Urasawa (Beverly Hills, CA) [4]

Urasawa
218 N Rodeo Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.247.8939
www.fooddigger.com/RestaurantDetail.aspx?id=11155 (FoodDigger, restaurant has no web site)
Sat 03/28/2009, 06:10p-12:10a



This was actually my fourth visit to Urasawa. For my previous visits, see October 2008, May 2008, and November 2006. Joining me this time were Aaron of Food Destination (the organizer of the dinner), Brian of FoodDigger, Danny of Kung Food Panda, Mike of Right Way to Eat, and Will of FoodDigger, among others.

At Urasawa, you're pretty much a "regular" if you come more than once a year, so I guess that makes me one. I found out that I'm somewhat well-known around the place, as Yoshie-san (Hiro-san's sister and a waitress at the restaurant) exclaimed "Kevin-san" upon seeing me (she didn't know I was coming, as Aaron made the reservation). They're also quite aware of kevinEats.com, and even mentioned that a week earlier, a customer came in as a result of viewing this site!


Above we see the fish case at the beginning of the night. We see various cuts of tuna in front, with snapper, mackerel, and various shellfish in the back. In hindsight, I should've gotten an "after" shot of the case; it was nearly cleaned out at the end of the night.



The beverage menu is shown above; click for larger versions. Especially worth noting is the sake list, which has grown considerably since my first visit. New sakes this time included the Hiroki from Fukushima, the Gin from Gifu, the Genroku from Ibaragi, the Tokugetsu from Niigata, the Isojiman from Shizuoka, and the highly sought after Juyondai from Yamagata. Gone were the Kunigiku and the Fukukomachi (which I had last time). We even got to find out what the "special sake" was all about (more on that later). One area that I find lacking is the beer selection, which only has the three major Japanese breweries represented: Asahi, Kirin, and Sapporo. I'd really love to see some more interesting beers such as Echigo, Hitachino, Orion, Otaru, or even Yebisu (Sapporo's premium brand).


1. Toro-Senmaizuke Maki - This dish consisted of ankimo (monkfish liver), shiso, and scallion wrapped in seared toro and senmai-zuke (salt-pickled shogoin kabu turnip from Kyoto), topped with caviar, all in a light citrus ponzu sauce. The initial taste was sweet on the attack (a combination of the senmai-zuke and the sauce), which then gave way to the mintiness of the shiso mixed with the creaminess of the ankimo on the midpalate, finally finishing with a slight fishiness. The ankimo really did a lot to temper out the tanginess of the other ingredients, adding weight and depth to the dish. Amazingly, the caviar took a back seat here, with its signature brininess countered by the dish's other elements. A very cohesive, balanced course.


We brought plenty of booze of our own, but decided to kick things off drink-wise with a sake, specifically the Harushika "Shiboribana" Junmai-Ginjo Namazake [$80], from Nara Prefecture. Namazake is, of course, unpasteurized sake and thus requires refrigeration (FYI: pasteurization is a process of heating the sake to around 150°F, meant to reduce the number of pathogens present and also to stabilize certain enzymes). Namazake generally has a younger, brisker, more in-your-face taste compared to other varieties. The example here was notable sweet, viscous, bold, brash, with a hot finish. Quite nice!


2. Goma Dofu - Despite the name, goma tofu, or sesame tofu, isn't actually tofu. Instead, it's an amalgam made from water, sesame paste, and kudzu/kuzu powder (from the root of the kudzu vine). Here, the Kyoto-style tofu was stuffed with uni, served with nanohana (rapeseed stems, a type of Spring vegetable), and topped with wasabi and gold foil. The goma dofu was denser and creamier than standard tofu, and had a definite sesame finish to it. We were told to spread out the wasabi--good advice, as its tang served as a fitting contrast to the delicate tofu. The nanohana, meanwhile, was like a cross between broccoli and kale, and added a lovely crisp texture contrast to the dish, as well as a subtle bitterness.


3. Hotaru Ika - Also known as the firefly squid or the sparkling enope squid, hotaruika are a regional specialty of Toyama Prefecture. The squid are small, about three inches in length at maturity, and are bioluminescent. We were instructed to place the squid in our mouths, drink some sake, and chew the resulting mishmash. The hotaruika's sharp, briny, gingery flavor was deftly countered by the relative sweetness of the sake. I also had this on my second visit.


Will brought a magnum of the 1979 Lanson Champagne Brut (50/50 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir) for us all to enjoy. And enjoy we did! Despite the wine's age, it still had a great apple nose and subtle hints of fruit on the palate, backed by an undertone of toast and yeast. The Lanson also had a lovely, round, creamy texture and was surprisingly delicious while being fully mature. I actually likened it to the fantastic 1978 Dom Perignon we had at Shibucho. As seen in the video above, Hiro-san seemed to enjoy it too!



4. Sashimi - The sashimi course, served in a hard-carved block of ice, is one of the constants in the Urasawa experience; see the video above for a clip of Hiro-san and Ken-san putting together the dish. The trio of fish consisted of toro from Spain, tai from Kyushu, and kanpachi from Toyama. The wasabi from was Shizuoka (famous for its wasabi), the shoyu from Wakayama (the "birthplace" of soy sauce), the carrot from Kyoto, and the orchid from Los Angeles! I didn't inquire about the origins of the red cabbage, white daikon, green daikon, cucumber flower, or seaweed. The toro was immensely fatty and melt-in-your-mouth, with the fish oozing oil upon mastication; but it wasn't heavy--in fact, the flavor was very mild. Eating the fish with the soy and wasabi really made the toro work, with the two elements countering the unctuousness of the fish. I had the snapper next; it had an almost creamy texture, and a very mild, clean flavor. The tai really needed the wasabi to bring out its best features. Finally, the kanpachi had a fantastic texture, tender with a bit of bite, and its flavor was marked by a very subtle sweetness, one that was drawn out when eating it with its accompaniments.


5. Chawanmushi - Though this was referred to as chawanmushi (basically a steamed egg custard), its transparent body was unlike that any other chawanmushi I've seen, with a consistency more akin to gelatin than egg. The dish contained a bevy of ingredients, including: yuba (tofu skin), mitsuba (a type of vegetable), hairy crab, squash, uni, snapper, shrimp, ginger, ginko, and shiitake, all topped with a touch of gold foil. With so many disparate ingredients, each bite was different, each bite a pleasant surprise. However, all bites were backed by an overarching light smokiness, the tang of ginger, and the subtle bitterness of the mitsuba. I don't hesitate in saying that this was probably the best chawanmushi I've ever had. In the photo above, we can see Hiro-san mixing up Aaron's!


In this video, we see Ken-san prepping wasabi root with his shark skin oroshigane grater.


