Frasca Food and Wine (Boulder, CO)

Frasca Food and Wine
1738 Pearl St, Boulder, CO 80302
303.442.6966
www.frascafoodandwine.com
Fri 01/29/2010, 05:50p-08:00p




After dining at Rioja in Denver the previous night, we were left wondering where we should venture to next. We queried Rioja's Executive Chef, Jennifer Jasinski, and she reassured us that Frasca was well "worth the drive" out to Boulder. And so it was.

Named after the rustic, local, convivial eateries of Italy, Frasca is the brainchild of Chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson and Sommelier Bobby Stuckey. The restaurant is firmly Italian in essence, but focused on the northeastern region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The area's proximity to Eastern Europe means that it's a place of immense culinary blending--the food takes cues from other parts of Italy, but also features influences from neighboring Austria and Slovenia. My first real exposure to the cuisine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia was at Pasadena's Trattoria Tre Venezie, where I enjoyed the meal that really began to change my perceptions of Italian food. I thus looked toward Frasca to push me along further in that journey. And of course, the fact that the restaurant was chosen as one of Gayot's Top 40 Restaurants in the US piqued my interest even further.

About the chef: Lachlan began his professional culinary career at the Old Warson Country Club in St. Louis, MO. He eventually moved to Paris in 1999, enrolling at the prestigious Ecole Grégoire-Ferrandi in order to obtain his Certificate d'Aptitude Professionnelle in the culinary arts. Lachlan apprenticed under Benoît Guichard at the legendary Jamin, the very place where Joël Robuchon first made a name for himself (Eric Ripert worked here early on, as well). Later, in 2000, the Chef moved to Pont-Aven, Brittany to work at Guy Guilloux's La Taupinière. The next year, Lachlan moved back to the States to join The French Laundry as a chef de partie. It was here that he would meet future business partner Bobby Stuckey (winner of James Beard's Outstanding Wine Service award), previously from Aspen's The Little Nell. In 2003, the duo moved to Colorado to create their version of an American frasca; the restaurant opened the following year to considerable critical acclaim.



The dining room is elegant, stylish even, but still recalls the warmth and friendliness of traditional Italian frascas. Diners should note the salumi bar off to one side, as well as the illuminated wine wall.


Frasca's seasonally-adjusted, locally-sourced menu aims to present the understated elegance of Friuli-Venezia Giulia cuisine. My preferred way to dine is to order the four-course Quattro Piatti [$68], and tack on a few supplements. Click for larger versions.


The wines by the glass list is short but sweet, focused heavily on Italian producers. Much appreciated is the offering of tajuts, basically half-glass portions of wine inspired by the tradition of drinking Tocai Friulano as an aperitif. Of course, there's also a more comprehensive list with over 200 bottles available. And although Frasca emphasizes the role of wine and cuisine, the restaurant does also offer an appealing assortment of cocktails. Click for larger versions.


And to start: a Widows Kiss [$12], with Busnel Calvados, Yellow Chartreuse VEP, Bénédictine, and Angostura Bitters. Described as an "essential winter cocktail," I loved its complex interplay of sweet, savory, and sour flavors.


Bread was a solitary filone, a traditional, everyday Italian variety, served with a quenelle of superb, sweetish butter.


"Frico Caldo" [$7.00]
To begin, we split an order of the restaurant's famous "Frico Caldo." Think of this as the best hash brown that you've ever had, sandwiched with a layer of Montasio cheese. It's Frasca's version of the frico, a classic Italian cheese crisp endemic to the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. I enjoyed the amalgam of rich, creamy cheese and starchy, firm bits of potato, perked up with a touch of onion and coriander. Simply superb--I could eat an entire plate!


Salumi [$16.00] | Prosciutto di San Daniele, Friuli, Italy; Speck, Alto Adige, Italy; Salame Biellese, Salumeria Biellese, New York, New York. Served with "Rafano" and "Grissini"
Our second shared course was this lovely smorgasbord of meat, all sliced in-house at the salumi bar. I started with the salami, a pork-based Piedmontese-style cured meat with a great, peppery kick. Next was the speck, the most strongly-flavored of the trio, imbued with a marked saltiness. The prosciutto, on the other hand, was softer and sweeter in savor. Finally, we had grissini (breadsticks), while the rafano referred to the accompanying creamy horseradish sauce.


Japanese Hamachi "Crudo" [$13.00] | Blood Orange, Pinenuts and Olive Oil
The first course of my "Cinque Piatti" was a crudo, a dish of raw fish first popular in Italy's seaside towns. The fish utilized here was our old sushi standby: yellowtail. I liked the use of pine nuts, with their nuttiness form a fitting foil to the slightly fatty, dense character of the hamachi. Meanwhile, I also appreciated the tartish sweetness conveyed by the citrus, and the weight imparted by the olive oil. Very nice.


New Caledonia Blue Prawns and P.E.I. Mussels "al Cartoccio" [$13.00] | Winter Vegetables and Lemon
Al cartoccio refers to a preparation in which food is cooked in paper. This really helped seal in the flavor of the mussels and prawns, resulting an intoxicating burst of briny aroma upon unwrapping the parchment! I adored how the natural sapor of the seafood was so deftly preserved, while the various vegetables really helped moderate the fish.


With my cocktail dispensed with, I turned to beer, specifically Birreria Pedavena's light, easy-drinking Dolomiti [$7], from Veneto.


"Riso di Valpolicella" [$20.00] | Red Wine and Montegrappa
For my pasta course, I went with a risotto (natch), one made with wine from Valpolicella and Montegrappa cheese from Veneto. As expected, the rice was cooked to proper al dente consistency, with the wine adding a slight tang to the lush creaminess imparted by the cheese.


Crispy Heritage Foods Duroc Pork Belly [$28.00] | Roasted Cabbage, Bacon and Celery Root "Crema"
And now, for the "main course," we have a fantastic preparation of pork belly. I loved the interplay between the tender, yet fibrous flesh and its delightfully crisp, savory "crust". The flavor was also spot on as well, and I appreciated the use of the tart cabbage to offset the pork. The celeriac, however, was not necessary. Definitely one of the best pork bellys I've had in a while.


A meal at Frasca just wouldn't be complete without some vino, so I ordered up two tajuts. First was the Domaine Wachau 2005 Gruner Veltliner "Achleiten," Wachau, Austria [$8], a crisp, mineral-laced wine with some juicy stone fruit and pepper notes. I also had the nicely dry and acidic Adami 2008 Prosecco di Valdobbiadene "Garbel 13," Veneto, Italy [$5].


"Bombolini" [$12.00] | Vanilla Bean Pastry Cream and Blood Orange Sorbetto
For dessert, I had the bombolini, basically fried bits of filled pastry--"doughnut holes," if you will. They were simply delicious, with a beautiful fried texture and an added luxuriousness courtesy of the vanilla cream. The sorbet, meanwhile, lightened things up with its bracing citrus smack.

So how did I enjoy my meal here? Very much, actually. Chef Mackinnon-Patterson really does the food of Friuli-Venezia Giulia justice here, effectively conveying the sense of rustic refinement inherent to Friulian cuisine. The flavors are straightforward, yet sophisticated, contemporary, yet true to the traditions of the region. I can understand why Frasca has received all the accolades that it has over the years--if I'm ever in the area again, I'd love to make a return visit.

Rioja (Denver, CO)

Rioja
1433 Larimer St, Denver, CO 80202
303.820.2282
www.riojadenver.com
Thu 01/28/2010, 09:10p-11:30p




Situated in the chic LoDo neighborhood of Downtown Denver, Rioja is the brainchild of Executive Chef Jennifer Jasinski and General Manager/Sommelier Beth Gruitch. Jasinski, a California native, began cooking at a young age. After working at a Taco Bell(!) and enrolling in the culinary program at Santa Barbara City College, she developed her interest into a tour at the Culinary Institute of America. Upon graduating, Jasinski worked under André Rene at New York's famed Rainbow Room, where she would meet her future mentor, Wolfgang Puck. The Chef eventually moved back to Los Angeles, landing a gig at the Hotel Bel Air; here, Jasinski would again cross paths with Puck, who was consulting for the hotel's restaurant at the time. Puck ended up referring Jasinski to Chef Jody Denton, who recruited her to open his new restaurant, Eureka, in LA.

Over the next 10 years, Puck would move Jasinski around his various restaurants: Postrio San Francisco, Spago Las Vegas, Granita Malibu, and the now-defunct Spago Chicago. He even arranged a stint at the three-star Michelin Ledoyen in Paris. After all this globetrotting, Jasinski decided to settle down in Denver in 2000. She became the Executive Chef at Northern Italian eatery Panzano, where she would meet future business partner Beth Gruitch (then the GM). In 2003, the duo left Panzano (taking along Sous Chef/Co-Owner Dana Rodriguez) to create their own restaurant venture with Jeff Hermanson of Larimer Square Associates; Rioja opened the following year. The restaurant quickly achieved critical acclaim, and its success allowed Jasinski and Gruitch to purchase Bistro Vendôme, a French bistro located across the street, in 2006.


Rioja's menu features a variety of Mediterranean-inspired fare, influenced by the bounty of local and seasonal ingredients. Click for larger versions.


To drink, I started with the Loca Hot [$10], made with Fresno pepper-infused Sauza tequila, Agavero liqueur, house made sour, and a splash of orange and lime. I loved its spicy, sweet, almost suan mei-esque sapor, finished with a delightful, lingering heat.


Our first round of bread consisted of a lavender sourdough and goat cheese-rosemary bread. Brioche was later offered.


Special: "naan" [$10.50] | cous cous, dates, cucumber, honey yogurt
I began the meal with a special, described by our server as a naan (Indian flatbread) dish. It was somewhat of a misnomer, as the bread was a bit too thick and lacked the consistency of proper naan. Nevertheless, the flatbread did go quite well with the cool cucumber and yogurt, which reminded me of raita. The dates, meanwhile, gave things a marked sweetness, and, along with the cous cous, added an apt Middle Eastern flair to the dish.


fresh bacon [$9.50] | cardamom spiced Kurobuta pork belly, Madras curry scented fresh garbanzo bean puree
Next was the belly of Kurobuta pork. Unabashedly fatty, amazingly tender, and brazenly decadent, it was all that you'd expect from a good pork belly, tempered by an accompanying chickpea purée. However, I did feel that the cardamom did render things a touch too sweet.


