Sunday, September 29, 2013

Makoto (Washington, DC)

Makoto Restaurant
4822 MacArthur Blvd NW, Washington, DC 20007
202.298.6866
www.makotorestaurantdc.com
Sun 09/29/2013, 06:00p-08:10p




Makoto Exterior

After having dinner at one of DC's most progressive restaurants the previous night, I now went to one of the area's most traditional, and certainly one of the longest standing. Makoto opened in 1992, and was sort of groundbreaking for the era, exposing the City to old-school, kaiseki-inspired Japanese cooking that was pretty much absent at the time. This shoebox of a space, perhaps best known for its slippers-only policy (your shoes are exchange at the foyer), has been family owned and operated since its inception. The first chef was Yoshiaki Itoh, who ran the place from inception until his retirement at the end of 2011 (unfortunately, he passed away just this past September). In 2012, Yoshi's son Susumu "Gene" Itoh took the reins, leaving his previous occupation as a health care recruiting consultant, and the restaurant doesn't appear to have skipped a beat.

Makoto Menu Makoto Drink Menu
As far as Makoto's menu goes, it's a seasonally-changing progression of eight to ten courses at a base price of $70, plus additional sashimi supplements starting at $10 and going all the way up to $50. You can also order à la carte, but I wouldn't recommend it, and there's also a lunch option, too. To drink, you'll find a small selection of sakes and wines, as well as a smattering of beers. Click for larger versions.

Bon Nama Genshu, Junmai Daiginjyo
Sake seemed like the right choice of beverage this evening, so I opted for a carafe of the Bon Nama Genshu, Junmai Daiginjyo [$65]. I rather liked this one, finding it viscous in body, with a marked sweetness intermingled with alcoholic notes, all over an undercurrent of rice-y nuances.

Kabura Mushi Matsutake
1: Kabura Mushi & Matsutake
The meal commenced with a duet of dishes. The first was a kabura mushi, a mushimono of steamed turnip with a miso and walnut sauce. Think mild, and slightly firm on the turnip, with the sauce adding a nutty, earthy component to the mix, brightened up by the use of snow peas. The matsutakes, meanwhile, came with momiji oroshi (spicy radish) ponzu and was much more intense, with the mushrooms' woody nose and great crunch working well against the spicy, zesty notes present.

Mushi Tai
2: Mushi Tai
Steamed snapper was served with shiitake and tofu. The fish itself conveyed a subtle, yet focused brine that really worked for me, countered by the soft, delicate tofu while the veggies added a bit of levity to things. Nice weight from the mushroom, too, and I liked how that tangy sauce sort of tied everything together.

Sashimi Wasabi
3: Sashimi
Here was the optional upgraded tsukuri course, which rang in at an additional $50 and comprised eight items total, all served with fresh-grated wasabi:
  • Amaebi - Creamy and sweet, though I would've preferred a snappier, crunchier variety of shrimp.
  • Toro - Melty, fatty, and nicely opened up by a dab of wasabi and house-made soy.
  • Ikura - Bursts of salty and smoky goodness, tempered by the use of cucumber.
  • Shima Aji - Delicate and slightly firm to the bite, and excellent with a touch of soy sauce.
  • Uni - Very lush and sugary initially, but with a lingering brine toward the back end.
  • Sake - Firm and crisp, with a creeping salinity and a marked fattiness.
  • Mebaru - A rarity in sashimi form, rockfish was pleasantly mild, and greatly enhanced with a bit of wasabi.
  • Tai - A quintessential presentation of bream, delicate and soft-spoken.
Soft Shell Crab
4: Soft Shell Crab
Next, for my agemono course I had a pretty unique presentation of soft shell crab, one coated in rice cracker, fried, and served with streaks of chile salt, sansho, and green tea salt. I loved the texture and crunch on it, which reminded me of the pretzel-crusted oysters I'd had not long ago at Salt Air. Taste-wise, the crab showed off a subtle brine that worked well with the rice cracker, and was really brought out via a squirt of lemon. The trio of salts were also on point, the chili presenting a tinge of heat, the green tea a touch of astringency, and the sansho a multifaceted spice with a slight numbing quality.