6. Spring Vegetable Tempura - Your standard tempura ingredients won't cut it at Urasawa; no, I was able to try three that I'd never tasted before, all seasonal and best in the spring time. First up was taranome (young shoots of the aralia elata/Japanese angelica/tara tree), which had just come into season. It was prepared with an uni sauce and had a meaty texture, with a slightly bitter flavor. Next was fukinoto, the buds of the fuki/giant butterbur/coltsfoot/bog rhubarb. It was done with Kyoto miso, giving the tempura just a hint of sweetness, and had a creamy, pasty texture that was fascinating. Last but not least was a tempura of bamboo sandwiched with shrimp paste. I loved the texture contrast here (the crispness of the bamboo was awesome), as well as the subtle interplay between the flavors of the bamboo and the shrimp. As with most tempura, the examples here were served with tentsuyu dipping sauce (made from shoyu, mirin, and dashi) and grated daikon. Humorously, Ken-san nearly jumped across the counter when he saw me eating the tempura sans sauce! I had to assure him I just wanted to try a small bite without the tentsuyu, just to see how it was.


For our next drink, we opened up a bottle of daiginjo-class sake Brian had purchased in Japan, one that had won a gold medal in the 2007 National Sake Competition in Japan. It was called Nihonbashi, or "Japanese bridge," and was produced by Yokota Brewery in Saitama Prefecture, under the watch of toji, or head brewer, Kiyoaki Takahashi, a member of the influential Nanbu toji group from Iwate Prefecture. Having someone from this group is a mark of honor, and the brewer's name will often be listed on labels of high-end sake, as it was here. It any case, it was smooth, subtle, delicate, and delicious. Hiro-san seemed to really enjoy this one as well; in the video, we hear him exclaiming "So good!" upon tasting it.


7. Kani Miso Korayaki - This consisted of Hokkaido kegani (horsehair crab or hairy crab) meat and its kani miso (internal organs), topped with uni and mitsuba, all cooked in the crab's shell over a hibachi. The dish's aroma was intoxicating, and the flavor was simply the most intensely "crabby" I'd ever experienced, really imbuing me with the pure essence of crab, punctuated by the soft creaminess of the uni and the bitterness of mitsuba. This was my favorite course of this entire meal and arguably the best crab dish I've ever tasted.


8. Saga Beef - This was Wagyu beef from Saga Prefecture on Kyushu island, cooked for two days in sake and shoyu, and served with daikon, scallion, and snow peas. The result of this extended cooking session was an incredibly soft and tender texture. I literally was able to eat this without chewing, instead using my tongue to mash the beef against the roof of my mouth! Flavor-wise, this had a distinct sweetness to it, which was expertly offset by the use of the scallion and snow peas; the veggies were also key in providing some textural contrast to the dish. I actually had this same course on my third visit.


In these videos, we see Hiro-san and Ken-san preparing live shrimp (botan ebi I believe) for the shabu shabu course to follow.




9. Shabu Shabu - The shabu shabu course is always one of the most highly anticipated courses at Urasawa. This time, we had amaebi, Saga beef, and foie gras. The sweet shrimp and foie were the first to go into the pot. The shrimp was cooked quickly, resulting in a crisp, snappy texture, and when dipped in the ponzu sauce, had a great sweet-salty interplay. The beef went in next, and after some light cooking, we ate it with the kombu kelp--it turned out remarkably tender, and really soaked up the sweetness of the ponzu. Finally, it was time for the foie gras, which requires the longest cooking time. The result was fantastic, as expected--rich, decadent, subtle yet profound. In fact, Aaron mentioned that it was better than any seared preparation he's had. Note the new hibachi with its metal bowl; in all my previous visits, we'd made use of one with a paper bowl. When I inquired, I was told that the paper version would be brought out when summer draws near.


10. Shabu Shabu Broth - The shabu shabu broth is always a treat. An interesting anecdote: early in the night, we saw Hiro-san tasting some sort of liquid multiple times. When we inquired, it turns out he was taste testing the broth, which he adjusts to account for the body size of the diner. He said that we were all pretty "skinny" so I guess no major adjustments needed to be made! In any case, the base of the broth is dashi and kombu, but the key is that the soup absorbs the multitude of flavors of the ingredients that are cooked in it. Its flavor was sharp and intense, yet not overpowering, saturated with the heady, hearty essence of the foie gras.


In the video above, we see Hiro-san unwrapping and presenting a very special sake to us: Ichigin. Its quality is apparent just by looking at the packaging--I don't think I've ever seen sake come in its own wooden box. Apparently, this sake is incredibly difficult to acquire in the States; the few bottles Hiro-san has were given to him by his mother Yoko when she visited from Japan. This is the "special sake" mentioned on the menu--now you know!


I thought that was the end of it, but unbeknownst to me, Brian and Will had secretly purchased the bottle, for a staggering $350 (thanks guys!). Eikun "Ichigin" is a junmai-daiginjo class sake brewed by Saito Shuzo in Kyoto Prefecture, one that's won gold medals at Japan's National Sake Competition for 11 consecutive years. It's made from the famous yamada nishiki rice (polished to a seimai-buai of only 35%) and shiragiku-sui spring water. The result was marvelous--arguably the best sake I've tasted. It had a delicate fruitiness as expected from a daiginjo, but the flavor of rice was present as well. The aroma was light, floral, and juicy, and this continued onto the attack, imbued with a subtle sweetness. After this initial impression, things got more complex, with the drier side of the sake coming into play, showing off the characteristics of its rice, alcohol, and water. Faultless.


When the gari comes out, you know that the gauntlet of sushi is about to begin. The ginger this time seemed sweeter and softer than in visits past.


11. Toro / Tuna Belly - Unlike pretty much any other sushi chef, Hiro-san likes to start out with toro. I'm not complaining, as his toro is always decadently fatty, unctuous, and rich, with the wasabi adding a touch of heat to accent the fish. This is, quite simply, the best toro I've had in the States (the #1 spot belongs to Kyubey in Tokyo). In the video, we can see the artistry involved in creating a piece of toro nigiri.


12. Seared Kama Toro / Tuna Collar - Kama toro is a cut of tuna from the fish's collar area, of comparable fattiness to toro (from the belly), but much rarer. It's something that I've only had at Urasawa. The kama toro had a richer taste and fattier complexion than standard toro, and its flavor was punctuated by a light smokiness imparted by the searing. Excellent.


13. Kanpachi / Amberjack - Kanpachi is related to the common yellowtail, and as a result, it's somewhat similar in flavor, though sweeter, less oily, and more tender. Delicate and refined, kanpachi isn't terribly distinctive or in-your-face, though it certainly is delicious.


California Chardonnay isn't something I normally pair with sushi, so I was curious about how this 2006 Aubert Chardonnay Lauren Vineyard from my personal collection would turn out. The nose was marked by juicy citrus, apple, and stone fruit notes, which continued onto the palate, where those flavors were joined by light tinges of minerals and wood, finishing long with refreshing crisp acidity and absolutely no heat to give away its 15.8% weight. I usually don't care for Chards, especially California ones, but this was superb--probably the best Cal Chard I've ever had.


14. Aji / Spanish Mackerel - Aji has become one of my favorite sushi fish, and this reminded me why. Mackerel can be overpowering at times, but that wasn't an issue here. It had a subtle fishiness to it, which was countered and complemented by the wasabi. Great snappy texture on this one too.


