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2008-11-18T07:05:00.000-08:00

The Bazaar (Los Angeles, CA)

2008-11-17T20:15:00.000-08:00

The Bazaar
465 S La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
310.246.5555
www.thebazaar.com
Mon 11/17/2008, 08:15p-12:50a

I was first introduced to José Andrés at his mezze eatery Zaytinya in Washington DC. This was several years ago, and ever since then, I'd wanted to try another one of Andrés' restaurants: Minibar at Cafe Atlantico, arguably the most progressive restaurant in the country. Andrés, a discipline of Ferran Adrià, is perhaps best known for his small plates, "avant garde" cuisine, so I was thus very excited to hear than he'd be opening a restaurant right here in LA. The anticipation built for several months, and I made reservations for opening night as soon as I could. I was especially interested in comparing the place to XIV (also owned by SBE), as I attended and reported on that restaurant's opening night a month ago.

Designed by Phillipe Stark, The Bazaar is divided into several distinct areas. The first is Bar Centro, located immediately behind the entrance. The bar/lounge is decorated eclectically, and makes interesting use of the space. The actual bar is located near the back.

While waiting for my entire party to show up, we decided to order a few drinks at the bar. Naturally, I had to go with a mojito [$16.00], replete with a piece of sugar cane (which was nice to chew on). It was an excellent example, well very balanced, with just the right amount of sweet and sour, while being still light and refreshing. I also sampled the "Salt Air" Margarita [$14.00], which was basically a classic margarita topped with salt air (foam). Again, an excellent example, with the air basically serving the exact same function as a salt rim. There were also some sweet "corn nuts" to munch on.

To the right of Bar Centro is the Patisserie, or dessert station. In addition to offering a selection of cakes, candies, and chocolates, the Patisserie also serves up tea and coffee.

Further to the right is the shopping area by Moss, showcasing a wide range of high-end trinkets and baubles.

With my party complete, we were seated in Rojo y Blanca, the main restaurant at The Bazaar. We were seated in "Rojo," one of two dining rooms, and were provided with an excellent view of the kitchen.

The menu focuses on tapas and is similarly divided into "Rojo" and "Blanca" sections, with the former being more traditional and the latter more progressive. As with XIV, our goal was to order "the gamut," or everything on the menu. There were 62 items, and I proposed that we order two of everything on the menu, split amongst six people. Unfortunately, this time we failed by 13 dishes, significantly underestimating the size of the courses. In hindsight, we should've ordered just one of everything (a paradigm which we did move to toward the end of the meal). Click for larger versions.

A small selection of wines is offered. We decided to go with a bottle of the 2006 Marge, Celler de l'Encastell, Garnacha-Carinena, Priorat [$86.00]. I thought the wine was way too young, though it did open up a bit after an hour or so, showing lots of spice, smoke, and earth, with a bit of heat on the finish; not enough fruit though. We were told that eventually, diners would be able to order the wine selections from Bar Centro as well. Click for larger versions.

There aren't a lot of desserts offered at Rojo y Blanca, though the Patisserie does supplement this list considerably. Click for larger versions.

Now, with all the formalities out of the way, we'll delve into each of the 49 dishes I had:

1: Jamón platter [$32.00]
Clockwise from top left, we have: Jamón Ibérico de bellota, Jamón Ibérico, and Jamón Serrano. Jamón Ibérico comes from the Black Iberian Pig, and was, until recently, not available in the US. Jamón Ibérico de bellota is the most prized version, and is made from pigs that eat only acorns during the last periods of their lives. This resulted in the meat being sweeter, nuttier, and fattier than the non bellota version, which had a stronger, "hammier" flavor. This was my first time having Jamón Ibérico and it didn't disappoint. The much more common Jamón Serrano (made from white pigs) was somewhat drier and less fatty, but still delicious.

2: Selection of five cheeses [$25.00]
Served with 'picos,' Spanish crispy bread, quince jam and almonds:

Murcia al vino - This was a goat's milk, semi-soft, smooth cheese with a red wine-washed rind from Murcia in southeastern Spain. It had just a hint of fruitiness and nuttiness and was quite nice overall.
La Serena - La Serena is made from Merino sheep's milk in La Serena, Spain. It had a soft, creamy consistency, backed by a bitter, almost astringent taste.
Manchego 'Pasamontes' - Manchego is a sheep's milk cheese made in the La Mancha region of Spain. I found it firm and mild, with just a bit of saltiness.
Idiazábal - Idiazábal is a hard, mildly smoky, nutty sheep's milk cheese from the Basque region in Spain. At XIV, I had it paired with bacon.
Picón Bejes-Treviso - A creamy, sharp blue made from cow's, goat's, and sheep's milk from Liébana, Cantabria, Spain. A prototypical blue.

3: 'Pa amb' Tomaquet [$8.00]
Toasted sliced rustic bread brushed with fresh tomatoes. This typical preparation of Catalan cuisine was surprisingly tasty, with the tomato adding an interesting contrast to the toasted bread. It was a nice accompaniment for the jamón and cheese.

4: Mussels escabeche [$7.00]
Marinated in olive oil, vinegar and smoked paprika. This was definitely one of the better preparations of mussels I've had, with the marinade adding a spicy, tart kick to the natural flavor of the mollusks. Perfect texture too.

5: King Crab [$16.00]
With raspberry vinegar. The raspberry was initially a bit strange, but turned out quite nicely, with the flavor of the berries pairing well with the crab meat's inherent sweetness.

6: Kumamoto Oysters [$12.00]
With lemon and black pepper. Kumamotos are my favorite type of oyster, and here again, they lived up to their reputation, with the lemon adding a great kick. I will say though that although tasty, these were actually quite similar in taste to the oysters on the half shell that you normally get.

7: Sea Urchin [$16.00]
With pipirrana and Andalusian vegetables. This was my favorite of the canned dishes, and was an exemplary preparation of uni. The sea urchin itself was mild, smooth, and delicious, while the veggies (peppers, tomatoes, onions, etc.) added a fantastic textural contrast. Arguably the best dish of the night.

8: Aceitunas con anchoas y piquillos [$6.00]
Stuffed green olives with piquillo and anchovies. Though advertised as "world's best," these tasted pretty much just like olives. The piquillos didn't add much, and the anchovies were simply not apparent.

9: Carrilleras de cerdo con naranja [$8.00]
Braised pork cheeks with California oranges. Quite nice. The pork was braised, so it was very tender, but the meat still had a bit of bite to it, which I appreciated. The oranges did well to offset the heaviness of the meat.

10: Alitas de pollo [$9.00]
Boneless chicken wings with green olive puree. I liked these. The chicken was extremely juicy and rather fatty, reminding me of almost an Asian-style street food. However, tasting the bird with the included olive puree and greens added layers of complexity to the dish that elevated it above mere fried chicken.

