Thai Nakorn (Stanton, CA)

Thai Nakorn
11951 Beach Blvd, Stanton, CA 90680
714.799.2031
www.yelp.com/biz/thai-nakorn-restaurant-stanton (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Tue 02/24/2009, 07:55p-08:05p



In my post on Phuket Thai, I wrote that Thai Nakorn is the spot for Thai food in Orange County. The place is almost an institution, having been around for 20 years--a lifetime in the restaurant business. Thai Nakorn (fyi: "Nakorn" means "city") specializes in Northern and Northeastern Thai, or Isan, cuisine. Influenced by neighboring Laos, the food is characterized by its heavy use of chilies, sticky rice, garlic, and lime. Prototypical dishes from the region include larb (meat salad), som tam (spicy papaya salad), and gai yang (grilled chicken).

I'd first eaten at Thai Nakorn many years ago, when it was still at its original location at 8674 Stanton Ave in Buena Park (by Knott's Berry Farm). In 2003, another Thai Nakorn opened up at 12532 Garden Grove Blvd in Garden Grove (by The Block); apparently, there was some family feud and most all the staff left the original Thai Nakorn for this new location. The Buena Park location was eventually shut down in 2005, as the building's landlord wanted to raze the structure in order to clear the way for condos. As for the new Garden Grove location, I actually paid a visit in late 2006 with a Thai colleague of mine--I recall the food being very good. All was going well until January 8, 2007, when the building burned to the ground. I never found out what caused the fire, but I've heard uncorroborated allegations of arson.

I believe the plan by the owners, Wanida Sreewarom and family, is to rebuild in Garden Grove (a quick check on Google Maps confirms this, showing the building under construction). On April 23, 2007, they opened a new Thai Nakorn in Stanton as an interim solution--the subject of this post. At one time, there was also a Thai Nakorn located in Mission Viejo. From what I understand, that restaurant was also the result of some family infighting, and was never up to par food-wise. The family has since rid itself of ownership, and the place is now called Glass Door.


Thai Nakorn's new location is definitely a step down from its former dig in Garden Grove. The restaurant is sandwiched between a Kragen auto parts store and The Lounge, the Thuy Li-owned bikini sports bar-cum-pool hall.


The interior also lacks the glamour of the previous locale, and seems cold, clinical in comparison.


The menu is slightly more interesting than that of your typical Thai place. Note also how the address of the Garden Grove location is still listed along with the Stanton one. Click for larger versions.


To wash down the famously spicy food, we first popped a bottle of Canals & Nubiola Cava Brut from Cataluña, Spain. Cava is, of course, Spain's answer to Champagne, and this was a nice example of it--clean, crisp, refreshing, with loads of citrus, a bit of stone fruit, and some yeast on the finish. Great for staving off the heat.

We then went with a duo of India Pale Ales from Stone Brewing Company in Escondido, CA. IPAs are generally bitter, hoppy beers. The standard Stone IPA was a pretty prototypical example of the style, with loads of hop balanced by the richness of malt and a bit of citrus tang. Kicking things up a notch, the Stone Ruination is a double IPA, meaning more hops, and more malt. Compared to the standard IPA, this was definitely hoppier and more bitter, but also spicier, more floral, and more complex.


Chicken with Green Chili and Mint Over Rice [$8.45]
We wanted a rice-based dish, but something more interesting than the typical Thai fried rice, so we decided to go with this. The chili and basil really came to the fore on the palate, backed by just a hint of mint. The initial sensation then gave way to the comparatively mild savoriness of the rice. It had just the right amount of spiciness, so pouring on the small container of chili sauce pushed things over the top.


Pahd Thai [$8.00]
Pan fried Thai noodles with pork and shrimp. Pad Thai is just about the most prototypical Thai dish out there, so it's a bit surprising that the dish is actually of Vietnamese and Chinese origin, and only became well-known in Thailand in the past century. I'm actually not a huge fan of the dish (give me a pad kee mao any day), but my dining companion wanted to order it. The noodles came with bean sprouts, nuts, and pepper flakes on the side, and we eagerly dumped every last bit of it on. The result was a pad Thai that was a bit too sweet for me, thought this was somewhat tempered by the nutty and spicy components of the dish. I quite liked the crunch provided by the fresh bean sprouts, but overall, I've had better.


Beef Panang [$8.45]
Beef panang is basically a curried beef dish, flavored with coconut, kaffir lime, sugar, and of course, fish sauce (nam pla). The beef itself was almost like a braised preparation, quite tender, and actually reminiscent of the beef in Chinese niu ro mein, or beef noodle soup. Panang typically contains less coconut milk than other curries, and as a result, it was quite spicy indeed, though the bell peppers did offset some of the heat. Very nice. This would be superb over rice.

Thai Nakorn serves up some tasty (and spicy!) food, though at the same time, it wasn't necessarily head and shoulders above other Thai places I've tried. I recall my previous meals at Thai Nakorn being much more interesting, but I really think it comes down to what you get; it definitely helps to come with Thai people who know what to order. Nevertheless, I know I'll be back--hopefully at the newly finished Garden Grove location.

XIV (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

XIV
8117 W Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90046
323.656.1414
www.xivrestaurant.com
Mon 02/23/2009, 08:00p-12:15a



I was one of the first bloggers to cover XIV ("fourteen"), having dined here on opening night in October 2008. As a result, I was invited back for a complementary tasting of restaurant's new Spring menu. I was actually supposed to have dinner in Downtown that night with a colleague of mine (likely at Drago Centro or Rivera), but we changed plans and made our way to XIV, as this was an offer I couldn't pass up.


Note the addition of "A Michael Mina Restaurant" signage, presumably there to capitalize on Mina's brand name. An added bonus: valet is now only $11, instead of $14.



The Philippe Starck-designed interior was as fanciful as always. This time, we were seated toward the back of the room, with an unobstructed view of the kitchen and newly-finished covered Terrace. Unfortunately, the lighting was noticeably dimmer than on my first visit, resulting in me having to poach two candles from a nearby table in order to adequately light the food.


Perhaps the most controversial aspect of XIV is its menu. The idea behind the "social dining experiment" was to have a "family-style" tasting menu--basically the same series of small plates for everyone at the table. The concept was met with some resistance (e.g. "sometimes you just want to have a steak"), and as a result, XIV now offers the choice of à la carte selections as well. Early reports from Chowballa falsely stated that the original concept was to be "chucked" altogether; rather, the new menu comes in addition to what's already available. Diners can still construct their own tasting menus, or choose from the 8/11/14/35-course options. The 35-course "Gamut" (they were also considering calling it the "Gauntlet" I'm told--an apt description) was what I had on my first visit, and naturally, I had to go for it again. The menu was about 75% new, so I was eager to try out the new dishes. The signatures on the menu are of Executive Chef Steven Fretz and Pastry Chef Jordan Kahn; click for a larger version.


Upon being seated, we were brought two glasses of the Chartogne-Taillet Brut Cuvée Michael Mina. It was surprisingly good for a "house" sparkler, showing flavors of apple, lemon, and quite a bit of yeast. Even my dining companion, who's not huge on Champagne, enjoyed it.


The naan was as good as ever, and now comes with a dipping sauce (something akin to tzatziki or raita), giving the bread a refreshingly cool tang. We were told that the idea for naan originally came from Seablue, Mina's Mediterranean restaurant. Later on in the night, we were brought into the kitchen, shown the 500-degree tandoor, and introduced to the dedicated naan chef, reportedly lured away from a top Indian restaurant.


1: Michael's Caviar Parfait
Once again, there was no amuse bouche course, but once again, we started with the wonderful Caviar Parfait. There are a few choices for the roe here, with this example topped with American Osetra sturgeon caviar. The potato croquette was what hit me first, followed by the creamy amalgam of egg, salmon and crème fraîche, finally ending with the briny zest of the caviar. I loved the interplay between the different tastes and textures here, making this multilayered affair a great way to start things off.


Since my dining companion isn't a huge wine drinker, we decided to eschew wine in favor of cocktails. Creative cocktails seem to be all the rage these days, and I'd been very impressed with XIV's selection on my prior visit. My dining companion is a fan of rum, so I recommended a Caipirinha (Weber Haus, Muddled Lime, Demerara Sugar) [$14]. It's Brazil's national cocktail, made here with Weber Haus premium cachaça (a rum-like liquor distilled from sugarcane juice). I had a sip and loved it--it was like a mojito, but not as blunt, with less tartness and a more refined sweetness (perhaps due to the use of Demerara raw cane sugar).

For myself, I ordered a Pineapple Pimm's (Pimm's No. 1, Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva, Pineapple Juice, Angostura Bitters, Bay Leaf) [$15]. This had an intensely pineapple nose that was hardly discernable from pineapple juice, but the taste was fortunately much more complex, with the herbal-tinged spice of the gin-based Pimm's No. 1, the bittersweet flavor of the Matusalem rum, and the bitterness of the Angostura and bay leaf adding complexity over the backdrop of pineapple.


2: Ice Cold Shellfish
White Shrimp Panna Cotta, Kushi Oyster, King Crab. This was almost exactly the same trio as before, save for the inclusion of king crab for steamed clams. The sweet shrimp seemed to be a bit sweeter this time, but this was nicely countered by a sharp, tangy saltiness. The crab, meanwhile, had a great texture and the preparation really allowed the natural flavor of the crustacean to shine through; it went well with the included sauce, but could've stood on its own. Finally, we have the Champagne foam-topped oyster; because I tried it last time, I let my dining companion have at it in its entirety.


3: Ahi Tuna Tartare
Ancho Chile, Pears, Mint, Pine Nuts, Sesame Oil. Tuna tartares are almost clichéd in haute cuisine these days, so it's nice to find one that breaks away from the mold. The anchos (dried poblanos) gave the otherwise mild a tuna a spicy kick, while the use of sesame oil imparted richness to the fish. The pine nuts and pears added contrasting nutty and sweet flavors, while adding a great crunch to the dish.