15. Tai / Snapper - From Kyushu. A perfect piece of tai, the fish had a great snap to it and a mild flavor that was heightened by the use of yuzu zest. In the video above, we see Hiro-san preparing two pieces of tai nigiri.


16. Hon Maguro / Bluefin Tuna - The quintessential expression of tuna. Maguro rarely stands out, but this is about as good as it gets. The tuna's flavor was straightforward and clean, well-accented by the wasabi.


The second bottle I brought was the 2000 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut, which I also had on my second visit. As expected, the wine showed typical citrus, honey, and floral notes, along with a nice minerality and a touch more toast than I'd expected. The video shows Hiro-san clinking glasses with the entire party. Cristal: always a good decision.


17. Shima Aji / Striped Jack - This was actually my favorite fish on my second visit, and though it didn't reach quite the same heights this time, it was still lovely, with a fresh, light flavor highlighted by a wasabi finish. The most distinctive thing about the shima aji wasn't its flavor, but its great crunchy texture.


18. Shiitake - Shiitake has shown up on every Urasawa visit so far, and yet, I've not had it at any other restaurant. The mushroom had a strong, smoky, earthy flavor (reminding me of a Chinese-style preparation) that stood in stark contrast to the vinegared rice and spicy wasabi.


19. Shiro Ebi / White Shrimp - Tiny shrimp from Toyama Prefecture, where they're a regional specialty. Consisting of over a dozen shrimp, the nigiri broke apart instantly upon mastication, spreading the shrimps' sweet creaminess everywhere. Gina really liked this one, though I must say that a large, single piece of shrimp is my preference.


20. Seki Saba / Japanese Mackerel - As with its cousin seki aji, seki saba is considered the crème de la crème when it comes to mackerel. Seki saba is caught in the Bungo Channel (a strait that separates Kyushu from Shikoku) off the coast of Oita Prefecture. Now normally, seki mackerel has a very fine, delicate flavor that I find simply fantastic. Unfortunately, this didn't live up to my expectations, which I think was my fault, as I let the fish sit too long. Typically, I'll eat the sushi within seconds of it being served to me, but in this case, I happened to get distracted by a side conversation and let the fish sit for over a minute. The result was a taste that was duller, blunter, less refined that it should've been, with a texture that was drier and tougher. Hiro-san has a 10-second rule for a reason; stick to it! I know I will next time. See the video for a clip of Hiro-san shaping a piece of seki saba for Will.


Our cups were empty yet again, so we purchased a bottle of the Kimura Junmai-Daiginjo Sake [$110] from Akita Prefecture. Light, dry, and smooth, it was a lovely sake, but one that paled in comparison to the previous two that we had.


21. Awabi / Abalone - Often times, abalone can be too tough, but that wasn't the case here. The mollusk, shipped from Japan, had just the right amount of snap to it, and its briny flavor was set off nicely by the application of yuzu zest. In the video above, we see Hiro-san cutting slices of abalone; note how he tenderizes the abalone by scoring it with his knife.


22. Mirugai / Geoduck - Also known as the king clam or elephant trunk clam, the mirugai had a definite crunch to it, yet was yielding to the bite as well. The flavor was sweeter than that of the abalone, and was nicely contrasted by the use of wasabi.


23. Aji No Tataki / Chopped Spanish Mackerel - Another type of nigiri exclusive to Urasawa, this consisted of diced aji mixed with shiso, ginger, Kyoto miso, and scallions. Rather than being fishy, the nigiri had a light sweetness from the miso, which was countered by the sharp tang of shiso, ginger, and scallion. Very nice.


24. Gyusashi / Beef - The first thing that hit me here was the zesty flavor of the grated yuzu skin; this then gave the way to the sweet flavor of the lightly cooked, slightly chewy meat, after which the wasabi came to the fore. Always a crowd pleaser! See the video for a clip of Hiro-san cutting and tenderizing the meat.


25. Negi-Toro Maki - The only rolled sushi one typically get at Urasawa is the negi-toro maki, made of toro, negi (leek), and takuan (pickled daikon). The bitter leek was a wonderful complement to the heavy toro, and the daikon pickles gave the roll a slightly sour flavor, as well as a refreshing crunch. In the video above, we see the process of constructing this roll.


Our final bottle of the night was the 2005 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre, brought by Brian. I'm usually not too keen on white Burgundy, but this was superb. The wine had a refreshing crispness and dryness, backed by notes of minerals, apple, vanilla, and stone fruit. Wonderfully acidic, the finish was long, sweet, and gravelly, with a bit of heat as well.


26. Anago / Sea Eel - I've had anago on all three of my Urasawa trips, which I believe has helped convert me from unagi. You won't find unagi at Urasawa (at least not in nigiri form), as freshwater eel is traditionally not used as a sushi ingredient, due to its fattier, heavier consistency. This was the strongest anago amongst all my visits; the eel was lean and light in body, yet flavorful, and was accented by yuzu and a dollop of sweet sauce. The video above shows Hiro-san preparing pieces of nigiri using the grilled eel.


27. Tamago / Egg Omelet - Tamago always signals the end of the sushi at Urasawa. Here, it's always made in-house, in a style that's completely different than what you'd see elsewhere. You'll find that the tamago is light, spongy, fluffy, and cake-like, with a flavor that's indeed eggy, but also quite sweet. In the photo above, we can see the makiyakinabe pan that the tamago is prepared in.


28. Papaya and Yamamomo - When I saw this, I thought that it was just a piece of sliced papaya. I was wrong fortunately; instead, what we had was a grapefruit gelée that had somehow been melded on a slice of papaya. The effect was that the sour essence of grapefruit permeated the milder flavor of the papaya, creating a nice balance. The other component here was yamamomo, a.k.a. mountain peach or bayberry. It's flavor was interesting--tart but almost savory.


29. Goma Pudding - This was a sesame pudding, topped with a layer of red bean paste, sprinkled with chestnuts, sesame seeds, and topped with gold foil. Very nice; this had a great base of sesame flavor, accented by the sweetness of red bean, while the chestnuts added a bit of nuttiness as well as a pleasing crunch to the whole amalgam.


30. Matcha - With dessert came a cup of matcha, a type of powdered green tea often used in Japanese tea ceremonies. It had a strong, bitter flavor that balanced the sweetness of the desserts, as well as a thick, grainy texture.


31. Hojicha - A roasted green tea, hojicha signals the close of a meal at Urasawa. I'm usually not a tea drinker, but I always make room for a few cups of this (you get free refills).


This video was my favorite from the entire meal. In it, Hiro-san demonstrates the sharpness of his hamo honegiri knife. Hamo is a type of eel (I had it on my third visit), one that has bones embedded into its flesh in such a way that removal is not viable. Instead, one uses a hamo honegiri to slice the bones into ultrafine pieces so that the eel is edible. In this day and age, I'm glad that there's still room for extravagances like this: a $2,000 knife that's only used for one very specialized purpose.


