tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86672713303003369852024-03-18T06:46:39.630-07:00kevinEatskevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.comBlogger1542125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-78022010099313620322024-03-16T00:23:00.000-07:002024-03-16T00:23:36.267-07:00HiLinks: <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2012/08/index-of-posts.html">Index of Posts</a> | <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2011/01/kevineatscom-interactive-dining-map.html">Interactive Dining Map</a> | <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2012/09/the-best-thing-i-ever-ate.html">The Best Thing I Ever Ate</a> | <a href="http://www.twitter.com/kevineats" target="_blank">Twitter</a> | <a href="http://www.instagram.com/therealkevineats/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>
<!-- Check out the <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2012/08/index-of-posts.html">Index of Posts</a> to view a list of all the restaurants that I've visited. Or, see the <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2011/01/kevineatscom-interactive-dining-map.html">Interactive Dining Map</a> and <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2012/09/the-best-thing-i-ever-ate.html">The Best Thing I Ever Ate</a>, a list of my favorites dishes of all time.
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<em>Note: "kevineats" on Instagram is *not* me, so you can stop following. However, I do have <a href="http://www.instagram.com/therealkevineats/" target="_blank">@therealkevineats</a>, and also maintain a <a href="http://www.twitter.com/kevineats" target="_blank">Twitter account</a>.</em> -->kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com169tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-77966549484403454892023-12-29T16:00:00.000-08:002024-03-16T00:37:15.435-07:00De La Nonna (Los Angeles, CA)<b><i>De La Nonna Restaurant<br>
710 E 4th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90013 / 312 S Alameda Street, Los Angeles, CA 90013<br>
213-221-1268<br>
<a href="http://www.delanonna.com" target="_blank">www.delanonna.com</a><br>
Fri 12/29/2023, 04:00p-05:40p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/20231229_160510+20231229_160509+20231229_160507+20231229_160505+20231229_160501+20231229_160459+20231229_160458+20231229_160456.jpg" width="1130" height="400" border="3" alt="Da La Nonna Exterior">
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Some friends and I recently attended the <a href="http://kingpleasure.basquiat.com" target="_blank">Jean-Michel Basquiat exhibition</a> held at The Grand LA, and needed somewhere to have an early dinner afterward. We ended up walking over to the Arts District to dine at De La Nonna, a pizza-focused spot centered on Detroit-slash-Sicilian-style pies. The place opened back in November 2021, and comes to us from principals Patrick Costa, Jose L. Cordon, and Lee Zaremba. And if you're curious about the name, it means "from the grandmother" in a mash-up of Spanish and Italian, a nod to Cordon and Costa's heritage.
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<u><em>About the Partners</em></u>: Executive Chef duties are handled by SoCal native Patrick Costa, who was born in August 1983 to a mother who was a Navy officer. He thus traveled often as a youngster, and even spent a portion of his childhood in Rome with his Italian family. He later moved to Chicagoland to attend Lake Forest College, achieving a bachelor's degree in international relations in 2005. However, the kitchen beckoned, and Costa thus decided to pursue a culinary career, eventually finding himself working at Boka Restaurant Group's Perennial in Chicago, which opened in June 2008 under the watch of Giuseppe Tentori and Ryan Poli. In September 2009, he joined Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, and became a chef de partie at Laurent Gras' <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2009/05/l2o-chicago-il.htm" target="_blank">L2O</a>.
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From there, he moved back to LA and helped Jeff Mahin launch Stella Rossa Pizza Bar, which opened in Santa Monica in April 2011. This was another LEYE project, and spawned Hollywood's Stella Barra Pizzeria two years later. However, Costa left the company in May 2014. Afterward, he became Exec Chef at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2013/02/the-hart-and-hunter-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">The Hart and The Hunter</a>, where he stayed for a year. He then joined Reiss Co to oversee culinary operations for the entire group (<a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2011/11/sunny-spot-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Sunny Spot</a>, <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2013/09/salt-air-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Salt Air</a>, Vito's Pizza). Costa departed Dave Reiss' side in May 2018, then began consulting for Boise's <a href="http://www.wylderhospitalitygroup.com" target="_blank">Wylder Hospitality</a>, which lasted until April 2019. He then started working with Tartine, and opened the bakery's SaMo location in March 2020. However, the pandemic struck shortly thereafter, and thus the Chef teamed up with longtime friend Jose Cordon to launch a pizza pop-up called De La Nonna.
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Born in November 1984, Jose Luis Cordon hails from the Chicago area, and graduated from St Viator High School in 2002. He began his hospitality career two years later, working his way up from host and barback roles to positions in bartending and management. His last post in Chicago was at Community Tavern in Portage Park, where he was opening beverage director. He left at the end of May 2016, relocated to LA the next week, and soon found work at the Viceroy L'Ermitage in Beverly Hills. In August 2017, Cordon moved over to Ever Bar at the new Kimpton Everly Hotel in Hollywood, and during this period, also worked with cocktail catering company N2 Mixology. In early 2018, he began a role as bar manager at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2017/05/felix-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Felix</a>, where he stayed until DLN came into the picture.
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De La Nonna first popped up at the end of August 2020 at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2015/09/dudley-market-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Dudley Market</a> in Venice. From there, it moved over to <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2022/05/melody-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Melody</a> in Virgil Village, and then to WeHo Night Market, which was held at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2018/05/employees-only-west-hollywood-ca.html" target="_blank">Employees Only</a>. In the first half of 2021, DLN also spent time up north at Bodega Los Alamos, as well as at Little Prince in Santa Monica, and it was in April that year when Zaremba joined the crew.
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Lee Michael Zaremba was born in December 1981, and originally comes from Iselin, New Jersey, near Edison. However, he spent his teenage years in Cincinnati, where he began his hospitality career by bussing tables. In 2004, he relocated to Illinois to study advertising at Columbia College Chicago. After finishing up in 2007, he worked in marketing and PR, but soon realized that such as career wasn't for him. Zaremba thus decided to travel and focus on his breakdancing, and upon returning to Chicagoland, he found himself bartending at Ripasso in Wicker Park.
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Not long after, he transitioned to Simone's Bar in Pilsen, then joined Logan Square cocktail bar Billy Sunday in December 2012. He eventually worked his way up the ranks from bartender to GM, and then to beverage director for parent company <a href="http://www.folkartmanagement.com" target="_blank">Folkart Management</a>. Zaremba left in March 2017 for a position at Boka Restaurant Group, where he oversaw the beverage programs for numerous BRG properties until November 2020. Following, he moved to LA and began work on turning De La Nonna from a pop-up into a proper eatery.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/20231229_160522+20231229_160524+20231229_160525+20231229_160528+20231229_160532+20231229_160533+20231229_160535+20231229_160539.jpg" width="1130" height="400" border="3" alt="Da La Nonna Interior"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/20231229_160424+20231229_160426+20231229_160427+20231229_160429+20231229_160431+20231229_160432+20231229_160433+20231229_160435+20231229_160436+20231229_160438+20231229_160439.jpg" width="1130" height="325" border="3" alt="Da La Nonna Dining Indoor/Outdoor Dining Areas"><br>
De La Nonna takes over the former home of Lupetti Pizzeria, which opened back at the end of July 2018 but shuttered during the pandemic. The restaurant was redone by partner Heather Tierney of <a href="https://www.wanderlustdesign.com" target="_blank">Wanderlust Design</a> (who's also behind <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2018/03/apotheke-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Apotheke</a> and The Butcher's Daughter), and now sports an aesthetic that's simultaneously grandma-like, tropical, and retro. There's quite a bit of outdoor seating available, as you can see.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/20231229_160221l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/20231229_160221.jpg" width="232" height="300" border="3" alt="De La Nonna Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/20231229_160214l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/20231229_160214.jpg" width="232" height="300" border="3" alt="De La Nonna Beverage List"></a><br>
And here's the menu, which features a number of appetizer-ish dishes to go along with those rectangular pizzas. Meanwhile, beverage options include Italian-inspired cocktails, a couple beers, and low-priced, natural-leaning, mostly Italian wines. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04657.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Bluefin Tuna Tartare"><br>
<strong>Bluefin Tuna Tartare [$17.00]</strong> | Olive Tapenade, Pepperoncini, Tonnato, Crostini<br>
Up first was a tuna tartar that was a bit too assertive with its use of tapenade and peperoncini. The piquancy of those two ingredients tended to overpower the fish, though fortunately, the creaminess of the tonnato sauce toned things down, and I liked that smoky, toasty bread, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04653.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Jupiter Jazz"><br>
<strong>Jupiter Jazz [$16.00]</strong> | Mezcal, Passionfruit & Pineapple w/ Hazelnut & Lime<br>
My first cocktail demonstrated those tropical, passion fruit-powered flavors I expected, juxtaposed against hits of citrus and sweet spices.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04671.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Kanpachi Crudo"><br>
<strong>Kanpachi Crudo [$18.00]</strong> | Asian Pear, Pomegranate, Lime Leaf & Chili<br>
Our next raw fish preparation was much more successful, and definitely a favorite of mine. The amberjack ate slick and supple, and paired beautifully with the dish's prickly, peppery heat. Also crucial was the apple pear, which imparted a juicy sweetness that worked for contrast.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04681.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="House-Made Grilled Focaccia"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04679.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Whipped Eggplant"><br>
<strong>Whipped Eggplant [$14.00]</strong> | w/ Calabrian XO Sauce<br>
I'm usually not a huge eggplant fan, but this version was another highlight for me. The marriage of smoky <em>melanzana</em> and the stinging heat of XO was outstanding, and matched up seamlessly with that grilled house-made focaccia.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04687.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Roasted Cali Baby Yams"><br>
<strong>Roasted Cali Baby Yams [$12.00]</strong> | Harissa Butter, Chives, Pickled Red Onion, Crispy Shallot<br>
The sweet potatoes were also an accomplishment. Not surprisingly, the yams came out soft and sweet, but not too sweet, and melded easily with the restrained pungency of that harissa-boosted butter. However, the crux for me here was the use of pickled onions, which offered up both a countering acidity and a well-placed crunch.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04699.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Hot Buttered Rum"><br>
<strong>Hot Buttered Rum [$14.00]</strong> | Amaro, Aged Rum, Brown Sugar, Butter and Baking Spices<br>
My next choice of cocktail was a mostly traditional hot buttered rum, which felt appropriate given the weather. The drink was as hot and buttery as its name would imply, and showed off just enough of those sweet spices, along with a hint of bitterness from the amaro.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04709.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Burrata & Focaccia"><br>
<strong>Burrata & Focaccia [$15.00]</strong> | Grilled Grapes, Fig Vincotto, Olive Oil & Sea Salt<br>
And now we come to the least effective dish of the evening. The combination of the mozzarella and grapes seemed disjointed, and the flavors just didn't coalesce as well as I was hoping for, though once again, the toasted focaccia was on point.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04711.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Pepp"><br>
<strong>Pepp [$18.00 + $2.00]</strong> | Pepperoni, Tomato, Mozz, Pecorino + Add Spicy Honey<br>
Time for some pizza. Our first showcased those classic pepperoni flavors you want, but set against the sweet heat of spicy honey. In terms of the crust, it was somewhat bread-like, and generally light and tender, but with some nice crispy burnt bits.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04721.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="White"><br>
<strong>White [$17.00]</strong> | Japanese Sweet Potato, Fennel, Onion, Pesto & Mozz<br>
This next pizza ended up as my favorite of the three. The key here was really the pie's pesto-fueled freshness and herbaceousness, and how that played with the sweetness of the <em>satsuma-imo</em>.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04725.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Old Fashie"><br>
<strong>Old Fashie [$16.00]</strong> | Rye Whiskey, Amaro, Coffee Bean & Citrus Oil<br>
The evening's final cocktail was this old fashioned variation, one that was surprisingly buttery, and also displayed plenty of herby, bitter notes, as well as a touch of astringency from the coffee.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04717.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sicilian"><br>
<strong>Sicilian [$16.00 + $4.00]</strong> | Capers, Pine Nuts, Tomato, Olives, Red Onion, Red Chili Flake + Add 'Chovies<br>
Our final pie was this Sicilian pizza, which was the most unconventional of the trio. The taste of the anchovy, herbs, and olive was pretty aggressive, but somehow, the nuttiness of the pinoli kept things in check.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04735.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Salted Butterscotch Budino"><br>
<strong>Salted Butterscotch Budino [$9.00]</strong> | Rosemary, Orange & Nutmeg<br>
Moving into dessert, the butterscotch pudding was as rich and sugary as I'd want, with the rosemary and salt preventing the budino from becoming monotonous.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231229-DeLaNonna/DSC04743.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Cannolis"><br>
<strong>Cannolis [$3.00/each]</strong> | Orange Ricotta Cream<br>
Last up were the cannoli, which featured properly crunchy pastry shells stuffed with an airy, citrusy ricotta cream.
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De La Nonna served its purpose admirably, as we all generally enjoyed the food, which was mostly familiar and cozy, but with some unexpected touches that kept things interesting. It's a useful addition to the neighborhood that I could see myself returning to for a casual bite. As for the partners' other projects, they've since launched The Let's Go! Disco & Cocktail Club in an adjacent space that used to house hi-fi bar In Sheep's Clothing. It's a drinking den ostensibly inspired by the Italian discotecas of the 1970s, so I might check it out sometime; there's even an attached pizza slice takeaway window.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-54516455739664257742023-12-27T19:15:00.000-08:002024-03-11T14:07:16.685-07:00Hibi (Los Angeles, CA)<b><i>Hibi by Kabuki<br>
3121 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90006<br>
213-674-7244<br>
<a href="http://www.madebyhibi.com" target="_blank">www.madebyhibi.com</a><br>
Wed 12/27/2023, 07:15p-09:30p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04496+DSC04494+DSC04498.jpg" width="1130" height="374" border="3" alt="Hibi Exterior">
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One of the spots that I wanted to check out by the end of the year was Hibi, and I made it with days to spare. The food here is Korean-inflected Japanese, and just seemed rather interesting, hence my prioritized visit. Curiously, the place is part of <a href="http://www.kaizendining.com" target="_blank">Kaizen Dining Group</a>, a company that's not exactly known for its ambitious cuisine. KDG traces its roots to Kabuki, the middling Japanese-ish chain of restaurants that was started back in 1991 by Korean-American restaurateur David Lee. In fact, it's his progeny Albert Lee and Solomon "Sol" Lee, in concert with Daniel Kim, who are the main principals behind Hibi (which, by the way, means "day to day" in Japanese).
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<u><em>About the Chefs</em></u>: We'll start with Hibi co-founder Albert Lee, who grew up in the midst of his family's restaurants. Following graduation from Arcadia High School in 2002, he studied hospitality management at California State Polytechnic University, Pomona (his father's alma mater), and also worked at the original Kabuki (at 3539 E Foothill Blvd in Pasadena). After starting out as a busboy, he moved up the ladder and eventually became part of the management team, but departed in 2012 in order to enroll in the Le Cordon Bleu program at the California School of Culinary Arts.
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Once he finished his studies there, Albert became a line cook at Michael Cimarusti's seminal <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2022/07/providence-los-angeles-ca-7.html" target="_blank">Providence</a>, where he stayed until 2015. He subsequently relocated to New York, where he worked at Momosan Ramen & Sake, but was back with KDG by 2016. Albert conceptualized Tengoku Ramen Bar for the company, and opened the first location in Arcadia in October 2016, while a second debuted in Koreatown in May 2017; both have since shuttered. He then became KDG's Director of Strategy before launching Hibi with his younger (half-)brother Solomon Lee, who comes from the fashion and music worlds, and was even a musician in Korea.
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Hibi thus soft-opened in September 2022 as a ghost kitchen type of setup serving rice bowls and such. It then became a proper restaurant in April this year, but was still very casual, and even popped up at Smorgasburg and MAMA's Nightmarket. However, that all changed in mid-August, when the Lees brought Chef Daniel Kim on board to completely revamp the menu.
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Boasting over a decade of high-end restaurant experience, Kim cut his teeth at Le Cirque in Las Vegas. In the fall of 2013, he started working at Providence, where he stayed for a few years before moving over to Christopher Kostow's Michelin three-star <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2010/04/restaurant-at-meadowood-st-helena-ca-2.htm" target="_blank">The Restaurant at Meadowood</a> in late 2016. He was a sous chef at TRaM, and during his tenure there, worked with John Hong and Katianna Hong, the couple behind <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/12/yangban-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Yangban</a>. TRaM, sadly, was destroyed by the California wildfires of 2020, and following the restaurant's closure, Kim began hosting pop-up dinners under the Elmira banner and selling homemade chili sauce before being recruited to run Hibi as chef/partner.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/20231227_191843.jpg" width="711" height="400" border="3" alt="Hibi Interior"><br>
Hibi takes over the former home of the short-lived 760 Prime butcher shop. It's a small space to be sure, and what's pictured above is pretty much the whole restaurant.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04647l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04647.jpg" width="194" height="300" border="3" alt="Hibi Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04648l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04648.jpg" width="194" height="300" border="3" alt="Hibi Beverage List"></a><br>
Here we see Hibi's refreshingly compact menu. The restaurant's wine list and selection of beer, sake, and soju are also abbreviated, so you'll probably want to make use of that corkage fee, which is $35 a bottle, limit two. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04514.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="truffle tuna"><br>
<strong>truffle tuna (6 pcs) [$29.00]</strong> | sliced bluefin tuna, winter truffle vinaigrette, puffed rice<br>
Ruby-hued bolts of Spanish bluefin ate slick and savory, and combined perfectly with the nutty crunch of puffed rice and the oceany kick of <em>gamtae</em>, all while that truffle-boosted vin tied the dish together. A strong start.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04504.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="potato salad"><br>
<strong>potato salad [$9.00]</strong> | potatoes, corn, pickled cucumbers, pickled carrots<br>
A Korean-style <em>gamja</em> salad had that creamy consistency I was expecting, and I appreciated both the tang and crunch of the various veggies.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04502.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="2019 de Garde The Broken Truck"><br>
To drink, I brought along the <strong>2019 de Garde The Broken Truck</strong>, a blend of four spontaneously-fermented, oak-aged wild ales, created in collaboration with the former Tin Bucket beer bar out in Portland, OR. The nose was all about inviting aromas of peach and apricot, supported by a cast of sour, funky nuances. Taking a sip, I found the ale earthy and invigorating, its tart, spicy, herbal components joined by more of those stone fruit notes. This was drinking great tonight, and still has plenty of life left in it.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04524.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="kinmedai crudo"><br>
<strong>kinmedai crudo (6 pcs) [$34.00]</strong> | golden eye snapper, yuzu ponzu, scallion oil, smoked young ginger oil, weiser farms daikon, pickled pearl onions<br>
Cuts of splendid alfonsino arrived supple and satisfying, with a clean, sweet taste that married perfectly with the depth and pungency of the scallion-ginger combo, while daikon and onion lightened the mood. It was such a smart, almost profound amalgam of flavors, one that actually wowed me a bit. However, my quibble here was that some sections of the fish's skin were tougher than I'd like.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04532.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="k.f.c."><br>
<strong>k.f.c. [$18.00]</strong> | korean fried hamachi collar, golden sauce, kimchi powder<br>
Twice-fried yellowtail collar came out juicy, sweet, and assertively saline, with a delicate crust infused with somewhat of a celery-like zing, I'm assuming from the kimchi powder. The fish opened up nicely with a squirt of binchotan-grilled Meyer lemon, and also paired well with that Japanese-inspired golden sauce, which was almost Thousand Island-y in nature.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04536.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="maitake mushrooms"><br>
<strong>maitake mushrooms [$17.00]</strong> | binchotan grilled mountain meadow maitake mushrooms, egg dashi sabayon, fermented mushroom powder<br>
The hen-of-the-woods was another highlight. The mushroom had that semi-firm, multifaceted texture I wanted, while its gratifyingly earthy flavors matched up easily with the creaminess of that sabayon, with the shavings of cured egg yolk imparting further facets to the dish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04562.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="abalone"><br>
<strong>abalone [$19.00]</strong> | binchotan grilled abalone, roasted konbu oil, gamtae<br>
Grilled abalone was pretty much spot-on texturally, with a tender, yet slightly chewy bite. Its smoky, savory flavors were on display, and linked up swimmingly with the grassiness of that <em>gamtae</em> seaweed.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04554.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="miso butter cauliflower"><br>
<strong>miso butter cauliflower [$20.00]</strong> | mendoza farms cauliflower, miso butter, crisp iberico, wasabina purée, kizami wasabi<br>
The cauliflower was a favorite of mine. I loved its crunchy, yet yielding texture, and how its smokiness and miso-fueled depth were paired with an almost cheese-y quality and just a hint of heat. Also appreciated was the dollop of purée on the side, which helped brighten things up.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04566.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="bara uni toast"><br>
<strong>bara uni toast [$42.00]</strong> | toasted sourdough bread, bara uni, fresh ikura, miso butter, aged provolone cheese<br>
This sea urchin toast managed to be an unexpected standout. I was a fan of how the sweet, creamy nature of the uni coalesced with all the smoky, savory forces in the dish, but the real surprise was how well the provolone melded with everything without becoming overpowering. Meanwhile, the miso butter was also crucial, since it served as a sort of overarching element that helped integrate the dish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04578.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="scallops"><br>
<strong>scallops (3 pcs) [$28.00]</strong> | hokkaido scallops, roasted butternut squash, butternut squash purée, white kimchi<br>
Scallops were cooked a tad more than I would've liked, but fortunately that didn't pose too much of a concern. I was actually really impressed by how well the butternut squash functioned, given that I tend to find the ingredient overly sugary. However, that wasn't the case here, and instead, I got this curry-like sweet spice that meshed with the scallops surprisingly beautifully.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04628.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="stuffed chicken wings"><br>
<strong>stuffed chicken wings (4 pcs) [$21.00]</strong> | binchotan grilled chicken wings, taré, stuffed with garlic ginger rice, perilla leaves<br>
Charcoal-grilled wings demonstrated a lovely smoke, and I enjoyed the ease with which the bird combined with its filling of delicately-seasoned rice and zippy perilla.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04620.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="kyoto white yuzu ale"><br>
With the de Garde above dispensed with, I ordered a bottle of the <strong>kyoto white yuzu ale [$12]</strong> to last me the rest of the meal. As expected, the beer was easy-going and refreshing, and stood up admirably to the food thanks to its floral, spicy, yuzu-spiked flavors.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04584.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="seasonal catch (undressed)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04616.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="seasonal catch"><br>
<strong>seasonal catch [$65.00]</strong> | binchotan grilled seasonal fish, yuzu beurre blanc, fresh ikura<br>
The catch of the day was <em>kurodai</em>, or black seabream. The snapper was as juicy and saline as I was expecting, and showed off a delectably crispy skin to boot. At the same time, the beurre blanc was quite delicate, and actually paired better than I anticipated with the fish, complementing it without ever getting in the way. I got some nice pops of salt from the salmon roe, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04590.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="grilled seasonal vegetables"><br>
Our black snapper was accompanied by a few side dishes. The broccolini was my favorite of the bunch due to its delightful smoke, perked up by pinpricks of tartness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04606.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="assorted japanese pickles"><br>
A trio of pickled vegetables comprised what seemed like cauliflower kimchi, something <em>suan cai</em>-esque, and a fairly familiar <em>fukujinzuke</em>.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04600.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="coal roasted sweet potatoes"><br>
Charcoal-roasted sweet potatoes were comfortingly soft and sticky, and featured both a smokiness and a sour heat to go along with their inherent sweetness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04596.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="garlic ginger rice"><br>
The rice was unexpectedly tasty, even on its own, and boasted a lovely garlickiness and a just-sticky-enough texture.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231227-Hibi/DSC04632.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="miso caramel bar"><br>
<strong>miso caramel bar [$18.00]</strong> | black pepper ice cream, kinako, cinnamon crumble, miso caramel sauce<br>
There's but one dessert at Hibi, and it did seem like a bit of an afterthought. I was hoping for something crisp on the outside but gooey on the inside, but the cake ate drier and tougher than it should've. That being said, the flavors were on point, with the richness of the caramel really making a lot of sense with the ice cream and the dessert's subtly sweet spices.
