Hatchi at Breadbar (Los Angeles, CA)

Hatchi at Breadbar
10250 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90067
310.277.3770
www.breadbar.net
Thu 07/30/2009, 08:00p-11:35p



Given the smashing success of Ludo Bites, it was inevitable that Breadbar would institute other such "pop-up-style" events. Hatchi, a collaboration between Breadbar and Noriyuki Sugie (progenitor of Crudobar and Bentobar), is a prime example. Billed with the tagline "8 Plates at 8 Dollars," Hatchi ("eight" in Japanese) is a series of dinners that brings an up-and-coming guest chef into Breadbar's kitchens to prepare an original, one-off, one-night-only collection of eight dishes (six savory, two sweet), priced at $8 each. Diners can chose as few* or as many dishes and they'd like (*minimum three), creating their own "tasting menu," in a sense. The Series debuted on June 25 with Chef Debbie Lee of The Next Food Network Star, which I unfortunately missed. Given that the second guest chef would be none other than Michael Voltaggio, I made sure to make my reservation early this time around (good thing, since the event ended up being completely sold out). Following Voltaggio are chefs Roberto Cortez (August 6), Remi Lauvand (September 24), and Eda Vesterman (October 29).

The timing of Voltaggio's performance couldn't have been better. As we all know, in addition to being a contestant on the new season of Top Chef, Voltaggio recently became the head chef at The Dining Room at The Langham in Pasadena (replacing Craig Strong, who moved to Studio at The Montage). Prior, he was, of course, the Chef de Cuisine at José Andrés' much-lauded The Bazaar/Saam, where he earned that infamous four-star review from Sherry Irene Virbila. Before this, Voltaggio was Chef de Cuisine of Hemisphere and Tavern Room at The Greenbrier in West Virginia. Interestingly, early in his career, Voltaggio worked as an apprentice at The Greenbrier, only to return a decade later after cutting his teeth at The Ritz-Carlton Naples and Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, CA, where he was Executive Chef. Voltaggio's style, which he really came into at The Greenbrier, blends contemporary American foundations with a smattering of ultramodern techniques (some of which veer toward molecular), in the process presenting familiar flavors in new and inventive ways. I'd experienced his cooking before at Saam, so I was very curious as to what he'd come up with here, unencumbered by the penumbra of Andrés' shadow.


Wrapped in sleek sheaths of wood, Breadbar is situated in the Westfield Century City Mall, along with other eateries such as Gulfstream, Houston's, Pink Taco, and Rock Sugar. Thankfully, parking is free (for three hours) and plentiful in the mall's subterranean structure.


The theme continues into the cozy interior, and by cozy, I mean hot--my dining companions and I were sweating up quite a storm in there...


Voltaggio's menu for the night was dubbed "An Experience of Texture and Flavor: An Artistic Series of Small Plates Inspired by My Life as a Cook," with wine pairings by David Haskell (ex-owner of the now-shuttered Bin 8945 wine bar). Click for a larger version.


1: Artichokes "Barigoule" | Salmon Belly, Philadelphia Cheese, Smoked Salmon Roe
NV Francois Chidaine: Loire, France: Grapes: Chenin Blanc, Cab. Franc
Dinner began with Voltaggio's take on barigoule, a classic Provençal dish of braised artichokes in a light white wine nage. I started with the salmon, a heavy, oily portion that was prototypical belly. It was quite delicious on its own, but its savory, briny flavor was heightened by the salty, smoky ikura, while the "cream cheese" added a palpable weight to the fish. The key, thus, was indeed the artichokes, which were possessing of a distinctive tang that effectively balanced the gravity of the salmon. A pleasing start to the meal.


2: Japanese Tomato Tartare | Green Almonds, Parmesan "Overeasy", Tapenade Powders
2006 Krizevic Winery: Kalnik, Croatia: Grape: Grasevina (Blue Danube Wine)
Upon cursory glance, one could've mistaken this dish for a classic beef tartare, topped with the requisite egg; such a thought would be selling the Chef's whimsy short however. Rather, Voltaggio substitutes tomato for meat, and cheese for egg--a beef tartare fit for a (lacto-) vegetarian, in a sense. I first tasted the tartare sans "egg," and found it actually not dissimilar from a classic insalata Caprese in sapor. Adding the Parmesan elevated the richness of the dish, while the green almonds provided a pleasing tart nuttiness, completing the experience. I was initially concerned that the tapenade would be overwhelming, but rather, it provided merely a subtle note of olive on the finish.


3: Hamachi Crudo | Smoked Egg Yolk, Sea Sponge, Watermelon, Wild Rice
2008 Ch. Revelette Rose: Aix En Provence: Grapes: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan
Here, we have a fascinating study in the interplay of sweet and savory. There was a lot going on, but the focus for me was the complex of hamachi, melon, and sea sponge. The yellowtail, in a sense, was a canvas; on one hand, it was kissed by the fruity essence of watermelon, with just a hint of rice, while on the other, the sponge and yolk provided a foil to an otherwise saccharine crudo, giving the whole amalgam a lingering, salty finish. Furthermore, the wasabi was instrumental in contributing a piquant tang, offsetting the gravitas of the rest of the dish. Finally, the wild rice gave things a delightful crunch, adding a bit of fun to a complex, contemplative dish. I couldn't help but compare this to the Bluefin Tuna Toro I'd had at Saam; fortunately, I found this preparation much more effective.


4: Veal Sweetbread | Poached Egg, Pea Consomme, Coffee-Cardamom Soil
Dios Baco Oloroso Sherry: Jerez, Spain
Taking the sweetbreads alone, I found them firm but creamy, immensely flavorful, yet not overwhelming, not gamy. Combining the coffee-cardamom "soil" added a marked bittersweet component that I quite liked, balancing the momentousness of the sweetbreads. For me, what made this course though was the egg, cooked at 140°F according to our server (to ensure consistency between yolk and white). The result was a creamy contrast, a divine element that simply brought even more depth, even more breadth to the sweetbreads, revealing a previously latent side to them that I found particularly enjoyable. Very nice.