I believe the bill must have set a group record, though the per person record remains Joël Robuchon. Note that corkage was $50 per bottle of wine ($100 for the magnum), but $70 per bottle of sake. I still can't believe we put away $160 worth of water!


Denny, Gina, Kevin, Brian, Hiro-san, Danny, Jan, Aaron, Yoko, Will, Mike.

Over the course of dinner, Hiro-san asked me if I'd been to a few restaurants, such as French Laundry, Joël Robuchon, and even The Bazaar. Apparently, José Andrés had called Urasawa the best restaurant in Los Angeles; humorously, he also mentioned that Yoshie-san went to dinner at The Bazaar once, and thought that many of the dishes "tasted strange" (e.g. a dish with toro and apple)! I asked him what restaurants he liked. Names mentioned include Otafuku Noodle House in Gardena for soba and Oumi Sasaya in Lomita for udon. He also likes K-Zo in Culver City, though owner Keizo Ishiba is a friend of his. Hiro-san's favorite cuisine is Japanese, naturally, but behind that is Chinese, which he eats at least twice a week (he likes Sea Harbour in Rosemead and King Hua in Alhambra if I recall). His father actually ran a Chinese restaurant back in Tokyo, so Hiro-san grew up around good food. Though originally from Tokyo, he moved to Kyoto to learn the art of traditional kaiseki cuisine, which is evident in the elaborate courses that precede the sushi. Interestingly, while training in Kyoto, he worked alongside Kenji Kaji, the chef/owner behind Kaji, a restaurant I visited in Kyoto last year.

During our meal, I asked Hiro-san how business was holding up, given the recession and all. Interestingly, he noted that business has not, in fact, slowed. He did mention though that he talked to his old teacher Masa Takayama, Corey Lee, and Michael Cimarusti, and that all three had stated that business had slowed at Masa, Per Se, and Providence, respectively, as a result of the economic slowdown. The fact that Urasawa hasn't experienced declining business, I believe, is a testament to the quality and uniqueness of the restaurant. There's always room for the best right?

R23 (Los Angeles, CA)

R23
923 E 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.687.7178
www.r23.com
Wed 03/25/2009, 07:00p-10:00p



For those unfamiliar with the site, Meetup.com is an online social networking site meant to facilitate offline group meetings. I'd been vaguely familiar with it for some time, but only became a member recently after a discussion with Sunshine Megatron (whom I dined with at Mélisse). As expected, I ended up joining a few of the foodie groups, including one called Pure Sushi. A relatively new group, it focuses, unsurprisingly, on sushi. The group name is somewhat of a misnomer however, as it's not sushi for purists, but rather, encompasses a wider swath, including, unfortunately, those ridiculous Philly-geisha-crouching tiger-hidden dragon-doggy style-samurai-happy ending-sudoku-Marilyn Monrolls (you get my point).

In any case, the group's first meeting location, R23, sounded promising. Opened in 1991, R23 has been somewhat of a fixture in the LA sushi scene, never being truly high-end, but consistently solid--I'd always been curious about the place. Joining me were Yelper Jane, group founder Patrick, and Ryan of Only Eat What Feeds Your Soul. One other Meetup member, Irina, cancelled at the last moment.



Perhaps the thing that R23's most known for is its "ghetto" location. The restaurant sits in the Arts (formerly Warehouse) District on the east side of Downtown Los Angeles (not far from Little Tokyo). Though commonly believe to stand for "Restaurant 23," R23's name actually originates from its position adjacent to railroad tracks (as can be seen in the photos), between 2nd and 3rd streets. While not a particularly dangerous neighborhood itself, it is less than a mile from the real "ghetto," a.k.a. Skid Row, home to one of the largest homeless populations in the country.


R23's isn't situated next to the street, so follow the tracks down this alley to the restaurant's front door. Note the graffiti (or is it art?) adorning the walls.


Decor is industrial-chic, replete with exposed brick, stark white walls, modern art (the handiwork of a former employee), and those oh-so-famous Frank Gehry-designed cardboard chairs. In addition, R23's newest owners (April 2007) purchased the adjacent space next door and converted it into a private dining room.


If you look toward the sushi bar, you'll see what appear to be black and white pieces of artwork on the wall. In fact, these are actually plates, used to carry large orders of sushi, as can be seen above. We also see our itamae, who hails from Himeji, a city in Hyogo Prefecture. He wasn't particularly engaging, but was nice enough.


R23 is arguably known more for its cooked food than its sushi, and though there were a number of enticing items on the menu, we decided to focus more on the sushi. The sushi menu lists all your typical cuts, as well as some more exotic varieties of fish (e.g. sayori, engawa); I was glad to see that they didn't have any of the crazy rolls I talked about earlier. Click for larger versions.


As far as the beverages go, I would've liked a more comprehensive sake selection. The white-focused wine list, meanwhile, is surprisingly large for a Japanese restaurant. Click for larger versions.


While we were waiting for Patrick to show up, we ordered some beers to whet our palates.

• Jane ordered a Kirin Light [$4.50], which wasn't bad, but wasn't good either. Not dramatically different to me than regular Kirin, it was rather flavorless, and extraordinarily light, albeit crisp and refreshing.
• The Asahi Select [$5.50] was Ryan's pick. We're used to seeing Asahi being offered, but this "Select" version was news to us. It was definitely darker in tone than Asahi Dry, as well as more flavorful and more complex. The maltiness was fairly apparent, giving the beer a pleasing sweetness, layered over some spiciness and some subtle hop bitterness. Pretty good.
• I went for the Koshihikari Echigo [$8.50], which I hadn't tried before. Located in Niigata, Echigo is considered somewhat of a "microbrew" and was a nice change from the "big 3" Japanese beers. Koshihikari is a popular variety of Japanese rice, and this rice lager had a prominent ricey aroma to it. This continued onto the palate, where it was joined by citrus, spice, and floral notes. My favorite of the trio.

Spicy Tuna Roll [$6.00]
Jane was getting hungry at this point, so she ended up ordering a simple spicy tuna roll to quell her grumbling stomach. Jane was not a fan, nor was I. The tuna itself was good enough, but nori and rice got in its way. Overall, quite blunt and unrefined.


Once we dispensed with the beers, we ordered up a large Harushika ("spring deer") Junmai sake [$35]. It actually turned out better than I expected, with pleasing dry citrus, spice, and grass flavors along with just a bit of heat. Clean, crisp, smooth, and easy-drinking.


Maguro / Bigeye Tuna [$6.00]
The ruby red color of the tuna was rather beautiful; the taste, though, wasn't quite as vibrant. It certainly wasn't bad however--a clean, mild flavor backed up by a nice wasabi kick. The texture of the tuna was more interesting, with a a thick, dry, mouth-filling, almost chewy consistency.


Hirame / Halibut [$6.00]
Halibut is usually a pretty simple, straightforward fish, so the use of ponzu sauce did spice things up a bit, as did the tangy scallion. Pretty good.