4: Hamachi Sashimi
Clementine, Radish, Spanish Brandy Gelée. We have here a crudo-esque preparation of yellowtail. The hamachi was a fairly unctuous fish, with a strong flavor and rich body. As such, the pairing of clementine worked very well, tempering the heavy nature of the fish while adding a bit of sweetness. I was fairly pleased with the end result, while my dining companion thought that the flavor was "interesting."


5: Heirloom Beets
Burrata, Wild Arugula, Aged Balsamic, New Olive Oil. Beets seem to have gained popularity in recent years, but I'm still not sold on them. The sweetness of the beets here was intensified by the balsamic, foiling to some extent the savoriness contributed by the burrata and olive oil. Not a huge fan, but the dish worked out reasonably well given my preferences.


6: Baby Frisée & Gem Lettuce
Persimmon, Pomegranate, Pumpkin Seed, Apple. I'm usually not huge on salad, but I really enjoyed this one. The use of pumpkin seed was key, as it added a fantastic lingering nuttiness to the dish, contrasting perfectly with the tart tang of pomegranate. Both elements, along with the apple, made the salad extremely texturally pleasing as well, with the lettuce and frisée tying everything together. Superb.


7: XIV Caesar Salad
Classic Dressing, Shaved Parmesan Reggiano. This was actually a pretty traditional preparation of the classic salad, with the Parmesan cheese adding a rather intense flavor to go along with the tangy Caesar dressing and fishiness of the anchovy. Unexciting, but definitely one of the better versions I've had of this staple.


8: Beef Carpaccio
Hearts of Romaine, Cherry Tomatoes, Horseradish. Another holdover from the previous menu. The beef was mildly flavored, so the tang of horseradish was the focus here flavor-wise. Again, the lettuce was key, adding a light contrast to the rest of the dish. Quite nice.


9: Dungeness Crab Crêpe
Basil, Capers, Scampi Hollandaise. In my last post, I'd complained about the nondescript nature of the Dungeness crab spring roll previously on the menu. That item has been seemingly replaced by this crab crêpe. The crab in the spring rolls was basically indiscernible, but the crustacean's signature sweetness was apparent in spades here, tempered by the rich tartness of the hollandaise and capers.


10: Sea Scallops Tempura
Cauliflower, Passion Fruit, Almonds. Though this dish was exactly the same as before, I liked it a bit better this time around. The natural sweetness of the scallops was very apparent, highlighted by their caramelized exteriors. This was complemented by the nuttiness of the almonds and finally the fruity finish of passion fruit. Very nice.


Once we dispensed with our first round of cocktails, it was time for another. My dining companion ordered a Yuzu "Rickey" (Plymouth, Yuzu, Fresh Lemon, Regan's Orange Bitters #6, Pastis-Rinsed Glass, Crushed Ice, Soda) [$13]. This was basically a variation on the classic Lime Rickey, with yuzu substituted for lime. The overall result was a fanciful interplay between the forces of tart and sweet, over the herbal/spicy backdrop of gin, orange bitters, and pastis (an anise-flavored liqueur--basically absinthe without the wormwood).

As for me, I had the Diablo (Herradura Reposado, Crème de Cassis, Fresh Lime, Ginger Ale) [$15]. Crème de cassis is a black currant-flavored liqueur, and is what I tasted initially in the cocktail. Its flavor is sickly sweet when taken alone, so it was nicely balanced by the sourness of the lime, as well as the subtle vanilla, grass, and honey flavors of the Herradura tequila. Even my tequila-averse dining companion liked this.


11: Salt & Pepper Big Fin Squid
Glass Noodles, Carrots, Sprouts, Ginger. The squid itself wasn't particularly interesting. What was interesting was the contrast between the peppery and sweet components of the course, leading to an Asian-like essence to the whole dish. Better than the first time, though I'm still not enamored with it.


12: Foie Gras Terrine
Cranberry, Cardamom, Greek Yogurt, Flatbread. This was one of the best dishes on my last visit here, and once again, it did not disappoint. The terrine showed off the delicate, yet rich, flavors of the foie gras, while the cranberry gelée built upon that base with a lovely sweetness. Amazingly, my dining companion, who nearly vomited upon having foie gras at TRU in Chicago, actually liked it. A standout.


13: Spring Garlic Soup
Preserved Meyer Lemon, Parsley, Country Bread. The essence of garlic pervaded this surprisingly rich and hearty soup, punctuated by the acidity of lemon and the crispness of the vegetables. The bread was pleasant but pretty much unnecessary.


14: White Asparagus Risotto
Porcini, Chervil, Castelmagno Cheese. I quite liked the flavor of the risotto, with the asparagus and mushroom present but well integrated into the dish. The Castelmagno, meanwhile, added weight and gravity, but too much so in my opinion, muddling a bit of the flavor.


15: Tai Snapper
Tapioca-Crusted, Broccoli Rabe, White Soy Vinaigrette. Upon tasting this, both my dining companion and I instantly noted a distinct Chinese influence, with the accoutrements almost giving it a somewhat "sweet & sour" flavor. The texture, meanwhile, was also akin to Chinese-style fried fish, with a firm yet yielding consistency. Overall very nice--a welcomed addition to the menu.


16: Black Cod
Spaghetti Squash, Bluefoot Mushrooms, Foie Gras Dashi. We had a very similar dish last time, but with matsutake mushrooms instead of blue foot. The combination of mushroom, foie gras, and dashi gave the dish a decidedly "funky" flavor, which dominated whatever flavor was left from the cod. Not a fan of this one.


17: Maine Lobster Pot Pie
Brandied Lobster Cream, Baby Vegetables. The lobster itself was rich, buttery, sweet, with a texture that was tender yet with a nice bite, while the veggies added some color and variety to the course. I especially enjoyed the light, fluffy pie crust in relation to the rest of the dish. Not the most inventive dish, but delicious.


18: Jidori Chicken
Truffled Mac & Cheese, Caramelized Onion Sauce. I'm a fan of mac & cheese, so the truffled, super-cheesy version here suited me well. However, it overpowered the chicken somewhat, which by itself was tender, delicate, and juicy. My dining companion, meanwhile, absolutely loved the onion rings (which I likened to Funyuns).


19: Berkshire Pork
Crispy Pork Belly and Leg, Pea Leaves, Salted Cashew. Basically a duo of pork. I first tried the leg, which was smoky and savory, lean but still moist. The belly was a holdover from before, and was extraordinarily rich and fatty as expected--too much so by itself, but excellent with the pea leaves. The lemon sauce, which was overpowering last time, was fortunately toned down a bit.


At this point, my dining companion was finished with regard to booze, but I continued on with the cocktails, this time a Hylo Swizzle (Mount Gay Eclipse, Velvet Falernum, Parfait Amour, Fresh Lemon, "Swizzled") [$14]. The drink is variation on the famous rum swizzle, "Bermuda's national drink," which is traditionally made with dark rum, fruit juice, and falernum (a sweet syrup used in Caribbean cocktails). This version also included Parfait Amour, a curaçao-based liqueur. The end result was quite pleasing; the base was definitely rum, but it was layered with floral, fruity, tart, and spicy notes.


20: Kobe Burger
French Fries, Farmhouse Cheddar. This was a scaled down version of the standard Kobe burger, so it was more akin to a slider--all the rage these days. In any case, it was one of the most decadent burgers I've had. The meat was nearly ridiculously unctuous, with an almost foie gras-esque flavor. Its richness was aptly cut by the tang of the veggies and sauce. The fries were also a force to be reckoned with. Cooked in duck fat, they were wonderfully crisp, with an herbal zest that was complemented nicely by the surprisingly tart "ketchup."


21: Liberty Duck Breast
Seared Foie Gras, Leg Confit, Pineapple, Star Anise. The duck was quite flavorful on its own, with a taste that was accented by the use of anise. I felt though that the pineapple added a bit too much sweetness to the dish, distracting me from the duck. As for the foie, it was a fairly typical seared presentation; my dining companion didn't enjoy this one quite as much as the terrine (nor did I).


22: Prime Rib Eye
Potato Trio, Roasted Beet Diane Sauce. A nicely done piece of meat, with a great charred exterior and flavorful interior, fatty enough but not overwhelmingly so. The sauce gave the beef just a hint of sweetness without drawing attention away from the meat.


23: Angus Filet Mignon
Short Rib Tortellini, Baby Root Vegetables. A lean but flavorful presentation of beef--I wouldn't mind eating a full size portion of this. The veggies actually went a long way to counter the richness of the meat, and the tortellini, filled with braised short rib, was superb, and could really be a standalone dish.


24: California Lamb Skewer
Loin, Merguez Sausage, Chickpea, Raita. Alternating bits of lamb loin and Merguez sausage (a spicy sausage from North Africa) made up the skewer. The result was phenomenal, a combination of the succulent flavor of lamb commingled with the spiciness of the Merguez. This intensity was moderated and complemented by the cool raita and mild chickpea purée. Easily the most exciting of the meat dishes, and one of the few (unfortunately) that give a peek into Mina's middle-eastern heritage.

For some reason, the final meat course, the strip loin, was skipped. Not a huge loss, but a bit perplexing. Thus, with the savories dispensed with, it was now time for just about the most creative presentations of cheese and dessert this side of Alinea.


My final cocktail was the New York Sour (Bulleit, Fresh Lemon, Egg White, "Claret") [$13]. A sour is a cocktail with a whiskey base, lemon or lime juice, and a sweetener. The whiskey here was Bulleit, a straight American bourbon characterized by its high rye content and long aging. It gave the drink a woody, spicy, smoky flavor that was tempered by the other ingredients. I was especially intrigued by the use of "claret," a term that typically refers to Bordeaux-style wine.


