Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Surah (Buena Park, CA)

Surah
5333 Beach Blvd, Buena Park, CA 90621
714.523.0056
www.yelp.com/biz/surah-korean-restaurant-buena-park (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Tue 09/30/2008, 08:40p-10:15p




So what brought me to Surah? I actually came here to dine with an old friend from my high school days, who happened to live in the area. I mentioned I'd like a place with a good bibimbap, so Surah was his choice. It is interesting to note that although Surah is a Korean restaurant, a large number of Japanese dishes are available.


Located in a Korean strip mall, Surah's exterior is fairly pedestrian. Parking is plentiful in the mall's lot.


The interior is surprisingly contemporary, as it appears that the owners actually put some thought into the decor. Surah is literally the nicest looking Korean restaurant I've been to.


The vast menu begins with Korean and Japanese lunch specials. Click for larger versions.



But we were here for dinner. With such a large selection, we had a difficult time choosing what to order (naturally, the bibimbap was a must). Prices are higher than normal, though I think this is partly justified by the nicer surroundings. Click for larger versions.


To drink, we ordered two 375mL bottles of Jinro Chamjinisulro Soju, one of the most popular mass-market sojus available. Weighing in at 20.1% alcohol, this was akin to a lower proof version of a potato vodka such as Chopin. Indeed, it's distilled from potatoes and grain (rice and barley), and filtered four times through bamboo charcoal. It had a slight sweetness, and was overall quite smooth, with only a tinge of alcoholic burn on the finish.

Let's begin with a recounting of the various banchan that we were presented with. I must admit that this was the most challenging set of banchan I'd ever encountered, as many of the dishes were completely foreign to me.


Du Duk
I don't know the standard spelling here, but I believe this was a type of grilled Korean root (doraji perhaps?). It had a crunch to it, with a bit of spice as well.


Unknown "Noodles"
I'm stumped. The "noodles" had some crunchiness to them, and came smothered in a mild, creamy sauce. Perhaps this was musaengchae, or shredded noodles of mu (daikon radish). Or maybe it was some sort of gamja (potato) salad. If anyone knows, please let me know!


Seaweed
I'm not sure if this was miyeok (wakame) or gim (nori), but it did have a nice smoky flavor to it, and was quite good.


Doraji Namul
Doraji namul consists of shredded and boiled bellflower roots, not too dissimilar to bamboo in taste and texture actually. This turned out to be one of my favorite banchan.


Oiji
Oiji is salt-pickled Korean cucumber. The pieces had a nice bite to them, and went nicely with the relatively mild green chilies.


Hobakjeon
Hobakjeon means squash jeon, with jeon referring to the popular Korean batter pancake-esque banchan. The result was almost like a tempura-style preparation of the squash. Quite good.


Gamja Cake
This tasted like a potato, or gamja, cake, topped with scallion and carrot. I'm not sure if this would be considered gamjajeon (potato pancake), as those are usually much thinner. In any case, it went over well with me.


Buk Uh Gi
I believe this was a type of pickled fish, pollock I think. It had a fairly intense flavor, which unfortunately I wasn't a huge fan of.


Gul Jut
This was simply raw oysters marinated in a spicy chili sauce. I initially mistook it for kimchi, but the dish had a slimy texture that took me by surprise.


Broccoli
Boiled broccoli, served with strands of imitation crab.


Kongnamul
Soybean sprouts, boiled and seasoned with sesame oil.


Baechu Kimchi
The Korean standard: kimchi made with napa cabbage. A bit spicier than usual, but still tasty.


Miyeok Guk
This was a soup made of wakame kelp. Apparently, it's often consumed by women who have just given birth, and traditionally on one's birthday in Korea.



Mando Jungol [$41.98, $20.99x2 orders minimum]
Mandu Jeongol is an elaborate Korean stew made with dumplings (mandu) in a beef broth. In addition to the dumplings, the stew contained enoki mushrooms, cremini mushrooms, red bell pepper, thick noodles, and rice cake (tteok), along with plenty of gochujang. The end result was delicious, albeit a bit too spicy for me. I especially enjoyed the flavor and textural contrasts provided by all the disparate ingredients, held together by the fiery broth.