Tara Saikyoyaki
5: Tara Saikyoyaki
The yakimono course brought me grilled black cod, marinated in saikyo miso, Makoto's take on the ubiquitous dish popularized by Nobu Matsuhisa. It was a perfect presentation of the classic, with the fish coming out hot, flaky, and buttery, deftly set off by just a touch of sweetness and the bitterness of the charred bits. Very tasty.

Shabu-Shabu
6: Shabu-Shabu
Now, for some shabu shabu, with salmon, scallop, shrimp, radish, and udon. I started off with the scallop, which was great, but unfortunately I left the shrimp in for too long, so it came out a tad overcooked, but was still enjoyable nonetheless. Salmon, meanwhile, was soft, lush, and saline, a great foil to the bitter cuts of radish, while the noodles served as a comforting finish to the course.

Sushi
7: Sushi
Sushi formed the penultimate course in the set menu, and three varieties of nigiri were offered. In the front was aburi sake, basically a partially grilled salmon that was fantastic, with a great smoky character that perfectly balanced the fat in the bite. Next was yellowtail, a classic presentation that really called for a dab of soy sauce, while bringing up the rear was the flounder filet, which conveyed a good balance of tangy, yet slightly smoky flavors.

Ryokucha
A steaming cup of green tea marked the end of the meal proper.

Makoto Sushi Menu
With the set menu finished, I had the option of ordering additional sushi courses, which I gleefully took advantage of. Click for a larger version.

Sushi Supplement
Sushi Supplement
Sushi was presented on one platter, rather than individually, which was unfortunate:
  • Shima Aji [$10] - I started with the striped jack, a great example of the fish with a spot on texture and a lovely sweet-ish character; even better with a touch of 'sabi.
  • Sawara [$6] - Spanish mackerel was lightly cooked, and thus displayed a satisfyingly meaty bite; excellent when taken with the accompanying yuzukosho.
  • Unagi [$5] - Utterly traditional, and just what you'd want, a sweet, fatty presentation of freshwater eel.
  • Tamago [$3] - Sweet and cool, with a deft seaweed counter.
  • Negitoro Temaki [$15] - Last up was the classic tuna-scallion handroll, a textbook representation of the dish with the fattiness of the tuna flawlessly moderated by the zesty bits of negi mixed within.
Sake Kasu Ice Cream
8: Sake Kasu Ice Cream
Dessert comprised a delightful sake lees ice cream with persimmon. It was really simple, but also really good, with the boozy, ricey ice cream pairing gorgeously with the sugary bits of fruit. Nice!

Makoto's one of the few bastions of old-school Japanese culinary tradition in the DC area, and in terms of the food, I didn't really have any serious complaints, finding the cooking clean and classic in essence, and very ingredient-focused and subtle, just as it should be. I do feel there's room for improvement in terms of the experience, though. The actual service was efficient and cordial, but I'd really like to have some more interactions with the itamae; I was sitting at the bar, and nary a word was said the entire two-hour meal. The cooks were partially hidden behind some red curtains, and perhaps that was meant to quell any attempt at conversation? I'd also like to see sushi courses served individually, which is pretty much the norm when sitting at the bar, and the menu could stand to be simplified as well. In the end though, Makoto's been open for over 20 years, so I don't exactly expect things to change.

Saturday, September 28, 2013

Rogue 24 (Washington, DC)

Rogue 24
922 N St NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.408.9724
www.rogue24.com
Sat 09/28/2013, 06:00p-08:30p




Rogue 24 Exterior

Other than Minibar, one of the places that I'd really been looking forward to trying in DC was Rogue 24. The brainchild of Chef RJ Cooper, Rogue is a bit of an odd duck, housed in a nearly 90-year-old, garage-like building situated along Blagden Alley. The place opened in 2011, and I'd actually wanted to visit back then, but the Chef's controversial views on restaurant photography ("intellectual property theft" and all that) kept me away for fear of being chewed out. However, Cooper eventually softened his stance and gave up his fight against technology in early 2012, thus paving the way for my experience this evening.