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Hibi ended up being a great way to close out 2023 with, and in fact, this is some of the most exciting food I've had in LA all year. The kitchen's Michelin-level training was evident, and manifested itself in some clever cooking that was simultaneously brash yet finessed, gusty yet elegant. The team here really shows a lot of promise, and things look like they're only going to get better. In early 2024, Hibi will be shifting to a tasting menu format, which I'm confident will allow the restaurant to elevate the cuisine even further, so I'm definitely anticipating that.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-35949231414306232112023-12-26T20:40:00.000-08:002024-03-06T11:50:19.076-08:00Majordomo (Los Angeles, CA) [3]<b><i>Majordōmo Restaurant<br>
1725 Naud St, Los Angeles, CA 90012<br>
323-545-4880<br>
<a href="http://www.majordomo.la" target="_blank">www.majordomo.la</a><br>
Tue 12/26/2023, 08:40p-11:40p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04268+DSC04270+DSC04272.jpg" width="1130" height="350" border="3" alt="Majordomo Exterior">
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David Chang's <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2018/03/majordomo-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Majordomo</a> opened back at the start of 2018 to sizeable anticipation and considerable fanfare. The place was pretty difficult to get into during those early years, but the hype has since died down, and the restaurant has grown into a reliable Chinatown dining stalwart, and thus was the perfect choice for a recent late-ish, post-Christmas dinner.
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Somewhat surprisingly, Chang has kept a relatively low profile in LA over the past few years. There was supposed to be a Momofuku Noodle Bar in WeHo, but that didn't end up happening. An outpost of Fuku did open at the SOCIALEATS food hall in Santa Monica back in September 2019, but shut down during the pandemic, only to be briefly revived as part of Kitchen United MIX, which replaced SOCIALEATS. Fuku then embraced a ghost kitchen model, but that experiment was poorly received, and the mini-chain now appears to be limited to just two locations in NYC and concession duty at various sporting venues.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204136+20231226_204137+20231226_204139+20231226_204141+20231226_204143+20231226_204145+20231226_204147+20231226_204149+20231226_204151+20231226_204153.jpg" width="1130" height="359" border="3" alt="Majordomo Interior"><br>
Pictured above is the view from my seat at the northern edge of Majordomo's dining room. Things haven't really changed all that much over the years, which isn't a bad thing.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_203955l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_203955.jpg" width="377" height="300" border="3" alt="Majordomo Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204031l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204031.jpg" width="118" height="300" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wines by the Glass & Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204047l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204047.jpg" width="118" height="300" border="3" alt="Majordomo Sake, Beer & Beverage List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204122l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204122.jpg" width="171" height="300" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine Pairing"></a><br>
As for the menu, new dishes have certainly been added by Chef Jude Parra-Sickels since my last visit, though the same general feel remains. We also see the restaurant's cocktail list, wines by the glass selection, and array of sakes, beers, and sundry other beverages. Meanwhile, the wine pairing option appears to be new. Click for larger versions.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204313l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204313.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List Introduction"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204316l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204316.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wines by the Glass List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204331l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204331.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Sake List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204334l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204334.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Magnums List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204343l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204343.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Sparkling"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204346l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204346.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Sparkling"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204359l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204359.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: White"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204402l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204402.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: White"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204410l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204410.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: White"></a><br>
<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204431l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204431.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: White"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204440l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204440.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: White"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204444l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204444.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: White"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204451l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204451.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: White"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204455l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204455.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Skin Contact & Rosé"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204507l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204507.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204512l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_204512.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205401l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205401.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205404l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205404.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a><br>
<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205412l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205412.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205414l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205414.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205421l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205421.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205424l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205424.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205439l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205439.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205442l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205442.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205536l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205536.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205540l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205540.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205639l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205639.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Cocktails & Spirits Divider"></a><br>
<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205642l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205642.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205649l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205649.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Spirits List: Gin, Vodka, Shochu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205652l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205652.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Spirits List: Agave"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205701l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205701.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Spirits List: Bourbon, Rye"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205704l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205704.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Spirits List: California, Ireland, Australian, Scotland"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205718l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205718.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Spirits List: Japan"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205721l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205721.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Spirits List: Cane"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205739l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205739.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Spirits List: Brandy, Herbal Liquers"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205743l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_205743.jpg" width="110" height="180" border="3" alt="Majordomo Spirits List: Herbal Liquers"></a><br>
One thing that has changed is the wine list. Currently managed by Lead Sommelier Ryan Kraemer (Bungalow Kitchen, <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/11/71above-los-angeles-ca-2.html" target="_blank">71Above</a>, Yusho in Chicago, PM in Nashville) and Hana Liu, it's quite a bit better these days. Corkage is $40 for the first two bottles, then $60 for each bottle thereafter, while magnums demand $70 a pop. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04316.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="½ Dozen Oysters"><br>
<strong>½ Dozen Oysters [$26.00]</strong> | kimchi, kombu mignonette<br>
The evening commenced with a half-dozen oysters. I started with the Beausoleils (in the front), which showed off a delicate brine, while the Black Magics were noticeably more saline. The condiments really delivered as well. I appreciated the zingy acidity from the seaweed-boosted mignonette, but even better was that delightfully sweet-n-sour kimchi cocktail sauce.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04282.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="MSG Martini"><br>
<strong>MSG Martini [$17.00]</strong> | ford's gin, oka kura dry bermutto, umami two ways<br>
Apéritif duties were handled by this martini variation. The cocktail had those cool, boozy, botanical aromas I was expecting, but layered with a healthy dosing of citrus. The taste is where the umami really came into play, as the drink was unabashedly savory in disposition. In fact, it was all a bit much, though the Japanese vermouth did help tone things down a bit.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04328.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sliced Hiramasa"><br>
<strong>Sliced Hiramasa [$22.00]</strong> | fish sauce ponzu, citrus, mint<br>
Tidy shards of yellowtail kingfish ate light and clean, with a lovely texture. The fish paired well with the punchy taste of the ponzu, and I liked the dish's overarching notes of citrus, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04348.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Bing"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04344.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Butter, Honey, Black Truffle"><br>
<strong>Bing – Butter, Honey, Black Truffle [$26.00]</strong><br>
Majordomo is fairly well-known for its <em>bing</em>, and for good reason. The Chinese-style flatbread showed off a wonderfully fluffy, multi-layered consistency, and was tasty just by itself. However, as delish as it was, it was indeed much improved when matched with its sugary, musky, and oh-so buttery accoutrements. A favorite.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04292.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Autumn's Child"><br>
<strong>Autumn's Child [$17.00]</strong> | lairds bonded apple brandy, lermorton poire cider, amaro, quince, sakura, bitters, cocchi americano, lemon<br>
My second cocktail was a completely different story than my first. It was decidedly assertive with its orchard fruit flavors, and also conveyed a good amount of sweet spices, making it rather apropos for the season.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04356.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Fried Cauliflower"><br>
<strong>Fried Cauliflower [$18.00]</strong> | pineapple vinaigrette, cilantro, red onion<br>
Given my proclivity for cauliflower, I was obviously curious about this next dish. I reveled in its rich, umami-driven flavors, countered by touches of tartness and heat, though I just wish that the florets were crunchier.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04366.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Grilled Shrimp"><br>
<strong>Grilled Shrimp [$36.00]</strong> | jalapeño, garlic, lemon<br>
I ended up eating the shrimp whole, replete with head and shell, and found them mouthwateringly seasoned, with sophisticated spicing and a welcomed tang.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04374.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Banana Chocolate Old Fashioned"><br>
<strong>Banana Chocolate Old Fashioned [$16.00]</strong> | copalli cacao rum, thai baby banana, miso, tempus fugit crème de banana & chocolate<br>
This riff on an old fashioned demonstrated a surprisingly savory nose, though one with touches of mint and banana. Tasting it, I got cocoa up front, along with restrained banana and more mint, all grounded by the boozy weight of the rum. Overall, the cocktail wasn't nearly as dessert-y as I'd expected.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04358.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Roasted Pumpkin"><br>
<strong>Roasted Pumpkin [$16.00]</strong> | mole, pickled red onion, oregano<br>
I'm generally not a huge fan of pumpkin, but this was a standout tonight. The key was how the squash's smoky sweetness so effortlessly linked up with the nutty heat of that mole, and I quite liked the acidity provided by those pickled onions, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04400.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Macaroni & Chickpea"><br>
<strong>Macaroni & Chickpea [$58.00]</strong> | miso, black pepper, black truffle<br>
This chickpea miso-enhanced pasta arrived well-textured, with a nice chew on the noodles, and the classically woodsy, earthy flavors of the truffle certainly made sense in this application.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04430.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Tepache Junglebird"><br>
<strong>Tepache Junglebird [$18.00]</strong> | casco viejo tequila, mal bien espadin mezcal, caffo red bitter, tepache, five spice, pineapple, agave, lime<br>
My second long cocktail went down easy. Think bittersweet spices, plenty of tangy pineapple, and nary any trace of booze.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04408.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Duck Confit Crispy Rice"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04424.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Duck Confit Crispy Rice (Mixed)"><br>
<strong>Duck Confit Crispy Rice [$51.00]</strong> | cranberry, leeks, shiso<br>
I'm a sucker for crispy rice, so it should come as no surprise that this was another favorite of mine. In addition to the generous portions of crispy, toasty <em>nurungji</em>, I also enjoyed all those soft, deeply-flavored shreds of duck. The bird was further complemented by the fruitiness of cranberry and what seemed like crunchy, candied hazelnuts, while the leeks and shiso lightened the mood.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04438.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Grilled Wagyu Zabuton"><br>
<strong>Grilled Wagyu Zabuton [$83.00]</strong> | steak diane sauce<br>
Our final savory was this Denver steak, which was spot-on in terms of texture, and boasted a satisfying beefiness to boot. However, I found the accompanying sauce a bit overwhelming, as it tended to cover up the inherent tastiness of the meat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04444.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Missionary's Downfall Frozen"><br>
<strong>Missionary's Downfall Frozen [$17.00]</strong> | sweet potato shochu, 3 rum blend, kikori rice whiskey, peach, shiso, mint, honey, pineapple, lime<br>
The night's penultimate libation was this reworked version of a tiki classic. Not too surprisingly, the cocktail went in an unabashedly tropical, sweet, fruity direction, with just a smidge of herbiness. The frozen consistency of the drink was rather nice, too.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_231725l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/20231226_231725.jpg" width="147" height="300" border="3" alt="Majordomo Dessert Menu & After-Dinner Drinks List"></a><br>
And here we see Majordomo's dessert menu and selection of after-dinner drinks. Click for a larger version.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04484.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Pandan Pie"><br>
<strong>Pandan Pie [$10.00]</strong> | coconut, palm sugar<br>
I have hard time resisting pandan, and indeed, its grassy, ricey warmth was well conveyed here, set against the toasty sweetness of coconut. In addition, I quite liked the pie's brûléed top.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04474.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Domoquito"><br>
<strong>Domoquito [$20.00]</strong> | mt. gay xo rum, mars iwai tradition whiskey, amaro braulio, coconut, condensed milk, nutmeg, cinnamon<br>
Our last cocktail was decidedly dessert-y, and highlighted the back-and-forth between coconut, dairy, and fragrant baking spices, offset by just enough bitterness and booziness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231226-Majordomo/DSC04482.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Citrus Pavlova"><br>
<strong>Citrus Pavlova [$19.00]</strong> | brown butter, mint<br>
Finishing out the meal was one of the better pavlovas I've had as of late. I appreciated how the refreshing bits of citrus paired with the meringue, while just as crucial were the heftier notes from the brown butter.
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The past several years have been tough for David Chang restaurants. Since my first visit to Majordomo, we've seen the closures of Má Pêche (June 2018), Momofuku Nishi (May 2020), Bar Wayō (May 2020, after opening in July 2019), Kāwi/Peach Mart (March 2021, after opening in March 2019), Momofuku Ssäm Bar (September 2023, after relocating in April 2021), and most painfully, Momofuku Ko (November 2023). And that's just New York. Thus, in its hometown, the company is down to just two Momofuku Noodle Bar locations (the second opened in November 2018) and one very casual Bāng Bar (open October 2018), in addition to a few Fukus.
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In Las Vegas, both Majordomo Meat & Fish (open December 2019) and Moon Palace (open January 2020) at The Palazzo shuttered in June 2022, though Momofuku and Bāng Bar (open April 2021) are still around at The Cosmopolitan. In Washington DC, Momofuku CCDC closed in May 2020. In Sydney, Momofuku Seiōbo's final service took place in late June 2021. Finally, the tri-level Momofuku location in Toronto (which held Noodle Bar and Kōjin) came to an end in December 2022.
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Thus, outside of the aforementioned restaurants remaining in NYC and Vegas, Majordomo is the only other entity left of the once thriving Momofuku empire. Given this grim situation, I really hope that Majordomo can hang on, because the food here is pretty damn good. This really is a key spot for the Chinatown (and Downtown) dining scene, so let's keep our fingers crossed.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-57156028168552536082023-12-23T19:55:00.000-08:002024-03-04T12:30:51.045-08:00Angry Egret Dinette (Los Angeles, CA) [2]<b><i>Angry Egret Dinette at Mandarin Plaza<br>
970 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012<br>
213-278-0987<br>
<a href="http://www.angryegretdinette.com" target="_blank">www.angryegretdinette.com</a> / <a href="http://www.aedinette.com" target="_blank">www.aedinette.com</a><br>
Sat 12/23/2023, 07:55p-09:20p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/DSC04252+DSC04250+DSC04246+DSC04254.jpg" width="1130" height="300" border="3" alt="Angry Egret Dinette Exterior">
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I last checked in with Chef Wes Avila not too long after he opened <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2021/04/angry-egret-dinette-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Angry Egret Dinette</a> in Chinatown as a pandemic-era, takeout-focused, daytime-only spot. The place was initially supposed to be merely a temporary operation, but eventually turned into a more or less proper restaurant, with dinner service commencing in September 2021. AED even snagged a nomination for James Beard's "Best New Restaurant" award in March 2022. But despite this apparent success, it was announced in mid-December that the eatery would be closing at the end of the year, and thus, I made it a point to come out for one final meal.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/20231223_195740+20231223_195738+20231223_195735+20231223_195733.jpg" width="957" height="400" border="3" alt="Angry Egret Dinette Interior"><br>
Here we see the interior, which sports a decidedly tropical theme appropriate for the concept. Note that the space was formerly home to Becky Reams and Yeekai Lim's daytime café Lately.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/20231223_200040l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/20231223_200040.jpg" width="225" height="300" border="3" alt="Angry Egret Dinette Beverage List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/20231223_200037l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/20231223_200037.jpg" width="225" height="300" border="3" alt="Angry Egret Dinette Menu"></a><br>
As for the menu, it's a pretty casual affair, with some of the same dishes served during the day. Beverage-wise, you get a handful of easy-going beers, wines, and cocktails. Corkage is $10, but was waived tonight, probably because I shared my booze with the staff (which also resulted in a 10% "Neighborhood" discount on my tab). Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/DSC04188.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Esquite"><br>
<strong>Esquite [$9.00]</strong> | Queso cotija, negra aioli, togarashi, scallion, lime<br>
The esquites was one of the better versions I've tried. The sweetness of the corn was on point, and I really enjoyed how that played with the scallions and the salty, lactic weight of the cheese. If that wasn't enough, the lime did a nice job perking things up, and I liked the undercurrent of heat from the togarashi to boot.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/DSC04214.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Swordfish Torta"><br>
<strong>Swordfish Torta [$18.00]</strong> | Panko fried swordfish, chipotle aioli, cabbage, pico de gallo<br>
I've never had swordfish in torta form before, but it worked out tonight. The fish itself showed off a crisp, panko-coated crust, along with subtly saline-n-sweet flavors. I also appreciated the brightness imparted by the cabbage and salsa, as well as the soft bread, while that spicy aioli tied it all together.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/DSC04186.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="2009 HORAL's Oude Geuze Mega Blend"><br>
To drink, I brought along a bottle that I'd been cellaring for a while, the <strong>2009 HORAL's Oude Geuze Mega Blend</strong>. This was a union of young and old lambic from eight <a href="http://www.horal.be" target="_blank">HORAL</a> (Hoge Raad voor Ambachtelijke Lambiekbieren) members (3 Fonteinen, Boon, De Cam, De Troch, Hanssens, Lindemans, Oud Beersel, Timmermans), first created to celebrate the 7th biannual <a href="http://www.toerdegeuze.be" target="_blank">Toer de Geuze</a> festival in 2009 (thus making this a "batch one" release). The ale showcased a wonderful nose filled with juicy apricots and peaches, supported by layers of florals and earth. Taste-wise, the gueuze displayed a soft, sophisticated sourness undergirded by more stone fruits, a touch of honey, and hints of barnyard. The beer was drinking beautifully tonight, and still has plenty of life left in it--I wish I had another bottle!
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/DSC04196.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Ceviche Tostada"><br>
<strong>Ceviche Tostada [$16.00 + $5.00]</strong> | Yellow tail, yuzu vinaigrette, tomatoes, avocado, salsa china, sesame seeds + Add Uni<br>
Yellowtail combined easily with contrasting elements of scallion, sesame, and soy, though the sea urchin didn't add all that much. Great crunch from that tortilla, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/DSC04218.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Chicken Satay Tacos"><br>
<strong>Chicken Satay Tacos [$16.00]</strong> | Curry marinated chicken, with peanut sauce, herb salad, salsa china<br>
The tacos were a surprise standout thanks to the aggressive sear and smoke on the chicken. I enjoyed the dish's assertively sweet-spicy notes as well, all while the veggies lightened things up.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/DSC04242.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="2013 Firestone Walker Velvet Merkin"><br>
Next to imbibe was another "batch 1" release, the inaugural <strong>2013 Firestone Walker Velvet Merkin</strong>, a bourbon barrel-aged oatmeal stout that just celebrated its 10th birthday. The beer smelled strongly of black licorice tinged with coffee-esque and metallic nuances. On the palate, the ale was thin but silky, its base of malty sweetness joined by plenty more licorice, as well as bourbon, cacao, and coffee.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/DSC04238.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Duck Bahn Mi"><br>
<strong>Duck Bahn Mi [$18.00]</strong> | Seared duck breast, herb salad, chipotle aioli, hoisin sauce<br>
A generous portion of duck displayed the deep, almost funky flavors I was looking for, offset by veggies, herbs, and the creeping heat of that chipotle-boosted aioli. The suppleness of the bread was once again appreciated, but I found the bird a bit tough in certain spots, making the sandwich somewhat difficult to eat cleanly.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231223-AngryEgretDinette/DSC04220.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Oxtail Frites"><br>
<strong>Oxtail Frites [$33.00]</strong> | Braised oxtail in a guajillo sauce, salsa negra aioli, served with fries<br>
Oxtails possessed the dark, sticky flavors I was expecting. They were perked up by the green onions, and also demonstrated a nice peppery finish. As for the French fries, I had no complaints. They helped moderate the heft of the beef, and also paired well with a dab of that zippy aioli.