My second cocktail was the Ginger Fizz [$11], comprised of Jim Beam, Canton ginger liqueur, and ginger beer. It had a great, subtle, almost medicinal ginger tinge that reminded me somewhat of Chinese-style ginger tea.


hand made mozzarella [$9.50] | wrapped in smoked prosciutto, grilled bread, oven-dried tomatoes, arugula, green olive pistou
A classic, but effective interplay of flavors here: the mozzarella itself was very good, with a light, salty creaminess that was superbly balanced by the smoky, savory prosciutto. At the same time, the tomatoes added a distinct sweetness to the dish, while the whole amalgam was perked up by the astringency of arugula.


paella gnocchi [$12.00] | rice crusted saffron gnocchi, PEI mussels, Hawaiian blue prawn, calamari, orange scented chicken sausage, artichoke hearts, smoked paprika tomato broth
The "paella" aspect of the dish instantly piqued my interest. I loved how the essence of the seafood was preserved here--the prawn, squid, mussels, all were wonderfully distinct, yet well-integrated in a briny mélange. But as good as the seafood was, my favorite item here was actually the delightful chicken sausage.


Desserts come courtesy of Pastry Chef Eric Dale. Click for larger versions.


coconut mango risotto "stack" [$7.00] | Thai sticky rice napoleon, crisp tuiles, fresh mango slices, coconut sorbet
On our first dessert, I really appreciated the subtly saccharine, ricey goodness of the "stack," and how that played with the distinct, juicy sweetness of the fruit. Very nice.


chilled s'mores pot de crème [$7.00] | chocolate custard, house made graham crackers, brûléed house made marshmallow
Think of your classic campfire treat, but refined. The sugariness of the chocolate was nicely tempered here by the melty marshmallows, and I liked the subtle spice of the crispy graham crackers. The only problem was that the marshmallow could get a bit overwhelming at times.

Though I found the fare here far from perfect, I liked the Mediterranean tinge of the victuals, imbued with simple, but effective flavor combinations. The food is largely vivid, balanced, and interesting--no wonder Rioja is one of Denver's hottest reservations.

Oyamel (Washington, DC)

Oyamel
401 7th St NW, Washington, DC 20004
202.628.1005
www.oyamel.com
Sun 01/24/2010, 04:15p-05:30p




Every year, millions of monarch butterflies leave their homes in the US and Canada and migrate south, spending their winter in Michoacán, a state in central Mexico. Upon arriving, the butterflies seek refuge in the oyamel tree, a "sacred" fir native to the region. They swarm the oyamel forest en masse and shroud the trees in thin, undulating veils of amber, an awesome sight to behold. Such is the inspiration behind Oyamel, José Andrés' pan-Mexican eatery.

Prior to the restaurant's debut, Andrés embarked on numerous visits to Mexico, even meeting with noted Mexican cuisine expert Diana Kennedy at her home in Michoacán, in order to better understand the vast culinary heritages--pre-Hispanic, colonial, contemporary--of the country. Oyamel opened its doors in October 2004, not in DC, but in Arlington, VA. It wasn't until January 2007 that Oyamel relocated across the Potomac to Downtown's Penn Quarter (in a space formerly occupied by another Mexican eatery, Andale). Interestingly, the old Oyamel space was eventually taken over by Roberto Donna's Bebo Trattoria (which has since shuttered).

Oyamel is currently helmed by Chef de Cuisine Joe Raffa, along with Sous Chefs Luis Montesinos, Omar Rodriguez, and Georgi Yanev. It was Yanev who came out to greet us on this particular night, which, coincidentally, happened to be his very last with the restaurant. Yanev is, in fact, moving to LA to work at Andrés' Saam/The Bazaar--I'll be sure to look out for him next time I'm there.


Crafted by design firm Adamstein & Demetriou, Oyamel's interior space is fun, festive, and inviting, shaded in hues of monarch orange. The ceiling is home to oversized metallic butterflies, which flutter overhead in two giant swarms, a more obvious nod to the source of the restaurant's name. One side of the room houses the bar, while the other features the main dining area, as well as the six-seater ceviche stand. In the back, there's a more sedate, more formal red-hued dining room, which can be used for private events.


The menu features a wide array of graze-friendly Mexican-inspired fare, mostly in small antojito-sized portions meant for sharing--think Mexican tapas. Click for larger versions.


Cocktails, natch, to drink. I went with Oyamel's Ponche [$8.50], the restaurant's twist on the traditional Mexican libation, made with white wine, Siembra Azul, Patron Citronage, Partida agave nectar, and a blend of tropical fruits. It was a delicious, refreshing, fruity, saccharine concoction that recalled sangria. My dining companion had the Mexican Gin and Tonic [$11], comprised of Bombay Sapphire gin, Q-Tonic, cilantro, epazote, orange peel, and a dash of elderflower liqueur--think of your standard G&T, but with added layers of complexity thanks to the citrus, epazote, and elderflower.


We were quickly brought the ubiquitous combination of chips and salsa. Oyamel's tortilla chips, seasoned with chiles, salt, and tequila, were tasty, but unremarkable. The salsa was far more interesting; made with chipotle chiles, onions, and tomatoes, it was much smokier that your typical condiment. Refills of either chips or salsa can be purchased for $2 a pop.


Guacamole [$13.00]
One of Oyamel's most well-known dishes is its guac, and for good reason. Created tableside from an amalgam of green tomatillo, serrano chile, onion, and crumbled queso fresco, it was easily one of the best versions I'd ever had. I loved how everything just worked together so seamlessly--the spicy kick of the chile, the weight of the cheese--it was fantastic.


Ceviche de Marlin Azul con Toronja y Coriandro [$12.00]
The first of our two ceviches was based on Hawaiian blue marlin, a fish that I don't see on menus all that often. Served in rolled form, and accompanied by suprêmes of grapefruit, coriander, serrano chile, and mint, it was a light, bright dish that really perked up my taste buds. The delicate, clean sapor of the marlin went surprisingly well with the sweetness of the fruit, while the chile added delightful pricks of heat into the equation, tempered by the sprigs of mint.


Ceviche Verde "El Bajio" [$10.50]
Next up was a wahoo ceviche (inspired, apparently, by El Bajio restaurant in Mexico City), with avocado, tomatillo, green olives, and jalapeños. This was a weightier presentation of fish, with the firm, dense wahoo playing beautifully with the luxuriousness of the avocado. The jalapeños, meanwhile, added some levity to things, making for quite a stellar dish overall.


Trucha Alpina a la Plancha en Mole Verde de Cacahuate Estilio Pánuco [$11.00]
Hailing from the city of Pánuco, Veracruz, our first cooked course was the grilled Arctic char, served with a mole of peanuts, tomatillo, and green chiles. Here, I really enjoyed the fish's delightfully rare flesh, fantastically crisp skin, and how its oily, briny, salty essence was not only preserved, but highlighted. The char was delectable on its own, but the nutty, zesty mole was a superb complement.


Cordoniz con Sikil P'ak [$10.00]
This was grilled quail with an ancient Mayan sauce of toasted pumpkin seeds, cilantro, tomato, and habanero chile, stuffed with a cactus salad. I couldn't help but compare this to the quail dish I had not too long ago at Rivera. The bird itself was superbly done--flavorful, tender, and succulent--just like at Rivera. Its accoutrements, however, were what made it better: the interaction between the quail, the earthy sikil p'ak, and the zesty cactus was phenomenal.


Costillas de Res con Salsa Verde [$9.50]
The last course before our taco gauntlet was this chunk of slow-braised beef short rib, with a green sauce of cilantro, parsley, and garlic. As a good preparation of braised beef should be, the rib was demonstrably soft, yet slightly fibrous, making for a fabulous chew. Its taste was characteristically beefy, dark, and delicious, beautifully countered by the light, piquant sapor of its accompanying salsa verde.


Lengua Guisada [$3.50]
First up was tongue: braised beef tongue with radishes and a sauce of roasted pasilla chili, tomatoes, onion, and garlic. I found the meat surprisingly tender, and subtle in flavor. The key here, thus, was the taco's earthy, yet delicate dressing, a superb complement to the beef.


Carnitas con Salsa de Tomatillo [$4.00]
This was confit of baby pig with green tomatillo sauce, pork rinds, onions, and cilantro. Tender bits of pork here, served with a creamy, subtly spicy sauce. I really appreciated the crunch added by the pork rinds.


Cabrito a la Barbacoa [$4.00]
Cabrito refers to goat meat, here specifically, Shenandoah Valley goat marinated in guajillo chiles and spices, served with sweet onions and cilantro. I quite enjoyed cabrito's prototypically gamey flavor, wonderfully balanced by the veggies, as well as its tender consistency.


Pescado Mexicana [$4.00]
Next we have Oyamel's version of the omnipresent fish taco, with salsa Mexicana and a cilantro pesto. Think light, mildly-flavored fish, perked up by a tangy pico de gallo.


Cochinita de Pibil con Cebolla en Escabeche [$3.50]
This was my favorite of the sextet, a taco of Yucatan-style pit barbecued pork, with pickled red onion and Mexican sour orange. The slow-roasted meat really possessed a profound depth of flavor, beautifully cut by the unabashed tartness of the pickled onion.


Chapulines [$5.00]
And here we have what we came for: chapulines, the legendary Oaxacan specialty of sautéed grasshoppers, served with shallots, tequila, and guacamole. The 'hoppers had a fascinating flavor: simultaneously smoky, sour, salty, and earthy, all with a bit of raisin-y sweetness. Not fantastic, but certainly not offensive either.


Passion Fruit Soup
Desserts, in addition to the tacos, were comped, courtesy of Chef Yanev. The first was a cold passion fruit soup, with yogurt ice cream and mint. It was a light, refreshing dish, with the richness of the ice cream forming a fitting foil to the bracingly sweet soup.


Coffee Ice Cream
Finally, we were given a coffee ice cream, topped with lime zest, and accompanied by toasted bananas, espresso powder, and cookie crumbles. I'm no fan of coffee, but I certainly didn't mind this dessert. The bananas didn't quite make sense to me, but I did like the zestiness imparted by the lime, as well as the crunchy texture provided by the crumbles.

Overall, I quite enjoyed my time at Oyamel. One may complain that the food is too gentrified, and it may be, but the flavors here really work for me--largely light, bright, and bold, with pronounced hints of acid and spice to cut through and complement heavier, darker notes. If I lived in DC, I could see myself making this a return-worthy destination.

Central Michel Richard (Washington, DC)

Central Michel Richard
1001 Pennsylvania Ave NW, Washington, DC 20004
202.626.0015
www.centralmichelrichard.com
Sat 01/23/2010, 05:10p-06:40p




Originally, dinner was supposed to be at Bryan Voltaggio's Volt, up in Frederick, Maryland. Plans fell through, however, and I was left wondering where to go. The previous night, I'd had a positive experience at Citronelle, and based off the strength of that dinner, Michel Richard's other restaurant, Central, was the answer.

Opened in early 2007, Central is Chef Richard's casual dining concept, an ode to classic American cuisine, intermixed with a dash of French bistro panache. Since debuting, Central has firmly established itself as a force in the DC culinary scene, even winning the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in 2008. Initially, Richard had tapped Cedric Maupillier to fill the Chef de Cuisine post, a role that he performed admirably. However, earlier this year, Maupillier announced that he was leaving on amicable terms, ostensibly to start his own restaurant. Filling Maupillier's shoes is the 29-year-old Arthur Cavaliere, former Executive Chef at Stephen Starr’s Parc brasserie in Philadelphia.