Dolsot Bibimbob [$13.99]
Finally, the bibimbap. This version contained a fairly standard assortment of ingredients: beef, egg, gim (seaweed), cucumber, carrot, spinach, bamboo, mushroom, and kongnamul (soybean sprouts). The amalgam was delicious, though not the strongest I've had (Jeon Ju and Young Dong were slightly better I thought). The reason was that the ingredients didn't harmonize as well as they could've, with certain items, such as the mushroom, dominating. Nevertheless, I definitely enjoyed it.

I did like what I had at Surah, but I think I really need to try more dishes if I'm to give a definitive judgment of the place. From what I've read, it seems like although Surah may not be the "best" for a particular dish, as a whole, the food here is quite solid. And with the vast menu, there should be plenty to satisfy just about anyone.

Friday, September 26, 2008

Volcano Burgers (Los Alamitos, CA)

Volcano Burgers
3652 Cerritos Ave, Los Alamitos, CA 90720
562.430.6004
www.yelp.com/biz/volcano-burgers-los-alamitos (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Fri 09/26/2008, 08:05p-08:20p




Regular kevinEats readers will recognize Volcano Burgers as perhaps the lowest-priced restaurant ever to appear on this blog. A sign of harsh economic times? Hardly. Don't worry faithful readers; we'll get back on track with the spendy stuff in October. On the slate for next month are Fogo de Chao, Urasawa, Lawry's, Studio, and possibly Totoraku. In any case, getting back to Volcano Burgers, the restaurant holds a special significance for me. Located across the street from Los Alamitos High School, my alma mater, Volcano was my choice for after school dining. I cannot recount the number of chili-cheese fries I devoured from the place over the years!



Volcano Burgers looks pretty much like any other generic burger joint, as in there's not my ambiance to speak of. Lining the windows are the plaques of various Los Al sports teams; during my years at the school, the football team was especially dominant; I wonder how they stand now? Parking is out back, and there is a drive-thru offered.


Once you order, you pick up your food at a small window facing a covered dining area.


Despite the name, Volcano Burgers does a lot more than burgers. Prices are fairly low, and portions quite large. Click for larger versions.


I ordered to go, so I appreciated the security of using boxes instead of bags to hold the food.



Pastrami Sandwich [$5.79]
On a French roll with mustard and pickle. A massive mound of pastrami awaits you here. It was as good as any other I've had (though I do need to try The Hat), and was nicely highlighted by the tartness of the mustard and pickle. My only real complaint was that the roll ended up being quite soggy.



Carne Asada Taco [$2.25]
With a side of salsa. This was a pretty generous serving of beef. Unfortunately the meat was a tad dry, but nevertheless the taco was still quite tasty. I think it must've been the onions and cilantro. Adding onions and cilantro (as well as a nice dollop of salsa) to nearly anything makes it better.



Chili-Cheese Fries with Onions [$3.69]
Ah, this is what brought me back. The fries would be boring on their own, but the chili managed to tie everything together, while the onions added a sharp tang to contrast the richness of the dish. I do think the fries could've used more chili and less cheese though, as near the end of the dish, the cheese was getting a bit overwhelming. Next time I'll ask for more onions too, and hell, maybe ask 'em to throw on some cilantro!

I must say that, after all these years, Volcano Burgers nevertheless manages to satisfy. This is cheap, simple, straightforward food, exactly the type of eats favored by high school students such as myself back in the day, and current Los Al students today. Even now, nearly ten years after graduation (that reminds me, my ten-year reunion is coming up...), those chili fries still do hit the spot!

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Ciudad (Los Angeles, CA)

Ciudad
445 S Figueroa St, Los Angeles, CA 90071
213.486.5171
www.ciudad-la.com
Sun 09/21/2008, 07:00p-09:40p




Ciudad is the brainchild of Chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, otherwise known as Food Network’s "Too Hot Tamales." The restaurant is a pan-Latin affair, specializing in food from South and Central America, Cuba, Spain, and Portugal.


Ciudad is located in the heart Downtown, in sort of a food court area at the base of the Union Bank building. Outdoor patio seating is available out front. Valet parking is offered, as is a self-service garage ($5 with validation).