About the Chef: R.J. Cooper III hails from Detroit, and got the cooking itch at a young age, watching his mother and grandmother do their thing in the kitchen. During high school, he apprenticed at a local bake shop, and later enrolled at Kendall College's School of Culinary Arts in Evanston, IL. After graduating in 1991, he quickly relocated to Atlanta, finding work at the Ritz-Carlton Downtown under Daniel Schaffhauser (now at Tender Greens in Pasadena, interestingly), the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead under Guenter Seeger, and Brasserie Le Coze under Gilbert Le Coze. From there, Cooper transitioned to Le Bernardin, where Le Coze was Chef/Owner until his untimely death in 1994. He stayed on through Eric Ripert's tenure there, then moved to Alaska for three years, where he turned around the Crow's Nest restaurant at the Hotel Captain Cook in Anchorage.

Cooper moved to DC in the late 1990's, cooking at The Oval Room and New Heights before taking the reins at Toka Cafe in early 2002. He stayed there until October 2004, when he assumed the Chef de Cuisine position at Jeffrey Buben's iconic Vidalia. It was there where the he really began making a name for himself, securing StarChefs' "Rising Star Chef" award in 2006 before winning "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" from James Beard the following year. Things were going comfortably until 2010, when Cooper had a life-changing meal at Bryan Voltaggio's Table 21 at Volt. Afterward, he instituted his own 24-course menu entitled Vidalia 24, but soon decided to leave the venerable restaurant, clocking out in June.

The initial idea was to open a more casual concept called Pigtails, a nod to the Chef's infatuation with pork as well as his own twin daughters. However, an investor--none other than Hilda Staples (Volt/Lunchbox/Family Meal/Range with Voltaggio, Graffiato/Kapnos with Mike Isabella)--convinced him to go the Rogue 24 route. Cooper took a break from the restaurant later that year to challenge Marc Forgione on Iron Chef America, losing in a bell pepper battle, then did a Rogue 24 preview/pop-up in New York in April 2011. Rogue eventually opened on July 27th to considerable controversy, all because of a contentious contract that diners were forced to sign, one that forbade camera and cell phone use, and subjected patrons to stiff cancellation penalties. The contract was quickly revised after the initial outrage, then removed altogether when reservations were transitioned over to the CityEats system. Things, however, continued to be rough for Cooper. His pastry team of Chris Ford and Gregory Baumgartner left in September, followed out the door by GM-slash-Sommelier Matthew Carroll in November. If that wasn't bad enough, the Chef soon found out that he had to undergo open-heart surgery in January to take care of a life-threatening genetic heart defect.

The surgery, fortunately, ended up going well, and in Cooper's absence, a slew of chefs took turns running the kitchen at Rogue 24, including heavy hitters such as Voltaggio and even José Andrés. After these so-called "Rogue Sessions," the Chef returned in March, and soon added on a shorter eight-course Evolution menu to complement the existing 16- and 24-course options. Further retooling following in August, when the 16-courser was axed, replaced by a four-course prix fixe with larger portions. The restaurant also announced a "gastro-bar concept" called RogueSpirits that was supposed to take over the space next door; however, this eventually morphed into SpiritsBar, a four-seat, reservations-required bar in the back of Rogue.

Currently, the team here at Rogue 24 includes Chef de Cuisine Mark McDonnell, Pastry Chef Giane Cavaliere, and Chef-Tender Bryan Tetorakis, who runs the aforementioned SpiritsBar. These days, Cooper's busy working on Gypsy Soul, his second solo project that's going to be set in the Mosaic District, a retail-residential development in Virginia's Fairfax/Merrifield area. In March, Cooper cooked a preview dinner at the James Beard House, but the restaurant is apparently held up in permitting hell, and is now targeting a spring 2014 debut.

Rogue 24 Menu
Rogue 24 offers up three menu options: the 24-course Journey for $135 (what I had), the 16-course Progression for $115, and the four-course Prix Fixe for $75, all available with beverage pairings ranging in price from $55 to $120. And, as mentioned above, there's also the four-seater SpiritsBar and its mini tasting-cum-cocktail menu, which is ostensibly also available at the RogueSalon out front. Click for a larger version.

