Saturday, February 28, 2015

Le Comptoir (Los Angeles, CA)

Le Comptoir at Hotel Normandie
3606 W 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90020
562.537.5990
www.lecomptoirla.com
Sat 02/28/2015, 08:50p-11:00p




When we last caught up with Gary Menes back in August 2012, he was busy running his Le Comptoir pop-up at Tiara Cafe, serving up his trademark veggie-focused menus with Wes Avila at Fred Eric's now-defunct all-day cafe. The Chef ended up vacating the spot in August that year, replaced by Starry Kitchen Nights. However, he quickly found a new location at Santos Uy's Mignon wine bar in September, and later took up residence inside the Wine Vault in Glendale, which, coincidentally, was situated in the same building that used to house his old stomping ground, Palate Food + Wine. Menes would stay there until October 2013, when it was announced that a permanent version of Le Comptoir would inhabit Koreatown's Hotel Normandie. Plans initially called for a spring 2014 debut, but the restaurant experienced delay upon delay before finally opening at the end of December.

Le Comptoir Interior
The restaurant occupies the home of the old Dragon Lady dive bar, and true to its name, comprises 11 counter seats surrounding the kitchen, and not much else.

Le Comptoir Menu
Le Comptoir's menu is of course vegetable-centric, a hyper-seasonal carte featuring produce largely sourced from Gladys Ave Urban Farm in Long Beach, which Menes tends to daily (he took it over from oceanographer Charles Moore in early 2014). Seatings occur at 6:00pm and 8:30pm, with six courses priced at $69 (be careful with those supplements, though), plus $42 for wine pairing. Corkage, meanwhile, is a pricey $40 a bottle. Click for a larger version.

Amuse Bouche
Our amuse comprised crispy Carolina Gold rice with blistered shishito, lemon confit, carrot greens, and a sherry vinaigrette. I deemed it a very promising start to the meal, with the delightful crunch and char of the rice making for a perfect counter to the heat of the pepper, the lemon and greens adding that requisite amount of zip to the mix.

japanese mountain yam velouté, greek yogurt, fried bread crumbs
Jason Koh Pouring Soup japanese mountain yam velouté, greek yogurt, fried bread crumbs
1: japanese mountain yam velouté, greek yogurt, fried bread crumbs
valfaccenda 2012, piedmonte, italy, arneis
A potage of mountain yam made for a hearty and heartwarming first course. The velouté was sweet, but not overly so, and the crux for me was how well the cool, lactic tang of the labneh worked in tempering the weight of the root vegetable. Also crucial were the bread crumbs, which imparted a wonderfully crunchy savoriness to things. Very good.

Randy Moles Tweezering Assembly Line Plating
Above, we see the assembly line-style plating necessary for our next course, which must've encompassed 20+ components.

'vegetable and fruit' plate. potato, corn, cauliflower, beets, celery root, celtuce, calamantsi, pickled onion, carrot, tangerine, zucchini, peas, grape, radish, potato and more..
2a: "vegetable and fruit" plate. potato, corn, cauliflower, beets, celery root, celtuce, calamantsi, pickled onion, carrot, tangerine, zucchini, peas, grape, radish, potato and more..
domaine les cantates, vin de savoie, france, chignin bergeron 2012, roussanne
And here we have what could be viewed as Menes' take on the iconic gargouillou. Given the myriad of produce on the plate, there was of course a lot going on, but it all came together, a mélange of crunchy and soft, of sweet, tart, and bitter, all tied together by an overarching theme and enveloping savor.

foie gras sourdough bread
2b: foie gras [$25 supplement]
domaine les cantates, vin de savoie, france, chignin bergeron 2012, roussanne
The foie gras was a prime example of such, the liver's signature potency conveyed with considerable finesse, its earthiness perfectly complemented by the sweet-tart nature of the reconstituted cherries and pineapple reduction. Delicious alone, and just as good when taken over a base of fluffy housemade sourdough, which is produced using a starter aged 16 to 20 years, depending on whom you ask.

oeuf en cocotte, beurre noisette, baby lettuce, brown butter, lemon, chives sourdough bread, greens
3a: oeuf en cocotte, beurre noisette, baby lettuce, brown butter, lemon, chives
trigone blanc 2011, le soula, france, macabeu, malvoisie roussillon, grenache blanc
An egg casserole satisfied in a straightforward manner, the rich, runny yolk amplified by brown butter, yet simultaneously well-foiled by the zesty duet of lemon and chives. Again, we were served some homemade sourdough as an accompaniment, as well as some bitter greens, which I found particularly apropos.