Upon entering the restaurant, you're greeted with a rather large bar.


Past the bar is the main dining area. Awash in soft tones and soft lights, the space is comfortable, calming even.


Rather than ordering from the standard menu, we went with a prix fix menu specially designed for wine & dineLA. Naturally, I had to go for the "4-courses with wine" option for $95. Click for a larger version.


Ciudad has a fairly extensive drinks list, while the selection of wine is reasonable priced and focuses mostly on Californian and Spanish producers. Click for larger versions.


As usual, I started with a mojito, this time the Supremo Mojito [$15.00] made from Zaya Gran Riserva rum with fresh mint, lime, and sugar. Zaya is a 12-year-old Guatemalan rum, double-distilled from sugar cane syrup in copper pot stills, and aged in oak whisky and bourbon barrels. From what I hear, it's quite an amazing rum, so what a waste to use it here! I couldn't taste anything remotely rum-like in the mojito; actually, I couldn't taste much else but a sickly sweetness that pervaded the entire drink. Where's the lime? Where's the mint? This was an utter failure, especially given the price!



1: Organic Summer Fruit Composition
Paul Dolan Chardonnay, Mendocino County, 2006
With watercress, pistachio, lightly smoked speck ham, olive salt, and saffron citrus vinaigrette. Speck is a type of prosciutto traditionally from Tyrol, a region between Austria and Italy, and is quite delicious when eaten alone. I understood what they were trying to do here, to temper the speck's smoky savoriness with the sweetness of the fruit, but I don't think the dish entirely succeeded in that regard. The pistachios were a valiant attempt to add some textural contrast, but I found them a bit distracting. Things were not helped by the paired wine. I admit that I'm not a huge Chardonnay fan, but the wine here exemplified why I don't care for the varietal. I found it heavy and clumsy, dominated by disconcerting vegetal notes, with a spicy finish tinged with alcohol.



2: Slow Roasted California Wagyu Beef Sirloin
Paul Dolan Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino County, 2005
Ancho chili Cabernet demi glace, shaved Bermuda onion slaw, and organic Peruvian potato salad with pancetta, Dijon mustard, olives, and herbs. Ancho chilies can be a bit overpowering at times (as I discovered when I made tri-tip at Cakebread U), and I was genuinely concerned that the meat would be oversauced. Fortunately that wasn't the case here, as the demi glace added a much needed kick to the sirloin, which otherwise would've been quite boring. Although the meat was advertised as Wagyu, it lacked the richness, tenderness, and oiliness that I expected (see CUT). The potatoes, meanwhile, were a nice way to cut the monolithicity of the meat. Overall, this was my favorite course of the night.


3: Mission Fig and Cabrales Blue Cheese Tart
Paul Dolan Zinfandel, Mendocino County/Amador County, 2005
In savory black pepper pastry with frisee and Sherry fig syrup. This was supposed to pass for dessert, but I'd never seen frisee in a dessert before! I was not a fan. The figs did indeed add a modicum of sweetness to the dish, but I found the blue cheese simply overwhelming. Combined with the overt spiciness of the pepper pastry, the whole experience was rather unpleasant. The paired Zin did make things a bit better though, with its slight spiciness and bold flavors of dark berry.


4: Spanish Cheese Plate
Presidio Port (unfiltered), Amador County, 2004
With dulce de membrillo, marcona almonds, and homemade crackers. Sadly, we weren't told what the cheeses here actually were. I thought one of them could've been Manchego, but one of my dining companions disagreed. In any case, this was a nice presentation of cheese, with some fitting accoutrements, though it certainly didn't blow me away.

Overall, I found the flavors here a bit awkward and perhaps lacking élan. I do believe that my meal wasn't as strong as it could've been, had I ordered à la carte. The place does have some potential, so I think I need to come back to sample the regular menu before passing final judgment.

Friday, September 19, 2008

Tsuruhashi (Fountain Valley, CA)

Tsuruhashi
18798 Brookhurst St, Fountain Valley, CA 92708
714.593.8393
www.yelp.com/biz/tsuruhashi-fountain-valley (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Fri 09/19/2008, 06:55p-08:40p




As with Jeon Ju, Tsuruhashi was recommended by a reader of this blog. Tsuruhashi specializes in yakiniku (Japanese for "grilled meat"), basically a Japanese interpretation of Korean BBQ. This is my second time blogging about yakiniku; my first experience was at Gyu-Kaku in Huntington Beach.


