Water Grill (Los Angeles, CA)

Water Grill
544 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90071
213.891.0900
www.watergrill.com
Sun 08/31/2008, 08:00p-10:35p



This was dinner number four of the 2008 5x5 Chef's Collaborative dinner series, held at Water Grill. My first visit to Water Grill was some years ago, right when then Executive Chef Michael Cimarusti left to start Providence. Thus, in a way it was quite fitting to be back for the 5x5, to have Cimarusti back in the kitchen at Water Grill after all these years.

At each 5x5 dinner, each of the five "core" chefs and one guest chef prepares one dish in a multi-course meal; dessert is made by the pastry chef of the host restaurant. The participating chefs this year are: Gino Angelini (La Terza, Angelini Osteria), Michael Cimarusti (Providence), Josiah Citrin (Melisse), David Lefevre (Water Grill), and Walter Manzke (ex-Bastide). The first of the series was held at Providence. Dinner number two was supposed to be held at Bastide, but was cancelled due to the firing of Executive Chef Walter Manzke. The third was at Melisse, which I had to miss due to work. This was number four, with Giuseppe Tentori of Boka, Chicago. Five is at La Terza (which unfortunately I won't be able to attend), and I've heard rumors that a sixth to replace Bastide will be held at Alain Giraud's Anisette.



Water Grill can be divided into two halves, with one being a dining room (lower right photo) and the other a bar-lounge area where the entrance is located. We were seated at the most north-western table in the restaurant.


The special seven-course 5x5 menu was $150 plus $65 for the optional wine pairing. The menu is signed by all chefs save for Giuseppe Tentori of Boka, who had to attend to an emergency back in Italy. Click for a larger version.


Sourdough, black olive, and French breads were offered, with my favorite being the olive.



Canapés

• Kanpachi with Pineapple and Daikon Chip - The addition of pineapple to the kanpachi made the whole amalgam too sweet for me, as I had difficulty detecting the fish. The daikon really came to the fore, actually too much so for my taste; I would've preferred a thinner chip.
• Risotto Balls with Saffron, Papaya, and Andouille Sausage - When I heard risotto ball, I was expecting something like what I had at The Courtyard; rather, risotto made up the minority of the ball. In any case, the sweet-salty interplay between the papaya and sausage was interesting, though I can't say that I was completely sold.
• Foie Gras with Orange Konjac Jelly and Orange Zest - A very mild piece of foie was highlighted by the subtle sweetness of the orange jelly. The piece of orange zest, meanwhile, added a pronounced tartness to the finish. This was the best of the trio.

Amuse Bouche: Uni with Fennel Sorbet and Tonburi [by David Lefevre of Water Grill]
Bruno Gobillard, Vieilles Vignes, Brut, Champagne, France NV
What I initially mistook for caviar turned out to be tonburi, a type of dried seed from Japan with a texture similar to real caviar; its taste was far less salty I thought though. Nevertheless, the uni was a solid example, though it really melded in with all the other ingredients rather taking center stage. The crispness and mild flavor of the radish salad made a great contrasting accompaniment to the roe.


1: Big Eye Tuna Sashimi [by Giuseppe Tentori of Boka]
Villa Sparina, Gavi di Gavi, Piedmont, Italy 2006
With Petite Mache, Jicima, Watermelon, Pineapple, Quinoa, Overcooked Quail's Egg, and Shellfish Emulsion. This looked like something out of Providence. The use of the various fruits added a touch of sweetness to the fish, which was otherwise quite mild. More importantly, the fish's flavor was not overpowered. I loved the quail egg, and the quinoa was an interesting textural twist.


2: Pan Roasted Sea Scallop [by Michael Cimarusti of Providence]
Hogl, Gruner Veltliner Federspiel, Wachau, Austria 2006
With American Caviar and Yukon Gold Potato. With this dish, Cimarusti doesn't stray too far from convention, or deliciousness. A near-perfectly cooked scallop, elevated by the briny tang of caviar and the zing of lemon, was tempered with bits of potato that added some well-placed crunch. One of my dining companions liked this to a less "melt-in-your-mouth" version of a preparation of scallop at New York's three-star Le Bernardin. Not having had said scallop, I cannot compare, but I had no complaints here.


3: Santa Barbara Spot Prawn Risotto with Asparagus [by Gino Angelini of La Terza and Angelina Osteria]
Jaffurs, Viognier, Santa Barbara, California 2007
The prawn was very tender, too tender in my opinion. It lacked the crispness and bite that I like. The risotto, meanwhile, was done al dente, giving the rice a very pleasant mouthfeel; I liked it better than the prawn. The use of asparagus in the risotto was superb.


4: Roasted John Dory [by Josiah Citrine of Melisse]
Quattro Mani, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Italy 2006
Mushroom Tart, Chorizo-Torpedo Onion Marmalade, Red Wine Mushroom Jus. This was a letdown, as the fish was soft and flaky, but very nondescript and a bit boring. It didn't stand up to the very aggressive sauces on the plate. The mushroom tart was a good attempt to rescue the dish, but it lacked crispness.


5: Hawaiian Mero [by Walter Manzke formerly of Bastide]
Demetria, Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley, California 2005
With Kobe Oxtail and Red Wine Sauce. I was not a fan of the fish. It was rather rubbery and nearly flavorless, reminding me a bit of the sea bass I had at Café Hiro, but worse. Fortunately the rest of the dish was better. To the left we started with celery root topped with bacon and onion. Then there was roasted carrot topped with bone marrow and chive; the carrot was the star here. Finally, we had roasted potato topped with Wagyu oxtail, my favorite item on the plate; the richness of the Wagyu oxtail worked marvelously with the stark simplicity of potato.


6: Yogurt Parfait [by John Park of Water Grill]
Joseph Phelps Eisrébe, Napa Valley, California 2006
With Cherries, White Nectarine Sorbet, and Clementine Sauce. I loved the presentation of the parfait here as a solid block. It's mild acidity made it a great canvas for the rest of the items in the dessert. I especially enjoyed the richness of the cherries and light tartness of the sorbet. Impressive.


Mignardises
A rather large plate was first presented, consisting of churros, Valrhona chocolate shortbread, peanut butter and jelly, pistachio macarons, chocolate macarons, peach petit fours, and chocolate bonbons. Next, we were given chocolate ice cream lollipops à la Michael Mina, which were, of course, delicious.

This was a solid meal, but not up to the level of the 5x5 at Providence. The dishes didn't seem as sharp, as focused, or as bold. And the restaurant itself didn't have the buzz, the excitement of the first meal. It just seemed like dinner as usual, which is unfortunate, as this was indeed a special event. I won't be able to attend the next dinner at La Terza, but hopefully I'll see some of the energy return if the Anisette dinner ever gets off the ground.

