The Dining Room at The Langham (Pasadena, CA) [2]

The Dining Room at The Langham
1401 South Oak Knoll Ave, Pasadena, CA 91106
626.568.3900
www.thediningroom-langham.com
Fri 02/26/2010, 07:30p-01:20a



My last visit here was in August of last year, shortly after Michael Voltaggio had replaced former chef Craig Strong in the kitchen. The Dining Room was scheduled to shutter for renovations at the end of summer 2009, but due to Voltaggio's win on Top Chef, the restaurant has remained open to capitalize on Voltaggio's newfound fame. Renovations have currently been pushed back to Q3 2010. I definitely had planned on coming back prior to the closure, and I was recently presented with the perfect opportunity: the startup that some friends of mine worked for was about to get acquired. A celebratory dinner (perhaps the first in a series), thus, was called for. We considered the usual suspects--Melisse, Providence, Spago, Urasawa--before deciding on The Dining Room.


Now, seeing as how this was supposed to be a celebratory dinner, I requested the Private Dining Room. The PDR normally requires a party of eight, and seats up to 18. However, we were "eating for eight," so to speak, so we had no problem securing the space.


The standard menu just wouldn't do, so in true kevinEats fashion, we requested to run the gamut, getting a taste of all 21 courses (a vague reference to Bryan's Table 21 perhaps?) on the menu, split between two people, paired with a mind-boggling assortment of 21 libations, courtesy of new Sommelier Josh Goldman. Previously, Josh worked with David Haskell at BIN 8945, and also served as GM at Church & State and Bastide, both under Walter Manzke. In fact, we chatted briefly about Manzke's recent departure from C&S, and both agreed that a chef of his caliber just couldn't last doing "mere" bistro fare. Click for larger versions.



Caviar Service
Pierre Peters, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Le Mesnil, France
To go along with the celebratory nature of this dinner, we decided that some caviar was in order. One of my dining companions managed to procure some beluga, and I requested "caviar corkage," to simply be able to consume the caviar at the beginning of the meal--we even brought our own blinis and crème fraiche. Voltaggio, ever the perfectionist, however, would not let this stand. Our accoutrements were tossed aside, replaced by his egg salad, traditional housemade buckwheat blinis, and amazing liquid nitrogen "Crème Fraiche 2010." Voltaggio definitely exceeded expectations here, going well above what was called for.

The star here, clearly, was that stellar nitro crème fraiche. It was somewhat lighter, more ethereal than your typical variety, and played beautifully with the roe, forming a perfect interplay of creamy and briny flavors. It also gave the caviar a great temperature contrast as well. The combination of caviar, crème fraiche, and blini was magical! In addition, I also tried the caviar alone, and noted its deliciously robust, yet refined flavor, imbued with nutty, buttery goodness--I still preferred it with accompaniments, though. To drink, I'd actually brought a bottle of vintage Bollinger Grand Année, but Josh recommended the "grower" Pierre Peters in its place--it was a wise substitution. Think dry and crisp, but not overwhelmingly so, with plenty of yeast, backed by hints of citrus and vanilla. It was almost Krug-like in character, and a superb complement to the caviar.


Amuse Bouche: Sake Jello
The meal proper began with a fruity bang: a sake gelée encasing fraises des bois (small, wild strawberries), topped with strawberry tonic. This was a lovely, refreshing start to the dinner that captured the very essence of strawberry, intermingled with just a touch of astringency from the tonic.


The first round of bread saw a bacon soft roll and a country white, served with Échiré unsalted butter and Vermont salted butter.


1: Japanese Shima Aji | Jamon Iberico, Sea Sponge, Finger Lime
Terres Dorées, FRV100, Effervescent Gamay, Beaujolais
The gauntlet of courses started with a shima aji, or striped jack, sashimi, done up in a somewhat crudo-inspired style. Taking the fish alone, I really appreciated the tartness imparted upon it by the finger lime. The best part of this, though, was the use of Jamón Ibérico, which added a fantastic saltiness to counter the relatively restrained flavor of the jack. The "sea sponge," meanwhile, with its mirin and dashi verve, contributed a briny, umami-tinged finish to the course. The wine pair was the "infamous" FRV100, a fizzy Gamay that I'd had previously at Church & State (with Josh) and at LudoBites. I was a bit wary of its overt sweetness, but actually found it to be a great foil to the savoriness of the dish.


2: Langoustine | White Asparagus, Tiny Eggs, Fried Calamari
2007 Paul Pernot, Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy, France
Next up was perhaps some of the best langoustine I've ever had. Its texture was just fantastic--soft, snappy, supple--while the taste was delicately sweet, lightly sea-tinged. The eggs added an appropriately luxurious complement, while the squid ink-tinted asparagus' bitterness also made itself known. The star here, however, was the calamari--crisp, crunchy, and absolutely bursting in salty savor. The pairing of a bourgogne blanc, with its citric sweetness, marked minerality, and clean acidity, just made sense here.


At this point, we were presented with The Dining Room's famous tennis ball-sized truffle brioche, accompanied by an airy goat cheese butter from Turlock, CA. Almost mesmerizing in appearance with its concentric rings of sable, the brioche was positively imbued with the heady sapor of truffle--I nearly finished it in one go! Given the length of the meal, however, I knew I had to temper my appetite.


3: Garden Harvest | Vegetables of the Season, Warm Burrata
1999 S. Tissot, Vin Jaune, Arbois, France
This was an interesting course, and not one that I'd exactly expect from Voltaggio. It harkens back to other Gargouillou/Michel Bras-inspired vegetable compositions such as David Kinch's signature "Into the Vegetable Garden," Paul Liebrandt’s "From the Garden," and Daniel Patterson's "Garden, Late Fall." Made with a whopping 20 types of veggies (including carrot, beet, nasturtium, and squash blossom) and supplemented by vegetable gelée, sherry vinaigrette, harissa paste, burrata, and cardamom-coffee soil, it was an intriguing exposition of disparate tastes and textures, a cacophonous symphony of savory-bitter-sweet. The sherry-like vin jaune, meanwhile, did a respectable job in moderating and integrating the power of the various veggies. One the highlights of the meal for me.


4: Octopus | Buttered Popcorn, Piquillo Confetti, Cilantro
Dewazakura Brewery, Izumi Judan, Yamagata Prefecture, Japan
I adored the octopus' firm, yet yielding consistency here, along with its mildly sweet flavor, perked up with the subtle heat of piquillo pepper. Meanwhile, the popcorn purée added a palpable weight to the course, but was a touch too buttery for me. To stand up to the forcefulness of the dish, we needed something relatively austere, and the Dewazakura fit the bill nicely. A minerally, juniper-tinted sake (Josh even likened it to a gin martini!), its dryness countered the gravity of the popcorn purée admirably.


5: Tasmanian Sea Trout | Hibiscus, Pink Peppercorn, Puffed Mushroom Cracker
2008 Sant'Elena, Traminer Aromatico, Delle Venezie, Friuli Venezie Giulia, Italy
I loved how the fish itself was cooked--rare, raw almost, with a nearly gelatinous consistency and a biting, briny sapor. Besides the fish, I really appreciated the porcini crackers, which lent an earthy finish to the course, and which made for a great crispy textural element. The hibiscus air, however, was considerably more jarring, a bit disconcerting even; I was sort of ambivalent. Its sweetness did find a match in the floral, tropical fruit flavors of the wine though.


6: Foie Gras "Chaud" | Celery, Medjool Date, Mustard Sabayon
Lustau, Solera Reserva, Emilín, Moscatel Sherry, Jerez, Spain
Next, Chef Voltaggio wanted to demonstrate two foie dishes--hot 'n' cold (get thoughts of Katy Perry out of your head)--side by side. Both were paired with sherry, to boot. Now, regular readers will know that I'm somewhat of a terrine slut, so imagine my surprise when I actually preferred the chaud. It was one of the best hot foie gras I'd ever had, in fact. I appreciated its fabulously finespun foie flavor, and how the astringency of the celery (a veggie I usually abhor) formed a faultless foil to the gravity of the liver. Fantastic.