Located in a nondescript strip mall, Tsuruhashi is easy to miss if you're not looking for it.


Inside, things start to look better; the space is clean and tidy, albeit a tad tight. Most of the tables seat four, while total capacity is around 50. At peak hours, the restaurant's din can be quite intense, though we never had a problem with conversation.



Though firmly focused on grilled meat, Tsuruhashi offers a full complement of accompanying dishes, many of Korean origin (e.g. bibimbap, sundubu jjigae, and kimchi bokkeumbap). Come early if you want to try some of the Wagyu beef; by the time we got there, the restaurant was already out of the rib eye cap and upper short rib cuts. Click for larger versions.


To whet our palates, we ordered two large Orion beers [$6.00], imported from Okinawa. I think this was my first time having Orion, and I found it to be very light and easy drinking. It's unique amongst Japanese beers in that it's brewed in a more American, as opposed to German, style. Tsuruhashi also offers Yebisu, which is fairly hard to find in the States; in fact, I've only had it twice in Japan (at Imahan and Natori). It wasn't listed on the menu, and we only spotted it in a refrigeration unit in the back towards the end of the meal. Next time...


Two sauces were brought out for dipping the meat. These are known as tare and included what I believe were a sweet miso sauce and soy sauce and vinegar combination. Later in the meal, we were also brought lemon juice for the tongue and sesame oil with pepper for the pork cheek and belly.


Home-made Korean Radish Kimchi [$3.50]
This was basically ggakdugi, or kimchi made with daikon radish. I enjoyed its mild flavor and refreshing crunch, though it wasn't as good as the version I had recently at Jeon Ju.




Berkshire Natural Pork Belly [$6.75]
This was like uncured bacon or the Korean samgyeopsal. I found the meat quite flavorful and fatty, though a bit tough and chewy texture-wise. The pork came with lettuce and ssamjang, a condiment made of doenjang (Korean soybean paste), gochujang (Korean chili paste), sesame oil, onion, garlic, and scallions. The idea was to wrap the pork and sauce in the lettuce before eating; I tried it that way, but wasn't particularly impressed.



Salted Prime Fresh Tongue [$8.95]
Tongue may sound unappetizing, but it was actually one of my favorite meats of the night. It had a great beefy flavor and a delightfully rubbery texture to it. Great on its own, it was further heightened when dipped in the lemon juice.



US Kobe Boneless Short Rib [$9.25]
Look at that marbling! Not surprisingly, this was my favorite meat of the night. Immensely soft and buttery, with a good amount of oiliness, it literally required no chewing. I must say that it was a different experience compared to a good Wagyu steak though.


Seasoned Vegetables, Chopped Beef and Cooked Egg on Rice in a Hot Stone Pot [$8.25]
As at Gyu-Kaku, dolsot bibimbap was offered, and thus I had to try it. This version had gim (seaweed), egg, gochujang, pickled cucumber, kongnamul (soybean sprouts), mushroom, spinach, doraji (bellflower root), carrot, and finally beef. This was a bit of a step up from Gyu-Kaku, though still not at the level of Young Dong Tofu or Jeon Ju, as the rice still was a bit imposing, thus preventing a complete harmonization of the various ingredients.


Egg Soup
The bibimbap above came with a bowl of what amounted to an egg drop soup. Made with egg, chicken broth, salt, pepper, and scallion, both my dining companion and I found it surprisingly delicious.



Berkshire Natural Pork Cheek [$6.75]
I wasn't a huge fan of this, as I found the cheek rather tough, and not nearly as flavorful as the pork belly. As with the belly, this also came with lettuce and ssamjang, which was left largely unused.



USDA Prime Cap Rib Eye [$10.95]
Since the restaurant had already run out of the Wagyu rib eye cap, we ordered the USDA Prime version in its place. Nicely marbled, this was very good, flavorful, yet tender and succulent, only surpassed by the Wagyu short rib.



