Sushi Sasabune (Los Angeles, CA)

Sushi Sasabune
12400 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
310.820.3596
www.yelp.com/biz/sushi-sasabune-west-los-angeles (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Fri 05/30/2008, 05:30p-07:35p



Ah Sasabune, arguably LA's most famous sushi restaurant. I had heard a lot of good things about the place, though Sasabune certainly has its share of detractors (most complaints seem to center around oversaucing and warm rice), and had always wanted to get around to trying it.


Nestled on the bottom floor of an office building, the exterior is rather unremarkable.


Upon entering, you receive a stern warning: no "Americanized" sushi here! Owner Nobi Kusuhara is a disciple of the Nozawa (aka "the sushi Nazi") school of sushi, so this is to be expected.


The space used to house a Todai (shudder), so unfortunately, the decor leaves much to be desired. The place is large, and thus feels a bit cavernous and cold.


The best place is still at the bar, in front of Nobi-san.


Sasabune has its own customized wet naps and chopsticks. Cute.


The sushi menu. Sasabune has a nice selection of fish at surprisingly reasonable prices. Some of the items such as sardine and ono aren't seen offered at many restaurants. Click for a larger version.


I brought a bottle of 1990 Krug Brut Champagne to drink with the meal. It was quite intense, with mild citrus flavors on the nose leading to mass amounts of toast and yeast on a long, lingering finish. It was my most intense Champagne experience ever. On a side note, the waitress holding the bottle is also a waitress at Urasawa (where I'd been the previous night). She mentioned to me she had two jobs, but I didn't know the other was here! Small world eh?


Tairagai Sashimi
This was my first experience with pen shell, a large saltwater clam. It was very crisp and fresh tasting, with a texture reminiscent of a cross between awabi, mirugai, and hotate. The taste itself was quite mild, so it was served with Hawaiian salt and yuzu kosho (yuzu, chili pepper, salt), but I thought the clam easily stood on its own.


Awabi Sashimi
The flesh had a great texture near the center but the edges were very tough and crunchy. The flavor was mild, with a slight sweetness to it. Nice, though not as strong as I've had at Go's Mart. While we were eating, Nobi-san also told us about the various types of abalone available: black, white, red, and pink. What we had was red, the largest and most common variety. I believe he also said that the pink's were the best, though they're mildly endangered and thus illegal to harvest.


Binnagamaguro Sashimi
Albacore in ponzu sauce, with scallions. I didn't find the ponzu too obtrusive here, but I understand how others could. This fish's flavor didn't exactly take center stage, but nevertheless, I thought the dish was still rather tasty.


Kumamoto Kaki
Ever since having them at Water Grill, Kumamotos have been my favorite type of oyster. These did not disappoint. The oysters' clean, crisp taste was further heightened by the citrusy sauce and momiji oroshi. Excellent.


Assorted Sashimi
The sashimi here were: amaebi (a rather unusual consistency, it was crisper than what I expected, but not creamy), hamachi (perhaps a bit less fatty than usual), maguro (very lean, had a hard time discerning much flavor here), sawara (milder than the aji), aji (quite fishy on its own but very good when sauced), and toro (not particularly fatty or oily).


Toro / Maguro
These two pieces of tuna were very similar to the sashimi slices above. The toro was rather unspectacular. The maguro was extremely mild, and thus really needed the soy sauce to draw out the flavors.


Tai / Hirame
The snapper, served with a touch of yuzu kosho, was quite delicious, and I appreciated the bit of skin left on the fish. I also enjoyed the hirame, topped with ponzu, scallion, and momiji oroshi; the garnishes piqued the palate and really drew out the subtle flavors of the whitefish.


Kinmeidai / Sake
Kinmeidai is something I may not have had before; it's known as "golden eye snapper." Here, it came topped with ponzu, scallion, and what I think is grated ginger. Compared to regular tai, I thought it was perhaps a touch sweeter, and with a softer texture. Very nice. The salmon here came with sesame seeds and battera kombu (pickled kelp). The fish could've stood on its own, but I did like the tartness and texture that the kelp added.


Hotate / Mirugai
The scallop, topped with a bit of yuzu kosho, displayed typical, pleasing scallop taste and consistency. It sort of reminded me of the scallop I had at Wakasan. Texture-wise, the geoduck was quite similar to the version I had at Urasawa the night earlier; the flavor, however, was not as pronounced and the shiso tended to dominate.


Saba / Sawara
Like the salmon, the mackerel came topped with sesame and battera kombu; however, it also had a slice of shiso inserted between the fish and the rice. These accoutrements did a fine job of tempering the oiler, rougher taste of this Norwegian mackerel. We also had Spanish mackerel, topped with scallion. This was a fine, prototypical example of the fish, and was quite tasty.


Ikura / Uni
Egg with egg. I thought the salmon roe was creamier than usual, with less pop and brininess than typically found. The uni, from Santa Barbara I believe, had nice texture and a clean, mild taste that gave just hints of the ocean.


Lobster in Miso Sauce
According to Nobi-san, this was Sasabune's "answer to French Laundry." Actually, I think I prefer it to the lobster I had there. The consistency was just right, while the sauce's sweetness highlighted the lobster's natural flavor. We shared this amongst five people, but I would've liked to have had the whole thing!


Engawa / Ika
Engawa is actually halibut fin muscle. It's pretty difficult to find and I think I've only had it once before, at the old Abe on Newport peninsula. The flesh was very tough and chewy, which was expected since the muscle is a very active part of the fish. The squid was served with shiso, which turned out to be the dominant flavor here. Its texture was more crunchy than creamy.


Squid Stuffed with Blue Crab
Texture-wise, there was a clear contrast between the chewy squid and the soft crab. It was quite interesting and something that I'd never really had before. In terms of taste, the squid itself didn't have much of it, so the crab clearly dominated. The addition of sesame actually added a nice flavor element.


Ankimo
Monkfish liver, topped with sesame, momiji oroshi, and scallion, came served in two sauces, one miso and one ponzu. I preferred the miso, as the ponzu was a bit too tart for the mild flavor of the liver. I would've liked a firmer consistency to the ankimo though.


Aoyagi
Orange clam. Crisp and subtle, with an almost gritty texture. It came sprinkled with a touch of salt to draw out the natural flavor.


Tamago
An interesting consistency, wet and dense, but a touch too sweet for me.


Salmon Skin Roll
The carrots added a crisp texture contrast, while the scallion and hanakatsuo presented subtle flavor complements. Nice.


Blue Crab
One of Sasabune's signature dishes is the blue crab hand roll. This is the crab, minus the rice and nori; it was also used in the squid roll above. It was an extremely pure and intense expression, and really captured the essence of blue crab. But going back to the hand roll, I had an identical dish at Sushi Wasabi in Tustin. It turns out that the owner, Aoyagi-san, used to work with with Nobi-san. That certainly explains the similarity in the food, so if you like Sasabune, give Sushi Wasabi a shot if you're down in Orange County.

To sum things up, I didn't have a problem with the sauces or the warm rice. Even the pre-cut fish wasn't that big a deal. And for the most part, the quality of food is right up there. In fact, I had some fantastic dishes. It's the loss of intimacy and personal interaction that irks me. We were fortunate enough to be sitting in front of Nobi-san, and had a very pleasant rapport with him; he seems like a genuinely good guy. This interaction, I think, is a key part of the experience, and unfortunately that's something most of Sasabune's customers just simply can't partake in.