crossroads
crossroads [$12.00] | belle meade bourbon/pink pepper/hibiscus/cola/lime
Given that I had work almost immediately following the meal, I eschewed the wine pairing in favor of a few of Bryan Tetorakis' cocktails. The first was the Crossroads, which had a medicinal tinge to it initially, laced with the tartness of lime. This then transitioned to the sugary-boozy influences from the Bourbon, while the finish was all about a sweet spiciness taking over. A very cool evolution of flavors in this long drink.

porcini
1: porcini | meringue/chicken liver/xo vinegar
This little dollop comprised a porcini meringue encasing chicken liver and sherry vinegar. It was a delicious start to the meal, the mushroom growing in intensity before giving way to the sweet, earthy essence of liver. A winning combination.

puff
2: puff | prawn/whitefish/ossetra/dill
Cooper's elevated prawn cracker was divine, the slight ocean-y taste of the crisp chip beautifully augmented by the in-your-face saltiness of caviar. I wanted a whole bag of these.

kushi
3: kushi | cucumber/finger lime caviar
A singular Kusshi oyster showed off a strong salinity, one counteracted by the tangy vesicles of finger lime, all while the cucumber imbued the course with a clean, refreshing finish.

pinenut
4: pinenut | arctic char roe/dill
Shortbread topped with char roe and dill was pretty fantastic, the sweetness of the cookie moving beautifully to the interplay between salty-smoky and herbaceous flavors.

chicharone
5: chicharone | b.b.q. spice
Crunchy chicharrónes of pork belly, dusted with chili, were delish, the intensely earthy, porcine flavors here balanced by a creeping bit of spice.

shiso
6: shiso | rau-ram
A fried leaf of purple shiso was surprisingly substantial, and conveyed a rather profound savoriness to it that melded flawlessly with the piquant aioli of Vietnamese coriander.

lick of caviar
7: lick of caviar
Smeared on a sort of palette (held in place via pinky) were a blini purée and various constituents of caviar. I was instructed to lick the plate in one fell swoop, and in doing so, the classic flavors of the roe were dutifully, accurately, and whimsically portrayed.

hamachi
8: hamachi | fresno pepper/puffed barley/coconut/coriander
Cured yellowtail--served with a coconut espuma, microcilantro, puffed barley, and fresno chile--was delicious, and smart at the same time. The fish really worked well as a base to the dish, the coconut coming to the forefront initially before transitioning to contrasting flavors of lime, pepper, and what I believe was black bean.

avocado lavash
9: avocado | sake salmon roe/cilantro/togarashi/lavash
Avocado brûlée arrived smudged atop a rock, dotted with ikura, togarashi, lemon, and olive oil. There was such a great amalgam of flavors here, of complementary creamy, tangy, and smoky nuances that came together in concert--I wanted to lick the rock when I was done. My only quibble? The lavash wasn't absolutely necessary, and seemed a touch stale to boot.

sepia
10: sepia | samphire/potato/ink/lime
Cuttlefish was pretty revelatory, probably the best presentation of the ingredient I've had in fact. Texturally, it was spot on, with a supple snap to it that I loved. Meanwhile, contrasting thrusts of potato, romesco, squid ink, and sea grass resulted in a harmony of seemingly classic, yet somehow modern flavors that perfectly highlighted the sepia.

bro hymm
bro hymm [$14.00] | botanist gin/apple brandy/amère nouvelle/pale ale/ginger
An apparent ode to Pennywise, the Bro Hymm was a tasty one as well: ginger-y and herb-y on the nose, with plenty of sweet apple and bitterness on the palate.

urchin
11: urchin | rice/seaweed/coffee
Next up: a bowl of uni with coffee espuma, lemon, and black rice. The dish was instantly Japanese-y in character, with the unflappable combo of urchin and seaweed conveyed against the astringent zip of the coffee, all while the rice imparted a lovely crunch and savor to things.

foie gras
12: foie gras | consommé/honey/ice lettuce
Foie gras was expertly prepared, and displayed all the richness and lushness that you'd expect, set against the sweetness of the duck-onion broth and honeycomb crisps. It was a classic, effective combination, gorgeously balanced by the greenery on the plate. However, I would've liked a less crunchy consistency on the honeycomb, which seemed jarring at times texturally.