US Kobe Kalbi Marinated Overnight in our Secret Sauce [$7.50]
Unlike all the other meats, the kalbi came in its own stone pot, and we were told to grill the meat on the side of grill for a lower heat. I really liked the flavor here, which was slightly sweet thanks to the marinade of Korean soy sauce, garlic, and sugar. Unfortunately, the meat was marred by an overly chewy texture and the presence of small pieces of bone.


Honeydew
We passed on ordering dessert, so we were pleasantly surprised when we were presented with honeydew. It was good, but when eating it, I kept thinking back to the ridiculously sweet and succulent Shizuoka musk melon I had at Imahan in Japan (at $15 per slice!).


Oolong Tea
A nice, steaming cup of tea was a fitting way to close out the meal.


Cold Stone Creamery "Love It" (8 oz) Oreo Overload [$4.99]
Since we didn't end up ordering dessert at Tsuruhashi, we were hankering for something sweet. The Cold Stone across the street was the answer. The Oreo Overload comes with sweet cream ice cream, chocolate chips, double Oreo cookies, and fudge. My server also accidentally grabbed a brownie, which I subsequently asked to be included in the amalgam. How could this not be delicious? I especially enjoyed the textural interplay between the frozen chocolate chips, crisp Oreos, rich brownie bits, and soft ice cream.

I had a good time at Tsuruhashi. I enjoyed most everything we ordered, and look forward to trying some of the other items on the menu; plus, there is indeed something satisfying about cooking your own meat. I think Tsuruhashi is a great alternative to the ubiquity of Korean BBQ. It's definitely pricier, and you don't get all those free tasty banchan, but the wider selection and higher quality of the meats make it worthwhile to me.

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Jeon Ju (Los Angeles, CA)

Jeon Ju
2716 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90006
213.386.5678
www.yelp.com/biz/jeon-ju-restaurant-los-angeles (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Sat 09/13/2008, 08:35p-09:45p




After having bibimbap for the first time in Japan, I desperately wanted to recreate the experience here in the States. While early attempts left me wanting, I'd since been convinced that comparable bibimbaps were indeed available stateside, but I still hadn't had it in Koreatown. That's where Jeon Ju comes in. The restaurant came highly recommended by a number of people, including a commenter on this very blog. Let's see how it stacked up.


Jeon Ju is located on the first floor of a two-story strip mall. Parking is provided in a small lot, which I hear can become quite packed at peak hours.


The interior is fairly small (though the mirrors make it seem bigger), with seating for about 50 people. There's not much decor to speak of, though the Korean script gracing the walls is somewhat unique.


Jeon Ju can do much more than bibimbap, as evidenced by the fairly lengthy menu. Note however that the three preparations of bibimbap are highlighted right up top. Also note the odd pricing, as I encountered at Young Dong Tofu, presumably to simplify tax calculations. Click for larger versions.

We'll begin with a recounting of the various banchan that we were presented with.


Broccoli with Gochujang
Raw broccoli goes quite well with a cool Ranch dressing. I found out that it also goes well with spicy gochujang, a Korean condiment made with chili powder, glutinous rice powder, fermented soybeans, and salt. Gochujang is also widely used as a flavoring for bibimbap, as we'll see below.


Cheongpomuk Muchim
Cheongpomuk, also known as nokdumuk, is a Korean muk (jelly) made from mung bean starch. The jelly was well garnished with soy sauce and scallion, as the cheongpomuk had little flavor of its own. The consistency was dense, and slightly chewy, reminiscent of Japanese konnyaku jelly.


Ggakdugi
Ggakdugi is a type of kimchi made from mu (daikon radish). The radish is cubed and typically flavored with salt, red chili powder, scallions, and ginger. I much enjoyed the ggakdugi's crispness and milder flavor.


Baechu Kimchi
A meal just wouldn't seem complete without kimchi, specifically baechu kimchi, the most popular variety, made from napa cabbage. This was exactly what I expected from kimchi, and I found it to be spicier and saltier than the ggakdugi and water kimchi below.


Kong Gan
I was informed by one of my dining companions that this was known as "white bean." I'm thinking these are azuki beans perhaps? Unfortunately, I forgot to sample them.