11: Arroz cremoso de setas con queso Idiazábal [$8.00]
Wild mushroom rice with Idiazábal cheese. The rice didn't have that risotto-like texture that I love, but nevertheless, I quite enjoyed this dish and its rich, hearty interplay between rice, earthy mushroom, and smoky cheese. It actually reminded me of the mushroom risotto I had at Café Hiro.

12: Espinacas a la Catalana [$8.00]
Catalan sautéed spinach with apple, pine nuts and raisins. The sweetness hits you first, which is then followed by the bitterness of spinach. A bit strange at first, but then it makes perfect sense. I had a similar Catalan style spinach at Mizuna only days earlier. There, I felt the amalgam was too sweet, but that didn't pose a problem here.

13: Japanese baby peaches [$12.00]
With yogurt and olive oil. The peaches had a lovely sweetness that was deftly set off by the yogurt, an interesting contrast. This looks like it could've been a dessert from Providence!

14: Lomo de buey a la parrilla con piquillos confitados [$12.00]
Seared NY strip with piquillo pepper confit. The meat was aptly cooked and I liked the texture, but the taste somehow seemed off to me; it just lacked the beefiness that I was looking for. The piquillos did work well here though.

15: Mozzarella-tomato pipettes [$8.00]
With micro basil. Interesting presentation here. You first taste the tomato with a hint of basil, then get hit by the mozzarella a second later, resulting in a quasi-insalata caprese experience. Quite a pleasing effect overall.

16: Pimientos del piquillo con queso Caña de Cabra [$9.00]
Seared piquillo peppers stuffed with goat cheese. Here I noted an initial burst of strong cheesy taste, gradually leading to the much milder flavor of pepper near the finish. Nothing special.

17: Sliced apples and fennel salad [$7.00]
With Manchego cheese, walnuts, olive oil and cava vinegar. I had a really hard time discerning anything else but apple here. There was just too much of it, and it dominated the other flavors. I didn't even know about the cheese and walnuts before reading the menu! With its sharp, cool tartness, this was almost like a palate cleanser.

18: Organized arugula salad [$9.00]
With raspberries, corn and Cabrales blue cheese. The arugula, when eaten alone, had a dry, spicy bitterness that wasn't too pleasant, but adding the cheese didn't help either, as it just overpowered everything else. The corn and raspberries were a tad incoherent.

19: 'Philly cheesesteak' [$7.00]
Air bread filled with cheese and topped with Kobe beef. I loved the lightness of the air bread and how it almost explodes in your mouth, coating it with cheese. Unfortunately, the cheese drowned out the taste of the beef.

20: Ensaladilla Rusa [$7.00]
Classic Spanish salad of potatoes, imported conserved tuna and mayonnaise. The tuna flavor was very strong here, though not unpleasantly so. The dish reminded me of a cross between tuna salad and potato salad. In that vein, I think it would've been better served a bit colder.

21: Lomo de corder con patatas y trufas [$14.00]
Lamb loin with foraged mushrooms and potato. The meat was extremely tender and almost pork-like in nature (one of my dining companions guessed that it was done sous-vide), and served as a base on which the potatoes and mushrooms could come to the fore.

22: Cigalas con algas Finisterrae [$14.00]
Norwegian lobster with seaweed and a soup essence. The seaweed added an extremely briny essence to the dish that tended to overpower the lobster; I wasn't a fan of its texture either. My attention was pretty much drawn to the seaweed and not the lobster.

23: Sautéed cauliflower "couscous" [$9.00]
With cauliflower puree, vegetable harissa broth, preserved lemon and fried quinoa. I'm generally a fan of cauliflower, and I appreciated its creative use here as "couscous." It had a subtle bitterness that contrasted with the sweeter elements of the dish, along with a great mouthfeel. Quite good.

24: Croquetas de pollo [$7.00]
Chicken and béchamel fritters. The unique amalgam of chicken and béchamel gave the croquettes a lovely golden brown interior hiding a warm, creamy center. It was akin to a chicken pot pie, and I rather liked it.

25: Artichokes and citrus salad [$9.00]
With orange blossom dressing and pomegranate. I found the citrus jarring, and not at all integrated with the artichoke, which was just bland. This was disjointed to say the least, a mismatched mishmash and one of the weakest dishes of the night.

26: Ajo blanco gelatin [$8.00]
With tomato granité. Also competing for the title of worst dish of the night was this strange amalgamation. Ajo blanco is a type soup traditionally made from bread, olive oil, vinegar, water, garlic, and almonds. Sounds pretty good on its own, but here the interplay of savory and sweet elements just didn't work out. The jarring coldness of the granité didn't help either. Like an experiment gone wrong at Alinea.

27: Seared cantaloupe [$7.00]
With arugula and grapefruit salad. I've never had seared cantaloupe before, but I must say that the cooking process intensified the natural flavor of the fruit and gave it a rich heaviness that stood in stark contrast to the grapefruit. Surprisingly nice.

28: Brussel sprout salad [$8.00]
With lemon puree, apricot preserves and lemon air. Having found a new appreciation for Brussels sprouts just days earlier at Ford's Filling Station, I rather liked the salad. The sprouts had a great crunchiness along with their signature bitterness, which was subsequently cut by the use of lemon and apricot.

29: Olives Ferran Adrià [$10.00]
Liquid 'olives'. A nod to his former teacher, the "olives" consisted of an olive flavored liquid encased in a thin membrane. I'm not sure what the hype is all about, it tasted like an olive, nothing more.

30: Traditional Ottoman carrot fritters [$7.00]
With pistachio sauce. The fritters had a decidedly "Indian" taste to them, which I rather enjoyed. I also appreciated their texture, which was not unlike that of a hash brown. Nice!

31: Stewed baby carrots [$8.00]
With coconut sorbet and ginger. The sorbet by itself was superb, with a rich taste of coconut backed by a lovely cool creaminess. The carrots were also quite tasty by themselves. But when eaten as a whole, the dish just fell apart for me, with its quasi-Thai flavor.

32: Taylor Bay scallops [$10.00]
With beet nitro, pistachios and arugula. All I could taste was the sweetness of the beets and berries, locked in some sort of frozen mass. Were there even scallops here? Could've fooled me!

33: Watermelon tomato skewers [$15.00]
With Pedro Ximénez reduction and sexy tomato seeds. Yes, the tomato seeds are actually described as "sexy" on the menu. But sexy or not, this was damn good. The tartness of the tomato formed the perfect foil for the watermelon, and the whole mélange was ridiculously juicy to boot.

34: Warm leek salad [$8.00]
With goat cheese and lemon dressing. I don't recall the particulars about this dish, but I do remember that I didn't care for it. The table agreed with me, and these were left largely untouched.

35: Japanese eggplant [$8.00]
With soy sauce-miso glaze and yogurt. Continuing the trend from the previous dish, this was pretty awful. I'm not sure what else to say. I don't think it had a single redeeming quality. Sorry.