7: Foie Gras "Froid" | Apple, Saffron, Marcona Almond, Aerated Brioche
Lustau, Solera Reservera, Don Nuno, Dry Oloroso, Jerez, Spain
For the cold preparation, Voltaggio presented a seemingly simple cylinder of foie, accompanied by sous vide apples in saffron syrup, grated Marcona almonds, and the Chef's famous microwaved nitrous oxide brioche. However, penetrate the terrine, and you'll release a deluge of apple juice and vanilla, making for an amalgam of counterbalancing sweet and salty flavors. The light, fluffy brioche, thus, acts the part of a tempering element, sopping up all the goodness on the plate. As for the Lustau, it was a light sherry--nutty, woodsy, subtly sweet--that did a great job in cutting the fat of the foie. As a pairing, I preferred it to the Lustau served above, though I liked the darker, sweeter Moscatel better alone.


8: Kurobuta Pork Belly | Bok Choy "Kim Chi", Kabocha Squash Preserves, Peanut Butter Powder
Hitachino Nest, Real Ginger Brew, Kiuchi Brewery, Japan
Kurobuta Pork Belly--is there any ingredient that's more played out? Perhaps not, but that doesn't take away from the fact that this was a simply outstanding example, one of the best I've had, in fact. I loved the use of kimchi, and how it, profuse in piquant spice, steadfastly stood up to the heft of the belly--a perfect counterweight. This was easily the best use of kimchi I've seen in a non-Korean setting. Beer, thus, was a natural pairing with the dish, and boy, did Josh pick a good one! The Hitachino showed lovely notes of ginger and citrus over a slightly spicy backbone--it worked very well in offsetting the power of the dish.


9: Veal Sweetbreads | Green Olive, Lemon, Romaine Lettuce
2007 Dönnhoff, Riesling, Nahe, Germany
The sweetbreads, chiseled into cuboid form, could've been mistaken for the pork belly above. Flavor-wise, though, they were quite distinct. This was much more in-your-face, dense and buttery, with plenty of that signature sweetbread savor, perked up by the sourness of the lemon and the bitterness of the olive "caviar." The key here, though, was the romaine, which served as a light, juicy, crispy counterpoint to the weightiness of the veal--it absolutely made the dish for me. A light, sweetish wine was in order here, and the Dönnhoff fit the bill nicely with its floral, fruity character.


10: Jidori Chicken | Winter Truffles, Egg, Sunflower Root, Sunflower Seeds
2007 Geyerhof, Ried Richtern, Zweigelt, Kremstal, Austria
Yes, though it may not look the part, this was indeed a chicken dish. Truffle and slow poached egg is almost unavoidably a winning combination, and this was no exception. Their classic, heady flavors were apt complements to the relatively subdued chicken, which took on more of a supporting role in the dish. The use of sunflower seeds, meanwhile, provided a lovely nutty punctuation to complete the course. Josh paired this with a Zweigelt, sort of the prototypical Austrian red. He compared it to a heavy Gamay, and I liked how the fruit in the wine moderated the power of the truffle's earthiness.


11: Pastrami Pigeon | Swiss Cheese, Sauerkraut, Rye
Duchesse de Bourgogne, Ale, Brewery Verhaeghe, West Flanders, Belgium
This was the one course that was repeated from my last visit, and I'm happy to report that it was definitely improved this time around. It was a bolder, more balanced dish, with the delectable, spicy cured pigeon beautifully complemented by the cubes of sauerkraut gelée and heightened by the pieces of puffed Swiss. The squab was paired with one of my favorite libations of the night, the Duchesse de Bourgogne, a Flemish ale that Josh likened to Doc Brown's Black Cherry soda! Indeed, it was suitably sweet, with gorgeous notes of sour cherry that just blended beautifully with the bird. This pigeon, a Moto-esque deconstruction of a Reuben sandwich, is quickly becoming one of Voltaggio's signature dishes, and with good reason!


12: Mediterranean Sea Bass | Mussels Billi-bi, Fennel, Quinoa
2007 Chateau La Rouvière, Rosé, Bandol, Provence, France
Here we have a expertly prepared cut of seabass, semi-flaky and supple in body, with a softly briny flavor, and a delectably crisp, savory skin. I wasn't in love with the quinoa, but I did appreciate the billi-bi, along with the pungency of the fennel, which played nicely with the spicy-strawberry flavors of the paired rosé.


With the fish courses came a tasty side of seaweed mashed potatoes. I made sure to finish the entire pot--very nice!


13: Skate Wing | Brown Butter, Scrambled Cauliflower, Caper Powder
2008 Mormoraia, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy
A few weeks ago, at Petrossian, I had an excellent rendition of skate wing, done à la grenobloise, which means cooked with brown butter, capers, lemon, and parsley. In a way, this could be considered Voltaggio's take on the classic dish. The fish itself was soft, spongy, and possessing of a considerable depth of flavor, thanks in part to the beurre noisette. It was balanced by the tang of the lime and caper, presented here in powder form, and I loved how the mashed potatoes elevated the fish's inherent briny essence. The pairing with the crisp, fruity, acidic Vernaccia was spot on.


14: Jamison Farm Lamb | Vadouvan, Nori-Spaghetti Squash, Yogurt, Fried Rice
2007 Bibich, Riserva, North Dalmatia, Croatia
Our first meat course consisted of a sous vide lamb three-way: shoulder, loin, tongue. Vadouvan, which is all the rage these days (Ludo's fav!), provided a lovely spicy foil to the dish, and heightened, but did not overwhelm, the meat's intrinsically "lamby" flavor. Humorously, one of my dining companions even compared the flavor of the vadouvan to chili CornNuts! Countering the power of all this was the yogurt and the scrumptious rice. We were poured a Croatian wine, the Bibich Riserva, which I'd had previous at ParkAve. Described as Zin-like by Josh, the wine's peppery, dark fruit flavors stood up to the intensity of the course.


15: Milk-Fed Veal Breast | Risotto, Broccoli, Fiscalini Cheddar
2008 Julien Frémont, Cidre Brut, Normandy, France
The veal was some of the best I've had. I usually find the meat boring, but this was anything but. Soft and tender in consistency, the veal had a somewhat smoky, almost "hammy" tinge to it. Delicious on its own, I also enjoyed the meat paired with the cheddar and char of the burnt broccoli florets. The cider, another Church & State import, had an intriguing farmhouse nose, leading to earthy flavors over a backbone of apple. It went well with the broccoli and cheese here.


16: Japanese Kuroge Beef | Marrow Toast, King Trumpet, Bordelaise Sauce
2000 R. Lopez de Heredia, Viña Tondonia, Reserva, Rioja, Spain
Now, we turn our attention toward our bovine friend, Mr. Kuroge. Though contemporary in appearance and technique, the flavors here were thoroughly classic: a perfectly-prepared parallelepiped of protein, savory mushrooms, red wine sauce, and the heady weight of bone marrow. The paired rustic Rioja? A no-brainer.


17: Wagyu Short Rib | Smoked Potato "Tots", Nantes Carrots, White Ketchup
2001 COS, Nero d'Avola, Sicilia, Italy
And now, for our final savory course of the night: an even more decadent presentation of beef. Rich and unctuous, the Wagyu broke apart near instantaneously upon mastication. I altogether enjoyed the meat by itself, but I did appreciate the moderating effect of the potato and carrot. The "sexy tomato seeds," meanwhile, provided a tart, offsetting tang. The paired wine, a dark, jammy Nero d'Avola, was a natural choice.


Pre Dessert: "Cookies & Milk"
Before dessert proper, we were presented with Voltaggio's version of Dippin' Dots. Basically globules of ice cream frozen with liquid nitrogen, the spheres were quite tasty indeed, with a great, light, airy texture.


18: Baba Au Rhum | Textures of Coconut and Pineapple
2004 Weingut Rosenhof, TBA Chardonnay, Illmitz, Austria
First up was a reimagined rum baba, presented here as a fruity gallimaufry of varying textures and tastes, which one of my dining companions described as almost "gummi bear"-like in flavor. The whole amalgam seemed very Adrian Vasquez-esque to me (not necessarily a bad thing, mind you). The paired wine, teeming with tropical fruit flavors, worked perfectly, as expected.


