Leatherby's Cafe Rouge (Costa Mesa, CA) [2]

Leatherby's Cafe Rouge
615 Town Center Dr, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714-429-7640
www.patinagroup.com/cafeRouge/
Sun 10/26/2008, 06:45p-08:50p



On my last visit, I wrote that Leatherby's was a "restaurant still trying to find its own identity." That was 13 months ago, and unfortunately the restaurant has still not found its way. In that span, Leatherby's has gone through a number of head chefs, with each trying, and failing, to find a formula that works. Enter Don Schoenburg, a self-described "fixer," brought in to turn things around. Prior to Leatherby's, Schoenburg was Executive Chef at Tradition by Pascal, a well-regarded French eatery in Newport. In our discussions with the Chef, he talked about his deep understanding of the Orange County palate (vis-à-vis Los Angeles), and it was obvious to us that he had a keen eye on the business side of things as well, even claiming to know the exact costs of the ingredients on our plates!


Chef Schoenburg informed us that the Leatherby's space would undergo a dramatic remodeling in the near future. The area shown above will be converted into a lounge, with totally updated furnishings and new lighting. To go along with this, a happy hour and wine bar concept will be instituted.


The menus turned out to be fairly similar to what we encountered last time. We decided to try the Four-course Prix Fixe [$45.00] and the seasonal Mushroom Festival Four-course Prix Fixe [$48.00], while supplementing with two courses. Click for larger versions.


We started the meal off with a beer, the fantastic La Chouffe pale ale from Brasserie d'Achouffe [$36.00]. Brasserie d'Achouffe, founded in 1982, is a relatively new Belgian brewery located in Achouffe, and this was my first time having any of their beers. La Chouffe is an unfiltered blonde beer, refermented in the bottle as well as the keg. It was one of the best beers I'd ever tasted, with strong fruity notes that hit you initially, followed up with a light spiciness and mild hoppiness. Superb! We then moved on to a red wine, the Jacques Girardin Les Gollardes, Savigny Les Beaune, 2006 [$77.00]. The wine was extremely light, both in color and body, with loads of light red fruit on the nose, followed by a bit of cherry and smoke on the palate. Finally, we were treated to complementary glasses of Alvear, Pedro Ximénez, Montilla-Moriles, Solera 1927, an intensely sweet sherry that held its own against the desserts.


Surprisingly, the bread selection was exactly the same as before: baguette, cheese, and olive, with my favorite once again being the cheese.


1a: Mushroom Terrine
Balsamic reduction, toasted pecan. Though described as a "terrine" by our server, the mushrooms seemed merely sautéed to me. In any case, the natural flavor of the mushrooms was nicely accentuated by the bitterness of arugula and tartness of balsamic, while the pecans added an intriguing textural contrast.


1b: Wild Mushroom Cappuccino
Porcini dust. This was basically a mushroom soup, looking like a convincing copy of cappuccino. It was a rich, hearty stock that really showcased the earthy flavor of mushroom. The creamy, frothy texture was an added bonus.


2a: Arugula Salad
Wild arugula, oven dried tomato, fresh mozzarella and roasted garlic dressing. Eaten alone, the arugula provided a strangely satisfying bitterness that easily held its own against the garlic dressing. The key here, though, was to eat the mozzarella and tomato with the greens and note their flavor against the arugula's background of bitterness, almost like a slightly twisted insalata caprese.


2b: Warm Watercress Salad
Thom ka kai marinated mushrooms, toasted cashews. Thom ka kai, or tom kha gai, is a Thai hot and sour soup made with coconut milk, lemon grass, and chicken. It definitely gave the mushrooms a unique Thai tinge, which I rather liked, and which went well with the watercress' own unique tang. I would've preferred the cashews a bit crisper though.


Supplement 1: Southern Rock Lobster Salad [$15.00]
Mache, citrus supremes, grapefruit vinaigrette. The sweetness of the mache base paired well with the sweetness of lobster, but this combination was lost in the other flavors of the dish. The citrus, vinaigrette, and pomegranate seeds all resulted in a sourness that hid the natural flavor of the lobster, which should've been the star here.



Supplement 2: French Trio [$18.00]
Escargot, sweetbreads and foie gras. The escargot was my favorite item in this troika. It was a traditional Bourguignon presentation, cooked in garlic butter, and served atop a delightful puffy pastry. The foie gras, meanwhile, was a typical preparation and a bit too sweet for me. Finally, the sweetbreads had a nicely cooked, golden brown exterior that gave way to a richly flavored, slightly gamey interior; overall it was quite nice.


3a: Quail
Black truffle sausage, butternut squash, chanterelle mushrooms and Cognac sauce. The was easily one of the best preparations of "quail" I'd ever had. I use quotes as this wasn't really quail, but a quail shell stuffed with a truffled sausage made of chicken. It was quickly apparent that this wasn't a typical bird, once I saw that it was basically a large lump of meat, no bones, no entrails, with wings and legs attached. The sausage had a spongy textural a bit reminiscent of meatloaf, and was simply marvelous, especially when eaten with the quail's crisp skin. I was impressed at how well-integrated the sausage was; it was tough to determine where the sausage ended and quail began! The accompanying chanterelles were a nice touch, but the butternut squash purée was completely redundant.


3b: Prime New York Steak
Portobello mushroom gratin, sauce à la forestière. The gratin was interesting, basically a cheesy layer on top of a portobello mushroom. Forestière sauce is a rich, mildly sweet brown sauce made with mushrooms and beef stock. Here, it added a lot to the beef, which otherwise would've been quite boring. The beef itself was nice enough, but paled in comparison to the Wagyu steaks I've had at places such as CUT. Again, as with the previous dish, I didn't care for the butternut squash.


4a: Crème Caramel with Fresh Seasonal Berries
Crème Caramel, or simply flan, is a custard dessert with a layer of soft caramel on top. The custard portion was nicely dense, rich, and very sweet, while the berries added a contrasting tartness. A delicious dessert, but nothing groundbreaking.


4b: Ile Flottante
Slow-baked meringues, crème anglaise, bittersweet chocolate mousse. This, on the other hand, was much more interesting. "Ile Flottante" is French for "floating island," or a dessert consisting of an "island" of meringue floating in a "sea" of crème anglaise. The meringue consisted of both the light, airy uncooked variety (the "stem" of the mushroom) and the classic dry cookie-like version (the "cap"). Both preparations were quite mild, and benefitted from the surrounding ocean of sweet crème française.

Though not as strong as last time, this meal at Leatherby's was nevertheless quite enjoyable. In fact, I still think it's one of the best restaurants in Orange County. It is thus unfortunate to see the place in such a constant state of flux, which I've heard blamed on things such as an odd location and lack of marketing. I don't think the food is a problem. New Executive Chef Schoenburg has a reputation for turning places around, so it's my hope that he can work his magic here at Leatherby's.

Club 33, Disneyland (Anaheim, CA) [3]

Disneyland
Attn: Club 33
1313 S Harbor Blvd, Anaheim, CA 90803
www.disneylandclub33.com (unofficial)
Sun 10/19/2008, 11:15a-01:15p



Since this was my third visit to Club 33, I'll skip the typical introductory material and focus on the eats. For some background on the place, please see my previous posts here and here.


To dine at Club 33, you'll need to visit Guest Relations and pick up your Park Hopper pass and tip sheet (left). Despite having a Park Hopper pass, I ended up not going on any rides or attractions that day, a waste I know! Click for a larger version.


The sheet above, placed at our table, provided the uninitiated with a quick background on the Club. Click for a larger version.


Sample lunch and children's menus are shown above. I had to pre-order my lunch, so the menu I used was slightly different than above. The price was $105, inclusive of choice of entrée, buffet, drink (sparkling wine, cider, juice, water), tax, and gratuity. Click for larger versions.



The wine list is heavily focused on California wines. Prices are quite reasonable, hovering around two times retail. Click for larger versions.