5: Crispy Chicken Thigh | Cuttlefish, Green Garlic, Sweet and Sour Mushrooms
Dues Beer: Flanders, Belgium and Champagne, France; Grape...dude it's BEER
I usually eschew chicken on restaurant menus, viewing the bird as bland, boring, but this course went a long way in challenging that perception. Alone, the chicken was excellent--juicy, flavorful, with a delectably crisp skin--easily one of the best incarnations I've had. What took it to the next level for me was the combination of cuttlefish and green garlic, which lent a fantastic, light, bright brininess that went surprisingly well with the bird. The 'shrooms, meanwhile, gave everything a pointed earthiness, steeped in the acerbic tang of sweet and sour. My favorite course of the night.


6: Wagyu Beef | Short Rib, Saul's Pastrami, Tamarind, Broccoli Textures, Horseradish "Styrofoam"
2007 Dingac Winery: Peljesac, Croatia: Grape: Plavac (Blue Danube Wine)
Though broccoli may be the bane for some, I've always had a fondness for it. Here, the veggie was presented in three forms: thinly-sliced stalks, purée, and charred florets--a fancy broccoli and beef, thus. As for the beef, it was presented in short rib and pastrami form, the pastrami being my preferred variant, with a lean beefy flavor accented by lovely peppery notes and a bit of sweetness from the tamarind. The short rib, meanwhile, was similarly flavorful, but a bit tougher than I expected for Wagyu. In any case, the florets tended to emphasize the savory nature of the meat (a bit disconcerting, actually), but the best part for me was the interaction between the beef and the crisp, light broccoli stalks. For one of my dining companions, the best dish in the series.


7: Miso Cake | Jasmine "Rice Cream", Strawberry, Yuzu
NV Jean-Paul Brun: Beaujolais, France: Grape: "Mousseux" Gamay
Eating this, I couldn't help but think of Frosted Flakes with strawberries! The most interesting element here, clearly, was the "rice cream," an ice cream with a distinct sweet, ricey flavor that recalled Ludo's Sushi Rice Ice Cream. It served a similar role here, providing a foil to the sugary sweetness of the berries. Our thoughts were mixed regarding the strip of coagulated strawberry, which had the consistency of ham, along with a bit of apparent savoriness as well--one of my dining companions likened it to a Fruit Roll-Up.


8: Fool's Gold | Hazelnut Praline, Salty Caramel, Nitro Coffee Mousse
2007 D. Ferrer Ribiere 130 Old Vine: Cotes Catalanes, France; Grape: Carignan
According to one of my dining companions, this tasted like a Ferrero Rocher candy! I can see where he was going with that. The presence of hazelnut was quite pronounced, too much so for me, in fact; I would've appreciated the chocolate taking on a more apparent role. Nevertheless, the dessert was still enjoyable, and I applaud the use of a salted caramel here, as well as the nitro coffee mousse, which was indescribably cold, light, and airy, almost like a meringue.


Hatchi turned out to be the event for local food bloggers. I personally encountered Andrea of The Foodie Traveler, Christine of Folie à Choisauce, Connie of Hey Hey Scenesters, Danny of Kung Food Panda, Esther of e*star LA, H.C. of LA and OC Foodventures, Jo of My Last Bite, Kate of Princess Kitty's Lala-Land, Mike of Right Way to Eat, Ryan of Only Eat What Feeds Your Soul, Tony of SinoSoul, and yes, even the elusive Lizziee of Refined Palate (David Haskell's mom!). Apparently Tara of When Tara Met Blog was also present, though I didn't spy her. Hell, even Marcel Vigneron of Top Chef fame (whom I met at Saam, and who was also at Ludo Bites) was in the house.

For me, Hatchi was nearly an unmitigated success. I love the idea, the concept, and food-wise, execution was almost spot-on. Service, however, left something to be desired; given the venue though, I'm willing to overlook the service foibles, based on the strength of everything else. I've already made reservations for next week's dinner with Roberto Cortez, and I can't wait.

More importantly, I was able to get a taste of what Voltaggio is capable of, by himself, sans the sway of our favorite Spanish chef. There's a lot of potential methinks, and I'm planning to visit The Dining Room this weekend, to see Voltaggio in his natural environment. Stay tuned.

Blogger Prom (West Hollywood, CA)

Blogger Prom
8401 W Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.656.1234
blogger-prom.blogspot.com
Wed 07/22/2009, 07:00p-10:00p



Ahh prom...for some, the highlight of the high school experience; for others, an evening of dread, anxiety, of awkwardness, fear, loathing, of embarrassment. Sadly, my prom experience tended toward the latter, a sentiment that I imagine is shared by many of my blogger brethren. Perhaps that's why the idea of doing a "prom" came so easily...a chance to relive the fantasy, to redo the wrongs of years past. As a 1999 graduate (I just had my 10-year reunion), the timing couldn't have been more perfect.

The event was the handiwork of the Prom Committee (a.k.a. "the popular kids"), eight of LA's most preeminent, prestigious, prominent bloggers: Caroline of Caroline on Crack, Esther of e*star LA, H.C. of LA and OC Foodventures, Lindsay of LAist, Marni of Happy Go Marni, Maya of Shop Eat Sleep, Natalie of The Liquid Muse, Tara of When Tara Met Blog. The original idea was to have a simple gathering of Los Angeles-based bloggers, but as more than a couple Committee members work in the public relations industry, they were able to exploit their sway to secure all sorts of schweet swag, support, and sponsorships, subsequently setting the stage for Prom.

Though holding Blogger Prom in a high school gym would've been pretty rad, the Committee found something even more bodacious: the rooftop of the legendary Andaz West Hollywood, which had just undergone a $35 million renovation in January. Originally opened in 1963 as Gene Autry’s Hotel Continental (the first high-rise hotel on Sunset), the hotel was bought by Hyatt in 1966 and became widely known as the "Riot Hyatt" over the following years, thanks to the antics of touring rock bands in the late 1960s and 1970s (the hotel is located near numerous venues such as The Roxy, Troubadour, and Whisky a Go Go). Led Zeppelin and its entourage occupied as many as six floors of the hotel in the mid-to-late 1970s; drummer John Bonham was said to have ridden a motorcycle through the hallways. The Doors' Jim Morrison took up residence at the Continental Hyatt House, and both Rolling Stones guitarist Keith Richards and The Who drummer Keith Moon have reportedly thrown television sets out the hotel's windows (there'll be no more of that, as the Andaz's balconies are now glass-enclosed sunrooms).


Overestimating traffic, we arrived about 40 minutes early, and thus spent some time with our vivacious mixologist at RH Lounge.