19: Lavender Flower Macaron | Crème Fraiche Panna Cotta, Vanilla-Passion Sorbet, Floral Cotton Candy
2000 Patricius, 5 Puttonyos, Tokaji, Hungary
Here, the floral character of the macaroon took center stage, where it was joined by the subtle tanginess of the panna cotta, and the marked tartness of the passion fruit. The Tokaji, with its unabashedly saccharine nature, easily cut through the floral notes, resulting in a pleasing admixture of creamy and fruity flavors.


20: Sticky Toffee Pudding | Jasmine "Rice Cream", Lime, Banana Custard
1998 Domaine Fontanel, Rivesaltes Ambré, Roussillon, France
And now, we move into the heavier chocolate-based desserts. Despite appearances, the cake was actually quite light, and not terribly sweet. It was nicely foiled by the cool, soothing "rice cream" and airy lime foam, but the crux of this dish was the banana custard, which lent an overarching weight to the dessert. I apologize for the sloppy presentation here--I accidentally spilled the wine, a Grenache Blanc, on the plate!


21: Fools Gold | Chocolate, Salty Hazelnut Praline, Milk Sorbet
1989 L'Étoile, Cuvée Réservée, Grand Cru, Banyuls, Roussillon, France
Fool's Gold, which I first tasted at Hatchi, is quickly becoming the Chef's signature dessert. The base of the dish is a serpentine block of ganache-like chocolate. This combines with the hazelnut praline to form a flavor combination not unlike that of a Ferrero Rocher. The use of salt provided an interesting counterpoint, while the sorbet served as a cool, calming contrast. Our final wine of the night, a sugary, raisin-y Grenache blend, worked wonders in complementing the chocolate.


Mignardises
Some fruit candies and mini macarons to close, along with Voltaggio's famous pop rock-infused chocolate lollipops.


After dinner, we visited the kitchen, chatted a bit, and shared a glass of Krug Grande Cuvée (they just happened to have an open bottle laying around!) with the Chef.


For all you poker fans out there, we also ran into the husband-and-wife team of Chad Brown and Vanessa Rousso. Anyone know who the other two guys are?


Somehow, the idea of Champagne sabrage came up, and Josh proceeded to show off his sabering skills outside!

When I look back and compare this dinner to my first visit to The Dining Room, it's obvious that Voltaggio has experienced some real growth in his cooking. The food is undeniably more confident, more focused, more self-assured--the Chef has really come into his own here. The result, quite simply, was a meal of epic proportions--somewhat cerebral, but not esoteric, approachable. In fact, if Michelin were still around, two stars would not surprise me for arguably the most progressive cookery in Los Angeles.

The Six (Los Angeles, CA)

The Six
10668 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064
310.837.6662
www.thesixrestaurant.com
Wed 02/24/2010, 07:30p-11:20p




After my meal at Petrossian the previous week, I was reminded of Chef David Gussin. Gussin was Ben Bailly's former Sous Chef and is the current Executive Chef at The Six, a new "gastrobistro" concept located in the old Jack Sprat's Grille space on Pico. The restaurant, which soft-opened in December 2009, is the brainchild of Will Karges (Johnnie's Pizza, Jones Hollywood, Circle Bar), Jake King (Rix Cafe, El Dorado, Drake's), as well as silent partner Devin Klein. The name is based on the so-called Society of Six, an early 20th century group of modernist en plein air painters based in Northern California. In addition to their groundbreaking art, the Society was also known for its legendary meals at the artists' meeting place, the "Chow House."

About the Chef: Originally hailing from the San Fernando Valley, the 25-year-old Gussin moved to South Pasadena at age 11. After graduating from South Pasadena High School, he studied business at the College of the Canyons before enrolling in the Le Cordon Bleu program at the California School of Culinary Arts. Afterwards, Gussin landed a Chef de Partie position at Norman Van Aken's Norman's on Sunset. Here, he worked for 10 months under Chef de Cuisine Michael Bryant (Father's Office, Joe's, Bin 8945). Just before Norman's shuttered in November 2006, Gussin moved to Chicago, where he spent another 10 months cooking with Carrie Nahabedian at Naha.

In July 2007, the Chef transitioned to DeLaCosta, where he worked under Douglas Rodriguez as a lead line cook. It was here where Gussin would truly come into his own, putting items on the menu and expanding the scope of his culinary creativity. Los Angeles beckoned, however, and the Chef moved back to LA in November 2008, finding work at Akasha Richmond's eponymous eatery. Gussin toiled at Akasha as a Sous Chef for five months before joining Benjamin Bailly as Petrossian's Sous. Finally, in October 2009, Gussin left Petrossian to work his first Executive Chef position at The Six. Rounding out the team at The Six are Sous Chef Daniel Somoza and General Manager Mitch DuRette.

In January, I was invited to do a media tasting at The Six by co-owner Jake King. Joining me were Amy of Journey of an Epicurean Cutie, Christie of Pardon My Crumbs, Helen of I'm Hungry, Ryan of Epicuryan, and Tsz of Gastrophoria.


The owners did a nice revamp of the old Jack Sprat's, transforming the space into something befitting of a gastropub-bistro hybrid. It's a homey, rustic room, punctuated by a vintage wooden bar surrounded by recycled wine crates, photo collage-wrapped sconces, and bare Edison light bulbs dangling from iron pot racks.


Under Gussin, The Six stresses the importance of seasonal, sustainable, farm-to-table produce for its New American menu, with nearly everything made in house. As such, the carte changes periodically, and we were able to catch some of the winter menu, with a bit of the spring selection thrown in for good measure as well. Gussin also included a smattering of off-menu specials. Click for a larger version.


To begin, were provided with a bottle of the Mumm Napa Brut Rosé, a tasty, easy-drinking sparkler with prototypical strawberry and citrus notes intermingled with a bright, light acidity.


1: Hamachi Ceviche | pancetta, tangerine³, pickled jalapeno, crispy red onion
We started with a dish inspired by Gussin's time working for Doug Rodriguez in Chicago. Compared to traditional ceviches, in which the fish may marinate for hours, the version here only began "cooking" in lime juice from the time we sat down. The end result was a simultaneously sweet and sour interplay between the citrus and the comparatively mild fish. I appreciated the use of tangerine (juice, supremes, candied zest), but the key here was the pancetta, which added a lovely salty accent and a great crunchy textural element. The fish, however, should've been cut into smaller pieces.


Paired with the mushroom course was Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale, a classic brown ale with marked coffee notes leading to a rather savory finish (which Tsz described as being "soy sauce"-like).


2: Wild Mushrooms | chanterelles, black trumpet, hedgehog, maitake, shitake, oyster, poached egg
We have here a mélange of locally-foraged mushrooms, reminiscent of a similar dish that I had at Father's Office. I really enjoyed the various tastes and textures of the fungi, while the egg added a fantastic, overarching luxuriousness to the dish, a perfect complement to the earthy weight of the mushrooms. This was one of the table favorites.


3: Beet Panzanella | mission figs, ricotta superfina, bacon, wild rocket, sherry almond vinaigrette
Here was Gussin's version of the classic Italian bread salad dish panzanella. Beets were used to give the salad a more "wintery" character, as traditionally, panzanella is a summer dish. I'm generally not a huge fan of beets, so I was glad to find that they weren't too overpowering here. Instead, the beets were nicely tempered by the bitterness of the arugula and the sugariness of the figs especially, while the ricotta provided a lovely, creamy accoutrement to the course. The bacon, meanwhile, gave things a sharp, salty accent.


Our next beer was the Stone IPA, on draught. Think loads of bitter hops, with some spicy, citrus flavors as well.


4: Crispy Jidori Chicken Thigh | butternut squash apple hash, sage, pomegranate gastrique
One of the highlights of the meal for me was this perfectly cooked chicken thigh. I loved its juicy, tender, succulent flesh, enrobed in layers of fantastically crisp, savory skin. I was even alright with the squash-apple hash, which I had feared would be overly sweet.