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I'm glad that I made it out here one final time. It's a shame that AED is closing, but apparently Chef Avila has bigger plans in mind. Of course, he already debuted Ka'teen in Hollywood back in December 2021, a vibe-y spot inspired by the food of the Yucatán (which I still need to check out). However, his next venture is an upscale northern Mexican steakhouse in WeHo called MXO, so that's definitely something to be on the lookout for coming up.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-19240057788948103442023-12-20T19:30:00.000-08:002024-02-27T21:15:23.885-08:00Yess Restaurant (Los Angeles, CA)<b><i>Yess Restaurant<br>
2001 E 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021<br>
<a href="http://www.instagram.com/yess.restaurant/" target="_blank">www.instagram.com/yess.restaurant/</a> / <a href="http://www.yessaquatic.com" target="_blank">www.yessaquatic.com</a><br>
Wed 12/20/2023, 07:30p-11:15p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04178+DSC04176+DSC04174+DSC04172.jpg" width="1130" height="333" border="3" alt="Yess Restaurant Exterior">
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Of all the LA-area restaurants debuts of 2023, Yess was certainly one of the ones that I was the most curious about, so I made it a point to visit the Downtown spot before the end of the year. The place comes to us from Chef Junya Yamasaki (most known for his time running the cult-y Koya in London), in partnership with Sumiko Himura, Akiko Kaetsu, and Kazuko Kaetsu, who together form a company called Hi Hi Heel Productions. The cuisine served at Yess is described by the team as "progressive Japanese," but also focuses on wood- and charcoal-fired cookery, as well as the use of ingredients local to Southern California.
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<u><em>About the Chef</em></u>: Yamasaki Junya hails from Hyogo, in the Kansai region of Japan. He attended the University of Tsukuba, then worked in magazines and film (that's how he met future business partner Kino Kaetsu, a producer) before relocating to the United Kingdom. There, he studied photography at Goldsmiths, University of London, during which time he managed a café, and later moved to France, enrolling in a fine arts DNSEP program at ENSAPC (École Nationale Supérieure d'Arts de Paris-Cergy). In Paris, he began working at Masafumi Nomoto's udon restaurant Kunitoraya, though not as a cook.
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It was around this period when Yamasaki would meet John Devitt, a former options trader who'd left the finance field for a career in hospitality. Devitt had trained at London Italian mainstay Zafferano under Giorgio Locatelli, with plans to open his own restaurant, but after tasting Sanuki udon for the first time at Kunitoraya, decided that he wanted to focus on those noodles. To open the udon-ya, Devitt recruited Yamasaki as well as Shuko Oda, who'd had some kitchen experience Japan but spent most of her career in fashion. Oda and Yamasaki had initially met while working at Dover Street Market, a clothier in London, and after the concept behind Koya was decided on, she went to train at Kunitoraya for three months, while Yamasaki traveled to Shikoku for culinary research.
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The three were able debut Koya in Soho in April 2010 (in the former Alistair Little space at 49 Frith St), and the place soon became one of the most happening eateries in London. Besides the udon, Yamasaki began making a name for himself for his daily-changing specials, featuring British ingredients prepared in a Japanese style, and even went to <em>stage</em> at Magnus Nilsson's Fäviken Magasinet and Dan Hunter's Royal Mail down in Australia. In September 2013, the partners launched Koya Bar next door with Oda running things, while Yamasaki stayed in charge of the original restaurant. However, despite all the success, Yamasaki stepped away from the business in 2015, and Koya ended up serving its last bowl of udon at the end of May that year.
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The Chef then returned to Japan in the autumn, did some traveling, and immersed himself in Zen Buddhism and its associated temple cuisine, even staying at a monastery in the mountains for three months. Yamasaki arrived in LA around the end of 2018, and was appalled by the widespread use of imported seafood in the city. He thus set out to utilize local product in his cooking, meeting with local fishermen and even going as far as to free-dive for seafood himself. In December 2020, the Chef launched a food truck called Yess Aquatic, which he parked near his future restaurant location, and joining him were Giles Clark (sous) and Jacob Himmel (junior sous).
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Clark, for his part, comes to us from England, and studied philosophy and theology at Trinity College Dublin following a tenure at Eton College. During his time at TCD, he worked at the posh Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in Dublin, and later <em>staged</em> at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2010/04/chez-panisse-berkeley-ca.htm" target="_blank">Chez Panisse</a>, River Cottage, <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2009/05/alinea-chicago-il-2.htm" target="_blank">Alinea</a>, and <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/08/noma-copenhagen-denmark.html" target="_blank">Noma</a>. By spring 2012, he was cooking at The Ten Bells with <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/10/the-clove-club-london-united-kingdom.html" target="_blank">The Young Turks</a>, then made his way over to St John Bread and Wine. He then joined Yamasaki and company at Koya, where he served as sous chef until shortly before the spot shuttered. Afterward, he went to Japan to train at legendary kaiseki restaurant Kikunoi Honten in Kyoto, then worked for a local fishmonger, and I believe that he also studied tofu-making around this time.
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Himmel, meanwhile, is an American, and grew up in the Chicago area. He attended the International Culinary Center in New York, during which time he cooked at Italian eatery All'onda. After completing his studies in December 2015, he became an opening line cook at Momofuku Nishi, and was promoted to sous a year later. At the start of 2018, he decamped in order to <em>stage</em> at Noma, and was actually part of the opening team of Noma 2.0. Following, Himmel returned to the US and got a job at Jaguar Sun in Miami, then, at the start of 2019, went to Japan to apprentice at Terada Honke sake brewery. In June 2019, he started working for Bravo Restaurants back in Chicago, where he focused on revamping the menu at Eduardo's Enoteca, then joined Yess in 2020.
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Yess' mobile operation lasted until October 4th, 2021, but Yamasaki soon started up a series of Yess Aquatic Supper Club dinners that December, and continued to pop-up through late 2022. The brick-and-mortar restaurant, meanwhile, debuted on May 3rd this year with a relatively easy-going à la carte menu, but switched to a tasting menu format in September. Soon after, Yess began racking up the accolades, landing on the <em>New York Times</em>' list of the <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2023/dining/best-restaurants-america.html" target="_blank">50 most exciting restaurants in the US</a>. The <em>NY Times</em> quickly followed that up by naming Yess one of the "<a href="https://www.nytimes.com/article/best-restaurants-los-angeles.html" target="_blank">25 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles Right Now</a>," while <em>Esquire</em> deemed the place one of "<a href="https://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/a45847159/best-new-restaurants-in-america-2023/" target="_blank">The Best New Restaurants in America</a>."
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/20231220_193528+20231220_193530+20231220_193531+20231220_193533+20231220_193534.jpg" width="1130" height="280" border="3" alt="Yess Restaurant Interior"><br>
Yess resides in a 1924 building in the Arts District that once housed a Bank of America branch before being left vacant for decades. I find it to be a peculiar space, especially with those huge glass block windows and that super lengthy cypress wood kitchen counter. An interesting point is that the chairs are reportedly made from leftovers of the wood used to reconstruct the Ise Jingū shrine back in 2013.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04179l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04179.jpg" width="392" height="300" border="3" alt="Yess Restaurant Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04180l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04180.jpg" width="392" height="300" border="3" alt="Yess Restaurant Sake & Wine List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04181l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04181.jpg" width="194" height="300" border="3" alt="Yess Restaurant Beverage List"></a><br>
The menu here is a six-course prix fixe at $110 a head, with your choice of main dish as well as optional supplements, while a more casual à la carte menu is served on Sundays. Beverage-wise, you get a tight selection of sakes and natural-leaning wines, along with a couple shochus, a couple cocktails, and a single beer, all curated by Yukiyasu Kaneko (P. Franco, <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/08/noma-copenhagen-denmark.html" target="_blank">Noma</a>). Corkage is $50 a bottle. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04080.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Fried Honeynut Squash, Parsnip, Sunchoke, and Beets"><br>
My meal commenced with a serving of fried winter vegetables (honeynut squash, parsnips, sunchokes, beets), which served as an exploration of the disparate types of both crunchiness and salty-sweet ratios.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04090.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Water Kimchi"><br>
<strong>1: Water Kimchi</strong> | with Market Vegetables and Fruits<br>
What appeared to be a riff on <em>dongchimi</em> combined the usual <em>baechu</em> (or <em>hakusai</em>, perhaps more appropriately) with fermented daikon, apple, serrano pepper, and yuzu zest. I appreciated the bitter, slightly peppery liquid, and the array of textures was also quite fetching, while the apple added an unexpected sweetness to the fray. Overall, a refreshing and palate-perking course.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04094.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="California Sweet Bream Sashimi"><br>
<strong>2: California Sweet Bream Sashimi</strong> | with Passion Fruit and Makrut Lime Ponzu<br>
<em>Amadai</em> showed off a wonderful chew, its sweetness coming together seamlessly with that extra-citrusy ponzu, a touch of heat, and the zippiness of green onion.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04078.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="22 'Festejar' Rose, Patrick Bouju, Auvergne"><br>
I opted for something easy-drinking in the form of the Gamay d'Auvergne-based <strong>22 "Festejar" Rose, Patrick Bouju, Auvergne [$85]</strong>. The pét-nat smelled of tart, juicy red fruits, but with an earthy backing, while the palate demonstrated similar notes, and actually went in a somewhat beer-like direction, reminding me of a fruited saison. An utterly quaffable wine that stood up admirably to the food tonight.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04102.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Lobster Tartar"><br>
<strong>Supplement: Lobster Tartar [$60.00]</strong> | Local Spiny Lobster Tartar with fresh Wasabi and Soy pickled Shiso Buds<br>
<em>Ise ebi</em> arrived sticky and supple, with a delicately sweet brine that combined well with the freshness of those shiso leaves, and also opened up with a squirt of citrus. However, the fun part was pairing the tartare with its trio of condiments. The wasabi had that classic heat, which of course made sense, though far more interesting were the soy-pickled shiso buds, which were simultaneously savory yet floral. My favorite accoutrement, however, was the habanero-yuzu, which possessed this wonderfully fruity heat. I also tried all three together, and the combo actually worked somehow, and didn't manage to overwhelm the lobster.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04122.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Ling Cod Fritter"><br>
<strong>3: Ling Cod Fritter</strong> | with Yuzu "An" Sauce<br>
Lingcod fritters paired flaky, juicy, mild-tasting insides with crisp-fried, slightly sweet exteriors that actually recalled <em>youtiao</em>. Helping to tie the dish together, meanwhile, was that thick, piquant sauce, which I'm assuming was derived from <em>ankake</em>.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04126.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Lamb and Sour Cabbage Rolls"><br>
<strong>Supplement: Lamb and Sour Cabbage Rolls [$16.00]</strong> | Lightly pickled Cabbage Rolls stuffed with minced Shoulder of Windrose Farm Lamb and braised in Dashi<br>
Lamb took on the familiar, classic, savory flavors of dashi, and effectively played off of the cabbage's tangy, vegetal nature. I also detected a peppery edge in the dish, and somehow, I tasted raisin on the finish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04132.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Porcini & Soy Egg Yolk"><br>
<strong>Supplement: Porcini & Soy Egg Yolk [$28.00]</strong> | Grilled California Porcini and Soy cured Egg Yolk<br>
Cuts of porcini exhibited a welcomed contrast in textures, with some bits having a meaty, snappy consistency, while others were soft and nearly eggplant-like. Taste-wise, their roasty, woodsy qualities played well with the luscious, umami-laden character of that yolk, making for an appropriately autumnal dish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04138.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Monk's 'Chirashi-Sushi'"><br>
<strong>4: Monk's "Chirashi-Sushi"</strong><br>
Next up was the latest version of a seasonally-changing course, one comprising sweet beans, seaweed, sunchoke, persimmon, chrysanthemum flowers, and walnuts roasted in their shells. The dish represented a hodgepodge of tastes and textures, but one that came together in a clever manner. The umami notes from the seaweed were key, and really set the stage for a bevy of sweet, nutty, and pickle-y flavors. I was a fan of the just-sticky-enough texture on the rice, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04144.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="White Turnip 'Surinagashi' Soup"><br>
<strong>5: White Turnip "Surinagashi" Soup</strong><br>
Along with the rice above came a hot, heartwarming soup loaded with delectably bitter, ginger-y notes. I wouldn't have minded a bigger bowl of the stuff.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04148.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Halibut Schnitzel and Warm Rouille Sauce"><br>
<strong>6: Halibut Schnitzel and Warm Rouille Sauce</strong> | Shinkei-jime Halibut Cutlet with steamed Turnip and Scallion, served with grilled Sweet Potato and Habanero Rouille<br>
Given my penchant for schnitzel of all sorts, this was an obvious choice for my main course. The crux here was the interplay between the fruity, lingering heat of the habanero and the zesty scallions, which was just fantastic. It was a pretty intense back-and-forth, yet managed not to overwhelm the comparatively delicate taste of the fish, and I liked how the turnips lightened things up.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231220-YessRestaurant/DSC04156.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Cacao, Raisins and Sweet Potato"><br>
<strong>Supplement: Cacao, Raisins and Sweet Potato [$20.00]</strong> | Comal roasted Japanese Sweet Potato, Cacao Beans and Raisins<br>
Dessert was pretty unconventional, and might just be the most contemplative I've had all year. For me, the way to approach this was to enjoy the sweet smokiness of the <em>yaki-imo</em>, then juxtapose that with the more overt sweetness of the raisins, and the far more aggressively smoky, roasty, nutty aspects of the cacao.
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The food at Yess is fundamentally Japanese at its core if we're talking technique and ethos, but the cuisine has been re-interpreted through the lens of seasonal Californian ingredients. That's not the whole story here, though. Yamasaki's cooking has a direct, minimalistic, almost monastic feel to it, and comes across as quite "cheffy," so to speak. It's an approach that appealed to me, but at the same time, I could very easily imagine it as being off-putting to many others. This seems like a polarizing sort of place, and in fact, might be the most polarizing restaurant debut since <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2022/07/meteora-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Meteora</a>. And if that wasn't enough, the leisurely service and general vibe made for a rather unique dining experience. I'm not sure how to describe it, but the words that come to mind are cinematic, beguiling, and even a bit surreal at times. Yess isn't for everybody.
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As for the team's next steps, they're still planning on launching the more casual Yess Cafe in the same building once things stabilize. Further objectives consist of a members-only space called <a href="http://www.goodbrown.la" target="_blank">Good Brown</a>, as well as another, unnamed project that will include a bakery and coffee roaster. Thus, Yamasaki and his crew have some ambitious plans, so I hope that Angelenos are receptive to them.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-53018516351762453882023-12-16T17:30:00.000-08:002024-02-22T20:47:32.506-08:00Sushi Sonagi (Gardena, CA)<b><i>Sushi Sonagi<br>
1425 Artesia Blvd, Gardena, CA 90248<br>
<a href="http://www.instagram.com/sushi.sonagi/" target="_blank">www.instagram.com/sushi.sonagi/</a><br>
Sat 12/16/2023, 05:30p-07:40p</i></b><br>
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The last time I reported on Daniel Son was back in September last year, when I checked out <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2022/09/katsu-sando-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Katsu Sando</a> in Chinatown. His sandwich shop grew to a second location in San Gabriel in March, but I was far more curious about his planned sushi spot, meant to expand on the omakase dinners he was serving back in the day over at Kura in WeHo, which shuttered in November 2019. My questions were answered earlier this year, when it was announced that Son would be opening Sushi Sonagi in the former strip mall home of the longstanding Kanpachi in Gardena. The restaurant ended up debuting at the start of July serving the Chef's unique style of Korean-inflected sushi omakase. And if you're wondering about the name, it's a reference to the Korean term 소나기, which denotes a period of heavy rain that stops suddenly.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/20231217_122227l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/20231217_122227.jpg" width="197" height="300" border="3" alt="Sushi Sonagi Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/20231216_173231l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/20231216_173231.jpg" width="221" height="300" border="3" alt="Sushi Sonagi Sake List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/20231216_173237l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/20231216_173237.jpg" width="221" height="300" border="3" alt="Sushi Sonagi Sake & Beverage List"></a><br>
Sonagi's omakase is priced at $200 per person (up from $175 when the place first opened), with a $100 deposit required via Tock, and diners receive a printed copy of the menu, which is something that I wish more sushi restaurants would implement. Beverage-wise, there's a respectable selection of sake, but not much else, so you may want to make use of the corkage option, which is $45 a pop. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/20231216_173803+20231216_173802+20231216_173800+20231216_173758+20231216_173756+20231216_173754.jpg" width="740" height="400" border="3" alt="Sushi Sonagi Bar"><br>
Pictured above is the view from my position at the sushi counter's rightmost seat; there is no table seating here. Do also note that the lower portion of the bar is actually a holdover from the Kanpachi days, as are all those wooden slats.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03858.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sushi Sonagi Place Setting"><br>
Here we see the place setting, replete with a warm <em>oshibori</em>.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03874.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Chawanmushi, Ikura Shoyuzuke, SB Uni, Gamtae (Lidded)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03878.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Chawanmushi, Ikura Shoyuzuke, SB Uni, Gamtae"><br>
<strong>1: Chawanmushi, Ikura Shoyuzuke, SB Uni, Gamtae</strong><br>
Son started us off with a substantial egg custard, paired with an even more substantial tongue of Santa Barbara sea urchin as well as the smoky savor of soy-marinated salmon roe. My favorite ingredient here, though, was that <em>gamtae</em>, with its wonderfully grassy, earthy, bitter notes that accented the egg beautifully. I'd actually like to see more chefs incorporate the seaweed into their chawanmushis.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03860.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="2006 Henri Goutorbe Champagne Grand Cru Special Club"><br>
One of my fellow diners graciously shared a pour of his <strong>2006 Henri Goutorbe Champagne Grand Cru Special Club</strong> with us. The wine showed off a rich, concentrated nose filled with stone fruits and toast, while the palate demonstrated loads of depth, with a bevy of nutty, caramel-like notes joined by orchard fruits and minerals.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03882.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Hokkaido Ankimo Tart, Astrea Kaluga Caviar"><br>
<strong>2: Hokkaido Ankimo Tart, Astrea Kaluga Caviar</strong><br>
A decidedly untraditional presentation of sake-poached ankimo effectively paired the monkfish liver's creamy, refined brine with the nutty salinity of caviar and a dusting of shiso blossom and chrysanthemum, all while the tart shell offered up contrast in both taste and texture.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03890.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Wagyu Yukhoe Toast, Korean Pear, Kinome"><br>
<strong>3: Wagyu Yukhoe Toast, Korean Pear, Kinome</strong><br>
Son's take on beef tartare was a winner. I loved the nuttiness imparted by the sesame oil and how that enveloped the meat in such a familiar, satisfying manner. At the same time, the <em>bae</em> gave the bite a juicy sweetness, while the bread served as a moderating force.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03898.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sushi Geta + Gari"><br>
Here we see the somewhat unconventional sushi plate, as well as a portion of the Chef's excellent homemade ginger, which I found milder than most, with a great texture.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03900.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Finger Napkin"><br>
Given that I typically eat sushi sans chopsticks, the arrival of a finger napkin was a welcomed nicety.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03868.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="2007 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses"><br>
We brought three bottles tonight, and the first was the <strong>2007 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses</strong>. Initial aromas here highlighted sour fruits alongside barnyard and caramel. On the palate, I found the wine uncommonly silky, with loads of yellow fruit and a marked grassiness. With more time, the nose actually became more muted, and slightly saline, while taste-wise, I got a lot more saline, but with plenty of mature citrus and hints of pepper.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03902.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Onagadai / Long-Tailed Snapper – Kagoshima"><br>
<strong>4: Onagadai / Long-Tailed Snapper – Kagoshima</strong><br>
I believe that this was my first time having <em>onaga</em> sushi, and hopefully it's not my last. The snapper was super soft to the bite, and demonstrated a sweetness that linked up superbly with the herby blossoms and the lingering burn of wasabi.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03910.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Buri / Wild Yellowtail – Toyama"><br>
<strong>5: Buri / Wild Yellowtail – Toyama</strong><br>
Yellowtail arrived deeply savory, with a great wasabi-fueled heat, while the rice was particularly nutty, and did a great job mixing things up texturally as well.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03920.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Shima Aji / Striped Jack – Kagoshima"><br>
<strong>6: Shima Aji / Striped Jack – Kagoshima</strong><br>
The striped jack had this wonderfully "crunchy" consistency, while its considerable umami notes once again juxtaposed swimmingly with Son's seemingly extra flavorful <em>shari</em>.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03938.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sawara / King Mackerel – Mie"><br>
<strong>7: Sawara / King Mackerel – Mie</strong><br>
The Spanish mackerel showcased a fantastic smoke that worked hand-in-hand with the fish's soft, fatty flesh, and I loved how the finish was redolent of both wasabi heat and umami.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03942.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sumagatsuo / Striped Skipjack Tuna – Kagoshima"><br>
<strong>8: Sumagatsuo / Striped Skipjack Tuna – Kagoshima</strong><br>
Not surprisingly, soy-marinated skipjack ate super savory, but its intensity was evened out by the rice, which was much milder in this bite, so I'm assuming that the Chef utilizes a couple different varieties depending on the <em>neta</em>.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03928.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="2020 Kokuryu 'Nizaemon' Junmai Daiginjo"><br>
Our second bottle was the <strong>2020 Kokuryu "Nizaemon" Junmai Daiginjo (黒龍 ⼆左衛⾨)</strong>, a 35% <em>seimai-buai</em>, Yamada Nishiki-based sake. The bouquet here was sugary and inviting, giving up loads of bubblegum and bananas, perked up by a tinge of peppery spice. Taking a sip, I found the <em>nihonshu</em> thick and viscous, its sweet, ricey flavors supported by a rotating cast of tropical fruits.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03948.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Kohada / Gizzard Shad – Kumamoto"><br>
<strong>9: Kohada / Gizzard Shad – Kumamoto</strong><br>
Gizzard shad had that oceany taste you expect, but supported by an underlying fruitiness. The fish's strong flavors were balanced out by the very neutral rice utilized, as well as the sting of wasabi.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03954.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mehikari Tempura / Twinkly Eyes – Shizuoka"><br>
<strong>10: Mehikari Tempura / Twinkly Eyes – Shizuoka</strong><br>
Fried greeneye showcased a delectable brininess and a spot-on texture to boot, and matched flawlessly with that flaked salt. Given his apparent facility with tempura, I suggested to the Chef that he should open a tempura-ya next!