36: Papas Islas Canarias [$8.00]
Salty wrinkled potatoes with "mojo verde." The potatoes were delightfully salty and very delicious on their own, with an absolutely lovely texture. They were even tastier when dipped in the piquant mojo sauce. Simple, yet effective, this was one of the highlights for me.

37: Traditional tzatziki [$7.00]
Diced cucumbers, garlic, dill and yogurt, served with pita chips. A very straightforward preparation of tzatziki, this would've been a great starter, but just seemed out of place at this point in the meal. Nothing wrong with it though.

38: Pisto Manchego con flor de calabaza [$9.00]
Sautéed peppers, zucchini, onions, eggplant and tomatoes with squash blossoms and egg. Here we have basically a medley of sautéed vegetables, decent on their own, but made much better by the unifying presence of the soft boiled egg.

39: Tortilla de patatas 'al momento' [$7.00]
Classic potato omelet prepared at the moment. I actually quite liked the flavor of this course, but its soft, creamy, foamy texture just seemed a bit incongruous to the dish's character.

40: Setas al Ajillo [$9.00]
Sautéed wild mushrooms in garlic and aromatic herbs. Sautéed mushrooms can hardly be bad, and certainly this was no exception. At the same time though, it's not like this brought anything new to the table.

41: Buñuelos de Bacalao [$8.00]
Codfish fritters with honey aioli. I'd appreciate another type of fish here, as I found the cod rather mushy and a touch fishy, though the aioli did help with the latter problem. Next!

42: Ibérico ham and pineapple [$12.00]
With fennel sherry dressing. While I was eating this, all I could think of was Hawaiian pizza (not necessarily a bad thing mind you). What really stood out to me though wasn't the ham, but the sweet juiciness of the pineapple.

43: Gambas al ajillo [$12.00]
Sautéed shrimp with garlic and guindilla pepper. Nice texture on the shrimp, but the accompanying sauce was just plain strange. I don't know what it was, but it certainly didn't taste like garlic or pepper. I thought the equivalent dish at The Courtyard was much better.

44: Jicama wrapped guacamole [$10.00]
With micro cilantro and corn nuts. I didn't get much of the supposed corn nuts, but the jicama wrapper added a lovely crunch to the smooth creaminess of the guacamole. Very light and refreshing, with a great avocado taste.

45: Bogavante a la Gallega [$15.00]
Galician-style lobster medallions with olive oil crushed potatoes and smoked paprika. I ate the claw of the lobster and was duly disappoint, as I found it overly salty and limp in texture. The potatoes were quite good though I'm told.

46: Endivas con queso de cabra y naranjas [$8.00]
Endive with goat cheese, oranges and almonds. Not bad, but not great, the whole thing just sort of melded together taste-wise and nothing was particularly discernable. Juicy though.

47: Butifarra con ceps y montgetes del gantxet 'Daniel Patrick Moynihan' [$9.00]
Homemade pork sausage with white beans and ceps. Daniel Patrick Moynihan was a US senator from New York, and apparently he was a huge fan of these sausages. I'm not as enthusiastic, though it certainly wasn't bad. It just lacked the rich flavor and juiciness that I'd hoped for.

48: Patatas Bravas "New Way Jose" [$7.00]
José's fried potatoes with aioli and spicy tomato sauce. The tomato sauce here tasted basically of ketchup, and the whole dish seemed rather blunt and unrefined. "No way José!"

49: Trucha a la Navarra [$8.00]
Seared trout with Jamón Serrano, Navarra style. We found this far too fishy and just not very good in general, one of the worst preparations of trout I've had actually. We didn't exactly end the meal on a good note here.

At nearly two feet long, this was certainly the longest bill I've had, though not the highest. Thankfully, the amount shown was subsequently cut in half. You see, I originally had a reservation for the 10th, and because the opening date of the restaurant was pushed back to the 17th, I received a 50% discount on the food. Not a bad deal if you ask me!

I think there are two things that need to be addressed at The Bazaar. First is the food. Though we had some great dishes, we also had some truly god awful ones. I mean, some of it just tasted plain bad (as in, what were they thinking putting this on the menu?). Indeed, many of the dishes are very ambitious in terms of flavor pairings, and while I appreciate such novelty, sometimes it just doesn't work. I think what needs to happen is that the menu needs to be rationalized, to cull out the weaker dishes, and perhaps add some new ones to make up the difference. Hopefully, if you're thinking of going to The Bazaar, I've been able to help in deciding which the stronger dishes are. I do think there is a lot of potential here though; the place simply needs time.

Moving away from the food now, I was actually much more put off by the no photography policy that the restaurant has. While we were waiting for our table, we were told that we could not photograph the decor, because it was designed by Phillipe Stark and thus "copyrighted." Now, I'm no lawyer, but this sounds like a BS reason and I question if it's legally defensible. Note that XIV was also designed by Stark and we encountered no such "copyright" issues there. Once we were seated, we were informed by the "manager" (I didn't get her name) that food photography was similarly prohibited; she then directed me to Andrea Sun, a public relations manager, who reiterated that line. Interestingly, one of my dining companions later told me that he'd received permission from Andrea to photograph the food earlier in the night, so perhaps the restaurant needs to hold a consistent line on this. Except for that, I actually didn't have a problem with the service, and in fact, give a lot of credit to our server for handling our sometimes mercurial requests. I will say though that I don't plan on coming back until the restaurant institutes some less ridiculous policies.

Fruition (Denver, CO)

2008-11-14T17:00:00.000-08:00

Fruition
1313 E 6th Ave, Denver, CO 80218
303.831.1962
www.fruitionrestaurant.com
Fri 11/14/2008, 05:00p-06:10p

After having eaten at Mizuna the night before, I still had one more dinner to go in Denver. Though relatively new, Fruition also came highly recommended. The restaurant had been open for about a year and half, and represents a partnership between Executive Chef Alex Seidel and Maitre d’ Paul Attardi (both formerly of Mizuna, as is Sous Chef Drew Inman).

Fruition is located in a largely residential area along the 6th Avenue district of Denver, and is pretty easy to miss. It's also not far from Mizuna.

The space has a warm, inviting look, highlighted by tones of light woods, burgundy walls, and plenty of candles. In addition to this main dining room, there is also a smaller room off to the side.

The menu offers French-influenced seasonal contemporary American cuisine. Since there was no tasting menu option offered, I decided to make my own, opting for four appetizers. Click for larger versions.

I asked for a mojito to start, but a lack of mint stymied that idea rather quickly. Instead, I opted for a Tom Collins [$8.00], which unfortunately turned out a bit too sweet, like the one I had on my last visit to CUT; I prefer my Tom Collins on the dry and refreshing side, as at Capo and Napa Rose. Afterwards, I ordered a glass of the NV Francois Montand Crémant du Jura Brut Rosé [$9.00], an enjoyable, easy-drinking sparkler with lovely apple and yeasty notes.