Though advertised as "Champagne," the complementary wine was actually the Bouvet-Ladubay Signature Brut, Loire Valley, France NV. It's made from Chenin Blanc, and goes for around $12 a bottle retail; it's interesting to note that the Bouvet is not listed on the wine list above. In any case, the sparkler was pretty palatable, with a bit of sweetness, nice bubbles, and soft notes of flowers and honey. In addition to the Bouvet, we could also have sparkling cider, juices, mixed juice slushes (second photo), and water. As for the water, the use of Glaceau Smartwater was a nice touch, definitely better than the tap typically served.


Unlike at previous visits, bread was actually provided at the table. The one on the left was a walnut bread, while the other was a fairly standard loaf.


The first buffet section contained four types of salad, as well as dressing.


Next, we have the makings of an insalata caprese (tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil), various cheeses, and fruit (watermelon, honeydew, cantaloupe, pineapple).


Now come smoked salmon (with crème fraîche, red onions, and capers), grilled vegetables, and cold cuts.


The final section contains cocktail shrimp, lobster tails, and crab claws. As you might imagine, this one was my favorite!


The dessert station tempts, but you must wait until you're done with the savories!


Finally, we see the bread station with its various accoutrements.


My first and second plates from the buffet. As you can see, I've learned from my previous trips to not fill up on veggies, but instead to head straight for the good stuff!


Mickey and Pluto paid us two visits during the course of our meal. They were a big hit with the youngsters (and those young at heart!).


New York Steak, Curried Banana Ketchup, Kennebec Steak Fries
What surprised me with the steak is that they didn't ask us what temperature we wanted! Although some of my dining companions would've preferred it rarer, it turned out alright, around medium I'd say. After having my share of Wagyu beef as of late, the meat here did seem a bit tough, but it was certainly workable (I was able to cut it with my bread knife). It lacked the nice marbling I like, but the flavor was there, though not as beefy or as rich as it could've been. As for the rest of the plate, the fries were a bit soggy, and I found the ketchup far too sweet (all I could taste was banana!).


Alaskan Halibut, Meyer Lemon Risotto, Minted Tabbouleh
This was disappointing. A good halibut (see Marche Moderné) has a firm, flaky texture that I find immensely enjoyable, but this was just soft and mushy. Furthermore, the fish's taste was weak, nondescript, and got lost in all the other flavors on the plate. Fortunately, the included risotto was nice enough, and the asparagus quite crisp and tasty.


Pan Roasted Chicken, Mac & Cheese Croquette, Pickled Sweet Carrot
I only got a small bite of the meat here, but thought it was the strongest dish of the trio. The chicken was tender, juicy, and flavorful, with a delectably crisp skin.


With the savory courses dispensed with, it was now time for dessert!


This was basically marshmallows in chocolate, sort of like a s'more. Everybody grabbed this dessert first for some reason. I don't know why, as it was a bit of a letdown to be honest; I expected more.


I'm not even sure what to call this. It was a cookie topped with a chocolate dome of some sort. The chocolate portion was fairly light, not too sweet, and thus didn't overpower the cookie. Quite nice.


This was a coconut macaroon, dipped in chocolate. It had a fantastic, delicate coconut flavor, which was then bolstered by the addition of chocolate. Very nice bite and mouthfeel as well. One of my favorites.


Again, I'm flummoxed as to what this was. I appeared to be some sort of chocolate cup, with a cream and cake filling. Decent, but nothing special.


A dark brownie-esque chocolate cake, topped with whipped cream and peppermint. We were told by the chef that this was the most chocolatey dessert, and he was right. It was also one of the best.


This was some sort of lemon pastry, with a tart lemon filling. I liked the texture and consistency of the dessert and its creamy interior, but the taste was far too sour for me.


Panna cotta above a fruit gelatin. The panna cotta itself was fairly mild, so it worked well with the sweeter gelée layer. Not bad.


The blackberry tart was, as expected, quite tart, though balanced somewhat by the use of chocolate.


This was a financier, a semi-spongy tea cake similar to a madeleine. Apparently, the name "financier" is said to come from the pastry's traditional rectangular mold, which resembles a bar of gold. It was fairly dense, with a mild sweetness to it, backed by a rich buttery flavor.


The mango pie had a rather bracing, delicious mango flavor that made it one of the strongest desserts.


The chocolate mousse cake was light and subtle in flavor, though sadly a bit nondescript.


Finally, the fruit-based cake was palatable but forgettable. At this point, we were getting so full that all we could handle were "slivers" of cake!


The Club 33 mints to close out the meal were a new addition on this visit. Taste-wise, they reminded me of Andes chocolate mints.


The Club 33 matchbook. We asked the hostess on the first floor for them as we were leaving. She seemed a bit hesitant in giving them to us, and asked who our server was (hopefully he didn't get in trouble!). She then went on to explain that the supply of the matches is quite limited.

As you can see, food-wise, Club 33 certainly isn't going to be winning any awards. Though certainly not atrocious by any means, the cuisine is rather tired and really only a notch above typical "hotel fare." But if you're focusing on the food, you're missing the point. The point of the Club is the exclusivity, the experience, and by that criterion, Club 33 certainly measures up. I'll definitely be back if I have the chance.

XIV (Los Angeles, CA)

XIV
8117 W Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90046
323.656.1414
www.xivrestaurant.com
Thu 10/16/2008, 09:00p-12:40a



XIV ("fourteen," though I still catch myself saying "X-I-V") marks Michael Mina's return to Los Angeles after a two decade long hiatus; apparently, Mina actually started out as a pastry chef at the Hotel Bel Air. Coincidentally or not, XIV is also Mina's 14th restaurant. Having tried two of his other establishments, the original Michael Mina in San Francisco, and Stonehill Tavern in Dana Point, I was eager to give XIV a shot, and made it a point to book reservations on opening night.

Unfortunately, my past record with so-called celebrity chefs has been spotty, and I feared that XIV would turn out like another Gordon Ramsay, or worse yet, a Charlie Palmer. Quite honestly, the restaurant's location on the Sunset Strip was a bit of a concern. Would XIV be for real or all flash? Would SBE do to Mina what it did to Katsu-ya? SBE reportedly spent $12 million on the place, money that needs to be paid back, and we all know that serious fine dining restaurants aren't really all that profitable. As the evening of the 16th drew closer, anticipation on my end was building...


XIV's space used to house the nightclub Privilege, the Shelter supper club, and the bar and club Coconut Teaszer (a fixture of the LA rock scene). As such, the exterior doesn't really look like a restaurant, though it certainly is dramatic. Anchored by a well-manicured "XIV" hedge, the facade is covered in white tile, and you can barely make out the door (which is just behind the person in the photo).



Compared to the stark exterior, the Philippe Starck-designed interior is a throwback to the times of Louis "XIV." Meant to mimic the interior of a European chateau, the space makes me think of an aristocrat's living room, replete with dark wood, fur-draped sofas, fireplaces, bookshelves, and eclectic artwork adorning the walls. However, Starck contrasts this antiquity with a bar of stainless steel, which runs nearly the entire length of one side of the room, as well as a gleaming, open kitchen. Outdoor seating is available in a corner patio area.


The menu is divided into seven sections, with five dishes each. We were told that there are also vegetarian and vegan versions of the menu as well. The idea is interesting: basically you choose items that everyone at the table will eat, so in a sense it's "family-style" dining. At the same time, it's a tasting menu in that each item is brought out divided into small tasting portions. Not being satisfied with that paradigm, I proposed something ambitious: that we order two of everything on the menu. This was something that I'd never seen attempted before, and I honestly wasn't sure if we could even pull it off (both in terms of stomach capacity and willingness on the restaurant's part). If successful, this would break record for number of courses consumed, set at Urasawa. Fortunately, the staff at XIV was able to accommodate this unique request, and I think even delighted in having a party attempt a "gamut" (I believe that's what the restaurant called the feat). Instead of ordering 70 courses at $8 each, we were able to price it out via five orders of the "Fourteen from XIV" for $95. Note the signature of Executive Chef Michael Mina on the menu. Click for a larger version.