Urasawa (Beverly Hills, CA) [2]

Urasawa
218 N Rodeo Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.247.8939
www.gayot.com/restaurants/features/urasawa.html (review, restaurant has no web site)
Thu 05/29/2008, 07:10p-11:35p



This was actually my second visit to Urasawa. For the report from my first visit, please click here.

The first thing you'll notice about Urasawa is that the place is a bit secretive; it's almost as if you have to be "in the know" to go.


As you exit your vehicle in the underground parking garage off Dayton Way, you see three signs advertising the trio of eateries at Two Rodeo, while a small placard next to the elevator directs you to the second level. And yes, they're serious about the "By Reservation Only;" a couple of women who tried to walk in during our last meal were turned away.


Once in the elevator, you notice how Urasawa occupies the entire second level, above a myriad of prestigious retailers. Once the elevator door behind you opens, another placard points you in the right direction (this was absent on our last visit and we actually went the wrong way!).


The green walls may be a bit disconcerting (hopefully they'll be gone in the upcoming remodel of the restaurant). But tread on, and you'll eventually come to the entrance. Things begin to look up.


An L-shaped bar greets diners. It seats three on one side and six on another. For the best view, try to snag a corner seat, that is, unless you want a view of Urasawa-san's case of goodies.


There is also a lone table of four, while is rarely occupied. To get the full Urasawa experience, sitting at the bar is the only way to go. Flower selection and arrangements are all done personally by Urasawa-san.


An apprentice almost always works alongside Urasawa-san (in fact, Urasawa-san was in the same spot when Masa Takayama ran the old Ginza Sushi-Ko). On our last visit, it was a young man named Sung. When we inquired about his whereabouts, we were told that he was sent to work at French Laundry! The new apprentice is Urasawa-san's brother-in-law, Ken.


We wanted to start the meal with some sake. It was at Urasawa where we first had Kubota Manjyu, so we thought it fitting to return to our old friend. Interestingly enough, we were provided red kiriko glasses instead of blue like last time. When I inquired as to why, we were told that they always serve Kubota in red-colored glasses.


Another reason we went with Kubota was that we were completely unfamiliar with most the other selections. And amazingly, Kubota was actually one of lower priced sakes on the menu. Click for a larger version.


1. Junsai - Called "water shield" in English, junsai is a summer delicacy in Japan. The plant is a member of the water lily family, and grows in clusters sometimes large enough to cover large bodies of water, hence the name. The most prized part of junsai is the slippery, gelatinous layer that covers young sprouts. Here, it was mixed with summer vegetables, shrimp, vinegar, scallions, and gold flake and was taken as a shot. The junsai had a slimy, slick texture that made the dish slide easily down my throat. Taste-wise, I was reminded of bitter vegetables, eventually giving way to a sweet brininess.


2. Nasu - Japanese eggplant from Osaka. The nasu had a softer, spongier texture than I expected from eggplant. Furthermore, it had a slightly sweet taste, which is in contrast to the bitterness I thought it would have. We were instructed to dip it in soy, and the eggplant gladly soaked up the sauce.


3. Yamaimo Nikogori - "Nikogori" refers to gelatins extracted from cooked fish. Here, it was prepared with grated yamaimo mountain potato, shiroebi from Toyama, uni, shiso, and topped with wasabi and gold. The yamaimo, in concert with the uni, gave the dish a soft, mucilaginous texture that proved interesting in the mouth. The flavor was light on uni, but instead, the shrimp came to the fore first, which then led to hints of shiso on the lingering finish. Very complex.


4. Hotaruika - From Toyama, with ginger and soy. We were told to eat these in one bite and chase with sake. Upon chewing, I experienced a burst of brininess in my mouth, which then turned into bitterness. Once sake was added, the strong flavor of the squid was tempered, giving way to a slight sweetness.


At this point, the sake was mostly gone and we decided to pop the Champagne, just in time for the sashimi! Our first selection was a magnum of 1999 Moët & Chandon Dom Perignon Brut. It was a prototypical example of Dom: sharp, with mineral and citrus flavors dominating over a base of toast. The Dom Perignon was followed up by a bottle of 2000 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut. The Cristal was nuttier and fruitier on the nose compared to the Dom, and was considerably sweeter on the palate; overall I preferred it. Naturally, we also gave Urasawa-san a glass. As a side note, Urasawa-san is quite the wine lover himself; I've heard he enjoys big name reds and his ears definitely perked up when we were talking about my DRC!


Here, Urasawa-san serves the sashimi course, presented in a hand-carved block of ice.


5. Sashimi - Toro from Spain, tai from Kyushu, and buri from Toyama, garnished with grated white daikon, grated green daikon, cucumber flower, seaweed, red cabbage, and wasabi. The toro was a fairly light example, with the richness and oiliness only coming to the forefront upon mastication. Meanwhile, the tai was very mild, and I actually preferred it sans soy, to really let the flavor of the fish stand out; it was my favorite of the triplet. The buri was extremely clean and crisp, and less fatty than your typical hamachi.


6. Yamaimo "Chawanmushi" - There is a proper term for this dish, but unfortunately I don't remember it. In any case, the steamed yamaimo here was served with uni, tai, ebi, eel, and gingko, all topped once again with gold. We were told to mix everything together before consuming. Another very complex dish, the potentially dominant flavor of uni was tempered by the yamaimo, which resulted in a harmonious interplay of flavors and textures. One of the stronger dishes of the night.


7. Ebi Tempura - A tempura of shrimp, along with uni, shiso, and black truffle. I ate one piece plain and one bathed in tentsuyu sauce and daikon oroshi. Perhaps the best tempura I've ever had, there was a clear base of shrimp, while the shiso and uni elevated the dish. I would've liked the truffle essence to have been stronger however.




8. Seared Toro - Before this dish was served, napkins were laid on the bar to protect the surface from the splattering of oil from the fish. This was a fitting precaution, as an intense, rich, oily essence of toro filled the air as soon as the fish was placed on the hot stone. Afterwards, we could see how the oil had stained the Cypress; there was a clean line between the bare wood and the napkin-covered portion. This was perhaps the oiliest example of toro I've ever eaten, so fatty, so unctuous, so melt-in-your-mouth! This literally disintegrated in my mouth; and the slightly charred surface made it even better. A highlight of the night.


Here we see Urasawa-san prepping the still live and moving amaebi for the next course.




9. Shabu Shabu - Expectations were high, as this shabu shabu was one of our favorite courses on our last visit. This time, the ingredients were the amaebi from above, hotate, Wagyu beef from Hokkaido, and foie gras. The various items were actually cooked for us. First in was the foie, since it would take the longest to cook. The shrimp went in next, and was only submerged for a few seconds; the resultant flesh was perfectly cooked and delicious. Next, the beef and scallop went in together for a brief dip. Again, although both could've been eaten raw, cooking them ever so slightly made them arguably even better. Finally, it was time for the foie gras to come out. The resultant liver had a slightly rubbery texture and incredibly mild flavor that was completely unlike any other foie I'd ever eaten. It was fantastic, along with the rest of the course.


10. Kombu Broth - After we finished, we all drank the resulting kombu (kelp) broth. It was delectable and quite heartwarming, though rather hot.


At this point, the familiar wooden platforms were brought out, along with some gari (ginger pickled in sugar and vinegar; note that it lacks the artificial pink color found in most gari). This meant it was time for the gauntlet of sushi to begin!


VIDEO: See the master in action. Click on the photo above for a video clip of Urasawa-san constructing toro nigiri. A kevinEats first!