Gary Menes Spooning with Joshua Lu
For our next course, the Chef spoons some of that "bisque" atop our crab.

santa barbara rock crab, 'lobster bisque', cauliflower leaves, lime
3b: santa barbara rock crab, "lobster bisque", cauliflower leaves, lime [$15 supplement]
trigone blanc 2011, le soula, france, macabeu, malvoisie roussillon, grenache blanc
Rock crab was on point, all rich and briny and buttery, taken up a notch by that lobster froth while the cauliflower greens added a fantastic touch of countering astringency to the fold. Yum.

tranche of roasted butternut squash, wheat berries, preserved blueberries, pumpkin seeds
4a: tranche of roasted butternut squash, wheat berries, preserved blueberries, pumpkin seeds
germano angelo 2009, langhe, piedmont, nebbiolo
Regular readers will know that I've no love lost for butternut squash, but tonight it managed to be one of the highlights of the meal. In fact, it was possibly the strongest presentation of the ingredient I've had. The key was that char, which did a wonderful job providing savoriness and astringency to balance out the inherent sweetness of the squash. Also vital was the texture on those wheatberries, as well as the nutty crunch of pepitas. Great bitterness on those greens, too.

tagliolini, winter black truffles
4b: tagliolini, winter black truffles [$30 supplement]
germano angelo 2009, langhe, piedmont, nebbiolo
Tagliolini arrived well textured--tender but still with some bite--and lightly dressed, an uncomplicated stage on which to showcase the heady musk of black truffle.

Jason Koh Plating
Our final savory courses being plated with some big-ass tweezers. Note creepy dude in the window.

'fricassé' broccoli florets, apple, almonds, sweet onion, stone ground polenta, jus d'onion
5a: "fricassé" broccoli florets, apple, almonds, sweet onion, stone ground polenta, jus d'onion
mas bruguiere l'arbouse 2012, pic saint loup, france, syrah, grenache
Though a traditional fricassee calls for meat, Menes' vegetarian take on the classic was surprisingly satisfying, with sweet, bitter flavors underpinned by a strong backbone of umami-tinged goodness. I particularly appreciated the incorporation of almonds here.

dry aged prime beef, rouge de hiver, pear, parsley vinaigrette
5b: dry aged prime beef, rouge de hiver, pear, parsley vinaigrette [$16 supplement]
mas bruguiere l'arbouse 2012, pic saint loup, france, syrah, grenache
Beef was expectedly deep in flavor, really showing off the earthiness that you often find in dry-aged meat. I quite enjoyed it alone, but the best thing here was that parsley vinaigrette, which had all the brightness and acidity that you'd get from a chimichurri. It was a perfect accoutrement to the beef, and the lettuce was no slouch, either. My only quibble? The cut could've stood to be a touch more tender.

sourdough donut, sour cream, meyer lemon curd, orange marmalade
6a: sourdough donut, sour cream, meyer lemon curd, orange marmalade
Dessert brought out a singular doughnut hole of sorts, one that was light, airy, crisp, and slightly tangy, accompanied simply by a tangy cream and tart curd.

chef's selection of cheeses
6b: chef's selection of cheeses [$15 supplement]
The cheese course, meanwhile, resulted in a threesome of fromage: a pungent, yet refined Stilton; the sharp, crumbly, richly-flavored Hook's 10-Year Cheddar; and Cowgirl Creamery's Mt Tam, a soft, creamy, mushroom-y triple-cream.

Alex Guzman's Double Fisted Coffee Pour Kenyan Coffee
The restaurant is pretty fastidious about its coffee service, and tonight we ordered their Kenyan variety, at $12 a pop (Peruvian and decaf Ethiopian varieties were also on offer). Brewed using the SoftBrew process, which ostensibly combines both pour-over and French press qualities, the coffee was very light in terms of roast, with a fruity flavor profile and a somewhat bracing acidity.