25: Abbaye de Belloc
Quince, Candied Mustard Seed, Sorrel. Things got off to a great start with the Abbaye de Belloc, an unpasteurized semi-hard sheep's milk cheese from the Basque region of France. It had a mild, creamy, subtly sweet flavor that was matched perfectly with the apple-like sweetness of the quince, while the mustards seeds added a crunchy textural contrast.


26: 5 Year Gouda
Hoisin, Roasted Peanuts. Gouda is a cow's milk cheese originating from Holland. The cheese is fairly salty, but can age for several years, developing a sweetness in the process. That sweetness was paired up nicely with the home-made hoisin and its savory/sweet flavor. Finally, the use of peanuts gave the whole commixture a nutty finish.


27: Delice d'Argental
Preserved Plum, Juniper Shortbread. Delice d'Argental is a semi-soft triple-creme pasteurized cow's milk cheese from Bourgogne; it contains crème fraîche, giving it a bit of a tang along with added richness. The cheese pairs well with sweet items, and the plum and honey fit that role deftly, adding depth to the otherwise mild cheese.


28: Fourme d'Ambert
Royal Tokaji, Celery, Black Walnuts. The Fourme d'Ambert is a semi-hard pasteurized cow's milk blue cheese from the Auvergne region of France. The cheese was strong, salty, and nutty on its own, but was expertly tempered by the sweetness of the Royal Tokaji gelée, while the celery provided a refreshing element to the dish.


29: Selles-sur-Cher
Jackfruit, Pistachio, Mimosa Flower. Selles-sur-Cher is a French goat's milk cheese, one that I actually had just days earlier at Mélisse. I must say that I preferred this presentation. The jackfruit provided a delicate sweetness that drew out the mild flavor of the cheese, while the pistachio gave the dish a nutty flavor and wonderful, crunchy finish.


30: Brandied Bananas
Jasmine Ice Cream, Cashew Shortbread, English Toffee. The presence of banana in the dessert was pervasive, but there was so much more going on. Its flavor was countered by the rich caramel smokiness of the toffee and the cool tang of the jasmine ice cream, while the finish was awash with the salty nuttiness of cashew.


31: Grapefruit Sorbet
Greek Yogurt, Kaffir Lime Meringue. An absolutely fanciful looking dessert, this managed to turn an otherwise pedestrian ingredient (grapefruit sorbet) into something truly special. The sorbet itself was infused with the sweet essence of grapefruit, which was mitigated by the light tartness of the yogurt and meringues. At the same time, the meringues provided a fascinating texture to the dessert--light, fluffy, hard, almost like Styrofoam.


32: Macallan Butterscotch
Winter Squash Cake, Toasted Milk Ice Cream, Malt. The overt sweetness of the butterscotch really formed the base of this "shake," heightened and accentuated by the use of woody, smoky, Macallan Scotch. The malt proved to be the perfect accent to this combination, recalling the various malted shakes of my childhood. Very good.


33: Opéra Torte
Almond Milk Ice Cream, Apricot Purée. An opera torte is a multilayered cake, typically made with alternating layers of cream, chocolate, and sponge cake. The torte would've been good on its own, but here it was further elevated by the interplay between the mild, nutty ice cream and tart apricot purée.


34: Dark Chocolate Cake
Spearmint Ganache, Coconut Sorbet. A mere "chocolate cake" might seem boring, but Kahn manages to spice things up here as well, using the mintiness of the ganache and cool tang of the sorbet as foils to the rich bitterness of the dark chocolate. I really liked the somewhat "organic" presentation here as well. A fitting end to our meal.


At the end of the dinner, Chef Fretz gave us a tour of the kitchen, where we were also able to meet Jordan Kahn.

Last time, I wrote that XIV was "surprisingly good." I'm happy to report that the restaurant seems to have been able to keep up this positive momentum, a few weak courses notwithstanding. My desire is that they keep refining and rationalizing the menu, getting rid of ineffectual dishes (as they did with the dreadful Pumpkin Dumplings), introducing new ones, revamping older ones, and bringing back some of the classics (White Chocolate Cube anyone?). The food is as serious and as strong as before, but I sincerely hope that Mina and company can keep it at this level in the face of economic turmoil and persistent Hollywood douche bag crowds--I don't want XIV turning into another Apple.

Mélisse (Santa Monica, CA)

Mélisse
1104 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.395.0881
www.melisse.com
Sat 02/21/2009, 06:45p-11:50p



Ahh Mélisse, named after a lemon-scented herb from the Mediterranean. The restaurant is the brainchild of Chef/Owner Josiah Citrin, who opened Mélisse with wife Diane in July of 1999; the restaurant quickly became, and has remained, one of the top eateries in Southern California.

Previously, Citrin was chef and owner of JiRaffe, which he opened in 1996 with friend and fellow surfer Raphael Lunetta (the two are currently collaborating on Lemon Moon, a breakfast and lunch place). Before that, his résumé included working with two giants of the LA dining scene: Wolfgang Puck of Spago fame, and Joachim Splichal of the Patina Group. At Mélisse, Citrin emphasizes the techniques of traditional French cuisine, commixed with contemporary American flair. A fixture at local farmers' markets, he extols the virtues of local ingredients, which are presented relatively simply at Mélisse--no avant garde or molecular techniques here.

Mélisse had been on my radar for what seemed like forever, but for whatever reason, I'd never got around to going. During the weeks prior to this meal, I'd actually been thinking of planning a group dinner at the restaurant. However, before that could come to fruition, I received an invitation to try Mélisse, gratis no less, from none other than kevinEats reader, t-shirt mogul, Internet entrepreneur, and fellow gourmand Sunshine Megatron, the oft-maligned and mildy infamous founder of T-Shirt Hell. It was an offer I couldn't refuse.


Mélisse is located on the southeast corner of Wilshire and 11th. The valet ($8 if I recall correctly) is located on 11th, just south of Wilshire (immediately to the right of this photo). A word to the wise, don't try to park in the surrounding residential neighborhood unless you want to add at least $50 to your meal tab.


Prior to my visit, the interior of the restaurant had gone through almost a complete renovation. Originally, the space was warmer, more rustic, akin to a French home in the countryside. Now, the room is much more sleek and contemporary, albeit colder, with aubergine walls contrasting with the khaki chairs and ivory tablecloths.


The menu is shown above; click for larger versions. We were originally contemplating ordering one of everything on the menu, but given the scope of the carte, wisely decided to just go with the 13-course Carte Blanche [$210.00] instead, along with a couple of supplements. As always, I requested a copy of the menu at the end of the evening (especially important given that the Carte Blanche is not printed on the regular menu). The request could not be handled on the spot, but I was given copy of the standard menu and told that the Carte Blanche would be emailed to me no later than Tuesday. To the restaurant's credit, Maître d' Matthew Greenberg did send a copy over at 12:52AM that very night (albeit with errors).


Six types of bread were offered, including: bacon, olive, ciabatta, and basil brioche, among others.


I ended up bringing a bottle of 2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut, taken from my personal cellar. Interestingly, Sunshine later mentioned that he also was thinking of bringing the same bottle; great minds think alike I suppose? In any case, it was a fabulous sparkler--soft, sweet, with notes of lemon and stone fruit--but also way more toasty than I remembered. Because of this, it didn't quite reach the heights I experienced at Capo or Urasawa. Surprisingly, I don't think were charged for corkage.


Amuse Bouche: Grape, Goat Cheese, Pistachio
Sort of Mélisse's signature amuse, we have here a single grape, covered in goat cheese, and coated with pistachio bits. The cheese was the first thing to hit me, with its creamy, slightly sour flavor. This was followed up by the sweet, juicy flesh of the grape, which subsequently gave way to a lingering finish of salty pistachio--an interesting way to kick things off.


1: Ahi Tuna
Yuzu Emulsion. This was a very straightforward looking presentation of ahi, but surprised both of us in terms of flavor. The initial taste was light, clean and fruity, quickly leading to a salty zest. However, the tuna left a surprisingly strong lingering fishiness, which was rather unexpected for the normally mild ahi.


2: Fennel Flan
Orange Gelée, Cashew Mousse, Vanilla Essence. We were instructed to eat this from bottom up, in order to properly embrace all the elements at play here, to experience the transitions from sweet to savory, from warm too cool. The result was quite satisfying: a multi-layered, multi-faceted study in temperature, texture, and taste.


3: Artichoke Soup
Confit Roma Tomatoes, Parmesan Reggiano Croquette, Lemon Essence, Shaved Black Truffle. The croquette here reminded me of a Tater Tot(!) and really complemented the hearty artichoke soup, while the freshly shaved truffle provided an overarching, earthy aroma that tied everything together. The tomato confit, meanwhile, added a marked tartness to the dish to counteract all the richness. Very nice.


4: American Osetra
Arctic Char, Potato Blinis, Lemon Crème Fraîche. The Arctic char is closely related to salmon, and thus unsurprisingly, worked beautifully here. The amalgam of the blini and char formed a delicious combination that was further accentuated first by the tartness of the crème fraîche, then by the salty tang of the caviar. A classic combination, perfectly executed.


Supplement: True Japanese Wagyu Beef "Kobe" Tartare "Potato Millefeuille" [$45.00]
Traditional Garnishes. This was a superb tartare; I loved the contrast between the crunchy potato chip and the soft Wagyu, and how the richness of the beef was further heightened by the creaminess of the egg yolk. The only problem was that the beef wasn't uniquely Wagyu; it really could've been any quality cut of beef--that is, the superior marbling and texture of Wagyu wasn't apparent here.



