil in the mouth. I don't think I've ever had fish that was so rich and unctuous! This was my dining companion's favorite course of the night, and one of mine as well, though I must say that I still prefer toro raw or lightly seared.


8: Sushi
From left to right, we have: whitefish (halibut I believe, clean, mild, fresh, exactly what I'd expect), lobster (my first time with lobster nigiri, similar to the sashimi above), hamachi (a textbook yellowtail), chu-toro (very nice, I could've mistaken this for o-toro), and uni (I'm not usually a huge fan of uni, but this was quite pleasant, with a great texture). Though all five pieces of nigiri were quite delicious, I would've liked to have sampled a few more varieties, such as sweet shrimp or salmon.


9: Lobster Miso Soup
This was a hearty preparation of the classic miso soup. It could've stood well enough on its own, so the lobster was a nice but unnecessary addition, one which added some interesting flavor notes that you don't typically find in miso soup. Unfortunately there wasn't too much meat on the lobster to be picked off.


10a: Banana Crepe
Whipped Cream, Strawberries, Caramel Sauce. For the dessert course, we had a choice among the items on the normal à la carte menu, and this was my dining companion's choice. I did have a few bites however, and I must say that this was one of the better crepes I've had, not too heavy, yet still flavorful and satisfying.


10b: Hot Chocolate Cake
Vanilla Ice Cream, Strawberries, Blueberries. This was my selection. It seems like nearly every restaurant has some sort of version of a hot chocolate cake. This example was quite dense, not too sweet, and played well enough with the vanilla ice cream. Tasty, but nothing special.

Based off this experience, I believe Asanebo can indeed stand out from the myriad of Japanese restaurants in Los Angeles. In terms of service, some of the courses were indeed brought out too quickly, but other than that faux pas, service was expedient and friendly. Also, I sensed a great commitment to quality, with an appreciation for the sanctity of ingredients and purity of preparation. I just wished there was more emphasis on sushi or sashimi. So next time I'm here, I'd probably eschew omakase and order off the menu.