Alex Guzman, Joshua Lu, Gary Menes, Randy Moles, Jason Koh
Le Comptoir's staff of five (left to right): apprentice Alex Guzman (from Bar Nine coffee shop in Culver City, Sqirl and Single Origin previously), apprentice Joshua Lu (a senior in biochem at UCLA), Chef Cuisinier Gary Menes, commis Randy Moles (RivaBella, Mezze, Riva, Angelini Osteria), commis Jason Koh (helps run Eggslut and worked with Menes at the Glendale outpost of LC).

Having had his food at a previous incarnation of Le Comptoir, I have to say that I thoroughly enjoyed seeing how the Chef's cuisine has evolved in the intervening years. Menes' cooking is even more focused than before, displaying flavor profiles that are even more robust, more confident, more creative. It's a pretty cool blend of the classic and the contemporary, all taking place in an intimate, interactive setting that I wish more chefs would emulate.




Sea Snail Jjol Myun Kimchi Fried Rice
Sea Snail Jjol Myun [$10.99] | Jjol Jjol Myun with Sea Snail
Kimchi Fried Rice [$8.99] | Fried Rice with Kimchi
Afterward, I wandered over to the nearby School Food, which, ostensibly, serves the type of food Korean children might consume after school. And indeed, they turned out very serviceable renditions of fiery gochujang-laced jjolmyeon and kimchi bokkeumbap. I wasn't particularly hungry, but could eat a little, taking the rest home.

Combination Roll
Combination Roll [$25.99] | Per 3 People/9Rolls: Small Anchovy, Stir Fried Kimchi, Garlic Bacon, Spicy Anchovy, Black Squid Ink, Smelt Eggs, Teriyaki Beef
What I was most looking forward to, though, were the gimbap here, which come in an impressive-looking spread with no less than nine varieties: Stir Fried Kimchi, Small Anchovy, Tuna, Black Squid Ink, Smelt Eggs, Spam, Garlic Bacon, Teriyaki Beef, Spicy Anchovy. These made for some pretty satisfying leftovers the next day.

Praline Sésame / Praline Sesame Ladurée Macarons Café / Coffee
Framboise / Raspberry Citron / Lemon Chocolat / Chocolate
Cassis Violette / Blackcurrant & Violet Fleur d'Oranger / Orange Blossom Rhum Vanille / Rum Vanilla
Caramel à la Fleur de Sel / Caramel with Salted Butter Guimauve Chocolat Coco / Chocolate Coconut Guimauve Pétale de Rose / Rose Petal
The real reason for my visit to School Food, though, was to sample some Ladurée macarons, which were flown over from New York just the day prior. 11 flavors were sampled:
  • Praline Sésame / Praline Sesame - Pleasantly nutty and sweet.
  • Café / Coffee - A very focused, true-to-life coffee flavor.
  • Framboise / Raspberry - Super jammy, sweet, and floral.
  • Citron / Lemon - Sharply lemony, but with a sugary backbone to even it out.
  • Chocolat / Chocolate - Very rich and forceful, probably the heftiest of the bunch.
  • Cassis Violette / Blackcurrant & Violet - Aromatic and jammy, not unlike grape soda.
  • Fleur d'Oranger / Orange Blossom - Intensely perfume-y, damn.
  • Rhum Vanille / Rum Vanilla - Boozy and bittersweet.
  • Caramel à la Fleur de Sel / Caramel with Salted Butter - Sugary with a delightful hit of salt on the finish.
  • Guimauve Chocolat Coco / Chocolate Coconut Guimauve - Great coconut and chocolate flavors with a fluffy marshmallow-y texture in the middle.
  • Pétale de Rose / Rose Petal - Floral and rose-y, with an astringent quality to it.
Overall, a very strong showing from the legendary pâtissier--the macarons all came out well-textured and robustly-flavored--though I'm not sure if they're really head and shoulders above everything else out there, local favorite 'Lette for example. I do need to try me some Pierre Hermé...

Thursday, February 26, 2015

Coin de Rue Pop-Up (Beverly Hills, CA)

Coin de Rue Pop-Up at Red Medicine
8400 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211
323.651.5500
www.facebook.com/coinderuepopup
Thu 02/26/2015, 08:00p-11:20p




Coin de Rue Pop-Up Exterior

I've always felt that David Féau was one of Los Angeles' unsung talents. If you recall, he helmed the kitchens at The Royce for a couple years, following the departure of Michael Voltaggio, but his tenure there, and indeed the restaurant itself, lasted only until the start of 2013, when the place shuttered to make way for a steakhouse. The Chef's initial plan was to start up a small restaurant-slash-retail shop-slash-boulangerie in South Pasadena, but sadly, those plans never came to fruition.