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03960.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Akagai / Ark Shell – Aomori"><br>
<strong>11: Akagai / Ark Shell – Aomori</strong><br>
Ark clam is a relatively rare sight at sushi-ya around Southern California, so I was happy to see it on the menu tonight. I loved its snappy, satisfying consistency, and its unabashedly oceany flavors matched swimmingly with the wasabi and a bit of mintiness, while the assertively-seasoned rice also served as a welcomed counterpoint.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03976.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Ganjang Gejang Maki / Soy Cured Crab Roll – Korea"><br>
<strong>12: Ganjang Gejang Maki / Soy Cured Crab Roll – Korea</strong><br>
Two-week-fermented <em>gejang</em> was combined with Santa Barbara uni, shiso, and perilla oil, making for a creamy, sweet, saline mélange of flavors offset by the refreshing nature of shiso. My quibble here was that I wanted the seaweed to be crisper.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03980.jpg" width="320" height="480" border="3" alt="Chef Daniel Son with Uni"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03984.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Uni / Sea Urchin – Hokkaido"><br>
<strong>13: Uni / Sea Urchin – Hokkaido</strong><br>
Hokkaido uni ate cool and creamy and utterly classic, with a mineral-driven quality that meshed seamlessly with the seaweed.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03968.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="2020 Kokuryu 'Hachijyuhachigo' Daiginjo"><br>
Our third and final bottle was the <strong>2020 Kokuryu "Hachijyuhachigo" Daiginjo (黒龍 ⼋⼗⼋号)</strong>, which also boasted the use of Yamada Nishiki and a 35% rice polishing ratio. Again, the sake smelled quite distinctly of fresh bananas, but with traces of herbs and spices. It was super smooth over the tongue, with its ricey, astringent, savory nuances joined by more spices as well as florals.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03988.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Anago / Sea Eel – Nagasaki"><br>
<strong>14: Anago / Sea Eel – Nagasaki</strong><br>
Conger eel was melt-in-your-mouth tender, and just might've been the softest example I've ever had. It was also sweeter than usual, which worked with the fish's palpable smokiness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03992.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Dolsot Sekogani / Female Snow Crab – Fukui"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC03993.jpg" width="320" height="480" border="3" alt="Chef Daniel Son Mixing Rice"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC04002.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Dolsot Sekogani / Female Snow Crab – Fukui (In Bowl)"><br>
<strong>15: Dolsot Sekogani / Female Snow Crab – Fukui</strong><br>
The <em>seikogani</em>, served with its roe and <em>kanimiso</em>, was definitely a favorite, and easily a contender for the best thing I've eaten all year. I just got loads of concentration, depth, brine, umami, and sheer crab-y goodness, and reveled in all that nutty, crispy, toasty <em>nurungji</em>. Everything just came together flawlessly.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC04004.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Dungeness Crab Soup, Shingiku, Yuzu – Oregon (Lidded)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC04006.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Dungeness Crab Soup, Shingiku, Yuzu – Oregon"><br>
<strong>16: Dungeness Crab Soup, Shingiku, Yuzu – Oregon</strong><br>
Cabbage-wrapped Dungeness displayed some wonderfully homey, yet delicate flavors, boosted by a mushroom dashi, while the <em>shungiku</em> brightened things up.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC04012.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Miso Butter Atsuyaki Tamago / Miso Butter Omelet"><br>
<strong>17: Miso Butter Atsuyaki Tamago / Miso Butter Omelet</strong><br>
Son's tamagoyaki incorporates miso, butter, scallop, and shrimp, and was quite a bit more assertive (and tastier) than most. Think sweet and saline, and quite "juicy."
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC04016.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Yuzu Panna Cotta, Mandarin Ice – Torrance"><br>
<strong>18: Yuzu Panna Cotta, Mandarin Ice – Torrance</strong><br>
A zippy citrus granita was set against yuzu pudding, making for a palate-cleansing sort of dessert that left me refreshed.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC04026.jpg" width="480" height="480" border="3" alt="Sushi Sonagi Thank You Card (In Envelope)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC04024.jpg" width="627" height="480" border="3" alt="Sushi Sonagi Thank You Card"><br>
We were given a thank you card at the end of the meal, which was a nice detail. If you're curious about Janet and Annie, they're the Chef's wife and sister, respectively, who help with running the restaurant.
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Sushi Sonagi made a strong case for itself tonight, and in fact, I'd deem it one of my top meals in LA this year. Son clearly respects Japanese tradition, but at the same time, he's clearly not bound by it. I really enjoyed the thoughtful Korean touches that he incorporated into the meal, and also appreciated the Chef's affability and the family-run nature of the restaurant. It all came together for an omakase experience unlike any other in the region, and I have to conclude that Sonagi is a worthy addition to Los Angeles' sushi pantheon.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC04034+DSC04036+DSC04038+DSC04040.jpg" width="1130" height="297" border="3" alt="Volcano Burgers"><br>
We weren't quite stuffed after dinner, so for some final bites, we made our way to Volcano Burgers in Los Alamitos, an old haunt of mine from my teenage years.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231216-SushiSonagi/DSC04044.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Chili Cheese Fries + Onions"><br>
<strong>Chili Cheese Fries + Onions [$7.99]</strong><br>
The dish to get is the chili fries, which I first tried in 1995 and which I still order every single time I come here. The fries they use are the perfect type for this application, and I can't fault the chili either, while the zestiness of those onions is absolutely crucial, really brightening things up. I have yet to find a better chilli fries.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-48663055591809060612023-12-15T19:00:00.000-08:002024-02-18T23:56:43.757-08:00Bello Chef's Table (Newport Beach, CA)<b><i>Bello Chef's Table<br>
1200 Bison Ave, Newport Beach, CA 92660<br>
949-520-7191<br>
<a href="http://www.bellochefstable.com" target="_blank">www.bellochefstable.com</a> / <a href="http://www.instagram.com/bellochefstable/" target="_blank">www.instagram.com/bellochefstable/</a><br>
Fri 12/15/2023, 07:00p-09:50p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03852+DSC03850+DSC03854.jpg" width="1130" height="389" border="3" alt="Bello by Sandro Nardone">
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Bello Chef's Table is a spot that'd been at the top of my OC "to-eat" list for a while now. It's basically a kitchen counter tasting menu sort of concept, one that commenced in spring 2021 inside Bello by Sandro Nardone, a popular Italian restaurant that itself opened in November 2019. Regular readers may recall that I was supposed to dine here back in September, but due to some problems with Tock, the tickets that my party purchased were issued in error, and we were thus forced to dine at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/09/camphor-los-angeles-ca-2.html" target="_blank">Camphor</a> that evening instead. We vowed to make it back here eventually, and finally made good on that promise recently.
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<u><em>About the Chefs</em></u>: The story begins with Sandro Graziano Nardone, a native of Italy who was born in Atina, a town in Lazio's Frosinone province. He got interested in food through his family, who were talented home cooks (his mother Giovanna in particular) and also in the restaurant business. He later attended culinary school at Istituto Alberghiero di Cassino and worked at a number of places around Italy, including Al Mulino. Nardone eventually relocated to the US, and in October 2012, opened Angelina's Pizzeria in Dana Point, which was generally well received.
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However, the place soon encountered financial difficulties, and in order to save the restaurant, Nardone secured a loan from a customer by the name of Philip Fusco in late 2013. Fusco ended up purchasing half the business the following May, and he and his wife Shokoufeh "Sho" Amiri began getting involved in operations. The three of them then decided to launch Angelina's Pizzeria Napoletana in Irvine, which debuted in April 2016. Disputes between the partners soon increased to the point that Nardone was driven to leave his post as Executive Chef that September; he then relinquished his remaining stake in the business to Fusco. The original Angelina's ended up shuttering in early 2019, while the Irvine location remains open; the brand also expanded to Laguna Niguel in November 2021 with Bottega Angelina.
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With the Angelina's chapter of his life closed, Nardone quickly started work on Bello, and his new restaurant would grand-open on November 18th, 2019 in the old Pita Jungle space. The place proved to be quite popular, and in late February 2021, Chef de Cuisine Zach Scherer was allowed the opportunity to institute Chef's Table as a more creative offering at Bello. You might remember that I first encountered Scherer way back in 2012, when he was still CdC at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2012/07/playground-santa-ana-ca.html" target="_blank">Playground</a> in Santa Ana. Following his tenure there, he made his way to several OC spots (<a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2010/12/haven-gastropub-orange-ca.html" target="_blank">Haven</a>, Balboa Bay Club, Big Canyon Country Club, The Country Club/Lounge Group) before landing here in September 2020. However, Scherer announced his departure from Bello in July, and was quickly replaced by his sous chef, Drew Adams.
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Born in April 1990, Andrew Adams' interest in cooking was sparked at a young age by food television, and throughout his culinary career, he's actually worked at over 40 restaurants, mostly in Orange County. By 2015, he was at Outpost Kitchen in Costa Mesa, though he would leave the South Coast Plaza-adjacent spot by the end of summer 2016. Following, he cooked at Laguna Beach's Three Seventy Common, then joined Scherer at The Country Club in Costa Mesa in December 2017. In July 2019, he helped open Helmsman Ale House in Newport Beach (another Lounge Group property), where he stayed until moving over to Bello in March 2021 as sous, shortly after Chef's Table started.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/20231215_192038+20231215_192035+20231215_192033+20231215_192032.jpg" width="1130" height="350" border="3" alt="Bello Chef's Table"><br>
Shown above is the view from my seat at the far-right end of the six-seater counter. As for pricing, Bello Chef's Table commands $275, plus 20% service, 7.75% tax, and a $5 Tock fee, and this includes a wine pairing. If you'd like to bring some supplemental wine, as we did, corkage is $30 a bottle (though it was waived tonight on account of the aforementioned difficulties we encountered).
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03786.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Oyster, celeriac, apple, vanilla"><br>
<strong>1: Oyster, celeriac, apple, vanilla</strong><br>
Kicking things off was a lone Kumamoto, which was lightly steamed, giving it a slightly firm, satisfying, clam-like consistency. The oyster was set atop a purée of celeriac and parsnip, and joined by roasted celery root, Pink Lady apple marinated in Meyer lemon and toasted vanilla bean, Kaluga hybrid caviar, and more toasted vanilla bean. The amalgam of vanilla, lemon, and apple coalesced surprisingly cleverly with the bite's saline notes, and curiously, I was even reminded of Danish butter cookies at points. A really neat start that did a great job setting the tone for the rest of the meal.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03792.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Hamachi, satsuma, horseradish"><br>
<strong>2: Hamachi, satsuma, horseradish</strong><br>
Yellowtail was paired with satsuma juice fermented with persimmon, then crowned with shaved daikon, freshly-grated horseradish, and a sprinkle of lime zest. This was another strong effort, and I thoroughly enjoyed how the slightly sour-funkiness present married with the brine and fattiness of the fish. Really nice.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03798.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Uni, puntarelle, nori, wasabi"><br>
<strong>3: Uni, puntarelle, nori, wasabi</strong><br>
This ostensibly Caesar salad-inspired course just might've been my favorite of the night. I loved the interplay between the sweet, creamy nature of Santa Barbara sea urchin and the unabashedly bitter, crunchy qualities of the olive oil-dressed puntarelle. And if that wasn't enough, a dusting of anchovy, nori powder, and dehydrated wasabi imparted a briny, savory character that really completed the equation. Very cool.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03800.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Scallop, macadamia, poblano"><br>
<strong>4: Scallop, macadamia, poblano</strong><br>
Hefty cuts of Hokkaido scallop demonstrated a palpable sweetness and salinity. However, the crux here was that duet of poblano-infused housemade macadamia milk and an oil incorporating toasted coconut, toasted pumpkin seed, and shiso. Taken together, there was this fantastic nuttiness and creeping heat that matched up wonderfully with the scallop, making for a really smart presentation of the bivalve.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03784.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="1978 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn"><br>
Tonight's dinner seemed like a good excuse to open up a bottle of <strong>1978 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn</strong>. Initially, the nose was filled with spiced plums and <em>sauvage</em>, while flavors were all about red, cherried fruit and cacao. With a bit more time, aromas became spicier, more herbaceous, but still with a dark fruit backing; the palate was then silky smooth, with a distinct funkiness and some <em>animale</em>. With even more time, I began smelling <em>suanmei</em> and tasting a softer presentation of spices. Toward the end of the evening, I got aromas of baking spice, while taste-wise, that soft, funky fruit reappeared. The wine was pretty clearly over the hill (I suspect that the cork was compromised), making this more of an interesting than outright pleasurable drinking experience.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03810.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Chanterelle, Aleppo, roe"><br>
<strong>5: Chanterelle, Aleppo, roe</strong><br>
BBQ chanterelles were roasted and tossed in rendered, lightly smoked dry-aged beef fat, giving the mushrooms a woodsy, smoky spice that combined seamlessly with the heat of an Aleppo pepper-enriched buttermilk foam and smoked trout roe. Torpedo onions, meanwhile, imparted a zingy accent that really perked up the dish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03818.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Foie, persimmon, ponzu, sage"><br>
<strong>6: Foie, persimmon, ponzu, sage</strong><br>
I feel like you don't encounter foie gras very often these days, so I was happy to see it on the menu. The liver was on point texturally, and I loved how its richness meshed so effortlessly with the dish's smokiness. Further facets were provided by a Valencia black truffle ponzu, fermented persimmon, and fried sage, all of which helped even out the strong flavors at play.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03822.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Black cod, curry, currant"><br>
<strong>7: Black cod, curry, currant</strong><br>
Black cod is apparently one of the Chef's favorite fishes, and he did it justice tonight. The sablefish had that flaky, buttery consistency I was looking for, and worked great with the cozy, familiar flavors of a Thumbelina carrot-boosted curry, as well as a splash of burnt onion oil
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03826.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Black truffle tagliolini"><br>
<strong>8: Black truffle tagliolini</strong><br>
This hand-made pasta certainly met the mark in terms of texture, and made a whole lotta sense with the one-two punch of both black truffle butter and shaved black truffles. Straightforward, but oh-so satisfying.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03832.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Pork belly, cone head cabbage, rapini"><br>
<strong>9: Pork belly, cone head cabbage, rapini</strong><br>
A salty, fatty cut of pork belly was paired with charred Weiser Farms conehead cabbage, and even more crucially, a zippy sauce of rapini, olive oil, and anchovy. Yum.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03838.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Dry-aged NY, chestnut, beet"><br>
<strong>10: Dry-aged NY, chestnut, beet</strong><br>
In our final savory course, dry-aged NY strip was joined by a roasted chestnut sauce and a beet-pepper hot sauce. The steak itself was spot-on, but the key here was how effectively the meat paired with the dish's delectably nutty heat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03840.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Special Cocktail"><br>
At this point, we were provided an unnamed cocktail that incorporated fig leaf syrup, lemon, Lillet Blanc, and grapefruit syrup, as well as other ingredients that I've forgotten. The drink was decidedly on the refreshing side, actually reminding us of a boozy version of Squirt.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03842.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Vanilla, Negroni"><br>
<strong>11: Vanilla, Negroni</strong><br>
Serving as a bit of a pre-dessert was a refreshing duo of housemade vanilla bean gelato and blood orange negroni granita.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03846.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Chocolate, maple, sesame, caviar"><br>
<strong>12: Chocolate, maple, sesame, caviar</strong><br>
For dessert proper, a milk chocolate crémeux worked surprisingly well with the brine of Kaluga caviar, but my favorite thing here was probably that delightful nuttiness imparted by the sesame.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231215-BelloChefsTable/DSC03848.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="La Diavola"><br>
<strong>La Diavola</strong> | tomato sauce, di stefano mozzarella, spicy salame<br>
Given that we weren't quite sated by the meal's conclusion, we were given an extra pizza to fill us up. It was pretty damn tasty, especially that spicy sausage, and certainly hit the spot.
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I really wish that I'd made it out to Bello Chef's Table earlier, since tonight's meal was one of the strongest I've had in Southern California all year. Adams' vision for Italian cuisine is refreshingly modern, bold, and beguiling, and the Chef clearly excels at combining classical ingredients in creative ways. In fact, I'd posit that this place may very well represent the best meal one can have in Orange County at the moment, and probably deserves more attention than it gets.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-5746628147307916572023-12-13T21:00:00.000-08:002024-02-14T07:41:12.458-08:00Yangban (Los Angeles, CA)<b><i>Yangban Restaurant<br>
712 S Santa Fe Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90021<br>
213-866-1987<br>
<a href="http://www.yangbanla.com" target="_blank">www.yangbanla.com</a><br>
Wed 12/13/2023, 09:00p-11:15p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231222_195129+20231222_195127+20231222_195125+20231222_195123+20231222_195121.jpg" width="779" height="400" border="3" alt="Yangban Exterior">
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As you probably already know, Yangban Society debuted <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2022/01/yangban-society-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">at the start of 2022</a> as a sort of Korean-American deli-slash-restaurant-slash-superette from the wife-and-husband team of Katianna Hong and John Hong. The concept was a new one for LA, and I think that people had somewhat of a hard time understanding it, and thus, the Arts District eatery has been in a near-constant state of adaptation ever since its opening.
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The first major change came on March 24th last year, when the Chefs launched a "Yangban-style" prix fixe dinner option at $50 a head. Then, on July 8th, the restaurant rolled out a new menu and began focusing on dinner service. Those adjustments proved effective, and Yangban Society was soon deemed both one of "<a href="https://www.bonappetit.com/story/10-best-new-restaurants-america-2022#yangban" target="_blank">The 10 Best New Restaurants of 2022</a>" by <em>Bon Appétit</em>, and one of <em>Esquire</em>'s "<a href="https://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/a41788671/best-new-restaurants-in-america-2022/" target="_blank">Best New Restaurants in America</a>" (the Hongs were also named "Chefs of the Year" by the publication). Meanwhile, at the start of 2023, James Beard rated the spot a "Best New Restaurant" semifinalist.
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By Coachella this year, Yangban Society had updated its name to merely Yangban, and I believe that it was also around this time when the deli counter was removed. Finally, to complete the metamorphosis, the partners closed the restaurant on August 1st for a remodel, and reopened Yangban 2.0 on September 15th with a completely new decor and a revamped menu. The <em>NY Times</em> quickly judged Yangban among "<a href="https://www.nytimes.com/article/best-restaurants-los-angeles.html" target="_blank">The 25 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles</a>," while the <em>LA Times</em> placed Yangban at the #18 spot on their annual "<a href="https://www.latimes.com/food/list/101-best-los-angeles-restaurants-ranked-2023" target="_blank">101 Best Restaurants in LA</a>" ranking (up from #49 in 2022).
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_211207+20231213_211210+20231213_211212.jpg" width="1130" height="335" border="3" alt="Yangban Interior"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_211141+20231213_211142+20231213_211144+20231213_211145.jpg" width="1130" height="335" border="3" alt="Yangban Dining Room"><br>
Inside, Yangban was re-envisioned by local firm <a href="http://www.outsiderinterior.com" target="_blank">Outsider Interior Design</a>, which, conveniently, is located less than 200 feet away from the restaurant. As you can see, it's a much darker, moodier, more serious space now, featuring pieces from artists such as Brian Zamora/Tomas Osinski (<em>Seoraksan</em> metal mesh panels), Sammy Seung-min Lee (<em>A Very Proper Table Setting</em> rendered in <em>hanji</em> paper), Jisun Kim (<em>Blooming</em> series lamps), and Dave Young Kim (<em>The Elements as Equalizer</em> painted on the upper-level walls).