Café Hiro (Cypress, CA)

Café Hiro
10509 Valley View St, Cypress, CA 90630
714.527.6090
www.cafehiro.com
Fri 08/29/2008, 07:50p-10:10p



I'd never been to a restaurant quite like Hiro Ohiwa's eponymous eatery, Café Hiro. Ohiwa's menu isn't Japanese; rather, it pays homage to the influx of foreign foods that have made their indelible mark on modern Japanese cuisine. At Café Hiro, diners will find a fanciful fusion of Japanese-, American-, Italian-, French-inspired dishes, which show the depth of Ohiwa's training both in Japan and France, where he worked at a number of Michelin-starred restaurants.


Café Hiro is located in a nondescript strip mall alongside numerous other eateries. Free parking is plentiful.


A mishmash of disparate pieces, the interior decor is eclectic to say the least.



A wide range of dishes are available on the regular menu, which is augmented by a daily specials board. Note the signature of Chef Ohiwa. We ordered a six-course tasting menu for $50. Tasting menus are not normally offered, so it's best to call in advance if one is desired. Click for larger versions.


A small selection of wine, beer, and sake complements the food; we ended up going with a pitcher of Kirin Draft [$13.00]. Click for a larger version.


1: Buffalo Mozzarella and Beet Salad
The mozzarella had a light, creamy body and a slightly tangy flavor; its taste and texture reminded me of Burrata. Though I'm not a huge fan of beets, the use of beets here added a bit of sweetness to the salad, and the radish, while very mild by itself, contributed a satisfying crunchiness to the dish.


2: Grilled Scallops [$7.50]
Asparagus, Yuzu Vinaigrette, Kelp Salt. The scallops had a great texture, and their naturally mild flavor was set of deftly by the addition of yuzu. The asparagus, meanwhile, had a delectable smoky grilled flavor and was a great contrast to the scallop. The salt wasn't absolutely necessary, but when used sparingly, added a touch of saltiness to augment the flavor of the mollusk.


3: Tuna Carpaccio [$9.00]
Fig, Soy Beans, White Miso Sauce, Shiso Oil. I was afraid that the fish would be oversauced, but that simply wasn't the case. The tuna's flavor was indeed mild, but the fig, along with the miso and shiso, imparted their flavor while preserving the character of the fish. The soy beans were a great contrast in texture.


4: Beef Tataki
Australian Wagyu, Anchovy Sauce, Cabbage. Anchovy is a very strongly flavored fish, so the use of anchovy sauce here was a touch overwhelming; I liked the tanginess it added to the beef, but perhaps less would have been more in this case. Nicely seared on the outside but raw on the inside, the Wagyu beef was heavily marbled and thus quite tender, albeit a bit chewy. The cabbage tempered the anchovy flavor, and its crunch added a well placed contrast in consistency.



5: Peking Pork [$8.00]
Steamed Buns, Asian Herb Mix, Hoisin Sauce. Think Peking duck, but substitute pork for duck. The pork itself was ridiculously soft, rich, and quite fatty. Paired with the sweetness of the hoisin and bitterness of spring onion and wrapped in a steamed bun, the combination was superb. Upon biting into the wrapped buns, I had a hard time discerning the actual pork, as it was so tender. After eating this, I was left hankering for some actual Peking duck!


6: Roasted Chilean Sea Bass, Mushroom Risotto [$19.00]
The sea bass, much to my surprise, had a rather hard, flaky texture, and unfortunately, wasn't particularly juicy or flavorful. The risotto wasn't really risotto, but more like a thickened serving of sushi rice prepared in a similar manner; its texture was definitely much softer and stickier than a traditional risotto, which is fairly al dente. Nevertheless, infused with the aroma of mushroom, it was quite delicious.


A picture menu lists the five desserts offered. From what I understand, these rarely, if ever, change. The Blanc-Manger sounded interesting, while the Banana Mille-Feuille was a daily special. Click for a larger version.


7a: Green Tea Blanc-Manger
A blanc-manger, or blancmange, is a sweet dessert made with cream and sugar thickened with gelatin or cornstarch. It can take on many flavors, in this case green tea. I liked how the custard layer actually tasted like matcha, and the layer of red bean on the bottom added some much needed sweetness.


7b: Banana Mille-Feuille [$6.00]
A mille-feuille is a pastry made of layers of puff pastry and sweet custard filling. I didn't think the pastry was anything special, but I did quite enjoy the banana ice cream, with it subtle yet profound banana flavor. This was a great way to end the meal.


Take Out: Chicken Cutlet Curry [$13.00]
Curry Sauce with Tender Chicken Breaded and Fried to a Golden Brown. I wasn't quite full by the end of the tasting menu, so seeing as how I was in the mood for curry, I decided to order some chicken curry to go. Apparently, Hiro's curry sauce is made from scratch; I couldn't tell, but it was as good as any curry I'd had prior.


After our meal, Chef Ohiwa came out to speak with us and sign menus.

After hearing some glowing reviews of the place, I must say that Café Hiro delivers. The restaurant serves up great food in a somewhat unexpected setting, and to top things off, the menu represents a fantastic value as well. Will I be back? You can count on it.

Providence (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

Providence
5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.460.4170
www.providencela.com
Sun 08/24/2008, 06:40p-10:45p



This was my third visit to Providence. For my previous two meals, one of which was a 5x5 chef's collaborative dinner, see here and here.


The menu is split into three tasting menus, market specials, and a selection of à la carte dishes. Unlike at previous visits, we decided to abstain from a set menu. Executive Chef Michael Cimarusti wasn't in, so the signature is of Yu Min Lin, his Chef de Cuisine. Click for larger versions.


For drinks, we wanted to try something new and went with a bottle of Comtesse Michèle Elyzabeth Brut Grand Cru Champagne [$130.00], which I had never heard of before. Made from 100% Chardonnay, the wine had a light, creamy body with intense toasty notes. It's flavor reminded me of an old vintage Champagne such as the 1990 Krug Brut.


We had a choice of three types of bread: focaccia, bacon brioche, and chive brioche. My favorite was the bacon brioche, further bolstering my theory that bacon makes everything better. In addition to butter, salt was also provided for the bread.



Amuse Bouche
Here, we had Tasmanian sea trout with puffed brown rice and a mini mug of fennel soup. The trout was a good imitation of a tuna tartare, and the rice added an excellent texture contrast to the fish. The soup, meanwhile, wasn't nearly as successful; I found its flavor rather strange.


Big Eye Tuna Tartare à la Iron Chef [$46.00]
Red wine and beet marinated heart of palm, quail egg, wasabi crème fraîche, American caviar ($20 supplement). This was a tartare similar to the dish Cimarusti prepared on the television program Iron Chef (Cimarusti, aided by Yu Min Lin and Pastry Chef Adrian Vasquez, prevailed against Morimoto), except that tuna was substituted for blackfish. The tartare was as good as any I'd had before, with the tuna, mild and fresh, heightened by the salty tang of the caviar and richness of the egg yolk. The addition of heart of palm was unnecessary for me.


Lobster Ravioli [$25.00]
Morels, ginger, spring onion. The sweetness of the lobster was really brought to the fore here, while the combination of scallion and ginger resulted in a taste not dissimilar to a Chinese-style jiaozi dumpling. In the context of these lighter flavors, the morels were a bit heavy handed; perhaps shiitakes or shimejis would've been more to my liking.