A wheat bread and a French Bâtard (similar to a baguette) were provided, as was a particularly flavorful parsley-, thyme-, and sea salt-topped butter.

Potato-Wrapped Oysters Rockefeller [$12.00]
Parmesan-Leek Emulsion, Bacon Lardons, Baby Spinach. Traditional oysters Rockefeller consists of baked oysters on the half-shell topped with a variety of ingredients, so I was surprised at the presentation here. The potato wrappers reminded me of Lays chips, and their savory flavor, along with lardons', matched well with the oysters' brininess. To contrast this was the smooth creaminess of the Parmesan-leek emulsion and the bitterness of spinach. The overall effect was very enjoyable.

Pastrami Cured Salmon Sandwich [$11.00]
Dark Rye Toast, Honey Crisp Apple Choucroute, Mustard Crème. A twist on the traditional pastrami on rye, the spicing and smoking of the pastrami process gave the salmon a unique savory flavor and tempered its fishiness, while the crisp texture and sour tang of the apple choucroute (sauerkraut) further elevated the dish, as did the tangy mustard crème.

Pasta Carbonara [$11.00]
House-Cured Pork Belly, Hand-Made Cavatelli, Six Minute Egg, Parmesan Broth. The pork belly was everything you'd expect, falling-apart tender, rich, and fatty. But for me, the key to this dish was the egg, prepared as to be still soft and runny. By itself, the pork would have been overwhelming, so the egg was key in cutting its intensity. The cavatelli served a similar function, and also provided an important textural contrast. Very nice.

Crispy Duck Leg Confit [$13.00]
Maple-Candied Sweet Potato, Toasted Hazelnut Salad, Golden Raisin Vinaigrette. The confit itself was delicious, with its intensely flavored, super-soft flesh topped by a light crispy skin. However, the puréed sweet potato was far too sweet for the duck. The candied hazelnuts and raisin vinaigrette didn't help things either. The end result was an overbearing sweetness that drew all attention away from the natural flavor of the duck. I expressed my thoughts on the dish to my server, resulting in the course being comped.

Warm Sticky Toffee-Date Cake [$8.00]
Gala Apple Compote, Crème Fraiche Ice Cream, Hot Toffee Sauce. I had Maitre d’ Paul Attardi surprise me with a dessert selection, and his choice did not disappoint. I loved the interplay between the dense, warm cake and the refreshing coolness of the ice cream, while the toffee sauce and apples added even more interest. The dessert was paired with the Pacific Rim, Riesling, Eiswein, Washington [$9.00], and this match worked beautifully, with the wine's acidity balancing the weight of the dessert, while contributing lovely tropical fruit flavors to the mix. Both the dessert and the wine were also comped.

Fortunately, my hopes for Fruition did indeed come to fruition. Except for the duck, I was very pleased with the food, and the experience was further bolstered by Attardi's attentive and friendly service. Fruition has poached some of the talent from Mizuna, and like Mizuna, I think this place too is destined for greatness.

Mizuna (Denver, CO)

2008-11-13T19:20:00.000-08:00

Mizuna
225 E 7th Ave, Denver, CO 80203
303.832.4778
www.mizunadenver.com
Thu 11/13/2008, 07:20p-09:20p

My business travels occasionally bring me to Denver, and being the foodie that I am, the first thing I ask when entering a new locale is: "Where are the best places to eat?" Mizuna had been the answer to that question before, but due to logistical issues, I'd never made it out to try the place. I wanted to come here on my last visit, but ended up at Kevin Taylor instead (which actually turned out quite good). In any case, I was determined to try Mizuna this time.

Located in the heart of the Governor's Park, Mizuna's exterior is modest and inconspicuous; I drove by without even noticing. Though there is valet service, street parking shouldn't be too hard to find.

Mizuna's main dining room is intimate, warm, and inviting, with seating for around 40 guests; there is also a small private dining room available. The restaurant had run out of tables for the night, so I sat at the bar, which gave me a perfect vantage point to view the open kitchen.

I opted for the Tasting Menu at $85, or $130 with wine. The menu is not set, so I had the restaurant write out the courses and wine pairings, signed by Chef/Owner Frank Bonanno. Click for larger versions.

The list of wines available by the glass and half-bottle are shown above. Click for larger versions.

Two types of home-made bread were available, a regular white and a Kalamata olive. Both were quite good, with the Kalamata being much more subtle than similar olive breads I've had. To accompany the bread was a trio of herbed butter, olive oil with balsamic, and regular butter.

1: Amuse Bouche Assortment
2005 Domaine du Margalleau Vouvray Brut, Loire Valley, France
We began with a quintet of amuse bouches, each one made by one of the five chefs in the kitchen. From left to right:

Rabbit Meatball with Fondue - I would've preferred the meatball to have been a bit more uniform in texture, as I found it rather "chunky." Nevertheless, I quite enjoyed its flavor, finding the accompanying sauce superfluous.
Fresh Lump Crab on Toasted Brioche - This was my favorite of the set, with the delicious, delicate flesh of the crab offset wonderfully by the crispness of the brioche, while the greens and watermelon added further complexity to the dish.
Sunchoke Soup - A rich, hearty soup, this tasted almost of potato. It actually reminded me very much of the sunchoke soup I had at XIV recently. Delicious.
Salmon Tartare with Avocado - Unfortunately, the salmon flavor was largely lost here, with the avocado completely dominating.
Humboldt Fog Goat Cheese with Beet and Cherry Relish - I'm quite a fan of Humboldt Fog cheese, and found its light, mild flavor nicely complemented by the sweet relish.

The wine pairing was a sparkling Vouvray, made from Chenin Blanc, and was a great way to start things off. The wine was lovely, sweeter than its Champagne counterpart I'd say, with a bit less fizz.

2: Hudson Valley Foie Gras
2005 Maison Nicolas Sauternes, Bordeaux, France
With Apricot Chutney and Almond Pithivier. I much prefer my foie gras in a terrine style, as I find the seared presentations too sweet more often than not. This was the case here, though given that limitation, it faired pretty well. The almond pithivier, a type of puff pastry, did an admirable job in tempering the foie's sweetness. It reminded me a bit of the foie gras I had at Marché Moderne. As expected, the wine pairing was a Sauternes; the Maison Nicolas was a fairly typical example, showing the expected flavors of honey and stone fruit, with low acidity.

3: Chestnut Gnocchi
2006 Frédéric Magnien Bourgogne, Burgundy, France
With Crispy Sweetbreads, Chanterelles and Brussels Sprouts. The gnocchi was actually fairly nondescript; the real star here was the sweetbreads, with their slightly tough exteriors hiding luscious centers of intensely flavored goodness. The chanterelles and sprouts were also excellent in their supporting roles in this wonderful preparation of sweetbreads. The wine, a red Burgundy, was nothing special by itself, but paired beautifully with the food.