11. Toro - Very, very nice. This was a quintessential example of toro, smooth, rich, and oily (but not as much as the seared toro above). It is rather pointless at these rarified levels, but if pressed, I will still have to give a slight edge to the $30/piece toro at Kyubey however.


12. Seared Toro - The slight cooking seemed to tenderize the meat even more. Brushed with soy and yuzu, the meat just breaks apart on your tongue. Excellent.


13. Buri - Based on looks alone, I initially mistook this wild yellowtail for kanpachi. I actually preferred this preparation to the sashimi above. This was so much more refined than the yellowtail you typically find at sushi restaurants in the US (see I Love Sushi).


14. Tai - Compared to the sashimi version above, this had a tougher, crisper texture, which some preferred. The addition of yuzu elevated the fish to another level. Delicious.


15. Aji - Spanish mackerel from Kyushu. All of the signature mackerel flavor was here, but without any harsh fishiness that can often time overpower the fish. I'd say this was at least comparable in taste to the famed Seki aji, which I had at Go's Mart.


16. Shiitake - On my last visit, I was surprised by the sight of shiitake nigiri, but was glad to see it here again. This preparation really brings out the character of shiitake, its earthiness, its smokiness, and even a bit of bitterness. Urasawa is the only restaurant I've seen attempt something like this.


17. Uni - From Santa Barbara. I was once told that good uni should look like a cat's tongue. If that's true, then this was some really good uni! Actually, it was just really good anyway. It's also interesting to note that the uni was not served in the typical gunkan-maki style (wrapped in nori).


18. Shima Aji - Striped jack or yellowjack. Wonderful. So subtle, yet so complex, it's almost indescribable. If pressed, I might have to say that this was the strongest fish of the night, significantly better than the version I had at Kyubey.


19. Ika - Ika itself doesn't have a strong flavor, so the addition of salt and yuzu really added a nice kick to an otherwise monolithic taste. Perfect consistency too, firm, yet giving way to a rich creaminess.


20. Kohada - Gizzard shad with yuzu, wasabi, and soy. Kohada is related to mackerel, and thus has a somewhat reminiscent flavor. Compared to the aji, it was milder in flavor yet oilier. Nice.


21. Maguro - A fine example of standard tuna, with an absolutely beautiful ruby color. This was more flavorful than most, but even so, was overshadowed by some of the bolder fishes here. Perhaps we should've eaten this before the toro.


22. Mirugai - This was geoduck with wasabi, soy, and yuzu. A very firm texture gave way to an intensely briny flavor backed by a subtle sweetness.


23. Awabi - Like the mirugai above, this was quite firm, but not as crisp. Nice, but the awabi I had at Go's Mart is still the strongest to date.


24. Sayori - Unfortunately, Urasawa-san didn't twist the needlefish into an intricate design like he did on our last visit. Nevertheless, the fish was still superb. For me, this was one of the top pieces of nigiri.


25. Minced Aji - This was chopped Spanish mackerel mixed with shiso, Kyoto miso, ginger, and scallion. I thought this was fantastic, with the aji taste yielding to a mild sweetness, which was then overcome by the tang of scallion. I can't imagine many other places other than Urasawa attempting this.


26. Amaebi - Sweet shrimp garnished with shrimp brain and soy sauce. As I chewed, an initially crisp texture turned into something much creamier, while the brains gave the shrimp a slightly metallic twist on top of a prototypical sweetness.


27. Wagyu - Sushi made from the same Hokkaido beef above, topped with yuzu and soy. Urasawa-san smoked the beef for about 10 seconds before serving. One of my dining companions exclaimed that he wanted to eat "a big platter" of the stuff! I'd tend to agree. Beef doesn't get much better than this.


28. Hotate - Scallop topped with yuzu and a sauce Urasawa-san jokingly referred to as "chocolate sauce." (I almost believed him too!) The yuzu gave the scallop a nice tartness that added a contrast to the otherwise mild flesh.


29. Anago - Sea eel garnished with the same sauce used in the hotate above. Also added was yuzu and kinome (leaves of Szechwan pepper). Compared to the unagi we typically get, this was leaner, with a slightly cleaner flavor. In the right photo, we can see Urasawa-san cooking the eel on skewers.


30. Tamago - Unlike most versions, the tamago here was closer to a sponge cake than egg. Quite sweet and dense. Nice, but my favorite tamago is still at Natori.


31. Grapefruit Geleé - With goji berry, gold leaf, and more grapefruit. A great palate cleanser, the geleé itself was quite good, but eating it along with the grapefruit at the bottom made it even better. This dessert really gave me a taste of the true essence of grapefruit. Absolutely lovely.


32. Goma Aisu Kurimu - I'm generally not a huge fan of sesame ice cream, but this was something else. The sesame flavor was strong, but didn't overpower. Eating it with the red bean and sesame seeds resulted in a very mature flavor that was simply marvellous.


33. Matcha - Matcha is a powdered green tea often used in Japanese tea ceremonies. In fact, drinking this reminded me of such a ceremony I participated in on a trip to Japan. The tea itself was a bit gritty, with a lean bitterness.


34. Hojicha - A roasted green tea, hojicha is less astringent due to the loss of catechin in the roasting process. I thought this was excellent, and must have drank about four cups. One of my dining companions, who normally doesn't drink tea, drank eight! Our cups kept getting refilled as we chatted with Urasawa-san at the conclusion of our meal.


Not counting the Romanée-Conti induced shocker at Napa Rose, this was the highest bill we'd ever encountered. However, the record for highest per person still rests with Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas (on a side note, Urasawa-san mentioned that, due to sky-high food costs, Joël Robuchon was in fact losing about $1 million a year!).


At the end of the night, we took a group photo to mark this very special occasion.

As an interesting side note, I was discussing my recent trip to Japan and mentioned that I'd visited Kyoto. Urasawa-san asked me if I went to any restaurants there, and of course, I responded with Kaji. Well, it turns out that Urasawa-san actually knows Kaji-san! They once worked together at a restaurant in Kyoto. Small world!

Quite simply, this was one of those "epic" meals that I occasionally get to enjoy. Actually, it was much more than a meal; it was an experience like no other. Where else can you find a chef that incorporates so much of himself into each dish he creates? The pride, effort, and passion Urasawa-san puts in his food, is palpable. When we asked about opening another restaurant, Urasawa-san responded that he would never do so. Quality couldn't possibly be maintained, and for him, it's the quality, the caliber of the food that is king. Serving ten people a night is enough for him, and he hopes to do so for another 25 years. Truly, dining here is about more than the food, it's about experiencing the very essence of one chef's livelihood. Coming into this meal, I was afraid I'd be let down, since the bar was set so high. I'm happy to report that that wasn't the case; Urasawa-san's brilliance still shined through and true: Hiro's still got it!

Gordon Ramsay at The London (West Hollywood, CA)

Gordon Ramsay at The London
1020 N San Vicente Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
310.358.7788
www.gordonramsay.com/gratthelondonwh/
Tue 05/27/2008, 08:05p-12:35a



Opening night at Gordon Ramsay, and the man, the legend himself isn't even here. Nor is the winner of Ramsay's Hell's Kitchen TV series. In fact, not many people at all are here, no press, not many customers; in fact, the staff seems to outnumber everyone else. Where's the fanfare, the pomp, the circumstance? If they were aiming for a soft opening, they certainly met that mark.