Pajeon
Pajeon is a type of jeon, a pancake-esque dish made of eggs, flour, and green onion. It was soft in texture with a mild flavor, and was one of my favorite banchan.


Mul Kimchi
Mul means water, so this was basically kimchi in water. It had a much milder taste than normal kimchi, with less salt, but still packed a delightfully garlicky tangy. Very nice.


Miyeok Guk
Miyeok guk is a soup made from wakame, a type of edible kelp commonly used in Japanese cookery.

As Jeon Ju is most well known for bibimbap, we decided to try all three varieties offered, all served dolsot style (in a stone pot).



Kalbi Dor Sot Bibim Bap [$10.19]
Kalbi mixed with vegetables over rice. This is Jeon Ju's signature bibimbap. Apparently, its uniqueness is derived from the use of kalbi (marinated beef short ribs) as the meat component; otherwise, it's a pretty typical preparation. Ingredients included kalbi, mu (daikon), kimchi, kongnamul (bean sprouts), mushroom, cucumber, doraji (bellflower root), carrot, egg, gim (seaweed), and sesame. I thought it was delicious, with a harmonious mixture of ingredients and just the right amount of rice; everything simply flowed and melded together into a tasty amalgam. This compared very favorably to the bibimbap I had at Young Dong, though I can't say for certain that one was better than the other.



Kimchee Dor Sot Bibim Bap [$10.19]
Cooked kimchee mixed with kalbi over rice. This was my first time having bibimbap with kimchi as the dominant ingredient. In addition to kimchi, the dish included kalbi, egg, scallion, and gim (seaweed). The addition of vast amounts of kimchi to the bibimbap gave the dish a golden color as well as a unique, tangy flavor. Gochujang was actually not needed, as the kimchi provided sufficient spice. I can't say that I prefer this over a normal bibimbap, but it was nevertheless very good, and I would order it again to mix things up.



Haemool Dor Sot Bibim Bap [$10.19]
Seafood mixed with vegetables over rice. The ingredients here were kalbi, nakji (octopus), mussels, carrot, mu (daikon), kimchi, kongnamul (bean sprouts), mushroom, cucumber, imitation crab, shrimp, egg, gim (seaweed), and sesame. I'd never had a haemool (seafood) version of bibimbap before. When mixed together, the various individual seafood components didn't stand out on their own; rather, they presented a well integrated, unified flavor front, tied together by plenty of gochujang. A delectable, welcomed addition to my bibimbap repertoire.

For a place that's gotten so much hype for its bibimbap, Jeon Ju did not disappoint. The "standard" bibimbap was amongst the best I've had, and I much appreciated the additional kimchi and haemool varieties. Next time I'm back though, I do want to see if everything else on the menu is just as good!

Friday, September 05, 2008

Echigo (Los Angeles, CA)

Echigo
12217 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
310.820.9787
www.yelp.com/biz/echigo-los-angeles-2 (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Fri 09/05/2008, 07:40p-09:10p




Over the past couple of years, I had heard good things about Echigo, and always wanted to try it, but there was never really anything special about the place that would put it at the top of my "to-eat" list. So what brought me here? Simple: my dining companion wanted to go. The word on the street is that Chef Toshi used to work under Nobi Kusuhara (of Sushi Sasabune fame), so I was expecting a similar experience, warm rice and all.


Echigo is located on the second floor of a strip mall. One big advantage: parking is free and plentiful.


The bar seats about a dozen. High ceilings give the place an airy, spacious feel, which is atypical of most sushi joints. Decor is nondescript.


Echigo presents a good selection of sushi items, and as you can see, there are no fancy Super-Crunchy-Philly-Dragon-Fire rolls here. At the bar though, only omakase is available, at a cost of $44.10. Click for a larger version.



A small list of beer and sake is available. We ordered a decanter of Kubota [$31.00]; I'm not sure if it was Kubota Manjyu or the lower-end Kubota Hekijyu, but we liked its light, floral flavor. The plum wine [$6.00], however, was far too sweet, and my dining companion had to water it down. Click for larger versions.


The wasabi may have been the real deal, but was a bit creamier than I'm used to. The gari (ginger) was quite good, crisp and very natural tasting.