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210739l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210739.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Yangban Menu: Snacks"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210755l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210755.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Yangban Menu: Mains"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210800l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210800.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Yangban Menu: Banchan"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210811l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210811.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Yangban Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210815l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210815.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Yangban Beer List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210821l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210821.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Yangban Wine List: Sparkling, Rose, White"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210826l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210826.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Yangban Wine List: Skin Contact, Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210831l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/20231213_210831.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Yangban Dessert Menu"></a><br>
And here we see Yangban's new menu, which is more upscale, and more obviously Korean in many cases, though some old favorites still remain. Naturally, the cocktail list and wine list have been tweaked accordingly as well. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03696.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Hot Smoked Trout Schmear"><br>
<strong>Hot Smoked Trout Schmear [$8.00]</strong> | griddled potato bread, dill, chive, fresh horseradish<br>
The meal kicked off with a series of snacks, the first being this reworked version of a dish from the deli days. The marriage of that smoky fish with a three-way of dill/chive/horseradish was on point, and I liked how that thick, hearty bread grounded the bite.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03692.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Blue Crab Tostada"><br>
<strong>Blue Crab Tostada [$9.00]</strong> | gochujang, perilla, red leaf lettuce, crème fraiche, masienda tortilla<br>
The tostada was another winner. I loved how the nuttiness of sesame oil paired with the sweet, briny crab, while the trademark heat from the gochujang crept in on the back end.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03700.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Golden Prawn Toast"><br>
<strong>Golden Prawn Toast [$16.00]</strong> | ama ebi, brown butter, yangban makgeolli, golden sauce, cherry tomato, cured egg yolk<br>
This take on shrimp toast turned out to be the weakest of the snacks. I felt that the prawns were actually overwhelmed by the creamy, buttery elements in the dish, and flavors thus got a bit muddled. I found the bread a tad tough, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03684.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Left Hook"><br>
<strong>Left Hook [$16.00]</strong> | a tropically toned mexican punch / blanco tequila, mezcal, green tea, passionfruit, gochujang, lemon<br>
My first cocktail blended smoke and tropical fruits to good effect before finishing with a long-lasting heat. Think of it as a punch that packs quite a bit of punch.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03702.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Wagyu Stuffed Perilla Leaf"><br>
<strong>Wagyu Stuffed Perilla Leaf [$12.00]</strong> | vermicelli, beef fat tare, cotija<br>
This <em>yukjeon</em>-esque dish was another highlight. I was a fan of the juiciness and richness of the meat, and how that meshed with those crispy fried bits, all while the perilla contributed just enough brightness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03694.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Squashini Jeon"><br>
<strong>Squashini Jeon [$7.00]</strong> | whipped crème fraiche, trout roe<br>
A squash fritter ate dense and sweet, and really set the stage for a tasty juxtaposition of creamy with briny.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03706.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Fried Lobster Claw"><br>
<strong>Fried Lobster Claw [$16.00]</strong> | chojang mayo, tarragon, meyer lemon<br>
A sort of lobster <em>twigim</em> combined the crustacean's sweet salinity with subtle spicing, and I appreciated how its fried exterior provided crunch without getting in the way taste-wise. The fritter was delicious alone, but was taken up a notch by that <em>chojang</em>-boosted mayonnaise, which had this piquant spice that complemented the lobster without overpowering it.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03690.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Right Hook"><br>
<strong>Right Hook [$16.00]</strong> | juicy old fashioned / american whiskey, pandan, pineapple, pale cream sherry, bitters<br>
This old fashioned variation showcased the requisite bitter, boozy notes, but the key here was than pandan, which imparted this familiar, sweet, ricey warmth that really elevated the cocktail.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03710.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Grilled Cucumber"><br>
<strong>Grilled Cucumber</strong> | yangban chili oil, toasted cumin, meyer lemon juice<br>
The banchan here are on the creative side, and come in a set of five, priced at $28, and naturally we had to give 'em a try. Up first were the cucumbers, which came out bright, crunchy, and perfectly matched with that intriguing interplay between chili oil and the warm, nutty character of cumin.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03718.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Kimchi"><br>
<strong>Kimchi</strong> | kae sung kimchi, habanero, roasted sesame oil<br>
We had to have kimchi, of course, and tonight's possessed less heat, less sourness than I expected, but was quite a bit nuttier, which I didn't mind.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03722.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Steamed Broccoli"><br>
<strong>Steamed Broccoli</strong> | yuzu, chicken skin furikake<br>
Taken alone, the broccoli was lightly flavored, so its tart-yet-savory broth was crucial, as was the saltiness imparted by the chicken-y bits.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03728.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Blossom"><br>
<strong>Blossom [$16.00]</strong> | our version of the white negroni / sesame washed gin, blanc vermouth, locally produced amaro angeleno<br>
Our third cocktail really conveyed that bittersweetness you expect from a Negroni. At the same time though, the sesame gave the drink a beguiling nuttiness that I thoroughly enjoyed.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03716.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Brokaw Avocado & Shinko Pear"><br>
<strong>Brokaw Avocado & Shinko Pear</strong> | hot mustard, california almonds, yangban rice seasoning<br>
Up next was arguably the most interesting of tonight's banchan. The crux here was the interaction between that juicy Asian pear and the dish's unabashedly savory, spicy components, underscored by a mustard-y heat. In addition, the avocado served as a creamy moderator, and I liked the nutty crunch of those almonds, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03726.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Honey Glazed Carrots"><br>
<strong>Honey Glazed Carrots</strong> | whipped yogurt, halaawi date, walnut oil, herbs<br>
The carrots were certainly a favorite. I loved their dense, sticky consistency, while flavors were sweet and nutty, with a fantastic herbal counterpoint. Very clever.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03734.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sujebi"><br>
<strong>Sujebi [$28.00]</strong> | white kimchi beurre blanc, poached ocean trout, trout roe, dill<br>
Hand-pulled pasta ate hearty and satisfying, with a great chew, while that duet of supple, saline trout and zippy dill was a match made in heaven.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03746.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Jungle Juice"><br>
<strong>Jungle Juice</strong> | cocchi americano, amaro angeleno, peach tea, coconut water, sherry, brandy, pineapple juice, watermelon, pandan syrup, whiskey, orange vermouth, dry vermouth<br>
Given that we'd ordered so much, we were given a complimentary serving of Yangban's "secret" cocktail. Due to the huge hodgepodge of ingredients in the drink, there was lots going on, but it all coalesced surprisingly well. I actually got a vaguely carrot-y sensation, offset by a very apparent, amaro-like bittersweetness. A fun one.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03742.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Lobster Congee Pot Pie"><br>
<strong>Lobster Congee Pot Pie [$32.00]</strong> | poached lobster tail, fine herbs, marigold, lobster brown butter<br>
I'm a sucker for pot pie, so this was an absolute must-try for me. I was pretty smitten by the concentration, depth, savoriness, and sheer coziness of the congee, and loved how the porridge contrasted with the lightly cooked pieces of lobster up top, while the herbs provided further brightness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03738.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Matzoh Ball Mandu"><br>
<strong>Matzoh Ball Mandu [$26.00]</strong> | stuffed with grandma sindy's matzoh ball, chicken broth, shmaltz<br>
This matzah-mandoo mash-up was an effective reimagining of a classic Jewish staple. I was a fan of the texture on the dumplings, while their subdued flavors melded easily with the assertively chicken-y notes from the soup.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03750.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="garlic butter black rice"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03754.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Gochujang Braised Black Cod"><br>
<strong>Gochujang Braised Black Cod [$42.00]</strong> | joseon radish, rice cake, kabocha squash, sylvetta arugula, garlic butter black rice<br>
<em>Eundaegu</em> arrived wonderfully soft, buttery, and flaky, the fish's subtle flavors working hand-in-hand with a refined-yet-robust, slightly peppery gochujang broth. The greens lightened the mood, and I appreciated the additional textural interest from the <em>tteok</em>. The cod was accompanied by a bowl of rice, which was excellent texturally, and had this restrained garlickiness that really worked for me.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03764.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Desert Lotus"><br>
<strong>Desert Lotus [$16.00]</strong> | elemental margarita variant / mezcal, cactus pear brandy, melon, acidified prickly pear water<br>
The night's final cocktail was lovely, commingling the captivating smokiness of mezcal with the even more captivating sweetness of prickly pear.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03756.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Grilled King's Cut Short Rib"><br>
<strong>Grilled King's Cut Short Rib [$52.00]</strong> | potato puree, grilled king trumpet and shiitakes, galbi jus, toasted bread crumb, horseradish, chive<br>
Our short rib dish didn't quite meet the mark. The beef was as tender and fatty as I was hoping for, but was overly seasoned for my tastes, especially when taken with the mushrooms, though the puréed potatoes did help even things out. I also would've liked a bit more smoke character on the meat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03762.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Stone Pot Rice"><br>
<strong>Stone Pot Rice [$44.00]</strong> | koshihikari rice, peads and barnett pork belly, aged kaesung kimchi, bean sprout dashi, garlic chive kimchi<br>
The <em>dolsot</em> rice was another must-try, and turned out to be another favorite. The pork itself was well spiced and richly flavored, and paired perfectly with the veggies, the zestiness of the <em>buchu</em> being particular apropos. I also reveled in how satisfying the rice itself was, and enjoyed how the heat from the aged kimchi seemed to help tie everything together. My only quibble was that I wanted more <em>nurungji</em> action.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03776.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Matang Goguma Custard Pie"><br>
<strong>Matang Goguma Custard Pie [$16.00]</strong> | roasted white sweet potato, condensed milk, vanilla, burnt sugar<br>
Our lone dessert also delivered. The sweetness of <em>goguma</em> was front and center, and combined like clockwork with the pie's smoky, sugary brûléed top. The vanilla-laced condensed milk sauce was also pretty great, and taken all together, and I swear that I tasted Danish butter cookies in there.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03768.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Jeju Semi-Handcrafted Sejak Green Tea"><br>
Closing things out was a cup of <strong>Jeju Semi-Handcrafted Sejak Green Tea [$6]</strong>, a relatively easy-going <em>nogcha</em> with a decidedly fruity quality.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231213-Yangban/DSC03778.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mammos Nurungji Candy"><br>
Arriving with the bill was some scorched rice candy from producer Mammos (맘모스).
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I enjoyed Yangban Society before, but I do have to conclude that Yangban represents an improvement across the board thanks to its more sophisticated food, drink, and service. The cooking here is smart, engaging, personal, and quite unlike anything else in LA, and the whole concept simply feels more fully-formed; it just feels right. Yet, the original ethos, the original <em>raison d'être</em> behind the restaurant is still plainly recognizable, so I'm glad that the Hongs didn't lose sight of their original vision. Now that being said, I'm very curious to find out what the next evolution of the restaurant will bring. Personally, I'd like to see the team institute a proper tasting menu...kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-7204306984556604502023-12-09T20:00:00.000-08:002024-02-10T00:27:06.409-08:00Mírate (Los Angeles, CA)<b><i>Mirate Restaurant<br>
1712 N Vermont Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90027<br>
323-649-7937<br>
<a href="http://www.mirate.la" target="_blank">www.mirate.la</a><br>
Sat 12/09/2023, 08:00p-11:20p</i></b><br>
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<center><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03672.jpg" width="266" height="400" border="3" alt="Mírate Entrance"></center>
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The last time I caught up with Chef Joshua Gil was over three years ago, not too long after he and Matthew Egan debuted <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2020/09/mirame-beverly-hills-ca.html" target="_blank">Mírame</a> in Beverly Hills. The Alta California cuisine spot was generally well received, and eventually spawned a more casual sister eatery called Mírate ("look at you"), which grand-opened on November 18th last year and immediately went in my spreadsheet of restaurants to try. Now unfortunately, Mírame ended up shuttering at the start of July, though there is another location in the works up in Menlo Park.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03622+DSC03624+DSC03626.jpg" width="1130" height="345" border="3" alt="Mírate Upstairs Bar/Lounge"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03628+DSC03630+DSC03632.jpg" width="1130" height="315" border="3" alt="Mírate Upper Bar/Lounge"><br>
Mírate is housed in a building in Los Feliz (near its border with East Hollywood) that once held the combo of Vermont Restaurant/Rockwell, VT/Show at Barre, which was later merged into Rockwell Table & Stage. That business was then split again, with the front portion becoming Botanique, then BlackRose, and now Hi Tops, while the rear is now home to Mírate. In any case, what we see here is the upstairs bar, right beyond the host stand.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03638+DSC03636+DSC03634.jpg" width="1130" height="305" border="3" alt="Mírate Upstairs Dining Area"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03660+DSC03662+DSC03664+DSC03666+DSC03668+DSC03670.jpg" width="1130" height="305" border="3" alt="Mírate Upper Dining Room"><br>
Pictured above is the upstairs dining area, which, according to the restaurant itself, is "Tulum-inspired," but with "boho vibes." The design comes to us courtesy of <a href="https://www.adeanstudios.com/mirate" target="_blank">Adean Studios</a>, a San Francisco-based firm that also penned Mirame.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03648+DSC03650+DSC03652+DSC03654+DSC03656+DSC03658.jpg" width="1130" height="435" border="3" alt="Mírate Lower Dining Room"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03642+DSC03644+DSC03646.jpg" width="1130" height="319" border="3" alt="Mírate Downstairs Bar/Lounge"><br>
Finally, we see the downstairs dining area and bar. It's a pretty sizeable restaurant overall, spanning roughly 7,000 square-feet and accommodating nearly 200 guests.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03442l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03442.jpg" width="400" height="300" border="3" alt="Mírate Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03440l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03440.jpg" width="400" height="300" border="3" alt="Mírate Cocktail, Wine & Beer List"></a><br>
The menu leans modern Mexican, of course, but reads a bit more casually than that of Mírame. We also get a selection of theme-appropriate cocktails by Max Reis (<a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2017/02/republique-los-angeles-ca-2.html" target="_blank">Republique</a>, Gracias Madre), as well as an array of Mexican wines and beers. Click for larger versions.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_202134l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_202134.jpg" width="359" height="290" border="3" alt="Mírate Spirits List: Cover"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_201448l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_201448.jpg" width="359" height="290" border="3" alt="Mírate Spirits List: Oaxaca"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_201827l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_201827.jpg" width="359" height="290" border="3" alt="Mírate Spirits List: Puebla, Guerrero, Michoacan, Estado de Mexico, Tepe, Jalisco"></a><br>
<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_201850l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_201850.jpg" width="359" height="290" border="3" alt="Mírate Spirits List: Tequila"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_201857l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_201857.jpg" width="359" height="290" border="3" alt="Mírate Spirits List: San Luis Potosi, Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, Durango, Chihuahua, Sonora, Sotol / Cucharilla"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_201904l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/20231209_201904.jpg" width="359" height="290" border="3" alt="Mírate Spirits List: Rum, Gin, Whisky, Fruit Brandy, Ponche, Amargo"></a><br>
I imagine that Mírate must have one of the most impressive agave spirits lists in town, and it's pretty neat that they also carry quite a few non-agave Mexican distillates as well. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03466.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Tostadas"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03468.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Crab Esquites"><br>
<strong>Crab Esquites [$13.00]</strong><br>
The sweetness of corn and the sweetness of crab joined forces in our first course, supported by an underlying element of umami.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03454.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="El Taquero"><br>
<strong>El Taquero [$20.00]</strong> | pineapple, lacto chorizo, lemon, chamomile honey, mirate x mal bien espadin<br>
The menu described this cocktail as a spicy margarita. I'd say that it was less spicy and more overtly smoky-savory, but smoothed out by a healthy dosing of fruit and honey.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03478.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Callo de Hacha Tostada"><br>
<strong>Callo de Hacha Tostada [$16.00]</strong> | scallops, sofrito, black lime, peanut salsa<br>
Scallops arrived gratifyingly-textured, and showed off a cool brine that linked up with the wonderfully nutty heat of that salsa, while all the herbs lightened things up.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03474.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Kampachi Aguachile Tatemado"><br>
<strong>Kampachi Aguachile Tatemado [$24.00]</strong> | habanero, black lime, tomatillo<br>
Meaty cuts of amberjack were joined by a bevy of bitter, herbaceous, citrusy, and creamy notes, yet the fish never got overwhelmed. This was more complex than I expected, and that's a good thing in my book.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03450.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Mi Compa"><br>
<strong>Mi Compa [$20.00]</strong> | grapefruit soda de la casa, guanábana, tromba blanco, salt<br>
This rather clear cocktail was a riff on a paloma, and displayed the assertive, yet approachable character of agave in a fizzy, fruity package that was nearly Sprite-like at times.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03486.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Coctel de Mariscos"><br>
<strong>Coctel de Mariscos [$22.00]</strong> | shrimp, scallops, tomato, cucumbers<br>
This seafood cocktail delivered with its fresh, lively flavors, supported by plenty of bright herbs and veggies.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03516.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mushroom Taco"><br>
<strong>Mushroom Taco [$10.00]</strong> | spicy oyster mushroom, ground esquites, sesame salsa, flour tortilla<br>
In our first taco, woodsy oyster 'shrooms melded easily with a nutty salsa, the interaction supported by sweet spices and zippy microgreens.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03456.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="La Sonadora"><br>
<strong>La Sonadora [$20.00]</strong> | passionfruit, almond, green tea, nativo gin, goat milk, lemon, absinthe<br>
I can't resist ordering a clarified milk punch when I see one on a cocktail list, and tonight was no exception to that rule. The drink was silky on the palate, while taste-wise, I got a strong anise-y kick up front, leading to herbaceous, bitter nuances and a distinct "cheesiness" courtesy of that goat's milk. Pretty cool.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03526.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Grilled Fish Taco"><br>
<strong>Grilled Fish Taco [$10.00]</strong> | grilled rock cod, wasabi crema, jicama slaw, flour tortilla<br>
Rock cod came out properly flaky, with a nice smoke and sear, and certainly made sense with its bright, fruity accompaniments.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03534.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Yucca Sucias"><br>
<strong>Yucca Sucias [$15.00]</strong> | cheesy chorizo yucca fries<br>
Yuca fries were great texturally thanks to their crisp outsides and fluffy interiors, and meshed well with the dish's cheesy, subtly spicy elements.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03504.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="El Amargado"><br>
<strong>El Amargado [$20.00]</strong> | legendario domingo cupreata, distilado con mango & loquat, cucumber infused mexican red bitter, vermouth<br>
This next cocktail was viscous and palate-coating, with a strong mintiness commingled with fruity components and a long-lasting bitterness. A smart take on a negroni.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03546.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Whole Fried Snapper"><br>
<strong>Whole Fried Snapper [$69.00]</strong> | jus, avocado pico, fermented chintextle salsa<br>
A whole fried fish was no doubt visually impressive, but also met the mark with its moist, tender consistency and spot-on seasoning. I was a big fan of that chintextle, with its concentrated, familiar, dried shrimp-boosted savoriness and spice that was actually vaguely Asian-y. At the same time, the herbs and tomatillo salad helped lighten the mood.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03566.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Grilled Cabbage"><br>
<strong>Grilled Cabbage [$15.00]</strong> | sumac crema, chicatanas, chiltepin, cotija, pickled onions & fresnos, chapulines<br>
Next came the most contemplative dish of the night. I was smitten by the cabbage's bitter, charred qualities and creeping heat, as well as its crunch, but the most intriguing thing here was the smoky piquancy imparted by the duo of ants and grasshoppers.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03560.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="El Yaki"><br>
<strong>El Yaki [$20.00]</strong> | papaya, bacanora, xtabentun, lime<br>
This sour-inspired cocktail demonstrated a smoky, honeyed sweetness, tempered by the egg white and a bevy of bitter, herby accents.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03582.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="La Quesadilla"><br>
<strong>La Quesadilla [$19.00]</strong> | corn tortilla filled with huitlacoche, quesillo, spicy guacasalsa<br>
I was particularly interested in trying the quesadilla due to its use of huitlacoche. And indeed, the corn smut delivered its signature mushroom-like earthiness, marrying seamlessly with the lusciousness of Oaxacan cheese while the salsa imparted a prickly heat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03604.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Cotija Basque Cheesecake"><br>
<strong>Cotija Basque Cheesecake [$16.00]</strong> | jamaica, persimmon, puffed cocoa soil<br>
Basque cheesecake has been all the rage over the past couple years, but tonight's version wasn't quite what I was looking for. It veered overly tart, overly fruity, and I really wanted to taste more smoke, though I did appreciate all those nutty bits.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03556.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="El Tocayo"><br>
<strong>El Tocayo [$22.00]</strong> | el tesoro x Mirate reposado, mal bien x Mirate espadin, house mole bitters, nogave, sal de chapulin<br>
What we had here was an effective variation on a Oaxacan old fashioned. The cocktail was uncommonly thick, in a good way, with smoke and bitterness at the fore, overarched by a great mole-fueled spiciness that was key.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03596.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Churro Donas"><br>
<strong>Churro Donas [$11.00]</strong> | miso dulce de leche<br>
Churro donuts had a nearly beignet-like texture, which I quite enjoyed, and were paired with a rich, caramel-y sauce that boasted a surprising depth thanks to its incorporation of miso.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03610.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mezcal Flan Brulee"><br>
<strong>Mezcal Flan Brulee [$13.00]</strong> | nixtamalized papaya, cacao crunch<br>
A reimagined crème brûlée had that hard, caramelized sugar top that I was looking for, but wasn't as creamy as I'd hoped. I did appreciate all those nutty bits though, as well as the dessert's herbaceous nuances.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03618.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mi Vieja"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03620.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mi Vieja (Poured in Glass)"><br>
<strong>Mi Vieja [$20.00]</strong> | lalo tequila, paranubes, dry vermouth, campechana water, epazote<br>
The evening's final cocktail was a pretty clever martini variation. I was a fan of the drink's generally savory, pickle-y, vegetal nature, but at the same time, it was actually quite soft and easy-drinking.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231209-Mirate/DSC03606.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Cookies & Milk"><br>
<strong>Cookies & Milk [$13.00]</strong> | mocha mole spiced cookies, vanilla ice cream, miso cajeta<br>
Last up was a Pizookie-esque dessert that offered up a delectable combo of ice cream and spicy-sweet cookies in a straightforwardly satisfying manner. I just wished that the cookies were served warmer.
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I have to say that my experience at Mírate exceeded expectations, as both the food and the cocktails were more interesting than I'd anticipated, yet still familiar and accessible, so hats off to the team. Now this does make me wonder: will we ever see Mírame again? I'm not holding out hope, but in the meantime, Gil just opened two concepts over at Level 8 at Moxy DTLA back at the end of August. The first is a teppanyaki spot called Maison Kasai, while the second is an open-air raw bar/Champagne bar by the name of Mother of Pearl. Maybe I'll give those a try coming up.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-1993457721058538942023-12-02T17:00:00.000-08:002024-02-05T22:58:07.685-08:00Jungsik (New York, NY)<b><i>Jungsik Restaurant<br>
2 Harrison St, New York, NY 10013<br>
212-219-0900<br>
<a href="http://www.jungsik.com" target="_blank">www.jungsik.com</a><br>
Sat 12/02/2023, 05:00p-07:15p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03286+DSC03280+DSC03282+DSC03284.jpg" width="1130" height="300" border="3" alt="Jungsik Exterior">
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For the final dinner of my recent side trip to NYC, I returned to Tribeca to dine at a restaurant that I'd been wanting to try for the better part of a decade. Jungsik was opened back in 2011 by Chef Jungsik Yim, and is essentially the birthplace of modern Korean cuisine (in the US). It's a genre of cooking that has since grown to be quite influential at the higher echelons of the American dining scene, so I definitely wanted to experience the O.G. for myself.
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<u><em>About the Chef</em></u>: Yim Jung-sik (임정식) was born in January 1978, and grew up in Suwon. He wasn't particularly interested in cooking as a youngster, but was forced to learn after he started his mandatory military service at age 19. After he got out of the army, he wanted to pursue a career in hospitality, and thus sought out jobs in Seoul, first at a bar, then a rice cake shop, and then a bakery. In 2003, Yim relocated to New York in order to study at the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, where he educated himself in Western cuisine and actually met many of his future employees. Following graduation in 2005, he trained at Aquavit and Bouley in New York, then ate his way around Europe and returned to South Korea. He then went to Spain in 2007, where he apprenticed at both Zuberoa and Akelarre.