Sake / Salmon [$6.00]
Salmon is typically fairly ho-hum, but this was actually one of the surprises of the night. The fish was uncharacteristically meaty and chewy, requiring quite a bit of mastication. The flavor, meanwhile, was far stronger that I expected, with a distinct oiliness not usually found in salmon.


Tai / Red Snapper [$8.00]
We were instructed to eat this one with no soy (Sushi Zo style), as the fish had already been doused with yuzu and sea salt. The pairings worked, with the yuzu providing a great sourness that really brought out the flavor of the fish, while the salt gave the sushi a long, lingering finish. Great snappy texture on this one too.


Aji / Spanish Mackerel [$8.00]
The ginger and scallion provided a tart flavor component that really balanced out the natural intensity of the mackerel; actually they may have been too effective, as I would've preferred more fishiness. The texture of the aji was also quite nice--oily, creamy, buttery.


Mirugai / Jumbo Clam [$10.00]
Geoduck often has a consistency that's too hard, too crunchy, but the example here was actually quite nice in that regard--meaty and snappy, yet yielding. Flavor-wise, I noted a mild brininess that was deftly set off by the nori, leading to a pleasant wasabi-tinged finish.


Sayori / Needlefish [$8.00]
Now needlefish is a fairly uncommon sushi ingredient here in the States; I've had it only at Go's Mart, Sushi Zo, and Urasawa. This wasn't a particularly distinctive version, though I did like contrast provided by the ginger--nicely balanced. I appreciated the attempt at artistry, the twisting of the fish into a particular shape, though it didn't match the beauty of the sayori on my first Urasawa trip.


Hotate / Scallop [$4.00]
The scallops were served far too cold here. This coldness jarred my taste buds, and really eliminated whatever little flavor the scallops had; instead, the nori wrapper really came to the foreground taste-wise. Perhaps we should've sprung for the pricier "whole scallop," at double the price.


We thought about getting another serving of sake, but decided on some wine instead. The wine we chose was the 2007 (the menu mistakenly lists it as the 2006) Leth Steinagrund Grüner Veltliner from Austria [$38]; this was my first time pairing a Grüner with sushi, but it turned out surprisingly well. The wine really demonstrated what's great about the varietal, with a medium weight, crisp body, and tasty notes of apple and stone fruit, laced over a backdrop of mineral and spice. I could easily drink and enjoy this by itself, but it's an easy complement to food.


Ikura / Salmon Egg [$8.00]
Really good ikura has a certain distinctive "pop" to it, a sharp burst of brininess that explodes in the mouth; this did not. Jane noted that the roe came out of a not-too-fresh looking plastic canister, while Ryan complained that it wasn't salty enough.


Uni / Sea Urchin [$10.00]
The uni here had a nice looking "cat's tongue" texture--usually a good sign. The flavor confirmed this, with the roe having a creamy body, along with a mild sweet-briny interplay, all balanced by the smokiness of its nori wrapper. Surprisingly good.


Fresh Kumamoto Oysters [$12.00]
One of the things I love about Kumamotos is their bold crispness, but that was sorely lacking here. Rather, the oysters were somewhat milky, heavy, and creamy, and quite small to boot. The cocktail sauce and lemon didn't do much to help. A disappointment.


Ankimo [$10.50]
Steamed Monk Fish Liver with Spicy Ponzu Sauce. The ankimo had a pleasing, firm texture to it and a mild, subtle flavor. This flavor was expertly contrasted by the spicy finish of the momiji oroshi (grated daikon with chili), the tang of the scallion, and the sweetness of the ponzu. It reminded me of the ankimo at Shibucho. Quite good, though Ryan thought that the liver was too lean.


Unagi / Fresh Water Eel [$6.00]
It seems like I've been moving away from unagi to anago as of late. This made me remember why I liked unagi in the first place--its fatty, oily, luxurious texture necessitated the use of a sweet, syrupy sauce for balance. It was actually reminiscent of the unagi at my first sushi haunt: Sushi Wave.


Beef Sashimi [$15.00]
Though advertised as "sashimi," this was definitely more like a tataki, or even a sliced steak. Although Jane loathed this dish, I thought that it was at least passable. There was certainly nothing offensive (the beef was pretty flavorless), though I do think that it would've been better had it been cooked rarer and seasoned more strongly. For a true beef sashimi, take a gander at the beautiful beef throat at Totoraku.


Japanese-Style Ceviche [$14.00]
This was basically a mishmash of various cuts of fish, dressed up with a tart, acidic citrus sauce. The end result was actually quite delicious (can't go wrong with cilantro), albeit lacking a bit in finesse. The ceviche was served in a shrimp rice paper wrapper (as found in Chinese cuisine), which I likened to the tortilla bowl used in Taco Bell's Taco Salad!


Tamago / Egg Cake [$4.00]
Patrick always likes to order tamago, so we decided to end the meal with it. Unfortunately, I suspect that the example here was purchased, and not made in-house. It had a very "generic" taste to it--too sweet, and not eggy enough.


The bill comes in a nice wooden presentation case. At $55.50 per person, the food cost actually turned out less than I expected--I was bracing for much worse.

Overall, R23 served up solid, though not outstanding fare. Clearly, it's not at the level of the top sushi players such as Sushi Zo or Mori Sushi, not to mention Urasawa. I'd place it below the level of an Echigo or Sushi Sasabune as well. You can do better, but this isn't a bad place. I mean, it's been around for nearly 20 years, so they must be doing something right, right?

Father's Office (Los Angeles, CA)

Father's Office
3229 Helms Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90034
310.736.2224
www.fathersoffice.com
Sat 03/14/2009, 11:40p-12:30a



It should come as no surprise that the omakase at Wakasan I had earlier in the night wasn't enough to fill me up. Thus, after making a brief detour at Orchid in K-Town (a restaurant-cum-lounge-cum-karaoke club), we decided to pay a visit to the infamous Father's Office. Believe it or not, despite all the hype and fanfare surrounding the joint, I'd never made it out before.

The place is the brainchild of chef/owner Sang Yoon, former Executive Chef at Michael's in Santa Monica. Although hailing from a fine dining background, Yoon decided against opening a haute cuisine eatery and instead purchased and transformed a dive bar in Santa Monica, turning it into the first Father's Office back in 2005. The place was wildly successful, resulting in long lines and making it difficult for patrons to even get a place to sit (no reservations are taken). Thus, the second location, the subject of this post, was opened on April 21, 2008.

Father's Office is oft described as a "gastropub," basically a bar that offers food a notch above your typical pub grub. Their signature item is the Office Burger, touted by many as the best burger in Los Angeles. In addition, Father's Office focuses on providing patrons with a huge selection of craft and microbrew beers, offering a rotating selection of about around three dozen beers on tap at any given time. The restaurant also prides itself on its selection of unique wines and spirits.


The second coming of Father's Office is located on the site of the former Helms Bakery near Culver City. In addition to housing several restaurants, the complex is home to a large number of furniture stores. Parking, fortunately, is plentiful.