Supplement: Truffle Egg [$55.00]
Melting Organic Egg, Shaved Black Truffles, Truffle Sauce, Jus de Rôti. An absolutely fascinating dish; I've never had anything quite like it before. The first thing that hits you is the intense, earthy aroma of the freshly shaven black truffle. The truffle then takes a back seat as you taste the egg. The egg "white" had a positively unique texture; it was light, airy, fluffy, ethereal, with a very subtle egg flavor. Inside was the runny yolk, which contrary to the egg white, was a rich, creamy base that integrated the various aspects of the dish, moderating the truffle, egg white, and jus. Sunshine even stated that it was "like eating breakfast."


Instead of continuing on with wine, we decided to pair beer with the meal. Mélisse's beer selection is fairly limited, so we ended up going with four of the more interesting selections. First up was the Great White [$6.00], a witbier ("white beer") from Lost Coast Brewery in Eureka, CA. White beer is a type of wheat beer that gets its name from the presence of wheat and yeast particles that give the beer a slightly whitish appearance. It was a nice, refreshing beer, with strong flavor and aromatic components of orange, spice, and herbs; light and zesty, with a wheat-tinged finish. Next was the Spaten Münchner Hell [$8.00], a pale lager by German brewer Spaten-Franziskaner-Bräu (part of InBev). A nicely balanced, tasty, though not outstanding beer, with a crisp, clean, lightly floral taste, and a soft bitterness from the hops.


5: Duo of Mélisse Foie Gras
Pink Lady Apple, Broccoli, Truffle Essence, Tarragon-Sauternes Gastrique. Regular kevinEats readers will know that when it comes to foie gras, I'm definitely a terrine guy. So imagine my surprise when I actually preferred the seared presentation here. My usual complaints are attributable to either an overly strong flavor of the liver, or to the overt sweetness of the foie's accoutrements. Neither case was present here; instead, the flavor was delicate and subtle, with the essence of foie gras coming to the fore in just the right amount. The lentils, meanwhile, proved to be a superb contrast to cut the richness of the foie. Simply one of the best seared presentations I've had in recently memory. The terrine, on the other hand, fell a bit short, as the foie's natural flavor was somewhat subdued, instead replaced by a salty finish. The pâté was also served warmer than I prefer, with a consistency that was slightly too mushy.


6: Maine Diver Scallop
Arugula, Endives, Fumet d'Oursin. The scallop itself was just about perfectly cooked, with a lovely charred, flavorful exterior surrounding a cool, delicate, sweet interior replete with the essence of scallop. Meanwhile, the fumet d'oursin, basically a sea urchin roe sauce, lent a rich creaminess to the dish that nicely accented the mollusk. A very nice presentation of scallop, though a bit boring according to Sunshine.


7: French Turbot
Sweet Pea, Morels, White Wine Mousseline, Pea Shoot Purée. Turbot is an interesting fish. The example here had a firm, flaky texture that was somewhat dry. The fish can be very delicate, but the morels and mousseline gave the turbot a creamy, buttery, rich flavor that was a bit surprising. The use of peas here was a wonderful and necessary contrast to the gravity of the fish.


For our second round of beers, we first had the Chimay Grande Réserve [$8.00], a.k.a. Chimay Blue (there are also red and white varieties). The Chimay is a Belgian strong dark ale, brewed in a Trappist monastery. The Grande Réserve is "prototypical" Chimay, displaying hints of dark fruit and spice, with an undertone of yeast and bitterness. Quite good. Our last beer was the Duvel [$6.00], the flagship beer of Brouwerij Duvel Moortgat in Breendonk, Belgium. Duvel is perhaps the epitome of the Belgian strong pale ale style, showing archetypal notes of sweet citrus, yeast, pepper, and spice. Zesty, light, and lovely.


8: Trio of Berkshire Pork
Meyer Lemon Stuffed Dates, Braised Cabbage, Sauce Aigre Doux. The trio consisted of pork belly, leg, and loin, as pictured above. The belly was what you'd expect from pork belly--sweet, smoky, fatty, and rich as it should be; it was Sunshine's favorite, though it was perhaps a bit blunt for me. I preferred the leg, which had a much more pleasing herbal and spicy flavor to go along with the sweetness from the agrodolce, while the flesh was noticeably less fatty; it was my favorite of the troika. Finally, the loin was sort of a like a cross between the two, tasty but a bit nondescript. I found the date unnecessary, though I enjoyed the braised cabbage, which was reminiscent of sauerkraut.


9: Prime Beef Filet Wellington
Potato Pavé, Swiss Chard, Perigordine Sauce. Interestingly, the last beef Wellington I had was also prepared under the auspices of Chef Citrin (at the 5x5 Chef's Collaborative dinner at Providence). In any case, this version had a layer of braised short rib between the tenderloin and puff pastry surround. The end result was quite pleasing, with the short rib lending a richer flavor to the subtle flavor of the filet. This was further heightened by the heady Périgueux sauce. Sunshine described the taste as "familiar."


Mélisse definitely has one of the more impressive cheese carts in the city, a sight that's becoming rarer and rarer these days.



10: Fromage
We had a selection of nine cheeses (chosen by our server on our request), paired with walnuts, red wine candied pears and kumquats, and nut bread:

• Nevat: A medium-flavored, soft-ripened, pasteurized goat's milk cheese from Catalonia. The name means "snowy" in Catalan and is a reference to the cheese's white mold rind; the rind results in a differential ripening, which means variations in texture within the cheese. Subtly sweet, mild, a bit earthy--nice but not particularly distinctive.
• Selles-sur-Cher: A French goat's milk cheese named after the commune of Selles-sur-Cher, where it was first made in the 19th century. It was one of the stronger goat cheeses, with an ashy, tangy, salty flavor that lingers.
• Sainte Maure: A goat's milk cheese traditionally from Touraine, France. The log-shaped cheese had an interesting, dual-faceted texture (young cheeses are soft, but as the mold develops, the cheese hardens), along with mild, nutty flavor.
• Époisses de Bourgogne: A favorite of the Mélisse staff, Époisses is a soft, unpasteurized cow's milk cheese made in the village of Époisses in the Côte-d'Or. Called the "king of all cheeses" by famed gastronome Brillat-Savarin (whose eponymous cheese is one of my favorites), Époisses has a rather strong, funky odor that belies its creamy, sweet flavor.
• Les Delice de Cremiers: A triple creme cow's milk cheese from Burgundy, France. One of my favorites, this had a luxurious, rich, buttery, soft consistency along with a mild initial tang that got stronger with time.
• Old Amsterdam Gouda: Gouda is a yellow cheese made from pasteurized cow's milk, named after the city of Gouda, Netherlands where it was invented (though the name is not protected). The Old Amsterdam here is a gouda that has been matured for 18 months. It had a hard, brittle, gritty texture with a sharp, nutty flavor.
• Pérail de Brebis: A raw sheep's milk cheese from the Aveyron department of France (in the Midi-Pyrénées region). Our server compared it to softer version of Manchego. I thought it had a mild flavor initially, which then increased in saltiness and intensity with time.
• Queijo de Azeitão: Named after a small town in Setúbal, Portugal, this was a sheep's milk cheese with a semi-soft consistency. Lovely, with a mild, creamy flavor with just a hint of tanginess and herbaceousness.
• Saint Agur Blue: Described as the "ice cream of blue cheese" by our server (due to its butterfat content), the Saint Agur is a blue cheese made from pasteurized cow's milk in the Auvergne region of France. It had a great, moist, smooth texture and a strong, spicy flavor. Its intensity rises as the cheese ages.

For dessert, we were presented with a complementary glass of the 2003 L'Echarderie Quarts de Chaume, a late harvest Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. It was pretty much exactly what I expected, with nice apple and honey flavors balanced by spice and a crisp acidity. Light and easy-drinking.


11: Vanilla Yogurt
Strawberry Sorbet. Yogurt and strawberry--a winning combination. The sweetness of the strawberry is tempered by the mild tanginess of the yogurt. The overall effect was somewhat like eating a strawberry yogurt.


12: Frozen Passion Fruit Parfait
Coconut Sorbet, Lemongrass Tapioca. Very nice; I loved the interplay between the flavors of the passion fruit and sorbet, as well as the interaction between their different textures and temperatures. The use of lemon grass here definitely gave the dessert a Thai-like flavor, reminding me of dessert at Providence.


13: Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate
The presentation here was reminiscent of the themed desserts at Jean Georges. The theme here would obviously be "Chocolate." From top-left, we have: Mascarpone, Coffee (think caffè macchiato), Peanut Butter Crunch, and Soufflé. Overall, the dessert was enjoyable, but really nothing that I hadn't seen before.


Mignardises
Two types of treats were presented at the end of the meal: cookies, which were rather pedestrian, and canelés, which were much more interesting. It was actually my first time having a canelé, basically a small French pastry with a soft custard center covered by a tough, caramelized outer layer. The dessert is typically flavored with vanilla and rum, giving it an intriguing flavor. I believe the phrase "rum-soaked churro" was mentioned during the meal.

I came into Mélisse with pretty high expectations, and much to my surprise, they were met, perhaps even exceeded--it was certainly one of the top meals I've had in Southern California. Sunshine mentioned that Mélisse was one of his favorite restaurants in the city, and I can see why. Urasawa's easily my number one, but I'd place Mélisse no lower than third. It's a solid Michelin two-star establishment, but to gain that one more coveted étoile, Mélisse needs to step it up a notch. I cannot fault the quality of ingredients, or the precision of the preparation. However, what I want to see is a little more innovation, creativity, and risk-taking (especially with regard to dessert). I get a feeling of complacency, of settling into routine. I know Citrin and company are up to the challenge, but how bad do they really want it?