A fascinating selection of cocktails complements the wines by the glass list. However, for wine, we decided to do it by the bottle. Prices are very reasonable, with markups in the 2-3x range for the most part. There are some extreme values though, such as the 2005 Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon for $295 (I paid more for mine and I'm on the mailing list!). Click for larger versions.


For cocktails, I started with a Mojito [$13] of course; it was a solid example, very well-balanced and not too sweet, with a nice bite of mint. One of my dining companions ordered the Scottish Mule (Hendrick's Cucumber, Fresh Lime, Ginger Beer) [$13], which was my favorite of the bunch, with a delightful cucumber flavor backed by just a hint of ginger; very refreshing. Finally, there was the Chupacabra (Don Julio Blanco, Jalapeño, Fresh Lime, Ginger Beer, Mint, Chile-Salt Rim) [$14], with its spicy/sour interplay; I apologize for the out of focus photo here.


Instead of bread, naan was provided. Naan is, of course, a Central and South Asian flatbread made of flour, and cooked in a tandoor. Apparently, it was Michael's idea to have this, perhaps as a nod toward his Middle Eastern background (he's from Egypt). In any case, we all enjoyed the naan, with its fluffy yet crunchy texture and rich, buttery flavor. In fact, it was better than the naan at many Indian restaurants; now they just need to do a garlic version!


1: Michael's Caviar Parfait
There was no amuse bouche, so we got right into the first course of the meal. The parfait here was topped with farmed Ossetra caviar, at a $60 per serving supplement (our server mistakenly quoted $40, and told us of the mistake afterwards; we were only charged for $40 though). Paddlefish roe and wild Ossetra were also available. In any case, this was a fantastic start to the meal. It was a multilayered affair, with the briny, nutty caviar on top, followed by creamy, tangy crème fraîche, smoked salmon, egg, and finally a potato croquette on the bottom. All the flavors melded seamlessly together, and the potato added a great textural contrast. This was arguably my favorite dish of the night. Magnifique!



2: Ice Cold Shellfish
White Shrimp Panna Cotta, Kushi Oyster, Steamed Clams. The shrimp were described to us as "sweet shrimp," but I think they were the same as the "shiro ebi" I had on my first trip to Urasawa; the shrimp were lovely, especially when taken with the underlying panna cotta cream. Next, though the menu said "Kushi," we were told the oyster was a Kumamoto, my favorite type. The shell shape certainly looked liked a Kumamoto, and the mild flavor backed up that claim; the foam was interesting, in that it tended to punctuate the oyster's natural flavor. Finally, we had cured littleneck clams; I forget what they were marinated in, but they had a subtle sweetness that counteracted their briny natural flavor.


3: Ahi Tuna Tartare
Ancho Chili, Pears, Mint, Pine Nuts, Sesame Oil. Tuna tartare is almost a staple for me. This version had a somewhat richer, more complex flavor than I'm accustomed to, which was a good thing. The sesame oil and ancho were probably the main contributors to this, and the use of pine nuts added a wondrous crunch to the tartare. Nice!


4: Chilled Maine Lobster
Potatoes, Celery, Chestnuts, Truffle. The lobster itself was solid, fresh, subtle, with a nice texture, but what really set this dish apart for me was the use of potato. It really provided a contrasting taste and texture that added complexity to a dish that could've been quite boring otherwise.


5: Sake and Maple-Cured Kanpachi
Apple, Cippolini Onions, Shiso. The fish had a firm texture, not too fatty, but very smooth; it wouldn't have been bad as sashimi. The cure, meanwhile, gave the kanpachi a bit of an aromatic flowery flavor that worked out pretty well. This reminded me a bit of the crudo I had at Blanca in Newport.


6: Heirloom Tomatoes
Gem Lettuce, Avocado, Bacon Vinaigrette. I'm not a salad person, but I really enjoyed this. The heirloom tomatoes actually took a back seat for me. Rather, the bacon was the star. In addition to adding a fantastic textural crunch to the salad, it provided an offsetting saltiness to the mild, crisp lettuce and the creaminess of the avocado. Bacon does make everything better. Very nice!


7: Golden Beet Salad
Endive, Mache, Aged Gruyere, Hazelnut. This salad was much milder. The greens themselves provided most of the interest here, while the beet and Gruyere served more supporting roles. I think this would've benefitted from a tangy vinaigrette dressing, as like this, it was a bit boring.


8: Artisan Charcuterie
Pickled Cabbage, Caraway, Peach Mustard. There were three types of meat here; one was speck (an Austro-Italian juniper-flavored prosciutto), but unfortunately I don't recall the other two. My favorite was the one to the far left. The pickles (reminiscent of sauerkraut) were a nice touch, as was the mustard with its lovely peach tang; fortunately, the accoutrements didn't overpower as they did at Charlie Palmer.


After we were done with our cocktails, we opened our first wine of the night, the Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben "Ürziger Würzgarten" Riesling, Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 2007 [$52], to go with some lighter dishes. This was a quintessential expression of German Riesling (my favorite type of Riesling), with fine stone fruit and floral flavors balanced by a light acidity, leading to a juicy finish. The wine retails for around $30, so the price of $52 was very reasonable.


9: Beef Carpaccio
Hearts of Romaine, Cherry Tomatoes, Horseradish. This wasn't what I was expecting. I'm used to my carpaccio being laid out flat, not rolled. Nevertheless, this turned out to be a great dish. The beef wasn't actually the main focus for me; it was the lettuce that stole the show. It's mild crunchiness was a great accompaniment to the meat, and the horseradish added a soft kick to everything. I didn't see a need for the tomatoes, but they certainly didn't distract from the dish.


10: Bay Scallops Tempura
Cauliflower, Passion Fruit, Almonds. I've never had scallops quite like this before. The scallops themselves were not prepared tempura-style, but rather nicely sautéed to a golden brown, with a rich, sweet flavor. They formed a great interplay with the crispness of tempura vegetables and almonds, as well as the sweetness of passion fruit. The overall effect in the mouth was very pleasing.


11: Dungeness Crab Spring Roll
Avocado, Cumin, Charred Jalapeño, Lime. This was one of the weaker dishes for me. The rolls were a bit nondescript, and I couldn't really pick out the crab and its signature sweetness. Things did improve with the avocado dipping sauce, but I think a non-fried goi cuon-esque summer roll would've worked out better here.


12: Salt & Pepper Big Fin Squid
Glass Noodles, Carrots, Sprouts, Ginger. This definitely had an Asian flavor to it, with the slight sweetness of ginger balanced by the tinge of salt and pepper. The squid had a pleasant consistency, while the noodles added an interesting element to a dish that would've otherwise been too plain.


13: Foie Gras Terrine
Cranberry, Cardamom, Greek Yogurt, Flatbread. I much prefer my foie in terrine or pâté form, and this preparation did not disappoint. The foie was dense, rich, creamy, yet delicate. Its flavor was enhanced by the use of cranberry, which added sweetness, and yogurt, which contributed sourness. This was one of the best dishes of the night and actually compared quite well to the legendary foie gras terrine I had at French Laundry (still my favorite!).


14: Black Truffle Risotto
Sweet Corn, Castelmagno Cheese. I think this was my first experience with Castelmagno, an Italian semi-hard cow's milk cheese from Piedmont. The cheese added richness and depth to the risotto, while the corn contrasted that with a marked sweetness. Very nice, though I would've liked more truffle.


15: Sunchoke Soup
Celery, Black Olive, Espelette Pepper. The various ingredients came presented as shown in the first photo; our server then proceeded to pour on the sunchoke soup. Sunchokes are also known as Jerusalem artichokes, though they're not really artichokes. They do have a flavor I'd describe as a mix between artichoke and potato, and thus, the resultant soup was rich, delicious, and heartwarming, perhaps too much so, as it tended to drown out the flavors of the celery, pepper, and olive.