Prior to dinner, we enjoyed some cocktails in Central's lounge. I had The Social [$11], comprised of Old Overhold Rye, Carpano Sweet Vermouth, Aperol, Cointreau, and Orange Bitters; think of your classic Manhattan, but made even better by delectable, complex citrus flavors. My dining companion went with the Pear 20 [$11], made with Gosset Champagne, Belle De Brillet, and Pear Nectar; sweet, fruity, and refreshing, I likened it to a pear Bellini.


Central's dining room is clean, comfortable, awash in earthy tones and light wood, and anchored by a see-through glass wine cellar.


The carte here is a blend of French and American classics, imbued with Richard's signature touch. Click for larger versions.


The bread here, a crusty, flaky sourdough, was very similar (perhaps identical?) to that at Citronelle.


With our cocktails dispensed with, we decided upon some beer. I went with the fizzy, malty, Blusser Pilsner [$5 for 8oz] from Belgium's Brouwerij Het Anker. Meanwhile, my dining companion had Brouwerij Bavik's Wittekerke Wit [$7], a delightfully tangy white beer.


Half Dozen Fresh Shucked Oysters [$16.00]
We began with some oysters, served with lemon, mignonette, and cocktail sauce. From smallest to biggest: first up were the Kusshis, characteristically clean, sharp, and briny, excellent with a touch of citrus. Next we had the Hama Hamas, which were milder, but meatier in complexion. Last up were with Penn Coves, with were quite soft, with a lovely, sweet savor. Overall, a very strong presentation of oysters.


Duck Rillettes & Faux Gras Terrine [$15.00]
Rillettes refers to a dish of slow-cooked, shredded meat, blended with fat to form a paste-like pâté. The version here utilized duck, and was wonderfully salty and full of flavor, with a fantastically fibrous texture. As good as that was, the so-called "faux gras" was even better. Made with chicken liver, it had a superbly subtle, yet profound sapor, finished with a perfect peppery tang. In fact, I actually preferred it to most real foie gras terrines I've had!


Cheese Puffs (Gougères) [$7.00]
Every time I have gougères at a restaurant, I'm left wanting more--well here I finally got to have my fill! They were delicious, as expected, a great mix of a flaky pastry crust and a filling of creamy, luscious cheese.


Salad Frisee, with Lardons, Poached Egg [$13.00]
I'm not a huge salad eater, but this classic frisée salad is one that I always like to make room for. The amalgam of creamy egg, salty lardons, and airy frisée was suitably scrumptious, a great commixture of disparate flavors and fibers. This compared quite favorably to versions that I'd had recently at Bouchon and The Tasting Kitchen.


Frog's Legs [$14.00]
Cooked with garlic and herbs, the frog legs really did "taste like chicken," (not necessarily a bad thing, mind you). I quite enjoyed the interplay of the savory frog with the frisée and tangy "coleslaw," but I did find the BBQ sauce a tad too sugary.


Tartare of Filet Mignon and French Fries [$15.00]
Steak tartars often let me down, but I'm happy to report that Central's version was easily one of the best preparations I've ever had. I loved its soft, savory consistency, and its delicate, yet focused flavor, tinged with a bit of spicy goodness. And the herb and garlic frites? Perfection.


For our second round of beers, I went with the marvelously fruity-spicy Gouden Carolus Triple [$9], also from Het Anker (the maker of the Blusser above). My dining companion chose a Belgian as well: Brouwerij Van Honsebrouck's excellent Brigand Ale [$8].


Mushroom Pearl Pasta Risotto [$14.00]
Regular readers will know that I'm somewhat of a risotto slut, and I have a hard time not ordering the rice dish if it's on the menu. The version here was suitably creamy and cheesy, rich with dark, heavy, earthy flavors of mushroom. The only real problem was that the pasta globules were a bit too dense and chewy for me (with an almost a tapioca-esque body).


Fried Chicken with Mashed Potato [$21.00]
Our final savory course was Richard's take on the comfort food classic, fried chicken. It was definitely one of the tenderest, juiciest versions I've had, with a great, light herbal tang. I quite liked the pommes purée as an accompaniment, while the greens added a nice vegetal component. Unfortunately, some parts of the bird were over-battered, rendering those areas a touch tough.


Tropical Meringue [$9.00]
Despite being rather full at this point, we soldiered on with dessert. The first was a fruity meringue, with flavors of mango, kiwi, and coconut. I appreciated the contrast between the soft and crisp portions of meringue, as well as the refreshing relish of the mint.


Michel's Chocolate Bar [$9.00]
Next up was Michel Richard's signature sweet, his oft-lauded, oft-imitated "Kit Kat Bar." Composed of layers of chocolate crème, crushed hazelnut, and crisp wafer, the dessert was a simple, but masterful presentation of tastes and textures, one with a flavor reminiscent of Ferrero Rocher!

I walked out of Central immensely sated, and immensely satisfied. Michel Richard has done a near-perfect job of joining classic American cuisine with the verve of French tradition. In the process, he's made the experience here familiar, comfortable, yet modern, refreshing, and remarkably delicious.

Citronelle (Washington, DC)

Citronelle
3000 M St NW, Washington, DC 20007
202.625.2150
www.citronelledc.com
Fri 01/22/2010, 06:05p-09:40p




Years ago, when I was just starting to get interested in food, I happened to be in Washington DC for business, and had the opportunity to dine at Michel Richard's Citronelle. That dinner was, at the time, arguably the best meal I'd ever eaten. But since those were my pre-blogging days, the details of what I ate have been lost to time. As such, I was eager to return, and another work-related trip to DC provided the perfect opportunity.

Michel Richard's culinary journey began when he was only a child, after catching a glimpse of the magic and mystery of a restaurant kitchen. He began his formal training at age fourteen, when he apprenticed as a pâtissier at a restaurant in Reims, Champagne. Three years later, the Chef moved to Paris, where he established his reputation working under the legendary pastry chef Gaston Lenôtre. In 1975, Richard relocated to the US, first helming Lenôtre's short-lived Chateau France in New York before landing in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Although he achieved some success there, operating a small restaurant called The French Pastry Shop at La Fonda Hotel, he eventually found the city stifling, and moved to Los Angeles in 1977. In LA, Richard opened his eponymous pâtisserie--Michel Richard--to resounding success. This allowed him to perfect the savory side of things over the next ten years, and the Chef eventually partnered with Marvin Zeidler to debut Citrus (at the location of the new Hatfield's) in 1987. Citrus blended traditional French methods with California flair, and achieved near-instant acclaim.

Then, in 1991, Richard opened the first Citronelle at the Santa Barbara Inn Hotel. Empire building continued, and the Chef went on to open Bistro M in San Francisco, Citronelle in Baltimore, Citronelle in Philadelphia, and, in 1994, Citronelle in Washington DC at The Latham Hotel; he even owned a stake in Santa Monica's Broadway Deli (in a partnership with Zeidler and restaurateur Bruce Marder of Capo fame). At this point, he was stretched too thin, and thus, in 1997, Richard decided to focus solely on the DC restaurant, divesting his stake in his other eateries. However, the desire to expand would rise once again, and in early 2007, Richard opened Central, a bistro concept, also in DC. The same year, he would debut Citronelle at Carmel Valley Ranch (shuttered after the hotel was sold in 2009), and revive the Citrus name at the ill-fated Citrus at Social in LA.

Richard, of course, doesn't do much cooking these days. For that, he leaves it up to his Executive Chef, David Deshaies, who toqued at Hotel Pralong in Courchevel, France, Restaurant Ses Rotges in Mallorca, Spain, and La Cote Saint Jacques in Joigny, France before starting at Citronelle in 2005. Rounding out the team are Pastry Chef Mark Courseille (Le Paradou, Hôtel Le Saint-James in Bouliac, La Buvette in Bordeaux), Sommelier Kathryn Morgan (2941 Restaurant, Ristorante Tosca, Occidental Grill), and affable Maître D' Jean-Jacques Retourné (the former head of l'Ermitage and Citrus in LA, who's been with Chef Richard for over 30 years).


Inside, things are tame, perhaps a touch tedious, but refined, draped in shades of maize. One side of the room is dominated by the luminance of the exhibition kitchen; a giant mirror covers another. Private rooms are also available.


Menu options include a three-course prix fix at $105, or the nine-course Promenade Gourmande at $190 (plus $90 for wine). Click for larger versions. At one time, an even grander degustation was available, but apparently, it was removed because it was simply too much food.


To start, I reverted back to my old ways and ordered up a Bubbly Mojito [$13], with Rum, Champagne, Mint, and Lime; it was basically your typical mojito, but with the addition of carbonation. My dining companion's drink, the Parisian Sidecar [$18], was much more interesting. Composed of Hennessy Cognac, Cointreau, and Lemon Juice, I described it as "adult orange juice," noting its strong body of citrus, back by just a hint of brandy.


Bread service consisted of a solitary sourdough, served with salted (circle) and unsalted (triangle) butters.


1: AMUSE BOUCHE
Champagne Moutardier Brut "Carte d'Or," France
To start, four beguiling bites were brought about. Right to left, we have:

• Mini Crab Cake - A classic interplay between the salty, savory crab and its sweet aioli condiment.
• Ratatouille Taco - A tangy, refreshing, almost salsa-like amalgam of various veggies, wrapped in a "taco shell."
• Smoked Salmon with Basil Oil - The intense, almost "hammy" savor of the salmon was lightened nicely by the application of basil.
• Jicama Crepe with Potato and Prosciutto - I loved how I was hit first by the cool crispness of the jicama, with the fantastic weight of "potato salad" coming in later.

2: CHESTNUT SOUP
Next up was an admixture of mushroom, shallot, dried foie gras, and peanut butter-foie gras flan, to which a chestnut soup with foie gras and duck jus was added. Flavors here were hearty, dark, with strong earthy and nutty notes--"tastes like winter."


Supplement: FOIE GRAS ROULADE | sweet spices
Our first of two supplemental courses was this disk of foie gras pâté, encircled by a layer of fruit chutney, then circumscribed by a ring of carrot-ginger emulsion. As expected, the foie itself showed off its characteristic tastes and textures in droves. The chutney, meanwhile, acted as an almost too sweet counterpoint to the liver, while the emulsion added a piquant temper.


3: NANTUCKET BAY SCALLOPS | celery
Savennires, Domaine Jo Pithon, France 2004
Scallops were up next. Buttery, savory, and naturally sweet on the finish, the bivalves were nicely balanced by the celeriac reduction and the greens. However, I really would've liked to have seen large scallops here, so I could better appreciate their texture.