As the name suggests, Gordon Ramsay at The London is located in the new London West Hollywood. Formerly known as the Bel Age, the hotel is located just steps from the hustle and bustle of the Sunset Strip. Although the building isn't much to look at from outside, things do get better as you approach the main entrance.


The black and white theme continues in the lobby.


The restaurant is fairly inconspicuous, and in fact, it took us a few minutes to find the place.


Two main dining rooms seat around 110 guests in total. These rooms flank a bar and lounge area. The decor is dim, chic, almost lounge-ish in fact, with large, comfy sofas and chairs. I could see it as a good place to get drinks.


Also available are five private dining rooms, seating up to ten guests each (right photo).


I'd describe the cuisine as contemporary French with Asian and Californian twists. Compared to the London or even New York menu, the food here is definitely less complex, more laid back. Apparently, there is also a sushi menu, but we weren't able to locate it on this particular night. Ordering can either be done à la carte or via the Chef's Menu. If going à la carte, our server recommended 3-4 courses per person. Given the small size of each dish, I can't imagine how anyone would be full on only 3-4 items. We went with the Chef's Menu, but disappointingly, the courses were straight from the standard menu. In hindsight, we should've ordered one of every item on the menu. Click for larger versions.


Here we see the dessert menu, with a number of fairly interesting selections. Click for a larger version.


Naturally, I wanted to start with a mojito, but was told that the restaurant was fresh out of mint. I ordered a Cuba Libre instead (the last time I did this was at Patina). My dining companion ordered a cucumber martini, which was made from Square One Cucumber Vodka (strong nose of cucumber, leading to more cucumber on the palate initially, before finishing with a strong alcoholic burn). For water, we were asked if we'd like still or sparkling (tap was not mentioned as an option), and choosing still, received a pricey bottle of Waiwera water from New Zealand.


White baguettes were the only type of bread on offer. The bread was tasty enough, but I would've liked more variety. The butter was quite rich, and, when eaten with the baguette, reminded me of buttered popcorn.


1: Pacific yellow fin tuna with pickled daikon, crab beignets, sesame soy dressing
Junmai Ginjo Sake, Yuki No Bosha
The tuna was quite delicious, clean in taste, lean in texture, and went beautifully with the tiny (too tiny) crab beignet, lime-marinated cucumber, and micro-greens. Wrapping a piece in the soy- and balsamic-marinated daikon strip also produced a wonderful result. The paired sake had a super-intense nose of stone fruit and strawberries; the flavors continued on the palate, and the sake had a very heavy weight and viscous mouthfeel. Quite different and much sweeter than most other sakes I've had.


Supplement: Apple-cured duck breast and crispy tongue, foie gras with amaranth
Riesling, Hugel et Fils, Alsace, France, 2005
This was my first time with duck tongue, and it was the best part of the dish. The foie gras terrine was a fine example, and the addition of amaranth grain added a nice textural contrast. Its sweetness linked well with the duck meat, which otherwise was nothing special. The Riesling was fairly dry, crisp, with a heavier weight than I expected; a simple wine.


Supplement: Wild asparagus risotto with chive flowers
Pinot Gris, Lemelson Tikka's Run, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2006
Laced with Mascarpone and Parmesan, the risotto was perhaps the cheesiest example I'd ever had (compared to, let's say, Valentino). The asparagus and chive were excellent complements that provided a respite from the richness of the risotto. This was my favorite dish of the night, something I could just eat a big bowl of and be satisfied!


Supplement: Swordfish carpaccio with heart of palm, grapefruit and yuzu vinaigrette
Sauvignon Blanc, Bernardus, Monterey, California, 2006
This was my first time having swordfish in a carpaccio style. I found that the fish actually had a very mild taste on its own. Thus, it was overpowered flavor-wise by the citrus and consistency-wise by the heart of palm, resulting in a one-dimensional dish. I really wanted the fish itself to come more to the forefront.


2: Burrata mozzarella with heirloom tomatoes, cape gooseberries, basil pesto
Bourgogne Blanc, Remoissenet Père et Fils, France, 2006
This was sort of like a fancied up version of an Insalata Caprese, so taste-wise, everything worked quite well together. I would've preferred a firmer texture on both the Burrata and the tomato however. The dish was paired with a white Burgundy, which I found rather mild for the region, smooth, easy, with soft minerals and clean fruit flavors.


Supplement: Cassoulet of seafood, king prawn tortellini and garbanzo beans
Vouvray, Domaine des Aubuisières, France, 2007
The types of seafood were scallop, geoduck, periwinkle clam, squid, and lobster, all in a cream sauce. Though not very inventive, all the seafood was tasty, though such small pieces left me wanting more. The Vouvray (Chenin Blanc) was nicely balanced, medium weight, dry but not overly so, with hints of stone fruit. It didn't get in the way of all the seafood flavors.


3: Hand-dived sea scallops, cauliflower purée and sherry vinegar reduction
Pinot Noir, Laetitia, Arroyo Grande Valley, California, 2006
The scallops here were delightful, with a nice consistency and sweet flavor that paired well with sherry vinegar, but that could've easily stood alone. The use of the Pinot was a bit interesting, but the smoky sweetness of the scallops made sure the wine didn't overpower. The wine itself was fairly typical of the varietal; good but nothing special.


Supplement: Smoked pork belly with roasted Scottish langoustine, celeriac and apple
Columella, Sadie Family, Swartland, South Africa, 2003
Lovely texture on the pork, though I thought the sauce was a bit too sweet. I enjoyed the langoustine very much so, but am left wondering exactly how it's supposed to pair with the pork. The wine, from South Africa, was a mix of Syrah and Mourvèdre. It had lots of fruit, as well as spice, with a medium-heavy weight; it stood up to the pork belly just fine.


Supplement: Monkfish with crispy chicken skin, lemon thyme consommé
Barbera d'Alba, Giacomo Brezza & Figli, Piedmont, Italy, 2005
The monkfish was quite firm and meaty, though not that bold in flavor by itself. Rather, the chicken skin added most of the dish's savoriness, while the consommé and vegetables added a touch of tartness. I think this might have been my first time drinking Barbera, an Italian red varietal from Piedmont. I didn't think it was particularly unique, but sort of like a Barbaresco. Pairing a strong red with fish usually doesn't work, but the strong flavor of the monkfish/chicken combo made it bearable.


4a: Pan-fried Arctic char with orzo, pickled Japanese mushrooms and dashi
Brut, Argyle, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2002
Arctic char is related to salmon and trout, and thus eating it was a similar experience. The fish had a firm flesh that was extremely flavorful, like a good salmon, while the skin was great as well. This was one of the strongest dishes of the night for me. Pairing the char with a sparkling wine was refreshing. The Argyle was easy-drinking and light, with a subtle, fruity sweetness and mild acidity.


4b: Beef filet and Kobe short rib, cipollini onion, baby beets
Claret, Newton, Napa Valley, California, 2005
The filet itself was well-cooked, with a pleasing texture, but was oversauced. The short rib was decent, but forgettable. Overall, I expected more from this dish. The wine pairing was a claret, a Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. It went well-enough with the beef, but like the beef, it was not especially memorable.


5: Confit Meyer lemon and basil gelée, sablé Breton and olive oil gelato
The combination of olive oil, lemon, and basil was interesting, though I wasn't completely sold. I did really enjoy the sablé Breton (like a cookie) crumbles here though.