I ordered one of RH's signature cocktails, Mr. Plant, a homage to Led Zeppelin's frontman Robert Plant, made with No. 209 gin, cucumber, tangerine, agave syrup, and soda; I appreciated the gin's interaction with the various sweet components of the drink, while the cucumber made for a refreshing finish. My date, meanwhile, ordered a Lychee Blossom, a concoction of vanilla vodka, lychee juice, agave syrup, and lychees; the sweetness of this drink was much more apparent, with the lychee lending a sugary, juicy backdrop that tempered the intensity of the vodka.


Since we did have 40 minutes to kill after all, another round of drinks was in order. This time I sampled RH's other signature drink, The Steelo, with Hangar 1 vodka, St. Germain liqueur, grapefruit juice, and blueberries; this was a more potent drink than the preceding two, though its power was balanced by the tart sweetness of the blueberry, St. Germain, and grapefruit. Having her fill of mixed drinks, my date went with some bubbly, the Pierre Gimonnet Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs.


At around 7:00, the official start of the party, we wandered to the hotel's lobby to check in, drinks in hand, and then made our way to the rooftop...


...And immediately made a beeline to the bar. The very fact that there would be booze here meant that it was automatically more bitch'n than high school prom. The fact that it was free booze, well that made it all the more gnarly. Natalie of The Liquid Muse developed two signature cocktails for Blogger Prom. The first was the Prom Punch Jungle Juice (quite a step up from the Jungle Juice of my college days!), made with flower-infused Pinky Vodka and garnished with a pink sugar rim and lollipop. Next, the margarita-like Flor de Maria, replete with homemade hibiscus cabernet syrup, was created to showcase Gran Centenario's hibiscus-tinged Rosangel tequila. In addition to these complementary cocktails, also provided gratis were Martin Millers Gin, the 2007 Boro Hills Sauvignon Blanc, the 2008 Ambas Malbec, and for the beer-inclined, Newcastle in its new DraughtKeg container.



And now for the grindage, 'cuz a blogger gotta eat. Though I was sort of hoping for a proper sit down dinner, we had several tables of food set up, courtesy of the hotel restaurant RH and its chef Sebastien Archambault. The Texas-born, French-trained Archambault was formerly executive chef at Le Pirate in Corsica, which earned a Michelin star during his tenure. At RH restaurant, Archambault strives to create an honest menu of fresh, light, seasonal fare, and at this first station we were able to enjoy smoked salmon makis with mango sauce, marinated smoked salmon, skewered insalata capreses, and a delectable shrimp ceviche.


Since the theme du jour was "cheesy 80's prom," I expected to see my share of hot pink and black lace, but what I didn't expect to see were no less than five girls with identical or similar dresses; blame Forever 21 for that! Above, we see my lovely date Kayla, together with Michelle.


Making our way indoors, we stopped by the cheese station, manned by Barrie Lynn (the Cheese Impresario) and featuring cheese by Cowgirl Creamery. For my drink (the Flor de Maria), Barrie paired a goat brie and a goat cheese with blueberry and pomegranate compote (which I subsequently dropped all over my white pants...grr). In addition to cheese, there was also a charcuterie station.



Bloggers are a motley crew.




The hot food station served up an assortment of bread, mini eggrolls, more caprese, beef and chicken skewers, and a field mushroom risotto with Parmesan.


As the night progressed, the space filled out nicely with the City's best and brighest bloggers.


Jonathan Fong was responsible for much of the interior decoration, including this kitschy flower-studded boom box.


HC-cum-Newcastle: a winning combination.


Caroline: a strong contender for the cheesiest costume award!


To indulge my sweet tooth, Pure Cheesecakes provided mini-cheesecake pops, while Polkatots served up some mini-cupcakes.


Christine, with the dapper Joe of Silver Lake Wine.


Raffle winners were announced in three rounds, but sadly, I didn't win anything (and there were some phat prizes too!).


Afterwards, we headed over to 8oz Burger Bar to take advantage of their Blogger Prom special: a Melrose burger, fries, and a soda, all for $8--not a bad deal. The burger itself was topped with blue cheese, arugula, garlic roasted tomatoes, and red onion marmalade, making is rather similar to a Father's Office burger.


Last but not least: the swag bag. Stuffed in a Fresh & Easy reusable canvas bag were the following goodies: a "Born to Blog" t-shirt from The Gap, a Dark Mocha Almond bar from Kashi, a set of Hearos earplugs, the 2009 Los Angeles edition of Hungry? Deck, a Rosangel Tequila silk scarf, a Fruit + Nut bar from Bear Naked, a card for a free taco from the Border Grill truck, a complement of Wet personal lubricants (for post-Prom activities), a coupon for a free Six Dollar Burger from Carl's Jr., a bottle of Volcanic Ash Root Amplifier from David Babaii for WildAid, a coupon for a complementary English muffin from La Grande Orange, a card for a free mojito and a free margarita at Border Grill in Santa Monica, a coupon for $30 off at Madam Tussauds, a free pass to a show at The Viper Room, miniature bottles of Martin Millers Gin and Pinky Vodka, a coupon for a free fruit parfait from Pinkberry, a box of chocolates from Charles Chocolates, a 12fl oz bottle of the new Pepsi Natural, a $5 off coupon from Fresh & Easy, a coupon for 30% off at Live! on Sunset, passes for two to The Comedy Store, a free membership card for Club Pogo, the Season 1 DVD of The Big Bang Theory, a gift certificate to Pop Champagne & Dessert Bar, a Goldstar.com poster, and a 10.5oz bag of Sun Chips Original (whew!).

So in the end, perhaps Prom was a bit self-indulgent, a bit self-involved, a bit self-masturbatory, but it was also wicked cool. My hat's off to the Prom Committee: you gals (and one guy) pulled it off; thank you again. In fact, why let this be a one-off occurrence? Let's make this a yearly event, because, you know what, bloggers are the new rockstars (note: last line should be read with tongue firmly planted in cheek!).

Blogger Prom

On Wednesday, July 22, a select group of eight LA-based bloggers will be hosting Blogger Prom on the rooftop of the Hyatt Andaz (the infamous "Riot Hyatt") in West Hollywood.

In attendance will be 150 or so of the City's best and brightest bloggers. It should be a pretty fun time, with plenty of free food, free booze, and some serious swag.

As an invitee, I get to bring along a guest. Since the most rewarding aspect of this blog has been meeting and interacting with readers, I thought it might be fun to open it up to you. Interested in going? Shoot me an email.