Giang Nan (Monterey Park, CA)

Giang Nan
306 N Garfield Ave #12, Monterey Park, CA 91754
626.573.3421
www.fooddigger.com/RestaurantDetail.aspx?id=10 (FoodDigger, restaurant has no web site)
Wed 02/11/2009, 07:45p-10:30p



At FoodDigger's last event at Shibucho, I got to experience the seemingly unholy pairing of old red Bordeaux and sushi. Though not every wine was a hit, some of the pairings really did work wonders. The goal this time was only slightly less challenging: to pair Shanghainese cuisine with Spanish wines. The location was to be Giang Nan (it means land south of the lower Yangtze river--Jiangnan, which is not the Chinese name of the place), one restaurant of the myriad of Chinese eateries in the San Gabriel Valley, but one that specializes in Shanghainese food. Sugar is actually a relatively common ingredient in Shanghainese cuisine; when combined with soy, the overall effect is a sweet/savory interplay--a calling card of the region's food. It'd be interesting to see how this would stand up to the wine.

Representing FoodDigger were Brian, Eddie, Marshal, Thi, and Will. Bloggers included yours truly, Andrea of TheFoodieTraveler, H.C. of L.A. and O.C. Foodventures, Javier of Teenage Glutster, Josh of Food GPS, Mike of Right Way to Eat, and Ryan of Only Eat What Feeds Your Soul.


Located in the back of a strip mall, Giang Nan's exterior is rather nondescript and easy to miss.


The theme continues inside. The interior is about what you'd expect, as Chinese restaurants aren't exactly known for stunning ambiance. Nevertheless, the surroundings were reasonably clean and comfortable.


The night's wines were lined up on the requisite lazy Susan. Fortunately, the restaurant was able to provide wine glasses, so we weren't relegated to sipping out of tea cups. Said glasses, though, were covered in a thick layer of dust, looking as they hadn't been used since the Clinton administration. We ended up washing them out with tea.


NV Emilio Lustau Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda Lustau Solera Reserva Manzanilla Papirusa
I'm used to having Sherry to close out a meal, so I think this was the first time I've had it as an apéritif. It was light, dry, clean, and lip-puckering, with crisp notes of apple, salt, and alcohol. It was actually quite good with the Smoked Fish and Marinated Pork, as the flavors of sweet and salty seemed to complement and temper each other.


Smoked Fish
Before this dish came out, Brian mentioned that the fish was supposed to taste like it'd been smoked, even though it really wasn't. The taste was sort of an interplay between smoky and sweet, with lots of anise-like flavor backing it up. One of my dining companions even said that it had hints of unagi (Japanese freshwater eel). My enjoyment of this was really hampered by the large amount of bones, as well as the general sogginess of the flesh.


Marinated Jelly Pork Zhen Jiang Style [$4.95]
I was afraid that this was going to be overly fatty, but it actually had a great separation of fat and lean, with a pleasant, firm, texture. Quite good with the included vinegar-ginger sauce, which gave the dish a tartness that really worked with the Lustau.


NV Segura Viudas Cava Brut Reserva Heredad
Cava is basically Spanish Champagne, and comes from the Catalonia region of Spain, Penedès mostly. Indeed, Cava is produced using the méthode champenoise, with permitted grape varietals Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel·lo--the major three--as well as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Subirat. The Reserva Heredad here uses only Macabeo and Parellada. I quite enjoyed the wine, with its medium body, fruity-floral bouquet, and lemony, honeyed palate. Nicely balanced, with a smooth, yeasty, lingering finish.


Jade Celery [$3.95]
I'm usually not a fan of celery, but even I must admit that this wasn't half bad. The celery's crisp texture was very pleasing, with a refreshing snap and subtly sweet and sour flavor to boot. Great, vibrant color as well.


Bean Curd Sheet and Vegetables
I liked the soybeans here, but the flavor was dominated by the tofu. According to Brian, the dish wasn't meant to be eaten alone, but was supposed to serve as a foil to the Seaweed Fried Yellow Fish below.


2006 Don Olegario Albariño Rías Baixas
I didn't expect much from this, but it turned out quite nicely. The Albariño had a fruity nose of stone fruit, which continued onto the palate, balanced by hints of apple and minerals, leading to a long, juicy finish. One of my dining companions compared this to Riesling, and in fact, Albariño has been thought to be an Alsatian Riesling clone.


1996 R. López de Heredia Rioja Crianza Viña Gravonia
The varietal here was Viura, or Macabeo, the same grape used in the Cava above. However, this Gravonia was worlds apart in terms of taste. It had a funky, vegetal nose, but the bouquet belied the soft palate, loaded with minerals and a bit of honey and stone fruit. Very interesting, very unique, and very good with the yellow fish.


Seaweed Fried Yellow Fish
This was probably my favorite dish of the night. Much more than a mere fish 'n' chips, the fish was coated with a light layer of batter, and was cooked to a perfect, pliant, yet firm consistency. The fish had a light saltiness to it that was further accentuated by the small bits of seaweed impregnated into the coating, giving it a slightly briny, vegetal flavor. The included salt and pepper mixture further heightened the dish.


Stir Fried vegetable with Bamboo Shoots
This was advertised as a "special vegetable." I know I've had it before, but I can't put my finger on the name. According to a couple of my readers (see below), it might've been yu choy or bok choy. In any case, it was a simple preparation, good enough, but really nothing special. We were supposed to try this with the Gravonia, though I didn't think that the pairing was anything particularly appealing.


Tea Smoked shrimp [$9.95]
Though advertised as "tea smoked," the tea flavor in this dish was subtle, too subtle. This would've been fine, had the shrimp possessed flavor of their own. Unfortunately, they didn't, and the end result was a very bland presentation of shrimp. The white Rioja did work pretty well here though.


1999 R. López de Heredia Rioja Viña Bosconia
A Tempranillo-based wine, this demonstrated loads of light red berries, tobacco, and earth. Medium body, with a tart, acidic finish. This reminded me a bit of Pinot Noir, and stood up very well to the strong flavor of the tilapia.


West Lake Fish with Vinegar Sauce [$9.95]
West Lake Fish is a popular dish named after a famous body of water in Hangzhou, a city 112 miles southwest of Shanghai. The fish is poached with a sweet vinegar sauce, giving it a mild sweetness to counteract the tartness of the vinegar. Not bad, though the fish was a bit too soft for my tastes.


2001 Bodega R. de Ayala Lete e Hijos Rioja Vina Santurnia Gran Reserva
A classic Tempranillo--light, smoky, with loads of light fruit. A strong, lingering, spicy, somewhat tannic finish. It wasn't outstanding on its own, but was better with the meatballs.


Meatball with Duck Egg Yolk [$3.50 each]
I believe this was a variation on the famous "lion's head" meatball. They were formed of a soft, fatty pork, topped with egg yolk (which we initially mistook for mustard), and garnished with spinach. The meatballs weren't particularly flavorful on their own, so the egg was instrumental in adding a sharp saltiness and even a bit of spice to the dish. My favorite part of the dish, though, was the spinach, which was cooked just about perfectly. The two preceding Riojas worked pretty well here.


Squash with Crab
The "squash" here was actually luffa, yes the same "loofah" used for sponges. The fruit of the luffa vine can be eaten young, as was the case here, or can be left to mature, in order to make sponges. I really wasn't expecting much, but I was pleasantly surprised, as the luffa was tender, slightly sweet, and a good foil to the crab.


Shanghai Style Spare Ribs
Though this wasn't bad, I was expecting more. The ribs had a sweet, succulent tang, which was rather blunt, but still tasty. The texture was a bit chewy, and I could've used a higher meat-to-bone ratio as well. Nevertheless, I enjoyed this with the Santurnia.


1995 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único
This was my second time tasting the '95 Único; the first was at The Bazaar. On that occasion, I wrote that the wine was tight, and less fruit-forward than expected. I'll reiterate those comments here as well, as I found the wine sharp, spicy, tart, and perhaps a bit too oaky. It was simply too young; I had the '96 at Totoraku and found it much more approachable. Passable with the pork knuckle, but we all preferred the Imperial.


2001 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Reserva
This was quite a contrast compared to the Vega-Sicilia. It had a balanced mix of fruit and wood on the nose, leading to light fruit, spice, and chocolate on the palate. Smooth tannins and a slightly hot finish. Very good with the pork pump.


House Special De-Greased and Braised Pork Knuckle [$15.95]
Finally, this was supposed to be the house specialty, the pièce de résistance of the night. I believe it was prepared in a hong shao ("red stewing") style, braised with a soy- and sugar-based sauce. I really enjoyed the inside portions of the pork. The super-rich, super-tender pieces of meat reminded me a bit of the pork confit at Ford's Filling Station's suckling pig dinner. The layer near the skin, however, was far too fatty for me. As was the case with the meatballs, the spinach here was superb.


Shanghai Stir Fry of Shredded Pork, Celery and Squid
I really didn't taste much pork or squid here, but it was nice to have a light, refreshing dish like this as a follow up to the utter decadence of the pork.


Shanghai White Rice Cake with Shredded Pork and Vegetable
Rice cake, or nian gao, is a staple of Shanghainese cuisine. The cakes were cooked to a chewy consistency, not hard, but with a bit of bite. Flavor-wise, there wasn't much there; rather, the dish was dominated by the slight tang of the veggies. Pretty good.


Meatball with Duck Egg Yolk [$3.50 each]
My dining companions liked the meatballs, so we ended up ordering another round.


2002 Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées
Bucking the trend of Spanish wine, we finished with a Bourgogne rouge. I wasn't too impressed here; not much fruit in the nose or the palate, but instead, we got spice and a good amount of tannin. I think this just needs a few more years.


Xiaolongbao
Xiaolongbao are one of the most ubiquitous culinary exports from Shanghai. Basically, they're flour buns filled with a mixture of meat and soup, and steamed. In terms of taste, I liked the flavorful, but not overwhelming nature of the pork, but the buns were a bit lacking in terms of the heady juice, and the skins were a bit tough. They were served here with a vinegar/ginger sauce, which complemented the buns nicely.