16: Pumpkin Dumplings
Stewed Cherries, Brown Butter, Sage. Sadly, this turned out to be one of my least favorite dishes of the night. The nose was intensely cinnamon, while on the palate, all I could taste was the overwhelming sweetness of pumpkin. One of my dining companions described the taste as "savory pumpkin pie." I think a milder squash would be more to my liking.


17: Black Cod
Spaghetti Squash, Matsutake Mushrooms, Foie Gras Dashi. Dashi is a Japanese broth made from kombu (kelp) and katsuobushi (bonito shavings), and the addition of foie gave it an uncharacteristic richness and saltiness. I think the ingredients here tended to mask the delicate taste of the fish, and sadly, the fantastic flavors of matsutake mushroom (which I enjoyed greatly at Urasawa recently) were lost as well. The fish did have a lovely texture though, perhaps the result of sous-vide cooking?


To go with the heartier dishes, our choice of red was the Peter Michael L'Esprit des Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma 2005 [$207]. "L'Esprit" is the sister wine to the famed "Les Pavots" and is also a red Bordeaux blend, consisting of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. I thought it was quite delicious, with plenty of dark fruit, smoke, and a bit of mint. Spiciness develops in the mouth, and a mild acidity picks up in the finish. The wine retails for around $100.


18: Jidori Chicken
Mesquite, Cornbread, Wildflower Honey, Spinach. All the rage these days, Jidori chickens are premium birds raised cage-free on all-natural grain diets. The result on the plate was chicken that almost didn't seem like chicken. The flavor was extremely mild, and the texture almost creamy (something quite atypical of chicken!). The spinach, meanwhile, added a resounding bitterness into the mix while the cornbread and its tough consistency proved to be a pleasing foil. Chicken and cornbread: reminds me of KFC!


19: Liberty Duck
Confit & Prosciutto, Barley, Shiitake and Tamari. I enjoyed the pairing of the rich duck confit with the salty prosciutto. The barley formed an almost risotto-like base for the duck, but the use of tamari (a traditional, low-wheat soy sauce) here made it a bit too strong. It actually drew my attention away from the duck.


20: Ocean Trout
Curry, Fennel, Sea Beans, Concord Grape. The trout had a flaky, salmon-esque consistency to it which I enjoyed, along with a strong, briny sea flavor. I think it would've been fine like this, but the taste was subsequently tempered by the sweetness of fennel and grape, which didn't work so well.


21: Crispy Pork Belly
Pea Leaves, Orange, Salted Cashew. On its own, the pork belly was almost too rich, too fatty. The key I found was to eat it with the pea leaves, which provided a crucial offsetting bitterness. This combination proved very satisfying. I avoided the orange sauce though, which I thought was overly sweet, and reminded me of sweet and sour pork!


22: Saffron-Braised Veal Cheeks
Chickpeas, Zucchini, Cherry Peppers. I usually think of veal as quite boring to be quite honest. This however, was far from it. Due to the braising, the veal was as tender as I've ever had, with a bit of sourness to it (due to the saffron probably), which made things interesting. The chickpeas added a well-placed, hard contrast to the softness of the meat and mashed potato.


23: Japanese A5 Kobe
Chanterelles, Haricot Verts. The standard meat here is Angus rib eye, though we paid a $43 ($35 on the menu?) supplement for A5 (the highest grade) Wagyu beef. I found the meat resoundingly rich and flavorful, not unlike a steak at CUT actually. With beef this good, the accoutrements were totally redundant.


24: California Lamb
Salsify, Medjool Dates, Thyme, Walnuts. I'm usually a big fan of lamb, but found this preparation lacking in flavor. Perhaps it was due to the cooking in a thermal immersion circulator (which circulates warm water over sealed bags of food at a precise, constant temperature), but this lacked the "lamb-y" goodness that I was looking for. Perhaps the lamb was meant as a canvas for the various accompaniments, but I found them far too sweet. This dish needed to be much more savory.


25: Roasted Venison
Onion, Brussels Sprouts, Huckleberry. This was one of the strongest preparations of venison I've had. It was somewhat similar to beef, but not nearly as fatty, but at the same time just as flavorful. I was afraid that the sauce might overwhelm the meat, but that simply just wasn't the case. As with the A5 Wagyu though, I found the other parts of the dish to be superfluous.


With the venison being the last of the savory courses, it was time for cheese. Unlike all the other dishes, the cheese was served simultaneously, which we greatly appreciated.


26: Idiazábal
Dates, Smoked Bacon Powder, PX. Idiazábal is a mildly smoky, nutty cheese made from unpasteurized sheep's milk, from the Basque region in Spain. The dates and PX (Pedro Ximénez) added a sweetness to the cheese, but the main flavor component here was the bacon, which melded so seamlessly with the cheese that the two were almost one. As I've stated before, bacon tends to make everything better, and here it actually reminded me of the Chinese rousong (dried pork with a fluffy texture)!


27: Bleu d'Bocage
Lillet Blanc, Pine, Pumpernickel. Bleu du Bocage is a goat's milk blue made in Vendée, France. It was actually relatively mild for a blue, with a bit of toast and tartness that was offset by the flavor of the Lillet Blanc (an apéritif from Bordeaux). I didn't get much of the pumpernickel though.


28: Mimolette
Apple, Chamomile, Juniper Shortbread. Traditionally produced around Lille, France, Mimolette is a cow's milk cheese with a distinctive orange hue (sort of looks like dried apricot in the photo!). It had a somewhat salty, nutty taste, with a hard complexion . The pairing of the cheese with its accompaniments seemed a bit odd, though palatable.


29: Monte Enebro
Ash and Mold. A Spanish cheese, Monte Enebro is made from pasteurized goat's milk. It had a great, tangy flavor with a smooth, creamy consistency, and was arguably my favorite cheese of the night. The exterior of the cheese is covered in mold, commonly referred to as ash, so I can understand where the "Ash and Mold" name comes from, but I still don't know what the two ingredients actually were. The "mold" did taste like yogurt, but the "ash" has me baffled.


30: Chaource
Frozen Lychee, White Ale. I'm a fan of rich, creamy cheeses like Brillat-Savarin and Camambert, so it was no surprise that I enjoyed the Chaource, an unpasteurized cow's milk cheese from Champagne, France. The cheese was a fantastic complement to the lychee and white ale, and eating all three components together was heavenly.


For dessert, we first tried a glass of Rare Wine Co. New York Madeira, Malmsey [$11]. It went well enough with the cheese, with its rich, coffee-like flavor. Next, we received a complementary glass of Weinlaubenhof Alois Kracher Cuvée Beerenauslese, Burgenland, Austria 2006 [$12]. Replete with notes of honey and flower, the wine stood up nicely to the sweetness of the desserts.


31: White Chocolate Cube
Orange Blossom Cream, Coriander, Pistachio, Sake. The work of Pastry Chef Jordan Kahn, this seemed more like modern art than a dessert. In addition to French Laundry, Kahn has worked at Alinea (a place known for its avant garde cuisine), and this definitely would not look out of place there. The cube had a surprisingly resilient shell, but once I broke through, I was award with a multilayered amalgam of apricot, pistachio, orange, and yogurt. It was a complex sweetness that was simply brilliant. If XIV needs a signature dessert, let this be the one!


32: Passion Fruit Curd
Tomato Marmalade, Jasmine, Cashew, Brown Butter. I tried the brown butter by itself, and my god, it was strong! But paired with the mildness of the curd, the intense flavor of burnt sugar actually worked pretty well. The effect of the jasmine and tomato was largely lost on me though.


33: Lemongrass Custard
Cola, Buttermilk, Sweet Potato-Yuzu Mochi, Saffron. The mochi here was immensely fascinating, and really was the star of the dish for me. Its light, fluffy texture formed a fitting contrast for the creaminess of the lemongrass custard and buttermilk, while the overall the taste was almost Thai-like in nature. Just be careful not to cut yourself on the saffron "glass!"