Supplement: Cheese plate
Three types of cheese were presented: Petit Marcel (a goat's cheese from Pugs Leap, creamy and subtly sweet, my favorite of the trio), an unknown bleu (strong and sharp, with typical bleu cheese flavors), and a Gruyère (a hard cow's milk, mildly salty). The included fruit and nut toast was one of the better examples I've had.


6: Pineapple soufflé with Thai curry ice cream, toasted coconut
Sauternes, Château Roûmieu-Lacoste "Cuvée Leon", France, 2003
Though not particularly evocative of Thai curry, the ice cream added some much needed contrast to an otherwise unspectacular soufflé. Coconut and pineapple make for a safe, albeit a bit boring, flavor combination.


Supplement: Crème Fraîche panna cotta with strawberry gelée, acacia honey and thyme crumble
I preferred this supplementary dessert to the soufflé. I didn't detect much crème fraîche, but the strawberry gelée was a refreshing end to the meal. Good, but nothing that distinctive.



After the meal, we were given a tour of the kitchen. What struck me most was how large the kitchen seemed. When we asked our tour guide about the winner of Hell's Kitchen, he told us that the winner hadn't started working yet, and that the person wouldn't be an executive chef in charge of the entire kitchen, but more of a sous chef. That's a bit of a relief, as I'm not sure if any of this season's contestants are up to the daunting task of being a head chef (I still have money on Petrozza though!).

I enjoyed my time at Gordon Ramsay, but the place needs to do better in order to live up to its name. It was opening night, sure, but I didn't experience a two-star, or even one-star, Michelin meal. The restaurant has potential, but changes are needed. My suggestions:

• Make the portions larger. Unless you're a runway model or merely anorexic, the recommendation of eating only 3-4 courses and being completely satiated seems almost ludicrous. I had the equivalent of 10 courses and could've eaten a Double-Double afterwards.
• Rationalize the menu. Make fewer courses, but make each more complex and more luxurious. It's Gordon Ramsay; give me my truffles and caviar!
• Charge more. Prices seem far too low, especially when compared to the London and New York restaurants. I feel as though the restaurant is aiming for mass appeal rather than haute cuisine. This will go hand-in-hand with the previous suggestion.

Overall, Gordon Ramsay at The London needs to figure out what it wants to be. Right now, it appears as though the restaurant is aiming for actors, scenesters, and poseurs as the target clientele, making concessions to the detriment of true connoisseurs. There are plenty of other places in West Hollywood for that. Chef Ramsay, please don't continue down that path, lest the place turn into a subject for your other TV show: Kitchen Nightmares.

The Counter (Santa Monica, CA)

The Counter
2901 Ocean Park Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.399.8383
www.thecounterburger.com
Fri 05/23/2008, 08:40p-09:15p



We were in Santa Monica for a classmate's birthday party at the Viceroy hotel; but before heading over, we wanted to grab a bite to eat. Since one member of my party was budget-constrained, places like Melisse and Valentino were out of the question; it had to be cheap eats. My initial thought was Father's Office, since the place had been the subject of considerable hype. However, upon reading more about the restaurant on Yelp, I began to fear fighting the crowd there. Since I had burgers on the mind, The Counter, which also has had its share of ballyhoo, was a natural alternative.


The interior space is quite nice, but was jam packed when we arrived. There was a 25-minute wait for a table, so we decided to order the food to go.


Ordering is an interesting affair: for a custom burger, you simply check boxes on the ordering sheet and hand it over to the cashier. The sheet isn't necessary, however, if you're just ordering standard menu items. Click for larger versions.


Strawberry Malt
The Counter offers both shakes and malts, with the difference being that the malts contain malted milk (a powder made from malted barley, wheat flour, and milk), which adds a subtle twist to your typical shake. This was excellent, one of the best malts I've ever had in fact, with the perfect consistency (not too thick) and a bold but not overwhelming strawberry flavor.


Sweet Potato Fries
Sweet potato fries are all the rage these days, with those from The Counter and Father's Office especially in vogue, so naturally I had to try them. Honestly, I was disappointed. I thought they were overly sweet and didn't have the crispness that I like, though the included horseradish sauce did make things better I'll admit. I think I'll just stick to the standard french fries next time; hopefully this fad will pass.


Build Your Own Burger #1
Beef, 2/3 lb, Greek Feta, Grilled Onions, Hard Boiled Eggs, Lettuce Blend, Caramelized Onion Marmalade, Hamburger Bun. One of my dining companions ordered this and seemed quite happy with it, save for the onion marmalade, which he thought was rather strange tasting.


Build Your Own Burger #2
Unfortunately I forgot to snap a photo of the ordering form, so I'm not sure what this was. Going by the photo, I do see hard boiled eggs, lettuce, roasted chilis, and tomato on an English muffin. Again, I didn't order this and didn't try it, but I was told that it was quite good.


Carne Asada Burger Bowl
Grilled Marinated Skirt Steak Topped with Fried Tomatillos, Vine Ripened Tomatoes, Green Chiles and Lettuce Blend. Served on a Bed of Lettuce with a Whipped Avocado Sauce. I decided to order this, the Burger of the Month. Knowing that burgers here tended to get a bit messy, I opted to get the bowl version. That was probably a mistake, at least for this burger. As you can see, what I received was rather uninspired looking. The meat itself was decent, tender, though not particularly flavorful. The vegetables, on the other hand, seemed thrown in without much thought and added virtually nothing to the "burger." I expected much more than this.

Though my dining companions were quite satisfied with their burgers, I was left wanting. My Carne Asada burger was bordering on pathetic; I've had better at Jack in the Box. The slightly surly service didn't help either. I'm willing to give The Counter another chance, but maybe we should've braved the crowd at Father's Office after all.

Grace (Los Angeles, CA)

Grace
7360 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.934.4400
www.gracerestaurant.com
Thu 05/22/2008, 08:20p-11:30p



I had heard a lot of good things about Grace, so I figured it was time to try the place out. Given that the restaurant is celebrating its five-year anniversary this year, they must be doing something right, right?


The interior decor is contemporary yet comfy, with interesting angles and fascinating fixtures. But at the same time, the space was much larger than expected, and thus felt cavernous rather than cozy.


Grace offers à la carte selections as well as several tasting menus. However, we were here for the Chef's menu, which is created by Chef Neal Fraser a la minute. Normally, the Chef's menu consists of seven courses; however, we requested the addition of a cheese course (which we weren't charged for), making it an octet. Since the Chef's menu is determined on the spot, we requested that the dishes and wine pairings be typed up. Click for a larger version.


A ciabatta style loaf was the sole bread offered. I thought it was a bit hard (though certainly nowhere near the level at Veritas), but my dining companion liked its crustiness. The butter was excellent: smooth, spreadable, and salty.


To start? Why a mojito of course! This was a fine example, nicely balancing the drink's sweet and strong elements.


1: Chilled Avocado Soup
Duval Leroy Champagne NV, Champagne, France
American Caviar, Tomato Gelée. The first thing I thought of when I tasted this was "guacamole." The soup was mild and refreshing, with the tomato gelée adding a touch of sweetness while the caviar provided a perfect salty foil. However, I felt that the volume of avocado soup was simply too much, and overwhelmed the various accoutrements, thereby becoming a bit too monolithic in taste and texture. The paired Champagne went nicely with the theme of this dish.



2: White Corn Soup
Gewurtztraminer "Bollenberg," Château d'Orschwirh, Alsace, France
Sautéed Santa Barbara Spot Prawn, Shrimp Toast. Though I normally dislike corn soup, I thought this was excellent. The corn didn't drown out the prawn like I was afraid it would; rather, the two played different, but complementing roles in the dish. The included Gewurtz had a slightly Riesling-esque sweetness to it, which I thought linked nicely with the corn's inherent sweetness.