He instead turned to working as a culinary consultant. Notably, he took the reins at Downtown's Le Ka as consulting chef, replacing Remi Lauvand, and later revamped the menu over at Lexington Social House. He also competed against Brendan Collins on Ilan Hall's Knife Fight in August 2013, and started his own soup delivery business called jeCook the following June. The last I heard from Feau (at Plate by Plate), he was planning a restaurant in the old Lexington spot, but that obviously fell through.

For this, his latest venture, he's partnered with Adam Fleischman (Tacoteca, Smoke.Oil.Salt) to bring us Coin de Rue ("street corner"), a pop-up at the old Red Medicine space. The dining series started on February 12th and ran through the 28th (Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights only), and served as an opportunity to showcase Féau's lighter, more seasonal, more Californian take on French bistro fare.

Coin de Rue Pop-Up Interior
Inside, things remain much the same as they've been since the Red Med days.

Coin de Rue Pop-Up Bar Menu Coin de Rue Pop-Up Prix Fixe Menu
As for Coin de Rue's menu, it was based on a four-course prix fixe at $55 a head, with the option of supplemental "bar bites." We were able to BYOB this evening, and there were also cocktails from barmen Cody Summers (Copa d'Oro, The Tasting Kitchen, Los Balcones) and Hector "La Aguila" Lopez. Click for larger versions.

Rye Fawkes
Rye Fawkes [$12.00] | Rye, Armagnac, all spice-Benedictine, bitters
With only three cocktails on offer, we naturally had to try 'em all, starting with this, my favorite of the troika. Lots of citrus commingled with warm aromatics on the nose here, with a taste that highlighted the spiciness of rye alongside a bitter, medicinal flavor profile.

Langue de boeuf sauce Gribiche
Langue de boeuf sauce Gribiche [$10.00] | Beef tongue Tartine, Dark Rye country loaf, hard boiled eggs vinaigrette, parsley, cornichon
We began with the fivesome of bar bites, and the Chef's rendition of beef tongue made for a pleasing start. The langue came out soft and slick, with a distinct bovine quality to it that worked swimmingly with the tangy balance of the cornichons and Gribiche.

Pâté de Lapin, Kaki et romarin
Pâté de Lapin, Kaki et romarin [$11.00] | Rabbit terrine, Persimmon and apple rosemary gelée
A pâté of rabbit was dense and rustic, with a growing savoriness complemented by the sweetness of the gelée. Even better, though, was the mustard, which added the requisite amount of piquancy to the dish.

Lavande Bulle (Lavender Bubble)
Lavande Bulle (Lavender Bubble) [$12.00] | Calvados, lemon, lavender honey, brut
Our next cocktail was much lighter weight. The drink didn't have much of a bouquet, but tasted of floral apple and citrus, a fun and bubbly concoction to be sure.

Croque en Bouche de mousse de foie de volaille et foie gras
Croque en Bouche de mousse de foie de volaille et foie gras [$10.00] | Caramel peppercorn puff filled with chicken Liver foie gras mousse
The petits choux were fun little bites. A blend of both chicken liver and foie gras, the mousse struck a balance between the power of the former and the finesse of the latter, giving up a satisfyingly deep flavor profile that paired well with the contrasting sweet and peppery notes present. Great crunch on the caramelized top, too.

The Rebel
The Rebel [$15.00] | Duck fat-washed Cognac, local orgeat, cherry-soaked antique bitters
The third cocktail of the night was certainly the most challenging, showing off a savory, meaty quality tempered by an undercurrent of bittersweet cherry and accents of citrus. It was an experience that I found off-putting, unfortunately.

Tartelette de Point Reyes au pavot bleu, poire pochée vin d'épice
Tartelette de Point Reyes au pavot bleu, poire pochée vin d'épice [$11.00] | Pont Reyes Tartlet, poppy seed crust, spicy red wine poached pear
Féau's tart was superb, recalling a cheese plate in essence, with the strong, pungent punch of the bleu coming in full force, moderated by the sweet spice of the fruit, the whole thing presented over a delightfully crispy base.