34: Bitter Chocolate Cream
Ube, Mozzarella Milk Ice, Elderflower, Violet. Sure, I've eaten gold plenty of times, but this was my first experience with silver! Looking like the ink from a metallic pen, the silver-infused sauce was simply mesmerizing. I had to concentrate to let it not distract me from the cake and the wonderful mozzarella ice cream, which was reminiscent of string cheese, but with more sweetness.


35: Hazelnut Milk
Frosted Celeriac, Tennessee Whiskey, Wood Ice Cream. The last course. Again, a very playful and inventive dessert. Celeriac is a kind of celery root, and here took a form not dissimilar to Frosted Flakes. We were instructed to mix everything up before drinking, again, a very Alinea-esque touch. The resulting concoction had a strong hazelnut base, punctuated by hints of wood and whiskey. Très cool!



At the conclusion of our meal, Chef de Cuisine Steven Fretz took us on a brief tour of the kitchen. In the first photo, we see the hot station in the foreground, in front of the fish station. The second photo shows the tandoor used to prepare the naan, and finally we see the thermal immersion circulators used in XIV's sous-vide cooking.


Our final bill was somewhat strange. The A5 Wagyu upgrade was $43 per person instead of the $35 on the menu. Also, it appears that $36 of "goodwill" was written off; this is the first time I've ever seen mention of that on a check. In any case, the numbers don't add up (it should be $951 prior to any "goodwill"), and we were grossly undercharged for tax. In the end, we didn't make a fuss, since the restaurant was very accommodating to our requests, we were charged $40 per person instead of $60 for the caviar, we received a complementary glass of Kracher, and it seemed like the restaurant took care of the $14 charge for parking. It's pretty much a wash I'm sure.


On the left, we have a photo with Executive Chef Michael Mina, who came out to speak with us during the course of the meal. Next is a photo with Chef de Cuisine Steven Fretz during our kitchen tour.

Quite simply, XIV turned out to be surprisingly good. I came in expecting disaster, but Mina and company delivered on nearly every front, especially when considering that this was opening night. Despite some misses, the food was, in general, quite good. Some dishes were too ambitious, but for the most part, the unique combinations of taste and texture worked out marvelously. The staff is also to be commended for putting up with us and our "special" needs, especially Sommelier Christopher Lavin. And speaking of the staff, XIV's must have been the most beautiful I've ever encountered; indeed I certainly don't mind some eye candy both on and off the plate!

In any case, XIV is a serious restaurant, with serious food. My only concern is the target clientele, which didn't seem nearly as serious. I wonder if the Hollywood crowd will be enough to support a place like this, which is pretty much just a restaurant, with no "club" aspect to it. Time will tell, but in the meantime, welcome back to LA Mr. Mina!

Studio (Laguna Beach, CA)

Studio
30801 Coast Hwy, Laguna Beach, CA 92651
949.715.6420
www.studiolagunabeach.com
Fri 10/10/2008, 08:00p-11:30p



I'd been interested in trying out Studio for a number of years now. I was thus quite excited to find out that a few buddies of mine were taking me there for my birthday. Now mind you, my birthday was in June, so this was quite a bit belated, but it's the thought that counts right? In any case, a lot of people have stated that Studio is, in fact, the best restaurant in Orange County, a pretty lofty assertion to be sure. I was eager to test out that claim...


Located on the grounds of the Montage Resort & Spa, Studio is somewhat difficult to find (especially in the dark!), as we had to enlist the help of the staff. The restaurant is located on a bluff near the Pacific, and the spot affords diners a breathtaking view of the ocean, in the day time at least.


Studio's space is homey, rustic, yet refined, like a craftsman-style bungalow. Upon entering, you're greeted by the large wooden bar, which then spills into the main dining room. The result is seating for 80, while a private dining room accommodates 24. Past the gleaming kitchen, the Chef's Table seats an additional 12. Finally, outdoor tables can hold another 40 or so.


I think this is the first time I've seen the Executive Chef's name (James Boyce) emblazoned on the silverware.



Since we were a party of four, two of us ordered the Chef's Tasting Menu at $125 plus $75 for wine, and two of us ordered the Fall Vegetable Tasting Menu at $90, also with a wine pairing. In addition, we decided to supplement our meal with two orders of the lobster risotto (I have trouble not getting the risotto if offered!). Note the signature of Chef Boyce. Click for larger versions.


Since I asked for a listing of the wines paired with the Vegetable Menu, Sommelier Nina Elena Rosas was kind enough to hand-write a listing of all the courses. Click for a larger version.


As usual, I started with a Mojito. The example here was not overly sweet for a change (see Ciudad), but actually quite strong, as was my dining companion's Cucumber Gimlet.


A trio of bread was available: French baguette, sweet anise, and cranberry walnut, with my favorite being the anise with its subtle flavor. They were served with an organic homemade cow's milk butter, produced just for the restaurant; I found it quite rich, with a strong tinge of sweetness.


Amuse Bouche a: Baby Beets and Shaved Fennel
This was the amuse for the Vegetable Menu. The beet here was quite mild and served more as a canvas to the tang of the fennel and sweetness of the citrus.


Amuse Bouche b: Butternut Squash Soup, Crème Fraîche, Apples
The butternut squash soup had a cool, creamy sweetness which was highlighted by the fresh crispness of apples. Most of us preferred this to the beet.


1a: Charentais Melon Smoothie
G.H. Mumm, Cordon Rouge, Champagne, France NV
Whipped fagé yogurt and orange blossom honey. Charentais is a type of cantaloupe cultivated in Europe. Made into a "smoothie" here, I found its sweetness a bit too dominant, as it tended to overwhelm the subtle sweetness of the bits of fruit in the middle. Those tiny cubes of pear and apple did add a great textural contrast however. Overall, the dish was extremely light, and thus Champagne was a good fit. I think this was my first time having Mumm's Cordon Rouge, which the sommelier compared to Moët et Chandon's White Star. Actually, I think it may have been better, as I found it very balanced and smooth, with subtle vanilla and floral notes.


1b: Chilled Hog Island Oysters
Don Olegario Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain 2006
Fall squash mignonette. Hog Island raises Pacific, Kumamoto, and Atlantic oysters, so I wonder which type these were. No matter, they were very good. The oysters had a delectable texture and bite to them, while the mignonette added a sweet tartness to offset oysters' brininess. I usually like to do Champagne with oysters, but the Albariño was a good match as well. It was an easy-drinking wine, with light acidity, hints of apple and honey, a mineral tinge, and a smooth, friendly finish.


2a: Heirloom Tomato and Stonefruit Salad
Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett, Erdener Treppchen, Germany 2007
Micro opal basil and Dijon mustard vinaigrette. The tomato itself had a fantastic, hearty texture and a slight sweetness. However, it was outshone by the fruit, which added tons of sweetness, and the vinaigrette, which contributed a contrasting savoriness. Such a dish needed a wine with a similar flavor profile. Riesling was a wonderful choice, and Dr. Loosen didn't disappoint, showing citrus, stone fruit, and floral notes on the nose and palate, while remaining grounded by a bit of tart acidity.


2b: Honey-Cured Crisp Pork Belly
Domaine Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris, Clos Windsbuhl, Alsace, France 2004
Heirloom apples, sultanas, harissa-cider syrup. I really enjoyed the pork belly by itself, which I found very rich, juicy, and flavorful, one of the strongest I've had actually. Meanwhile, the sultanas (a type of raisin) and apples added a sweet bent to the dish (pork and apple is a classic combination), while the harissa went the course of salty/spicy. Unfortunately, the accoutrements didn't work out quite as nicely as would've liked. I think a red wine would've worked here, but the Pinot Gris held its own. It had a bit of sweetness to pair with the raisin/apple sauce, and was weighty enough to stand up to the pork belly.