With a capacity of roughly 150, the new location is considerably larger than the original, significantly eliminating the need to "hover" for a seat. The room is dominated by the tap-lined bar, and there's also a private room for 28, as well as a long outdoor terrace. You won't find table service here, so all ordering is done via the bartenders, who can be quite surly from what I've heard.



The drink and food menus are shown above; click for larger versions. The beer selection is truly impressive, easily one of the most comprehensive I've seen. In addition to the beers, Father's Office is known for its rigid "no substitutions, modifications, alterations or deletions" policy, which I find irksome.


The daily specials are shown on an LCD screen at the bar. I guess it works, since we ended up ordering the mushrooms.


To drink, we ordered a 750mL bottle of Foret [$19], a bottle-conditioned Saison/Farmhouse Ale from Brasserie Dupont in Tourpes, Belgium. The Foret is unique because it's Belgium's only certified organic beer, made from 100% organically grown hops and barley and filtered artesian well water, without the use of pesticides or chemicals. Saisons are generally light, refreshing, effervescent beers, and the Foret was no exception. Its flavor was simultaneously spicy, tart, fruity, grassy, and acidic, all intermingled over a backdrop of bitter hops. A great example of the style.


Forest Mushrooms [$12.00]
Hedgehog, Black Trumpet, Shimeji, Asparagus, Bacon, One Hour Egg. This dish sounded promising, but failed to deliver. I appreciated the use of four different types of mushrooms, and their corresponding interplay of textures and tastes. However, the use of bacon made the dish far too salty, all but covering the mushrooms' natural flavors. All nuance was lost, resulting in a rather blunt taste overall. I did like the use of asparagus and egg in tempering the overwhelming savoriness of the bacon, but even they couldn't save the dish.


The Office Burger with Frites [$14.50]
Caramelized Onion, Bacon, Gruyére, Maytag Blue, Arugula. The moment of truth--my first bite instantly told me that this was a burger to be reckoned with. Apparently, Father's Office uses dry-aged meat, resulting in a deeper, bolder, more intensely beefy flavor than your typical hamburger patty. The beef was done medium rare, allowing the flavor of the meat to shine, while still maintaining a tender, juicy consistency in the process. The meat went superbly with the cheese, forming a delicious amalgam, though the Maytag wasn't particularly apparent. Meanwhile, I enjoyed the contrast between the sweetness of the onion, the intense savoriness of the applewood bacon compote, and the bitterness of the arugula. We ordered the burger with a side of pommes frites, for $2.50 extra. They had a nice, herb-tinged flavor, but texture-wise, they were too well-done for me. The accompanying aioli did the fries justice, adding a lemony tang to counter their saltiness.

Frankly, I'm not so sure what the hype is about. The burger was delicious, but the mushrooms fell short, and from what I've heard, the food in general is a step above typical bar food, but that sets a low bar to begin with. So basically, we have a bar with a fantastic beer selection, and passable food. Certainly nothing wrong with that, but people praise the place like it's the Second Coming. What I find more troubling is the draconian menu policy. I can "have it my way" with my Whopper at Burger King, I can substitute an ingredient on the Chef's Tasting Menu at French Laundry, so why can't I have ketchup with my fries? The whole policy smacks of arrogance, of being difficult for difficulty's sake, perhaps to convey some sort of false sense of pretension. Get over yourself Sang--your food ain't that great.

Wakasan (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

Wakasan
1929 Westwood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
310.446.5241
www.fooddigger.com/RestaurantDetail.aspx?id=21054 (FoodDigger, restaurant has no web site)
Sat 03/14/2009, 07:15p-10:00p



Unlike the sushi-focused Japanese restaurants I normally frequent, Wakasan serves up more rustic, home-style, izakaya-type fare. I'd been here before, but a friend of mine wanted to return, and I was game. The way to go at Wakasan is omakase, of which the restaurant offers four choices: $35, $55, $75, and $95. I didn't even know about anything but the $35 until recently, and as you might expect from me, I wanted to go all out and try the $95. The problem was that when we called, we were told that the $75 and $95 options usually require a week's notice, though it'd be possible to do them in one day. Not wanting to compromise the quality of the food (we were going in two days), we settled on the $55. Regarding my first visit, I wrote that the $35 omakase was a "downright steal" and that I "wouldn't feel out of place paying twice as much." It'd be interesting to see how much of an "upgrade" the $55 would represent.


I could only find the various omakase choices posted on the bathroom door of all places. The restaurant could do a better job at advertising their menu options.


The dining room is small, with about eight tables of varying sizes and seating along the walls. The space doesn't feel cramped however, but rather charming and inviting, with quaint touches abound.


Wakasan's drink list offers up a good selection of sake, as well as shochu and beer. Click for a larger version.


To start things off, we decided on a pitcher (60oz) of Sapporo Draft [$13], basically your typical Japanese rice lager. Sapporo sold in the US is generally brewed by in Canada (by Sleeman), but I wonder if that was the case here, as the beer tasted somewhat better than normal (or maybe's it was just due to it being on tap).




1: Appetizer Quartet

• Sansai - The first item I tried were the simmered greens (or sansai--"mountain vegetable"), flavored with bonito (skipjack tuna) broth, katsuobushi (dried bonito shavings, specifically the thinner hanakatsuo variety), and shiitake mushroom. The sansai had a slightly crunchy consistency, not unlike spinach. Its mild flavor was contrast sharply by the smoky, savory fishiness of the bonito. Very similar to the first dish on my last visit.
• Ankimo - I then took a bite of the ankimo, or monkfish liver. Paired with scallion and a sweet ponzu sauce, it reminded me of the superb ankimo I had at Shibucho. It had a great, firm texture and its mild, delicate flavor was deftly complemented by the sweet ponzu and zest of the scallion. Very nice--my favorite of the quartet.
• Kinpira Gobo - Gobo, also known as burdock, is root vegetable known for its mildly sweet, vegetal flavor and crunchy texture. Kinpira gobo is shredded burdock and carrot, traditionally cooked with soy sauce, mirin (sweet rice wine), and sugar. I'm not usually a fan of burdock, but thought that this preparation was quite tasty, with the sweetness of the root taking center stage.
• Ikura - The salmon roe was served over daikon oroshi, or grated daikon radish. My dining companions didn't care for this, though I didn't have a problem with it. I felt that the daikon tempered the brininess of the roe, but they found it overpowering.

2: Sunomono
I believe this would be considered a sunomono, or vinegar-marinated dish (lemon and mirin were used as well I believe). The ingredients were hotate, tako, uni, wakame seaweed, and cucumber. I first tried the scallop; it had a great texture, but the taste was a bit too fishy; fortunately the wasabi helped temper this. Next was the octopus, surprisingly soft, with a rich flavor alternating between sweet and savory--not bad. The uni, meanwhile, was good on its own, excellent with the wasabi. Overall, this was a middling course.