Japanese Freshwater Eel Risotto [$26.00]
Porcini, tomato, lemon, eel glaze. The eel here was basically akin to Japanese-style preparation of unagi kabayaki, so in a sense this was like a Western interpretation of the classic unadon (eel-topped rice bowl). The eel had its characteristic creamy texture and sweetness thanks to its soy glaze, but was actually overshadowed a bit by the risotto I thought.


Wild Black Sea Bass (Rhode Island) [$40.00]
P.E.I. mussels, Japanese sword squid, red curry, baby bok choy. The sea bass had its distinctive "spongy" texture, which I'm generally not a huge fan of. I did enjoy the taste though, which, due to the red curry, took on an almost Thai-style flavor. The dish was elevated by the addition of mussels, squid, and bok choy, all of which were quite delicious on their own.



Japanese Kobe Rib-Eye [$50.00]
Bacon-parmesan risotto, chanterelle, pomme fondante, spring onions. After having CUT not too long before this meal, it was interesting to compare the steaks. Though the meat wasn't quite as heavily marbled, it was nevertheless very good on its own. The various accoutrements, the pommes fondante (potato cake, which was superb), mushrooms, and onions, managed to pair well with the beef while at the same time not distracting from it. The bacon risotto was excellent (again, bacon makes everything better), though it didn't really fit in with the rest of the course.


Adrian Vasquez's desserts almost always sound interesting. I could see myself coming in just for dessert; I guess that's why a tasting menu is offered (a rarity, TRU is the only other place where I've seen it). Click for larger versions.


Mango [$12.00]
Litchi-pandan sorbet, coconut soup with Thai flavors. Another Thai-style dish, this was reminiscent of the Thai dessert lod chong nam ka ti, or pandan (a plant widely used in Southeast Asian cuisine) flavored rice flour noodles in coconut milk. The mango and litchi added a bit more sweetness, and overall the dish was light and refreshing.


McGrath Family Farms Strawberries [$12.00]
Mochi, red bean purée, shiso, black sesame-soy milk ice cream. I had this same dessert at the 5x5 dinner. Here, Vasquez turns to China and Japan for inspiration. The strawberries, which were quite sweet, would've been overwhelming by themselves. The various accompaniments are ordinary alone, but the interaction of strawberry, mochi, red bean, and sesame is what makes this dish unique.


Mignardises
Caramel, olive oil gelées, and chocolate truffles closed out the meal. The olive oil gelée was especially interesting, as its sweetness was punctuated by the savory flavor of olive oil.

I wasn't terribly impressed on my first visit to Providence, but I was quite satisfied here. For the most part, the dishes were unique and creative in their own right, and showed the pedigree of chef Cimarusti. One thing was I noticed was his heavy incorporation of Asian ingredients and techniques, while not venturing into "fusion" territory. Nicely done. Hopefully on my next visit, I'll finally be able to try the vaunted 16-course Chef's Menu!

Fifth Floor (San Francisco, CA)

Fifth Floor
12 4th St, San Francisco, CA 94103
415.348.1555
www.fifthfloorrestaurant.com
Sat 08/23/2008, 05:20p-07:30p



Unbeknownst to me, Fifth Floor is actually a product of Laurent Manrique, of Aqua and Café de la Presse fame. Manrique serves as the Culinary Director, and thus is largely responsible for creating the Gascon-inspired menu. The idea was to combine the cuisine of Manrique's native Gascony with the local culinary flair of the Bay Area.


Fifth Floor is located, not surprisingly, on the fifth floor of the Palomar Hotel, just south of Market. Street parking was impossible, so I parked in a structure down the street.



Upon entering, you first walk past a long row of tables comprising the 44-seat lounge, flanked by the bar, before entering the main dining room. We were the first ones at the restaurant for dinner (I had a flight to catch later that night).


A six-course tasting menu is available, but we decided to order à la carte, as some of the items looked more appealing. Note the signature of Executive Chef Jennie Lorenzo, a Philippines native with an impressive background working at some of the top restaurants around the globe. Click for larger versions.


Since we were having pretty much all seafood, we chose a Riesling, Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese, Mosel 2006 [$70.00]. The Riesling was exactly what I expected, fresh and light, subtly sweet, with citrus and stone fruit flavors. Our selection was aided by aptly-named Master Sommelier Emily Wines.


A bread cart is a rare sight these days (I think the last one I saw was at Joël Robuchon). Four varieties of bread were available: red wine (my favorite), anise, wheat, and San Francisco roll. A goat cheese butter topped with salt, which went superbly with the red wine bread, complemented a regular butter.



Amuse Bouche

• Rabbit rillette with celery - A rillette is a meat that is slow cooked in fat then made into a paste, similar to a pâté. The resulting taste here was actually quite similar to a chicken salad.
• Bee pollen beignets - I'm not sure what bee pollen is supposed to taste like, but these had an almost Indian curry type of flavor, tempered by some sweetness.
• Cauliflower cream with chicken broth gelée - Bits of cauliflower added some nice textural contrast, but I wasn't sold on the pairing of cauliflower with chicken broth; eating it was a bit disconcerting.

Crabe [$16.00]
Dungeness crab soup with a saffron emulsion. The small mound of crab meat was tasty all by itself, while the addition of the emulsion made the dish almost like a crab bisque. I would've appreciated more crab meat, as the little bit here tended to get lost in the soup. Good, but nothing particularly special.


Thon Basquaise [$15.00]
Marinated cold big eye tuna boulettes filled with pipérade, soft poached quail eggs, preserved tuna "ventrèche" and green olives. Pipérade is a Basque dish made with peppers, onion, and tomatoes sautéed in olive oil. Paired here with the tuna, its sweet yet savory flavor melded perfectly with the fish. This actually reminded me a bit of the tuna crudo at Blanca. My favorite dish of the night.


Aligot [$14.00]
"Fresh dug" potato soup, truffled brie, celery and black summer truffle salad. This was basically an updated version of the classic aligot, a dish traditionally made with mashed potatoes mixed with crème fraîche, garlic, and tomme d'Auvergne cheese. The hearty richness of the potato soup was further bolstered by the addition of truffle and brie. Although the result was perhaps a bit heavy, I think the combination worked well.


Poulpe aux Crevettes [$15.00]
Grilled octopus and black tiger shrimp salad, sunchoke confit, black olive and berber spice vinaigrette. I quite enjoyed the octopus and shrimp here, both of which had a delectable, cool, fresh crispness. Texture wise, they were similar yet at the same time just different enough, with the octopus being more resilient. Berber spice is an African spice mix commonly used with meat dishes, but here it gave the mild flavor of the duo a nice kick.


St. Jacques et Tomates [$16.00]
Scallops with marinated heirloom tomatoes, lemon verbena vinaigrette and purslane. The scallops, served slightly chilled, had a very nice texture and paired well with the tart lemon verbena vinaigrette. The tomatoes were also delicious, juicy and full of flavor. However, the pairing of scallop and tomato in this form didn't really work with me. The two seemed like disparate elements and never really integrated into a cohesive dish.