pigtails
13: pigtails | bitter herbs/smoked peach gel
Pigtails (a nod to the Chef's former restaurant concept mayhaps?) managed to deliver in a big way as well. They were basically pork rillettes, a tender, satisfying, intensely piggy presentation of the star ingredient that paired superbly with the sweet-smoky peach gel and counterbalancing zing of the mustard.

salsify
14: salsify | oyster leaf/seaweed/oyster gel/salsify puree
Yaki salsify arrived in a bed of miso soil, along with oyster leaf and a purée of itself. Think an unabashedly earthy, smoky umami bomb, moderated by the various greenery on the plate.

lamb
15: lamb | sprouted lentils/wild yeast/mustard/rye
The lamb tartar was recommended by a server at the restaurant, and it turned out to be one of my favorites as well, and in fact, one of the best tartars I've had, ever. The gamy relish of the lamb was on proud display here, masterfully counteracted by the earthiness of those lentils, while the rice espuma and sorrel served as a balancing element. Really, a beautiful, somewhat contemplative set of flavors going on here.

steps ascend
steps ascend [$12.00] | flor de caña/bryan's tonic/pineapple/paprika/cilantro
Next to imbibe was the Steps Ascend, loaded with plenty of light, bright cilantro flavors and a body of tangy, boozy, and slightly astringent notes that all worked together in harmony. Fun and breezy.

matsutake
16: matsutake | caramelized béchamel/wild rice
It was the start of matsutake season, so I was happy to see them presented, served here with a ginger gel, strawberry spinach, and black rice. The intense, woody perfume of the mushrooms was a joy to experience, and made perfect sense against the leafy bits on the plate. The rice, meanwhile, grounded the dish, and also provided an interesting textural component.

snails
17: snails | potato/garlic threads
Another standout for me were the snails, some of the tastiest I've had no doubt. They were actually of the basil-fed variety, and set here in a potato-based broth. I loved the herbaceousness that these little guys had, which paired with the rich, heady, onion-broth in stellar fashion. Great bits of gnocchi in there, too.

sorrel stems
18: sorrel stems | horseradish juice/red cabbage
Next, sorrel was plated in a red cabbage gazpacho, resulting in a creamy, tangy, somewhat bitter blast of flavors that were smartly accented by the savory veal(?) "fibers" present.

pigeon
19: pigeon | rice/offal/orange/hazelnut
The last savory brought out an excellent rendition of squab, one shown with a wild rice "paella" and orange espuma. The bird itself was intensely aromatic, and just full of flavor. I found it delicious alone, and even better when taken with the hearty rice (which I could've easily eaten a whole bowl of) and slight citrus-y tang of orange.

goat curd
20: goat curd | nasturtium/espelette/sour dough
Acting as the cheese course was a puddle of chèvre, garnished with lavash, nasturtium, and espelette. The curd I rather liked, its sweet, tangy taste working hand-in-hand with the crunchy, savory bits of sourdough, all while the nasturtium lent an overarching brightness to the course. Pretty neat.

amalie
amalie [$12.00] | cruzan rum/cardamaro/banana/demerara/cardamom/maraschino
To pair with dessert, I ordered up an Amalie, a surprisingly stiff, yet saccharine concoction with an almost tropical essence to it, underscored by hints of banana.

cucumber
21: cucumber | tapioca/pineapple/coconut
Time for the sweet stuff. Here, cucumber was presented in both meringue and gel forms, along with pineapple, coconut, and a rice espuma. The key were was that interplay between cucumber and coconut, a cool, light combo that just worked, tarted up by pinpoints of pineapple.

blueberry
22: blueberry | vanilla/pistachio
The blueberry dessert--with moscato cream, vanilla panna cotta, and a lime air--was even better. That panna cotta especially was pretty amazing, showing of classic flavors with a countervailing citric tang, a lovely complement to the sugary blueberries in the dish. Loved the nutty, salty, crunchy bits of pistachio, too.

strawberry
23: strawberry | chocolate/balsamic
The most substantial dessert of the trio was probably my favorite as well. Here, a chocolate-raspberry mousse was joined by strawberry-balsamic sorbet and dark chocolate crumbles. It was a satisfying, though not entirely unexpected commixture of fruity, sweet flavors against a subtle chocolate base, with the crumbles actually adding a wonderful savory hit to things.

happy endings
24: happy endings | little things/small bites
Finally, the requisite mignardises: guava shortbread, kalamansi pâte de fruit, peanut butter-fudge, orange-chocolate (my favorite of the fivesome), and white chocolate-coconut.