3: Sashimi
I loved the beautiful, rustic presentation of the sashimi here. We were given binnaga maguro (albacore), hamachi (yellowtail), and two types of tai (snapper). I first tasted the albacore; it had a distinctly creamy texture, uncharacteristic of the fish, but its flavor was curiously absent; the soy was a necessity. Next was the yellowtail, which I found much more flavorful. It had a noticeable, but not overwhelming fishiness to it, and exhibited a soft, but not overly fatty consistency--pretty good. As for the two types of snapper, the first was alfonsino, a.k.a. Tasmanian snapper or red bream. It was my favorite of the bunch, with a wonderfully crisp, snappy body paired with a mild, delicate flavor. The other tai was identified solely as being "from Japan." It wasn't nearly as good as the alfonsino, being tough, stringy, and nearly flavorless--soy didn't help much.


Once we dispensed with the beer, we moved on to sake: a large (14oz) Dewazakura Oka [$21]. Turns out they ran out of the large carafes, and instead gave us two small ones (actually not a bad deal since that's 2x8oz=16oz). The Dewazakura Oka is a ginjo-grade (rice polished to less than 60%) sake from Yamagata Prefecture. It was a very good, though not outstanding sake, with a lovely floral nose and juicy hints of fruit on the palate (no cherry though, despite the name "Oka" meaning "cherry blossom"). Soft, slightly viscous, with a smooth finish.


4: Kani, Ebi, Tamago
Though a relatively straightforward course of grilled crab legs and shrimp, this was easily my favorite of the meal. I first tasted the crab; wonderfully tender, the legs had their signature sweetness in spades, accented by a bit of brininess. This was perfectly contrasted with the savory flavor imparted by the grilling. The end result was fantastic. As good as the crab was, the shrimp was even better, with the natural flavor of the crustaceans highlighted by the use of garlic and spice, giving the shrimp an almost Chinese flavor. It was simply the best shrimp I've had in recent memory. To finish things off, the egg omelet was a relatively mild contrast to the power of the rest of the dish, but even it was augmented by a bit of savory eel stuffing--very nice.




5: Duck Nabemono
Nabemono, or nabe, can be thought of as a hot pot, along the lines of a sukiyaki or shabu shabu. Here, the featured ingredients were beautiful slices of ruby red duck, complemented with greens, tofu, enoki mushroom, leek, and scallion. The cooking vessel itself was powered by a petroleum-based solid fuel, and heated an intense, savory broth (I'm thinking soy and/or dashi based) held in a paper container; the whole setup was similar to what I've had at Urasawa before. We had great fun cooking the various items, and I really savored the interplay of all the different ingredients, trying out different combinations. The duck itself took on almost foie gras-like flavor, steeped with the rich flavor of the broth. A delicious, heartwarming dish.


The last and final beverage was a bottle of Kokuryu [$50], a junmai ginjo from Fukui Prefecture. I think this was actually mistakenly listed as a daiginjo; the seimai-buai, or rice polishing ratio, is only 55%, above the 50% threshold for daiginjo. In any case, this was quite a different sake than the Dewazakura Oka above. It wasn't as floral or fruity, but gave hints of spice, cocoa, and salt. Interesting and complex--the only problem was that the finish was a bit too hot for me.


6: Uni-Maguro Don
This was a bowl of nori-infused rice, topped with tuna, uni, and wasabi. The lush, fatty tuna and sea urchin were great on their own--creamy, luxurious, decadent--but even better when accented by the spicy tang of wasabi. They were tempered by the rice, which was slightly sticky, and embedded with a nori, giving it an absolutely delightful seaweed flavor. This was served with pickles (daikon and cabbage), which added a lovely sour crunch to complement the dish.


7: Cream Pudding
This was similar flavor-wise to a crème brûlée, but without the hard caramelized top. The custard had a rich, creamy flavor that was quite in-your-face; its intensity was fortunately mitigated by the fruit. Not a bad dessert, but I would've liked something more inventive.

All in all, this was a solid meal, but not necessarily better than the $35 version. Indeed, the ingredients were more luxurious, and the preparations more involved, but the whole experience wasn't really more satisfying. And let's not forget that we only had seven courses here, versus the 13 last time. Nevertheless, I do want to return sometime and see how the $95 version compares.

CUT (Beverly Hills, CA) [3]

CUT
9500 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310.276.8500
www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/finedining/cut/beverlyhills/
Sat 03/07/2009, 06:10p-09:20p



As regulars readers will attest to, I've often written about CUT being the premier steakhouse in Southern California. Despite that fact, I wasn't in a hurry to go back. But this particular night, March 7, also marked the one-year anniversary of kevinEats (the site went live on 3/7/08), so I suppose that gave me an "excuse" to celebrate (sometimes I need to rationalize things). Joining me were food bloggers Fiona of Gourmet Pigs, Mike of Right Way to Eat (who came up with the idea of going to CUT), and Ryan of Only Eat What Feeds Your Soul, among others.

Please see the posts from my first or second trips for some better photos. Daylight saving time had not hit during this visit (we actually missed it by one day!), so natural light was unfortunately lacking.


The menu was pretty much the same as last time--and the time before that--much to my disappointment. The appetizers have always been a strong point at CUT, so I'd really like to see the kitchen turn out some new creations. The dessert menu is slightly more novel, thanks in part I'm sure to the new pastry chef Nicole Lindsay, who replaces Ian Flores. Lindsay started out working for Tim and Liza Goodell's Domaine Restaurants. She had stints at the legendary OC French eatery Aubergine, the now defunct Troquet at South Coast Plaza (since replaced by the wonderful Marché Moderne), and the shuttered Red Pearl Kitchen in Downtown Huntington Beach (which was replaced by Takashi Abe's Izakaya Zero--recently closed down itself) before ending up at Spago and now CUT. Lee Hefter retains the Executive Chef title at CUT as well as Spago, while Ari Rosenson (formerly Executive Sous Chef at Spago) remains Chef de Cuisine. Click for larger versions.


Once again, we started with the fantastic breadsticks and gougères. Though delicious, I would've liked to have seen something new in the amuse bouche department.


The bread selection hasn't changed much either, with pumpernickel, pretzel, rustic wheat, and onion focaccia available.


I love to start off with bubbly, so we ordered a bottle of the 2002 Jose Dhondt Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Mes Vieilles Vignes [$122.00] to wash down our appetizers. A powerful sparkler, it showed loads of tart fruit on the palate, along with a bit of herbaceousness and light minerality. Its yeasty, toasty finish was reminiscent of an old (1990's) Krug.


Prime Sirloin "Steak Tartare", Herb Aioli, Mustard [$22.00]
A very competent, classic preparation of steak tartar--basically a dish of raw ground beef named after the Tatar people of Central Asia; legend has it that the nomads would place raw meat underneath their horses' saddles, thus tenderizing it after a long journey. Here, the meat itself was of high quality, and was livened up by the application of the tangy aioli, tart mustard, and smooth creamy richness of the quail egg. Experiencing all the various components in one bite was satisfying indeed, and delicious.