Escalope de Bar Blanc [$32.00]
Pan fried white sea bass with Mediterranean mussel escebeche, shisito peppers. This was the only entrée we ordered, and unfortunately it was a bit of a disappointment. The fish itself was very nondescript, and to exacerbate the issue, the way it was cooked was rather boring as well. The addition of mussels and shisitos was a nice attempt to liven up the dish, but even they fell flat in that context.


Selection of Cheese [$18.00]
Three cheeses, served with almonds, honeycomb, fig and data cake, quince, and brioche. From left to right, we have:

• Manchego - Arguably Spain's most famous cheese, Manchego is a semi-firm sheep's milk cheese from the La Mancha region. Manchego is aged in natural caves for two to six months, the longer aging imparting a stronger flavor. The example here was fairly mild, though still delicious.
• Ossau-Iraty - A French cheese made from sheep's milk, Ossau-Iraty is produced in south-western France, in the Pyrénées. It's a medium-firm cheese with a very smooth texture and delicate flavor, with a tinge of nuttiness.
• Bucheret - From Redwood Hill Farm & Creamery in Healdsburg (the home of Cyrus), Bucheret is a rich, dense, creamy cheese with a bit of tanginess. I thought it was the most complex of the trio, as well as my favorite.

The dessert menu lists a number of intriguing selections. There's also a surprisingly large collection of after-dinner drinks presented. Click for larger versions.


Soufflé Framboise-Cassis [$14.00]
Raspberry-cassis soufflé, banyuls infused red berries. I'm not usually a huge soufflé fan, but the addition of berries here added a fantastic bit of tartness to an otherwise pedestrian soufflé. Quite nice.


Barre au Chocolat [$12.00]
Valrhona cake, praline crunch, dark chocolate mousse, gianduja ice cream. The chocolate cake had just the right amount of sweetness, which was balanced by a bit of bitterness, and the praline added a great textural contrast to the dessert, as to prevent it from becoming too monolithic. Finally, gianduja is a preparation of chocolate containing about 50% hazelnut, and the sweet nuttiness provided by the ice cream really worked well here. Superb.


Mignardises
A few nice bites to close out the meal.

Fifth Floor was a good meal, but unexceptional. Though there were a few standout dishes, such as the tuna and the chocolate, the meal left me wanting a bit more boldness. A one-star Michelin rating is reasonable, but there was a world of difference in cooking between Fifth Floor and the two-star rated Restaurant at Meadowood, which I dined at the night earlier.

The Restaurant at Meadowood (St Helena, CA)

The Restaurant at Meadowood
900 Meadowood Ln, St Helena, CA 94574
707.967.1205
www.meadowood.com/winecuisine/the-restaurant/
Fri 08/22/2008, 05:50p-07:50p



Ever since its garnering of a two-star rating in the Michelin guide, The Restaurant at Meadowood had on my to-eat list in the Northern California region. The Restaurant offers refined Napa wine country cuisine, focused on ingredients sourced as locally as possible, prepared to let their natural flavor shine through.


The Restaurant had no signage displayed, causing me to inadvertently wander into a wedding that was in progress nearby.


The interior is light and airy, with a slightly rustic charm. Large windows flood the room with light and offer a glimpse of the lush surroundings. Seating is also offered on an outside terrace deck.


Standard four- or five-course prix fix menus are offered, or one may spring for the Tasting Menu like I did, at $155 plus an additional $95 for wine. Note the signature of Executive Chef Christopher Kostow, formerly of Chez TJ (Kostow is credited for turning that restaurant around and achieving its two-star rating). Click for larger versions.


A tightly focused wine by the glass list is offered, with prices on the high side. Click for a larger version.


Sadly, only one type of bread was available. This was disappointing, especially for a two-star establishment. I don't except a Robuchon-level assortment, but three or four varieties would be nice.




Canapés
A quartet of canapés to kick things off. Left to right, we have: (1) turnip with salt and olive oil; (2) I believe this was some sort of cheese, but unfortunately I don't exactly recall what; (3) quail egg topped with what looks like fish roe; and (4) scallop ball with chive. They were nothing mind-blowing but each had its own unique charm.


Amuse Bouche: Summer Squash Consommé, Cucumber, Tomato
The squash consommé had a bracing tartness and acidity to it, which tended to draw out the flavors of the accompanying ingredients. Quite refreshing and true to the name amuse bouche in awakening and arousing the palate.


1: Cold Smoked Toro and Osetra Caviar
Crème Fraîche, Spring Onion, Warm Brioche. A beautiful, visually striking dish, the tuna itself was of medium fattiness I thought (probably a good thing here, as super-fatty toro would likely overpower the dish), and had a very soft, yielding consistency with virtually no tendon. Its mild flavor was drawn out successfully by the salty tang of caviar and richness of the crème fraîche. The brioche was largely unnecessary.


2: Foie Gras and Strawberries
There were actually four distinct preparations of foie on the plate, which unfortunately I can't recall the exact details of. On the left, we start with a terrine de foie gras; eaten with strawberries, it was one of the best preparations of foie since French Laundry. Next, covered by cocoa foam, was a fantastic, thin, rolled foie gras unlike any I'd ever had before (it was almost cheese-like). Then we have another pâté, sweeter and richer than the first, followed by a seared preparation, which was the weakest of the quartet.


3: Japanese Pike Mackerel
Yellow Gazpacho Sorbet, Celery. I don't get to have cooked mackerel often, but the pieces of fish were wonderfully crisp and salty. Thus the contrast provided by the cool, tart sorbet and celery proved to be an interesting interplay between taste, texture, and temperature.


4: Lobster and Sweetbread
Morels, Turnip, Summer Truffle. First of all, the lobster was very well cooked, as to really retain its natural flavor and texture. Add to that the saltiness of the sweetbreads and morels, then the pungent earthiness of truffle, and you get a dish that's almost too luxurious. I was afraid the foam would overpower but fortunately it sort of bound all the flavors together. Very nice.


5: Sonoma Poussin
Cockles, Chorizo, Haricot Vert. Poussin is another name for Cornish game hen, which isn't game, but just a young chicken. Never mind the name, this was some of the best poultry I'd ever tasted, so flavorful, so juicy, yet delicate at the same time. I thought it'd be overshadowed by the chorizo (which was superb), but the poussin was really the star of this dish. The cockle was a tasty morsel but a bit redundant.


6: Slow Cooked Beef Tenderloin
Pearl Barley, Porcini, Oxtail Broth. The meat's consistency was quite unlike other tenderloins I've had, cut-with-a-fork soft and very juicy. Its flavor was quite mild however, which made the beef a good canvas for the pungent aroma of truffle and savory nature of the oxtail broth. Delicious.


7: Fresh Andante Dairy Goat Cheese
Peaches, Olive Oil. The cheese was actually very mild, with only a slight tanginess and pleasant, smooth texture. It really let the other ingredients take center stage. I would've preferred a larger selection of cheese however.


Pre-Dessert: Plum Sorbet, Yogurt, Citrus Soda
The soda dissipated quite quickly, leaving a layer of the sweeter sorbet topped with a cool yogurt. A nice segue into dessert.