3: Sautéed Monterey Bay Sand Dabs
2005 Chardonnay "Mercurey Vielles Vignes," Château d'Etroyes, Burgundy, France
Braised Green Onion, Onion Flower, Fennel Nage. I think this may have been my first experience with sand dabs. The fish had a subtly sweet, soft, moist flesh that I actually wasn't huge fan of consistency-wise. I did enjoy the flavor of the fish though, along with all the various accompaniments, which provided a much needed contrast in texture. I thought the paired Burgundy was relatively subdued for the region, and proved to be a competent pairing.


4: Bacon Wrapped Saddle of Rabbit
2005 Pinot Noir, Hollis, Russian River Valley, California
Anson Mills Polenta, Pea Tendrils, Game Stock Reduction. Perhaps due to the bacon wrapping, the rabbit almost had a hammy taste to it, and texture-wise it wasn't too far off either. In any case, the flavor was intense, bold, with a touch of smokiness, and quite delicious actually. We had both the Pinot and the Grenache (for the next course) presented to us with this course. Given the intensity of the rabbit, the Grenache was probably a slightly better fit.


5: Grilled Sonoma Duck Breast
2005 Grenache "Purisima Mountain Vineyard," Qupé, Santa Ynez Valley, California
Beluga Lentils, Foie Gras, Carrot Curry Emulsion. I thought the foie was quite good, one of the better sautéed versions I've had in a while actually (I prefer the terrine style generally). However, the duck itself was tougher than I like, and I didn't think the flavor was robust enough. Duck and Pinot is a classic pairing, and I felt it worked a bit better than the Grenache in the side-by-side comparison we had.


6: Braised Short Ribs
2005 Zinfandel "Juvenile," Turley, California
Burgundy Snails, Spring Morels, Leek Fondue, Bordelaise. Braised ribs are usually incredibly tender and succulent (e.g. at Bastide, Michael Mina, or Valentino), yet unfortunately, that wasn't the case here. The ribs were surprisingly tough, and not particularly flavorful. Disappointing. The snails, cooked in a classic Bordelaise sauce, were quite good though. Zin was a wise wine choice here.


7: Cheese
2005 Zinfandel "Juvenile," Turley, California
Two cheeses were provided, served with toast and crisp nashi pear:
• Saint Andre Triple Cream Cow's Milk, Villefranche de Rouerque, France - Being a triple cream cow's milk cheese, the Saint Andre reminded a lot of one of my favorite cheeses, Brillat-Savarin. Soft, rich, and buttery, it was particularly tasty when spread on the toast. Superb.
• Sunlight Raw Goat's Milk, Haystack Mountain, Colorado - This semi-hard cheese, on the other hand, with its fruitier and nuttier flavor, went better with the pear. Quite good as well.


8a: Sticky Toffee Pudding
1998 Sainte Croix du Mont, Château La Grave, Bordeaux, France
Bruleed Bananas, Toffee Sauce, Hazelnut Gelato. The stickiness of the pudding put a nice twist on an otherwise pedestrian chocolate dessert. The burnt bananas were also a nice touch.


8b: Malted Milk Chocolate Doughnuts
1998 Sainte Croix du Mont, Château La Grave, Bordeaux, France
Earl Grey Caramel, Crème Fraiche Strawberry Ripple Ice Cream, Toffee Peanuts. Grace is known for its doughnuts, and they didn't disappoint here. Their complex flavor paired perfectly with the caramel sauce; and the strawberry ice cream, with its bits of fruit mixed in, was quite delicious as well.

I wasn't as impressed with Grace as I thought I'd be. They were some strong courses indeed, but overall, the dishes lacked the finesse I was looking for; portions were also larger than I thought they should've been. The order and arrangement of the courses seemed a bit off as well, and we didn't receive any amuse to begin the meal nor any mignardises to close it. That's basically how I felt about the meal in general: incomplete.

Providence (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

Providence
5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.460.4170
www.providencela.com
Mon 05/19/2008, 09:20p-12:20a



Providence kicked off the 2008 5x5 Chef's Collaborative dinner series. I had heard about the 5x5 dinners last year and wanted to attend, but unfortunately I was too late to act. This year I won't make the same mistake, and plan on attending all five events! Basically, in each dinner, each of the five "core" chefs and one guest chef prepares one dish in a multi-course meal. The fab five are: Gino Angelini (La Terza, Angelini Osteria), Michael Cimarusti (Providence), Josiah Citrin (Melisse), David Lefevre (Water Grill), and Walter Manzke (ex-Bastide).

According to the chefs, these dinners were "born out of a desire to form a stronger community among chefs and restaurateurs within the Los Angeles restaurant scene." In addition to providing the chefs with an invaluable chance to network and forge relationships, a portion of the proceeds from the dinners will benefit the Southern California Special Olympics. Here's the complete 2008 schedule:

• Monday, May 19 at Providence (guest chef David Kinch of Manresa, Los Gatos, CA)
• Tuesday, June 17 at Bastide (guest chef Gabriel Kreuther of The Modern, New York, NY) (Note: I have heard that due to Manzke's departure from Bastide, this dinner will no longer be happening, which is a shame)
• Monday, July 7 at Melisse (guest chef Douglas Keane of Cyrus, Healdsburg, CA)
• Sunday, August 31 at Water Grill (guest chef Giuseppe Tentori of Boka, Chicago, IL)
• Monday, September 22 at La Terza (guest chef Alain Giraud of Anisette, Los Angeles, CA)



Located at the old Patina site, Providence has some interesting architecture that does catch the eye. Valet parking is available for a small fee, but we elected to park on some nearby side streets. We did note that Providence seemed to be located in a less than spectacular neighborhood. In fact, we heard another diner express concern as to whether or not her car would still be there after her meal!


We ended up arriving about 40 minutes early, so we had to kill time at the bar.


Here we see the drink menu, with some interesting cocktails presented. Click for larger versions.


But alas, I had to go back to my old standard: the mojito. This was a very sweet example. I liked it, but some complained it wasn't strong enough (as opposed to the super-stiff one we had at Valentino a week earlier). On the right, we see a cucumber martini, a fine example of this very difficult to find drink. Note the attention to detail in how the cucumber mimics Providence's circular logo.


Here we have the main dining room.


There are a number of other rooms, include the Cellar room (left), the Sonoma room, and the room where we were seated (right). There is also a Chef's Table with a view of the bustling kitchen.


A seven-course menu was the only food option this night, but diners did have the option of going with a standard wine pairing (first photo) or an upgraded one (second photo). At the end of our meal, we were able to secure a special menu signed by all seven chefs (note that in the photo, the chefs are at Pink's!). Click for larger versions.


Four types of bread were on offer: French baguette, olive baguette, homemade focaccia, and bacon/onion brioche. My favorite was the brioche (how can you go wrong with bacon, the candy of meats?), followed by the olive baguette. Butter was smooth, spreadable, and salty, while the actual salt added an even stronger kick.



1: Amuse Bouche [by Michael Cimarusti of Providence]
• Tai ceviche with lemon, sweet and sour plum, and shiso granita - A harmony of flavors abounded here, with the various components highlighting and underscoring the snapper, though I found the utter coldness of the granita rather jarring.
• Calamari sushi with nori, asparagus, chorizo, and rice - My favorite of the trio. The squid encapsulated the other ingredients and served as a base for a fantastic flavor and texture interplay, while the chorizo added a spicy kick to the dish.
• Uni panna cotta with American caviar and wasabi - Egg with egg: the subtle flavor of the panna cotta was successfully drawn out by the brininess of the caviar. The addition of the wasabi further heightens this dish, making it a success.