4: COBIA | vegetable tart, lobster-saffron broth
Vin de pays d'Herault, Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc, France 2007
Cobia is a relatively uncommon fish on menus, and the last time that I had it was at Sage in Las Vegas. As usual, the fish was firm, flaky, and stupendously savory, with a delightfully crisp skin. I loved how the cobia's brininess was preserved here, and how the various veggies--zucchini, carrot, pearl onion--helped in moderating its power. The broth, meanwhile, with its almost buttery lobster bisque-like sapor, was delicious on its own, and I eagerly mopped up the excess with bits of sourdough.


5: LOBSTER BURGER
Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Patrick Miolane, France 2007
Upstairs, in the Lounge, diners have a choice of a variety of burgers, the most luxurious of which is the lobster burger seen here. Constructed with scallop and tomato confit, it was very, very good. I really appreciated how the sweet-briny essence of the crustacean was highlighted, and how its texture was soft, snappy, spot-on. I wanted a full size version! Meanwhile, the accompanying potato chips, fried in clarified butter, were easily the most decadent example I'd ever had.


Supplement: LOBSTER "BEGULA" PASTA
Our second add-on was Michel's famous faux caviar. The "Begula," an accidental misspelling of "Beluga" that the Chef found amusing, consists of squid ink pearl pasta over a layer of lobster and egg. The "roe" was nicely firm, with a mild flavor that did a fantastic job in countering the luxuriousness of the lobster. And what a lobster! Incredibly buttery and rich, the crustacean was elevated even further by the use of runny egg yolk, while bits of toast added some textural play. Classic flavors, but superbly done.


6: LAMB | rack, raw-cooked vegetables, jalapeno-cumin sauce
Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Jean Michel Guillon, France 2006
Sure, the lamb was perfectly done, wondrously toothsome with that signature "lamby" flavor. And the potato, sunchoke, and zucchini were also great garnishes to the dish. It was, however, the jalapeño-cumin condiment that made this one of the best lamb dishes I'd ever had. The sauce, quite simply, with its simultaneously spicy and earthy savor, was the perfect complement to the gaminess of the lamb. Astounding.


7: SHORT RIB | prime, braised 72h, raisin-peppercorn sauce
Château Olivier, Grand Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan, France 2003
Our final savory was Michel's signature dish, a slab of sous vide beef short rib, drizzled with an Armagnac-raisin-peppercorn sauce, with sides of tater tots, rutabaga, carrot, and zucchini. It was amazing, one of the best pieces of beef to ever touch my palate, in fact. Texturally, the short rib was fantastically tender, but still had a bit of fibrousness to it. In terms of taste, the meat was positively teeming in bovine sapor, while the peppercorn really made its mark on the close, imbuing the dish with an almost beef jerky-like finish!


8: CHEESE | imported & domestic
Shiraz, "Laughing Magpie", d'Arenberg, Australia 2007
As for fromage, four types of cheese were presented, served with raisin-pistachio bread. Left to right:

• Gorgonzola - The famous Italian bleu cheese. Soft, creamy, and salty, with that prototypical blue tang.
• Camembert - From Normandy, this cheese was delightfully soft, with a rich, nutty, grassy flavor that I rather liked.
• Leonara - From Spain, this was a tangy tasting goat cheese with a soft, creamy, mouth-filling consistency.
• Petit Basque - A semi-firm, relatively mild sheep's milk cheese from the Basque region of France.

9: EGGS-CEPTIONAL LEMON MERINGUE
A pre-dessert course consisted of a faux egg, replete with "nest." In reality, what we had was a "yolk" of lemon meringue, with a white chocolate shell and cookie crumbles. Eaten together, the whole thing tasted like a lemon tart.


10: PEAR CHOCOLATE TART
Moscato d'Asti, "Sourgal", Elio Perrone, Italy 2007
We closed with a sort of cookie cake, served with pear and pear meringue, topped with vanilla ice cream. The interplay of the chocolate and the fruit was surprisingly good, with the pear tempering some of the chocolate's sweetness, while the tart contributed a fabulously crunchy texture.


11: PETITS FOURS
A plate of petit fours: chocolate-hazelnut bar, raisin madeleine, chocolate covered grape, chocolate cookie. All quite delicious.


Following our meal, we were brought into the kitchen. Above, we see the pass, as well as the Chef's Table. Initially, we'd wanted this vantage point, but the Chef's Table at Citronelle requires at least six people, and starts at $350 per person for a 10-course meal matched with wine.

My return to Citronelle, thankfully, was nearly flawless. The magic, the mystery, the playful whimsy, all of that was on the plate, combined with Richard's brilliant take on contemporary French cuisine. Though Citronelle may not be the best meal I've ever had at this point, it's not too far off.

The Inn at Little Washington (Washington, VA)

The Inn at Little Washington
Main St & Middle St, Washington, VA 22747
540.675.3800
www.theinnatlittlewashington.com
Thu 01/21/2010, 07:30p-11:00p




The scene above was captured en route to The Inn at Little Washington, our destination 70 miles outside of DC proper. We braved sub-freezing temperatures, single lane roads in the dark, and blustery snowstorms, but we finally did make it--this place had better be good!

The Inn at Little Washington is inextricably tied to its Chef and Owner, one Patrick O'Connell. A native of the Washington DC area, the self-taught chef started his culinary journey at the age of fifteen, working as a short-order cook at a neighborhood restaurant in Clinton, MD. Later, while pursuing his undergraduate degree in drama from the Catholic University of America, O'Connell waited tables, his first foray to the front-of-the-house. It was also here where the Chef would meet future business (and romantic) partner Reinhardt Lynch. In 1972, O'Connell and Lynch started a catering business, run out of a 100-acre farm in the Shenandoah Valley.

Six years later, in early 1978, the duo debuted The Inn at Little Washington in a small ramshackle "garage," with O'Connell in the kitchen and Lynch running operations. The restaurant achieved critical acclaim from the get go, and eventually, guest rooms were added to the property. Everything seemed to be going swimmingly for the pair, that is, until 2006. In that year, O'Connell and Lynch's personal relationship soured, and the two went to court to break up the business. According to The Washington Post, the Chef ended up taking out a $17.5 million loan in order to buy out Lynch's 50% stake in The Inn and related properties.


Putting the drama aside, here we see the main dining room. Enveloped in shades of crimson and flax, the 30-table, Victorian-inspired space is classic, luxurious, romantic.


O'Connell's cuisine can be thought of as contemporary American, interlaced with regional, "farm-to-table" touches. His commitment to local suppliers is legendary, and the Chef even dedicates an entire page in the menu to them. Options include a three-course prix fix at $148 per person, or a seven-course tasting menu for $188 (plus $100 for wine)--going for the degustation should be a no brainer for most. Of course, being gluttons (for punishment), we tacked on three additional courses, which added an extra $59 per person. Click for larger versions.


Above, we see the rather verbose (and whimsically historical) cocktail menu. Click for larger versions.


To start, I decided upon the Library of Congress [$15], comprised of tobacco-infused Elijah Craig Bourbon blended with maraschino liqueur, sage bitters, and tonic. The drink was somewhat reminiscent of a classic Manhattan, but with a not unpleasant tobacco tint. My dining companion ordered up Alexander on the Ganges [$15], made with Hendrick's Gin and flavors of cucumber, coriander, lime, yoghurt, and dill. The menu likened the cocktail to raita (an Indian yogurt condiment), but it didn't quite get there for me, tasting more like a standard cucumber martini.


Two types of bread were on offer: a nicely seasoned French baguette, and a lovely sweet-savory pecan-currant rye topped with kosher salt.


Canapés
A small tray of four little bites was subsequently brought out. However, given that there were two of us at the table, I'm left wondering why we weren't provided one plate per person. Back to front:

• Red Wine Risotto Ball - Hearty, dark flavors were joined by the creamy cheesiness of risotto--I wanted a bigger ball!
• Beet Purée with Cranberry and Horseradish - Loads of jammy, sweet flavors here in an airy, ethereal package, tinged with just a hint of horseradish.
• Rock Shrimp with Guacamole and Red Pepper Remoulade - I loved the tanginess of the guac and how it worked with the natural sweetness of the shrimp, while the red pepper gave the bite a great lingering, spicy finish.
• Lamb Carpaccio with Hummus - I didn't get to try this unfortunately. My dining companion, however, seemed to enjoy it well enough.

Amuse Bouche: Apple-Rutabaga Soup with Gougère
I first tried the soup, which was sweet and hearty, almost bisque-like in velvety richness. The gougère, on the other hand, was nicely cheesy, with a somewhat flakier consistency than usual. Although both elements on the plate were successful individually, I'm not sure that I understand the linkage between the two.


1: A Tin of Sin: American Ossetra Caviar with a Crab and Cucumber Rillette
Haton et Fils, Champagne, Blanc de Blancs, Cuvée René Haton, Damery, Premier Cru, Brut, France (N.V.)
We began with my favorite course of the night: a tin filled with caviar, over a crab and cucumber "salad." Eating all the elements together, I really appreciated the interaction between the sweet, soft bits of peekytoe crab and the focused brine of the caviar. The cucumber, at the same time, gave the dish an overarching coolness, as well as a lovely crunch. Perfect.


2: A Quartet of Island Creek Oyster Slurpees
Bodegas O'Ventosela, Ribeiro, Gran Leiriña, Galicia, Spain (2008)
Four large-ish oysters, with four different accoutrements. From right to left:

• Tequila and Passion Fruit - My favorite. I loved the sweetness of the fruit, matched by the woodiness of the tequila, and how both elements worked with the subtly salty mollusk.
• Cucumber - This was also wonderful. The cool cucumber was superb in balancing the brine of the oyster, while the finish was imbued with a lingering, "pickled" flavor.
• Balsamic and Cocktail Sauce - The most "classic" of the foursome, the balsamic added a palpable weight to the bivalve, with the cocktail sauce contributing a pleasing tang on the close.
• Wasabi - Clearly the least successful preparation for me, the wasabi was far too sweet, and not nearly spicy enough. It failed to stand up to the power of the oyster.

3: Maine Diver's Scallop Sautéed with Capers, Brown Butter and Lemon with Tiny Tomato Gnocchi
Viñedos de Ithaca, Priorat, Odysseus, Catalunya, Spain (2008)
Starting with the scallops, I found that they were firm and dense, perhaps a bit overcooked, but still possessing of their intrinsic sweetness. Their weight was augmented by the brown butter, but the crux of the dish was the interaction of the capers and lemon, which added two differing, yet fitting types of piquancy to the course, effectively countering the scallop as well as the overt sweetness of the gnocchi.


Supplement: Chilled Petals of Veal Tongue Ravigote with Fresh Horseradish
Jermann, Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia I.G.T., Italy (2007)
Veal tongue isn't something that I get to have too often, and in fact, I believe that the only other place I've had it was at CUT. As such, this was a must-order supplement for me. Taking the tongue alone, I noted a tender consistency paired with a mild, almost "hammy" flavor. I quite appreciated the lightening effect of the frisee and other greens, but felt that the horseradish was perhaps a bit heavy-handed, overwhelming the tongue's natural sapor. The best part of this course, interestingly, were the accompanying caraway crisps, large swaths of spicy goodness that really reminded me of Indian papadum!