Angelini Osteria (Los Angeles, CA)

Angelini Osteria
7313 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.297.0070
www.angeliniosteria.com
Wed 07/15/2009, 08:10p-10:45p



Of all the Italian eateries in this City, perhaps none have been celebrated more than Angelini Osteria, the eponymous brainchild of chef/owner Gino Angelini. Angelini (born 1953 in Rimini, Emilia-Romagna, Italy) began his life of cookery at age 14, and by age 23, was helming the kitchens at the luxurious l'Hotel Ambasciatori. Angelini's fame spread quickly throughout Italy, and he soon played host to dozens of luminaries and influentials. In 1995, Angelini moved to Los Angeles, where he worked at the late Mauro Vincenti's Rex Il Ristorante (in the space currently occupied by Cicada). Following, in late 1997, Angelini opened Vincenti Ristorante in Brentwood with Maureen Vincenti (Mauro's widow); the restaurant still stands today, under the watch of chef Nicola Mastronardi, who was mentored by Angelini.

In October 2001, Angelini opened his own restaurant, focused on deftly-executed northern Italian cuisine, and even eight years later, the place continues to garner consistent fame and acclaim. Following the success of the Osteria, Angelini opened La Terza with Gianluca Sarti in 2004. Unfortunately, the restaurant didn't match the smashing success of Angelini Osteria, and in early 2009, La Terza was replaced by Minestraio, a more downmarket trattoria focused on pastas and other traditional fare. Given everything that's surrounded Angelini, I was eager to try the Osteria out; a dinner organized by reader Selina (whom I met at Wurstküche) was thus a perfect opportunity to give it a shot.


The sleek, contemporary exterior of the restaurant was not what I was expecting. If you can't make it inside, seating is available on the patio, though I hear that service can bit a be slow out there. Street parking is tricky, so I'd recommend valet. You can use the stand up in front of the restaurant (the official valet), or use the one 'round back (turn right at Poinsettia).


The restaurant's interior is similarly sleek, adorned in light wood and simple lines, belying Angelini's classic fare. The diminutive space required some fancy moves on the part of our waiters, who had to partake in some skillful maneuvering just to reach the opposite ends of our (admittedly large) table.


The menu consists of the "standard" carte (first two photos), and a list of Specials (which, apparently, don't change all that often); click for larger versions. All this makes deciding what to have a bit daunting. Fortunately, despite being overly-enthusiastic and overly-accented, our very Italian waiter was helpful in goading us toward the right dishes to have (hint: choose mostly from the Specials).


A bread basket was summarily brought out, brimming with four types of bread, including grissini, a thin, crisp flatbread (pane carasau? Piadina Romagnola?), Pane di Altamura, and what I believe was ciabatta. Olive oil (from Puglia possibly) was provided in a bottle on the table.


Polipo Warm Octopus with Arugula and Cherry Tomatoes [$16.00]
The meal started off strong with a lovely presentation of octopus. The cephalopod was cooked to a nice char (giving it a slight crunch), and to a flavor and was simultaneously savory, yet let the natural briny sweetness of octopus shine through. As good as the polipo was on its own, the sweet-bitter-salty interplay between the it, the juicy tomato, and pungent arugula was key. A favorite of the table, and one of the best preparations of octopus I've had.


Grilled Quail with Guanciale, Mixed Baby Greens and Saba Sauce [$17.00]
Though the quail didn't reach the heights of the octopus, it was still quite tasty, with a strong flavor that was enhanced the saltiness of the guanciale (unsmoked pig's cheek bacon), while being tempered by bittersweet flavor of the veggies (which also provided a great crisp texture element) and saba (grape must reduction with a touch of balsamic).


Grilled Sweet Italian Sausage with Cannellini Beans [$11.00]
I've never met a sausage I didn't like, so this sweet Italian varietal (done in the style of salsicce lucane, according to a reader) was a must try for me. The meat itself was a delicious amalgam of sweet and savory, with a delectable snappy casing to boot. Its weight was balanced by the tangy pickled vegetables, while the cannellinis (white kidney beans) added a moderating touch to ground the dish.


Risotto with Mixed Seafood Ragú [$20.00]
I've also never met a risotto I didn't like, so this version, a Veneto-style preparation as determined by a comment below, replete with cuttlefish, shrimp, and mussels, was another must try for me. The focus here wasn't on the rice, but rather the interaction between the briny seafood and the tart tomato sauce, which resulted in a brackish attack, a tangy tomato midpalate, and a lingering finish imbued with the essence of the ocean. Overall, a bit blunt, but effective. Perhaps some lemon would've added some subtlety here?


Lasagna Verde "Omaggio Nonna Elvira" with Beef and Veal Ragú [$14.00]
One of my dining companions ordered what is arguably Angelini Osteria's most famous dish, the green lasagna (with spinach added), an "homage to grandma Elvira" and a specialty of Bologna. A brick of a nearly a dozen layers of pasta, meat, and cheese, topped with fried spinach, it was a heavy dish, but perhaps lighter than most, with a slightly vegetal finish. It was probably the most conventional item I had.


And with that, we were done with the savories. For dessert, we had the selection shown here (click for a larger version), but also could chose from a handful of items on the Specials menu above.


Bonet Piemontese [$9.00]
I asked our aforementioned overly-zealous waiter what his favorite dessert was, and he quickly came back with the bonnet, a Piedmontese pudding/custard cake of chocolate, coffee, and amaretti. He was right. Everybody loved its decadent sweetness, balanced with a superb nuttiness and subtle bitterness. Excellent, especially when eaten with the included blueberries. Thanks to my dining companions, I was also able to try the Crostata di Cioccolato [$9], which was comparatively pedestrian, and the superb Creme di Mascarpone [$9].

I came into Angelini Osteria expecting to be let down, but the place is actually quite good. Food was mostly on point, a bit of a departure from the norm, and the vibe was fun, festive. Angelini didn't "wow" me per se, but I can see why everyone loves it.

Ira's Gourmet (Pasadena, CA)

Ira's Gourmet
704 W Howard St, Pasadena, CA 91103
626.345.9931
Sat 07/11/2009, 06:20p-08:30p



Indonesia is comprised of thousands of individual islands, resulting in a national cuisine that is a patchwork of regional foods intertwined with local and foreign influences. The fare draws particularly upon the traditions of India, the Middle East, China (e.g. lumpia, bakso), and Europe; likewise, indigenous Indonesian dishes such as satay have spread throughout Asia, if not the world.