5: Prince Edward Island Mussels | spanish chorizo fumet, confit garlic, grilled ciabatta
Lately, I've been having good luck with mussels, and this dish merely continued that trend. Delicately briny in savor, the mollusks were deftly complemented by the subtly spicy, garlicky fumet, which Gussin made from halibut bone stock.


6: BBT | applewood smoked bacon, basil, oven dried tomato
BBT: bacon / basil / tomato. Of note here is the Louisiana-sourced bacon, which Gussin chose over Hobbs' (a staple bacon at fine dining restaurants, including The French Laundry). Indeed, the bacon formed a fitting foil to the pungency of the basil, and I quite enjoyed the sweetness imparted by the tomato, as well as the bitter char of the crust. Overall, a very solid pizza.


To drink, New Belgium's Ranger IPA from Fort Collins, CO was next. Compared to the aforementioned Stone IPA, this was fruitier and softer, with a great, balancing maltiness.


Miniaturized versions of two of The Six's burgers were next.


7: Six Burger Slider | red onion rings, maytag blue, thousand island, butter lettuce, tomato
I first tried the Six Burger, basically the restaurant's take on the classic hamburger. Start with a tender, flavorful patty, cooked rare, augmented by the sharp tang of blue cheese. Then add in the crispy astringency of red onion rings and a slice of juicy tomato, all tied together by a dollop of thousand island. Classic flavors, aptly executed.


8: Banh Mi Slider | roasted pork belly, jalapeno jam, cilantro aioli, sweet pickled carrots, cucumber
This burgerized version of the classic Vietnamese banh mi was one of the dishes that helped Gussin secure his job here. The burger begins with a subtly-flavored, slightly vegetal pork patty, to which Gussin adds pork belly, giving the dish more heft. The tanginess of the pickled vegetables works as an effective temper to the gravity of the meat, but I would've liked to have seen more spice, and a more apparent use of cilantro.


For the scallops, a 2009 Brancott Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, with its fruity, floral character, was the chosen pairing.


9: Scallop | "scalloped" kennebec potato, chive jus
We had here a single seared diver scallop, as well a faux scallop composed of a kennebec potato cylinder topped with mornay sauce. The scallop itself was deftly cooked, preserving the bivalve's natural brininess and sea-tinged sweetness. The crux of the dish, though, was the potato and its cheesy topping, which added a fantastic weight to the course, especially when set off by the tang of the chive jus.


At this point, Gussin came out of the kitchen to show off his locally foraged chanterelle mushroom, which he'd just acquired and was about to use in the next course...


10: Local Halibut | truffled artichoke heart puree, topanga mountain chanterelles in natural jus
...A lovely preparation of Santa Barbara halibut. The fish itself was suitably tender, succulent, and beautifully flavored--I would've been happy just eating it alone. However, the dish was made even better by the earthiness contributed by the mushrooms, as well as the bitter tang of the arugula. Very nice.


Our next libation was the classic Lindemans Framboise, a Belgian Lambic with loads of sugary raspberry.


11: Broccoli Rabe Bisque | cheddar tuile, framboise head
Served in the same glass as the Lindemans was a soup of broccoli rabe, a.k.a. rapini. Taken alone, the bisque was quite pungent, bitter even, and rather overpowering. Thus, the cheese tuile was absolutely key in tempering the power of the rapini--it completed the dish for me.


12: Grant Achatz Hot Potato | cold potato, truffle, butter
Here was Gussin's homage to Grant Achatz's legendary "Hot Potato Cold Potato" dish at Alinea. After dropping in the spheres of potato into the gritty, vichyssoise-esque potage, I enjoyed the interplay between the warm, mild potato and the cool, truffle-tinged finish of the soup.


The final tipple of the night was the 2007 Xyzin Zinfandel 10 y.o. Vines, a delectable, juicy zin loaded with dark fruit and a bit of peppery spice.


13: Pastrami Spiced Prime NY | caraway spaetzle, "fresh" sauerkraut, roasted veal jus
Our last savory course was also one of my favorites. Based on the food that Gussin ate while growing up, this is his seemingly Moto-inspired deconstruction of a Reuben sandwich. The star here was clearly the perfectly cooked NY steak, done up with smoked pepper and salt. At the same time, the lightly tangy "sauerkraut" provided a great counterbalance to the meat, while the spaetzle was absolutely key, deftly emulating the essence of rye bread. Superb.


To conclude, a troika of dessert was brought before us.


14: Beignets | powdered sugar, fig jam
First up were beignets, dusted with powdered sugar and served with a quenelle of fig jam. Sweet and unctuous even, they reminded me of Chinese style you tiao!


15: Chocolate Chip Cookie Sandwich | strawberry-smoked black pepper ice cream
The problem here was that the cookies were far too hard--the dessert would've been markedly improved had warm, softer versions been used. Tough cookies notwithstanding, I adored the actual ice cream, with its subtly sweet strawberry flavor, tinged with just a hint of pepper.


16: Peanut Butter Cookie | bananas foster ice cream, candied pecans
Peanut butter doesn't sit too well with me, so naturally, I wasn't too keen on this last dessert. Nevertheless, I did appreciate the banana ice cream, as well as the bit of sweet nuttiness imparted by the pecans.


The Six's open kitchen is certainly on the small side. Most of the time, Gussin works solely with his Sous Chef Danny Somoza, though on busier nights, a third cook can be called in.

Surprisingly, the Six actually managed to exceed my expectations. The food is not without faults, but there's plenty of stuff that's going right here. I was very wary going in, but Gussin definitely knows what he's doing in the kitchen. If he can continue to deliver the energy, excitement, robustness, and flair that I experienced, then we'll have a winner on our hands.

Petrossian (West Hollywood, CA)

Petrossian
321 N Robertson Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90048
310.271.6300
www.petrossian.com/boutique.html
Mon 02/15/2010, 06:40p-11:30p




The story of Petrossian caviar goes back nearly a century, back to two Armenian brothers, Melkoum and Mouchegh Petrossian. Born on the Iranian side of the Caspian but raised on the Russian side, the Petrossian brothers immigrated to Paris during the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917. During the Roaring Twenties, the Petrossians took advantage of the influx of Russian natives to introduce caviar, little known at the time, to the French people. The roe quickly caught on, and since then, Petrossian, with its privileged ties to Russian fisheries, has remained one of the top caviar distributors in the world.

The company is now run by Armen Petrossian, Mouchegh's son, and has since expanded its offerings to include foie gras, smoked salmon, and chocolates, amongst other gourmet items. Petrossian also operates restaurants in New York, Las Vegas (at the Bellagio), and right here in West Hollywood. Formerly an outpost of caviar merchant Aristoff (which Petrossian acquired), Petrossian WeHo opened up as a retail shop in 2001. The place stayed under the radar for years, before closing for four months and reopening as the Petrossian Paris Boutique & Café in July 2009, this time with a full-fledged cafe, serving brunch, lunch, and dinner.

To helm the new restaurant, Petrossian tapped French native Benjamin Bailly. Hailing from Valenciennes in the Nord department of northeastern France, Bailly knew that he was destined to become a chef by the age of 14. After graduating from Lycée Hotelier Sainte-Jeanne D'arc in the commune of Aulnoye-Aymeries, the Chef eventually moved to London to work at the Sheraton Park Tower. In 2004, Bailly relocated to Saint-Tropez to cook at Alain Ducasse's Spoon at the Hotel Byblos. The next year, he transitioned to Restaurant de Joël Robuchon at Monaco's Hotel Metropole, working as a commis. Following a year-long stint there, Bailly moved to Paris, serving in an almost "corporate" capacity with Robuchon. During this period, he worked as a chef de partie at the Paris outpost of L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, but also helped open up other Robuchon restaurants around the globe.

Eventually, Bailly transferred to Las Vegas, where he toqued at Joël Robuchon at the Mansion (in fact, he cooked for me during my January 2008 visit there--small world!) before becoming a Sous Chef at L'Atelier. In 2009, Bailly was lured to Los Angeles, where he served a brief tenure under Christophe Émé at Ortolan. Interestingly, it was here where Bailly would meet Michael Cherney, who regular readers may remember as the culinary student who invited me to dinner at Bistro 31; Cherney currently serves as a poissonnier at L'Atelier Las Vegas. In May 2009, Bailly joined the Petrossian team as Executive Chef.