8: Milk Chocolate Soufflé
Earl Grey Tea Ice Cream. After having all the savory dishes, I expected something a bit more unique for dessert. Yes, the tea-flavored ice cream was a nice twist, but this didn't seem up to the level of the other dishes.


Mignardises
Some nice treats to round out the meal: raspberry marshmallow, lemon curd, raspberry filled bonbon.

Food wise, I'd say that The Restaurant is top notch. Many of the items I had would not seem out of place at Mr. Keller's place 10 miles south. In that sense, the awarding of two Michelin stars is definitely warranted, even more so than with Cyrus. My only real quibble was with service, and not actually the service during my meal. Notice that although I did order the wine pairing, I have listed no wines on this blog. That's because the sommelier (Andrew was his name I believe) has not provided me a listing of the wines, and this despite me calling the restaurant afterwards requesting it again. Nevertheless, the food was good enough to counter such a falter, and I look forward to visiting again. If any wine country restaurant is to challenge the Laundry in the vaunted three-star hierarchy, could Meadowood be the one?

The Red Grape (Sonoma, CA)

The Red Grape
529 1st St W, Sonoma, CA 95476
707.996.4103
www.theredgrape.com
Wed 08/20/2008, 06:35p-08:20p



The Red Grape focuses on New Haven-style pizza (pizza with a super thin crispy crust baked in stone-lined ovens at very high temperatures) topped with local ingredients. I was brought here for a casual pre-wedding friends and family dinner.


The Red Grape is located in a quaint-looking building just steps from the historic Sonoma Plaza.


Though The Red Grape offers plenty of indoor seating, the wedding party was seated in the restaurant's outdoor patio area.


The restaurant offers a wide selection of pizzas, but the group menu was much more limited in scope unfortunately. Click for a larger version.



The Red Grape's wine list is quite nice, and focuses on local producers. To start, I had a glass of Prosecco "Contessa Giulia", Montressor, Italy [$7.25], an easy-drinking, light, floral and fruity sparkler. Next, to go with my pizza, I chose a Rosé, 2007 B.R. Cohn Winery, San Luis Obispo County [$7.00]. The wine is produced in a Rhone style, and contains Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre. A rather sweet wine, I noted tons of stone fruit leading to a long, spicy finish with a bit of heat. Click for larger versions.


The bread was a huge disappointment. Stale, cold, and boring, it was left untouched for good reason.


Garlic Knots [$7.25]
Baked pizza dough stuffed with roasted garlic and herbs served with a ranch dipping sauce. I loved the texture of the knots, but eaten by themselves, they were a bit too garlicky for me. Fortunately the ranch did a good job preventing the garlic from becoming overwhelming.


Pears and Gorgonzola Pizza [$11.75]
D'anjou pears, hazelnuts, applewood smoked bacon and gorgonzola. Gorgonzola is an Italian blue cheese which is usually quite salty and strong in flavor. Paired with the bacon, the pizza had considerable saltiness, but the pears countered that with a tart sweetness. This balance and contrast made the pizza work for me.


BBQ Chicken Pizza [$13.75]
Grilled chicken, applewood smoked bacon, BBQ sauce, red onion, garlic, mozzarella and gouda cheese. Though very tender, the chicken was perhaps a bit too sweet, but I did enjoy the flavor pairing provided by the bacon and onion. One of my dining companions compared this to California Pizza Kitchen's version, but not quite as good.


Sonoma Pizza [$13.75]
Pepperoni, sweet Italian sausage, sautéed mushrooms, and red onion with pepper jack cheese. This was the pizza I ordered for myself. The slight sweetness of the sausage eaten with the mushroom and onion really worked for me. My favorite pizza of the night.


Mediterranean Pizza [$12.95]
Artichoke hearts, plum tomatoes, kalamata olives, red onion, and feta with pesto. One of my dining companions ordered this but unfortunately I didn't get to try a slice.


Carrot Cake [$5.95]
One of my issues with carrot cakes is that they can be excessively sweet, mostly due to the frosting. Fortunately, that wasn't the case here, as the frosting was delightfully light and didn't overpower the cake portion itself. One of the best carrot cakes I've had, though not as good as the one I had recently at Joe's.

I'm a big fan of thin, crispy crusts and thus the pizzas here appealed to me in that sense. One problem I noticed though is that the pizzas tended to get soggy quickly if not eaten. Overall however, I liked The Red Grape; the various pizzas offered seem interesting to me, and if I lived in Sonoma, I'd probably come here often to try all the varieties!

Sushi Wave (Costa Mesa, CA)

Sushi Wave
2075 Newport Blvd, Costa Mesa, CA 92627
949.722.8736
www.sushi-wave.com
Tue 08/19/2008, 07:25p-08:30p



Ah, Sushi Wave. This was where, many years ago, I had my first taste of "decent" sushi. As such, the place has always held a special significance for me. I'd probably been here near half a dozen times, but it had been about two years since my last visit, so I figured it was about time to go back. How would Sushi Wave hold up, given that, in the meantime, I had tried numerous other sushi joints? That I had tried sushi in Japan? That I had tried Urasawa?


Located next to a Radio Shack in a rather depressing strip mall off the 55 freeway, Sushi Wave is pretty nondescript.


The restaurant was surprisingly empty when we arrived. This was a bit disconcerting, as previously we'd never been able to dine here without a significant wait. There are about eight tables and seating for about a dozen at the bar. We sat at a table, as we'd done in the past; it's interesting to note that we'd never sat at the bar before.


In addition to the standard selection of nigiri, a decent selection of rolls and other miscellaneous items are available. Fortunately the rolls don't seem too outlandish, save for the "Jumbo Jack" hand roll. Note that compared to the Sushi Wave web site, prices are considerably higher. But prices wouldn't really matter as much tonight, as we decided to go omakase for $40 per person. The waitress seemed perplexed when we asked for such a thing, which didn't really lend much confidence. Click for a larger version.


The drinks list contains a fairly standard selection of beer, wine, and sake. We started with a 300mL bottle of Hakkaisan Junmai Ginjo [$27.00], which I was a bit surprised to see on the list. I had actually visited the Hakkaisan brewery on my trip to Japan earlier in the year. Once the sake was finished, we moved on to a large Asahi [$5.90]. Click for a larger version.


To begin, we were brought edamame and a bowl containing wasabi and gari (pickled ginger). The edamame were passable but lacked crispness, while the wasabi was obviously imitation and the gari artificially colored a neon orange.


After some delay, the first plate of sushi was brought out. We were hoping that the pieces would come out individually à la Sushi Wasabi, but then again, even Urasawa sends out the sushi on platters if you're unlucky enough to have to sit at the table there.


1: Hamachi/Yellowtail [$3.50]
This was a fairly standard yellowtail, nice texture and not overly unctuous. Very easy to eat.


2: Hamachi Belly/Yellowtail Belly [$MP]
The belly of hamachi, indeed a bit fattier than the cut above, with a slightly softer texture as well.