In all my years of eating, I don't think I've ever come across true Indonesian cuisine. Thus, when I heard that Cathy of Gastronomy Blog was organizing an Indonesian tasting, I jumped at the chance to attend. The food was to be provided by Ira's Gourmet, an Indonesian food specialist based out of Pasadena, run by Ira Sarnadi (say "ee-ruh" not "eye-ruh"). As one would imagine, most of Ira's customers are Indonesians longing for a taste of home cooking, so she was very excited about exposing the blogging community to the cuisine of her homeland.

The blogger turnout was one of the largest yet: Anjali of Delicious Coma, Connie of Hey Hey Scenesters!, Danny of Kung Food Panda, Diana of Diana Takes a Bite, Fiona of Gourmet Pigs, HC of L.A. and O.C. Foodventures, Jackie of Citynitz, Kate of Princess Kitty's Lala-Land, Marie of Starchy Marie, Neil of Food Marathon, Pam of Rants and Craves, Sook of Yutjangsah, Wesley (sans Evelina) of Two Hungry Pandas, and Weezermonkey (whew!).


Walking down a quaint residential street in Pasadena, I spotted the sign above, directing me to the festivities. However, the sign proved unnecessary, as the din of reveling bloggers easily guided me on the right path to Ira's backyard...


...Where I was greeted by our organizer Cathy, who was right on top of collecting the very reasonable fee of $10.



The food was served buffet style, and since I arrived somewhat late, and wanted to take photos, I was invariably stuck at the back of the line. Seating was provided under the awning, or out in the yard. Seeing as how it was 95°F, I wisely chose the awning.


As for booze, things were strictly BYOB, and I, embarrassingly, forgot to bring anything (Cathy was hoping for some Cristal). Thus, we first enjoyed Connie's Saison Dupont, a wonderful, fruity, zesty farmhouse ale from Brasserie Dupont (forgot to snap a photo). Anjali brought another beer, the Hitachino Nest Red Rice Ale, which I'd had once before at Coi in San Francisco; it was a sweet, nutty beer with a distinctly rice-tinged finish. Finally, HC provided "Pink," a 2008 Zweigelt Rosé from Austrian producer Kalmuck. As you'd expect, it was a light, refreshing wine, with some juicy berry flavors and a nice minerality as well--a proper, perfect potent potable for summer.


This was my first plate, served on a banana leaf. I'll run down each individual item down below. Note that there was also another dish, lemper, or banana leaf-wrapped sticky rice stuffed with chicken, that I somehow missed.


Telor Balado
This dish starts with a hard-boiled egg, which is then fried and topped with sambal balado (a tomato-based chili sauce with shallots and garlic). The frying action gives the egg a slightly tough exterior layer, but leaves the interior intact. The application of the balado provides a spiciness that offsets the somewhat monolithic heaviness of the egg--a nice balance of sweet, spicy, and salty.


Sambal Goreng Terong
This was fried eggplant, smothered in sambal, a sauce of chili, onion, garlic, and tomato. The rich, slightly bitter flavor of the eggplant was complemented by the spicy condiment, but I would've preferred the aubergines to have been crisper in consistency.


Bakmi Goreng
Looking at this dish, a stir fry of egg noodle with diced chicken, shrimp, meatballs, egg, and vegetables, it wasn't hard to guess its Chinese origin. The name, bakmi goreng, in fact, translates roughly to "fried rice vermicelli." Nevertheless, it was a great noodle dish, with a distinctive flair that takes it a notch above your typical vermicelli. I especially enjoyed the use of meatballs.


Empal
A dish of Javanese ancestry, empal is sweet fried beef, meat that is cooked in onion, garlic, palm sugar, tamarind, and coriander, then fried. The result is beef with a very pleasing sweetness, a bit of a zesty kick, and a tough exterior slightly reminiscent of carnitas. Quite nice.


Nasi Kuning
Nasi kuning literally means "yellow rice," and in fact, is rice cooked with coconut milk and turmeric, giving the staple a distinctly coconut-tinged flavor. Though tasty on its own, the rice is meant to be eaten with sambal trasi (a shrimp paste chili sauce with red/green chilies, onion, garlic, tomatoes, tomatillos, shrimp paste, and kaffir lime leaves) and the following three accoutrements:


Bacem Tempe
A popular item in Java, tempeh is cake of fermented whole soybeans, firmer and more flavorful than tofu. Here, it was cooked in onion, garlic, coriander, and sweet soy sauce (kecap manis), then fried. The result was a savory cake with an almost potato-like texture and a nicely caramelized exterior.


Bacem Tahu
Like the tempeh, the tofu was prepared in a similar fashion, cooked in an amalgam of onion, garlic, coriander, and sweet soy, and then fried. However, the tahu was a totally different experience, savory on the outside, but still possessing a soft, mild interior. It was nice to compare these two similar, yet so different interpretations of soybean.


Ayam Goreng
Finally, we come to my favorite item of the meal: Javanese-style fried chicken, more specifically, chicken cooked with a commixture of onion, garlic, lemon grass, candle nuts (kemiri), and turmeric, then fried. The end result was crisp, immensely flavorful, with an indescribable savory verve--simply one of the best preparations of fried chicken I've had. A whole bucket please!


Es Buah Pasadena
Dessert consisted of an assortment of watermelon, cantaloupe, and honeydew (the money melon) balls, in a syrup of coconut, condensed milk, and pandan leaves--a nice, refreshing interplay between creamy and fruity flavors that proved a fitting end to the meal.


The woman of the hour: nicely done Ira!


The menu of available items is shown above; click for larger versions. I'm told that a selection of three items for lunch, delivered in the Pasadena area, goes for $8.50. Orders can be placed via email at sarnadira{AT}yahoo.com.

Since this was my first experience with Indonesian cuisine, I can't really make a definitive judgment here, as I have no adequate basis for comparison. However, I can say that most everything I ate was quite tasty, and being introduced to this fare via "home cooking" was a pleasure and a treat, especially in the presence of fellow members of the local food community. Thanks again to Cathy for setting this up!

Twitter

Well, after relentless prodding by my fellow food bloggers, I finally signed up for a Twitter account. I'm not quite sure what I should tweet about though. At a minimum, I'll keep people abreast of new posts, but what else would make for good fodder?