2: Crispy Mussels perfumed with Nasturtium, Vegetables in Exotic Spice [by David Kinch of Manresa]
Taittinger, Cuvée Prestige
Now I've never had mussels prepared quite like this before. In addition to nasturtium (a flowering plant with a peppery taste not unlike watercress), the dish was flavored by a vadouvan butter foam (a spice mixture that can consist of curry, fenugreek, mustard, garlic, and cumin). This lent a distinctly Indian twang to the dish; in fact, it was almost like eating a mussel pakora if there were such a thing! The dry Taittinger was a nice complement.


3: Southern Australian Rock Lobster, Inaniwa Udon Noodles, Dashi-Konbu Broth [by Walter Manzke formerly of Bastide]
Kanchiku, Jun-mai Dai-ginjyo
A very rich, flavorful, and heartwarming soup garnished with cilantro, nori, and edible gold foil. Taking in the lobster along with the noodles, while inhaling the aroma of the broth, was immensely satisfying. Speaking of the broth, dashi is common soup base in Japanese cuisine, typically made with konbu (kelp) and katsuobushi (dried bonito). Here, I felt it was just as vital to the dish as the lobster. Given the Japanese nature of the dish, sake was a natural and effective pairing.


4: Turbot with Morels, Basil Scented Pea Purée, Rabbit Leg Confit and Anson Mills White Corn Strewn Grits [by David Lefevre of Water Grill]
Chardonnay, Levendi, Cold Creek 2006
If we just take the turbot in isolation, I must say that it's one of the best I've ever had, comparing favorably to the preparations I had at Arterra and Joël Robuchon. Taste- and texture-wise, the turbot was extremely enjoyable. However, I felt the rabbit confit was superfluous here, and the morels tended to dominate the fish's flavors; the grits, on the other hand, were a great accompaniment.


5: Agnolotti di Ossobuco, Salsa Parmigiano [by Gino Angelini of La Terza and Angelina Osteria]
Pinot Nero, J. Hofstatter, Meczan 2006
With brown butter and parsley. Although these may look simple, the taste was outstanding. The tender, flavorful ossobuco was the perfect filling for the pasta, perhaps even better than the pea and Mascarpone agnolotti I had at Spago. The paired wine was interesting, extremely light in color, yet, like the agnolotti, possessing a heady, meaty aroma and thick, buttery body.


6: Filet of Beef "Wellington", King Oyster Mushroom, Potato Boulangère, Watercress Mousseline [by Josiah Citrin of Melisse]
Merlot, Craggy Range, Te Kahu 2005
Chervil, sauce Bordelaise. This was actually only the second Wellington I've had (the first was at Veritas in New York). This was a better preparation, with the meat cooked perfectly, and so tender I cut it with my fork. The duxelles (a mixture of mushrooms, onions, shallots and herbs) added an earthy note to the meat, and also linked the Wellington to the salty king oyster mushroom. On the other hand, the thinly-sliced pomme boulangère provided a mild counterbalance to the boldness of the rest of the dish. The wine was a Kiwi mix of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, reminiscent of right bank Bordeaux, and stood its ground here.


7: Harry's Berries Gaviota Strawberries, Red Bean Purée, Shiso, Black Sesame-Soy Milk Ice Cream [by Adrian Vasquez of Providence]
Muscat, Wenzel, Noble Selection 2003
The red bean, shiso, sesame, and mochi cubes here lent this dessert a decidedly Asian flavor. Although the various ingredients may seem a bit strange, they did actually work rather well together here, with the strawberries lending a sweet foil to the other components of the dish. A very inventive, and satisfying, dessert.


Petit Fours
The plate consisted of vanilla marshmallow truffles, Amaretto chocolates (my favorite), espresso macarons, mushroom caramels, and olive oil gelées.


After dinner, we were able to corral the chefs together for a photo (they were all together at the bar). Clockwise from lower left, we have: Walter Manzke (ex-Bastide), Adrian Vasquez (Providence), Michael Cimarusti (Providence), David Kinch (Manresa), David Lefevre (Water Grill), Gino Angelini (La Terza, Angelini Osteria), and Josiah Citrin (Melisse).

This meal proved to be a truly memorable one. All the courses here were strong, showing off what each individual chef could offer. There wasn't a consistent theme, but rather, every dish really expressed the personality and style of each chef. In fact, one could almost tell who prepared a dish just by visual inspection. I can't wait for the next dinner in the series! (and hopefully they find a replacement for Bastide)

555 East (Long Beach, CA)

555 East
555 E Ocean Blvd, Long Beach, CA 90802
562.437.0626
www.555east.com
Sat 05/10/2008, 08:30p-09:50p



The 10th was the night of the USC Marshall end of year graduation party at the Queen Mary in Long Beach. It was smooth sailing until we had a taste of the appetizer spread, and we decided to abandon ship and head back out to Downtown Long Beach to save ourselves from the wretched food aboard the ocean liner. Would it be 555 East to the rescue?


The interior of 555 is pretty much exactly what you'd expect from a traditional steakhouse: lots of dark wood, and not much light. In fact, I was forced to use flash for the photos, which I'm usually loath to do. The last time I did so was also at a steakhouse: Mastro's. We were seated in the "Wine Cellar," which houses a portion of the restaurant's collection. One annoying thing about this arrangement was that servers kept going by us to get to the bottles! At least we managed to snag a seat though; when we first arrived, we were told that there was an hour wait for tables and that we'd have to sit at the bar.


555's menu represents typical steakhouse fare. Nothing fancy, nothing innovative, just the basics: steak, sides, your requisite seafood, and basic apps. Prices are fairly steep, but no higher than a Ruth's Chris or Morton's, let alone CUT.


Naturally, I started with a mojito, which was decent but uninspired. For the meat, we needed something stout, and so we ordered a bottle of Salvestrin Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2001. That particular year was a strong one in Napa, and the wine was rather bold, with typical dark fruit and currant flavors accompanied by a medium-heavy weight and lingering bite on the finish.


The bread was disappointing and wouldn't be out of place in a high school cafeteria. Just compare it to the selection at Mastro's and you'll see it's completely and utterly outclassed.


Filet Mignon Special (8oz)
This was a special filet topped with what I believe was an onion and mushroom sauce. The meat itself was tender enough, with a good mouthfeel and pleasing texture. But the sauce pretty much drowned out any of the natural beef flavor, thus confirming my firm belief in enjoying steak sans sauce.


Prime Ribeye (16oz)
Cut from the prime rib, the ribeye clearly had the most marbling of all the steaks we had this night. Actually, I thought it was too much so, as I ate mouthfuls of pure fat. Taste-wise though, the flavor and the juiciness were there in spades.


Rack of Lamb
One of my dining companions decided to break away from steak and go with these Colorado lamb chops, served with cassis sauce, garlic mashed potatoes, and spinach. Not a good decision in my opinion, as I felt the meat was overcooked and tough, while the flavor was muted and the crust failed in its intended purpose.


Prime New York Strip Steak (16oz)
This was what I ordered. Aged 28 days and cooked medium-rare, the New York was firmer than the ribeye with a richer flavor than the filet. In that regard, it sort of struck a balance between the two. On the right, we see all four meats together. Clockwise from left, we have the lamb, New York, ribeye, and filet.