Perhaps (probably) because of Bailly, Petrossian has been getting an inordinate amount of press over the past months, with seemingly every food blogger worth his or her salt taking a crack at the place. Given all the publicity, I figured that it was finally time for me to give the place a shot. However, since the praises of Bailly's Black Truffle "Mac 'n' Cheese" and Napoléon Tartare have been sung countless times, I yearned for something special, something that hadn't been done before. Thus, I inquired about a custom menu, to show off the full extent of Bailly's abilities, unhampered by the constraints of Petrossian corporate--the Chef was more than happy to oblige. He even agreed to come in on a Monday (due to scheduling constraints, it was the only day I could come), normally one of his days off!



The old Petrossian underwent a significant remodel at the hands of designer David Davis of Studio Davis, with the room shown in the first photo transformed from office space to a retail/dining area, replete with a tall communal table and display cases for the company's luxurious wares. The second room, a more formal affair, sports black leather banquettes, black-and-white Tinseltown photos, and galucha-covered walls.


As mentioned above, I wanted to experience a departure from the norm at Petrossian, so a custom degustation was in order. I set a $120 per person budget, but other than that, Chef Bailly had carte blanche to come up with whatever he wanted--the resultant 12-course feast, comprised of typical menu items, new twists on standard dishes, and completely novel preparations, is shown above. Click for a larger version.


Petrossian offers a small selection of wine, and a smattering of beer. Apparently, they're working on getting a liquor license as well (martini with caviar-stuffed olive anyone?). Click for larger versions.


Upon being seated, we were quickly provided complementary glasses of Hibiscus Champagne [$12]. The sugariness of the hibiscus formed a fitting counter to the otherwise dry bubbly, while the flower itself tasted not unlike a Fruit Roll-Up!


1: Caviar Surprise | King crab, apple cider
We began with a decadent, seemingly Robuchon-inspired dish: crab in apple gelée, crème fraiche, and a generous portion of Transmontanus Classic Caviar, all layered in a Petrossian tin and served with blinis and brioche. I first tried a bite of the tiny ebony globules alone. Sourced from Sterling Caviar in Northern California, the white sturgeon roe was distinctly briny, yet subtle--very nice. I then broke through the stratum of eggs with the provided mother of pearl spoon, making sure to get a firm dollop of all three layers. I loved the interplay between the sweetness of the crab and cider, the salty roe, and the cool, mild crème fraiche. A mélange of classic flavors, but perfectly executed--this compared very favorably to Robuchon's version.


2: Steak Tartare | Sushi style, caviar
One of the most celebrated dishes at Petrossian is the Napoléon Tartare, composed of alternating layers of caviar and beef. For this very special dinner, Bailly turned to his love of sushi to create this makizushi-inspired steak tartare, served here wrapped in soy paper, with toasted bread, and topped with more of that fine Transmontanus Classic Caviar. As expected, the beef was suitably tender, and I really appreciated the meat's slight vegetal tang (in fact, I would've liked even more cilantro--it was a superb complement), set off by the delicate brininess of the caviar. This dish was rather difficult to eat, however; smaller pieces would be better.


To wash down all this caviar, Champagne was a natural pairing. We went with a bottle of the Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut, France NV [$82], fairly prototypical of the style, but perhaps with a bit more in terms of honey and ginger notes.


3: Foie Gras Crème Brûlée | Green apple espuma
Now normally, Bailly serves his foie crème brûlée with an accoutrement of fig marmalade. This time, however, he used a green apple foam instead. This was a fantastic decision. The apple provided a light, gossamer tartness that formed a faultless foil to foie's gravity. To that, the brûlée's caramelized top contributed a delightfully bitter crunchiness, and the whole amalgam was almost dessert-like in character, reminding me somewhat of the foie gras parfait I had at Per Se. This was clearly one of the highlights of the meal, and one of the best preparations of foie gras I've ever had, in fact.


4: Shrimp Papillote | Passion fruit, chili ginger sauce
Next was a standby from the regular menu, and a favorite of my dining companions. Here, I really appreciated the texture of the shrimp--it was just about perfectly cooked, with a wonderfully snappy, meaty consistency, paired with a subtly sweet sapor. Meanwhile, the included passion fruit and chili added a smattering of saccharine spice into the mix. You can almost think of this as sweet & sour shrimp tempura!


At this point, we were presented with bread and butter--and what a butter! Interleaved with bits of black truffle, it was simply the most intense version that I'd ever tasted. This was the first time where I'd actually taken the bread and butter home with me.


5: Mona Lisa Potato | Coddled egg, caviar
The "Mona Lisa" here actually refers to the type of potato, which I'd never encountered before. In any case, the potato was transformed into a silky smooth, delicately-flavored potage. Hiding below the surface, however, was a wonderfully runny, gently-cooked egg. Once I broke into it, the yolk spilled out, adding an fantastically immense heft to the dish, a perfect complement to the relative levity of the potato. The caviar, at the same time, punctuated the dish with its piercing saltiness. Gorgeous.


6: Maine Lobster Nage | Cantaloupe, nectarine
This next gamboge-hued dish consisted of an entire lobster tail, bathed in an almost bisque-like nage, accompanied by fruit. The broth was teeming with the positively heady aroma of lobster, augmented by an opulent, decadent butteriness. The various fruits, meanwhile, acted as a surprisingly good temper to the immense savoriness of the crustacean, and made for a nice temperature contrast to boot. The lobster, though, was a bit overdone for my tastes.


7: Caviar Pizza | Crème fraîche, capers, red onion
One of the more interesting items on Petrossian's menu is the caviar "pizza," served here in miniature form. The crème fraîche acted as the sauce, tying together all the other toppings. The caviar was quite apparent on the attack, but the finish was all about the tangy red onion. I quite enjoyed the "thin crust!"


8: Crispy Egg | Cippolini onion soubise, caviar
The Crispy Egg came in two versions: one using Pressed Caviar, and one using the same Transmontanus Classic that we'd be having. The pressed version was much more concentrated in flavor, with a firm, paste-like consistency--I preferred the standard roe. Getting back to the rest of the dish, I adored the luscious, runny egg yolk and its interaction with its crispy, savory, panko-esque batter, and how the onion contributed a lingering astringency to the dish. Superb.


9: Skate Wing Grenobloise | Crushed potato, brown butter, caper, sherry vinegar
Traditionally, Grenobloise refers to a preparation in which beurre noisette, capers, lemon, and parsley are used. Bailly's version was delightfully savory, with an absolutely marvelous pepperiness, perked up by the smack of the capers and vinegar gelée. The best part, though, was the fish's ridiculously tender consistency--it literally fell apart on my fork! My only issue was that the brown butter could be a bit overwhelming in certain bites. One of my dining companions even preferred this skate to a version at Le Bernardin--I'd agree.


10: Veal Sweet Bread | Baby spinach, hen of the wood, parmesan
Our last savory course consisted of sautéed throat sweetbreads, complemented with mushrooms, spinach, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. The sweetbreads were beautifully savory at first taste, transitioning to a mild, slightly gamy savor on the close. I loved the use of spinach in moderating the power of the thymus, while the maitakes contributed an earthy weight to the dish. My only complaint was that I would've liked a crisper consistency.


Pre-Dessert: Tsar Imperial Ossetra Caviar | Crème fraîche, blini
Chef Bailly surprised us with this "pre-dessert" course, comprised of dollops of Tsar Imperial Ossetra Caviar, a pricey roe retailing for $208 an ounce. Compared to the other caviar that we had, these tiny beads, awash in beautiful shades of onyx and olive, were much more refined in flavor, with a marked buttery, nutty character that was simply stupendous.


11: Pistachio Crème Brûlée | Macerated strawberry, hibiscus
The first dessert course was a remarkable crème brûlée, imbued with the ethereal essence of pistachio nut. The sweetness of the hibiscus and strawberry combined with the bitterness of the caramel to form a superb complement to the delectable, beautifully-flavored custard.