All the drama surrounding the place aside, Cooper and his team really did deliver a great meal. The cooking was contemplative at times, but delicious almost always, a commingling of disparate influences, of classic flavor profiles and modernist technique that somehow comes together to form a cohesive whole. I'm really glad I made the decision to come out here. Think of Rogue 24 as a break from the ordinary, but still grounded in tradition, and, at $135, think of it as a downright bargain too.

Friday, September 27, 2013

Vidalia (Washington, DC)

Vidalia Restaurant
1990 M St NW, Washington, DC 20036
202.659.1990
www.vidaliadc.com
Fri 09/27/2013, 06:20p-08:25p




The fourth restaurant on my recent DC culinary tour was certainly one of the longest-lived. Vidalia was opened back in 1993 by Chef Jeffrey Buben and wife Sallie, and restaurant quickly made a name for itself as the place to go for modern American Southern cookery. It's a bit of an institution, and has served as the training ground for a number of the area's most well-known chefs, including CityZen's Eric Ziebold, Restaurant Eve's Cathal Armstrong, Rogue 24's R.J Cooper (Chef de Cuisine from 2004 to 2010), and Newton's Table's Peter Smith (CdC from '98 to '04).

About the Chef: A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America (class of '78), Jeff Buben got his start, unsurprisingly, in New York City, working at the likes of Le Cygne, Le Chantilly, Sign of the Dove, and The Pierre hotel before relocating to DC in 1984. There, he cooked at La Bagatelle, Nicholas at the Mayflower hotel, the Four Seasons Georgetown, and then became Executive Chef at Occidental Grill when it reopened in 1986. Buben stayed there until 1993, when he would leave and start Vidalia, inspired by the culinary heritage of wife Sallie. The restaurant was a hit, and quickly garnered praise by Bon Appétit as one of their "Best New Restaurants."

Given the success of Vidalia, Buben debuted Bistro Bis, a modern French bistro, in 1998, located at the Hotel George on Capitol Hill. This was followed by a nod from James Beard in the form of the "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" award the next year. The Bubens, however, were content on just having two restaurants until very recently. In November 2012, they opened Woodward Table, a more casual American eatery with a takeout component, housed inside the historic Woodward Building apartments, just steps from the White House.

Vidalia Interior
Vidalia still resides in its original location, a space that's perhaps best known for being completely underground. The room is divided into a wine bar/lounge and a bi-level dining area, pictured above.

Vidalia Menu Vidalia Menu
As far as Vidalia's menu goes, I opted for the five-course prix fixe at $80, comprised of a selection of the restaurant's more classic dishes. The "Chef Inspirations" features newer items from CdC Hamilton Johnson, and all plates can be ordered à la carte as well. Click for larger versions.

roasted pepper panna cotta
Amuse Bouche: roasted pepper panna cotta
First to arrive was a cuboid of roasted pepper panna cotta, which really showed off the light, vegetal brightness of the pepper, enhanced by just a smidge of sweetness to round things out.

Vidalia Breads
Vidalia's bread basket is widely known to be one of the City's best, and for good reason. Housemade varieties included the trademark onion focaccia, cornbread, and potato bread, all served with a soft, sweet butter.

maximilliano
maximilliano [$12.00] | cimarron reposado tequila, st. germain, riesling, grapefruit chips
To drink, I went with cocktails this evening, and the first to bat was the Maximilliano, a light, refreshing libation that I found citrus-y and sweet initially, but with a boozy kick and a delicious undercurrent of Riesling character. A tasty one.

yellowtail hamachi
1: yellowtail hamachi | avocado mousseline, grapefruit gelée, country ham, honey vinaigrette, melon sorbet
A crudo of sorts was delectable indeed, the yellowtail arriving meaty and substantial, with a subtle, fishy fattiness that was tempered by the liberal use of fruit in the dish. Nice temperature contrast here as well, but my favorite part were the pricks of saltiness imparted by the crispy bits of ham tossed in. Quite nice.