Supplement: A Marriage of Hot and Cold Foie Gras with Sauternes Jelly and House Made Fig Marmalade
Martin Schaetzel, Tokay Pinot Gris, Marckrain, Alsace Grand Cru, France (2005)
Reading the menu initially, I thought that this dish would be a preparation of foie gras in which hot and cold were combined into one (a "marriage"), not merely presented as two separate dishes. In any case, I started with the seared preparation, which wasn't overly sweet as I'd feared. Rather, its lovely char and relatively mild flavor were deftly countered by the use of frisee. As expected though, I preferred the terrine version, imbued with a subtle, yet profound foie gras flavor, with just a touch of sugar from the marmalade and jelly--quite good.


4: Potato Wrapped Tuna Wellington with Caponata Ravioli and Sauce Béarnaise
Domaine de Bel Air, Chinon, La Croix Boisée, France (2005)
Here, we see the Chef's play on the classic Wellington, using tuna in place of beef. The fish was wonderful, a great combination of cooked and rare, and came enrobed in enchanting layers of crispy potato. The tuber's almost hash brown-like savor played the part of a fantastic foil to the fish, adding superb starchy and salty notes to the dish--I wanted more! Unfortunately, I wasn't nearly as fond of the ravioli, which I found overly saccharine, though the microgreens did provide somewhat of an offsetting factor.


Supplement: Curry Dusted Veal Sweetbreads with Homemade Apple Sauce, Virginia Country Ham and Pappardelle Pasta
La Rioja Alta, Viña Alberdi, Reserva, Rioja, Spain (2002)
I'm somewhat of a sweetbreads slut, so this was another must order for me. Unfortunately, the dish wasn't quite as strong as I'd hoped for. Basically, the sweetbreads' flavor was not accented enough. My palate was more focused on the immense salt coming from the ham and the mushroom, while the applesauce provided a countervailing sweetness. The offal, therefore, was somewhat lost for me in this sweet/savory interplay.


5: Pan Seared Four Story Hill Farm's Pekin Duck Breast on Butternut Squash Risotto with Caramelized Endive
Cellar Cecilio, Priorat, L'Espill, Catalunya, Spain (2004)
Taken alone, the duck demonstrated plenty of "ducky" character, with a delicious, succulent flesh and delightfully savory, crisp skin. My issue, thus, was with the accompanying butternut squash risotto, which proved overwhelmingly sugary for me, obliterating the bird's natural sapor. The bitterness of the endive helped alleviate this somewhat, but even it wasn't enough.


6: Our Lilliputian Passion Fruit Dreamsicle
Moving on to dessert, we began with a dollop of passion fruit sorbet, on a stick, with toasted coconut shavings. I really liked the mélange of tart and creamy flavors inherent in the "Dreamsicle," while the coconut provided an interesting textural contrast.


7: A Duet of Soufflés: Warm Hazelnut and Frozen Raspberry
Cellar Xavier Clua, Garnatxa, Terra Alta, Mil.lennium Dolce, Catalunya, Spain (2005)
Finally, we ended with a duo of soufflés. I first attacked the raspberry one, and found it refreshingly cool and fruity, with an almost ice cream-esque character. The hazelnut version, meanwhile, was a prototypical presentation, with pronounced chocolate notes and a bit of nuttiness for good measure. Eating the two together, I appreciated the contrasts in temperature, taste, and texture.


Afterwards, we were each given a small box (modeled after the Inn itself) of various cookies and candies to take home.

We've seen that Chef O'Connell is capable of some fantastic cookery, replete with his signature flourishes and whimsy, his fantastical take on modern American cuisine. At the same time however, the overall experience was marred by a couple of missteps that really did take away some of the magic. In the end, is The Inn at Little Washington still worth the drive? I'd say so, once at least.

Mario's Peruvian Seafood (La Mirada, CA)

Mario's Peruvian Seafood
15720 Imperial Hwy, La Mirada, CA 90638
562.902.8299
www.yelp.com/biz/marios-peruvian-seafood-restaurant-la-mirada (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Sat 01/16/2010, 07:40p-09:00p




Ever since discovering Mo-Chica, I've been on the lookout for other Peruvian places, especially those that might be a little more conveniently located. Thus, I was pleasantly surprised when I found out about Mario's in La Mirada, an offshoot of the legendary Mario's Peruvian & Seafood on Melrose. That restaurant, which opened in 1990, is the handiwork of Mario Tamashiro, a Japanese Peruvian originally from Lima (his son, Dennis Tamashiro, is also involved in managing the restaurant). Mario's southern outpost opened in fall of 2007.


As aseptic as the interior is, it's still a step up from the church cafeteria-inspired decor of the original location. One peculiar feature is the large "dance floor" separating the kitchen from the dining area.


But clearly, we didn't come for the ambiance, but for Mario's menu of Peruvian delights. Though there's "seafood" in the name, methinks that the meat here is at least as good. Click for larger versions.


Upon being seated, we were quickly brought a basket of bread, replete with those little cups of butter. Though the loaves were rather institutional-looking, they were also strangely satisfying, especially when eaten warm and with a squirt of that wonderful guac-hued aji (a condiment containing cilantro, garlic, and hot peppers, among other ingredients).


Mario's offers a smattering of beers, the most interesting of which were the two Peruvian selections. According to our server, the "better" one was the Cervesur's Cusqueña [$5]; it was a typical light lager, and one of my dining companions actually compared it to Bud. The other cerveza was Cristal [$5], which is brewed by beer monopolist Backus and Johnston (the company also owns Cervesur); this one was also a lager, though more complex, with woody notes over a malty backbone.


Papas a la Huancaina [$6.00]
We began with this prototypical Peruvian dish of sliced boiled yellow potatoes (the country is known for its large selection of potatoes), enrobed in a creamy Huancaina (cheese and aji amarillo pepper) sauce, accompanied by lettuce, black olive, and hard-boiled egg. I loved the consistency of the potato, as well as the weight added by the egg, but felt that the sauce could've been richer and more aggressive. A quick squirt of that fantastic aji, however, quickly solved the problem.


Ceviche Mixto [$12.00]
Of course, we had to try at least one form of ceviche, Peru's national dish of seafood (whitefish, shrimp, squid, octopus), marinated and "cooked" in lemon juice, served here with red onion, lettuce, corn, toasted corn (cancha), and sweet potato (camote). Though the fish was a bit tough, the other ingredients were delectable, and I really appreciated the role of the onions and cancha in particular. This was a light, bright, unabashedly acidic jolt to the palate--quite nice.


Arroz Chaufa de Camarones [$12.00]
Here, with this shrimp fried rice, we clearly get to see the influence that Asia has had on Peru's cuisine. Upon tasting the dish, we all noted its not-so-subtle Chinese tinge, and appreciated the generous portions of the still subtly briny shrimp mixed in. I actually preferred this to the bulk of fried rices that I've had over the years.


Chicharron de Pollo [$10.25]
In Latin America, chicharron typically refers to fried pork rinds, though the dish can also be made with chicken meat, as was the case here. It reminded me somewhat of American-style fried chicken, suitably tender and succulent, but with a somewhat darker flavor, and more substantial batter. The chicken was nicely perked up by its bracingly citric dipping sauce, but I preferred to eat it, once again, with that wonderful aji.


Lomo Saltado [$10.25]
The Lomo Saltado is a must try at Mario's. It's another Chinese-influenced dish, a stir-fry of marinated beef tenderloin, tomatoes, red onions, and French fried potatoes, all served with a side of rice. I loved the tender, flavorful bits of beef, paired with the vegetables and immensely satisfying slices of potato, all tempered by the mound of fluffy white rice--I even preferred it to Mo-Chica's version. Furthermore, according to Inuyaki, there exists a variation topped with egg called Lomo Montado; I'll have to remember to get that next time.


Alfajores [$2.50]
An alfajor is a type of confection made by joining two cookies together with some sort of sweet filling, in this case, a caramel-like dulce de leche. The biscuits themselves, coated with powdered sugar, were appropriately crisp, and went nicely with the subtle, not-too-sugary center.


Crema Volteada [$3.00]
We closed with crema volteada, a flan-esque caramel custard dessert. This version was heavier and denser than usual, with an almost alcoholic tinge, along with a liberal application of dulce de leche. Quite good.

Though Mario's may not be the most refined when it comes to Peruvian, I found the food hearty, satisfying, and a great value to boot--it's the type of place that I could see myself coming back to, again and again. Mario's convenient location and easy access truly make it a great place to get your Peruvian fix, without the need to make the trek up North.

Lazy Ox Canteen (Los Angeles, CA)

Lazy Ox Canteen
241 S San Pedro St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.626.5299
www.lazyoxcanteen.com
Wed 01/13/2010, 07:20p-09:45p




You could say that Josef Centeno has worked at a lot of restaurants. The Texas native first discovered his love of cooking while attending UT Austin. After enrolling in the CIA, he staged at Daniel Boulud's eponymous Daniel and Jean Georges Vongerichten's semi-eponymous Vong, and also toqued at the French bastions of La Côte Basque and Les Celebrites. Afterwards, Centeno relocated to California, landing at Charles Nob Hill in San Francisco before heading south to Manresa, where he cooked under David Kinch. Centeno then moved even further south, all the way down to Newport Beach in fact, to work as a Sous Chef at Tim and Liza Goodell's Aubergine. When Aubergine temporary (permanently) closed in February 2005 for "renovations," Centeno was made Executive Chef of small plates concept Meson G (located at the same spot where the new Hatfield's is slated to open), another one of the Goodell's restaurants. He replaced opening Executive Chef Eric Greenspan, who's currently in charge of The Foundry on Melrose.

In 2006, Centeno made the switch over to Opus, and it was here where he first started to make his mark on LA's culinary scene. The Chef was well-known, and well-liked, for his spontaneous tasting menus at Opus, but Centeno announced his decision to leave in September of 2007. He ended up departing in January 2008, and the restaurant rapidly began to falter afterwards, before finally closing in January of this year. The reason for the departure was that Centeno, like many chefs, wanted his own place. He even had a name picked out: "Volver," which means "return." The restaurant was supposed to open in Silver Lake, and was to feature Centeno's famous degustations. Volver never did comenzar, however, and the Chef ended up opening Lot 1 Cafe with Miles and Eileen Leslie in neighboring Echo Park. Though Lot 1 debuted on Cinco de Mayo 2008, Centeno would end up leaving by the end of July. The split was not amicable, and the Chef was slapped with a $400,000 lawsuit. Centeno kept a low profile for a year or so, cooking here and there, but also consulting at tapas joint Bar Celona in Pasadena.