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Back in Seoul, he was now ready to open his own restaurant, and thus debuted Jung Sik Dang (정식당) in January 2009, located at 567-28 Sinsa-dong in Gangnam. Curiously, the name was meant to be a pun, combing <em>jeongsik</em> (meaning a full-course meal, and the Chef's first name) with <em>sikdang</em> (meaning restaurant). The place generated a fair amount of buzz for its "New Korean" cooking, and in spring 2010, Yim moved Jungsik Dang to a new location at 649-7 Sinsa-dong, near Dosan Park. The original location was converted to a casual eatery called Anzu, which has since shuttered and is now home to an outpost of <em>bunsik</em> specialist School Food. Not long after, the Chef signed a lease on a space in New York City, and the second Jungsik ended up debuting on September 12th, 2011.
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Business wasn't particularly brisk at first, but did steadily improve, especially after the place was awarded a Michelin star in October 2012 (the first Korean restaurant to achieve the feat). A second star arrived the following October (another first), and has been retained ever since. In 2014, the Seoul restaurant moved to its current location in Cheongdam-dong, while an attached wine bar called Jungsik Bar launched in 2015. November 2016 saw the restaurant attain a Michelin star in the inaugural Seoul guide, while a second came just a year later, and has also been maintained.
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In January 2018, Yim opened Pyunghwaok (평화옥, or "Peace House") at Incheon International Airport. Serving a menu of casual Korean staples, the restaurant expanded to the Hyundai Department Store (World Trade Center) in May 2018, as well as a multi-concept food space called Regular Six in June 2019. However, the mini chain shuttered in April 2020 due to financial malfeasance. In April 2019, Jungsik Bar was turned into an easy-going all-day spot called Jungsik Cafe (정식카페). Yim's latest venture is I Pho U (아이뽀유), a Vietnamese concept that opened in August 2020 inside Hotel Anteroom Seoul.
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Unsurprisingly, Yim doesn't spend most of his time here in New York, so the day-to-day is run by Executive Chef Daeik Kim (김대익), a native of Gangwon Province who started cooking for himself at an early age, as both his parents worked. He was also taught by his mother, and went on to attend culinary school in Korea. He subsequently moved to Australia to broaden his skillset, then came to New York to study at the Culinary Institute of America. After graduating in 2018, he joined the team at Jungsik as a sous, and worked his way up the ranks, eventually being promoted to EC in September 2021, replacing Suyoung Park.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/20231202_171744+20231202_171746+20231202_171748+20231202_171749+20231202_171751.jpg" width="1130" height="305" border="3" alt="Jungsik Interior"><br>
Jungsik takes over the former home of David Waltuck's longstanding Chanterelle, which closed in 2009. Shown above is the dining room, an elegant, relatively subdued space that can accommodate up to 32 guests. There's also a bar area, as well as a private dining room that can seat an additional 18.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03433l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03433.jpg" width="169" height="300" border="3" alt="Jungsik Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03434l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03434.jpg" width="169" height="300" border="3" alt="Jungsik Supplements Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03435l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03435.jpg" width="169" height="300" border="3" alt="Jungsik Signed Final Menu"></a><br>
Jungsik's Signature Menu was priced at a pre-paid $295, plus $26.18 tax and a $5 Tock fee, while standard/premium/non-alcoholic pairings were offered at $200/$500/$115. The restaurant's cocktail list and selection of wines by the glass, <em>sul</em>, beer, tea, spirits and sundry other beverages can be viewed <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/Bar-Menu_Current-3.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>, while Cameron Dellinger's full wine list is provided <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/Jungsik-Wine-List-Current-2023-2.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03288.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Banchan"><br>
A meal at Jungsik begins with an array of banchan, reimagined as amuse-bouches.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03292.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Jet-Bang-Uh"><br>
<strong>1a: Jet-Bang-Uh</strong> | Doenjang, Celtuce, Gamtae Tuile<br>
I began with the <em>jaetbang-eo</em>, or amberjack, which was paired with dueling forces of earthy soybean paste and juicy Granny Smith apple, while a delicate seaweed powder-enriched tuile offered up a well-placed crunch.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03296.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Yukwe"><br>
<strong>1b: Yukwe</strong> | Wagyu Beef Tartare, Truffle, Brioche<br>
This take on a classic tartare was pretty spot-on, the beef arriving full-flavored, gratifyingly-textured, and paired with complementary flavors of cheese and truffle. At the same time, the bread moderated all the elements at play, and provided a nice toasty finish to the bite.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03304.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Bussanhaeng"><br>
<strong>Bussanhaeng [$22.00]</strong> | Montreuil Calvados, Absinthe, Pinot Noir Juice<br>
I opted for cocktails tonight, which are the creation of Head Bartender Romeo Lacandola. I began with this <em>Train to Busan</em>-inspired concoction due to its use of calvados, and quite liked its zippy, multifaceted fruitiness, backed by a pronounced herbaceousness from the absinthe.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03300.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Gyeranjjim"><br>
<strong>1c: Gyeranjjim</strong> | Soft Steamed Egg, Gamtae Seaweed<br>
The steamed egg ate as supple and luscious as I was hoping for, and I loved the addition of that grassy, oceany seaweed, too--it's something that more restaurants should utilize in their <em>gyeran-jjim</em>.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03308.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Joomukbap"><br>
<strong>1d: Joomukbap</strong> | Squid Ink Rice, Squid and Shrimp, Gochujang<br>
A truffle-looking <em>jumeokbap</em> was another winner. I was a big fan of the texture on both the rice and seafood here, and the bite's nutty, spicy-sweetness worked for me as well.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03311.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Tuna Tomato Tartlet"><br>
<strong>1e: Tuna Tomato Tartlet</strong> | Tuna Belly and Loin, Meisil Tomatoes<br>
Spanish bluefin showed off a growing savoriness, one offset by the fresh, fruity nature of <em>maesil</em>-marinated tomatoes, tomato gelée, and lime zest, while the tart's pastry base offered up further contrast.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03315.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Langoustine 랑구스틴"><br>
<strong>2: Langoustine 랑구스틴</strong> | Oscietre Caviar, Dongchimi Emulsion<br>
In my first proper course, binchotan-grilled Norweigian langoustine was superb texturally, and displayed a sweetness that linked up easily with the saltiness of the Ossetra. However, what really set this apart was that sauce, a creamy emulsion made from <em>dongchimi</em> broth and smoked butter, spiked with zingy anise oil.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03322.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Octopus 문어"><br>
<strong>3: Octopus 문어</strong> | Gochujang Aioli<br>
In this thoroughly reimagined take on <em>nakji-bokkeum</em>, Spanish octopus was braised in dashi, resulting in a perfectly tender consistency and just the right amount of sweet salinity, while just as important was that crispy crust, which was super savory and oh-so satisfying. The <em>mun-eo</em> was delicious alone, but I also took a liking to the funky heat imparted by that gochujang condiment. This is often considered Jungsik's signature dish, and I can absolutely see why. It's actually a contender for the best octopus I've ever had.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03342.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Bori Martini"><br>
<strong>Bori Martini [$26.00]</strong> | Jung One, Damsol Pine, Lillet, Sesame, Bori<br>
My next cocktail was a martini variation that really showcased the unmistakable nutty savor of sesame, juxtaposed against the freshness of pine and the roastiness of barley.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03332.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Wagyu Gomtang Mandoo 곰탕와규만두"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03334.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Wagyu Gomtang Mandoo 곰탕와규만두 (With Broth)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03338.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Wagyu Gomtang Mandoo 곰탕와규만두 (Dumpling)"><br>
<strong>4: Wagyu Gomtang Mandoo 곰탕와규만두</strong> | A5 Miyazaki Wagyu, Gomtang Broth<br>
Wagyu mandu were excellent, tasting classic and comforting, with a superb veggie component. The dumplings paired like clockwork with the broth (made from boiling beef bones/feet/brisket for 24 hours), which was simultaneously heady yet light, with a great peppery edge. If that wasn't enough, a silky slice of A5 Miyazaki tenderloin was draped on top of the dish, amping up the deliciousness factor even further. Luxurious yet uncompromisingly cozy, this was another highlight for me.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03345.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sea Urchin Bibimbap 성게비빔밥"><br>
<strong>Supplement: Sea Urchin Bibimbap 성게비빔밥 [$75.00]</strong> | Seaweed Rice, Kimchi, Crispy Quinoa<br>
Given my penchant for both sea urchin and bibimbap, this was a must-try for me, and did not disappoint. Sourced from Hokkaido, the <em>seong-ge</em> had that creamy, sweet, saline character that I wanted, and married effortlessly with the nuttiness and savoriness of quinoa, sesame, and roasted gim-boosted rice. This has been a signature Jungsik dish since pretty much the very beginning, and for good reason, but now I'm left wondering: would the dish be even better if done <em>dolsot</em> style, in order to get some <em>nurungji</em> action going?
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03352.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Arctic Char 북극 곤들매기"><br>
<strong>5: Arctic Char 북극 곤들매기</strong> | Cured and Dry-Aged, Perilla Emulsion<br>
Arctic char was cured with ginger, citrus, and herbs, then dry-aged, then grilled over binchotan, resulting in a properly rare cook and a delightfully crisp, salty, smoky skin. The fish was then accompanied by a piquant, herby emulsion incorporating perilla, kimchi, fermented tomato, and smoked trout roe.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03364.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Black Cod 은대구"><br>
<strong>Supplement: Black Cod 은대구 [$45.00]</strong> | Doenjang, Shishito Relish, Clam Foam<br>
Alaskan <em>eundaegu</em> was marinated overnight in fermented soybean paste, cooked to caramelized perfection, then served with a shishito <em>jangajji</em> and clam foam. I'm pretty sure that this was the best black cod I've ever had. I loved its super luscious, flaky consistency and buttery goodness, while the <em>doenjang</em> contributed a wonderfully sweet earthiness. Furthermore, the clam imparted a refined saline edge to the fish, while the pickled peppers gave things a prickly heat that served as a great accent piece.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03376.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Yellowtail Kimbap 방어김밥 (Sliced Fish)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03382.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Yellowtail Kimbap 방어김밥"><br>
<strong>6: Yellowtail Kimbap 방어김밥</strong> | Truffle Rice, Seaweed Bugak<br>
Fatty slices of <em>bang-eo</em> arrived dressed in a particularly nutty soy sauce and garnished with green shiso. The fish was delish alone, but really sang when eaten with the roll, which featured beautifully seasoned truffle rice and zesty kimchi wrapped in some wondrously crispy, grassy seaweed. It was pretty much a match made in heaven. Yum.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03356.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Perthimmon Saz"><br>
<strong>Perthimmon Saz [$22.00]</strong> | New Riff Balboa Rye, Persimmon, Apricot, Absinthe, Red Shiso<br>
My final cocktail was this rejiggered Sazerac, with its lovely fruitiness right up front, effectively countered by a bevy of bitter, herby nuances.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03386.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Galbi 갈비 (Naengmyun)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03394.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Galbi 갈비"><br>
<strong>7: Galbi 갈비</strong> | Wagyu Shortrib, Naengmyun<br>
Four-day-marinated galbi ate supple and fatty, with a familiar sweetness that, fortunately, didn't overwhelm the meat, though I would've liked a bit more smoke and sear, especially since the cut was finished over a binchotan grill. The beef was served with a bowl of <em>mul naengmyeon</em>, and I thoroughly enjoyed the nutty, chewy nature of the noodles, as well as that super refreshing, beef-boosted broth, with its touches of funk and heat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03399.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Strawberry 딸기"><br>
<strong>8: Strawberry 딸기</strong> | Oat Yuja Granita, Tasmanian Pepperberry<br>
Desserts are the charge of Eunchong Kim, another alumna of the original Jungsik who started here in 2022. In my first dessert, a Harry's Berries strawberry sorbet was combined with frozen raspberries and almonds, then topped with an oat-yuzu granita, a drizzle of olive oil, and a sprinkling of Tasmanian pepperberries. Flavors were delectably jammy and tart, as well as simultaneously nutty, with overarching notes of refreshing citrus and just a tinge of pepperiness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03412.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Carrot 당근 (In Garden)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03416.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Carrot 당근"><br>
<strong>9: Carrot 당근</strong> | Cream Cheese Mousse, Black Tea Ice Cream<br>
In this rather playful dessert, I was asked to "harvest" a "carrot" composed of carrot cake, pecan praline, and cream cheese mousse, all encased in painted white chocolate. It really had that carrot-y sweetness and nuttiness I was looking for, and melded seamlessly with that chocolate-y black tea ice cream. Superb.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03422.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="NY-Seoul 뉴욕서울"><br>
<strong>Supplement: NY-Seoul 뉴욕서울 [$15.00]</strong> | Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream, Pecan Cone, Hyeonmi Cream, Pecan Praline<br>
This was a pecan cone filled with pecan praline and brown rice cream, layered with caramel, then topped with Tahitian vanilla ice cream. It was yet another winner, with the ice cream coalescing outstandingly with the familiar, nutty sweetness of both the cone and praline, all while the <em>hyeonmi</em> imparted a roasty twang.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03406.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Wild Persimmon 감잎차"><br>
To go along with my sweets, I requested some <strong>Wild Persimmon 감잎차 [$18]</strong> tea, which actually didn't convey as much persimmon as I was expecting, but instead demonstrated this surprising shrimp-like brine.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03428.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Hodugwaja 호두과자"><br>
<strong>10: Hodugwaja 호두과자</strong> | Walnut Cake, Red Bean Paste<br>
I was a fan of the <em>hodu-gwaja</em> as well. The pairing of walnut cake with the familiar sweetness of <em>patso</em> and pastry cream was marvelous. I wouldn't have minded popping a few more of these.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231202-Jungsik/DSC03430.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mignardises"><br>
My meal concluded with just about the most petite petits fours I'd ever seen. I started on the right with the miniature <em>yakgwa</em>, a nutty, gritty bite with both a slight bitterness and a touch of honey. In the middle was a tiny macaron flavored with mugwort (<em>ssuk</em>), which actually had a pistachio-like sweetness to it. Last up was a tart, citrusy, herbaceous <em>geumgyul jeonggwa</em> made from candied kumquat and what I believe was lemongrass.
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If one is looking to invent the category of contemporary Korean cuisine, then cooking like I experienced tonight is an obvious, effective, and delicious way to start. The food here veers more "Western" than I'd initially anticipated, but that never got in the way of my enjoyment, and indeed, somehow made the Korean influences even more exciting and vibrant. Meanwhile, service, coordinated by GM Kevin Goyenechea, was top-notch, really befitting the refinement of the cooking. My dinner actually exceeded expectations, and it'll be interesting to contrast it with other modern Korean meals, as the trend now is to lean less on the tropes of traditional Eurocentric fine dining like Jungsik does.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-19728701155210838322023-12-01T20:30:00.000-08:002024-02-03T01:53:52.558-08:00Double Chicken Please (New York, NY)<b><i>Double Chicken Please Bar<br>
115 Allen St, New York, NY 10002<br>
646-678-5452<br>
<a href="http://www.doublechickenplease.com" target="_blank">www.doublechickenplease.com</a><br>
Fri 12/01/2023, 08:30p-11:30p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DSC03274+DSC03272+DSC03276.jpg" width="1130" height="350" border="3" alt="Double Chicken Please Exterior">
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Following my meal at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/12/atera-new-york-ny.html" target="_blank">Atera</a>, I ventured over to the Lower East Side to check out Double Chicken Please, a new-ish cocktail bar that's been getting a lot of buzz lately. The place opened back in November 2020, and is the creation of Gn Chan (a.k.a. Chia-an Chan) and Faye Chen, in partnership with Huey Cheng's <a href="http://www.c9hg.com" target="_blank">Cloud 9 Hospitality Group</a>, the company behind the likes of Kura, Raku, and Pâtisserie Fouet.
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<u><em>About the Bartenders</em></u>: The story begins with Chan Chia-an, a native of Tainan, Taiwan who got into bartending by accident. He had majored in industrial design at Chang Gung University, and actually started his own firm, but lost it all due to some bad business dealings. Interestingly, he subsequently became a street magician, which led to him meeting a flair bartender, which led to a job at a bar, which led him to discover that he really loved bartending. It was also during this period that he would meet his future business partner, Faye Chen.
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Chen hails from Taoyuan, Taiwan, and began her hospitality career at the age of 19 as a waitress at a local bar. After witnessing a flair bartending performance, she became interested in the skill and began taking classes. She eventually made her way to the same flair-focused bar as Chan, but he would leave for New York City in 2011 in order to better his understanding of mixology. He held various jobs in NYC before being hired at the iconic Angel's Share in 2012, where he worked under the renowned Shingo Gokan, first starting as a host before moving his way up the ladder to bartender over the course of a year. It was during his tenure at the East Village establishment where he won the 2016 Bacardi Legacy Global cocktail competition.
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Gokan himself, meanwhile, relocated to Shanghai to launch a new bar called Speak Low, and through Chan's relationship with him, Chen also moved to China in 2014 to help with the opening. Speak Low dropped in June 2014 and rapidly made a name for itself, as did Chen when she won the Bacardi Legacy China competition in 2015.
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Chan wound up leaving Angel's Share in 2017 to start his own venture, and convinced Chen to join him in NYC. He purchased a Volkswagen Type 2 Westfalia camper van, and the two drove around the country holding cocktail pop-ups, though Chan also started bartending at Greenwich Village's Mace in November 2018. After a couple years of planning, the pair finally debuted Double Chicken Please on November 13th, 2020 with limited pandemic-era service. The full bar, with the back room and all, finally opened in July 2021, and DCP quickly began garnering accolades. In June 2022, it landed on the North America's 50 Best Bars list at #17, and just four months later, it was rated #6 on the World's 50 Best Bars ranking. May 2023 saw DCP secure the #1 spot on the North American list, and in October, it was voted #2 in the World--a pretty meteoric rise to say the least.
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And if you're wondering about why this place is called Double Chicken Please, Chan and a friend of his back in Taiwan both have "chicken"-based nicknames. The two of them were initially planning on opening up a design studio called Double Chicken Please following college graduation, but when that business never materialized, the moniker was repurposed for this bar.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/20231201_203328+20231201_203330+20231201_203331+20231201_203333+20231201_203335+20231201_203337+20231201_203338.jpg" width="1130" height="450" border="3" alt="Double Chicken Please Interior (Front Room)"><br>
I arrived at the bar a bit past 8:00 PM, got in line, and was approached to put my name on the waitlist for The Coop (the fancier back room) 15 minutes later. I then remained in line until I was let into the Front Room around 8:30 PM. As you can see above, it's a fairly small space, and largely standing-only. Cocktails here are on tap, and are ordered via the numbers posted on the wall. Note that DCP takes over the former home of Hill & Dale, which was Mary Queen of Scots and Allen & Delancey prior.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DSC03236.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="#4 - Shochu, Lemongrass, Gentian, Plum Green Tea"><br>
<strong>#4 - Shochu, Lemongrass, Gentian, Plum Green Tea [$15.00]</strong><br>
I ordered my first cocktail due to its somewhat unusual base spirit of shochu, and found it fizzy and refreshing, its subdued sweetness joined by grassy, nutty notes and accents of lemongrass.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DSC03238.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Popcorn Chicken + Thai Basil Aioli Sauce"><br>
<strong>Popcorn Chicken + Thai Basil Aioli Sauce [$12.00 + $4.00]</strong> | Ginger, White Pepper, Five Spice<br>
The popcorn chicken was absolutely calling my name, and the bird came out well-textured and pretty juicy, with a subtle heat supported by an underlying layer of spicy-sweetness. I also tried one of the optional sauces, and found a bit too restrained for my liking, as I really wanted the basil to be more assertive.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DSC03244.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="#2 - Tequila, Cocchi Americano, Bergamot, Grapefruit"><br>
<strong>#2 - Tequila, Cocchi Americano, Bergamot, Grapefruit [$15.00]</strong><br>
My second cocktail also delivered thanks to its mélange of tropical, fragrant, and grassy flavors, perked up by the bittersweetness of grapefruit.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/20231201_211254+20231201_211252.jpg" width="1130" height="450" border="3" alt="Double Chicken Please Interior (The Coop)"><br>
At 9:10 PM, I received a text notification to check in with the hostess for The Coop, though I wasn't permitted to enter until 25 minutes later. It's a much darker, clubbier, wood-paneled space befitting the more serious drinks being served.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/20231201_213647+20231201_213649+20231201_213651+20231201_213653+20231201_213654.jpg" width="1130" height="297" border="3" alt="Double Chicken Please Interior (The Coop Bar)"><br>
This was the view from my seat at the left corner of the bar. See <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DCP_Back Menu.pdf" target="_blank">here</a> for the menu, which includes food created by DCP's Executive Chef Mark Chou (<a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/10/eleven-madison-park-new-york-ny.html" target="_blank">Eleven Madison Park</a>, <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2008/12/le-bernardin-new-york-ny.htm" target="_blank">Le Bernardin</a>, O Ya, Blue Hill).