oyster pan roast
2: oyster pan roast | chesapeake oysters, swiss chard, country ham, leeks, champagne cream, brioche
From something light and delicate, we move to something verging on decadent, one of the best cooked oyster dishes I've had in fact. The oysters themselves were masterfully prepared, coming out silky and slick, their brine fortunately still intact. To that, the luxuriousness of the accompanying broth was spot on, a rich, hearty, creamy liquid that paired with the bivalves in stellar fashion, interjected by flits of salt from the ham, all while the chard and leeks added a countervailing bitterness to the dish.

jumbo lump crab cake
Supplement: jumbo lump crab cake [$18.00] | english peas, apricots, pancetta, scallions, sweet pepper butter
Another customer favorite is the crab cake, which, admittedly, I would've ordered as a supplement even if it weren't. It was a good-looking cake to be sure, and taste-wise it was on point as well, bringing forth a bevy of crabby, saline flavors that I was rather fond of. The peas, meanwhile, added a great touch of brightness to the course, and I appreciated the salty pancetta as well, but I could've done without the apricot, which I found distractingly saccharine.

kitty hawk
kitty hawk [$12.50] | eldorado rum, leopold bros maraschino, sour, honey syrup, bittermans tiki bitters, ginger shortbread
The next cocktail was the Kitty Hawk, which, somewhat confusingly, came with two tabs of ginger shortbread. The drink itself conveyed a honeyed sort of sweetness, but one underscored by the boozy kick of the rum. I enjoyed the cookies as well, but I'm still befuddled as to why they were included in the first place.

berkshire pork trotter
Supplement: berkshire pork trotter [$15.50] | cuttlefish, andouille sausage, piquillo peppers, black garlic grits, sunny side egg
My second supplement was another winner. The trotter itself was as hefty and pork-y as you'd expect--in other words, delish. Add to that the spicy sausage, creamy egg, and fun bits of cuttlefish, and you've got a tasty little dish, all grounded by a base of garlic grits. Yum.

shrimp and grits
3: shrimp and grits | anson mill's grits, vidalia onion, spinach, tasso ham, tomato, shellfish emulsion
Next up was Vidalia's most famous dish, its take on the Southern classic shrimp 'n' grits. The actual shrimp, though, were a touch overdone, but still very tasty, with a strong salinity to 'em, augmented by the shellfish emulsion, that paired just swimmingly with the grits. Loved the slight bit of heat from the tasso as well, not to mention the countering astringency from the spinach.

the rose and briar
the rose and briar [$12.00] | combier red fruits, sloop betty vodka, peychauds bitters, cava
My final cocktail of the night came in the form of The Rose and Briar. It was definitely the sweetest of the bunch, with an almost jammy quality to it that was nicely moderated by the bitterness of the Peychaud's and a crisp backbone of booze.

crisp duroc pork shank
4: crisp duroc pork shank | butter poached shrimp, acorn squash, country ham, rice grits, swiss chard, béarnaise
A shank of Duroc hog was as crisp as advertised, which I appreciated, but the crispiest parts also tended to be dry. That being said, the flavors here were good, with the undeniably pork-y smack of the shank expertly paired with those creamy grits and luscious béarnaise, all while the chard served to balance things out a bit. I really didn't think that the sweetness of the squash was needed, though.

Vidalia Dessert Menu Vidalia Cheese Selection
Desserts here at Vidalia are the charge of Pastry Chef Donna Yuen, who took over in September from longtime incumbent Beverly Bates (now at Woodward Table). Click for larger versions.

georgia pecan pie
5: georgia pecan pie | bourbon ice cream, praline lace crumble, caramel
I had to stick with the tried-and-true and go with the pecan pie, a sweet, nutty, boozy creation that was as classic and comforting as you'd expect.

Petit Fours Mint Marshmallow
To close: various little mignardises, and a mint marshmallow.

Vidalia may not be as hip or happening as it was in its heyday, but I think the food's still worth a go, and the place obviously has lasting power. There's not much flash in the cooking per se, but there's plenty of substance in Buben and Hamilton's regional-American dishes, which blend Southern influences with just enough modernity to keep things interesting. It's a combination that's been sustaining the place for over 20 years, and I really don't see them stopping any time soon.