12: Gianduja Parfait | Hazelnut biscuit, vanilla mascarpone
Gianduja is, of course, a hazelnut-infused preparation of chocolate. Here, it's lip-smackingly sweet-nutty flavor was nicely balanced by the relatively mild mascarpone, while the hazelnut biscuit provided a wonderfully crisp textural element. The whole thing reminded me of a Ferrero Rocher!


As a digestif, Chef Bailly poured us complementary shots from his personal bottle of G.E. Massenez's Poire Williams, a pear-flavored eau de vie (fruit brandy) from Distillateur à Bassemberg in Alsace. The brandy's nose gave away pure, sweet hints of pear fruit, but on the palate, the eau de vie was suitably hot, yet refreshing, with a long, lingering finish. Nice!


After dinner, we were given a brief tour of Petrossian's rather small kitchen. With only four burners and not too much else, we were told that things can get rather hectic on busy nights. The limitations of the kitchen, unfortunately, also limit what can make it on the menu.

All in all, Bailly crafted a masterful, memorable experience for all of us, in the form of a 12-course extravaganza. The young chef clearly has technique in spades, and a clean, refined but relaxed style. The issue I see is that Bailly is not free to cook what he wants--everything must be scrutinized by headquarters. Famously, the Chef created a small plates menu (probably a wise choice, given the times), only to have the concept nixed. I was able to catch a glimpse of what Bailly is capable of when he's freed from the bondage of his corporate handlers. The higher-ups at Petrossian would be wise to loosen their grip on him and let the Chef do his thing, lest they lose Bailly for good.

Bastide (West Hollywood, CA) [2]

Bastide
8475 Melrose Pl, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.651.5950
www.fooddigger.com/13369/restaurant/ca/los-angeles/west-hollywood/bastide (FoodDigger, restaurant has no web site)
Tue 02/09/2010, 10:15p-12:45a





The moniker Bastide, referring to a Provençal country manor, may recall images of bucolic tranquility, but Joe Pytka's seminal Los Angeles eatery of the same name has been anything but. After opening in 2002 (in the spot of the old Manhattan Wonton Company and the French bastion Le Restaurant), the restaurant has seen numerous incarnations of itself, seemingly at the whim of its notoriously mercurial benefactor. Most recently, Pytka closed shop in late 2008, only to reopen (lunch only, tonight was the first dinner service) a year later on December 15, 2009, tacking on a bookstore (Assouline, asinine?) in the process. Oh Bastide, how do we love thee? Let us count the chefs: Alain Giraud (2000-2004), Ludovic Lefebvre (2004-2006), Walter Manzke (2007-2008), Paul Shoemaker (2008), Joseph Mahon (2009-"Pytka's next whim").

And speaking of Mr. Mahon, a proper biography: The Chef grew up in Orange County, and started cooking at local restaurants at the tender age of 16. After saving enough money, Mahon enrolled at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America. During his tenure at the CIA, he staged at numerous New York restaurants, including Daniel Boulud's famed Café Boulud, under Locanda Verde's Andrew Carmellini. Upon graduating in 2001, Mahon moved to Chambéry in southeast France to work at the Michelin-starred L'Essentiel. When he returned to the US, he was lured back to his former employer at Café Boulud, but then switched to David Bouley's now-defunct Danube in 2002. 2003 saw Mahon work a stint at the Mandarin Oriental's Asiate (under Chef de Cuisine Noriyuki Sugie) before returning to Bouley proper the following year.

California beckoned however, and Sugie eventually referred Mahon to David Myers, who hired him as a Sous Chef at Sona in 2005. After cooking with Myers for less than a year, the Chef quit to work as a sales rep for gourmet food supplier Village Imports/Epicure Imports/Made in France. It was a comfortable life for Mahon, but the cooking bug kept biting, and he eventually landed a Chef de Cuisine gig at the Fairmont Hotel in Newport Beach in 2006. Two years later, the Chef moved to Beverly Hills, to helm the kitchens at 208 Rodeo (whose web site, embarrassingly, still shows a photo of Mahon). After nearly two years there, he received an invitation to audition for Pytka. Mahon cooked up a 16-course feast for good ol' Joe, and the rest, I'll say, is history.



Bastide's decor has always been somewhat eclectic, capricious even, reflective of its owner, I'm sure. That much has not changed. The interior, however, has been spruced up somewhat--note the jungle-themed wallpaper (as seen at 9021Pho) and the shelves of books, glorious books!


The new menu's short, focused, sensibly-priced. We were told that tasting menus are available with advance notice, but we decided to make our own, ordering one of everything on the carte, in true kevinEats fashion (well, minus the items that the kitchen ran out of). Click for larger versions.


Bastide's new Sommelier Dario Dell'Anno has put together a compact, remarkably value-centric (there's a bottle for ten dollars for crying out loud) wine list. Of course, Pytka's legendary cellar is still intact and available for purchase if you prefer--try an 1816 Château d'Yquem Sauternes for $72,000! Click for larger versions.


The cocktail program at Bastide hasn't been established yet, so when we asked for some drinks to begin, Dell'Anno showed us his prowess in the spirits realm and whipped up two libations (both complementary). On the left, we see a concoction of Amaro Averna, Vermouth, Lemon Juice, and Gin. It was my first time with Amaro, a type of Italian liqueur. Its subtly sweet, herbaceous flavor made for a great base for the cocktail, which had an almost Port-like character along with a delightful gin-tinged finish. Next up was a commixture of Hennessey, Crème De Cassis, Gin, and Cucumber. This was a refreshing drink, with a lovely sugariness from the cassis, and a hint of cucumber that just creeps up on you!


Bread service consisted of a sweetish berry-nut bread, a quintessential dinner roll, and my favorite, a crusty, savory, superb olive bread. Butter, meanwhile, was served with radish.


WATERCRESS CUSTARD [$11.00] | MEYER LEMON, WARM GRILLED SHRIMP
The meal got off to a strong start. I loved the interaction here between the simultaneously sweet, briny shrimp and the vegetal tang of the watercress, present here in an almost paste-like form. At the same time, I really appreciated how the olive added a palpable weight on the finish, while the lemon gave things a bright acidity.


SPINACH TART [$9.00] | PANCETTA, CRÈME FRAICHE, HAZELNUTS, FRISEE SALAD
Eating this, I couldn't help but compare the tart to a quiche Florentine! The combination of spinach, cream, and buttery crust was classic, but also immensely effective. Taking things further, the pancetta (cured pork belly) added a fantastic, salty gravity to the dish, countered by the frisée.


At this time, we enjoyed a complementary glass of Guy Larmandier Champagne Cramant, a dry, crisp bubbly, prototypical of the style.


YELLOWTAIL [$14.00] | SHAVED VEGETABLES
The fish itself was delightfully savory, even smoky, with a perfect texture. As good as the yellowtail was on its own, having it with the various vegetables was phenomenal, with the greens providing a fitting foil to the weightiness of the hamachi. I don't hesitate in calling this one of the best preparations of yellowtail sashimi I've ever had.


GRILLED SQUID [$10.00] | CUCUMBER, FENNEL, CRANBERRY BEANS, CHORIZO BUTTER
Fantastic texture on the squid here--I was instantly reminded of the wonderful calamari that I'd had recently over at Julian Serrano. I really enjoyed the squid's faultless combination of sweet and briny flavors, and how the contrasting essences of the beans and cucumber superbly complemented the cephalopod.


SCALLOP [$15.00] | BRAISED CRAB, TOMATO CONFIT, BASIL BROTH
The top of this scallop, in all its Bloomin' Onion-esque glory, was for more than just show. Rather, it resulted in a wondrous textural progression: soft and tender on the bottom, crisp and firm up top. Taste-wise, the use of crab augmented and emboldened the bivalve's natural brininess, while the pungency of the basil formed an effective temper to the sweetness imparted by the tomato.


ONION SOUP [$11.00] | BRAISED BEEF SHANK, KIDNEY BEANS, MARROW TOAST
Think of this as your traditional French onion soup, but better. We're talking about hearty, earthy, rustic, dark, incredibly savory flavors, intermixed with the marked sweetness of caramelized onion. Delicious.