Sides
The two sides we ordered were creamed spinach and sautéed mushrooms. I didn't try the spinach, but I did eat most of the mushrooms (perhaps because no one else wanted to?). They were palatable but too sweet and lacking in complexity and variation (how about mixing in some shimeji, morels, shiitakes, chanterelles, etc?). They reminded me of the mushrooms I had at my horrendous meal at Garden Room.


A fairly standard list of dessert and after dinner cordials is offered.


Rustic Apple Tart
Sauteéd apples wrapped in a flaky phyllo shell served with vanilla bean ice cream. I loved the temperature and texture interplay between the apple, pastry, and ice cream elements here. Surprisingly good!


Vanilla Crème Brulee
Traditional sweet vanilla bean custard topped with caramelized sugar. A textbook example really, which I can not fault. Quite delicious.

Overall, on the steakhouse hierarchy, I'd put 555 East well below CUT, below Mastro's, and around the same level as the trinity of Ruth's Chris, Morton's, and Fleming's. The steak itself was good enough, but many of the other elements seem a bit lackluster. Although the main focus should be on the meat, I'm really looking for the total package, and I don't think 555 is quite there yet.

Valentino (Santa Monica, CA)

Valentino
3115 Pico Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.829.4313
www.pieroselvaggio.com/valentino_santamonica/
Fri 05/09/2008, 08:20p-11:55p



Valentino was somewhat of a monumental meal for me. Why? Well after nearly two years of food blogging, I had yet to visit an Italian restaurant. Unbelievable I know! Perhaps it was eating all that Olive Garden growing up (or more recently, Macaroni Grill) that scarred me, but I had always had a somewhat negative impression of Italian cuisine. I wanted to change that, so we headed out to Valentino, a Michelin-starred restaurant which has been at the forefront of Italian cuisine for over 30 years. If any restaurant was going to turn me around on Italian, this would be the place right?


Although located on Pico, Valentino's main entrance is actually set back quite a bit from the street, adjacent to a small enclosed valet parking lot.


Valentino consists of four rooms, with a total capacity of about 200. Upon entering, you find yourself in the bar/reception area (left photo). On the left is the Gold Room, while the Main Dining Room is straight ahead. We passed through the Garden Room (right photo) before arriving at our table...


...In the enclosed "Patio." Not sure why it's called that. In any case, it was comfortable enough, with good table spacing and a decent about of light (for photo-taking).


The à la carte menu showcases a good number of antipasti, pastas, and main courses. Click for larger versions.


But naturally, the tasting menu was the way to go. The menu was signed by proprietor Piero Selvaggio (who was there to greet us at the start of our meal) and what I assume is Chef de Cuisine Giacomo Pettinari. Click for larger version.


Five varieties of bread were provided: breadsticks, olive, bell pepper (our favorite), bran, and regular. The butter was quite good, but fairly typical.


I, of course, started with a mojito, which I found rather strong and in need of more sugar. One of my dining companions opted for a Negroni, a traditional Italian apéritif made of equal parts gin, vermouth, and Campari.

Note: Although we did order wine pairings, we forgot to request a list of wines at the end of the meal. Thus, this report will not have the names or descriptions of the wines we had. Unfortunate I know.


1: Lo Stuzzichino
The "Chef's Palate Teaser" was an olive-infused tuna tartare. In my opinion, the olive made the dish overly oily and heavy, and tended to overpower the fish. I would've preferred an accompaniment lighter and sharper on the palate. One of my dining companions compared this to the tuna tartare special we had at Stonehill Tavern. The paired Prosecco was a nice way to kick things off however.


2: Aragosta, Pomodori e Burrata
Lobster, Organic Tomato, Fresh Burrata, Basil Oil Salad. This was sort of a fancy version of the traditional Insalata Caprese. The Burrata and especially the lobster were excellent on their own, but the best way to eat this was to take in everything together, to really experience the harmony of flavors here. Magnifico! The wine here was an intense Burgundian-style white; it was quite strong when drunk alone, but really softened when taken with the lobster.


3: Salmone del Baltico, Casseruola di Finocchi e Salsa di Tartufo
Sautéed Baltic Salmon, Fennel and Hazelnut Casseruola, Truffle Sauce. I quite enjoyed the fish here, which had a great, rich, signature salmon flavor. I thought it stood up well to the truffle sauce, but some complained that the sauce lacked sufficient impact. The use of fennel and hazelnuts added a nice textural contrast.


4: Pappardelle di Cumino, Salsa di Coda alla Vaccinara
Home-made Cumin Pappardelle, Oxtail Ragu. One of my dining companions thought the pappardelle was undercooked, but I appreciated its slightly tough texture, as I thought it worked beautifully with the softness of the oxtail. The addition of the peas reminded me of the pea agnolotti from Spago. Very good, no complaints here.


Supplement: Risotto ai Funghi
A risotto of mushroom, with asparagus and topped with Prosciutto. This was a supplement to the tasting menu, and was a special this night. Meraviglioso! This was probably the second best risotto I've ever had, slightly behind Patina's. The rice had just the right texture and was bolstered immensely by the perfect harmony of the accoutrements. Probably the best dish of the night.


5: Costine di Manzo
Braised Beef Short Ribs, Shaved Black Truffle, Cauliflower and Carrot Tart, Brussel Sprouts and Italian Kale. I can't fault the beef itself; it was tender, flavorful, just what a good braised meat should be. However, it was just so heavy that three pieces was simply too much. About half the meat would've been perfect. I liked the veggies, but unfortunately I was not a fan of the cauliflower/carrot combo.


Supplement: Risotto Verde all'Ortolana
Fresh Spinach Sauce and Farmer's Market Vegetables. Not feeling full enough and heartened by the mushroom risotto, we decided to order the two risottos on the regular menu. The spinach added a great twang to the rice, and the veggies were simply a joy to eat. It was nice to be able to contrast this with the next risotto...


Supplement: Risotto Nero e Aragosta
Squid Ink Risotto with Maine Lobster and Cherry Tomatoes. Now this was interesting! The squid ink added a indescribable taste to the risotto, which I rather liked. The lobster was delicious, as expected, though I would've liked more! The table was split as to whether we preferred this or the spinach risotto, but we were unanimous with our preference for the "ai funghi."


6: I Formaggi
Two Artisanal Cheeses from Piedmont, Traditional Condiments of Hazelnuts, Apricots, Strawberries, Candied Walnuts, Honey, and Toast. The cheese on the left was Raschera (cow/sheep), while I'm not so sure about the other. After doing some research on Piedmontese cheese, I think it's Toma Piemontese. I actually preferred it, given its softer texture and mild flavor.


7: Piccola Dolcezza
A Pre Dessert of dark chocolate sorbet with Amaretto cookies. Amaretto is, of course, an Italian liqueur flavored with almond. It's slightly bitter taste was a wonderful complement to the similarly bitter chocolate.


8: Il Dolce
Granny Smith Zuppetta, Cinnamon Pannacotta. This was an interesting play in contrast between the subtly sweet pannacotta and the tart apple sauce and blueberries. The biscotto was a nice textural element and was very useful for dipping the cream.

I'm happy to report that Valentino managed to exceed my expectations. What a difference compared to the dreck I normally must consume! Indeed, Piero and company have showed me the depth of Italian cooking, and I hope to continue on my journey through this brave new world. Consider my perceptions changed. Bravo!