CUT (Las Vegas, NV)

CUT
3325 Las Vegas Blvd S, Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.607.6300
www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/finedining/cut/lasvegas/
Mon 06/30/2008, 06:00p-08:00p



My meal at the original CUT in Beverly Hills, specifically the genuine Wagyu, really redefined my preconceived notions of steak. The Japanese beef literally was unlike anything I'd ever experienced up until that point, and to this day, is what I compare all subsequent steaks to. So when I happened to find myself in Las Vegas looking for a good steak, the new location of CUT was a natural choice.


CUT is located in the shops at the Palazzo. Note the adjacent entrance to the bar. In addition to CUT, Palazzo also houses Carnevino, Mario Batali's steakhouse, and Morels, a French steakhouse.


Like its sibling, CUT's interior is sleek and modern, though arguably a bit warmer than the original. Lighting is fairly bright for a steakhouse (as opposed to, let's say, Mastro's), which was a definite plus for my photo taking.


The menu is pretty much a carbon copy of the original location's, with a bevy of unique appetizers up front, followed by four grades of steak, other creative entrées, and finally a smattering of sides. Executive Chef Matthew Hurley wasn't in on this particular night, so the menu was signed by Sous Chef Jessica ???. Click for a larger version.


I had my signature mojito to start. It was a solid interpretation of the drink, with everything in balance, no one element dominating. Quite similar to what I had at CUT Beverly Hills actually.


As in Beverly Hills, the selection of meats was brought out to be presented tableside. On the left side, we have an American filet, rib eye, and strip. On the right are the Japanese rib eye and strip. Note the much more intense marbling with the Japanese cuts.


Just like at the original location, the meal started off with a duo of crispy bread sticks and delicious Gruyere cheese Gougères (which also reminded me of versions I've had at French Laundry and Lawry's). After this came the formal bread selection of pumpernickel, rustic wheat, Bavarian pretzel, and olive focaccia.


Summer Corn & Fava Bean Salad [$17.00]
Arugula, Cherry Tomatoes, French Feta, Goat Yogurt "Tzitzkiki." I'm not a huge fan of salads, but I quite liked this. The tomatoes and the corn added a subtle sweetness to the fray, which was nicely tempered by the fava bean and arugula. A great harmony of flavors and textures here.


Baby Carrots, Snap Peas, Honey, Marjoram [$12.00]
I loved the crispness of the peas, but the veggies had a pronounced sweetness to them due to the honey, which I found rather disconcerting.


Potato Tart Tatin [$16.00]
Traditionally, a tart tatin is an upside down apple tart. Made with potatoes instead, this version had a delightful, flaky crust encasing a soft, buttery interior.


Early Harvest Sweet Summer Corn [$12.00]
The corn had an ever so slight crunch to it, along with a firmer texture than I'm used to. Pleasant, though nothing special.


Before the steaks were presented, we were provided a quartet of dipping sauces: fleur de sel, violet mustard, spicy whole grain mustard, and Dijon mustard. Although a kind gesture and perhaps a nice novelty, I found them unnecessary, as the steaks easily stood on their own.


Naturally, a steak calls for a stout red wine. While my dining companions went with Pinot Noir, I paid a visit to South America with the 2006 Achaval-Ferrer Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina. The Malbec was up to the challenge for the most part, showing ripe flavors of dark berry along with hints of minerals and spice.


U.S.D.A. Prime, Illinois Corn Fed, Aged 21 Days [$56.00]
Bone In Filet Mignon 16 Oz. Although this filet was CUT's lowest grade of steak, I still found it superior to any other filet I've had at Fleming's, Mastro's, Morton's, Ruth's Chris, et al. Very tender as expected, but actually quite flavorful for a filet (perhaps due to the bone?).


U.S.D.A. Prime, Nebraska Corn Fed, Dry Aged 35 Days [$62.00]
Rib Eye Steak 16 Oz. I'm not normally a fan of rib eyes, but I've really enjoyed the rib eyes I've had a CUT. I'm not sure why, but they just lack the excessive fattiness that most incarnations have. Dry-aging results in a more concentrated beefy taste, and while the rib eye was more flavorful than the filet above, I wonder if it was a result of the dry-aging or simply because rib eyes are naturally more robust. Probably a combination of both.


True Japanese 100% Wagyu Beef From Kagoshima Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan [$135.00]
New York Steak 6 Oz. Here's what we were all here for: true Japanese beef. Note the increased marbling compared to the cuts above, and also note how the marbling seems to be more integrated into the meat. Super tender, melt-in-your-mouth, almost buttery, Kagoshima Wagyu never fails to disappoint. My dining companions, who'd never had real Wagyu before, both thought it was a night-and-day difference compared to your typical beef.


Mignardises
Similar to the Beverly Hills CUT, mignardises consisted of a sticky caramel nut and an overly tart lemon meringue.

Although this was another positive experience at CUT, it didn't quite achieve the levels of my previous visit. However, I suspect the reason is not the food itself, but rather that my first meal at CUT was a revelation . Ever since that meal, CUT has been the standard bearer of steak for me. This time, I went in with preconceived notions and expectations, and while the food was superb, it just didn't have the same amount of impact. There is really nothing quite like your first time!

Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale's (Costa Mesa, CA)

Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale's
3333 Bristol St, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714.352.2525
www.charliepalmer.com/bloomingdale/home.html
Sat 06/21/2008, 06:10p-10:10p



Best known for Aureole restaurant in New York, this eponymous eatery at Bloomingdale's is, to my knowledge, Charlie Palmer's first foray into the Southern California dining scene. As such, given Charlie's stature as a celebrity chef, it was only a matter of time before we had to give the place a shot. We wisely waited a few weeks after opening, but perhaps we didn't wait long enough...



We were doing some light shopping at Bloomingdale's before dinner, so we entered via the restaurant's back entry. A portion of cellar is proudly displayed through glass, though I have to wonder if the constant light exposure wouldn't be detrimental to the wine. Meanwhile, a slit in the wall gives potential diners a peek into the kitchen.


Once we made our way to the restaurant's proper entrance, we were greeted by a rather impressive entry. There is a small walkway, suspended over what appears to be a wine cellar, which leads into the bar/lounge area, and subsequently the main dining room.



I was actually quite impressed with the decor. It was perhaps a bit eclectic, with light surfaces comingled with dark wood, contemporary flourishes versus traditional touches, minimalism blended with gilded ornamentation.


On the left is the menu, signed by Executive Chef Amar Santana. The menu is evenly divided into appetizers (of which we tried almost every one), entrées (which we didn't have at all), and sides. On the right is the cocktail and bar menu. Click for larger versions.


Two cocktails were had to start. First was a Blood Orange Mojito [$12.00] made with Bacardi O, Blood Orange, Lime, Mint, and Soda. The tartness was a bit lacking, and the mint wasn't apparent enough. Next time I'll stick with the standard incarnation. Next was the OMG [$12.00] with Mount Gay Rum, Cointreau, Pineapple, and Lime. This was far too sweet, bordering on "girly" actually.


The wine list was definitely worth noting. It was the first time I'd seen an electronic list presented on a tablet computer. Neat, but a bit cumbersome to navigate. For the Luddites, a traditional paper copy was available as well.


We enjoyed three bottles of wine with the meal, the Krug and Shafer coming from my personal cellar:

• NV Krug Champagne Grande Cuvée [$76.27] - This was almost a carbon copy of the 1990 Krug Brut I had at Sushi Sasabune earlier in the year, which wasn't surprising given that the Champagnes were of similar age. Hints of citrus and honey lead into enormous amounts of toast and yeast on a ridiculously lingering finish. If you haven't tasted old Champagne before, definitely give it a try; it's a unique experience to say the least, almost like an old Chardonnay. If bubbly from 1990 tasted like this, I can only imagine what my Dom Perignons from the 70's must be like!
• 1998 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select [$168.07] - 1998 was tough year in Napa, but the Shafer Hillside is arguably the top effort of the vintage and surprised both my dining companion and I. Upon first taste, we noted dark fruit, currant, cassis, and plum. Intense to say the least! After a while, the wine began to exhibit strong hints of tobacco, spice, and minerals. Soft tannins, heavy weight with a viscous mouthfeel, leading to a long finish. Very nice.
• 2005 Francis Tannahill Gewürztraminer Passito [$55.00] - From Willamette Valley, Oregon. This Gewürz was sweet, but balanced with acidity. It exhibited typical floral and lychee notes, along with a hint of spice and pepper. Sweet, but not overly so.

Three types of bread were on offer: olive, whole wheat, and baguette (my favorite).


Amuse Bouche: Bleu Cheese Custard with Stone Fruit
The dinner started off strong. The custard was surprisingly mild, smooth, and subtly sweet, and set off the slightly tart stone fruit quite well. Very nice.


Chilled Pacific Oysters [$14.00]
Smoked Cocktail Sauce, Meyer Lemon Mignonette. This was a very typical presentation. Nothing wrong with that per se, but I would've liked to have seen more done to the oysters, which were a bit lacking in zest.


Kampachi Sashimi [$13.00]
Pickled Celery Salad, Spicy Capicola, Black Lava Salt. Put simply, there was far too much going on with this dish. The combination of a heavy oil, capicola, and copious amounts of the lava salt left the natural flavor of the fish nearly completely neutralized. The kampachi should've taken center stage here, but instead was pushed aside by what should have been supporting ingredients. Take this one off the menu!


Ahi Tuna Carpaccio [$14.00]
Avocado Mousse, Shaved Fennel, Mandarin Oil. For this tuna, I could almost repeat verbatim my comments for the dish above. This one just looks contrived. Again, we find the fish just drowning in a pool of oil, while the other ingredients do nothing to draw out the flavor of the tuna. We have quite a mess here.


Artisan Salumi Santana [$14.00]
Rustic Páté, Andouille, Summer Sausages, Prosciutto, Dijon Mustard, Green Beans, Pickles, Country Bread. We thought this to be a rather large spread for an appetizer portion. In any case, I found most of the meats tasty though not exceptional. My favorite items were actually the pâtés.


Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras [$24.00]
Apricot Tarte Tatin, Caramelized Apricot. This was a decent preparation of foie, though the liver wasn't as soft or as flavorful was the best versions. I also felt the apricots were a tad overly sweet. This was the first course we paired with the Francis Tannahill, and the wine stood up quite well.


Chilled Foie Gras Torchon [$22.00]
Pineapple Chutney, Rum Raisin Brioche. One of the stronger dishes of the night. The terrine had the right texture and the foie's lingering flavor was cleverly drawn out by the pineapple. Clearly not at French Laundry levels, but a good effort.


Ricotta Tortellini [$14.00]
Sweet Pea Variation, Carrot Emulsion. The combination of flavors and textures here all just seemed a bit unrefined, with the peas and carrots not really melding well with the tortellini. Inoffensive but unimpressive.


Wild Mushrooms [$8.00]
Shallot, Fresh Thyme. This was a decent mix of mushrooms, reasonably prepared. It seemed like something one would order at a steakhouse and was definitely the stronger of the two mushroom sides we ordered.


Farro Risotto [$9.00]
Morels. Farro is a type of wheat that I've begun to see more and more on restaurant menus, often as a substitute for risotto. One of my first encounters with it was at Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas. Compared to that presentation, this was much grittier, much rougher in style. Nevertheless, it complemented the morels nicely and was pleasant to eat.


Crisp Pork Belly [$13.00]
Melon, Pickled Onion, Aged Sherry Vinegar. The pork itself was decent, though perhaps a bit overdone, and not very fatty. I did enjoy the crispness of the skin however. The melon and sherry vinegar I could've done without.


Shrimp Kabobs À La Plancha [$15.00]
Tamarind Chive Glaze, Caponata Salad. The shrimp actually came presented on skewers, which the server removed, thus dropping the shrimp onto the plate. I found that the tamarind sauce here did a good job of masking the shrimp's natural flavor. Not great.


Mushroom Fried Rice [$7.00]
Coriander. This reminded me of my mother's fried rice after sitting in the fridge for about a day: a bit lacking in flavor, and tough in texture. Also, despite being "mushroom" fried rice, I had a difficult time discerning any.


Cremini [$8.00]
Oxtail Ragout. Ridiculously salty, with the oxtail doing a fine job of destroying any of the mushroom's distinct flavor. I needed to drink plenty of water with this.


With the savory courses not going so well, we were counting on dessert to bring things to a strong close. Click for larger versions.


Caramelized Milk Panna Cotta [$10.00]
Pickled Stone Fruit, Garden Basil, Crispy Meringue. The stone fruit did a great job of matching the mildness of the panna cotta while the basil ice cream added a unique twist to this dish. The crispy meringue, meanwhile, added a well-placed textural contrast. Lovely.


Chino Farms Strawberries [$10.00]
Frozen Cream Cheese, Angel Food, Shiso. The cool creaminess of the cream cheese really did a great job in setting off the sweetness of the strawberry/cake combination. The addition of shiso here worked very well in my opinion.


Mignardises
Chocolate macaron, stonefruit gelée, blueberry and peach tarts. A pretty standard assortment of mignardises closed out the meal.


After the dinner, we briefly toured the kitchen and met with Executive Chef Amar Santana, former sous chef from Aureole.

Quite simply, this was a letdown. In general, the flavors were far too blunt, far too monolithic, and far too clumsy. The ingredients really need to speak for themselves, but instead, what were supposed to be accoutrements became the foci of the dishes. Where's the subtlety, the finesse? I expected much more from Mr. Palmer, and at this point, this restaurant clearly does not live up to his name nor the hype.

The Courtyard (West Hollywood, CA)

The Courtyard
8543 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
310.358.0301
www.thecourtyardla.com
Sat 06/14/2008, 06:00p-10:00p



The Courtyard is a "Spanish Tapeo"-style restaurant located in the heart of West Hollywood, near Santa Monica and La Cienega. What brought us here was the going-away of a fellow classmate of ours. The mediocre reviews of the place on Yelp didn't exactly give me confidence, as I imagined the place was chosen more for being hip/fun/casual, rather than for the food. Nevertheless, I rarely get to have tapas, so that was enough to get me fairly interested.

Coincidentally, we were here on my birthday, though this was not my birthday dinner. That meal is still yet to be determined.


The word that comes to mind upon seeing the entrance is "quaint," a bit of a contrast compared to the bustling thoroughfare of Santa Monica Boulevard.


The main dining room is really the area between two buildings. There is, however, plenty of indoor seating as well. But naturally, at a placed called "Courtyard," we opted to sit in the courtyard.


The menu is comprised mostly of tapas-style dishes meant for sharing, though larger mains are available. Prices did seem a bit high for what was offered. Click for larger versions.


The wines by the glass list is limited, though reasonably priced. I wish we would've tried some of the the sangria though! Click for larger versions.