In 2009 (the year of the ox--clever), Centeno met Michael Hide Cardenas, former Matsuhisa GM and current principal of Innovative Dining Group (which brings us the trendy spots Sushi Roku, BOA, Robata Bar, and Katana). The duo decided to work on a concept together, and Lazy Ox Canteen was born out of that collaboration. The restaurant opened on December 17, 2009 to considerable anticipation. Situated in Little Tokyo's Sakura Crossing building, Lazy Ox is meant to be a casual, convivial place, featuring seasonal, global fare paired with interesting beers and wines, all with an eye on value.


Things are casual, and cozy, inside. Amidst the swaths of wood, exposed ductwork, and mesmerizing lighting, you'll find and open, tiny kitchen, and immediately next to it, an even tinier bar (it seats about eight).


Centeno's small plates-focused menu at Lazy Ox attempts to fuse his Franco-centric training with the culinary traditions of Japan, Mexico, and Spain. Perhaps just as appealing is the selection of tipple, chosen by General Manager Kevin Travis. Click for larger versions.


As good as the regular menu looks, it would behoove you to choose mainly from Centeno's chalkboard specials, an ever-changing carte that even features a different family-style meal for each day of the week. Click for larger versions.


Upon being seated, we were quickly brought a dish of cancha, a type of toasted Peruvian corn, dressed here with lime and salt. Made from a special type of corn called maíz chulpe, the kernels were positively addictive--delightfully crunchy, yet with starchy, savory centers.


To drink, we began with two of the brews on draught: North Coast Brewing's Scrimshaw Pilsner out of Fort Bragg, California [$8], and Napa Smith's Pale Ale from Napa, California [$7.50].


Crispy Pig Ear with Lime & Horseradish Aioli [$5.00]
Upon biting in, the first thought that came to mind was "savory churro," thanks to the crunchy, yet yielding consistency of the ears. They were delightfully salty on their own, but were nicely perked up by a bit of lime juice, as well as the wonderfully tangy horseradish aioli. This was easily some of the best pig ear I've had, and was right up there with Animal's version.


Razor Clams a la Plancha [$10.00]
Another highlight was this dish of razor clams, done a la plancha, or cooked on a flattop grill. The heat from the spices used and the subtly bitter char were fantastic complements to the slight brine of the clams.


Pork Belly-Duck Rillettes [$6.00]
Rillettes, of course, refers to a preparation wherein meat is spiced, slow-cooked with fat, shredded, then mixed with more fat to form a paste-like pâté. Pork is the most popular meat, while duck is also common, but the version here is the first I've had that claims to use both pork and duck. The flavor was definitely more porcine, at least at first, with the duck perhaps adding a bit of color on the finish.


Khlii (Moroccan-Style Beef Jerky) with Fried Egg & Salsa Verde [$6.00]
Next up was Centeno's version of khlii, a Moroccan-inspired preparation of dehydrated beef strips, served here piled high atop a fried egg and toast. It was one of my favorite courses of the meal, with the spicy, savory jerky interacting beautifully with the creaminess of the egg, while the zesty salsa made for a piquant temper.


Escabeche of Branzino with Coriander [$8.00]
Escabeche refers to a preparation of fish that's been treated with an acidic marinade. The version here, utilizing the ever-popular branzino, did a nice job in preserving and accenting the seabass' natural fishiness. Its pungency was definitely present, but was deftly cut by the sweetness of the citrus fruit and bitterness of accompanying arugula.


The Bäco [$9.00]
Ah yes, and here we have the bäco (rhymes with taco), Centeno's signature dish. This taco-flatbread-gyro-pizza hybrid was created by accident while the Chef was working at Meson G: when cooking the staff's family meal, he threw together this amalgam of pork belly, braised beef, sauce, greens, and flatbread. Everyone loved it, and the Bäco was born. I was a bit wary of the dish, but it really works. The belly and the beef bring strong, but distinct flavors to the fore, while the smoky, spicy-sweet aioli gives the dish a bit of a kick. The veggies and fruit lighten things up, and the whole shebang just works. I can certainly see why this international mash-up is Centeno's pride and joy.


With our beers dispensed with, we ordered up another round, this time consisting of two rather obscure Japanese brews: Kankiku Brewery's Kujukuri Ocean Beer from Chiba [$12], and the elusive Ozeno Yukidoke IPA, produced by Ryujin Shuzo in Gunma [$12].


Cod Brandade Fritters with Yuzu Aioli [$5.00]
Brandade refers to puréed salt cold, a French specialty. Here, it's done up in fried fritter form, with the fishiness of the cod beautifully accentuated. I rather enjoyed the brandade's strong, yet subtle flavor, countervailed by the acerbic tang of the yuzu. Quite nice.


Fried Chicken with Biscuit & Bacon Gravy [$17.00]
And of course, I had to try the fried chicken. I found the "CFC" very tender, and rather succulent to boot. Delicious on its own, the chicken was further heightened by the gravy, which actually contained chunks of bacon. This made for a rather salty, heavy eating experience, so the use of the bitter (collard?) greens really helped in balancing things out. The only real problem was that some parts of the chicken were overly battered, and thus too tough and dry.


Charred Octopus with Pickled Shallots, Lima Beans & Smoked Paprika [$15.00]
Seeing as how this was "charred octopus," I would've liked to have seen some char. Nevertheless, the octopus was still quite delectable, pleasantly chewy, yet tender, with a subtle sweetness. My favorite part of this dish, though, were the lima beans, which added swaths of earthiness, effectively moderating the interaction between the octopus, spicy paprika, and bitter greens.


Buttermilk Fry Quail with Pomegranate [$14.00]
Given how much I enjoyed the "Quail Fry" at Animal, this was a must order item. The bird, as expected, was bountiful in flavor, with a delightfully crisp consistency. Adding in the sweetness of the accompanying fruit was a bit disconcerting at first, but in the end, everything really did meld together into a sort of unified whole. The problem here, I thought, was that there wasn't enough quail (only one piece) given the amount of accoutrement present.


Hand-Torn Egg Pasta with Sunny-Side Egg, Brown Butter & Fines Herbs [$10.00]
Next we have easily one of the best pasta dishes I've eaten in a while. I quite enjoyed the light, wispy body of the pasta, and how the fines herbes served as an absolutely perfect counter to the noodles. Those herbs, combined with the luscious, creamy egg--simply superb.


Our next beer was a large bottle of Green Flash Imperial IPA [$9], from Vista, California. Think tons of bitter, but not overwhelming, hoppiness--exactly what I'd expect from an Imperial IPA.


White Soy Marinated Yellowtail with Crushed Avocado, Crispy Hash Brown & Creme Fraiche [$11.00]
The yellowtail itself was textbook. What set this dish apart for me, thus, was the hash brown, which served as a great temperature contrast and acted as a base on top of which the other ingredients could really sing. The crème fraiche and "guacamole" contributed loads of silkiness to the fish, while the pomegranate seeds pushed back with a tart sweetness. I loved the bits of puffed rice sprinkled on top as well.


Lengua with Pickled Green Tomato [$9.00]
And now, for our final savory course of the night, we had lengua, or beef tongue. I usually have my lengua in taco form, so this was a bit of a change for me. Think braised beef, with loads of dark flavor and a firm, yet "flaky" texture. The pickled tomato did do wonders in cutting the weight of the tongue, and the bitter vegetables provided a very fitting counterbalance as well.


I was so full by this point that I almost considered passing on dessert. Almost. Click for larger versions.


To pair with the sweets, we went with some "dessert beer." First up was the Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout [$8], from the aforementioned North Coast Brewing. Thick and viscous, it was like drinking chocolate and malt. We also had Brouwerij Van Honsebrouck's St. Louis Framboise [$8], out of Belgium. It was your prototypical fruit lambic, loaded with plenty of raspberry punch.


Orange Flan with Brandy Cream & Hazelnut Cookie [$7.00]
Wanting to go with something lighter for dessert, we started with flan--always a safe bet. What set this one apart was the interaction between the brandy and orange, resulting in a lovely sweet, creamy, spicy interplay, with a bit of heat from the booze.


Yogurt Cake with Buttermilk Ice Cream [$7.00]
And last but not least, a soft, creamy, tangy yogurt cake. The weight of the ice cream made things interesting enough, while the bits of nut sprinkled about mixed things up texturally.

I walked out of Lazy Ox, button-burstingly full, first of all, but also quite impressed. I think Centeno's found a nice niche here, where he can blend the rigors of his formal training with his trademark inventiveness and flair, bringing together seemingly disparate styles into one cohesive concept--we even drew comparisons to Animal. Lazy Ox is a welcomed addition to Downtown, and I think that Centeno's got a winner on his hands. Let's just hope that he manages to stick around a bit longer this time.

Why Are There So Many Asian Food Bloggers?

[Edit: Please try to read the comments section, as it's arguably more important than the principal text (which was meant to serve as a jumping off point). Common concerns have been adressed, and plenty of alternative theories have been presented. Eventually, I plan to compile all the alternate explanations and insert them into the main body.]

"Why are so many food bloggers Asian?"

Ah yes, this age-old question. As the food blogger community here in Los Angeles continues to blossom, we simply cannot look past the abundance of (East) Asians in the sphere. A few weeks back, I decided to perform a quick Google query, hoping to find a reason for this anomaly. Surprisingly, it turned out to be one of those rare instances where Google failed to turn up any material of satisfactory substance. As such, I decided to expound on the matter myself.

I'm entering into this endeavor with some trepidation, as anything that deals with issues of race tends to be a touchy subject. I realize that the term "race" itself is a loaded word, and I'm somewhat hesitant to pigeonhole people into such simplistic bins. However, for the purposes of this discussion, I will use a classification established by the US Census Bureau: Asian, Black, Hispanic, White. This is a far from a perfect nomenclature (especially concerning "Hispanic," which is more of an ethnicity), but will be used here for economy and consistency to Government data.

With those caveats dispensed with, I propose that the plenitude of Asian food bloggers is a multifaceted phenomenon, the result of a combination of five forces:

1. The Cultural Significance of Food
2. Higher Educational Attainment
3. Higher Median Income
4. Better Access to Technology
5. A Propensity for Conspicuous Consumption

I first started noticing the preponderance of Asian bloggers in late 2008. Initially, I thought that it might just be that I tended to gravitate toward other Asian bloggers, a sort of sampling bias, if you will. However, I subsequently had the question of Asian hegemony posed to me on numerous other occasions, from persons outside the blogging circle, individuals that should be, in theory, free of the aforementioned bias.

Thus, to quantify the degree of overrepresentation, I set out to create a comprehensive list of food bloggers; the results are shown in the table below. Please note that the list is heavily slanted toward restaurant blogs based in the LA metro, as that's the realm that I'm most intimately familiar with (it also bounds the sample size). I apologize if I've left your blog out, and doubly so if I've misstated your race. Please do let me know of any errors or omissions.