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DSC03248.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Japanese Cold Noodle"><br>
<strong>Japanese Cold Noodle [$20.00]</strong> | Bacardi Superior, Pineapple, Cucumber, Coconut, Lime, Sesame Oil<br>
The cocktails here are culinarily-inspired, and this first one really did capture the essence of the familiar noodle dish. I got a nose filled with bright cucumber, but with a decidedly savory twang, while taste-wise, the warm, nutty nature of the sesame oil was at the fore, countered by more cucumber and plenty of tropical fruit.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DSC03254.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Waldorf Salad"><br>
<strong>Waldorf Salad [$19.00]</strong> | Dewar's 15yr, Laphroaig 10yr, Apple, Celery, Ginger Ale, Walnut Bitters<br>
The next cocktail combined the requisite fruity, nutty flavors of the classic salad with a peppery spice and the unmistakable peatiness of that Islay whisky.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DSC03256.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Koji Cucumbers"><br>
<strong>Koji Cucumbers [$9.00]</strong> | Shio Kombu, Sesame, Thai Chili<br>
Cucumber showed off a welcoming crunch, while flavors went in a tangy, nutty, spicy direction.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DSC03258.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Red Eye Gravy"><br>
<strong>Red Eye Gravy [$20.00]</strong> | Teeling Irish Whiskey, Coffee Butter, Corn, Walnut, Wild Mushroom, Microwaved Coppa<br>
The American Southern staple of red-eye gravy was the inspiration behind my next cocktail. I quite liked its sugary, caramel-laced notes, contrasted against the distinctly earthy qualities of the mushrooms, while the coffee peeked through just enough. Big fan of that salty pork garnish, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DSC03264.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Butter Raisin Biscuit"><br>
<strong>Butter Raisin Biscuit [$20.00]</strong> | Chateau Montifaud Vieux Pineau, Black Raisin, Brown Butter<br>
I wanted to end with something a bit more dessert-y, hence my final cocktail. The drink really did a great job conveying the richness of brown butter, which combined seamlessly with the sweet-tart raisins, all while the Pineau des Charentes provided that necessary boozy weight.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-DoubleChickenPlease/DSC03268.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Le Big Mac"><br>
<strong>Le Big Mac [$11.00]</strong> | Macaron, Choco Ice Cream, Yuzu, Mochi (in collaboration with Pâtisserie Fouet)<br>
A sort of faux burger made for a fun finish to my experience, and strangely enough, I swear I tasted something hamburger-esque in there.
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I'm certainly glad that I made the effort (and braved the wait and the rain) to check out Double Chicken Please. The whole idea of doing food-inspired cocktails made for some really creative, delicious drinks, and I appreciated the duality of having the more casual Front Room available. The bartenders were quite friendly as well, and if I lived in the area, I could see DCP being one of my go-to spots.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-26868702461258105202023-12-01T17:00:00.000-08:002024-01-26T22:21:24.857-08:00Atera (New York, NY)<b><i>Atera Restaurant<br>
77 Worth St, New York, NY 10013<br>
212-226-1444<br>
<a href="http://www.ateranyc.com" target="_blank">www.ateranyc.com</a><br>
Fri 12/01/2023, 05:00p-07:30p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03228+DSC03226+DSC03230.jpg" width="1130" height="360" border="3" alt="Atera Exterior">
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The second dinner of my recent NYC side trip brought me to Atera, a place that I'd been curious to try for the better part of a decade. Named after a Basque word meaning "to go out," the restaurant was originally opened in March 2012 by Chef Matthew Lightner (ex-<a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2014/02/castagna-portland-or.html" target="_blank">Castagna</a>) and financial backer Jodi Richard. Two Michelin stars arrived just seven months after debut, but Lightner eventually departed in March 2015. He was quickly replaced by Ronny Emborg, who remains the head chef to this day.
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<u><em>About the Chef</em></u>: A native of Denmark, Ronny V. Emborg was born in December 1982. He began his culinary training in 2000 at Molskroen, a beachside hotel-slash-restaurant in Ebeltoft. In 2004, he left for a position aboard the <em>HDMY Dannebrog</em>, the private yacht of Queen Margrethe II of Denmark, then moved over to Copenhagen's posh Hotel d'Angleterre the following year. During this period, he also participated in the Bocuse d'Or, helping Rasmus Kofoed secure a bronze medal in '05. In 2006, Emborg became a sous chef at Restaurant Prémisse, and took on a similar role at Geranium in 2007. However, shortly after the move, he relocated to Spain for a year, during which time he cooked at Hacienda Benazuza (El Bulli Hotel), Mugaritz, and elBulli proper. He then returned to Denmark and landed a sous position at Herman at the Nimb Hotel.
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That post didn't last long though, and by June 2009, Emborg was Executive Chef at Restaurant AOC, which was the former Prémisse, but renamed due to an ownership split. It was here that he achieved his first Michelin star, in March 2010. The Chef ended up leaving to launch Marchal for his former employer Hotel D'Angleterre. The restaurant bowed in May 2013, and was awarded a Michelin star the following March. During this period, he also released his cookbook, entitled <em>The Wizard's Cookbook</em>. Despite this apparent success, Emborg would leave Denmark in March 2015 to become Exec Chef at Atera. He debuted his new menu in May that year, and has been able to retain the restaurant's two Michelin stars. In fact, the team has since launched Farra, a wine bar located just a couple doors down that opened back in March 2020.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/20231201_171026+20231201_171024+20231201_171029.jpg" width="1130" height="350" border="3" alt="Atera Interior"><br>
Atera occupies the former Tribeca home of Compose (also owned by Richard), which opened in December 2010 and closed after only eight months following the departure of Chef Nick Curtin. The restaurant is pretty much just a 13-seater counter surrounding the kitchen, though there is a single high top table accommodating up to five guests, as well as a private dining room. Shown above is the view from my seat, smack dab in the middle of the counter. As we can see, the cooks here wear toques, an old school touch that you don't encounter too often these days.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03278l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03278.jpg" width="193" height="300" border="3" alt="Atera Menu"></a><br>
Here's the night's menu, signed by Chef de Cuisine Erin Paterson, who apparently started out at Atera as a sous before working her way up to CdC. Pricing was a pre-paid $298 a person, plus $31.45 tax and a $5 Tock fee; note that service is not included. Wine/non-alcoholic pairings are an additional $198/$118, while the Old World-leaning wine list (presented to me tonight by sommelier Dan Lusardi) can be viewed <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/Wine-List-12.02.23.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>. Click for a larger version.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03148.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Hand Towel"><br>
Upon being seated, I was quickly presented with a eucalyptus-scented warm towel, which was much appreciated.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03154.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="King Crab"><br>
<strong>1: King Crab</strong> | Apple, Caviar<br>
In my first, amuse-bouche-like course, the sweetness of both king crab and Honeycrisp apple played off the salinity of Ossetra caviar, while a celeriac cream mediated the interaction.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03156.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="1999 Raventós I Blanc, Enoteca Personal, Conca Del Riu Anoia"><br>
To drink, the late-disgorged <strong>1999 Raventós i Blanc, Enoteca Personal, Conca Del Riu Anoia [$360]</strong> was an easy pick for me given the bottle's rarity (only 405 produced) and its below-retail pricing. I first tried the wine at cellar temperature, and found a bouquet filled with oxidized, nutty, honeyed, and smoky notes; the palate was similarly mature, and boasted a distinct earthiness to boot, while bubbles were fine and dissipated quickly. My second pour brought boatloads of white truffles on the nose, while-taste wise, the sparkler was noticeably sweeter and nuttier, but with a bitter edge. Pour #3 still had all those truffle aromas, but now with a nutty backing and drizzles of honey, and taking a sip, I found things quite a bit softer, rounder, and fruitier. I then requested that the bottle be chilled, which resulted in an amplification of the bubbly's oxidative, honeyed fragrances at the expense of the truffle, while the palate displayed more nuttiness, but with a markedly sweet backbone. It was a pleasure to witness the evolution of this wine over the course of the night.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03160.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Æbleskiver"><br>
<strong>2: Æbleskiver</strong> | Comte, Truffle<br>
The aebleskiver was a favorite thanks to its delightfully soft, fluffy interior and gratifying cheesiness, accented by pinpricks of sour lime, while the burgundy truffle imparted a smoky weight to the bite. I could've easily popped a few more of these.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03166.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Kaluga Caviar"><br>
<strong>3: Kaluga Caviar</strong> | Custard, Bonito<br>
My next course incorporated both bonito broth and smoked olive oil, and was also a highlight thanks to its perfect marriage of saline and smoke, all tempered by a cream custard. Delish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03170.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Trout Roe"><br>
<strong>4: Trout Roe</strong> | Nori, Foie Gras<br>
Though this might look your typical ikura <em>gunkanmaki</em>, it was quite a bit different, and quite a bit better than most. I was a particular fan of the rice here, which was firm in texture, and showed off this toastiness and nuttiness that meshed beautifully with the smoky, briny nature of the trout roe, all while the crispy nori added even more umami to the mix.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03174.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Hamachi"><br>
<strong>5: Hamachi</strong> | Avocado, Squash<br>
Fatty, briny shards of Japanese yellowtail were juxtaposed against the sweet-and-sour qualities of butternut squash, Cara Cara, Cape gooseberry, and a citrus ponzu, with a layer of avocado moderating it all. However, I could've used more acidity, salt, or savor to make thing a bit punchier.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03184.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Scallop"><br>
<strong>6: Scallop</strong> | Lobster, Truffle<br>
A well-caramelized Maine diver scallop and super sweet Maine lobster came together flawlessly, bound together by an ultra-concentrated lobster bisque, while disks of black truffle imparted further headiness. Another favorite for sure.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03188.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Ravioli"><br>
<strong>7: Ravioli</strong> | Ricotta, Oxtail, Mushroom<br>
This deceptively simple-looking course managed to be a crowd pleaser. The star of the show was a saffron-mushroom raviolo, with its commingling of woodsy, earthy, spicy-sweet, and grassy nuances at the fore, set against the weighty, dark-toned flavors of an oxtail ragù. At the same time, the ricotta foam helped tie it all together, and I appreciated the spinach as well, which lightened the mood.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03196.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Wagyu"><br>
<strong>8: Wagyu</strong> | Zucchini, Kombu, Harissa<br>
A5 striploin from Miyazaki was as luxurious as I was expecting, but what really set this apart was the use of harissa, which contributed this piquant heat that balanced out the fatty, smoky richness of the beef perfectly. Meanwhile, ribbons of zucchini and a zucchini purée worked to brighten things up.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03200.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Squab"><br>
<strong>9: Squab</strong> | Salsify, Carrot, Pear<br>
California squab showed off a superb depth and elegance, and paired like clockwork with a sliver of brioche (it's a combo I'd like to see more often). I was a fan of the coziness of the winter veggies as well, while carrot purée and a savory sabayon provided further dimension to the dish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03216.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="1982 D'Oliveiras, Boal Vintage, Madeira, Portugal"><br>
To go along with dessert, I ordered a glass of the <strong>1982 D'Oliveiras, Boal Vintage, Madeira, Portugal [$64]</strong>, which was actually just bottled last year. The wine smelled of juicy, woody raisins, sour fruit, and oxidation. Tasting the Bual, I found a soft palate brimming with more dark-n-dusty fruit, nuts, and a zippy acidity, all accented by touches of herb and mint.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03206.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Grapefruit"><br>
<strong>10: Grapefruit</strong> | Raspberry, Dulce<br>
The combination of a grapefruit-buttermilk sorbet, crème fraîche, warm raspberry sauce, and dulce de leche resulted in a spot-on interplay of lactic and tart-fruity flavors, with some great crunchy bits thrown in for good measure. Seemingly straightforward, yet surprisingly satisfying.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03210.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Pistachio"><br>
<strong>11: Pistachio</strong> | Milk, Caramel<br>
Coming out a vibrant shade of green, this was one of the best pistachio desserts I'd ever had. I loved the super familiar, super tasty nutty-sweet flavors happening here, joined by elements of chocolate and caramel. Excellent crunch from those bits of puffed rice, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231201-Atera/DSC03222.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Marshmallow + Mascarpone + Lemon"><br>
<strong>12: Marshmallow</strong> | Passionfruit<br>
<strong>13: Mascarpone</strong> | Black Sesame<br>
<strong>14: Lemon</strong> | Chocolate<br>
A trio of mignardises closed out the night:
<ul type="square">
<li>I began with the canelé-shaped marshmallow, with its passion fruit and coconut flavors, countered by a dark chocolate base.</li>
<li>Next up was a crunchy, surprisingly decadent miniature cone filed with coconut ganache and mascarpone.</li>
<li>Lastly, we had a nutty chocolate bonbon that melded together caramel and an unexpectedly tropical lemon curd.</li>
</ul>
Walking into Atera, I had expected the food to be somewhere along the lines of New Nordic, given Emborg's background and training. However, what I found was cuisine that veered unapologetically contemporary American, with no qualms about weaving in international influences, Japanese in particular. The end result was ingredient-centric cooking with a global edge, on one hand spare and delicate, on the other lux and full-bodied, all undergirded by the Chef's Danish sensibilities.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-69051829540270203832023-11-30T20:20:00.000-08:002024-01-22T00:50:22.052-08:00Jua (New York, NY)<b><i>Jua Restaurant<br>
36 E 22nd St, New York, NY 10010<br>
646-590-1598<br>
<a href="http://www.juanyc.com" target="_blank">www.juanyc.com</a><br>
Thu 11/30/2023, 08:20p-10:40p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03140+DSC03136+DSC03138.jpg" width="1130" height="380" border="3" alt="Jua Exterior">
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If you've read my last couple posts, you'll know that I was recently in DC for business. After my work was done, I decided to take a side trip up to NYC to eat, since the city's only about an hour flight away. One of the spots that I was curious to try was Jua, a modern Korean restaurant with a wood-fired focus that opened back at the start of 2020. The place is the creation of Chef Hoyoung Kim, in partnership with <a href="http://www.handhospitality.com" target="_blank">HAND Hospitality</a>, a company founded in 2011 that's probably best known for being one of the driving forces behind Atomix. A note on the name: when I first heard about Jua, I thought that it took its moniker from an odd romanization of <em>joh-a</em> (좋아), the Korean word for "good." However, it's actually <em>joo-ah</em> (주아), named in honor of the Chef's daughter Jua, who was in turn named after the French word "joie."
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<u><em>About the Chef</em></u>: A native of South Korea, Kim Ho-young (김호영) was born in February 1986, and got interested in cooking early on, helping his mother prepare meals. His initial education in the craft comprised both a culinary arts-focused high school and college-level studies in cooking and restaurant management. Following completion of his mandatory military service, Kim was able to secure a line cook gig at Jungsik Yim's game-changing Jung Sik Dang (정식당) in Seoul in 2009. When Yim opened his second outpost of Jungsik in Manhattan in 2011, he brought him over to help run the place. However, after only a couple years, Kim was allowed to go to France to broaden his skillset at École Grégoire-Ferrandi, which was followed by time spent under Pascal Barbot at L'Astrance. Meanwhile, in December 2015, his wife Mihee Baek gave birth to Jua (son Siwoo arrived two years later).
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Kim finished up at Astrance at the start of February 2016, and when he returned to the US a month later, he was made Executive Chef at Jungsik. In March 2018, he held a pop-up dinner at 29B Teahouse, which was followed by another in June at Atomix, and another in September at Hortus NYC. These dinners foreshadowed the Chef's departure from Jungsik in March 2019, which coincided with another pop-up (this one <em>hwe</em>-focused) at O:N. By July 2019, the buildout of Jua was already in progress, and the restaurant ended up debuting in late January 2020. In hindsight, that was a rather unfortunate time to commence operations, but the team was able to pivot to delivery/takeout/outdoor dining, and by May 2021, the place had secured a Michelin star, which has been retained. The success of Jua has since allowed Chef Kim to launch Moono, a more casual, more traditional Korean spot that opened at the end of March this year.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/20231130_202336+20231130_202333+20231130_202331+20231130_202329+20231130_202327+20231130_202325.jpg" width="930" height="400" border="3" alt="Jua Interior"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/20231130_222430.jpg" width="550" height="309" border="3" alt="Jua Dining Room"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/20231130_222412.jpg" width="550" height="309" border="3" alt="Jua Kitchen"><br>
Jua resides in a narrow building in the Flatiron District, one that features the bar up front, the dining room in the middle, and the kitchen in the back, with the design coming courtesy of local firm <a href="http://www.twopointzerony.com/JUA" target="_blank">Two Point Zero</a>. It's a fairly rustic-industrial space, and was reportedly meant to evoke the image of a mountain cabin.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03142l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03142.jpg" width="192" height="300" border="3" alt="Jua Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03023l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03023.jpg" width="189" height="300" border="3" alt="Jua Cocktail, Beer, Spirits & Tea List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03025l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03025.jpg" width="189" height="300" border="3" alt="Jua Wines by the Glass List"></a><br>
Here we see Jua's menu (signed by CdC Hyuna Lee, who comes from the Jungsik in Seoul), priced at a reasonable $135, with the optional wine pairing tacking on another $95. Also pictured is the restaurant's selection of cocktails, beers, <em>sul</em>, tea, and wines by the glass, all overseen by GM/Beverage Director Jaehoon No. The wine list--which veers French and young--can be viewed <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/Jua_Winelist_112123.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>. Corkage is $50 a bottle, limit two. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03038.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Caviar Kim"><br>
<strong>1: Caviar Kim</strong><br>
My meal began with a healthily-sized dollop of golden Ossetra caviar, set atop bluefin tartare, avocado, kimchi, and truffle rice, all encased in a wonderfully crispy seaweed wrapper. There was just such a gratifying interplay of flavors here: a nutty-toastiness up front, leading to the freshness of avocado and tuna, then to the saltiness of the caviar, then to the grassiness of the laver, and finally to the heat of kimchi and the gim's persistent savoriness. An unabashedly lux version of the <em>bunsik</em> staple that is gimbap, this was a fantastic start, one that really set the stage for the rest of the night.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03029.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Seoul Breeze"><br>
<strong>Seoul Breeze [$20.00]</strong> | Pine Soju, Crème de Menthe, Sakura Vermouth<br>
I opted for cocktails this evening, and this was neatest of the bunch. I found citrus and florals up front, but these notes were quickly overtaken by a potent, yet elegant pine-laced mintiness that lingered surprisingly long.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03048.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Uni Kim"><br>
<strong>Supplement: Uni Kim [$32.00]</strong><br>
A second, perhaps even more decadent one-biter kimbap variation married wonderfully sweet, briny Maine sea urchin with the nuttiness of rice and what I believe was soy-braised burdock, all offset, once again, by that perfectly delicate, shattery seaweed, which just might be the best I've had. Although this might look like a your typical <em>gunkan-maki</em>, it was, in fact, much, much better.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03058.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Scallop"><br>
<strong>2: Scallop</strong><br>
In this rather monochromatic course, Cape Cod scallop was served with burdock, bellflower roots, apple pear, and finger lime, then set in a smoked tofu-pine nut purée and capped with Japanese radishes. I loved how the sweet salinity of the scallops meshed with the creamy, nutty, and smoky character of the purée, while the pear and pricks of sourness from the citrus perked things up beautifully. A super clever mélange of flavors that I'd never tasted together before.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03064.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Pink Me!"><br>
<strong>Pink Me! [$18.00]</strong> | Haku Vodka, Cointreau, Bokbunja, Honey, Egg White<br>
I chose my second cocktail because I was curious as to how it'd incorporate the <em>bokbunja ju</em>. I found the drink honeyed and floral at first blush, supported by the sweet-tartness of the raspberries, all while that eggy foam softened the flavors at play.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03070.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Jook + Abalone"><br>
<strong>3: Jook + Abalone [+$20.00]</strong><br>
Next came what must be the best <em>jeonbok-juk</em> I've ever had, one bolstered by smoked eel, foie gras emulsion, king trumpet mushrooms, spinach, kimchi, sesame seeds, and chives. The abalone was fantastic texturally, with a rustic-yet-refined presentation of <em>gamchilmat</em> that I reveled in. However, the actual porridge was even more impressive thanks to how harmoniously all the components coalesced. I was especially fond of the bitterness imparted by the spinach, the flashes of nutty sesame, hints of citrus, as well as the dish's peppery undertone. A super comforting, yet exciting rendition of a Korean staple.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03084.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sam-Chi"><br>
<strong>4: Sam-Chi</strong><br>
A near-perfectly rectangular filet of Cape Cod Spanish mackerel was brined and charred, giving the fish a wonderful smoke and sophisticated brine, along with a pleasingly rare consistency. The brightness of a mustard-dressed green apple-chayote salad provided some crucial contrast, while a savory, zippy plum-soy dashi broth brought it all together.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03101.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Smoked & Spice"><br>
<strong>Smoked & Spice [$20.00]</strong> | Mezcal, Tequila, Amaro Nonino, Chili<br>
My third cocktail was much more restrained than I was expecting, given its description. Think light, fruity, citrusy nuances up front, leading to a creeping heat and smoke, accented by the herbal bittersweetness of the amaro.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03092.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Banchan"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03086.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Duck & Chan"><br>
<strong>5: Duck & Chan</strong><br>
Two-week dry-aged duck was excellent, its delectably deep, almost funky flavors perked up by a wonderfully crisp, salty skin. The <em>ori</em> was of course delicious alone, but was also accompanied by a selection of "banchan." Clock-wise from the bottom:
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<li>The chimichurri was the only accompaniment that I was specifically directed to have with the duck, and its zestiness certainly paired well with the bird.</li>
<li>Charred cucumber was light and bright, but with a smidge of smoke.</li>
<li>A small portion of <em>jeon</em> showed off the vegetal crunch of cauliflower, and was tarted up by micro-celery and a sliver of pickled onion.</li>
<li>Cherry tomato was joined by gochujang and watercress, making for a tart, zingy, minty bite.</li>
<li>Soy-pickled shiitake ate supple and juicy, with a sweet-savoriness that was well-matched by the nuttiness of sesame seeds.</li>
<li>A wrapper-less, familiar-tasting duck dumpling was crowned with pickled chayote.</li>
<li>Crisp-fried lotus root had a sweet-and-sour sort of flavor profile, and was topped with scallion.
<li>Thin slices of mild pickled radish were layered atop a floppy buckwheat base.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03104.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sujeonggwa"><br>
<strong>6: Sujeonggwa</strong><br>
My first dessert was a thoroughly reimagined version of a traditional Korean cinnamon punch. I got all the sweet-n-spicy flavors I was looking for, but juxtaposed seamlessly with the juicy sweetness of both pear sorbet and diced pear.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03112.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Organic Sejak"><br>
Along with dessert, I enjoyed some <strong>Organic Sejak [$16]</strong>. The green tea was super grassy up front, with a bit of roast, while a fruitiness crept in later.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03130.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Brown Butter Ice Cream"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231130-Jua/DSC03124.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Goguma Juak"><br>
<strong>7: Goguma Juak</strong><br>
A sweet potato-enriched, glazed rice flour fritter had a delightful chew, along with an appropriately autumnal sweetness. The "doughnut" matched flawlessly with that brown butter ice cream, which boasted a polished sort of richness and a nearly semifreddo-like texture, along with some crispy bits thrown in for good measure.