Over the course of the meal, we enjoyed four wines (the first three of which we brought ourselves):

• 2000 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - From my personal cellar, the 2000 Cristal is one of my favorite sparklers of all time. So smooth and robust, with lovely flavors of honey and citrus showing all the way through the finish. This is something even non-bubbly drinkers will love.
• 2002 Château Haut-Brion - From the Pessac-Léognan region in Bordeaux. The 2002 doesn't get the rave reviews of the vaunted 2000 and 2003 vintages, but I thought this wine was a pleasant surprise. Incredibly bold, with loads of dark berry and smoke, ending with a rich, lingering, silky finish.
• 1996 Spring Mountain Vineyard Miravalle-La Perla-Chevalier - From Napa, a Bordeaux-style blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. So different than the Haut-Brion above. The claret was much lighter, with much more peppery spiciness to it, but still soft, and with pronounced tannins for its age.
• 2005 Bodegas Castaño Monastrell Yecla Hécula [$35.00] - Finally, a Spanish wine. We first tasted this by the glass, and interestingly enough, I liked it better than when we decided to order the whole bottle. I imagine this was because the wine needed some time to breathe. And indeed, given time, the spice and alcoholic kick gave way to softer earth, mineral, and blackberry flavors.

Piquillos Pisto [$9.00]
Sweet red peppers filled with sautéed vegetables and bleu cheese. A bit limp, I would've liked to have seen more crispness in the peppers here, in order to better stand up to the cheese filling. Forgettable.


Risotto Balls [$9.50]
Given my recent penchant for risotto (which I discovered at Patina), I had to give these a try. They were actually quite tasty, and I appreciated the contrast between the creaminess of the interior (which could've been a good standalone risotto) and the crisp crust.


Gambas Al Diablo [$9.50]
Sautéed shrimp with fiery tomato sauce. These were expertly cooked shrimp with a sauce that, while spicy, managed to enhance and not dominate the flavor of the shrimp. Nice, and arguably the best dish of the night.


Dates in Bacon [$8.00]
Bacon wrapped dates served with blue cheese dipping sauce. Unfortunately I don't think I was quick enough to try one of these, though others said they were quite good.


Five Spice Calamari [$9.00]
Crunchy calamari with lemon and salsa brava. It seems like everyone and their mother makes some sort of fried calamari. I'm rarely disappointed, but I thought Courtyard's version was particularly good. Excellent on their own sans any sauces, it must be the "five spices" used. Very nice.


Un Poco de Todo [$13.00]
Selection of Spanish sausages, Jamon Serrano, and Manchego cheese. I wasn't impressed with the sausages, but I thought the thinly-sliced Jamon Serrano was very similar in flavor and texture to Italian prosciutto, which is a good thing. In addition, we had Manchego cheese, a semi-hard sheep's milk cheese made in the La Mancha region of Spain. Its mild creaminess and subtle flavor made a good impression on me.


Steak a lo Pobre [$15.00]
Sliced grilled steak on a bed of blue cheese-onion potatoes. Though the meat was cooked more than I prefer, this was still one of the best courses of the evening. The steak was tender and surprisingly flavorful, and the addition of the cheesy potatoes further elevated the dish.


Sweet and Spicy Sesame Chicken [$9.00]
This was pretty much identical to the orange chicken one can order at Americanized Chinese restaurants, so I'm not sure what it was doing on the menu here. I found it uninspired, though certainly not offensive (as opposed to, let's say, the octopus below).


Pupusas [$10.00]
Handmade masa dough filled with black beans & cheese and zucchini & cheese. A pupusa is basically a thick tortilla stuffed with various items: cheese, beans, and zucchini in this case. This was my first time trying them, and although I found them tasty, they were a bit lacking in substance and impact.


Mejillones [$12.00]
Mussels with leeks in a light white wine, garlic cream sauce. These were solid mussels, with a nice, light, fresh taste but maybe a bit lacking in the crisp texture that really good mussels have (see Summit). I did find the bread a bit superfluous.


Paella Valencia [$24.00]
Saffron rice with sausage, chicken, fish, shrimp, calamari and mussels. This may very well be the first paella I've ever had. The saffron rice was fragrant on its own, and paired nicely with the various bits of meat and seafood, especially the sausage and calamari. I definitely liked the addition of peas into this medley of flavors as well.


Gambas Al Ajillo [$9.50]
Sautéed shrimp in garlic sauce. This was one of the stronger dishes of the night I thought. Garlic and shrimp is almost always a winning combination, and it didn't let me down here. The shrimp were well-cooked and the sauce didn't overpower. Not quite as good as the Gambas Al Diablo above though.


Beef Empanadas [$13.00]
Empanada shells filled with marinated ground beef herbs and spices. Though the ground beef didn't seem to be of particularly high quality (think Taco Bell), the empanadas were fairly tasty, albeit a bit nondescript. Serviceable.


Pulpo [$8.00]
Octopus with paprika, sea salt, olive oil and potatoes. This was easily the most disappointing dish of the night for me. As the photo might suggest, the flavors here were extremely muddled and the octopus really lost any semblance of its unique character. Quite a mess actually.