3: Maguro/Tuna [$3.50]
This was a decent cut of tuna, with a mild taste and a clean texture.


4: Toro/Fatty Tuna [$MP]
The toro had a good amount of fattiness and oiliness when I bit into it, but the presence of tendon made the fish quite tough to chew.


Our second platter of sushi came with a special ponzu dipping sauce for the whitefish.


5: Tai/Red Snapper [$3.95]
Tai is generally one of my favorites when it comes to whitefish, and this had a nice, subtle flavor but was perhaps a bit dry.


6: Hirame/Halibut [$MP]
Good texture, and quite similar to the tai above. Hirame and tai are often served together, as at Sushi Sasabune and Go's Mart.


7: Mirugai/Geoduck [$5.50]
The mirugai actually had a very good texture to it with a slight ocean-y flavor and a subtle sweetness. This compares favorably to most any of the other preparations I've had.


8: Awabi/Abalone [$4.50]
This was way too tough and crunchy in my opinion, resulting in me focusing just on getting the piece down rather than on the taste. The best awabi sushi I've had is still at Go's Mart.


9: Unagi/Freshwater Eel [$3.50]
Rather rich, creamy, and quite sweet with the sauce, this was exactly what I expect unagi to taste like. Interestingly, in Japan I found out that unagi is generally not served in Edo-style sushi, since it's considered too oily compared to its saltwater counterpart, anago.


10: Tamago/Egg [$2.50]
A very sweet, soft, fluffy version of tamago. It was actually pretty good. I still maintain that my best tamago ever was at Natori.


Supplement: Saba/Japanese Mackerel [$MP]
As one might expect with mackerel, this turned out to be quite fishy, but the taste was well tempered with the ponzu sauce provided earlier.


Supplement: Sawara/Spanish Mackerel [$MP]
Compared to the saba above, this was actually very mild in flavor. The topping of scallion and ginger went beautifully with the fish.


Supplement: Sake/Salmon [$3.25]
The salmon would have been quite solid on its own, but the addition of the katsuobushi (dried bonito shavings) topping gave the fish a smoky taste which definitely elevated it to another level.


Supplement: Crunchy Roll [$6.95]
Regular readers will know that I generally shun maki sushi rolls. But, like Sushi Wave itself, the Crunchy Roll holds a special significance, as it's the roll that was ordered on my first and all subsequent visits. It's basically a roll consisting of imitation crab, avocado, and tempura shrimp, topped with tempura flakes and eel sauce. On this occasion, it was pretty much the same as I remembered, though perhaps the tempura topping was a bit harder than before. Simply eating the topping along with the sweet sauce was enjoyable by itself.


Supplement: Amaebi/Sweet Shrimp [$5.50]
The raw shrimp had a nice creamy texture but the flavor was marred by a slightly bitter aftertaste. The deep fried heads were quite delicious however.

Surely, Sushi Wave pales in comparison when compared to many of the sushi places I've been to in recent years. That's not to say that the place is bad. In fact, the fish here is quite palatable and I think Sushi Wave is still tops when it comes to "cheap" sushi. I wouldn't go for the omakase though. It will never be my regular place as it had been in the past, but I'm sure I'll be heading back here in the future. Just give me two more years.

Marché Moderne (Costa Mesa, CA)

Marché Moderne
3333 Bristol St, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714.434.7900
www.marchemoderne.net
Sun 08/17/2008, 07:00p-09:45p



Fine dining in a mall? Generally not a good sign, except when the mall in question is South Coast Plaza, arguably the premier shopping center in the country (and certainly tops when it comes to gross revenue). Housed in the old Troquet (from famed OC restaurateurs Tim and Liza Goodell) space, Marché Moderne ("modern market") is indeed a modern take on the French bistro. Its chef/owner is none other than Florent Marneau, who was previously the Executive Chef at Pinot Provence (part of the Patina Group). Before that, he was at Patina proper, Aubergine (the Goodell's former flagship in Newport Beach), and Pascal. Wife Amelia serves as pastry chef.


Marché Moderne is one of the few establishments (along with Canali, Christian Louboutin, Oscar de la Renta, and St. John) on the mall's third floor "Penthouse", near the Nordstrom wing.


The dining room is French in style, while being quite comfortable and inviting. A row of banquettes dominates the room, while a small bar sits in one corner; nearly everyone has a view of the open kitchen and wood-burning oven.


The menu is fairly diverse, with a wide variety of interesting starters and mains. We chose the 5-course tasting menu at $79, together with appropriate wine pairings; the rightmost photo is the special menu that the restaurant typed up at our request. Click for larger versions.


The wines by the glass list provides a good selection of mostly French wines. I appreciate the offering of smaller 3-ounce tasting portions. Click for larger versions.


As usual, I started with my mojito [$13.00]; it was a decent example, a bit tarter than normal, with the mint perhaps not apparent enough. My dining companion chose a cucumber gimlet with Grey Goose [$11.00], which I thought was quite delicious, albeit very cucumber-y.


Cheese bread and traditional baguette were the two breads on offer.


Amuse Bouche: Paprika Marinated Tuna
The paprika imparted a bit of kick to the tuna, which was nicely tempered by the subtle sweetness of the ginger-carrot-apple sauce.


1: Hamachi Sashimi
Champagne, Nicolas Feuillate Brut, Chouilly Epernay, NV [$15.00]
Sumer watermelon, watermelon-yuzu emulsion, lemon and soy oil, micro tangerine. The hamachi was good enough to have stood on its own, but I was initially a bit concerned about all the flavors that were going on here (bad memories from Charlie Palmer perhaps). My fears were unfounded however, as the watermelon just added a touch of sweetness, along with a pleasing textural contrast, and the sauce didn't overpower. Unfortunately I wasn't a huge fan of the paired Champagne, which I found a bit harsh.


2: Alaskan Halibut
Chardonnay, Neyers, Carneros District, 2006 [$9.00]
Beet and balsamic purée, McGrath Family Farms baby beets, brown butter and balsamic foam. Halibut has always been one of my favorite types of fish, especially in a fully cooked preparation. Here it did not disappoint; the fish's consistency was spot on, flaky on the bottom yet crispy up top, while the flesh was wonderfully cooked, juicy, and powerful in flavor. I could've done without the beets however, as they only tended to distract from the natural flavor of the halibut.


3: Seared Foie Gras
Sauternes, Chateau Lamothe Guignard, Bordeaux, 2003 [$12.00]
Grapefruit marmalade, crispy farinette, tarragon grapefruit salad. With grapefruit both on top and on the bottom, I thought this preparation of foie gras was overly sweet. Especially when paired with the Sauternes, this sweetness completely overpowered my palate. A bit lacking in finesse perhaps. Of note, a farinette is a pancake- or omelet-style item from France, typically made with egg, flour, and milk. I'd like to try a version by itself, as the farinette here was lost in the foie gras.