Sesame Mochi Balls in Soup
I believe these were basically tangyuan, or glutinous rice flour balls filled with black sesame. I'm used to eating them alone, but here they were accompanied by rice, egg, and Chinese dates. The overall effect was a sweet, floral background for the tangyuan. Better that I thought it'd be.

This was literally the first time I've tried to pair Chinese food with wine, and I must say that the results were encouraging, getting me to think about pairing wine with other "ethnic" cuisines. The food itself wasn't anything to write home about, but the addition of some great wine and great company made the meal special in its own right. Thanks again to FoodDigger!

---

Now, after the last FoodDigger event at Shibucho, Ryan and I weren't quite full, and thus decided to hit up Tommy's afterwards, where I polished off a Mega Combo--a Triple Cheeseburger, Chili Cheese Fries, and a 20oz drink. So how would I top that this time?


We ended up stopping by In-N-Out, and ordered up a couple of 4x4s--that's four beef patties and four slices of cheese, the largest burger that the chain will make (officially at least). To wash them down, we stopped by 7-Eleven for beer. First was the Arrogant Bastard Ale from Stone Brewing Company. Everybody raves about this beer, and while I thought it was good, it wasn't that good. I got a lot of hoppy bitterness, counterbalanced by a subtle malty sweetness and a bit of citrus. We also tried Budweiser's American Ale, which I gather is supposed to be the company's "premium" beer. Bud's other beers are lagers, so having an ale is a bit of a departure. Not a superstar, but much better than the swill Anheuser-Busch normally sells.

Bistro 31 (Santa Monica, CA)

Bistro 31
2900 31st St, Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.314.6057
www.aicala.artinstitutes.edu/bistro31/
Mon 02/09/2009, 07:15p-10:00p



Opened in January 2000, Bistro 31 (named after its location on 31st St) is run by students of The International Culinary School at The Art Institute of California-Los Angeles. The purpose of the restaurant is to give students real world restuarant experience, to better prepare them for future employment in the industry. All students participate in running the Bistro as a working classroom, applying skills acquired throughout their study. This means rotating through both front-of-the-house and back-of-the-house positions, though most students seem to prefer working in the kitchen. My road to Bistro 31 began with an email from Culinary Management student and Ortolan line cook Michael Cherney, who invited me to a complementary meal, the goal of which was to provide the students with one of the most important and vexing situations a restaurant can face: a review.


The ambiance is a bit spartan, but comfortable. I arrived around 15 minutes early, and was promptly seated by Maître d' Alexandre Rehbinder at the best seat in the house, with an unobstructed view of the bustling kitchen.


The night's menu is shown above; click for a larger version. As we can see, the menu is compact (apparently the lunch menu is more expansive) and very reasonably priced. Note the signature of Dominique Fournier, Chef Instructor and alumnus of Michel Richard's acclaimed Citronelle restaurant in Washington DC.


Though it didn't look like much, the house-made bread was lovely, better than the bread at many Michelin-starred establishments in fact! It had a lingering, salty tang to it that was positively intriguing, and which went beautifully with the subtly sweet butter.


Bistro 31 lacks a liquor license, so it's BYOB all the way, an especially attractive proposition given the $0 corkage. We started with a bottle of the Veuve Ambal Blanc de Blancs Brut, a nice vin mousseux from France. It was a simple but tasty wine, with a floral, honeyed nose, leading to plenty of stone fruit and citrus on the palate. Quite sweet for a brut in my opinion, but good.


Lavender Crusted Tuna [$5.99]
Seared tuna is always a safe bet, and this was no exception. The fish's peppery exterior hit me first, followed by the tuna's soft, mild sweetness and zest of the various accoutrements. The combo worked flavor-wise; unfortunately, the dish was marred by tendon that wasn't removed, leading to a tough, chewy texture on certain parts of the fish.


Mussels Marinières [$5.99]
I've found that mussels can be hit-or-miss. Fortunately, this was more on the hit side. I enjoyed the rich, buttery white wine sauce, which lent a delicious flavor to the mollusks, but which still let their natural, briny flavor shine through. If I had one nit, it'd have to be the texture again. Though the mussels' consistency wasn't problematic, they could've been a touch crisper and livelier.


Shrimp Empilées, Avocado Purée and Seafood Bouillon [$6.49]
The "empilées" here refers to the "stacked" presentation of the dish. My favorite of the appetizers, the shrimp's mild saltiness worked well with the creamy tanginess of the avocado purée, which was basically like a guacamole. The puff pastry also added an interesting textural element that tied the dish together.


The menu has a couple of dishes with tableside preparation, which is becoming rarer and rarer these days. Here, we see the Warm Spinach Salad with Balsamic Reduction [$5.99] being flambéed. Quite a show!


For the main courses, we opened a bottle of the 2006 Francis Coppola Black Label Claret. A particularly dark Bordeaux blend, this showed flavors of cassis, cherry, and smoke, with medium tannins and some vegetal notes coming into play later on. Good with the heavier dishes of the night.


Steak au Poivre, Mashed Potatoes and Tomato, Tableside [$12.99]
Perhaps the most classic of steak preparations, steak au poivre ("pepper steak") is a French method that basically requires cooking the meat with a coating of peppercorns. This was Michael's entrée, and he seemed to enjoy it. I was able to sample a small piece of the steak, and founded it competently cooked, medium rare, with a strong peppery taste, perhaps too much so actually.


Coq au Vin, Lardon, Potato, Mushroom [$10.99]
Another very traditional French dish, coq au vin ("rooster in wine") is a stewed dish of chicken with wine, lardons, and mushrooms, along with potatoes and other vegetables in this case. The cooking method resulted in a very flavorful, very tender preparation of chicken, though I didn't try enough of it to make a definitive judgment.


Beef Stroganoff, Coconut Rice Pilaf [$11.99]
Moving away from France, beef stroganoff is a dish of Russian descent--basically sautéed beef served in a sour cream-based sauce. Though contemporary versions often come with mushroom and onion, the beef here was garnished solely with rice. I was able to try a bit of this, and found the beef flavorful, but a bit tough, though nicely tempered by the pilaf.


Braised Salmon with Verjus, Shallot Confit, Poached Cucumber and Pear [$11.99]
Finally, here was my main course. It was cooked to a just about perfect texture--tender, juicy, and flaky, just the way salmon should be. In terms of flavor, the essence of salmon was there but subtle, highlighted by a bit of tang from the verjus. Michael thought that more salt was in order, though I'd lean toward pepper. Meanwhile, the poached cucumber was a great foil to the salmon, but the pear's sweetness threw things off a bit.


For dessert, we had the Corsendonk Agnus, a Tripel-strength Abbey Pale Ale from Brouwerij Corsendonk in Oud-Turnhout, Belgium (though the beer is actually brewed by Brasserie Du Bocq). Typical of the style, it displayed a nose of fruit and honey, with a taste that was sweet and hoppy, leading to a spicy finish. Light, smooth, very nice.


Apple Pudding [$3.99]
We originally wanted to try the Chocolate Cake on the menu, but we were informed that the kitchen had run out. Thus the first dessert was the apple pudding, which was somewhat like a bread pudding in consistency and taste. Not bad, but I wished there was a more apparent apple flavor. Way too subtle.


Baba au Rhum [$3.99]
A rum baba is traditional dessert, consisting of a small cake soaked in rum, served with whipped cream. The rum gave the dish an interesting, slightly bitter finish, which was accentuated by the rich sweetness of the cream. We all preferred this to the apple pudding.


After the meal, I was asked to fill out a comment card, on which I gave mostly high marks. Click for a larger version.


A photo with my hosts, clockwise from lower left: yours truly, Sharon Widjaja (manager), Michael, Max, Dominique, Chef Fournier.

I'm happy to say that Bistro 31 exceeded my expectations. To be sure, the food isn't ground-breaking, but is competently and passionately prepared by a staff that's eager to please. Given that many of the students have never worked in a kitchen before, things begin to look even more impressive. And let's not forget the prices--extraordinarily reasonable given the quality of food--and also the satisfaction that comes with supporting a good cause. If I lived in the area, I imagine I'd be coming back pretty often.

Beachwood BBQ (Seal Beach, CA)

Beachwood BBQ
131 1/2 Main St, Seal Beach, CA 90740
562.493.4500
www.beachwoodbbq.com
Sat 02/07/2009, 07:30p-10:10p



A native of Northern California, Beachwood BBQ's owner Gabriel ("Gabe") Gordon had been exposed to fine dining from a relatively early age, and after working at a number of top Southern California restaurants, Gordon planned to open his own haute cuisine place in Orange County with wife Lena. But after surveying the OC's culinary landscape, Gordon decided that what the county was missing wasn't another fine dining restaurant, but rather a good barbeque place, and thus the concept behind Beachwood BBQ was born.

If there's one type of cuisine that Americans get up in arms about, it's barbeque. The BBQ tradition in the United States is rich, especially in the southeast, where it's not merely a way of cooking meat, but practically a way of life. The types of BBQ practiced throughout the country are vast and varied, but are typically broken down into four dominant styles: Carolina, Kansas City, Memphis, and Texas. Beachwood is influenced primarily by the "dry" Memphis style. Meats here are dry-rubbed and slow-smoked, sans sauce, to preserve their natural flavor.


Located in quaint downtown Seal Beach, not too far from A Slice of New York, Beachwood started out at only half its current size--basically the half of the restaurant under the "Beachwood BBQ" sign--but soon expanded, taking over the space to the left of the restaurant. This lessened wait times, but more importantly, allowed Gordon to install a bar.