3a: Quinoa and Zucchini Flower Risotto
Rombauer Chardonnay, Carneros, California, 2007
Golden raisins and currants, Nantes carrots. A very interesting "risotto," as instead of rice, quinoa was used; it had a light, fluffy texture more reminiscent of couscous than rice. Mixed with the raisins and currants, the "risotto" had a marked sweetness that made me think of an Indian biryani. The fried zucchini flower, meanwhile, reminded me of an onion ring both in taste and texture! I'm not sure I was sold on the combination though. The paired Chard was quite buttery, as one would expect from Rombauer, but not overly so. It had medium body, flavors of honey and light fruit (that connected with the fruit in the dish), and a finish surprisingly well balanced by oak.


3b: Pan Seared Wild Scottish Salmon
Brogan Pinot Noir, Morning Dew, Anderson Valley, California 2006
Roasted white corn-pimento relish, dill, brown chicken sauce. This was my favorite dish of the night! I found the salmon extremely juicy, tender, flaky, and flavorful, among the best examples of cooked salmon I've had. The corn added a great contrast to the fish, though I've would liked the dill to be more apparent. In any case, the fish had enough depth and weight to stand up to the paired Pinot.


Supplement: Maine Lobster Risotto [$26.00]
William Fevre "Champs Royaux" Chablis, Burgundy, France 2006
Late summer Gloria's sweet corn, Perigord black truffles. As I mentioned before, if risotto is on the menu, I have a hard time not ordering it, hence this. We actually requested two servings for the four of us, so this half serving was rather miniscule as you can see. Nevertheless, the lobster was near perfect, with a subtle sweetness and a fantastic, crisp crunch. There was a faint aroma of truffle on the nose, but the actual taste was mild. The problem was that the dish needed more risotto. It must have had a 3:1 lobster:rice ratio; now I'm not saying give me less lobster, just more rice! The pairing of white Burgundy with lobster is a classic one, and the combination worked well here. The Chablis had just enough weight, with flavors of minerals and stone fruit leading to a firm finish.


4a: Fall Mushroom Lasagna
Nautilus Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand 2007
Wilted greens and spinach coulis, pine nut cream. This reminded me more of an open faced ravioli than a lasagna. Fortunately, that detail didn't hamper my enjoyment of the dish. The woody flavor of mushroom formed a pleasing interplay with the subtle bitterness of the puréed spinach sauce. The pasta sheets then acted to tie all the various elements together, while the pine nut cream added richness and depth. Unfortunately, the matched Pinot was not particularly memorable.


4b: Grilled Broken Arrow Ranch Elk Loin
Josef Umathum Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria 2003
Jones Farm baby turnips, parsnips, wild mushrooms. I do believe this was my first time having elk, though one of my dining companions insisted that we had had it at the Bellagio buffet. In any case, I found the meat delicious. It was definitely leaner than beef, but richer than buffalo, like venison. It was also quite juicy and tender, with a toothsome flavor that easily stood on its own sans any sauces. The pairing of Zweigelt worked well enough.


5: Bellwether Farm Carmody
Mas Amiel, Roussillon, France 2001
Concord grape jam. Carmody is a cow's milk cheese aged for six weeks. It had a semi-hard texture and a smooth consistency, while taste-wise, I found it quite mild. It was a fine canvas for the lovely toasted pepitas (squash seeds) and their smoky flavor, as well as the intense sweetness of the Concord jam. The wine was a sweet Grenache blend. Very fruity and jammy, it went quite nicely with the dish.


6a: Olive Oil Polenta Cake
Far Niente Dolce, Napa, California 2004
Marcona almonds and blackberries, mascarpone ice cream. I really enjoyed the mascarpone ice cream here, but unfortunately, I thought that the cake was too dry and thus a bit difficult to actually eat. The almonds seemed out of place, but the blackberries formed a wondrous match with the ice cream. As for the wine, Dolce is perhaps the most famous dessert wine in the US; surprisingly, this was my first time having it. A mix of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, Dolce is made in a pseudo-Sauternes style, replete with botrytis. Its nose was rather mild, but the taste was explosive, with strong flavors of stone fruit, honey, and spice, tempered by a medium acidity.


6b: Lady Pear Caramel
Villiera, Inspiration, Paarl, South Africa 2001
Chai ice cream, flax seed tuile. Again, the ice cream was the best part of this dessert, while the pear caramel reminded me of a warm apple tart. The temperature and texture contrast did work out pretty well though. It was interesting to compare this dessert wine with the Dolce. Made from Chenin Blanc, its nose was much more intense, with strong notes of orange, caramel, and spice. However, on the palate, the Villiera was much more restrained.


Complementary Dessert 1: Single Estate Chocolate and Toffee Trio [$15.00]
Caramel molten cake and praline crunch, toffee milkshake. This special birthday dessert turned out to be my favorite. The molten cake wasn't anything particularly special, but I quite enjoyed the praline crunch. The milkshake, meanwhile, was simply fantastic, with the rich taste of toffee backed by chocolate.


Complementary Dessert 2: Grilled Heirloom Peaches and Brown-Butter Cake [$15.00]
Trio of ice creams: Hawaiian ginger, Ceylon cinnamon and demerara brown sugar. Much to our surprise, the restaurant brought out another complementary dessert! All three quenelles of ice cream were phenomenal, with each having its own unique flavor and charm, while the cake and peaches served as fitting accompaniments.


A hearty plate of mignardises to close out the meal.


During the course of the meal, Chef Boyce invited us into the kitchen for a photo.

All in all, Studio was a very nice birthday present. Chef Boyce is obviously cooking at a level above most in the area, which makes Studio a very special restaurant indeed. Though at the same time, I must concede that his efforts did not always go over well with me, as sometimes I thought that he went a bit awry with his flavor pairings and that his efforts were too ambitious. But best in Orange County? Yeah, I could see it.

Urasawa (Beverly Hills, CA) [3]

Urasawa
218 N Rodeo Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.247.8939
www.yelp.com/biz/urasawa-beverly-hills (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Sat 10/04/2008, 08:00p-12:30a



Three times a charm? Since this is my third Urasawa report, I'll skip the typical introductory and decor sections (see my previous posts here and here for that) and get straight to the vittles. As an interesting aside, we found out that Urasawa-san's sister, Yoshie, was working here now. She started a while ago, after business picked up due to the restaurant's garnering of a two-star Michelin rating. Apparently, the secret's out!


A nice selection of premium sakes is available, and I always like to start with sake for the kaiseki portion of the meal, while I reserve Champagne for the sushi. Wine is also available, though I wonder about the reds. Wouldn't they overpower the delicate flavors of Urasawa's cuisine (especially the sushi)? The list is French- and California-focused, with mark ups being on the higher end of the range. Click for larger versions.


For sake, we went with a new one, the Fukukomachi [$150], a daiginjo (I believe the sake list incorrectly lists it as a junmai-daiginjo) from the Kimura Brewery in Akita. The details are: +5.0 specific gravity, 16.5% alcohol, 40% polish ratio, Yamadanishiki rice. I found it rather tasty: smoky, slightly viscous, with a tinge of fruity sweetness and vanilla. For the sushi, I brought a bottle of 2002 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut from my personal cellar (corkage is up to $50!). I liked it better than the last time I had it, at Capo. It seemed more refined, smoother, softer, yet still abound with hints of stone fruit, citrus, and toast; I think this will be even better with more age. We offered Urasawa-san some, and he seemed to enjoy it as well, finishing his entire glass!


1. Toro Tataki - Seared toro, orange ponzu, daikon, scallion, shiso, gold foil, chrysanthemum flower, shiso flower. The topping of scallion and daikon went wonderfully with the two beautifully seared pieces of toro, adding complexity and textural contrast, while the ponzu added a reverberating sweetness. A great way to kick off the meal, though I think the ponzu could've had more savory components (perhaps soy?) to offset its overt sweetness.


2. Hamo Nambanzuke - I think this was the first time I've had hamo. Hamo is also known as daggertooth pike conger eel, pike eel, or simply king eel (as Urasawa-san called it). Here, it was presented nambanzuke style, basically marinated in sweet vinegar and lightly fried, and covered by strands of carrot and grated sudachi. The eel had an initial sweetness and tartness (probably due to the marinade), which then led way to a ham-like smokiness. One of my dining companions even likened the taste to bacon!