4: Maine Diver Scallop
2006 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, Burgundy, France
With French Black Lentils, Potato and Leek Velouté and Fall Truffles. Truffles are always a nice touch, but it was the lentils that made all the difference in the world. I don't think I've ever had lentils paired with scallop, but here they added a simply fantastic contrast both in terms of taste and texture. The large mollusk itself was superbly cooked as well, and this combination, along with the velouté, was quite simply, one of the best preparations of scallop I've ever had. The paired wine was a light, crisp white Burgundy that provided an excellent foil to the dish with its slightly fruity, mineral-tinged flavor.

5: Peach Sorbet with Pecan Lavash
In preparation for the main course, a palate cleanser, or intermezzo, of home-made sorbet was presented. It had a mouth-watering, wonderfully intense flavor of peach that went nicely with the pecan cracker.

6: New Zealand Ostrich Loin
2004 Château Loudenne, Médoc, Bordeaux, France
With Catalan Style Spinach and Bleu Cheese Potatoes. This was only my second time having ostrich; interestingly, the first was also in Colorado, many years ago, at a place called The Warehouse in Colorado Springs. The meat, similar to an amalgam of beef, duck, and venison, was very tasty by itself, lean, yet tender and flavorful. However, the spinach salad that came with the bird was too sweet with its mixture of apple, pine nuts, and raisins, while the potato "chips" had a far too overpowering flavor of cheese. The ostrich went well enough with the paired Bordeaux, which I felt was surprisingly light, almost Burgundian in nature in fact.

7: Apple Charlotte
NV Chambers Muscadelle (Tokay) Rosewood Vineyards, Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia
Lady Finger Cake, Apple Bavarian, Apple Compote. This was my first time having a charlotte, a type of dessert in which custard (apple Bavarian here) is used to fill a bread or cake (lady fingers in this case) mold. The result was fantastic, with a perfect interplay of creamy and firm textures, all over a base of subtle apple flavor. The only fault was the compote, which was in my opinion, too strong for the delicate nature of the dish.

I had to drive down to Colorado Springs after the meal, so I was given a cookie for the road. Being quite full, I ended up eating it for breakfast the following day. Very nice.

I had a lovely time at Mizuna. Though the restaurant looks like a typical neighborhood type of place, the chefs here really do create some fantastic cuisine. I didn't agree with some of the preparations, but at the same time, there were some truly great dishes as well (the scallop, the sweetbreads). People say that Mizuna is the best restaurant in Denver; I can believe it.

Ford's Filling Station (Culver City, CA)

2008-11-12T20:00:00.000-08:00

Ford's Filling Station
9531 Culver Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232
310.202.1470
www.fordsfillingstation.net
Wed 11/12/2008, 08:00p-11:20p

Ford's Filling Station describes itself as a "gastro pub," focusing mainly on modern American food, with some international flair thrown in for good measure. The restaurant is helmed by Chef/Owner Benjamin Ford, son of actor Harrison Ford. Ford honed his skills at such LA establishments as Opus and Campanile (as well as the iconic California cuisine eatery Chez Panisse) before opening his Filling Station, where he focuses on uncomplicated cuisine backed by high-quality, locally-sourced ingredients.

Rather than experiencing Ford's regular menu, we were here for a special suckling pig dinner, as featured on Andrew Zimmern's show Bizarre Foods. The pig is available by special request only, and requires 10 days advance notice. This meal was sponsored entirely by FoodDigger, a burgeoning online food community. Joining me were fellow bloggers Aaron of Food Destination, Fiona of Gourmet Pigs, H.C. of L.A. and O.C. Foodventures, Ila of I Nom Things, Javier of Teenage Glutster, Matt of Dig Lounge, Matt of Mattatouille, and last but not least, Sarah of The Delicious Life and Tastespotting.

Situated along a row of restaurants, Ford's is surprisingly inconspicuous. I actually passed by it without even knowing.

The bustling main dining room features lots of dark wood, exposed brick, and concrete, giving the space a quasi-industrial feel. Nevertheless, the room is casual and comfortable, if a bit loud.

We were seated off to the side in the covered patio. A smaller room, the vibe here is much more relaxed.

Knowing that none of us would remember everything we had, I requested a special copy of the night's menu. Click for a larger version.

We paired three wines with the pork:

2005 Château Monbousquet St. Émilion [from the personal cellar of Will from FoodDigger] - Soft and delicate, the Monbousquet demonstrated subtle notes of dark berry, cassis, and smoke. Very balanced and delicious, the wine would perhaps benefit from some more time in the bottle.
2005 III Somms Atlas Napa Valley [$52.00] - This was a primarily Cabernet Franc blend, and tasted of a spicy mix of dark fruit, currant, and chocolate, leading to a slightly hot finish. A bit blunt.
2007 Montgomery Place Napa Valley Red Wine [$64.00] - Another Cabernet Franc-dominated blend, the Montgomery showed similar characteristics to the III Somms, but had more refined tannins and a more subtle finish, with a touch more minerality.

Chef Ford first came out at the beginning of the meal to give us a quick introduction of what would go down. Later, he proudly presented the platter of pork to us.

Served on a gleaming silver platter, the suckling pig was an impressive sight to behold.

Pig 1: Porchetta
Porchetta is sort of a rolled, stuffed preparation of pork, done here with fennel and onions. It had a delightful taste, a base of pork, but augmented with the other ingredients. The skin was especially nice. Texture-wise, this was somewhere between the confit and the legs.

Pig 2: Pig's Tongue Salad
Formed over a base of frisée, the salad also came with crispy pig ears. I didn't particularly care for the tongue (which was cold and slightly metallic-tasting), though I did enjoy the crispy ears.

Pig 3: Deep Fried Pig's Eyes
I think this may have been my first time having eyes. Here, they were stuffed with smoked ham hock, which gave them a slightly chewy texture. Otherwise, the eyes were totally inoffensive, almost tasting like chicken.

Pig 4: Panchetta Wrapped Pork Loin
The meat itself here was a bit monolithic, and so the key was the panchetta (cured pork belly) wrapper, which lent the pork a delectable contrasting savoriness. Quite nice.

Pig 5: Confit of Pork Shoulder & Fresh Hams
This was what we were most looking forward to, and it did not disappoint. The confit preparation left the pork incredibly tender to the point of breaking apart, and imbued the meat with an immense depth of flavor. So juicy, so succulent, this was some of the best pork I've ever had.

Pig 6: Crispy Smoked Pork Legs
This lacked the tenderness of the confit, and was a bit too tough for my tastes. It was perhaps the most intensely-flavored of all the variations, with strong, smoky notes over a base of pork.

Pig 7: Pork Cheek
Chef Ford made sure to tell us about the pork cheek on the head of the pig. Very rich and very fatty, it was perhaps a touch too intense for me.

Side 1: Roasted Kabocha Risotto
Kabocha is a type of Japanese winter squash, known for its sweet flavor. Here, I felt the sweetness was too much for the risotto, and was all I could focus on with this dish.