See: http://twitter.com/kevin_eats

Sadly, http://twitter.com/kevineats was already taken.

Rivera (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

Rivera
1050 S Flower St, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213.749.1460
www.riverarestaurant.com
Sat 07/04/2009, 07:40p-10:00p



A few months ago, during a conference at the USC campus, I made my way down to John Rivera Sedlar's new pan-Latin eatery Rivera for lunch. I left with a pretty positive impression, but stated that: "before I pass final judgment on the place, I'd really like to return sometime to give the dinner menu a proper work out." Well here I was, back again to give Rivera a fitting go.


Outside, the restaurant, situated in the Met Lofts structure, is much the same as before. I didn't drive past the valet stand this time, though I did find out that parking's $10 if you stay over two hours ($5 otherwise).


This "panoramic" shot shows the full extent of Rivera's interior, consisting of the bar area, the banquet seating along the back wall (where we were seated this time), the communal table, and the ceviche bar (where I sat last time). Seating is unquestionably cozy along the wall, but did allow us to meet and converse with our fellow diners:

To our right were Elizabeth and Michael. Elizabeth is the sister of former Daniel (New York) Executive Chef Alex Lee, who we were told left the restaurant in 2003 to work at Glen Oaks Club in Old Westbury, in order to spend more time with his family. Lee, apparently, also served as a mentor to LA's own David Myers at one point. Michael is the owner of Zona Rosa Caffe in Pasadena's Playhouse District, and encouraged us to check out regional Italian eatery Cube Marketplace on La Brea and Melrose.

After Elizabeth and Michael left, we also spoke briefly with the couple to their right, Corinne Lander and her husband Alfred. Corinne works as a Foodservice Account Manager at Nancy Silverton's iconic La Brea Bakery. The duo recommended Fig Restaurant in Santa Monica, as well as Govind Armstrong's 8oz Burger Bar, which Alfred preferred to Adam Fleischman's Umami Burger.

Finally, to our left sat Leslie Patson and Marc Baumann. Leslie runs her own blog, Cozyland (her Rivera post is up too), while Marc heads up SEO consulting firm Max The Web.


The dinner menu bears close resemblance to the lunch version, albeit it is a bit more adventurous. Just as exciting as the food are the cocktails. Mixologist extraordinaire Julian Cox's drink menu changes with the seasons, and we were lucky enough to catch his latest selection, an intriguing spread of new creations and old classics. Click for larger versions.


Given the new cocktail list, we decided to forego wine and focus solely on mixed drinks. I opted to go with a Mint Julep (Bourbon, Mint, Sugar, Crushed Ice) [$14], the libation of choice for fine Southern gentlemen everywhere. In my years of drinking, I've actually never had one before, so I wanted to give this drink, which dates from the 1800's, a try. The bourbon was definitely present and apparent, providing bit of bite to the cocktail, but the liquor was softened by the sugar and mint, giving the drink a lively finish. My dining companion went with Rivera's Cup [$10], made from Blanco Tequila, Lime, and Cucumber. A refreshing concoction, the lime tempered the tequila quite nicely with its tartness, while the cucumber added a cool backdrop to the drink.


Tortillas Florales [$7.00] | Housemade Nixtimal Tortillas, "Indian Butter"
We started out with a deceptively simple "snack" of four small housemade nixtamal (dried corn kernels subject to an alkaline treatment) tortillas, tucked in a napkin and still warm, served with "indian butter," basically guacamole. The taste of tortilla was classic, simple, earthy, yet profound, heightened by the bits of flowers and chives pressed into its surface. Together with the silky-smooth, slightly spicy avocado, the duo made for an incredible pairing.


Caballito de Sopas Dobles [$2.00] | Two Latin Soups, Different Flavors, Different Temperatures
Next was a small vial of soup: a warm lobster bisque on the bottom, a chilled fennel-green apple soup up top. This was a fascinating experiment in disparate tastes and temperatures, resulting in an almost disconcerting sensation in my mouth, in which the alternating flavors and consistencies of the liquids intermixed and traded off with each other, ending with a long, lingering finish of lobster and fennel.


Bacalao Negro Fresco [$14.00] | Seared Black Cod, Serrano Ham Crisp
I had my infamous experience with bacalao last year at The Bazaar, and then a much better time with it this past April at Church & State, but this incarnation was different, it was bacalao fresco, which means it's unsalted and fresh. Here, the fish was served with salsa verde (puréed tomatillos), jícama, jamón serrano (a dry-cured Spanish ham), and a six-spice blend "gas mask." The fish itself was tender, oily, but mild in flavor. Thus, it was immensely pleasing to try the cod with its various accoutrements: the savory ham, the cool jícama, and my favorite, the robust salsa. Delicious--one of the best preparations of cod I've had yet.


Playa Bar Ceviche [$12.00] | Ahi Tuna, Serranos, Lime, Avocado
The cuts of tuna, served with jícama, avocado, lime, and serrano pepper, made for a straightforward ceviche. The delicate flavor of the tuna blended nicely with the creamy avocado, while the chili added a touch of heat to the amalgam. However, the jícama, though it added a crunchy element to the dish, was too distracting.


Chile Pasilla Relleno [$10.00] | Pickled Mild Chile, Burrata Cheese, Served Chilled
I'm pretty sure that the "mild chile" here was an ancho (dried poblano), which would explain the strong smoky-sweet smack of the pepper. Marinated in salt, sugar, and vinegar, the pepper's flavor was the key, as it was countered by the antithetical cool richness of the burrata, resulting in a enticing interplay of flavors. Note the paprika-stenciled version of that infamous sign on the I-5 near the Mexican border. While also making a somewhat political statement, it also added a nice bit of heat to the dish.


Cordero Vasco [$12.00] | Basque Lamb Chops, Chorizo, Piquillos, Olives, Capers
Moving on into the heavier dishes, we have next a duet of Basque lamb chops. The meat itself was nicely done: juicy, tender, flavorful. I was concerned that the lamb's powerful accompaniments would overwhelm it, but that simply wasn't the case; the lamb was always at center stage, but elevated by contrasting sweet/smoky flavors. In addition, a salad of frisée and spinach added some well-placed levity into the mix, with their keen bitterness and crisp texture. This was certainly one of the best preparations of lamb I've had in recent memory. Well done.