1: Tai/Red Snapper Sashimi
The tai was light, crisp, and overall quite tasty. The addition of ponzu, scallion, and daikon oroshi helped draw out the flavor of an otherwise very mild-tasting fish.


2: Toro/Fatty Tuna
When it comes to toro, I think I've been spoiled by Urasawa and places in Japan. The cut here was unimpressive, lacking the fattiness and melt-in-your-mouth characteristics that I cherish in toro.


3: Hirame/Halibut
The fish by itself was good but a bit forgettable. However, topping the hirame with ponzu, scallion, and daikon oroshi definitely heightened my enjoyment of the dish.


4: Katsuo/Skipjack Tuna
From Japan, topped with scallion. Katsuo is a relatively rare fish to get; I've only had it on my first visit to Urasawa and at Kyubey in Tokyo. That's a shame, because the bonito was arguably my favorite fish of the night. It was very soft and slick in consistency, with a more full-flavored, smokier taste compared to regular tuna.


5: Kampachi/Greater Amberjack
The kampachi here reminded me of hamachi. It was served with yuzu kosho (a condiment made from yuzu, chili peppers, and salt), which added a bit of kick to an otherwise pleasant but pedestrian fish.


6: Shima Aji/Striped Jack
I loved the shima aji on my last visit to Urasawa, and once again the fish was one of the strongest of the night. In fact, I think it would've been fine without its various accoutrements, to let the fish's flavor really come to the fore.


7: Tai/Red Snapper
Compared to the tai above, this version was from Japan (and thus a bit pricier on the menu). I didn't notice anything particularly special about the fish however. Perhaps some ponzu would better draw out the subtle flavors at play here?


8: Butterfish
The term "butterfish" is often use to refer to many kinds of fish, so I'm not sure exactly what this was. In sushi, butterfish is often times escolar, a type of mackerel. The fish had a very firm texture, a bit like albacore, while the taste was indistinctive. I'm not sure what the sauce on top was, but it had a slight citrusy note that helped offset the monolithic nature of the fish.


9: Blue Crab Hand Roll
This is just like the hand roll you can get at Sushi Sasabune or Sushi Wasabi (also run by an ex-Sasabune alum), though I would've liked more crab. Nevertheless, it was delicious, with the strong essence of crab meat buffered by the rice and nori wrapper.

Given the small cuts of fish and the relatively low number of courses, I was not close to being full. My dining companion was however, so we decided to order "only" four more supplemental courses.


Supplement: Hamachi/Yellowtail [$2.90]
When I first started eating sushi, hamachi was arguably my favorite fish. As I became more accustomed to sushi however, yellowtail began to fall out of favor. This reminded of why I liked it in the first place. It was clean, mild, light, and as melt-in-your-mouth as hamachi can possibly be, without being too oily or heavy.


Supplement: Amaebi/Sweet Shrimp [$4.50]
Before the actual sushi came out, we were presented with the shrimp roe. I was disappointed that we weren't given the deep fried heads though. The shrimp itself was very rich and creamy, but lacked the crispness and snap that I like.


Supplement: Awabi/Abalone Sashimi [$12.80]
The awabi sashimi was one of the better versions I've had, as the flesh had just a hint of crunchiness to it (often times abalone is far too tough, like at Sushi Wave). The second photo shows what was described as "abalone belly." I can't seem to find any references to it, so I'm really not sure what it was. My dining companion did prefer it to the actual abalone itself though.


Supplement: Green Tea Mochi Ice Cream [$1.50]
This looked and tasted suspiciously like the mochi ice cream available at many grocery stores, manufactured by Mikawaya. Mikawaya was the first company to manufacture mochi ice cream in the US, starting in 1994. Given that a 6-pack retails for $6.00, $1.50 actually wasn't a bad price.

Echigo is often compared to Sasabune, and with good reason. Toshi has brought along his former employer's tricks, and has added a few flourishes of his own. The sushi is good, solid, and reasonable in price, but it's not mind-blowing. So come on over if you're seeking a Sasabune-esque experience at a more intimate location, and perhaps at a slightly lower price point. Do watch out for the so-called warm rice though, as here it gets downright hot!