Supplement: Italian Tart [$16.00]
Bourgogne, Maison Leroy, Burgundy, 2001 [$11.00]
Asparagus, Burrata, La Quercia prosciutto Piccante, soft poached farm egg, tarragon mousseline. La Quercia is a producer in Iowa that provides quality cured meats to a number of leading restaurants. The prosciutto Piccante here had a bit of spice to it, which formed a great interplay with the other, milder ingredients in the tart. I loved the creamy contrast to the crisp crust provided by the combination of Burrata, egg, and mousseline.


Supplement: Echire Butter Sautéed Langoustine [$27.00]
Pinot Noir, Adelsheim, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2006 [$9.00]
Sautéed Oregon porcini mushroom, cold truffle emulsion. Also known as the Norway lobster, langoustine is fairly comparable in taste to the typical American and European varieties, but I'd say that the flesh is perhaps a bit richer and heavier in flavor. In any case, the langoustines themselves were quite tasty, though a tad overpowered by the porcinis. Unfortunately the truffles here weren't nearly apparent enough in my opinion.


4: Duck en Croute
Pessac-Leognan, Chateau La Font Menaut, Bordeaux, 2001 [$14.00]
Duck breast, morel mushrooms, duck jus, foie gras and confit duxelles, red wine sauce. Unfortunately I thought the duck was a bit overcooked and thus rather tough and weak in flavor. The morels, and to a lesser extent the duxelles, sort of took center stage away from the duck, which shouldn't have been the case.


Supplement: Cheese [$15.00]
Tawny Port, Graham's 20 Year Old, NV [$11.00]
Four varieties, in very generous portion sizes, served with honey comb, grape on the vine, candied pecans, and baguette (left to right):

• Beemster XO (26 months cow's milk, Holland) - A hard, crumbly cheese, with a sharp, slightly nutty flavor, this almost reminded me of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
• Tomme de Savoie (cow's milk, France) - A semi-firm cheese from the French Alps, Tomme de Savoie is made from the skim milk left over after the cream has been removed, and as a result, is low in fat with a mild, nutty flavor.
• Explorateur (cow's milk, France) - Named after the US spacecraft Explorer, Explorateur is a triple cream cheese from Ile-de-France with a fat content of roughly 75%. The cheese had a smooth, light appearance with a rich, pungent, salty taste.
• Saint-Agur (cow's milk, creamy, rich blue, France) - Saint-Agur is made from pasteurized cow's milk, enriched with cream, and contains 60% fat. A double cream, the cheese was rich, spicy, and a bit salty.

5: Quartet of Desserts

• Pineapple upside down Financier - A financier is a light tea cake from France, often topped with fruit, in this case pineapple. Tasty but forgettable.
• Crème brûlée - The "crème brûlée" was pretty much a smear of caramelized custard on the plate, so there wasn't much to go off of here.
• Apricot ice cream - This had a very nice intense, yet light, apricot flavor.
• White sangria with lychee and blueberries - Very tart and a overpowered by the apricot liqueur.

Chef Marneau wasn't in on this particular night, but we did get to tour the kitchen with his chef de cuisine. Unfortunately I can't recall his name.

I was a bit skeptical going in, but in my opinion, Marché Moderne has firmly established itself as one of Orange County's top dining destinations. While we may mourn the loss of eateries such as Troquet, Aubergine, and Gustaf Anders in the past several years, Marché Moderne is well positioned to create a new standard of culinary excellence in the county, and I look forward to it.

CUT (Beverly Hills, CA) [2]

CUT
9500 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310.276.8500
www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/finedining/cut/beverlyhills/
Sat 08/16/2007, 05:40p-07:55p



On my first post about CUT, I gave a brief overview of the decor. So with that out of the way, we'll get straight into the vittles (also check out CUT Las Vegas).


A meal at CUT always begins with a tableside presentation of meat. Here, we see filet mignon, New York, and rib eye, with the American steaks draped in white and Japanese cuts in black. Note how much more marbling the Japanese steaks have, and also how the marbling is actually finer and more integrated into the meat.


I had a great mojito last time I was here, so I decided to mix it up this time with a Tom Collins. A sweeter example than normal, it was nevertheless quite delicious.


Aside from a few minor additions, the menu hadn't really changed from my last visit, which is a bit unfortunate. I understand there's not much one can do with the steaks, but how about changing up the apps? We also have the dessert menu and wine by the glass list shown. Click for larger versions.


However, we decided to eschew the by the glass list and went for a couple bottles:

• NV Camille Savès Champagne Brut Rosé [$110.00] - I always like to start with a sparkler, so I decided to go with something new that I hadn't tried before. The Camille Savès was fruitier than most of its kind, but at the same time refreshingly dry with a tinge of minerality and mild acidity. Very easy to drink, this went over well with everyone, including those in my party who normally don't like Champagne.
• 2005 Dominio Pingus Flor de Pingus [$140.00] - A Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero, Spain. Blackberry, chocolate, and earth dominate here. Quite drinkable now but may improve with a bit of age. This stood up nicely to the steak.

As before, we started with some breadsticks and some fantastic, still-hot gougères.


Four types of bread were offered: pumpernickel, whole wheat, pretzel (my favorite), and onion focaccia. All except the whole wheat were present on my last visit.


Bone Marrow Flan, Mushroom Marmalade, Parsley Salad [$17.00]
I was originally planning to go with the steak sashimi, but our server recommended this instead. Served in the bone, the flan wasn't anything particularly unique; it was like a hot beef crème brûlée. Everybody seems to rave about this dish, but I don't get it.


Prime Sirloin "Steak Tartare", Herb Aioli, Mustard [$22.00]
I had this on my last visit, and once again, it did not disappoint. I enjoyed the meat by itself, but the minced sirloin formed the perfect canvas for the tanginess of the aioli and mustard. Still one of the best steak tartares around in my opinion.


Tempura Chesapeake Bay Soft Shell Crab, Peperonata, Lemon-Fennel Chutney, Harissa Aioli [$26.00]
My last soft shell crab experience at Joe's was a disappointment, so I was wary of ordering it again here. Fortunately, this was a much better preparation, with a nice crispy texture and more substantial portions of actual meat. The harissa was a nice accoutrement to the crab as well. I'm still not sold on the whole concept of soft shell crab though.


Warm Veal Tongue, Marinated Artichokes, Cannellini Beans, "Salsa Verde" [$16.00]
This was the surprise of the night. Tongue doesn't necessarily sound appetizing to most, but here it was actually very good. Served cold, the meat was quite tender and had a nice "beefy" flavor to it, which was set off nicely by the "salsa verde."


For $130, CUT now offers a New York steak sampler on the menu, consisting of 2 oz of Japanese Wagyu, 4 oz of American Wagyu, and 4 oz of dry aged. If you run the calculations based of the menu prices for the three steaks, it turns out that the sampler is a rather poor value:

$120 / (6 oz/2 oz) + $75 / (8 oz/4 oz) + $59 / (14 oz/4 oz) = $40.00 + $37.50 + $16.86 = $94.36

So you're basically paying $130 for $94.36 worth of steak; it's thus more cost effective to order the steaks separately and split them. So like last time, we decided to construct our own sampler, made up of all four types of New York, as well as the Japanese filet thrown in for good measure. All steaks were ordered medium rare, the optimal temperature in my opinion.