Cordorniz Cubana [$13.00] | Grilled Quail, Black Beans
Here was quail, done up with black beans and oyster mushrooms. The meat itself was immensely flavorful, rich, imbued with the pure essence of the mushrooms, with a strong lingering relish that just coats the mouth. My only concern were the beans, which possessed a sweet smokiness that was perhaps a bit too strong for the bird. Despite that, this was easily one of the best quails I've had in a while.


With our drinks drunk, we went for another round of cocktails. I again ordered up a classic, this time a Sloe Gin Fizz [$10], a mix of Sloe Gin (a sloe berry-flavored liqueur), Lemon, Sugar, Soda, and Egg White. It had a sweet, soft, viscous creaminess that I loved, heightened by a bit of egginess on the finish--excellent. My dining companion had a Strawberry Fields [$14], with Blanco Tequila, Velvet Falernum, and Strawberries. Again, as with the Rivera's Cup above, the tequila here was balanced deftly by the other ingredients, this time the obvious sweetness of the strawberry, but also the herbaceous, bracing flavor of the falernum (a type of syrup).


Maya Puerco Pibil Sous Vide [$24.00] | Banana Leaf Braised Pork Shoulder, Peruvian Potatoes
Also known as cochinita pibil ("buried baby pig"), puerco pibil is a traditional slow-roasted pork dish from the Mayan people of the Yucatán. The dish is typically done by roasting pork wrapped in banana leaf, but Rivera apparently chooses a sous vide method instead. The result is beyond reproach--one of the best preparations of pork I've ever had. The meat was a fantastic interaction of lean and fat, tender, yet with a great crisp exterior. Flavor-wise, the pork represented an expert amalgam of sweet and salty, delicate yet intense. The puerco came with potato (purple and sweet, with aji amarillo sauce), shallot, and radish, all of which provided contrast to the meat. The sheet of potato crisps, though, was a bit superfluous.


Olive Oil Cake [$8.00] | Strawberry, Crème Fraîche
Moving onto sweets, this first dessert was advertised as a special. It was an olive oil cake, with crème fraîche ice cream, caramel sauce, and a strawberry ménage à trois: sorbet, diced and marinated in balsamic, and candied. The cake itself was merely passable; what made this dessert was the interaction between the tanginess of the crème fraîche and sweetness of the berries, adding richness and excitement to an otherwise pedestrian cake. Much better than the olive oil cake at Osteria Mozza.


Baba Cachaca [$8.00] | Citrus, Dulce de Leche
My favorite of the dessert trio, this was sweet bread dipped in cachaça (in place of rum), then stuffed with crème fraîche and cara cara navel oranges. The baba cake itself was pure decadence, imbued with a luscious sweetness and only a hint of alcoholic tang. It was thus nicely balanced by the application of the cara caras, which tempered the baba's overt profuseness.


Estudio en Flan [$8.00] | Three Different Styles of the Classic Dessert, with Three Complementary Sauces
A progression of flans--light, medium, heavy--with three sauces--blackberry curry, lime-mint-pepper, strawberry-anise-orange. The first was very light, with strong hints of vanilla, akin to a panna cotta. It was actually too subtle, and thus the included curry sauce was absolutely crucial. Next was what you'd normally expect in flan, with a strong eggy component and just a hint of caramelized flavor; I was ambivalent about its peppery pairing. Finally, we come to my favorite, a very thickset, dense flan with a marked caramel component; the anise was superb in tempering its heaviness.

At the end of the meal, both my dining companion and I came to the same conclusion: Rivera far exceeded our expectations. Here, Sedlar has successfully married his classical training with his passion for pan-Latin cuisine to create an experience that is both exciting and profound: I can almost see why "The Notorious S.I.V." gave the place 3.5 stars.

Drago Centro (Los Angeles, CA)

Drago Centro
525 S Flower St, Los Angeles, CA 90071
213.228.8998
www.dragocentro.com
Wed 07/01/2009, 06:50p-09:45p



Drago Centro's chef patron Celestino Drago, a native of Sicily, first arrived on the LA dining scene in 1979, at age 22. This venerated, veritable veteran of victuals experienced his first major breakthrough in 1991, upon the opening of Drago Ristorante in Santa Monica. Its smashing success led to the founding of other restaurants in the Drago family, including Il Pastaio in Beverly Hills, Dolce Forno Bakery in Culver City, Enoteca Drago in Beverly Hills, and of course, the $7 million Drago Centro in Downtown Los Angeles (opened in 2008). This latest concept aims to reinvent traditional, local cuisine, the backbone of Italian gastronomy, by incorporating modern techniques and flourishes, representative of the culinary diversity of Italy.

The man in charge here is Ian Gresik, who started out as a Pastry Chef at Patina, eventually moving up to the position of Sous Chef. Following a stint as a food consultant, Gresik moved to Europe for a sabbatical, where he immersed himself in the culinary traditions of Italy, France, Greece, and Spain, after which he returned to LA, ready to head up the kitchen at Drago Centro.


Under the watchful eyes of a canyon of soaring skyscrapers, Drago Centro sits at National City Plaza in the heart of Downtown's Financial District, situated on the site of a former Bank of America.


Inside, the interior was transformed from a bank branch to its current glory by Stanley Felderman of Felderman Keatinge + Associates. Inspired by the Rialto Bridge and market in Venice, as well as artists Giorgio de Chirico and Giorgio Morandi, the space combines contemporary, metropolitan flair with the warmth of Italy. The expansive windows invite the surrounding architecture into the restaurant, while the arched ceilings, post-modernist art, stone walls, and a 15-ft high glass wine tower complete the look.


We decided to forego the six-course tasting menu [$75] and order à la carte. The menu, shown above, features an appealing selection of appetizers, pastas, and mains from which to choose from, though, predictably, the starters do tend to outshine the entrées; click for larger versions.


Not in a wine mood, we decided to start off with cocktails. I wanted something light, hence the Sotto Sopra [$12], comprised of Plymouth Gin, Massenez Crème de Pèche, Kiwi, and Fresh Lime Juice. It was indeed quite refreshing, as our server stated, with a sweet, tangy, fruity attack not unlike that of a tropical fruit punch, leading to a slightly hot finish. My dining companion chose the Centro [$12], a more serious drink made with Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Mirto Amaro, and Orange Bitters. It was a powerful concoction that was somewhat reminiscent of a Manhattan, with subtle orange hints over a strong backdrop of whiskey.