And here we see the bar. Perhaps the most interesting facet about Beachwood is its superb selection of beers. Gordon is quite the beer aficionado, and proudly features a rotating selection of 20 or so microbrews; you won't find your Bud, or even your Heiney here! As can be seen in the photo on the right, the day's beers are displayed on small chalkboards; click for a larger version. As regular readers know, I've been very keen on Belgian pale ales as of late. I thus had the following:

• Russian River Damnation [$6.50] - I told Gabe of my penchant for Belgians and asked him to surprise me. He came back with Damnation, from Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa, CA. A great way to kick things off, this was an herbal, spicy beer, crisp at first, but going down smooth, with a bit of hop on the finish.
• Kasteel Tripel [$6.50] - From Brouwerij Van Honsebrouck in Ingelmunster, Belgium. This was my favorite beer of the night, showing a fruity nose of apple and pear, which continues onto the palate. Light, cidery, yeasty, with just a bit of heat on the finish.
• Affligem Blonde [$6.50] - A strong pale ale from Brouwerij De Smedt in Opwijk, Belgium, this was somewhat less complex than the two beers above, with a hoppy bitterness, plenty of tart citrus, and a bit of spice. Finishes light and dry.

In addition to these three beers, I also got to sample my dining companions' selections, including the: Paulaner Hefeweizen [$5.50], Warrior Black IPA [$6.00], Calico Amber Ballast Point [$5.50], Abandon Ship Smoked Lager Ballast Point [$5.50] (reminded me of the Stone Smoked Lager), Koningshoeven Quadrupel [$6.50] (superb), Stone Russian Imperial Stout 2008 Cask [$7.00] (super thick, like espresso!), and Rex IPA Rubicon [$6.00]. Particularly noteworthy was the Paulaner. In addition to being a superb Hefeweizen, I was able to try it mixed with cola, making a so-called "Colaweizen," which apparently is popular in Germany. It was actually quite delicious, with the cola being surprisingly apparent, resulting in a heavier, sweeter, more viscous drink.


Sweet Potatoes Fries [$3.50]
While we were waiting for our table (no reservations are taken), we ordered a basket of sweet potato fries, which I'd had only one other time, at The Counter in Santa Monica. Fortunately, the fries here weren't quite as sweet as The Counter's, and were coated in quite a bit of salt. Not bad, but I'll stick to regular fries next time.


After a very long wait, we were led to our table in the main dining room. The delay wasn't Beachwood's fault, but rather that of the customers before us, who lingered around for an inconsiderably long time after their meal.


Though focused on BBQ, naturally, the menu does provide a decent selection for the non meat eaters out there as well. Click for larger versions.


Fried Green Tomatoes [$5.00]
Whenever I hear the term "fried green tomatoes," I think of the 1991 film starring Kathy Bates, Mary Stuart Masterson, Mary-Louise Parker, and Jessica Tandy--perhaps not the most appetizing visual imagery. But in any case, fried green tomatoes are a traditional southern side dish, and this was actually my first time having them. The tomatoes are coated in cornmeal and fried, resulting in crunchy, peppery exteriors that contrast nicely with their sweet, soft, juicy interiors. Quite good!


Steamers [$12.00]
1lb. of Littleneck Clams sautéed with garlic, shallots, smoked chilies and lemon verbena. Steamed in beer and butter. These were excellent, some of the best clams I've had in fact. They were soft, juicy, but still slightly crisp, soaking up wonderfully the flavors of their rich, tangy, garlicky broth (which I subsequently sopped up with the provided bread).


Baked Mac and Cheese [$8.00]
Bacon, green onion, smoked chilies, and fresh pasta mixed with gruyere beer sauce. I'm quite the fan of mac and cheese, and I really appreciated the use of gruyere and beer here, along with the perfect texture of the macaroni itself. Unfortunately, the dish was too "gritty" due to the toppings, and I found the bacon superfluous. They made this dish fancier than it needed to be.


Although Beachwood proudly proclaims that its BBQ is good enough to stand alone without sauce, four are available, if you insist. They're named simply: Sweet, Spicy, Mustard, and Vinegar.


Baby Back Ribs, Beef Short Rib, Brisket Combo Plate with Potato Salad and Tangy Coleslaw [$19.00]
This was my plate. All meats were dry rubbed and slow smoked with applewood, pecan, and oak. I first tried the short ribs, which were immensely tender and fatty, with an intense smoky sweet flavor. I appreciated the alternating sections of tough, caramelized crispness and soft, juicy tenderness, which actually reminded me of carnitas. Next was the brisket, which was among the most delicate preparations I've had. The meat was dry, lean, and mild in flavor--a bit too mild for me, in fact. Finally, we got to the baby back ribs. I quite liked the texture here, not quite "falling off the bone"--tender but still with a bit of bite, with a nice interplay between fat and lean. I just wished there was more meat on them bones! As for the sides, the tangy coleslaw lived up to its name; it had a lip-puckering dressing that beautifully complemented the crisp veggies. I liked the potato salad even more, which was probably the zestiest, sharpest version I've tasted, with strong onion notes and plenty of tang as well.


Smoked Chicken, Sausage, Salmon Combo Plate with Corn on the Cob and Sweet Potato Fries [$19.00]
I convinced one of my dining companions to order a combo plate as well, so we could share and try a variety of meats. First up was the smoked chicken. It was indeed very juicy, moist, and tender, but most of the BBQ flavor was concentrated in the skin, not the flesh, which was fairly ordinary. I much preferred the sausage, which had a great snap on the casing, a beautiful consistency, and a delicious, spicy flavor. As with the meats above, both the chicken and sausage were dry rubbed and slow smoked with applewood, pecan and oak. The fish, on the other hand, was cold smoked with oak and finished on the grill. The salmon was nicely cooked, producing a soft, juicy, flesh flavored with smoke and wood, along with a delightfully crisp, flavorful skin. The only problem was the onion topping, which was far too sweet, drawing attention away from the natural flavor of the salmon.


Wild Boar Meatloaf with Blueberry Gravy with Baked Beans and Sweet Coleslaw [$16.00]
One of my dining companions order a boar (wild ancestor of the domesticated pig) meatloaf, but unfortunately, I forgot to try it.


Brisket Plate with Hush Puppies and Sweet Potato Fries [$16.00]
Note that all plates come with cornbread.


Salmon Plate with Cream of Corn and Grilled Asparagus [$15.00]
Salmon again. I got to try the corn and asparagus, both of which were quite tasty.


Albacore Plate with Sweet Potato Fries and Texas Caviar [$16.00]
Like the salmon, the albacore was also cold smoked with oak and finished on the grill, though it wasn't nearly as interesting. Cooked rare, the albacore had a dry, firm texture, along with a mildly smoky flavor. It also came with the salmon's sweet onion topping, which again, didn't work for me.

I came out of Beachwood with a positive impression, though admittedly, I don't exactly have much experience with BBQ. And certainly, the fantastic beer, and equally impressive company must have something to do with it as well. Nevertheless, I quite enjoyed most everything I had, and truth be told, barbeque was a refreshing change of pace for me.

---

I guess I really did like the place, as a week later, I went back to Beachwood, and picked up two of their sandwiches to go.


Pulled Pork Sandwich with Hush Puppies [$9.00] & Pulled Chicken Sandwich with Sweet Coleslaw [$9.00]
Both sandwiches were done North Carolina style, dipped in red wine vinegar BBQ sauce and served on a pretzel bun topped with coleslaw. First up was the pulled pork. Now this really had the "crunchy outside-tender inside" consistency of carnitas. Unfortunately, its fabulous texture was marred by its sweet flavor, which overwhelmed the sandwich in my opinion. The chicken was much better in this regard. It had a smoky, savory flavor that was perfectly complemented by the crunchy veggie topping. As for the sides, I wasn't a fan of the hush puppies, which were extremely dry and rather tough--perhaps they'd be better fresh. The sweet coleslaw was better, though definitely more of a traditional preparation compared to the tangy version I had earlier.

Osteria Mozza (Los Angeles, CA)

Osteria Mozza
6602 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.297.0100
www.mozza-la.com
Tue 02/03/2009, 09:10p-12:00a



Mozza is the brainchild of three giants in the restaurant scene. The first, and most famous, is, of course, Mario Batali. Batali is perhaps best known for his television stints: Mario hosted Molto Mario and Ciao America on Food Network, and also battled on Iron Chef America (where he remains the winningest chef). In his spare time, he runs his empire of restaurants (which number around a dozen or so), of which the flagship is Babbo in New York, or perhaps the Michelin two-star Del Posto. Most of Batali's restaurants (Babbo, Del Posto, and Mozza included) have been opened in partnership with Joseph Bastianich, restaurateur, winemaker, former Merrill Lynch bond trader, and son of TV chef Lidia Bastianich. Bastianich owns wines estates Azienda Agricola Bastianich in Friuli-Venezia Giulia and La Mozza in Maremma, Tuscany, and isn't shy about featuring their wines in his restaurants. The final leg in this three-legged stool is Nancy Silverton, Le Cordon Bleu graduate, ex-pastry chef at Spago, co-founder of La Brea Bakery and Campanile, and fixture of the LA culinary scene.

Given the pedigree of its owners, Mozza opened in 2007 with an almost insurmountable amount of hype, which continues in part to this very day. In fact, it's this incessant buzz that has, to a certain extent, kept me away from the place for so long...until now.


The interior is awash in alternating tones of light and dark, grey and black. It's classic, yet contemporary, and doesn't exactly scream "LA." The room is dominated by the mozzarella bar in the center of the space, where fresh mozzarella is prepared daily, and where Silverton herself can often be spotted.


Our table wasn't quite ready when we arrived, so we waited for about five minutes at the other bar in the restaurant--the one serving booze.


The bar menu is shown above, replete with a fascinating selection of cocktails and beers. Click for larger versions.


One of my dining companions ordered a Mojito [$12.00], so I didn't have to; it was a solid example, with sophisticated and subtle flavors of lime, sugar, and mint. Next was the Gordon's Cup [$12.00], made with gin, Japanese cucumbers, lime, and Maldon sea salt; quite delicious, it was very similar to a Cucumber Gimlet, with a distinctive cool cucumber nose and mild, tangy flavor. Finally, I ordered the Il Postino [$12.00], with light rum, lime, and honey Prosecco; it reminded me of a Bellini, with a sweet, honeyed stone fruit nose and palate, a crisp acidity, and a good amount of refreshing fizz.