Side 2: Brussels Sprouts with Bacon / Cavalo Nero & Escarole
The Brussels sprouts were some of the best I've had, with their subtle nutty flavor accented by the salty tang of bacon. Fantastic. Also on the plate were kale and endive, which both had a very pleasing bitterness.

Side 3: Roasted Carrots with Pomegranate
The carrots had a natural sweetness that was further elevated by the pomegranate. I would've preferred them a bit crisper though.

Dessert 1: Hawaiian Bread Pudding
After coming close to a pork coma, this light, fruity dessert was extremely appealing. The candied kumquats(?) provided a great contrasting sourness and I enjoyed their tough, chewy texture.

Dessert 2: Walnut Torte
Chocolate cake topped with ice cream is always a winning combination. Not particularly creative, but tasty indeed. The small bits of hard chocolate were a nice touch.

A photo with Chef Ben Ford shortly before he had to leave.

Though not everything worked for me, the clear standout was the pork confit, which was simply heavenly. That alone is something worth coming back for, though I'd also be curious about the regular menu as well. I must say that this was one of the most interesting meals I've had, not only for the food, but for the company. Sharing the meal with such like-minded individuals as mentioned above definitely heightened the experience, and I look forward to many more future meals in the same vein.

Totoraku (Los Angeles, CA)

2008-11-07T19:45:00.000-08:00

Totoraku
10610 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064
www.yelp.com/biz/totoraku-los-angeles (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Fri 11/07/2008, 07:45p-12:00a

Ah, Totoraku, a.k.a. "secret beef restaurant," a.k.a. Teriyaki House Pico, I'd heard so much about you for the past few years, but now my time has finally come. Actually, the place isn't really a secret any more. Perhaps it was years ago, but with the advent of the Internet, the cat's out of the bag. Totoraku even has its own Yelp page for crying out loud! But even if the place isn't secret per se, it's still damn tough to get in to. You basically have to go with someone who has an existing relationship with the Chef/Owner, Kaz Oyama.

This particular dinner was kindly set up by a professor of mine, who'd been to Totoraku many a time before. We'd organized a large party, 12 people in total, including a number of people from the Los Angeles foodie community, including: Aaron of Food Destination, Caroline of Caroline on Crack, Fiona of Gourmet Pigs, Ore of Potential Gold, Ryan of Tangmeister, and Will of FoodDigger.

Totoraku's exterior is completely nondescript, for a reason. The phone number listed is incorrect, and seems to belong to a guy named Rodney T Williams, a real estate attorney in LA. Knock on the locked door, and Oyama-san's wife will answer, only letting you in if you have a reservation for the night. The operation is small, staffed solely by Oyama-san, his wife, his daughter-in-law, and a dishwasher.

The interior continues the trend, which to me adds to the mystique. The room is divided in half; one half is the kitchen, while the other houses five tables of four. Some eclectic artwork adorns the walls, but the most striking design element is the collection of wine bottles dotting the space, hinting at Oyama-san's love of fine wine. I wonder if some of what we brought would be worthy of a spot? As a bonus, we spotted Masi Oka from Heroes dining with a female companion (a date perhaps?)!

A trio of dipping sauces was provided. I believe they were a light soy, lemon juice, and a sweet tare sauce. However, the meat was good enough to render them pretty much unnecessary.

1: Amuse Bouche Assortment
Our meal began with an appealing selection of nine appetizers, to be shared amongst four people:

Cantaloupe and Prosciutto - I'm not usually a huge fan of sweet and savory pairings, but this was surprisingly good. I think it benefited from the ham's relatively light texture and flavor, which really allowed the fruit to come to the fore.
Asparagus and Walnuts - These weren't ordinary walnuts; they appeared to have been marinated in some sort of sweet sauce, which made them stand in stark contrast to the delicate asparagus.
Lobster Salad - This was my favorite item on the plate. The lobster's flesh had a great snap to it and the flavor was extraordinarily clean and crisp, going well with the other elements in the dish.
King Crab Gelée - This was interesting. The crab itself was quite nice, while the gelatin acted as a sort of glue that bound the pieces together.
Sockeye Salmon - Salmon stuffed with avocado and sprouts. What's not to like here? I just wished the piece were bigger!
Hard Boiled Quail Egg with Caviar - Egg and egg, a winning combination. The key here was how the briny tang of caviar penetrated the subtle rich creaminess of the egg.
Japanese Persimmon Salad - This was almost like a "potato salad"-type presentation, with the persimmon acting as a softer, sweeter version of potato.
Momotaro Tomato and Ricotta Cheese - This combination of tomato and cheese made me think of pizza!
Steamed Abalone - The abalone had a very nice texture, not at all tough, with a fine flavor. It was served with zenmai (also known as Japanese royal fern), a type of sansai, or mountain vegetable, and topped with gold flake.

2: Beef Tataki & Beef Throat Sashimi
Next was a duo of barely cooked beef. I tried the beef tataki first. The light searing of the meat gave the exterior a slightly charred, tougher texture that went beautifully with the interior. Pairing this with the provided ginger proved to be an excellent combination. The beef throat, on the other hand, had a bit of a crunch to it, and reminded me of the horse neck sashimi I had in Japan. We were told that it takes one and a half cows to come up with one plate. This was more about the texture than the flavor; very unique and quite nice!

Supplement: Culatello di Zibello Della Consorzio
This next course was not part of the normal meal, but instead brought by Ore. Aged 22 months, the culatello was a type of prosciutto, but more refined and made without the bone. It was from Zibello, a commune of the Province of Parma having DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) status. It was simply fantastic, I'd say the best ham I'd ever tasted in fact, with its slightly sweet flavor over a base of delicate saltiness, and its perfect marriage of lean and fat. Meraviglioso!

3: Beef Tartare
The tartare was basically a version of the Korean dish yukhoe. I'm not sure what the cut of beef used here was, but the accoutrements were raw egg yolk, daikon, cucumber, pine nuts, and what I believe was yamaimo (Japanese mountain yam). In any case, Aaron, being the youngest member of our table, had the honors of mixing the various ingredients into a delicious amalgam. The beef here did not stand out per se; rather, it provided a solid footing to demonstrate the complex, multi-layered flavors of the dish's other components. Most "Western" style tartares suddenly seem blunt compared to this. In fact, Aaron and I both thought that this was reminiscent of a Chinese dish of cold jellyfish salad. Fantastic!

Once the grills were brought out, we knew it was time for the gauntlet of barbecued meats to begin. I was told that they burned binchotan, a traditional Japanese charcoal made from ubame oak.

4: Beef Tongue
I had my first experience with tongue not too long ago, at Tsuruhashi in Fountain Valley. I found the tongue surprisingly tasty there, and I'm happy to report that the tongue here was even better. It was less rubbery and even more tender, while being more flavorful. The meat at Tsuruhashi was a bit chewy, but that wasn't a problem here; it was as luxurious as tongue can be. Simply lovely.