Bread service consisted of breadsticks, olive bread, and wheat bread (excellent), served with olive oil.


Amuse Bouche: Lobster Crostino
Amuse bouches consisted of a thin, crisp crostino topped with lobster in an apricot purée. The natural sweetness of the crustacean paired wonderfully with the sugariness of the stone fruit, finishing with a slight brininess. The toast, meanwhile, packed a great crunchy textural contrast.


Il Fegato d'Anatra [$16.00] | Foie Gras Crème Caramel, Arugula Purée
Think of this as a savory flan. Surprisingly, the flavor of the foie gras was more apparent in aroma than in taste. On the palate, the crème caramel was rather mild at first, with the foie's sapor intensifying with time, leading to a rather strong, lingering finish. The crisp bread and bitter arugula were key in tempering the gravitas of the liver.


Il Carpaccio di Capriolo [$16.00] | Venison Carpaccio, Walnuts, Sherry Vinaigrette
Carpaccio is usually a safe choice. Here, the venison proved delicious, though at the same time, it wasn't distinctive--you could've easy told me that it was beef. I appreciated the use of the greens (arugula?), which balanced out the richness of the meat and olive oil, but the walnuts, with their sweet nuttiness, were a bit too heavy-handed.


With our starters finished with, we moved onto the pasta. We ended up ordering three types, and the kitchen, knowing that we were planning to share, decided to serve the pasta as shown above, portioned out for the two of us.


I Garganelli [$17.00] | Garganelli, Pork Sausage, Parmesan, Fennel Seeds
I believe this may have been my first experience with garganelli, basically a tubular pasta rolled from a square egg noodle. Though it wasn't particularly unique (it could've just as easily have been penne), it did have a fantastic al dente bite to it, and did well in supporting the rest of the dish. The pork was key were; immensely flavorful, it had a subtle sweetness as well as a great fennel kick that reminded me of the fennel sausage pizza I'd had recently at Pizzeria Mozza. Very nice.


I Ravioli con Capesante [$18.00] | Shrimp Ravioli, Diver Scallop, Lemon, Chile
Next was shrimp ravioli, served with scallop. The ravioli were quite nice on their own, with the slight sweetness of the shrimp complemented by the sourness of lemon, with the chili providing a pleasing lingering spicy finish. The pasta could've stood on its own without the scallop, but the mollusk did add a complementary savoriness and weight to the dish.


Il Risotto "Vialone Nano" con Finferli e Gorgonzola [$19.00] | Risotto, Wild Mushrooms, Gorgonzola
The risotto was made from "Vialone Nano" rice, from the Veneto region of Italy. The short-grain rice is well-known for its ability to absorb flavor, and is a choice selection for risotto duty. The example here was extremely rich and creamy on account of the Gorgonzola, and was deftly balanced by the toothsome, earthy mushrooms. A very straightforward, but effective risotto.

With ours cocktails downed, we decided to do beers next, and fortunately, Drago Centro had a pretty comprehensive selection. We both did Belgians; I went for the Tripel Karmeliet [$9] from Brouwerij Bosteels, which showed tasty notes of citrus, barnyard, honey, and spice--the hallmarks of a great Tripel. My dining companion's Belgian was Brasserie de Rochefort's strong dark ale, the Trappistes Rochefort 6 [$10]. Another great beer, a combination of chocolate, fruit, yeast, and dark malt was the ticket here.


Il Branzino [$33.00] | Branzino, Gnocchi, Peppers, Scallion Purée
Branzino, or European seabass, is often served whole, so it was a fantastic change of pace to have the fish prepared tableside (saves me the trouble of dealing with the bones!). In the photo on the left, we see the fish being filleted by a rather nervous-looking server, under the watchful eye of who I believe must be his superior. In any case, the fish itself was superb, easily the best branzino I've ever had, with an intoxicating aroma, intensely saporous flesh with just a hint of pepper, excellent texture, and wonderfully savory skin. The accoutrements provided were key in balancing the relish of the fish, with the lettuce especially proving to be a fitting contrast.


As seen in the menu above (click for larger versions), desserts here are a bit more interesting than those at your typical Italian eatery.


I Formaggi [$22.00] | Chef's Selection of Five Italian Cheeses, Candied Pecans, Dried Apricots

• Provolone - One of the most well-known Italian cheeses, Provolone is a semi-hard cheese made from whole cow's milk. Here, it had a mild flavor with a light sweetness and subtle smokiness.
• Caciocavallo - Caciocavallo means "horse cheese," and anecdotally, it was originally made from mare's milk. Today, the milk is from sheep or cow, resulting in a musky, tart, strong-tasting cheese.
• Bianco Sardo di Moliterno - From Sardinia comes this sheep's milk cheese. It was rather mild, especially compared to the Caciocavallo, with a marked earthiness and herbaceousness intertwined with a delicate tang.
• Pecorino Foglie di Noce - Next was this pressed sheep's milk cheese from Tuscany, which is wrapped in walnut leaves and rubbed with olive oil, making for a dry, crumbly cheese with a slight nuttiness.
• Goat Cheese - Our final cheese was identified by our server as merely a "goat cheese;" I should've pressed him further. No matter, it was a very creamy one indeed, almost like cream cheese, with a light saltiness backed by a very pleasing zest. Immensely spreadable.

I Bomboloni [$9.00] | Doughnuts, Strawberries, Balsamic Reduction, Mascarpone Gelato
Looking at the dessert menu, this was the one item that we both knew we had to try. The reason? We were both thinking of the amazing doughnuts we had at our last excursion to CUT. Though the bomboloni didn't quite reach the loftiness of that experience, they were delicious nonetheless. The doughnuts themselves were appropriately dense, and covered in sugar, they would've been fantastic on their own. However, the counterpoint provided by the creamy gelato and tangy fruit proved very apt, while the use of basil added that extra touch to take the dish to the next level.


Closing out the meal were two cubes of raspberry gelée. Extraordinary rich and jammy, eating them was not unlike eating raspberry preserves.

There's no question that, with Drago Centro, Celestino takes Italian fare a step above the norm. And I can see why people say that Drago Centro has outshone its brethren, in the process giving Downtown its first serious Italian eatery. That being said, I can't say that I was exactly wowed by the experience. I think that that's a problem with me, as I've never been really blown away by any Italian place; for some reason, something about the food just seems inherently pedestrian. I guess I'm still waiting for that one transcendent Italian experience...