Courtyard Seasoned Fries [$5.00]
The menu advertises these fries as "possibly the best in town." I doubt that. They were tasty, but really nothing special. McDonald's' are at least comparable in my opinion.


Nutella Bread Pudding
Since it happened to be my birthday, we ended the meal with a complementary serving of this Nutella bread pudding. Nutella is, of course, the ubiquitous hazel-nut based spread. But unfortunately, I didn't really get much of its flavor here, though the bread pudding itself was fairly solid. Not bad for free, though perhaps I would've been disappointed had I had to pay for it.

In the end, I did have a good time here, but that was due to the company, not the cuisine. The Courtyard is a fun place, and I think it's great for large groups that seek a unique, informal vibe. So come for the ambiance, stay for the food if you must.

Luce (Charlotte, NC)

Luce
214 N Tryon St, Charlotte, NC 28202
704.344.9222
www.luceristorante.net
Thu 06/10/2008, 07:15p-09:10p



After having a very enjoyable meal at Ratcliffe on The Green the previous night, the bar was set high in Charlotte. I wasn't sure exactly where we'd end up for dinner: along with Luce, other options were Arpa, Blue, Sonoma, and GW Fins. Some people were in the mood for Italian, and I'd heard some good things about the place, so Luce it was.


Luce has a nice outdoor seating area, but given the 100°F heat, we wisely opted to dine indoors.


The interior is nice enough, though perhaps a bit uninspired. Our table afforded at least one of my dining companions a view of the NBA Finals game being shown at the bar.


The menu is laid out in a straightforward manner: apps, pasta, mains. There are also specials, of course, which we did sample. Click for larger versions.


I initially asked for a mojito, but sadly, there was no mint to be found. The Bellini Martini [$9.00] would have to do instead. I found it rather heavy in comparison to your garden variety Bellini, lacking the refreshing nature of the sparkling wine.


By itself, the bread was decent but unspectacular. Paired with its olive oil-based dip however, and the bread was elevated to another level. Excellent.


Involtini di Melanzane [$9.00]
Stuffed Eggplant with fresh Mozzarella and Ricotta in a light Tomato and Butter sauce. This dish bored me; all I tasted was the eggplant, which I'll admit did have a somewhat unique crunch to it. But the two cheeses didn't really come into play at all. Overall, a disappointment.


Carpaccio di Bue alla Piemontese [$10.00]
Thinly sliced seared Beef served with Baby Arugula and finished with shaved Parmiggiano and Truffle Oil. A very textbook carpaccio, but it worked well enough. The meat itself was quite tender, though not overly flavorful. The arugula and Parmiggiano did help to mix things up.


Special: Risotto
Butternut Squash, Shrimp. This was a competent risotto, but I felt the rice was a touch tough and the squash lent too much sweetness to the dish. Solid, but pales in comparison to the risottos at places such as Patina.


Agnolotti alla Piemontese [$17.00]
Square-shaped house made Ravioli, stuffed with Roasted Veal, braised Swiss Chard and Parmesan with a Sage Veal Jus. This was actually my favorite dish of the night. I don't usually find veal particularly flavorful, but the addition of the chard and sage to the dish really heightened the flavors here. Superb.


Special: Cavatelli
Beef Tenderloin, Arugula, Tomato. Cavatelli is actually a pasta I don't see that often. They're normally made of flour, semolina, and water, and I found them to have a very pleasing, slightly chewy consistency. I thought this was a lighter dish compared to the ravioli, even with the tenderloin. The ingredients really stood on their own. Nice.


Special: Whole Roasted Branzino [$28.00]
Also known as European seabass, the branzino here was served with potato and artichoke. This may have been my first time eating branzino, and I rather liked the fish, with a firm, slightly flaky texture bolstered by a sharp, salty tang. The branzino was especially good paired with and tempered by the potato.


Tiramisu [$7.50]
Ah tiramisu, the requisite dessert at an Italian restaurant I suppose. Not much to say about this one; it was delicious, but ordinary.

Overall, I enjoyed my time at Luce. It's solid Italian, and a level higher than your typical Italian chains, though not nearly on the level of a place such as Valentino. But no matter, Luce is definitely a solid contender to get your Italian fix in Charlotte.

Ratcliffe on The Green (Charlotte, NC)

Ratcliffe on The Green
435 S Tryon St, Charlotte, NC 28202
704.358.9898
www.ratcliffeonthegreen.com
Thu 06/09/2008, 08:30p-12:05a



After being underwhelmed by Mimosa Grill the night earlier, I was counting on Ratcliffe on The Green to raise the bar. The Green, by the way, is a small park-like area in Uptown Charlotte.

Ratcliffe prides itself on being a follower of the "farm to fork" concept, using local, sustainable ingredients as much as possible and presenting them at the peak of their flavor and freshness. The Executive Chef/Owner is Mark Hibbs, who unfortunately wasn't in on this particular night. Sous Chef Greg Balch was at the helm, and after dinner, he even came out and spoke with us. The Pastry Chef is Gwendolyn Fodse-Hibbs (Mark's wife I assume) and the General Manager Erik Carpenter.