50 Meals	Asian
The Active Foodie	White
Alli411	White
An American Seoul	Asian
Bacon and Butter	Asian
Banana Wonder	White
Best of LA	Asian
Bites and Bolts	White
Bokeh Bunny	Asian
Brekkie Fan's Blog	Asian
Caroline on Crack	Asian
Chubby Panda	Asian
Clayfood	Asian
Deep End Dining	Asian
Delicious Coma	Asian
The Delicious Life	Asian
Destination Eats	Asian
Diana Takes a Bite	White
Dig Lounge	White
Dishy Goodness	Asian
e*star LA	Asian
Eat Drink & Be Merry	Asian
Eat in OC	White
Eat. Sip. Chew.	White
Eat. Travel. Eat!	Asian
Eating L.A.	White
Eileen Likes to Eat	Asian
Epicuryan	Asian
Exile Kiss	Asian
Experience Taste	Asian
Exploratory Dégustation	Hispanic
Famished L.A.	White
The Fifth Deadly Sin	Asian
Folie à Choisauce	Asian
Food Fashionista	Asian
Food Frenzy	Asian+White
Food GPS	White
Food Is My Nish	Asian
Food, Je T'aime	Asian
The Food Ledger	Asian
Food Marathon	White
Food, She Thought	White
Food Woolf	White
FoodDigger Blog	Asian
Foodie Finder	Asian+Asian
Foodie in Disguise	White
The Foodie Traveler	White
Galley Girl	White
The Gastronomnom	Asian
Gastronomy	Asian
Gastrophoria	Asian
Go Ramen!	Asian
Gourmands Review	White
Gourmet Pigs	Asian
Griffin Eats OC	Asian
Grubtrotters	Asian+White
The Happy Hour Tour	Black+White
Harb Knock Life	White
Hobson's Choice	White
Hungry Hungry Hanh	Asian
Hungry Kat	Asian
I Nom Things	Asian
I'm Hungry	Asian
An Immovable Feast	White
Infinite Fress	White
Jewelz, What Are We Doing Today?	Asian
Journey of an Epicurean Cutie	Asian
Kat's 9 Lives	Asian
kevinEats	Asian
The Knife	White
Kung Food Panda	Asian
L.A. and O.C. Foodventures	Asian
L.A. Easy Meals	Asian
Let Me Eat Cake	Asian/White
The Liquid Muse	White
Living to Eat	Asian
The Los Angeles Food Blog	White
Los Angeles Foodie	White
Loving Annie	White
Low End Theory's L.A. Restaurantz	Asian
Mattatouille	Asian
Melissa Good Taste	White
The Michelin Project	Asian
The Minty	Asian
Mmm-yoso!!!	Asian
Monster Munching	Asian
My Last Bite	Asian/White
My Life as a Foodie	White
My Weekend Passport	Asian
Notes from the Napkin	White
Oishii Eats	Asian
A Peek Into Citynitz's Sentiments	Asian
Pleasure Palate	Asian
Potatomato	Asian
Potential Gold	White
Princess Kitty's Lala-Land	Asian
Quarry Girl	White
Rameniac	Asian
Rants and Craves	Asian
Ravenous Couple	Asian+Asian
Refined Palate	White
Reservation for Three	White
Right Way to Eat!	Asian
The Roaming Belly	Asian
Seeking Food	Asian
ShopEatSleep	Asian/White
SinoSoul	Asian
Sku's Recent Eats	White
South Bay Rants n Raves	Hispanic
Starchy Marie	Asian
Stellar Recipes	White
Street Gourmet LA	Hispanic
Teenage Glutster	Hispanic
The Thirsty Pig	Asian
To Live and Eat in L.A.	White
Triplecreme	White
Tuna Toast	Asian
Two Hungry Pandas	Asian+Asian
Uncouth Gourmands	Hispanic+White
Viva LA Foodies	White
Wandering Chopsticks	Asian
The Wanderkind	Asian
Weezermonkey	Asian
What's to Eat L.A.	White
Wine & Dine	Hispanic
You Gonna Eat That?	Asian
Yutjangsah	Asian

We see that roughly 70% of food bloggers in this survey are classified as Asian. According to the US Census Bureau's American FactFinder, Asians make up 12.9% of the population in Los Angeles County. Thus, having established that Asians are over five times overrepresented in the food blogosphere, we will now turn to more detailed explanations as to why:

The Cultural Significance of Food - Ni chi fan le ma? Such is a saying in Mandarin Chinese, which translates more or less to "Have you eaten yet?" When I was growing up, I remember that this was how my mother would greet her friends, not with a "hello," "how are you doing?," or even ni hao. This little anecdote underscores the notion that Asian cultures tend to be food-centric. In Food in Chinese Culture, KC Chang notes that "few other cultures are as food oriented as the Chinese". Food, thus, rises above the role of mere sustenance, becoming a contraption of societal interaction--one just has to note how often Asians tend to share and eat "family style." Dining therefore represents a critical social construct, a key environment for the free exchange of ideas and the establishment of personal relationships in both business and leisure contexts. Given these circumstances, it's not surprising that food blogging tends to be a social as well as culinary experience--one only has to look at how close-knit (some would say incestuous) we LA bloggers tend to be. [Edit: For more on Asian food culture and history and their role in food blogging, please view Dylan's post on the matter.]

Higher Educational Attainment - The image that we all have of overbearing Asian parents pressuring their kids to succeed academically is almost clichéd at this point. However, I reckon that the scenario is often times reality. As much as I was vexed my parents' domineering attitude, their constant harassment seems to have paid off for me--and I'm not the only one. According to the US Census Bureau's American FactFinder, for the year 2008 in Los Angeles, 47.6% of Asians aged 25 or over have attained a Bachelor's degree or higher. Whites are next, at 31.6%, followed by Blacks at 21.4% and Hispanics at 9.7%. [Edit: Thanks to Jocelyn for pointing me to this updated data.] Blogging, with its emphasis on experimentation, research, and writing, can be considered a somewhat academic pursuit, and thus, we can imagine that those predisposed to academic achievement would have a higher proclivity for blogging as well.

Higher Median Income - Urasawa ain't for the faint of wallet. All these dinners cost money, and though some of the expense may be defrayed by comped meals, I believe that cost is still a limiting factor, especially in the fine dining realm. Quite simply, if your level of income makes it difficult to cover even basic expenses, it's not very likely that you'll want to spend your earnings on "fancy" meals. We again turn to the US Census Bureau's American FactFinder. For the year 2008, in Los Angeles County, median household income for Asians is reported as $62,509. $62,045 is the corresponding figure for Whites, while Hispanics report $44,924, and Blacks, $41,925. If we look at per capita income, Whites lead the way at $33,915, with Asians not too far behind at $29,476, Blacks at $23,439, and Hispanics at $15,604. One implication here is that Asians have a higher than average tendency to cohabitate, which may magnify an individual's spending power. [Edit: Again, I want to thank Jocelyn for providing this data.] These results, of course, relate the educational attainment figures above--it's no secret that income tends to rise with education.

Better Access to Technology - It's pretty hard to blog without a computer and Internet access. According to data collected by the US Census Bureau, Whites and Asians lead the way when it comes to computer usage. 64.6% of Whites and 62.7% of Asians aged 15 or older use a computer at home, while only 44.8% of Blacks and 39.1% of Hispanics do. Similar patterns can be found when looking at computer usage at work and at school. A computer, though, is only half the equation--we still need to look at Internet usage. Whites lead the way here, at 62.3%, with Asians not too far behind at 58.0%. Blacks ring in at 45.6%, and Hispanics, at 37.6%. Intuitively, the results make sense: access to technology should rise with income and education. The US Census Bureau data strongly supports this notion. Clearly then, the digital divide is well and alive.

A Propensity for Conspicuous Consumption - This is surely the most controversial of the five factors, but the tendency for Asians to conspicuously consume is legendary. After all, who hasn't heard the stereotypes about Asian women's obsession with all things Louboutin and Louis Vuitton, or the penchant of Asian men for Swiss watches, Italian shoes, and German automobiles? We've all seen the anecdotal evidence, but according to an article in Entrepreneur magazine, such behavior is endemic: luxury products comprise an $80 billion industry, with half of that revenue coming from Asians. For our good friend M. Vuitton, it's been estimated that, at one point, an incredible 88% of the brand's global sales stemmed solely from Japanese consumers. So what's the reasoning behind all the bling? Radha Chadha, author of The Cult of the Luxury Brand, points to the waves of socioeconomic change that have swept through Asia over the past decades. Historically, Asia had been, for the most part, relatively poor vis-à-vis its "Western" counterparts. With the influx of cash in recent years, combined with the dismantling of old, rigid social structures, spending lavishly becomes the most effective way of denoting your place in society. Furthermore, in their paper Conspicuous Consumption and Race, Kerwin Kofi Charles et al even argue that conspicuous consumption is a method of signaling to others that you've "escaped" the poverty of your people's past. Blogging, thus, becomes a foodie equivalent of the Patek or Birkin bag.

People blog about food for a variety of reasons. What I've tried to capture here is why Asians have a much higher tendency to do so. Thus, to summarize: culture provides the context; education/income/access provide the capacity; and a proclivity for conspicuous consumption provides the catalyst. [Edit: To clarify, the first and last factors encourage, while the others enable.]

Although this post makes no claim to be an exhaustive treatise on the subject, I do feel that I've touched upon the bulk of the most pertinent factors at play. I very well may have missed a few important points however, so I'd love to hear your thoughts on the matter!

Jar (Los Angeles, CA)

Jar
8225 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.655.6566
www.thejar.com
Mon 01/04/2010, 07:00p-10:35p




Jar, Suzanne Tracht's vision of the modern American chophouse, had been on my culinary radar screen for years now. I'd always been somewhat intrigued by Jar's cuisine, which presents itself as a sort of contemporary interpretation of familiar "retro" fare, juiced up by a touch of pan-Asian influence. However, other restaurants got in the way, as tends to happen with me. Thus, I needed a push, and that push came in the form of Jai, a reader whom I'd met previously at The Tasting Kitchen and at Annapurna. Joining us were Jai's friends Brian and Doreen.

About the Chef: A native of Phoenix, Tracht entered the field of cooking as a teenager, when she apprenticed as an entremetier (soup, vegetable, egg cook) and garde manger (pantry cook) at the Arizona Biltmore, under Chef Siegbert Wendler. After three years, Tracht relocated to Los Angeles, working at the Century Plaza Hotel and the Hotel Bel-Air (under George Morrone, opening chef at Aqua and Fifth Floor) before taking on a Sous Chef role at Noa Noa in Beverly Hills in 1991. It was at Noa Noa where Tracht would garner her first significant exposure to the philosophy of Asian fusion cooking. The next year, Tracht joined the team at Campanile, working under the husband-and-wife team of Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton. She would later achieve the rank of Chef de Cuisine there, a crucial step in establishing and growing her standing in the LA restaurant scene.