#1 Grade Blue Fin "Toro" Tartare, Wasabi Aioli, Ginger, Togarashi Crisps, Tosa Soy [$32.00]
I've had enough tuna tartares during the course of my culinary adventures that the dish has become somewhat clichéd. Fortunately, this one managed to break out of the mold somewhat. The mild sweetness of the tuna came through, but was superbly accented by the spiciness of the wasabi and the zestiness of the ginger. Meanwhile, the avocado, with its cool creaminess, served as a moderating contrast. Much improved from the first time, though I still think it could do with some more textural variety (like the pine nut- and pear-studded version at XIV).


Kobe Steak Sashimi, Spicy Radishes [$22.00]
I absolutely loved this on my first visit, but tonight the dish fell short of that last experience. The beef itself seemed less rich, less flavorful, while the dish overall had a more distinct "Asian" tinge to it. I did appreciate the application of the tangy sauce, greens, and radishes and how they complemented the meat, but even they weren't enough to propel it to the heights I expected.


Warm Veal Tongue, Marinated Artichokes, Cannellini Beans, "Salsa Verde" [$17.00]
I was extremely impressed with the veal tongue on my second visit, and thus decided to order it again. Unfortunately, it didn't live up to its previous self. The tongue's flavor was much gamier this time around, and overpowered the rest of the dish. Furthermore, the texture was also much firmer, and not nearly as tender. Sadly, the best part of this dish were the cannellini beans.


Maple Glazed Pork Belly, Asian Spices, Watercress, Sesame-Orange Dressing, Rhubarb Compote [$16.00]
This ended up being the only appetizer that I hadn't tasted before. Being pork belly, the meat was fatty, flavorful, and tender, as expected. However, the sweet glaze was a bit too much for me (like a fancy sweet & sour sauce), drowning out the natural flavor of the pork. Fortunately, the greens did help in tempering this to some extent.


We ended up having a difficult time choosing a wine for our steaks, finally ending up with a Fiona's choice of a Southern Rhône wine: the 1997 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape [$190.00]. The wine actually reminded me a bit of Pinot, with heady notes of spice, smoke, dark fruit, and game. The tannins were light but apparent, while the finish was middling. Decent with the steak, but not outstanding.



Kobe Beef Short Ribs "Indian Spiced", Curried Sweet Pea Purée, Garam Masala, Slowly Cooked For Eight Hours [$39.00]
Sashimi Quality Big Eye Tuna Steak [$42.00]
I decided to break away from tradition and actually order some non-steak items this time. Interestingly, and unexpectedly, the kitchen decided to split up the two courses into individual serving portions. First up were some short ribs. Initially, the ribs had a rather prototypical flavor to them, but after a few moments, the garam masala (a blend of spices) really made itself known, giving the meat a delightfully Indian-laced finish. A fun, flavorful dish--a twist on the classic short rib. Next was some big eye tuna. I hadn't had a good tuna steak in a while, so this was a welcomed change of pace. The fish was cooked to a firm texture on the outside, but the interior was still delectably rare. All the while, the mild flavor of the tuna was apparent in spades, deftly accented by the dish's herbally accoutrements--nice.


Now we get to what drew us here in the first place--the meat. CUT serves up four types of beef: regular, dry aged, American Wagyu, and Japanese Wagyu. In the tradition of past meals here, we decided on making our own steak tasting, getting one NY strip of each type in order to compare the subtle and not-so-subtle differences between them. All steaks were done medium rare, grilled over hard wood and charcoal before being finished in a 1200-degree broiler.


U.S.D.A. Prime, Illinois Corn Fed, Aged 21 Days; Bone In New York Sirloin 20 Oz [$56.00]
The "low-end" steak at CUT is still a cut above most. It is a wet-aged steak, with a mild flavor--tender, but not overwhelmingly so, with nicely charred exterior. My only real complaint was that a few bites had a bit of gristle in them. Though it was overshadowed somewhat by its peers, I'd be perfectly happy just eating this.


U.S.D.A. Prime, Nebraska Corn Fed, Dry Aged 35 Days; New York Sirloin 14 Oz [$59.00]
Now here's basically a dry-aged version of the standard steak. Dry-aging is a relatively expensive method of concentrating the beef's flavor through a process of controlled rotting. The price premium is worth it though. The flavor here was richer, grassier, and bolder. Interestingly, in terms of texture, the meat was slightly tougher.


American Wagyu / Angus "Kobe Style" Beef From Snake River Farms, Idaho; New York Sirloin 8 Oz [$75.00]
Snake River Farms beef is actually a cross between Wagyu and Angus varieties, and thus, the meat represents a medium between the two styles. Tenderness was definitely kicked up a notch here, as was oiliness and fattiness, while flavor was retained. Surprisingly, this was actually my favorite of the quartet this time (it was my least favorite last time!).


True Japanese 100% Wagyu Beef From Saga Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan; New York Sirloin 6 Oz [$120.00]
The amount of marbling, the amount of fat here was intense, resulting in a soft, gelatinous texture. This "real deal" Japanese beef had been my favorite on prior visits, but didn't live up to the hype this time around. I felt that the meat was somewhat "drier," lacking the rich, oozing juiciness present before. The fat was also not as well-integrated--it was more in-your-face, drawing attention away from the beef's natural flavor instead of augmenting it. Time for dessert...


Brooke Cherry Toasted Almond Crumble, Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream [$14.00]
This was basically ice cream and fruit, on top of which our server spooned the cherry crumble. The whole thing reminded me of a yogurt parfait, with the ice cream tempering the tartness of the crumble, while also providing a great contrast in texture as well as temperature.


Dark Chocolate Soufflé, Whipped Crème Fraîche, Gianduja Ice Cream [$14.00]
Though I'm not a huge fan of soufflés, we somehow end up ordering one every time! The dessert remained pretty much unchanged from before--light, fluffy, not too sweet, well accentuated by the cold nuttiness of the gianduja (a hazelnut-chocolate ice cream) and the slight tang of the crème fraîche.


Warm Brioche Doughnuts, Huckleberry Compote, Butter Pecan Ice Cream [$14.00]
We're saving the best for last. The doughnuts were simply fantastic--delicate, yet powerful enough to stand on their own, they were taken to another level by the tart, fruity huckleberry (think jelly-filled doughnuts) and the rich, nutty ice cream. I thought that this was right up there with the infamous "Coffee and Doughnuts" at French Laundry, while one of my dining companions called these the "best doughnuts I've ever had."


As before, we had three types of cookies to end the meal: lemon, caramel crunch (my favorite), and chocolate.

Sadly, I'd have to say that this was my weakest trip to CUT so far. In terms of the appetizers, all except the tartares fell short of expectations, while the steak wasn't quite as good as I recalled. There were highlights, to be sure, but overall, I felt a bit let down leaving the meal. Some of the novelty has worn off, and I think the kitchen needs to change things up a bit--maybe that's it. Nevertheless, I do still think that CUT is the best place for steak in LA, and I'm sure I'll be back (just not too soon).