Ratcliffe is housed in the space of a former flower shop, hence the sign. The entrance, however, is not under the neon, but actually off to the side of the building, facing The Green.


Comprised of several unique rooms, Ratcliffe was quite a bit larger than I thought it'd be. We were seated in the lovely main dining room.


Grouped into appetizers and mains, with a trio of sides, Ratcliffe's menu is simple enough. We had the 7-course Chef's Tasting Menu [$75] with "First Tier" wine pairings [$35], and also added on the Black Truffle Mac & Cheese (one member of my party just had to try it!). Click for larger versions.


For the most part, our wine pairings would be taken from the wines by the glass list. As such, we didn't feel going for the "Second Tier" pairings was quite worth it. On the right, we were provided with a brief listing of the night's dishes. Click for larger versions.


The bread here consisted of biscuits, which I thought tasted like those from KFC! They were delicious though.


Amuse Bouche: Potato Soup
Caramelized Onion, Pepper Cheese, Beer. A very nice soup, the rich creaminess of the potato base contrasted beautifully with the sharpness of the pepper cheese. I could've had a big bowl of this. I didn't detect much of the beer though.


Supplement: Black Truffle Mac & Cheese [$7.00]
Though the shape of the pasta didn't look like your typically macaroni, this dish definitely tasted like a fancier version of the classic mac & cheese. Although a pleasure to eat, I would've preferred a stronger truffle flavor.


1: Fried Bosky Acres Chèvre Salad
Beaucanon Estate 2007 High Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, California
Panko crusted Goat Cheese, Bull's Blood Beet Leaves. Panko is a type of breadcrumb often used in Japanese cuisine to create fried foods such as tonkatsu. As such, the use of the panko here gave this dish a decidedly Asian flavor. The chèvre, or goat cheese, was extremely mild and very creamy, a nice contrast to the crust.


2: North Carolina Coastal Shrimp and Anson Mills Grits
Martin Codax 2006 Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain
Fresh Shrimp tossed with Andouille Sausage, Bermuda Onion and Sweet Pepper, Deglazed with Sherry served over White Cheddar Cheese Anson Mills Grits. Perfectly cooked, the shrimp by itself would've been superb, but the addition of the sausage and "salsa" elevated the dish to another level. The sausage added a smoky, salty tang while the pepper and onion provided a hint of acidity; in contrast, the grits pretty much stood out of the way flavor-wise, but added an interesting texture play. Truly, this was one of the best pieces of shrimp I've ever tasted.


3: Seared North Carolina Grouper
Raptor Ridge 2006 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon
With Pea Risotto. I don't get to have grouper too often (the last one was at Kevin Taylor I believe), but when I do, it's almost always excellent, and this was no exception, with a perfect texture and immensely flavorful. I think everyone at the table was impressed with this one. I loved the addition of the peas to the risotto, which was very good, though not as strong as I've had at Patina or Valentino.


4: Rabbit Roulade
Tete a Tete 2005 Syrah Blend, Sierra Foothills, California
Fresh T&B Farm Rabbit Saddle stuffed with Whistle Pig acres Shiitake Mushroom and Roasted Red Pepper Duxelles and wrapped with Ratcliffe on The Green Smoked Bacon. The rabbit here was cooked quite well, tender, juicy, and paired wonderfully with the duxelles (a finely minced mushroom mixture commonly used in beef Wellington). In some ways, the meat was almost like chicken. I did feel the bacon was a bit strong though, and tended to draw attention away from the rabbit.


5: Braised Grateful Growers Pork Belly
Truchard 2002 Carneros, Napa Valley, California
Stewed Poplar Ridge Farm Collard Greens, Kale. This was the weakest course of the night for me, as I felt the pork was rather tough and dry in consistency. Also, the collard greens were a bit bitter for me, and tended to focus my attention away from the meat.


6: North Carolina Charcuterie and Cheese Plate
Grahams Six Grapes NV Port
Unfortunately I don't remember exactly what the spread here was. The item in the lower-left corner was duck prosciutto (I didn't even know you could make prosciutto out of duck!). Also, the cheese on the right was Morbier, a semi-soft cows' milk cheese from France. Morbier is immediately recognizable by the layer of ashes in the middle; the bottom layer consists of the morning milk and the upper layer the evening milk. The other cheese was quite creamy, like a Camembert almost. And of course, there were pieces of garlic and pickles. I believe the provided crackers were Carr's Table Water Crackers.


7: Soufflé
Kir Royale
With Crème Anglaise. The soufflé came as shown in the photo on the left, before our server punched a hole through the top and poured in the crème anglaise, which of course is a light custard made from a mix of sugar, egg yolks and hot milk, often flavored with vanilla. A solid soufflé, but nothing to write home about.

Ratcliffe's emphasis on using local, fresh, and seasonal ingredients really presented itself on the plate and on my palate. I thought the flavors were pure, genuine, and well harmonized with each other. Without a doubt, in my opinion Ratcliffe proved to me that world-class dining in Charlotte is indeed a reality.