5: Crudités
As a break from all the meat, we were provided with a selection of vegetables, which helped cut the richness of the beef. First was a bowl of lettuce, carrots, and cucumber, all served with a spicy/sweet miso dip. Next, we had Momotaro tomatoes. Named after a Japanese folk hero, Momotaros are one of the most popular varieties in Japan, with a subtle sweetness backed up with a tangy zest.

6: Filet Mignon
Next up were slices of filet mignon with an assortment of veggies: onions, bell peppers, mushrooms (shiitakes I believe), and peppers. Cooked rare, the meat was tender as you'd expect, but also surprisingly flavorsome as well. Given its relatively low fat content, the beef wasn't too heavy and was a great way to kick things off. The quality of meat wouldn't seem out of place at a fine steakhouse.

7: Inside Rib Eye
Compared to the filet, the inside rib eye was richer, fattier, and noticeably stronger in taste. Its marinade successfully complemented the meat's flavor while not overpowering it. I would've liked to have seen the cuts a bit thicker though, to give them more bite.

8: Outside Rib Eye
Also known as rib eye cap, I think this might have been even more unctuous and succulent than the inside rib eye. Meanwhile, the salt and pepper topping did a nice job of heightening the beef's natural flavor. Though both were superb, I'd have to give the edge to the outside over the inside rib eye.

9: Short Rib
This was basically the Japanese take on Korean galbi short ribs. In Korean preparations, the meat is usually very thoroughly marinated. However, here, the meat was of such high caliber that such a thing was largely unnecessary. This was arguably the richest of all the meats, and though galbi can be a bit tough and chewy at times, this was just as tender as any of the other cuts we had.

10: Skirt Steak
The skirt steak is a cut from the underbelly of the cow. Traditionally, it's known to be a flavorful, but tough cut of meat. Fortunately, Oyama-san worked his magic here and I didn't find it to be tough at all, though it was less fatty than most of the other meats we sampled.

11: Kuppa Soup
This was basically a spicy rice soup, derived from the Korean gukbap, which literally means "soup with rice." Pleasantly piquant and not too heavy, it was a fitting close to the savory courses.

12: Selection of Ice Creams and Sorbets
Usually, each person picks one flavor to try, but this time, each table of four got one scoop each of the five varieties offered: pistachio ice cream, lychee sorbet, blueberry sorbet, coffee ice cream, and white chocolate/raspberry ice cream. They were all quite interesting in their own way, but I probably say that dI'd liked the pistachio and lychee the best.

Oyama-san is known to be quite the wine connoisseur, and indeed, guests are expected to share their wines with him. I believe we offered him the Kistler, Único, and Léoville (which he thought was good, but a bit young). Some of the wines benefited from decanting, and in the photo on the right, the first one I opened to let breathe was the Único. There is no corkage charge.

A full recounting of the wines we had follows:

Hakkaisan Daiginjo Sake - We kicked things off with some sake. This was my second experience with the Hakkaisan. I had picked up a bottle of this on my trip to Japan earlier in the year, and I found it to be arguably the best sake I've tasted, exceedingly smooth, with multiple layers of fruity and floral notes. Unfortunately, this one's tough to find here in the States.
2000 Marcel Deiss Gruenspiel, Alsace, France - A mixture of Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer, this one was almost dessert-like in sweetness. Yet at the same time, the sweetness was balanced with just a tinge of acidity, and there were plenty of citrus and stone fruit accents to go around. Finishes smooth and long.
2004 Jermann Vinnaioli Capo Martino, Venezia Giulia, Italy - This was a fascinating blend of Malvasia, Picolit, Ribolla, and Tocai grapes. I'm not sure I've had any of those varietals alone, let alone in a blend. It was a much drier wine compared to the preceding Gruenspiel, with far less fruit but considerably more spice. Quite nice overall.
2005 Bibi Graetz Bugia Bianco, Toscana, Italy - The Bugia is made from Ansonica (a.k.a. Inzolia), an Italian varietal that I have no experience with. Nevertheless, I found it very fascinating and quite liked it, noting hints of lemon and peach, with a bit of oak, in a complex amalgam. Very interesting!
2006 Kistler Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California - This was a table favorite. Loads of light, juicy red fruit hit you first, followed by a bit of heat, leading to a smooth, lingering finish.
2005 Sangiovese - This was a home-brew Sangiovese made by Fiona. I was told the wine was made three years ago, and it was drinking quite well indeed. The wine was fairly spicy, yet soft and smooth. Good job Fiona!
2006 State Lane Cellars Cabernet-Merlot Cyclone, Yountville, California - Cyclone is an unfined and unfiltered blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot, aged in French oak. The taste was prototypical meritage. Perhaps this could've benefited from some more time in the bottle.
1996 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate, Napa Valley, California - In contrast to the Cyclone, this one was ready to drink. I remember an intoxicating nose of dark berry and currant, with the fruit continuing all the way into the finish. Very delicious and well-balanced.
1996 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Único, Ribera del Duero, Spain - This was my first time experiencing Único, which many regard as Spain's most famous wine. It's a Tempranillo blend that really opened up with decanting, showing bits of chocolate and berry, with a refreshing spiciness. Very complex, and very good.
1998 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Méal, Northern Rhône, France - A Syrah-based wine, the Chapoutier was earthy, oaky, with a bit of red fruit thrown in. Quite unique amongst the red wines we had that night, I rather liked it.
2005 Château Fleur Cardinale, St. Émilion, France - This had a much more closed nose compared to the Léoville, and really benefited from its decanting. After a while, the wine demonstrated surprisingly soft tannins and notes of cassis and chocolate. Quite drinkable now, but probably better with age.
2000 Château Léoville Las Cases, St. Julien, France - A rich, lush wine, this was packed with cassis and dark berry, with a nice bit of minerality to boot. Delicious now, but as Oyama-san mentioned, this would likely be even better with a few more years in the bottle.
1996 Château de Rayne-Vigneau, Sauternes, France - A Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend, this had some nice acidity to balance its intense, honeyed sweetness and loads of stone fruit and citrus. It was arguably overwhelming compared to the delicate flavors of the ice cream we ate with it.

When all was said and done, the total cost for this one-of-a-kind experience was $180, all-inclusive. This is pricey for yakiniku, but the cost can't distract from the fact that it was also the best yakiniku (and arguably the best barbequed meat) I've ever had. The beef was simply marvelous, so flavorful, so tender, yet without the overt fattiness of Wagyu. Oyama-san won't reveal the source of his meat, only saying that it's "custom" beef from right here in the United States.

Totoraku definitely isn't an everyday place; rather, eating here is an occasion all by itself. At the end of the evening, I did receive Oyama-san's business card, which, in theory, means I can now make a reservation for myself. I can't wait to test it out!