3. Edamame Tofu - Edamame tofu is a type of kinugoshi (silken) tofu made from edamame, or fresh green soybeans (as opposed to soy milk), which give the tofu its unique pale green tint. It had a very soft, custard-like texture, with a flavor highlighted by nutty notes of soybean. In this dish, the tofu was accompanied by ikura, ebi, uni, mitsuba vegetable (Japanese wild parsley, or honeywort), and gold foil. The salmon roe added a great salty tang to the relatively mild tofu, while the mitsuba contributed a slight bitterness and a fantastic crunchiness to the dish.


In this most recent visit, it seemed like Urasawa-san's new assistant (and his brother-in-law), Ken I believe is his name, has been taking on more responsibility in terms of the food. Above, we see him preparing the sashimi course. As I mentioned in my last report, Urasawa-san's last assistant, Sung, has moved on to become a chef at French Laundry. Apparently, Sung wanted to learn more about French culinary technique, and, from what I understand, his desire became a reality when French Laundry's Chef de Cuisine Corey Lee came to visit Urasawa. Thomas Keller was a friend of Masayoshi "Masa" Takayama, Urasawa-san's teacher (legend has it Keller convinced Masa to move to New York), so it just seems appropriate that Urasawa-san and Keller's protégé, Lee, would cross paths.



4. Sashimi - Set in a hand-carved ice block, the three types of fish were toro from Boston, tai from Kyushu, and kampachi from Toyama. Accoutrements included fresh wasabi from Shizuoka (which produces over half of the wasabi in Japan), red cabbage, nori, and daikon. The toro was quite fatty, though a bit tendinous, while the snapper and kampachi were very mild and clean tasting, with no hint of fishiness. We were told to put seaweed in the provided soy sauce, which really complemented the fish, adding layers of complexity and contrast. A funny thing happened when I tried to sample the wasabi alone. Ken nearly jumped over the counter to stop me! I had to reassure him that I just wanted to see what the wasabi was like on its own.


5. Dobin Mushi - The dobin mushi was a soup consisting of matsutake mushroom, awabi, ebi, tai, gingko, mitsuba, and sudachi. The stock is dashi-based, which gives the soup a sweet-smoky taste, while the sudachi adds a notable tangy zest. The best part however, were the matsutakes and their woody, earthy flavor; the timing of our visit was good, as matsutake season starts in September. The soup was served in a clay tea pot, along with a small saucer. After eating the various ingredients, you pour the soup in the saucer to drink (tricky apparently--my dining companions had trouble with spillage), and the requisite small sips make you savor the soup even more. Fantastic!


6. Awabi "Karaage" - Fried Japanese abalone, served with a hint of sudachi juice. This was one of the best preparations of abalone I'd ever had, next to the awabi nigiri I had at Go's Mart. The pieces were tender, the result of six hours of boiling with kombu, but still had a delightful crunch. Taste-wise, the abalone was very subtle, very refined, great by itself, but enhanced even further by the zest of sudachi. I could just eat a whole bucket of this, like it were KFC popcorn chicken!



7. Seared Toro - I believe this was actually kama toro, or toro from the collar of the tuna. Rarer and pricier than mere toro, it's even more melt-in-your-mouth, and even more flavorful! Upon touching the hot stone, the fish produced a plume of rich, oily smoke that enveloped the surrounding area (that's why napkins were laid down--to protect the counter). Mouths watering, we waited intently as our servers lifted the toro off the hot stone and plopped it down into a bath of ponzu. At this point, the toro was looking not like fish, but beef. Eating the result was like an explosion of flavor and fat in my mouth, and elicited a moan of satisfaction from me.


8. Saga Beef - The meat was boiled with sake and soy for two days, resulting in an incredibly soft, yet rich consistency, and a taste that was both sweet and savory. Flavor-wise, it reminded me a bit of Chinese-style braised beef, but the texture was totally different. The fat was very fine, very integrated, but not overwhelming; it was easy to chew, but provided just enough resistance to make it interesting. The various vegetables, meanwhile, added some contrast to the meat; otherwise, it would've been too monolithic. I liked this even better than the Saga beef I had on my first visit to Urasawa.


Click the photo on the left for a video of Urasawa-san preparing a spiny lobster for our shabu-shabu course. He made sure to ham it up for the camera!





9. Shabu-Shabu - The number of ingredients for the shabu-shabu just keep on increasing. The first time, it was three, then four the next time, now five! We had ise ebi (spiny lobster), hotate (scallop), hamo (king eel), Saga beef, and foie gras. The first item our servers plopped in was the foie, followed by the lobster. The lobster came out quickly and was great, with a superb sweetness and snap. Next was the king eel, which I preferred to the nambanzuke version. The scallop came next, which I found to be a bit nondescript, the weakest of this quintet. Finally, it was time for the foie, which turned out wonderfully, with a subtle, yet powerful taste and a delightful, slightly rubbery texture; it was one of the best cooked preparations I've had (my best ever is still a foie gras terrine at French Laundry though). Following the foie was the beef, which was arguably my favorite of the bunch. Finally, we were instructed to take out and eat the kombu kelp (a change from previous visits, where the kombu stayed in).


10. Kombu Broth - As usual, the remaining kombu stock formed a hearty soup to enjoy before the sushi courses. This time, the soup had a very recognizable essence of foie gras, which had absolutely permeated the liquid! Upon sipping, you're hit initially by a light, kombu-tinged flavor, which quickly gives way to the richness of the foie.


With the appearance of gari (ginger), we knew that the gauntlet of sushi was about to begin.


11. Toro - Very nice, with a clean, yet rich taste, though noticeably less oily and less fatty than kama toro. Although Urasawa's toro is arugably the best I've had in the States, it wasn't quite as strong as the toro I had at Kyubey in Tokyo, which remains my best to date.


12. Seared Toro - The regular toro was just about perfect, but cooking the fish slightly seemed to make it even better. It softened the meat, accentuated the oiliness of the fish, and added a touch of smokiness that resulted in further complexity and contrast.


13. Kampachi - I preferred this preparation of kampachi to the sashimi version. It had a more toothsome taste as well as a more satisfying, crunchier texture.


14. Tai - A beautiful piece of fish, this snapper, as with the kampachi, outshone the sashimi we had earlier in the night. The sudachi zest added a fantastic tanginess to the fish, and the tai's slightly chewy texture was an added bonus.


15. Seki Aji - I was told that this was not mere aji (Spanish mackerel), but Seki aji from Kyushu. Considered pretty much the best aji available, Seki aji is caught in the Bungo Straight, which separates Kyushu from Shikoku; Seki saba is also available. The fish was very mild, lacking any of the offensive fishiness found in some lesser quality mackerels. I believe the only other place I've had Seki aji was Go's Mart. An interesting note: when we were served this, I asked about the distinction between aji and sawara. If I understood correctly, it seems like "sawara" refers to Spanish mackerel in the New York region, while outside the area, the term "aji" is generally used.


Click the photo above for a video of Urasawa-san preparing a piece of maguro nigiri sushi.


16. Maguro - We were told that this was bluefin tuna. Tuna can often times be quite boring, but the liberal use of wasabi here made the fish more interesting than I expected.


17. Shiitake - Urasawa remains the only place where I've had shiitake sushi. It's one that I look forward to, as its simple preparation really lets the woody, earthy nature of the mushrooms shine through, highlighted by a bit of wasabi.


18. Uni - This was some of the best uni I've had! Ridiculously creamy and quite sweet, it had absolutely no bitterness to it. The uni was from Santa Barbara. Unfortunately, one of the other diners at the restaurant, who I assume was drunk, rudely questioned this choice of SB uni, which seemed to upset Urasawa-san. He basically asked: "Why do you use Santa Barbara uni? Have you tried all the other unis? How do you know it's the best?" To which Urasawa-san replied: "Because I'm the chef!"