Mimosa Grill (Charlotte, NC)

Mimosa Grill
327 S Tryon St, Charlotte, NC 28202
704.343.0700
www.mimosagrill.com
Sun 06/08/2008, 07:55p-09:00p



Opened in 1995, Mimosa Grill describes itself as a fine dining establishment with Southern flair. The restaurant focuses on using regionally grown, seasonal ingredients in what they call a "farm-to-plate" style. Given the limited number of restaurants open on Sunday, Mimosa Grill was a natural choice for my first meal ever in Charlotte.


Located in the Wachovia Atrium in Uptown Charlotte, Mimosa Grill is a rather expansive restaurant with seating for well over 100 patrons. The decor is dark, with plenty of wood and a touch of rusticity, and wouldn't seem out of place at a Claim Jumper. I sat at a table near the bar, which provided me a good view of Game 2 of the Lakers/Celtics finals going on that night (Celtics won 108 to 102).


The menu I was presented with was much smaller than I expected. Perhaps it was an abbreviated menu given that it was Sunday? In any case, an interesting thing of note is the "Sunday Comfort" 3-course prix fix dinner. At only $25, it's a pretty good bargain. Click for larger versions.


Here we have the take-out menu, with a much larger number of items than above. With this expanded selection, I could see Mimosa Grill being a good lunch place. Click for larger versions.


I had to start with a mojito [$7.00], of course. This was actually a very good rendition, well balanced, with neither the rum, sugar, nor mint dominating.


Here we see the wines by the glass on offer, representing a fairly wide spectrum of wines from around the world. Click for larger versions.


However, I decided to go with one of three wine flights offered, the "Crisp and Clean" [$13.00], comprised of the following:

• Whitehaven, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2005 - Lemony and a bit peppery, with medium weight, just what one would expect from a Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc.
• S.A. Prum, Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany, 2005 - A very typical German Riesling, dry but not too much so, with straightforward citrus and stone fruit notes.
• Conundrum, White Blend, California, USA, 2006 - A sweet, floral blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Canelli, Chardonnay and Viognier, with a touch of acidity. Very easy drinking.

The other flights are "Big Reds" (2 California Cabs and a Merlot) and "Chardonnay in 3 Styles" (Burgundy, Oregon, California).


Stuffed Georgia Hushpuppies [$12.00]
Rock Shrimp, Crawfish, Leek Fondue, Creole Sauce. This was actually my first time having hushpuppies, which are small, deep fried pieces of cornmeal. A typical Southern food, hushpuppies are usually eaten with catfish, seafood, or barbecue. Here, they were hollowed out to serve as bowls for the shrimp, not exactly a traditional preparation. This combination worked well enough, though I felt the strong Creole sauce tended to overpower the more delicate flavors of the shrimp. After having this, I now need to sample some real authentic hushpuppies!



Smoked Trout & Crab Cakes [$12.00]
Cast Iron Skillet Corn Relish, Creamy Mustard Sauce. Often times I feel that crab cakes have too much breading and are light on the actual crab. Fortunately that wasn't the case here, with the cakes striking a decent balance between the crab and the filler (they could certainly do better, however). Interestingly, I didn't detect much trout. The cakes came served in two sauces: a corn and okra relish (liked the corn but didn't care for the okra) and a mustard sauce with pickles (way too tart in my opinion).


Nova Scotia Salmon with Asparagus Ribs [$26.00]
Honey Bourbon Glaze, Roasted Mushrooms, Baby Arugula. I requested the salmon be done rare, which turned out to be a mistake. Having the fish cooked through would have been a much better choice. In any case, I felt that the Bourbon glaze was far too strong, and tended to drown out any salmon flavor. The asparagus "ribs" and the mushrooms were tasty, though rather salty.


The dessert and after-dinner drinks selection. Click for larger versions.



Berry Trio [$8.00]
Key Lime and Raspberry Trifle with White Chocolate Shavings; Blackberry Rum Cake and Candied Coconut; Sorbet in a Honey Tuile Basket, Blueberry Sauce, Sugar. The sorbet was nice enough, tart and refreshing, and the addition of the tuile added a nice textural contrast. The rum cake was a bit gruff I thought, though it certainly wasn't bad. The trifle was my favorite item of the trio, with the creaminess of the custard well balanced by the blueberry.

Overall, I found the flavors here to be a bit blunt, lacking in finesse and sharpness so to speak. Though certainly not bad, the food here left me feeling that something was missing. I'm certainly willing to give Mimosa Grill another try, but for now I'll leave the place to the suits at Wachovia.

Gyu-Kaku (Huntington Beach, CA)

Gyu-Kaku
7862 Warner Ave, Huntington Beach, CA 92647
714.842.8333
www.gyu-kaku.com
Tue 06/03/2008, 05:50p-07:15p



Gyu-Kaku is a "yakiniku," or "grilled meat," restaurant where diners cook meat over a gas or charcoal grill. Yakiniku is thus quite similar to the world-famous Korean BBQ, and in fact, is thought to have originated from Korean immigrants in the Kansai area of Japan during the post-war era. In fact, Korean dishes such as nameul and bibimbap are often served alongside the meat. The bibimbap, as it turns out, is what drew us to Gyu-Kaku. Ever since having an amazing bibimbap at Gokoku-Tei restaurant in the Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo, I've been searching for a comparable experience here in the States.