Leatherby's Cafe Rouge (Costa Mesa, CA) [2]

2008-10-26T18:45:00.000-07:00

Leatherby's Cafe Rouge
615 Town Center Dr, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714-429-7640
www.patinagroup.com/cafeRouge/
Sun 10/26/2008, 06:45p-08:50p

On my last visit, I wrote that Leatherby's was a "restaurant still trying to find its own identity." That was 13 months ago, and unfortunately the restaurant has still not found its way. In that span, Leatherby's has gone through a number of head chefs, with each trying, and failing, to find a formula that works. Enter Don Schoenburg, a self-described "fixer," brought in to turn things around. Prior to Leatherby's, Schoenburg was Executive Chef at Tradition by Pascal, a well-regarded French eatery in Newport. In our discussions with the Chef, he talked about his deep understanding of the Orange County palate (vis-à-vis Los Angeles), and it was obvious to us that he had a keen eye on the business side of things as well, even claiming to know the exact costs of the ingredients on our plates!

Chef Schoenburg informed us that the Leatherby's space would undergo a dramatic remodeling in the near future. The area shown above will be converted into a lounge, with totally updated furnishings and new lighting. To go along with this, a happy hour and wine bar concept will be instituted.

The menus turned out to be fairly similar to what we encountered last time. We decided to try the Four-course Prix Fixe [$45.00] and the seasonal Mushroom Festival Four-course Prix Fixe [$48.00], while supplementing with two courses. Click for larger versions.

We started the meal off with a beer, the fantastic La Chouffe pale ale from Brasserie d'Achouffe [$36.00]. Brasserie d'Achouffe, founded in 1982, is a relatively new Belgian brewery located in Achouffe, and this was my first time having any of their beers. La Chouffe is an unfiltered blonde beer, refermented in the bottle as well as the keg. It was one of the best beers I'd ever tasted, with strong fruity notes that hit you initially, followed up with a light spiciness and mild hoppiness. Superb! We then moved on to a red wine, the Jacques Girardin Les Gollardes, Savigny Les Beaune, 2006 [$77.00]. The wine was extremely light, both in color and body, with loads of light red fruit on the nose, followed by a bit of cherry and smoke on the palate. Finally, we were treated to complementary glasses of Alvear, Pedro Ximénez, Montilla-Moriles, Solera 1927, an intensely sweet sherry that held its own against the desserts.

Surprisingly, the bread selection was exactly the same as before: baguette, cheese, and olive, with my favorite once again being the cheese.

1a: Mushroom Terrine
Balsamic reduction, toasted pecan. Though described as a "terrine" by our server, the mushrooms seemed merely sautéed to me. In any case, the natural flavor of the mushrooms was nicely accentuated by the bitterness of arugula and tartness of balsamic, while the pecans added an intriguing textural contrast.

1b: Wild Mushroom Cappuccino
Porcini dust. This was basically a mushroom soup, looking like a convincing copy of cappuccino. It was a rich, hearty stock that really showcased the earthy flavor of mushroom. The creamy, frothy texture was an added bonus.

2a: Arugula Salad
Wild arugula, oven dried tomato, fresh mozzarella and roasted garlic dressing. Eaten alone, the arugula provided a strangely satisfying bitterness that easily held its own against the garlic dressing. The key here, though, was to eat the mozzarella and tomato with the greens and note their flavor against the arugula's background of bitterness, almost like a slightly twisted insalata caprese.

2b: Warm Watercress Salad
Thom ka kai marinated mushrooms, toasted cashews. Thom ka kai, or tom kha gai, is a Thai hot and sour soup made with coconut milk, lemon grass, and chicken. It definitely gave the mushrooms a unique Thai tinge, which I rather liked, and which went well with the watercress' own unique tang. I would've preferred the cashews a bit crisper though.

Supplement 1: Southern Rock Lobster Salad [$15.00]
Mache, citrus supremes, grapefruit vinaigrette. The sweetness of the mache base paired well with the sweetness of lobster, but this combination was lost in the other flavors of the dish. The citrus, vinaigrette, and pomegranate seeds all resulted in a sourness that hid the natural flavor of the lobster, which should've been the star here.

Supplement 2: French Trio [$18.00]
Escargot, sweetbreads and foie gras. The escargot was my favorite item in this troika. It was a traditional Bourguignon presentation, cooked in garlic butter, and served atop a delightful puffy pastry. The foie gras, meanwhile, was a typical preparation and a bit too sweet for me. Finally, the sweetbreads had a nicely cooked, golden brown exterior that gave way to a richly flavored, slightly gamey interior; overall it was quite nice.

3a: Quail
Black truffle sausage, butternut squash, chanterelle mushrooms and Cognac sauce. The was easily one of the best preparations of "quail" I'd ever had. I use quotes as this wasn't really quail, but a quail shell stuffed with a truffled sausage made of chicken. It was quickly apparent that this wasn't a typical bird, once I saw that it was basically a large lump of meat, no bones, no entrails, with wings and legs attached. The sausage had a spongy textural a bit reminiscent of meatloaf, and was simply marvelous, especially when eaten with the quail's crisp skin. I was impressed at how well-integrated the sausage was; it was tough to determine where the sausage ended and quail began! The accompanying chanterelles were a nice touch, but the butternut squash purée was completely redundant.

3b: Prime New York Steak
Portobello mushroom gratin, sauce à la forestière. The gratin was interesting, basically a cheesy layer on top of a portobello mushroom. Forestière sauce is a rich, mildly sweet brown sauce made with mushrooms and beef stock. Here, it added a lot to the beef, which otherwise would've been quite boring. The beef itself was nice enough, but paled in comparison to the Wagyu steaks I've had at places such as CUT. Again, as with the previous dish, I didn't care for the butternut squash.

4a: Crème Caramel with Fresh Seasonal Berries
Crème Caramel, or simply flan, is a custard dessert with a layer of soft caramel on top. The custard portion was nicely dense, rich, and very sweet, while the berries added a contrasting tartness. A delicious dessert, but nothing groundbreaking.

4b: Ile Flottante
Slow-baked meringues, crème anglaise, bittersweet chocolate mousse. This, on the other hand, was much more interesting. "Ile Flottante" is French for "floating island," or a dessert consisting of an "island" of meringue floating in a "sea" of crème anglaise. The meringue consisted of both the light, airy uncooked variety (the "stem" of the mushroom) and the classic dry cookie-like version (the "cap"). Both preparations were quite mild, and benefitted from the surrounding ocean of sweet crème française.

Though not as strong as last time, this meal at Leatherby's was nevertheless quite enjoyable. In fact, I still think it's one of the best restaurants in Orange County. It is thus unfortunate to see the place in such a constant state of flux, which I've heard blamed on things such as an odd location and lack of marketing. I don't think the food is a problem. New Executive Chef Schoenburg has a reputation for turning places around, so it's my hope that he can work his magic here at Leatherby's.