Bonbons de Foie gras et Truffe Noire
Bonbons de Foie gras et Truffe Noire [$20.00] | Foie Gras torchon coated with chopped Winter black Truffle
One can't go too astray with foie gras and truffles in play, and indeed, these were some decidedly decadent bites, with a blast of earthy truffle at first leading to the dense slugs of luscious liver, everything perked up by well-placed hits of salt.

2007 Coche-Dury Bourgogne
Fleischman was in the house tonight, and graciously provided us tastes of his 2007 Coche-Dury Bourgogne. I quite enjoyed the wine, finding it spicy, peppery, and jammy on the nose, with a soft, silky palate that brought more fruit, minerality, and some tannic character. Easy drinking, a bit rustic, and very tasty.

Soupe a l'oignon, croûtons aïllé, Comté
1a: Soupe a l'oignon, croûtons aïllé, Comté | Vegan Onion Soup, roasted garlic bread, Comté cheese cube
Féau's soupe à l'oignon delivered with its classically dark, sweet, hearty flavors (especially impressive since this ostensibly omitted the traditional meat stock), the garlic bread adding a nice heft to the soup. The key here for me was the Comté, which imparted a gooey accent that really brought it together.

Galette de sarrasin et Tartare de thon Rouge fumé, raifort grattée, chou fleur au citron, salade d'endive
1b: Galette de sarrasin et Tartare de thon Rouge fumé, raifort grattée, chou fleur au citron, salade d'endive | Crispy Buckwheat roll, smoked yellowfin Tuna tartar horseradish, romanesco cauliflower, endive salad
Tuna showed off a wonderful smoke in this next course, its robust flavors beautifully played off of the crunch and brightness of the romanesco and endive. I would've like some more crispness on the buckwheat, though.

Pied de Porc grillé, remoulade de celery aux sesame
1c: Pied de Porc grillé, remoulade de celery aux sesame | Caramelized pig feet, celeriac slaw, toasted sesame, arugula salad
Apparently, the Chef was known for making the best pieds de cochon in Paris when we was working there during the late 1990's. That's a credible claim, given the strength of this dish, which was one of the strongest presentations of trotter I've had. The pork was beautifully textured, and just teeming with piggy goodness, the combo of celeriac and arugula providing the necessary counterweight to it all. It was a table favorite, and was described by some of us as a "porcine crab cake."

Cidrerie Traditionnelle du Perche L'Hermitière Cidre Brut
Next to imbibe was the Cidrerie Traditionnelle du Perche L'Hermitière Cidre Brut, a farmhouse cider from the Calvados region of Normandy. This is how I like my cidre: dry and acidic and funky, yet with soft, sweet notes of apple underpinning the whole experience.

Carrotte à la Verveine et raifort
2a: Carrotte à la Verveine et raifort | Carrot candy, lemon verbena, horseradish
Carrot "candy," fortunately, wasn't overly sugary, instead offering up a smart presentation of the root veggie, with its inherent saccharine qualities deftly evened out by the zestiness and aromatics of the horseradish and verbena.

Oeufs Brouillées langue d'oursins embeurré de Chou
2b: Oeufs Brouillées langue d'oursins embeurré de Chou | Cabbage and sea urchin soft scrambled eggs, turmeric Crab bisque
The pairing of eggs and urchin was a winning combination, as it oft tends to be, with the soft, supple eggs working as a great base for the butteriness of the uni. Even more crucial, though, was the bisque, which provided an umami-laced brine that really underscored the entire dish. I was a fan of the cabbage was well, which added both texture and a counterbalancing astringency to the mix.

Salade de caille aux raisins, vinaigrette de champignon
2c: Salade de caille aux raisins, vinaigrette de champignon | Seared quail salad, pickled grapes, wilted bitter greens, mushroom vinaigrette
Quail was well prepared, arriving delightfully charred and dripping with a juicy, gratifying sort of savoriness to it. The bird was tasty on its own, but the bitterness of the greenery worked well as a contrasting note.

2007 Château Lafleur-Gazin
For our mains, I opened a bottle of Bordeaux, the 2007 Château Lafleur-Gazin from Pomerol. I found it to my liking, the wine coming in super jammy and earthy on the nose, while taste-wise, it had lots of pepperiness and even more fruit, as well as an offsetting tannic character.