However, in 1996, Tracht left Campanile, recruited by Andy Nakano to start Jozu (located at the site of the legendary Ma Maison, then Tulipe, Ita Meshi Ya, Jozu, Citrine, Kumo, and now Hamasaku), a well-received Cal-Asian eatery that further cemented her reputation. Tracht, however, left in October 1999, replaced by Hisashi Yoshiara--the restaurant lasted only a couple more years after that. The best thing to come out of Jozu, perhaps, was Preech Narkthong, Jar's current Chef de Cuisine. While at Jozu, Tracht met the chef, and the two instantly connected. Perhaps it was destined: a native of Thailand, Narkthong moved to the States in 1966, taking his first culinary position at the Century Plaza Hotel, the very same hotel where Tracht would begin her career in California some years later.

With the dynamic duo of Tracht and Narkthong established, the stage was set for Jar. Partnering with former boss Mark Peel and general manager Jason Lapin, along with attorney Bob Silverstein, Tracht debuted Jar in September 2001. In spite of the inauspicious opening date, Jar quickly gained its share of fame and acclaim, firmly entrenching itself in the LA culinary landscape. Despite success in the kitchen, there were some still shake ups in ownership. In 2002, Lapin, who opened Spago Las Vegas, would leave the partnership and return to Sin City to work at Tom Colicchio's Craftsteak. In 2004, Peel divested his stake in Jar to focus on Campanile, and Silverstein would also sell that year (though he would remain on as wine director). Their void was filled by new investors: television writer and producer Philip Rosenthal and his wife Monica (the two also have a stake in Pizzeria Mozza).

The success of Jar paved the way for further opportunities, and in 2007, Tracht opened the eponymous Tracht's at the Renaissance Long Beach Hotel. Led by Executive Chef Randy Montoya, Tracht's was a virtual clone of Jar. However, the restaurant failed to catch on, and was shuttered by July 2009, further cementing the notion that Long Beach is not a foodie city. Tracht's latest restaurant venture, first developed in 2008, is Suzpree, a sort of "modern oyster bar and noodle house" rooted in pan-Asian cookery. Though originally slated for a summer 2009 debut, Suzpree has been pushed back to 2010. And if that wasn't enough, according to a recent LA Weekly article, the Chef is working on a "comfort food concept" called Tracht House at LAX! Finally, Tracht was recently a contestant on the first season of Top Chef: Masters, where she successfully defeated Graham Elliot Bowles, Wylie Dufresne, and Elizabeth Falkner to secure a spot in the Champions Round, winning $10,000 for local food bank SOVA.



Dressed in dark, rich hues of brown, Jar's 90-seat room recalls that of a 1950's supper club. However, those of you who've visited Jar in its early days will know that the space didn't always look as it does now. The restaurant began life with a light, airy, retro Space Age meets The Jetsons meets Mid-Century modern design that eventually outlived its welcome. When the Rosenthals invested in 2004, Jar closed for three months, during which the interior was transformed to what we see today. Unfortunately, the current lighting is horrendously dim (though not quite as bad as at Mastro's or Tagine); at ISO800, I went all the way down to 1/5s wide open at f/1.8. As a result, I apologize in advance for the subpar photos.


Jar's various cartes are shown above; click for larger versions. Split simply between starters and mains, the seasonally-adjusted menu reflects the combined efforts of Tracht and Narkthong in an attempt to reinvent chophouse classics to reflect their own techniques and personalities. That is not all there is to Jar, though. Remember the aforementioned restaurant concept Suzpree? Well, Tuesdays through Thursdays at the bar, you can get a taste of Suzpree's Cal-Asian cuisine via a menu of six small plates, which change weekly.

Suzpree will have to wait, however, as we were here for Mozzarella Mondays, a one-day-a-week special event that began way back in September 2004. At the time, Nancy Silverton, having sold her stake in Campanile and La Brea Bakery, was still planning the debut of Mozza. With some free time on her hands, she started Mozzarella Mondays at Jar, partly because her ex-husband Mark Peel was a co-owner. Silverton eventually left, but the concept remained. Jar currently sources its mozzarella from famed producer Gioia Cheese in South El Monte.


And now, the libations: a straightforward selection of cocktails, beers, and wines by the glass. Of course, a much more complete, reasonably priced wine list is also available. Click for larger versions.


We decided upon cocktails to start. Doreen, the Cognac fiend that she is, ordered a Sidecar [$14]: Hennessey VS Cognac, Cointreau, Fresh Sweet & Sour Mix, a Splash of Orange Juice with a Sugar Rim. I quite liked it, with the citrus playing a great foil to the Cognac. Jai went even more old-school, with Jar's Premium Manhattan (Blanton's Bourbon, Vya Sweet Vermouth, Angostura Bitters) [$18], a stiff, straightforward, textbook version of the drink. I, on the other hand, asked our server to "surprise me," and she chose the Koh Samui [$14], made from Ketel One and Lychee Juice. Named after an island off the coast of Thailand, the cocktail was pleasantly sweet, absolutely imbued with lychee flavor, but with just a hint of heat--quite nice.


Not surprisingly, given Jar's relationship with Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton, the bread, a prototypical sourdough, comes from La Brea Bakery.


Spicy Fried Egg [$9.00] | melted mozzarella, harissa
Upon seeing the words "Spicy Fried Egg" on the menu, I knew that I had to make this our first mozzarella selection. Combined with the heft of the egg, the rich creaminess of the mozzarella was a great counter to the piquancy of the harissa, while the bits of scallion up top contributed a nice vegetal tang.


Burrata [$11.00] | shallot confit, bacon, charred marinated escarole
As good as the above dish was, Brian's mozzarella pick was even better. I loved the interaction here between the gooey burrata and the crisp, salty bacon, while the bitterness of the escarole added a further, wondrous accent.


Crab Deviled Eggs [$10.00]
I've never met a deviled egg that I didn't like--I guess you could call me a deviled egg slut (that's an Anthony Bourdain reference, by the way). There's something very appealing to me about the weight of the yolk, perked up by various spices, interacting with the cool gentleness of the hard-boiled egg. This was pretty much a textbook preparation of œufs mimosa, just with a touch of sweet brine, courtesy of the crab.


Fried Squash Blossoms [$16.00] | tempura, ponzu
Next we have an off-the-menu special: deep-fried, tempura-battered zucchini flowers. I really appreciated the blossoms' firm, almost "meaty" consistency, as well as their subtle, yet succulent squash sapor. The tangy ponzu dip, meanwhile, effectively offset some of the heaviness of the dish.


With our cocktails dispensed with, it was time to move on to some wine. Jai chose a Rhône-inspired Syrah/Mourvèdre blend: the 2008 Rancho Arroyo Grande Deep Sea Red [$46], from California's Central Coast. This was a powerful, yet easy-drinking wine, with alluring flavors of dark berry intertwined with herbal and slightly astringent notes. I rather liked it.


Black Mussels [$14.00] | ong choy, lobster béarnaise, fennel salt
Our last appetizer was one of Tracht's best. The mussels were perfectly cooked to a firm, yet yielding body, but the key here was how the briny mollusks played off of the delightful bits of water spinach. The effect was stupendous, rendering the accompanying fennel salt and béarnaise superfluous. And let's not forget the superb chili-tinged broth; once the mussels were gone, we eager soaked up the remaining pool with pieces of our La Brea bread! This may have very well been the strongest presentation of mussels I've ever eaten.


Prime Filet of Beef [$38.00] | (10 ounces)
And with that, we were off to our first main course of the night: a classic beef tenderloin. Some have complained that Jar's steaks tend to be slightly underseasoned, and I can see where they're coming from. The filet here was cooked to a tender consistency, with a proper juiciness and char. However, at the same time, it didn't have that in-your-face, "steak-y" savor that I expected--it was much more understated. Perhaps this intentional, to let the sauces (we had a Lobster Béarnaise) sing?


Chopped Sirloin [$21.00] | fried egg, green peppercorn sauce
On the other hand, there was no paucity of flavor here. The sirloin itself was appropriately succulent, with a lovely herbal component counterbalancing the sheer heft of the meat. The egg, meanwhile, served to add an overarching creaminess to the dish. Think of this as a ridiculously tasty hamburger patty.


Coq au Vin [$21.00] | red wine, applewood smoked bacon, pearl onions, crimini
Here was Tracht's version of the oh-so-classic French dish of braised, falling-off-the-bone tender chicken. This was a heavy, yet heavenly dish, with hearty and heartwarming flavors that were straightforward in appeal, yet suitably complex.


Lamb Shank [$25.00] | star anise, coriander, garlic
Following was another braised dish, this time a leg of lamb. Looking at it, Brian resisted the urge to simply grab the bone and start gnawing, Flintstones style (and I thank him for that). I was a bit concerned that this would be overly tough, but it wasn't. Instead, it was cooked to a pleasing, "toothsome" tenderness. Flavor-wise, it successfully preserved the essence of lamb while presenting lovely notes of anise.


Jar's Signature Pot Roast [$29.00] | carrots, caramelized onions
And here we have our final main, the infamous short rib pot roast, served with a side of Creamy Horseradish. As expected, this was a rustic, homey eating experience of stupendously tender, hearty beef. Simple, yet oh-so-satisfying, I can see why this is the restaurant's signature dish.


Duck Fried Rice [$9.00]
To accompanying our main courses, we chose the Duck Fried Rice. The heft of the duck confit utilized was deftly complemented by the pungency of the mounds of onion sprinkled on top. Very good.


To finish off the meal, a look through the dessert menu was certainly in order; click for larger versions. Interestingly, at one point, desserts were brought in from La Brea Bakery. Now however, they are prepared in-house by Pastry Chef Sandra Bustamante.


For after dinner drinks, Jai chose the Marolo Chamomile Grappa [$15], while Cognac-fanatic Doreen ordered some Hennessey VS Cognac [$12].


Jar's Signature Chocolate Pudding [$10.00]
Think smooth, luscious, velvety chocolate--rich and sugary, but not overwhelmingly so. This really reminded me of an adult version of the chocolate pudding snacks I used to eat as a child!


Banana Cream Pie [$10.00] | caramel sauce
We closed with a individually-portioned pie, filled with a banana-laced custard, topped with whipped cream, and drizzled with caramel. The small slices of banana were nicely moderated by the cream, but the best part of this was the crisp, buttery, shortbread-esque crust.

If Tracht's goal is to serve "upscale" comfort food with a twist, then Jar is spot on. For the most part, retro classics are presented here with considerable gusto, faithful to the original, but somehow a step above. As you might suspect, Tracht is a big proponent of braising, and her fondness for the technique shows through in the rustic appeal of the food--those braises are definitely the stars of the show here. Pair them up with some of the starters (which can veer more toward the creative side), and you'll do just fine. It's clear to me that Jar is more than "Just Another Restaurant."