For our first bottle of wine, we asked Dell'Anno to "surprise us." He came back with a 2005 Johann Donabaum Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Spitzer Point [$75], which was an off-wine list selection. This was your classic food-friendly Wachau Grüner, bracingly minerally, unabashedly crisp, with subtle floral notes.


FRISEE [$14.00] | BACON, POACHED EGG, CRISPY CHICKEN THIGHS, SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE
Our first of four salads was your prototypical frisée (which we've been seeing on menus more and more often as of late), done up with fried chicken. The chicken itself was suitably tender and succulent, imbued with a subtly sweet-spicy character to boot. The salad, a great interplay of creamy egg, salty bacon, and light frisée, was similarly delectable on its own. However, I'm not sure if I was quite sold on the pairing of the two elements (but the dish was pretty damn good in any case).


ENDIVE [$15.00] | WALNUTS, WATERCRESS, CABRALES, PLUMS, HONEY-VINAIGRETTE
Here, I loved the juicy, refreshing crispness and brightness of the salad. The relationship of the bitter endive with the sweet fruit was key, while the Cabrales added a pleasantly pungent gravity to things.


ASPARAGUS [$14.00] | HERB SALAD, ALMONDS, MEYER LEMON AIOLI
I'm somewhat of an asparagus slut, so I was looking forward to this one. The asparagus alone was deftly done, and the interaction between the astringent vegetable and the sweet nuttiness of the almonds really worked for me. I certainly didn't mind the tartness of the aioli, either.


BIBB LETTUCE [$11.00] | SHALLOT, FETA, SHERRY VINAIGRETTE
Some very classic flavor profiles at play here. I quite liked the soft, buttery complexion of the lettuce leaves, and how the Bibb formed a base on which the salty feta and wonderfully tangy vinaigrette could shine.


RED WINE RISOTTO [$20.00] | WILD MUSHROOMS, PARMESAN
This really reminded me of a similar "Riso di Valpolicella" I'd had recently at Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder. Imagine cheesy, savory rice, imbued with just a hint of red wine flair, all augmented by the earthy weight of mushrooms. Tasty, but a bit too forward for me.


SALMON [$28.00] | POTATO PUREE, SUGAR SNAP PEAS, PEARL ONIONS, PORT WINE SAUCE
The salmon turned out to be out of my favorites of the meal. I positively adored its fantastically rare, tender consistency (reminding me of a salmon that I'd had at Le Bernardin) and brazenly briny flavor. And the peas? A perfect accoutrement.


COD [$26.00] | ORZO, TURNIPS, CARROTS, ARUGULA, MUSSEL CREAM
Much to my surprise, the cod was actually very light, delicate even, in flavor. Thus, the mussels, with their marked brininess, were instrumental in adding depth and power to the dish. I also appreciated the orzo pasta here, but wasn't so much of a fan of the carrots, which I found overly sweet.


For our next bottle, we also asked the Sommelier to choose for us, and Dell'Anno came up with the 2001 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Petite Chapelle [$104], an off-the-list pick, too. Think peppery, slightly hot, earthy, tannic, with lean dark fruit flavors.


BRAISED LAMB SHANK [$32.00] | COCO BEANS, PRESERVED LEMON, ARUGULA SAUCE
Our first meat course was this imposing-looking lamb leg. As expected for a braised preparation, the meat was falling-off-the-bone tender (I'm not sure if I needed to chew), bursting with rich, dark, fatty, flavors. The beans and arugula, meanwhile, did an admirable job in trying to temper the power of the lamb.


CHICKEN [$27.00] | CELERY ROOT PUREE, RED CABBAGE, BRUSSEL SPROUTS, WHOLE GRAIN MUSTARD-CHICKEN JUS
Next was a tender, silky, straightforward portion of chicken, with an enchantingly savory skin. What did it for me with this dish was the interplay between the bird and the astringent, bitter Brussels sprouts. However, I wasn't a huge fan of the celeriac purée, which I found distracting.


STEAK FRITES [$34.00] | ANCHOVIE BUTTER
We closed with perhaps the quintessential bistro dish. Taken alone, the steak reminded me of a more tender version of the meat that I'd had at Church & State. What set this dish apart, though, was the anchovy butter, which added an intense, fishy saltiness to the beef that I rather enjoyed (not everyone at the table did, however). Frites, meanwhile, were first-rate.


Desserts come courtesy of Pastry Chef Rommel De Leon, most recently the Pastry Sous Chef at Rivera (BondSt, too). Click for a larger version.


We were given complementary pours of the 1999 Murana Martingana Moscato di Pantelleria Passito, a rich, viscous, almost Port-like wine that stood its own against De Leon's desserts.


ESPRESSO CHIFFON CAKE [$12.00] | ESPRESSO CREAM, CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM, TOFFEE CAKE
I'm not a huge fan of coffee in general, so I wasn't expecting much here. Fortunately, the notes of espresso in this dish weren't overwhelming at all. The chocolate ice cream wasn't particularly original, but was effectual nevertheless.


VANILLA CRÈME CARAMEL [$12.00] | STRAWBERRY AND ORANGE CHIPS, STAR ANISE JUS
In terms of taste, the flan was fairly tame, subtle. The crux, thus, was the tartness imparted by the dehydrated fruit (which also added a nice crunchiness), and the wonderful spice provided by the anise.


CITRUS CONSOMMÉ [$13.00] | YOGURT SHERBET, MANGO, TAPIOCA CREAM
Here, it was all about the mild, soft, subtly sour sorbet, and its relation with the sweet, juicy, tantalizingly tart mango. The bits of fruit "caviar," meanwhile, mixed things up texturally.


APPLE TART [$13.00] | SALTED CARAMEL, RAW VANILLA ICE MILK
Our final dish of the night was a classic apple tart. It was a simple, but worthwhile dessert, with the slight spice of the apples playing beautifully with the moderating ice milk. One of my dining companions, a self-professed apple tart fiend, even gave his eager nod of approval.

And there we have it. The new Bastide. Gone are the esoteric eccentricities of meals past, replaced with "accessible," top-notch brasserie-inspired food. On one hand, I miss the vagary, the conceit, the no-holds-barred approach of yesteryear, but at the same time, I appreciate, and understand, what Mahon's doing--this is much more than mere "bistro" fare. Bastide is off to an amazingly strong start: every dish was good, many were great. Right here, right now, this just feels right. Welcome back Bastide--don't leave us again.

Hatfield's (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

Hatfield's
6703 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.935.2977
www.hatfieldsrestaurant.com
Mon 02/01/2010, 09:10p-12:00a




On August 8, 2009, Hatfield's served up its last Croque Madame. Fortunately for us Angelenos, the shutter was only temporary. Indeed, this bastion of contemporary Cal/French cuisine was merely relocating to a new address: 6703 Melrose, the site previously occupied by Tim and Liza Goodell's pan-Asian eatery Red Pearl Kitchen. Prior to that, the space was home to the Goodell's small plates concept Meson G, Alex Scrimgeour's Alex, and Michel Richard's legendary Citrus. The rationale behind the move was that the Hatfields simply wanted a bigger space, in order to take the restaurant to the next step, with a larger menu, lunch and dinner, seven days a week--in other words, the new spot is designed to be permanent. The transition was initially slated to be completed by November 2009, but as usual, the schedule slipped, and a new opening date of February 1st was announced in January. Given my positive experience at the old restaurant, it was a foregone conclusion that I would give the new Hatfield's a whirl, opening night, of course. Joining me were Fiona of Gourmet Pigs and Ryan of Epicuryan, and I even ran into Helen of I'm Hungry.




The previous dining room was famously small, seating around 50 diners on a good day. This new space, designed by Alexis Readinger of Preen Design (Akasha, Philippe Chow), doubles the restaurant's capacity. The decor preserves the essence, the intimacy, the simple sophistication of the old space, but kicks things up several notches in terms of refinement and artistry--note the "living" wall, the "molecular" honeycomb chandelier.


Diners in the rear of the room are treated to expansive views of the restaurant's gleaming new kitchen.