Located near the Comerica Bank tower in Huntington Beach, the restaurant's exterior is rather nondescript.



The interior looks better, with lots of dark wood and dim lighting. Each table has a grill in the center burning Binchotan charcoal, a traditional Japanese charcoal made from ubame oak. Fortunately, the grills are designed in such a way that smoke isn't really a problem.


Once again, I started with a mojito, this time made with shochu, mint, lime, and Sprite. I think this was my first time having a shochu-based mojito, and it was quite delicious actually, with the shochu providing a softer flavor than the typical white rum.


Edamame
In addition to the bibimbap, we ordered a set course menu (the "Geisha" for $68), which kicked off with edamame. Topped with salt, these were quite tasty, though they could've been crisper.


Miso Soup
A miso soup was next. Filled with wakame seaweed and tofu, it wasn't anything special, but wasn't bad at all either.


Gyu-Kaku Salad
Lettuce, shredded Cabbage, Daikon Radish, Red Bell Peppers, Cucumbers, Cherry Tomatoes, Egg with Miso-Mustard dressing. Surprisingly good, the tart dressing did a fine job of tying together and complementing the fresh flavor and refreshing crunch of the veggies.


Garlic Fried Noodles
Okinawan Noodles pan-fried in Garlic Chicken sauce. I'm not sure what exactly was Okinawan about these noodles, but I liked them. The noodles themselves had only a slightly garlicky flavor, and the various ingredients mixed in added some well-placed contrast.


Sukiyaki Bibimba [$7.95]
Beef, Onions & Rice, Sukiyaki style; we also requested that an egg be added. So this was what we were here for. Being done in a "sukiyaki" style, I suspect that the typical sukiyaki ingredients of soy, sugar, and mirin were used in the preparation of this bibimbap, and indeed, the dish did have a subtle sweetness to it. This was also served in the "dolsot" style, which meant that a sizzling stone pot was used, thus ensuring that the rice touching the sides was cooked to a delectable golden crispy brown. So how did it fare? Overall, this was a solid version of bibimbap. The various ingredients melded well enough together, and the addition of hot chili sauce further elevated the dish. However, that being said, the rice was still a bit monolithic here, thus preventing the ingredients from harmonizing as well as they could have. Good, but still not as good as Japan.


Shrimp Garlic (6pc)
Marinated in a Garlic sauce (Fresh Garlic Paste, White Soy Sauce, Sesame Oil). Garlic and shrimp is almost always a winning combination and here was no exception, with the shrimp's mild flavor providing a perfect canvas for the garlic marinade.


Filet Mignon Ponzu (3.5oz)
21-day aged Angus Tenderloin, Ponzu, Salt and Pepper. The filet didn't have that much flavor on its own, so I really appreciated the addition of ponzu, salt, and pepper. Though the meat was quite tender, I wish we would've cooked it a bit rarer.


Kalbi Short Rib Tare (3.5oz)
21-day aged Angus Short Rib, Tare Sweet Soy (Soy Sauce, Fruit Juice, Roasted Garlic), Sesame, Scallion. Kalbi, or galbi, which means "rib" in Korean, is perhaps the most famous staple of Korean BBQ. Typically served on the bone (but not in this instance), kalbi is typically marinated in a mixture of Korean soy sauce (ganjang), garlic, and sugar. Given that, one of my dining companions (who happens to be Korean) said that this wasn't marinated that well. I thought it was decent, but I have had better at Korean BBQ establishments.


Harami Skirt Steak Miso (3.5oz)
21-day aged Angus Skirt Steak, Miso (Red Miso Soy Bean Paste, Sugar), Sesame, Scallion. Harami, or skirt steak, is a cut from the underside of the cow. It's generally considered flavorful but a bit tough, but I didn't think texture was a problem here. The red miso, or akamiso, is one of the most commonly used varieties of miso along with white miso (shiromiso). Together with sugar, it added a mildly sweet flavor to the meat.



Above we see the various ingredients being cooked. We first grilled the shrimp and filet, then the kalbi, the harami, and finally the vegetables.


Japanese Sweet Potato & Asparagus
Unfortunately, no one knew how long to steam the veggies (afterwards, we asked our server and she said two minutes, we must've done ten!), so they ended up overcooked and burnt.


Haitai Melon Chewing Gum
The menu stated that we were supposed to get a dessert of Smores or Banana Chocolate Ice Cream. I don't know if they simply forgot (we certainly did), but we never received any dessert. Instead, we closed out dinner with this delightful melon-flavored chewing gun from Korea.

All in all, I had a fun time at Gyu-Kaku. By no means was I blown away, but the food was decent enough and cooking my own meat does lend a strange sense of satisfaction. As for the reason we came here in the first place, the bibimbap, I must say that although tasty, it still fell short. I'm beginning to think that I'll never find a preparation here in the US that will stand up to the version I experienced in Japan. My kingdom for a good bibimbap!