Bouillabaisse de poisson de Roche, Légumes aioli
3a: Bouillabaisse de poisson de Roche, Légumes aioli | Local fish Bouillabaisse, aioli "tradition", root vegetables
The Chef's interpretation of bouillabaisse did a commendable job showcasing the firm, flaky nature of the rockfish, its comparatively delicate flavors amped up by the richness of the broth while the veggies added a moderating element to the mix. Very good aioli too, which had a great depth to it.

Canard Apicius, Salsifi aux beurre noisette, navet rose
3b: Canard Apicius, Salsifi aux beurre noisette, navet rose | Roasted Duck Apicius, caramelized salsifi purée, scarlet turnips
Duck was beautifully presented, and displayed deep, very "ducky" flavors that were set off by the sweet, sour, and spicy nuances present. Loved the bitterness and crunch of the turnips here, as well as the tough, jerky-like bits thrown in.

Lentilles verte 'du Puy' et petit pois, roquette et beurre de truffe
3c: Lentilles verte "du Puy" et petit pois, roquette et beurre de truffe | Green Lentils "du Puy" fresh peas Ragout, arugula truffled butter
Féau's lentils are the best I've eaten, and I've had the pleasure of consuming them multiple times at The Royce. As such, it wasn't surprising that this course was perhaps my favorite of the night. The lentils themselves were spot on--earthy and nutty and well-textured--and I loved the peas here, which provided both an offsetting brightness and crunch to the dish. Taking things over the top, meanwhile, was that beurre de truffe, which combined a lush, luxurious butteriness with the unmistakable musk of truffle. You just want to keep eating.

Steak au Poivre, DFC potato, salade de cresson
3d: Steak au Poivre, DFC potato, salade de cresson | peppercorn Crusted beef sirloin, brandy wine sauce, DFC potato, watercress
We ended our savories with a reworked steak au poivre. The most interesting thing here was the "DFC potato," which combined fondant, espuma, and crispy fried preparations into one multifaceted whole. I quite enjoyed it, as I did the zestiness of the cress. However, the beef itself fell short. Though it was on point flavor-wise, the meat was simply too tough, distractingly so in fact.

2014 The Bruery Tawny Port Barrel Aged Sucre
With the sweet stuff upon us, I brought out an appropriately "desserty" beer, the 2014 The Bruery Tawny Port Barrel Aged Sucre. Produced for the brewery's 6th anniversary, this was an English-style old ale aged in used port barrels. Think boatloads of dark fruit, malt, brown sugar, and toffee, overarched by a distinct vinous quality that really reminded you of the tawny.

Tarte Tatin de Pomme, crème fraiche glacée
4a: Tarte Tatin de Pomme, crème fraiche glacée | Apple tart Tatin, Crème fraiche Sorbet
The Chef's tarte Tatin was pretty much perfect, conveying delicious notes of sugary, caramelized apple as well as a great harmony of textures, the whole tart accented by the light, bright sorbet.

Baba au Rhum, confiture d’orange sanguine, crème glacée vanille
4b: Baba au Rhum, confiture d’orange sanguine, crème glacée vanille | Rum Baba, blood orange confiture, Vanilla buttermilk Sorbet
A rum baba was also delectable, with all the elements here melding into one delicious whole, the dessert coming in reminiscent of a boozy orange Creamsicle.

Choco-mousse cake, crème glacée au café et chocolat au lait
4c: Choco-mousse cake, crème glacée au café et chocolat au lait | Flourless Dark chocolate, milk chocolate coffee gelato
A soufflé-like cake was appropriately fluffy, with rich chocolate flavors taken up a notch by the incorporation of the gelato. Nice hot-cold contrast here to boot.

Sous Chef Chris Rosenberg, Executive Chef David Féau, Chef de Cuisine Ryan Kluver
Féau at the end of the night, with Sous Chef Chris Rosenberg (La Poubelle) and CdC Ryan Kluver (who worked with David at both Lexington Social House and The Royce).

After a two year hiatus, it was a welcomed sight to have David Féau back in the kitchen cooking again. Though the food was certainly more casual than what he was putting out at The Royce, it was still able to show off the Chef's style: classic at its core, yet engaging. The question now is: what's next? The Red Med building was supposed to become The Flats with Kyle Schutte, but that deal fell through. Féau, however, isn't staying here. He's looking to do version 2.0 of the pop-up in April. He's also exploring a space in Larchmont Village for a permanent incarnation of Coin de Rue, which might be followed by a retail shop and a higher-end place. Let's cross our fingers.