Hatfield's was arguably best known for its seven-course, tandem tasting menus. Unfortunately, that format wasn't quite ready yet, so we were given a choice between à la carte and four-course Seasonal Prix-Fixe options; we went with the latter, at $58 per person (adding on supplements, naturally). Lunch, as mentioned above, will be available in the coming months. Click for larger versions.


More exciting perhaps is the new beverage program, designed by new GM-cum-sommelier/mixologist Peter Birmingham (of Pourtal fame). There is, naturally, a strong wine list, but what piqued my interest was the cocktail selection, featuring both classic and modern libations. And apparently, with the new bar comes a separate bar menu--oh my! Click for larger versions.


Cocktails, naturally, to start. I chose the Chimayo [$10], a sweet, sour, spicy, delicious drink made with Arette Blanco tequila, cassis, apple cider, and lemon juice. Fiona went with my old mainstay and ordered up the Candied Kumquat Mojito [$11], comprised of 10 Cane rum, pineapple, smashed kumquat, lime, and mint; think of your classic mojito, but with a great sugary citrus tinge.


Bread was described by our server as sourdough, but it didn't taste like it to me. Sweet, spicy, and nearly unctuous, it had an almost you tiao-esque character to it. Butter, meanwhile, was mild and subtly sweet, topped with chive.


Supplement: Frisée and Smoked Trout Salad [$12.00] | Apple, avocado, warm fingerling potatoes in grainy mustard butter
All our supplemental courses came out at once, and first up was this frisée salad. The actual bits of trout were somewhat difficult to pick out, but the fish's smoky, briny essence was apparent in spades. I quite enjoyed the unabashed saltiness at play here, perked up by the salad's tangy dressing, as well as the fantastic moderating effect of the potato. The tuber also added an interesting textural element, and I likewise appreciated the crisp sweetness of the apple.


Supplement: Agnolotti [$9.00] | Mustard greens and ricotta agnolotti, parsnip, cinnamon banyuls
The agnolotti looked appealing on the menu, but wasn't nearly as successful as I'd hoped for. Though texturally, the pasta was almost spot on, the dish was overwhelmed by the intense spicy-sweet sapor of the cinnamon banyuls. The ricotta was almost completely masked, and was only slightly apparent on the finish.


Supplement: Beet Cured Japanese Fluke [$11.00] | Herbed yogurt, pickled shallots, buckwheat crisps
How do you make fluke look like tuna? Give it a beet bath! Besides adding a dash of amaranth to the fish, the beet also contributed a very soft sweetness that went quite well with the fluke's naturally delicate flavor. I appreciated the fish's soft, supple consistency, and the great crunchiness provided by the buckwheat.


Supplement: Warm Cuttlefish Salad [$10.00] | Maitake mushrooms, sunchoke purée, baby arugula, artichoke chips
Here we have a dish that I had on my last Hatfield's visit. On that occasion, I wrote that "the cuttlefish itself could've been a bit more apparent." Fortunately, the subtle brine of the cephalopod was indeed much more conspicuous this time around, and I quite liked its interaction with the earthy gravity of the maitakes.


With our supplements dispensed with, it was time for another round of drinks--beer this time. I went with Anderson Valley Brewing's Hop Ottin' India Pale Ale [$7], an intensely hoppy, bitter brew, but one with a delightful spicy-floral character. Ryan had the Weihenstephaner "Original" Lager [$9], a light, malty, refreshing beer from the "world's oldest brewery."


1a: Charred Japanese Mackerel | Oven dried pineapple, avocado, fried shallots, nori infused salsa verde
The fishiness often associated with mackerel can be overbearing at times, so it's interesting to see what chef's do to moderate the power of the fish. Here, the key was the pineapple. Its sweetness was a critical part of the dish, while I also enjoyed the lush creaminess of the avocado bits. The fried shallots, meanwhile, gave things a nice crunch.


1b: Pan Roasted Diver Scallops | Braised celery, salsify, apple froth
I despise celery, so things were not looking good here. Fortunately, the veggie wasn't as offensive as I'd feared here, adding a pronounced, but not unpleasant backbone to the dish. The scallops themselves were a bit too thin for me (I couldn't really enjoy their texture), but I did appreciate the interplay between the savoriness of the bivalve, the tang of the celery, and the sugariness provided by the apple.


2a: Prawns a la Plancha Espelette | Creamy crab rice, roasted peanuts, preserved lemon, mint
The kitchen was definitely channeling the flavors of Asia here. The prawns had a delectable, almost Thai-style spicy kick to them, and were beautifully complemented by the bits of peanut. The coconut savor of the rice, heightened by hints of mint, definitely moved the dish even more in that direction. Very nice.


2b: Olive Oil Poached Alaskan Halibut | Orange scented beets, horseradish crème fraîche, herbed pepita crust
The halibut was probably my favorite dish of the night. The fish was cooked to a ridiculously tender and juicy consistency, with a delightfully salty, yet delicate sapor. The crux of the dish, though, were the pepitas (pumpkin seeds). They added a perfect smoky nuttiness to the halibut that really took this dish to the next level.


For our main courses, we took advantage of the new bar and ordered up some more cocktails, classics this time. I had the Dark & Stormy [$9], with Gosling's Black Seal rum, lime, and Bundaberg ginger beer. After mixing everything together, I likened it to an adult ginger ale! Ryan chose another rum-based drink, the Daiquiri [$9]. Composed of Ron Methuselum, Maraska cherry, lime, and grapefruit juice, its sour-sweet taste reminded me of Chinese suan mei (pickled sour plums).


3a: Long Island Duck Breast | Whisky prune smear, butternut squash, porcini quinoa porridge
Taken alone, the duck was very flavorful, and very good. With the prune smear and quinoa, it developed an almost Chinese roast duck-like character that I absolutely loved. Unfortunately, the squash was completely unnecessary, with an overt sweetness that detracted from the bird.


3b: Horseradish Dusted Short Ribs and Hanger Steak | Spring onion confit, smoked potato puree
This was another dish that I'd had at the old Hatfield's. Again, I started with the short rib, delightfully tender, but still with a bit of bite. Ryan described it as having an almost "hot dog" flavor, while I enjoyed its mild earthy smokiness when paired with the potatoes. The steak had a more forceful flavor, with a tender, yet "toothsome" texture. I did have to be careful with the included onion confit though, which could dominate the beef if taken in large amounts.


The Prix-Fixe option includes your choices of dessert. Click for larger versions.


4a: Lime Cream "Pie" [$10.00] | Gingersnap crust, oatmeal crumble, citrus chamomile ice cream
The key here for me was the interaction between sweet and sour. The lime cream gave the dessert a tangy base on which the various accoutrements could work; I especially liked the refreshing apple-like flavor of the ice cream. And the gingersnap crust? Crisp, crumbly, fantastic.


4b: Coconut Custard "Macaroon" [$10.00] | Marinated pineapple, vanilla tapioca, passion fruit-elderflower sorbet
Here, we had a core of coconut custard intermixed with vanilla tapioca pearls. The saccharine pineapple and tartish sorbet then added layers of flavor on top. The best part of this dessert, though, was the admixture of disparate textures.


4c: Chocolate "Nutella" [$10.00] | Ganache cake, butterscotch rosemary ice cream, hazelnut toffee
Here we have a fairly classic pairing of chocolate cake with ice cream, with the added wrinkle of rosemary, which gave the dessert a beautiful astringency. At the same time, I loved the crunch added by the hazelnuts, but I wish that their flavor would've been a bit more apparent.


4d: Cinnamon Swirl Brioche Pudding [$10.00] | Pear confit, maple syrup ice cream, cinnamon toast chip
Finally, we have here the kitchen's version of a bread pudding, a marvelous one at that. I adored the soft, yielding texture of the pudding, as well as its creamy-spicy-sweet flavor, tarted up by the application of pear.

Reflecting on my last Hatfield's visit, I expressed concern that Quinn and Karen might not be able to translate the old restaurant's intimacy, honesty, and vision to a larger venue. I'm happy to report that Hatfield's is back with a vengeance. With the addition of new menus, new libations, new dining options, methinks that Hatfield's is well-poised to outdo its former self. Welcome back.