The menu is large, and is split amongst appetizers (note the large number of mozzarella dishes), first, and second courses; click for larger versions. We each chose the Pasta Tasting Menu [$69.00], along with two supplemental courses (the mozzarella tasting and bistecca). For libations, we ordered one wine pairing [$50.00] and a selection of beers (documented below).


As for the bread, counterclockwise from the lower-right, we have white, multigrain, and wheat; they were solid, but nothing outstanding. I must point out that the bread is served sans butter, which I've heard some people complain about. Keep in mind, however, that this is actually the more traditional way to serve bread in Italian meals.


Amuse Bouche: Ricotta, Black Olive Tapenade
The basil and olive oil hit me initially, then the sourness of the olive tapenade, which then gave way to the mild creaminess of the ricotta. Meanwhile, the toasted crostini base provided some textural contrast to liven things up. A simple, but effective bite to start off the meal.


Supplement: Mozzarella Tasting: burrata, fior di latte & bufala mozzarella [$24.00]
We were all very excited to try out the mozzarella. First up was the Fior di Latte ("flower of milk"), which is mozzarella made from 100% cow's milk from Giulia. It had a simple mild milkiness as well as a bit of sourness, all with a slightly gritty texture. Next was a domestic Burrata ("buttered" in Italian) from an artisanal cheese maker in Los Angeles, served with olive oil. Burrata is basically mozzarella along with cream, so not surprisingly, we found it creamier, but also milder, more subtle, and firmer in consistency. Personally, I thought it could've done without the olive oil, which distracted from the natural flavor of the cheese. Finally up was the Mozzarella di Bufala from Campana, made from water buffalo milk. Such milk is heavier and higher in protein than cow's milk, and resulted in a super soft consistency, along with a tart flavor that reminded me of yogurt. It was my favorite of the trio. All this mozzarella was served with grilled olive oil toast ("fett'unta"), an absolutely lip smacking accompaniment not dissimilar to garlic bread.


1: Tortellini with burro di Luigi Guffanti & Parmigiano
2000 "Valentino Brut Zero," Rocche di Manzone
Reading the description on the menu, we were left to wonder exactly what type of tortellini this was. Turns out Luigi Guffani is a leading cheese maker from Arona, Italy, and the "burro" refers to a butter made by them. This revelation still didn't help with the filling, which one of my dining companions likened to Chinese shaomai stuffing! In fact, that wasn't far from the truth, as it was filled with an amalgam of chicken and pork. In any case, whatever it was, it was very tasty, with the flavor of the meat becoming apparent over a pungent backdrop of Parmesan cheese. The wine here was a sparkler, a 100% Chardonnay Brut from Piedmont. It was done in the méthode champenoise style, and was intensely yeasty, toasty, and heavy almost like an old Krug Champagne (like I had at Charlie Palmer or Sushi Sasabune).


2: Calf's Brain Ravioli salvia e limone
2006 "Vespa Bianco," Bastianich
Interestingly, the only other two times I've had calf's brain were at French Laundry and Per Se--both Thomas Keller establishments. I must say, though, that this was easily the least offensive preparation; it actually reminded me of Chinese style dumplings, or jiaozi! Believe me, you wouldn't even know that this was brain if you weren't told so. Though the brain wasn't distinctive, it was delicious, with the sage and lemon complementing it wonderfully. For wine, we were given one of owner Joe Bastianich's wines. It was a Chardonnay- and Sauvignon Blanc-dominated blend, with a splash of Picolit. It had the roundness, the body, and the weight of Chard, but the other grapes made it more approachable, adding hints of tropical fruit and pear.


At this point, we decided to order up a couple of beers. The first was the Grimbergen Blonde [$7.00], a Belgian abbey pale ale from Brouwerij Alken-Maes in Flanders. I liked this one, and found it rather easy-drinking and light, with plenty of honey, fruit, and bread. Next up was the St. Bernardus Prior 8 [$9.00] from Brouwerij St. Bernardus, also of Flanders. This was a Trappist beer done in the Dubbel style. Though also an abbey ale, this was completely different than the Grimbergen; it was a heavier, more viscous concoction, loaded with smoke, toffee, and chocolate.


3: Gnocchi with ragú Bolognese
2005 Sangiovese di Romagna "Olmatello," La Berta
Bolognese sauce is a meat-based (typically beef and/or pork) sauce originating from Bologna, Italy. Its hearty flavor, along with the zest of Parmesan, accentuated the pasta nicely, and the whole commixture tasted like Chinese niu rou mein beef noodle soup. I found it very fascinating that the first three dishes of the tasting menu reminded me of Chinese food! Overall quite good, though the gnocchi were a bit soft for me. As for the vino, we had a Sangiovese. A simple, approachable wine, its tart, but deep fruity flavors worked beautifully with the rich flavors of the meat sauce.


4: Francobolli di Brasato with passato di pomodoro
2004 Aglianico del Vulture "Titolo," Elena Fucci
"Francobolli" literally means "stamps," and as can be seen in the photo, they were in the same vein as ravioli. Here, they were stuffed with "brasato," a Milanese braised beef mixture. The end result was delicious, with all the rich flavor of braised meat, balanced by an herbally tang and the sweet/sour interplay of the tomato-based sauce. The wine here was an Aglianico from Basilicata, a first for me. It had a nose of grass intermingled with dark fruit, while smoke and wood became apparent on the palate. It was an aggressive wine that was perhaps a touch strong for the dish.


For the next two beers, we first chose an Allagash Curieux [$20.00], brewed by Allagash Brewing Company in Portland, Maine. Aged in Bourbon oak and done in a Tripel style, the beer packed a punch at 11% ABV, but carried its weight nicely, with light, crisp flavors of apple and lychee over a layer of Bourbon and spice. Though my dining companions didn't care for it, I rather enjoyed it. Finally, we had the Abbaye Des Rocs Grand Cru [$9.00], another Belgian, this time a strong dark ale from Hainaut. It was somewhat similar to the St. Bernardus we had earlier, showing distinctive notes of chocolate, toffee, and smoke, along with dark fruit and spice. Not bad!


5: Pici with duck ragú
2005 "Aragone," La Mozza
Though this looks like spaghetti, it was actually pici, basically a fatter version of the omnipresent pasta, originating from Tuscany. It was somewhat denser and firmer than its thinner counterpart and is traditionally eaten with a game-based sauce, so the use of duck ragú here was appropriate, complementing the pici and sharp Pecorino cheese topping nicely. Interestingly, one of my dining companions thought that the duck sauce had a "fishiness" to it, but I didn't find such a flavor distracting here. For this course, we were paired a Sangiovese blend from Maremma, Tuscany, again from Bastianich. It was almost Cabernet-like in character, giving up a dark, jammy nose, which continued onto the palate, along with smoke and tobacco; it stood up well to the heavy nature of the pici.


Supplement: Porcini-Rubbed Rib Eye Bistecca [$58.00]
Done medium-rare, this turned out to be a decent, though not outstanding, steak. It was suitably tender and flavorful, but was a touch too fatty for me; meanwhile, one of my dining companions found the charred exterior bothersome. The steak was served with aged balsamic and olive oil dipping sauces, both of which proved unnecessary. The most interesting part of this was actually the potatoes, which were cooked to a crunchy, almost candied exterior, but still hiding a soft, sweet, creamy interior. I'll leave my steaks to CUT next time.


6: Cannoli di Key Lime Gelato
2007 Brachetto/Moscato "Bigarò," Elio Perrone
Cannolis ("little tubes") are perhaps the most popular Italian dessert item, originating from Sicily. I found this version too tart, too acidic, with the coldness of the key lime gelato far too jarring a contrast. The caramel went some way in tempering this excess, but overall the dessert didn't quite work with me. The wine here was supposed to be the Bisarò, but we were given the Vin Santo (meant for the next course) instead. The wine was heavy on the toffee, but turned rather bitter when consumed with the cannoli. Not a good pairing.


7: Rosemary Olive Oil Cakes with olive oil gelato
2004 Vin Santo, Badia di Morrona
I loved the consistency of the olive oil cakes, with their hard exteriors yielding to soft, fluffy interiors (almost like a madeleine). I wasn't as keen on their flavor, however--they were lemony, herbal, and heavy, with a bitter finish. The olive oil gelato didn't help much either; I would've liked a lighter gelato, to balance the gravity of the cakes. The hardened piece of sugar was infused with rosemary, which also contributed to the rather overwhelming nature of the dessert. I was not a fan of this. The Vin Santo worked better here, taking on an almost Sherry-like nature, counteracting the strength of the dessert. Meanwhile, we were also given a glass of the Brachetto/Moscato sparkling rosé blend meant for the previous course. It was light, spicy, gingery, and almost tasted like Squirt! It would've been much better with the cannoli.


Instead of mignardises, we were instead given a large loaf of bread from Silverton's La Brea Bakery, replete with instructions on how to make fett'unta ("bread soaked"), the delectable "garlic bread" we had with the mozzarella tasting.

All in all, this was a solid meal. I enjoyed all the pasta dishes I tasted, as well as the mozzarella. In fact, I could see coming back just for the cheese. On the other hand, the steak was only passable, and the desserts really didn't work at all. It was skillful, tasty (for the most part) cuisine, but I really didn't see anything particularly creative or unique, nothing that screamed "hey, this is a Michelin-starred restaurant." Next time, I think I'll need to order, à la carte, some of the more interesting items on the menu, before I can make a definitive judgment about Mozza. For now, I'll just say that the restaurant serves up competent, high-quality Italian fare...but not that much else.