19. Ika - The toppings of sudachi and seaweed salt really added a fitting contrast to the mild flavor of the squid. Texture-wise, the ika was nicely firm, with a rich, almost creamy complexion that coated the mouth.


20. Mirugai - Mirugai is also known as geoduck. It had a refreshing crunch to it, as well as a clean, briny flavor and just a hint of sweetness.


21. Shima Aji - Striped jack or yellowjack, this was one of my favorites last time I was here. This time, it wasn't quite as strong, as it seemed to lack the level of complexity I experienced before. Nevertheless, it was still delectable.


22. Aji No Tataki - This was minced Spanish mackerel, along with shiro miso from Kyoto, scallion, shiso, and ginger. Urasawa is the only place I've seen do something like this. There were so many layers of flavor going on here, with the fish serving as a formidable base for the sweetness of the miso, bitterness of the scallion, and tang of the ginger and shiso.


23. Awabi - Here we see a before and after. The abalone had a nice firm crispness, with a good application of sudachi to counteract the brininess of the mollusk. Note the scoring on the surface of the abalone, which served to tenderize it.


24. Sanma - Mackerel pike or Pacific saury, with salt, sudachi, served on rice mixed with chopped shiso. The preparation of this dish was interesting, as it was made in one long piece of nigiri (I presume since the fish is long and thin), then cut, almost like a roll. It was "grilled" with a hot metal rod pressed against the top of the fish, which actually caused flames to shoot out from the surface! Again, I've never had anything quite like this at any other restaurant. The sanma had a distinctive saltiness and fishiness to it, balanced by a subtle sweetness.


Click on the photo above for a video of Ken preparing scallop. He cut open two scallops, only to find them unresponsive, and thus not fit for serving. They were thrown out, though I think we would've enjoyed eating them anyway!


So instead of scallop, we got spiny lobster instead. Click the photo on the left for a video of Ken prepping the live lobster, which continued to move about even after being cut in half!


25. Ise Ebi - Spiny lobster, otherwise known as rock lobster; despite the name, it's actually not a "true" lobster. Nevertheless, the flesh tasted very fresh (as it should, given the lobster was alive just minutes prior!), with a satisfying crunch and a nice bit of sweetness. I preferred this sushi preparation to the shabu-shabu above.


26. Negitoro Maki - Toro with negi (leek) and takuan (pickled daikon, believed to help aid digestion). The daikon came in a wheel-like shape, from which Urasawa-san cut long, thin strips. I really enjoyed the great crunch and sourness of the takuan and how the bitterness of the scallion contrasted with the richness of the tuna. It was good alone but even better when eaten with the provided soy sauce.


27. Gyusashi - This was our third helping of Saga beef! It had a mildly smoky flavor, paired with an extremely soft, yet chewy texture. I liked it better than shabu-shabu version. Delish!


28. Anago - The eel's flesh was lean, soft, and broke apart easily in the mouth. The sauce added a bit of sweetness, but I was hoping for something fuller and richer. Perhaps unagi (freshwater eel) would better suit my taste here?


29. Tamago - Urasawa has one of the more interesting preparations of tamago I've seen. Instead of an omelet, you get something closely resembling a cake, and in fact, it's actually baked in a pan. The tamago first gives you a hint of egg flavor, then moves on to a long, subtly sweet finish. Quite nice, though my favorite tamago is still at Natori.


30. Nashi Gelée - A jelly-like concoction of nashi, or Asian, pear, with ume (Japanese apricot) sauce, goji berry, and gold flake. The gelée itself was very light and refreshing, and I especially enjoyed use of pieces of crisp pear in the dessert. The ume sauce was interesting in that it was more savory than sweet in flavor; thus, it wasn't particularly tasty when eaten alone, but provided a good foil to overt the sweetness of the pear.


31. Goma Aisu Kurimu - On my previous visits, I've had white sesame ice cream, but this time it was black sesame ice cream, topped with sesame seeds, red bean paste, and gold flake. It was incredibly smooth, with an undeniably rich flavor, which I liken to the Chinese dessert tangyuan. I wanted to order a pint of this to take home!


32. Matcha - Served here with dessert, matcha is a powdered green tea used in Japanese tea ceremonies. The taste was gritty, and slightly bitter, which contrasted nicely with the sweetness of the dessert. I noticed that, using a chasen, Urasawa-san whisks the tea on a special decorative mat, perhaps as a symbolic reference to Japanese tea ceremony?


33. Hoji Cha - Hoji cha is a roasted green tea often drunk before one goes to sleep. It was quite delicious here, and I must've had four or five cups, as our servers kept giving us refills while we were chatting with Urasawa-san at the end of the meal.


As expected, the bill was fairly prodigious, but totally worth it. I noted that the corkage fee had gone up from $30 to $50 since my last visit (it was $0 the first time I was here!).


During my first visit to Urasawa, I'd wondered about the names on the chairs at the bar. I inquired this time, and it turns out that the chairs originate from the old Ginza Sushi-Ko (Masa Takayama's old restaurant). Money was tight, and in order to fund the restaurant, seats were sold to 20 "members" at $15,000 a pop. These members were entitled to 10% off their bill, and received preferential seating at the bar.

Once again, Urasawa delivers a simply epic meal, and reaffirms its spot at the top of the Japanese restaurant hierarchy. It's truly an experience unlike any other I've encountered in the States, a personal one where you get to really see the heart and soul of a chef. The only thing that marred my experience really had nothing to do with the restaurant: some of the other diners, including the one who nearly insulted Urasawa-san concerning his choice of uni. Such uncouth behavior (including drunken political diatribes about the $700 billion Fed bailout) really doesn't have its place here, and I could tell that Urasawa-san was a bit upset at this as well. I'm sure that, given the restaurant's increasing popularity, occurrences such as this are bound to increase in frequency. Perhaps in the future, we'd be wise to book up the entire restaurant as we did last time...

Fogo de Chão (Beverly Hills, CA)

Fogo de Chão
133 N La Cienega Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211
310.289.7755
www.fogodechao.com
Thu 10/02/2008, 06:35p-11:15p



Founded in Brazil, Fogo de Chão is perhaps the most famous churrascaria chain in the world. A churrascaria is basically a Brazilian steakhouse, in which meats are cooked on rotisseries and served rodizo-style, meaning that you pay a fixed price for waiters to bring you offerings of skewered meat throughout the meal, until you're close to bursting and in a meat coma. The meal was sponsored entirely by FoodDigger, an emerging online food-related community and restaurant review site; thus, I had no out-of-pocket costs save for the cost of gas used to drive to the restaurant. In any case, it'd been a while since I'd been to a Brazilian barbeque, so I was thus quite looking forward to the meal, both for the food as well as for meeting the other invited food bloggers: Famished L.A., The Foodie Traveler, Food Destination, Grubtrotters, Teenage Glutster, and Wandering Chopsticks.


Located on Beverly Hills' famed Restaurant Row, Fogo de Chão stands out from the crowd with its conical blue tower. Parking is primarily valet, though some street parking is available. Parking in the nearby residential areas is possible, though make sure not to park in a permit-required zone (we once received a ticket for doing so while dining at Matsuhisa, located next door).


The blue tower houses the restaurant's display meat. In the second photo, like moths to a flame, passersby are drawn to the large chunks of rotating beef.



I arrived a bit early, so found myself in the bar area, where I ordered a mojito, but was offered a caipirinha instead. The caipirinha is Brazil's national drink, and is made with cachaça (a rum-like alcohol made from sugarcane juice), sugar, and lime. Taste-wise, it's fairly similar to a mojito. We were also given some gougère-esque cheese puffs; they were delectable, with soft creamy centers, though not as good as CUT's.


Fogo de Chão is a large restaurant, with seating for roughly 280 patrons, semi-private dining for 80, and a private dining room for 20. Numerous tables surround a central salad bar area, while a wine cellar takes up a good portion of one side of the room. The space is decorated by rustic murals, while dark wood and dim lighting complete the ambiance.