U.S.D.A. Prime, Illinois Corn Fed, Aged 21 Days, Bone In New York Sirloin 20 Oz [$56.00]
This is your standard wet-aged steak that you would find at a typical high-end chain steakhouse. Actually, I'd venture to say that it's quite a bit better than what you'd get at Ruth's/Morton's/Fleming's. I'd be very happy just with this, but it was overshadowed by some of the other cuts.


U.S.D.A. Prime, Nebraska Corn Fed, Dry Aged 35 Days, New York Sirloin 14 Oz [$59.00]
Dry aging is basically a process of controlled rotting that concentrates the flavor of the meat. The result is a richer, beefier taste compared to the cut above, but at a higher cost since much of the meat must be thrown away. Note the increased marbling as well.


American Wagyu / Angus "Kobe Style" Beef From Snake River Farms, Idaho, New York Sirloin 8 Oz [$75.00]
Upgrading to the American Wagyu results in a big jump in price as well as marbling. A lot of people find this to be a happy medium between a standard steak and the over-the-top Japanese varieties. However, I actually preferred the texture of the steaks above and thus, found this to be the weakest steak of the quintet. This was surprising, as it was not the case on my last visit.


True Japanese 100% Wagyu Beef From Saga Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan, New York Sirloin 6 Oz [$120.00]
Now here's what we came for. Note the incredible amount of marbling in the meat, resulting in a somewhat gelatinous texture to the steak. The grain of the meat also looks quite different, being less "directional." Ridiculously tender, the steak oozes juices as you chew the meat. It's truly a steak unlike any other. One of my dining companions, who'd never tasted true Wagyu before, literally described the experience as "orgasmic."


True Japanese 100% Wagyu Beef From Saga Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan, Filet Mignon 6 Oz [$130.00]
Last time, we added on a Japanese rib eye, which kicked up the marbling a further notch. This time, we had the filet, which was a bit less fatty than the New York, but still amazing. In fact, I actually preferred this slightly less unctuous cut, as it was a bit more tender as well.


Dark Chocolate Soufflé, Whipped Crème Fraîche, Gianduja Ice Cream [$14.00]
We ordered the soufflé on our last visit as well, and this version was nearly identical. Gianduja is a sweet chocolate containing about 50% hazelnut, while the ice cream here of the same name originates in Switzerland. I'm not typically a fan of soufflés, but I did enjoy this. It was light, fluffy, and the trio of accoutrements served their roles well.


Chocolate Chiffon Cake, Milk Chocolate Mousse, Coffee Ice Cream [$14.00]
Though similar in appearance to the Chocolate Pudding Cake we had last time, this dessert was actually much lighter. A chiffon cake is a very light, sponge-like cake. These layers, when alternated between the milk chocolate mousse, provided a very pleasing texture to the dessert. The coffee ice cream, meanwhile, proved to be a great complement.

Though not quite as stellar as last time, CUT once again delivers. My only real quibble would be for some more variety in the appetizer portion of the menu; keep the steaks the same! Nevertheless, for my uninitiated dining companions, CUT opened their eyes to what a steak could be (Ruth's Chris will never seem quite as good anymore). And as for me, CUT simply reaffirmed its position at the top of the steakhouse hierarchy.

Capo (Santa Monica, CA)

Capo
1810 Ocean Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.394.5550
www.caporestaurant.com
Wed 08/13/2008, 07:45p-10:45p



 


Located on Ocean Avenue near the beach, Capo is housed in a rather nondescript gray building, almost like it's trying to remain a bit hidden. Valet parking is provided right in front.



Behind two sets of black curtains, the interior is dimly lit, with lots of wood and some interesting art pieces adorning the walls. The overall effect is warm and welcoming. The bar occupies nearly an entire side of the room, while a wood-burning oven sits in one corner.



I apologize for the bluriness, as a lone candle was about all I had to work with in terms of lighting. Capo presents a surprisingly large breadth of menu items, along with surprisingly high prices. Given that, we chose to do the eight-course Tasting Menu [$98.00], comprised of specials as well as standard menu items. Interestingly, given my party of three, we were presented with basically a three-way tandem tasting menu, which meant each of us got to try a large number of items. I would've appreciated more details on the various menu items though, as simply listing "Duck" doesn't tell me much. Click for larger versions.


Capo didn't have any mint in the house, so my usual mojito wasn't an option. Thus, I went to my backup choice as of late, a Tom Collins [$11.00], which turned out to be arguably the best I've had, with just the perfect combination of sweet and sour. For the meal, we went with two bottles of wine:

• 2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut [$188.50] - From my personal cellar. Great nose, very floral and aromatic, with a bit of toast. Fantastic bubbles. Not as smooth or creamy as my favorite, the 2000 vintage, but very good and very drinkable, even at its relatively young age.
• 2004 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva [$70.00] - Initial notes of cherry, chocolate, and graphite lead to hints of spice, bolstered by substantial acidity and a bit of heat on the finish. Firm, but not overpowering tannins that will likely temper down with bottle age. Quite nice.

A few types of bread were offered, with my favorite being the crispy flatbread. The dip (not sure what it was, reminded me of hummus though) was delicious, but the breads stood on their own.


1a: Quattro Formaggi Ravioli
"Quattro Formaggi" means "four cheese," so I wonder what the four were. Tasty, and very cheesy, but fairly typical.


1b: Kabocha Ravioli
Kabocha is a Japanese variety of winter squash with a very sweet flavor. It was actually too much so for me in this instance, as the sweetness tended to dominate all the other flavors of the ravioli.


1c: Spinach and Ricotta Ravioli
My favorite of the ravioli trio, the spinach worked beautifully with the ricotta's slightly sweet, nutty flavor.


2a: Scallops, Black Truffles, Linguine
A great dish. The scallops were cooked superbly, with a slightly charred outside giving way to a soft, creamy interior, all the while maintaining the scallop's mild flavor. To this canvas, the truffle then added just the right amount of gravity and earthiness.


2b: Grilled Scampi
I only got to try a small piece of this, but found it outstanding. The flesh was lightly cooked, and quite soft, almost creamy, with a touch of char. It sort of reminded me of the grilled shrimp I had at Go's Mart.


2c: Bluefin Tuna Carpaccio "à la Mexicana"
Chopped tomato, onion, and chiles, lime juice, cilantro. The tuna provided a perfect canvas on which the topping, basically a pico de gallo, made itself known. It's mild, yet tart and sour taste melded wonderfully with the fish. One of the best carpaccios I've ever had.


3: Cold Sweet White Corn Soup, Caviali
A very cool and refreshing soup, the subtle sweetness of the corn soup was well tempered by the salty tang of the caviar.


4a: Shaved Artichokes with Parmigiano-Reggiano
Cut thin, the artichoke had a very pleasing texture and a mild flavor. The Parmigiano-Reggiano was a bit strong for me though, as it tended to dominate the artichoke.


4b: Burrata Caprese
Organic Heirloom Tomato with Burrata. Another take on the classic insalata caprese. The soft, creamy burrata formed a great contrast with the firm,