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The kitchen delivered a pretty stellar dinner tonight, with really no misses, and provided further evidence that New York City is undoubtedly the epicenter of contemporary Korean cuisine (outside of Korea proper). The cooking had that creativity and modernity I was looking for, but was still familiar, still approachable, while the food also set itself apart through the thoughtful use of that wood-fired grill. Jua is still a relative newcomer, but I envision big things for Kim and his team in the years to come.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-69883098378076357792023-11-29T17:05:00.000-08:002024-01-20T14:23:21.557-08:00Trouble Bird (Washington, DC)<b><i>Trouble Bird Bar<br>
1346 4th St SE, Washington, DC 20003<br>
<a href="http://www.troublebirddc.com" target="_blank">www.troublebirddc.com</a><br>
Wed 11/29/2023, 05:05p-07:35p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/20231129_170543+20231129_170541+20231129_170539+20231129_170537+20231129_170535+20231129_170533.jpg" width="910" height="400" border="3" alt="Trouble Bird Exterior">
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The last time I visited DC, I enjoyed a fantastic meal at Michael Rafidi's <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/07/albi-washington-dc.html" target="_blank">Albi</a> in Navy Yard. Walking there, I had noticed a cocktail bar a couple doors down, also situated in the Guild apartment complex, and decided to give the place a try on this latest trip to the District. Opened on February 28th this year, Trouble Bird takes over the former home of Brent Kroll's Maxwell Park, a wine bar that shuttered in late 2022 (the original outpost in Shaw remains open). Following the closure, Kroll still had the space, so he partnered up with barmen Andrew Hurn and Justin Cara-Donna to launch a new concept here. The two both worked at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2017/10/columbia-room-washington-dc.html" target="_blank">Columbia Room</a>, quickly became friends, and later bartended at Silver Lyan together (Hurn was also at The Green Zone in between) before leaving to launch Trouble Bird.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/20231129_170625+20231129_170623+20231129_170622+20231129_170619+20231129_170617.jpg" width="1130" height="248" border="3" alt="Trouble Bird Interior"><br>
Inside, the same basic layout from the Maxwell Park days remains, though the decor has been redone to reflect a somewhat more whimsical aesthetic.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/TroubleBirdMenu11-29_1l.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/TroubleBirdMenu11-29_1.png" width="91" height="300" border="3" alt="Trouble Bird Menu Cover"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/TroubleBirdMenu11-29_2l.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/TroubleBirdMenu11-29_2.png" width="91" height="300" border="3" alt="Trouble Bird Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/TroubleBirdMenu11-29_3l.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/TroubleBirdMenu11-29_3.png" width="91" height="300" border="3" alt="Trouble Bird Beer & Wine List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/TroubleBirdMenu11-29_4l.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/TroubleBirdMenu11-29_4.png" width="91" height="300" border="3" alt="Trouble Bird Food Menu"></a><br>
And here we see the menu. Inspired takes on tried-and-true cocktails are joined by a smattering of beer and wine, as well as a small selection of bar food. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/DSC03002.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Everything Bagel Sazerac"><br>
<strong>Everything Bagel Sazerac [$16.00]</strong> | Pierre Ferrand 1840, Rittenhouse, Sesame-Aquavit, Chive Gomme, Poppy Seeds, Peychaud's, Umami<br>
If we're talking about bagels, my propensity is generally for the "everything" variety, hence my first cocktail choice. It was a tasty rendition of a Sazerac, with the right herby, spicy, and boozy notes, though the bagel seasoning was subtler than I was expecting.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/DSC03010.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Pop-Eye & Sesame"><br>
I was then allowed to taste some of the drink's ingredients individually, which were of course much more discernable.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/DSC03012.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Amaretto Sour"><br>
<strong>Amaretto Sour [$16.00]</strong> | Don Julio Blanco, Double Almond, Salted Apple, Lemon, Absinthe, Egg White<br>
Next came this smart, easy-going riff on the classic sour cocktail, a rich, fruity, creamy concoction that actually reminded me a bit of a Creamsicle.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/DSC03004.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Pimento Cheese"><br>
<strong>Pimento Cheese [$11.00]</strong> | Cheddar, Chili Crisp, Piquillo Pepper, Kettle Chips<br>
I couldn't resist the pimiento cheese, and it was a solid rendition of the Southern spread, with a nice hint of heat. An apt pairing with those salty potato chips.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/DSC03014.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sawada Punch"><br>
<strong>Sawada Punch [$15.00]</strong> | Don Q Cristal, Espresso, Matcha, Vanilla-Miso, Cocoa Puff Whey<br>
I was pretty fond of this punch as well, inspired by Sawada Coffee over in Chicago. Citric and nutty on the nose, the cocktail showed off plenty of aromatic coffee, commixed with caramel-like notes, a touch of earth, and a smidge of green tea.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/DSC03008.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Smoked Trout Dip"><br>
<strong>Smoked Trout Dip [$13.00]</strong> | Cornichon, Mustard, Kettle Chips<br>
The trout dip was calling my name, and didn't disappoint. I got a toothsome marriage of smoke and brine, offset by the tang of pickles and mustard, and again, the chips fit the bill nicely.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/DSC03020.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Morning Glory Colada"><br>
<strong>Morning Glory Colada [$17.00]</strong> | Toki Whisky, Banana, Sour Coconut H2O, Absinthe, Colada Foam<br>
The decidedly tropical-leaning cocktail married banana and coconut in a seamless manner, accented by hints of absinthe, and I was quite the fan of that fluffy foam, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/DSC03018.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Chili Dog + Meats & Foods Halfsmoke"><br>
<strong>Chili Dog – Meats & Foods Halfsmoke [$12.00]</strong> | Mustard, Onion, Chili, Cheddar<br>
Of the various hot dog options, I went with the chili version, and I think I made a good decision. Composed of beef and pork, the sausage itself had a great snap and a more-assertive-than-usual taste that took well to the chili, all while the onion provided a much-needed zestiness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231129-TroubleBird/DSC03022.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Flapjack O.F."><br>
<strong>Flapjack O.F. [$15.00]</strong> | Wild Turkey 101, Banhez Mezcal, Brown Butter, Robust Maple, Buckwheat Bitters<br>
Fittingly, my final cocktail was the heftiest of the bunch. This one smelled of citrus and caramel, and taking a sip, I got loads of rich brown butter and maple all over the place, offset by spice, bitters, and a healthy dosing of alcoholic heat.
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Trouble Bird hit the spot, and was pretty much just what I was looking for, with drinks that were fun and creative, yet still recognizable, served in a semi-understated environment. This is a neighborhood-y sort of cocktail bar, but one that's interesting enough to make it a bit of a destination as well.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-24412383879978164522023-11-28T18:50:00.000-08:002024-01-17T08:35:42.817-08:00Oyster Oyster (Washington, DC)<b><i>Oyster Oyster Restaurant<br>
1440 8th St NW, Washington, DC 20001<br>
<a href="http://www.oysteroysterdc.com" target="_blank">www.oysteroysterdc.com</a><br>
Tue 11/28/2023, 06:50p-09:10p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02998+DSC02996+DSC02994.jpg" width="1130" height="333" border="3" alt="Oyster Oyster Exterior">
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Oyster Oyster had been on my DC "to-eat" list for a couple years now, but the place had always been a tough reservation to snag given that it generally books up at least a month out. Fortunately, on my latest business trip to the District, I was able to land a ressie through a cancelation. Named after the mushroom and the bivalve, Oyster Oyster is a plant-focused eatery that serves a vegetarian menu that can be made vegan or, more interestingly, "oystertarian." Oysters are permitted given their sustainable role in the local ecosystem, and the fact that they apparently don't have brains and thus don't feel pain. The partners here are Chef Rob Rubba and Max Kuller, both of whom have been around the DC dining scene for quite a while.
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<u><em>About the Chef</em></u>: Robert Hal Rubba Jr was born in April 1982, and grew up in Northfield in southern New Jersey. He got interested in food at an early age, but didn't seriously consider a culinary career until later on. In order to pay for his studio while attending college for fine arts in the early 2000s, he got a summer job working in the pastry department at Mohegan Sun, a hotel/casino in Uncasville, Connecticut where his uncle was a chef. He quickly fell in love with the craft, dropped out of art school, enrolled in culinary school, and dropped out of culinary school. He then switched over to the savory side of things and, in 2005, started working at Todd English's Tuscany, which was also conveniently located at Mohegan Sun. In 2006, Rubba moved to New York and joined the team at Gordon Ramsay at The London, but relocated to Las Vegas the following year.
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He cooked at Restaurant/<a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2009/06/bar-charlie-las-vegas-nv.htm" target="_blank">Bar Charlie</a>, then transitioned to <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2019/08/restaurant-guy-savoy-las-vegas-nv-4.html" target="_blank">Guy Savoy</a>, where he stayed until 2009. From there, he went to Chicago for a chef de partie gig at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2009/05/l2o-chicago-il.htm" target="_blank">L2O</a>, where he helped Laurent Gras achieve three Michelin stars. Rubba left in 2010 to become CdC at Chizakaya, an izakaya concept opened up by Harold Jurado, another <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2009/05/charlie-trotters-chicago-il.htm" target="_blank">Charlie Trotter</a> alum. His post there was short-lived, though, and by 2011, the Chef was back in NYC, where he launched the pork-focused CrossBar for his old boss, Todd English. However, he soon decamped to open Mihoko's 21 Grams; the place debuted in April 2012, but Rubba was already out the door by July. He then went to Philadelphia and worked for a few months at the second iteration of Georges Perrier's iconic Le Bec-Fin, but shortly moved down to DC.
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The Chef cooked for a moment at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2014/04/menu-mbk-washington-dc.html" target="_blank">Frederik De Pue</a>'s Azur, which only lasted from April to September 2013. He linked up with Neighborhood Restaurant Group that November, and was brought on board as EC of Tallula, one of the company's properties in Arlington. Tallula, however, closed a year later, and Rubba was made interim chef at Columbia Firehouse in Alexandria. By that time, Rubba and NRG were already working on their next project together, Hazel, which debuted in June 2016 and achieved considerable acclaim. Even so, the Chef began having misgivings about the waste and negative impacts intrinsic to the restaurant industry, and thus, decided to become a vegetarian in late 2017 and focus his efforts on sustainability. He therefore resigned from his role at Hazel in June 2018, shortly after teaming with sommelier Max Kruller (of <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2014/06/estadio-washington-dc.html" target="_blank">Estadio</a> fame) and bartender Adam Bernbach (who left the partnership in January 2021) to open Oyster Oyster.
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After holding a series of pop-ups, the trio signed a lease on a space in Shaw, and had planned to launch the restaurant in late March 2020. The pandemic, obviously, had different plans, and they were thus forced to retool, turning the space into a bagel bar, a pizza joint, and a takeout spot before instituting outdoor dining in spring 2021. Indoor dining followed in June that year, and by October, Oyster Oyster had secured the #1 spot on Tom Sietsema's <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/magazine/interactive/2021/best-restaurants-in-dc-2021/" target="_blank">2021 Fall Dining Guide</a>, while November saw recognition in <em>Esquire</em>'s <a href="https://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/a38254590/best-new-restaurants-in-america-2021/" target="_blank">Best New Restaurants in America</a> list. In March 2022, Oyster Oyster received both a "Best New Restaurant" nomination from James Beard and a <a href="https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/article/michelin-star-revelation/2022-washington-dc-michelin-stars" target="_blank">Michelin star</a>. Rubba landed a spot on <em>Food & Wine</em>'s <a href="https://www.foodandwine.com/food-wine-best-new-chefs-2022-6503303" target="_blank">Best New Chefs</a> list in September last year, while a James Beard "Outstanding Chef" win came just this June.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_185245.jpg" width="550" height="309" border="3" alt="Oyster Oyster Interior"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_185723.jpg" width="550" height="309" border="3" alt="Oyster Oyster Interior"><br>
Oyster Oyster resides at the City Market at O mixed-use development. The roughly 1,000 square-foot space was designed by the team over at <a href="http://www.grizform.com/oyster-oyster" target="_blank">GrizForm Design Architects</a> with sustainability in mind, and has a bit of a diner-style aesthetic. Capacity is reportedly 28. Do note that there was also a so-called "Oyster Garage" next door, which opened in July sporting pinball machines and serving a menu of oysters and pizza. However, it's since been shut down, and is being converted to a private dining room.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_191747+20231128_191748+20231128_191750+20231128_191752+20231128_191753.jpg" width="1130" height="313" border="3" alt="Oyster Oyster Kitchen Counter"><br>
The restaurant also makes use of a kitchen counter, and pictured above is the view from my seat at the end.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02999l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02999.jpg" width="189" height="300" border="3" alt="Oyster Oyster Kitchen Counter Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_185745l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_185745.jpg" width="233" height="300" border="3" alt="Oyster Oyster Wines by the Glass List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_185808l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_185808.jpg" width="233" height="300" border="3" alt="Oyster Oyster Wine List: Sparkling, White"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_185827l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_185827.jpg" width="233" height="300" border="3" alt="Oyster Oyster Wine List: Skin Contact, Red"></a><br>
Tonight's "Harvest" menu at the chef's counter was priced at a pre-paid $125 a head, plus $12.50 tax and $27.50 service; in comparison, a (slightly shorter) meal in the dining room costs $105. Optional wine pairings are available at $85/$70, while a non-alcoholic pairing is $55. In addition, we see the restaurant's beer/cider/wine list, which focuses on low-intervention and local producers. Do note that the menu is apparently printed on recycled paper that's embedded with marigold(?) seeds, and thus can actually be planted. Said menu also ended up being signed by the entire BOH team, which was a nice touch: Robert Rubba, Daniel "Danny" Bravato, Dana Laos, Vincent Ho, Evan Liwerant, Alex Fiszbein, and Salbador Gomez. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_185521.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Hot Towel"><br>
An <em>oshibori</em>-style warm hand towel was provided soon after I sat down, which was a welcomed nicety.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02910.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Welcoming Broth"><br>
<strong>1: Welcoming Broth</strong><br>
I was then presented with a cup of warm broth, one showcasing the zestiness of young ginger up front before leading to the growing woodsiness of shiitake mushroom. This was deeply savory and heartwarming, yet somehow light at the same time, and served as a great welcome given the very chilly whether we'd been having in DC.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02926.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Kyoto Carrots"><br>
<strong>2: Kyoto Carrots</strong> | Smoked Tofu, Sauerkraut, Rye Flatbread<br>
Here we had a decidedly untraditional taco of sorts, one that displayed the sweet, piquant nature of pastrami-roasted carrots and sauerkraut, set against a smoked tofu purée and the herbiness of dill. This was all contained in a supple, floppy rye-caraway seed flatbread "tortilla," making for a rather fun start. I will also note here that the plate utilized in this course was made from recycled wine bottles--just another part of the restaurant's efforts to reduce waste.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02914.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Troddenvale, Special Edition #8, Rosé Crab Apple Cider, VA '21"><br>
To drink, I went for a bottle of the <strong>Troddenvale, Special Edition #8, Rosé Crab Apple Cider, VA '21 [$65]</strong>, made from an equal blend of Dolgo crab apples and White Winter Pearmain apples, pressed in 2021, fermented in neutral French oak, and aged <em>sur lie</em> for five months. The cider showed off a lovely nose filled with funk and florals, with a fruity backing. On the palate, I found this dry and earthy, but with juicy apple flavors adding enough sweetness to the mix. Very tasty overall, and a good match to the food.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02930.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Confit Badger Flame Beets"><br>
<strong>3: Confit Badger Flame Beets</strong> | Sweet Potato XO, Perilla Capers, Kelp<br>
My oyster course was a winner, with the brine of the bivalve really standing up to the sweetness of those beets. I appreciated the freshness imparted by the shiso as well, but my favorite component was that XO sauce, which conveyed both sweetness and a wonderfully nutty depth--it really brought the dish together.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02936.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Koji Marinated Kohlrabi"><br>
<strong>4: Koji Marinated Kohlrabi</strong> | Foraged Mushrooms, Cauliflower, Chervil<br>
This next dish was another highlight, and featured kohlrabi marinated overnight in <em>koji</em>, roasted for caramelization, then slow-poached in a broth made from kohlrabi scraps. The veggie was paired with puréed cauliflower as well as a medley of roasted mushrooms (lion's mane, blue oyster, black king trumpet, pioppini, chestnut). This all made for a super cozy, comforting course with a bevy of buttery, bitter, nutty, and savory flavors all working in harmony.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02920.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Oyster Oyster Candle"><br>
Discarded oyster shells are turned into candles, and I believe even the wax is made from used cooking oil.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02934.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Badger Flame Beet Bread"><br>
<strong>5: Badger Flame Beet Bread</strong> | Marigold "Butter"<br>
Along with the kohlrabi came the bread, which had this delightful crustiness to it, while its crumb was properly tender, with a subtle, earthy bitterness thanks to the use of juiced beet scraps for dough hydration. The butter was also commendable. Made from sunflower seeds and marigold flowers, it had a gratifyingly thick consistency, with a smoky, nutty, almost "cheesy" taste that I reveled in.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02952.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Potato"><br>
<strong>6: Potato</strong> | Truffle, Terra-Cotta, Vegetable Reduction<br>
Celery root noodles were spot-on texturally, and were paired with a creamy, nearly cheesy "terra-cotta" made from pumpkin seeds. I was a big fan of the salt and crunch provided by the fried potato bits, while a rich, demi-glace-ish veggie reduction made from carrot/onion scraps (caramelized, then cooked down with red wine, garlic, and herbs) helped bind everything together. However, what struck me the most here was that North Carolina truffle, which had apparently been in work for 30 years. The shavings had this super pungent, almost lactic funk that I loved, which served as the perfect exclamation point to the dish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02960.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Stuffed Cabbage"><br>
<strong>7: Stuffed Cabbage</strong> | Koginut Squash, Cypress Rice, Sauce of Seeds<br>
My final savory course was a two-parter. In the front was Savoy cabbage, stuffed with a sticky, super nutty, aromatic rice that I was pretty enamored with, along with braised greens. I also had a subtly sweet semicylinder of roasted squash, topped with a wonderfully nutty, chocolate-y, mole-like sauce based on sesame and pumpkin seeds. Meanwhile, garnishing both parts were matsutake mushrooms, which were as spicy and "wild" tasting as I was hoping for.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_201648l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/20231128_201648.jpg" width="124" height="300" border="3" alt="Oyster Oyster After Dinner Drink List"></a><br>
I requested a list of after-dinner beverages to pair with dessert below. Click for a larger version.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02968.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Orchid Cellars, 'Archer', Mead, Middletown, MD, NV"><br>
Since I was in the mood for something different, I choose the <strong>Orchid Cellars, "Archer", Mead, Middletown, MD, NV [$16]</strong>, a honey-lemon wine fermented with cinnamon, clove, and juniper, then aged 18 months. The metheglin demonstrated a minty, fruity bouquet with an almost amaro-like character. Taste-wise, I got heady notes of cacao and bittersweet spices, all layered over a honeyed backbone.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02966.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Paw Paw Tart"><br>
<strong>8: Paw Paw Tart</strong><br>
I feel that pawpaw is an underutilized native ingredient, so I was happy to see it on the menu tonight. Combined with bitter lemon vinegar and crème anglaise, the fruit had this tropical, yet earthy quality that I really enjoyed, and which married easily with that crispy, flaky buckwheat shell.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02976.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Apple"><br>
<strong>9: Apple</strong> | Apple Cake, Hickory Nut Mousse, Buckwheat<br>
My second dessert was very apropos for the season. I was impressed by its caramel-like richness and how the juiciness of Pink Lady apple was presented. Just as important was that nutty mousse made from foraged hickory nuts, while a drizzle of grassy fig leaf oil and a sprinkling of crispy candied buckwheat completed the package.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02978.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Loew Vineyards, 'Apples & Honey', Semi-Sweet Wine, Mt. Airy, MD, NV"><br>
I was then provided a complimentary pour of the <strong>Loew Vineyards, "Apples & Honey", Cyser, Mt. Airy, MD, NV</strong>, made from a blend of apples and both wildflower and clover honey. The bouquet here was fresh and sweet, and actually reminded me of apple pie. Taste-wise, I found this generally easy-going, with tart fruit supported by an undercurrent of blue cheese-like earthiness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231128-OysterOyster/DSC02984.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Shiitake Chip Cookie"><br>
<strong>10: Shiitake Chip Cookie</strong><br>
Last up was a whimsical bite that married your classic cookie flavors with some unexpectedly woodsy, nutty nuances.
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Rubba and his team delivered a strong meal tonight, and I can see why so many people like this place. The cuisine was inventive and intentional, invigorating and imaginative, and I definitely got that sense of sustainability that's part of Oyster Oyster's mission. There's a real sense of confidence in the cooking, and not once did I miss the meat. This is vegetarian food that shouldn't leave the meat-eaters wanting.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-51239589053387554302023-11-27T21:00:00.000-08:002024-01-13T01:13:10.672-08:0071Above (Los Angeles, CA) [2]<b><i>71 Above Restaurant at US Bank Tower<br>
633 W 5th St, Los Angeles, CA 90071<br>
213-712-2683<br>
<a href="http://www.71above.com" target="_blank">www.71above.com</a><br>
Mon 11/27/2023, 09:00p-11:35p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02786+DSC02788+DSC02790+DSC02792+DSC02794.jpg" width="1130" height="325" border="3" alt="71Above View">
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I last posted about <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2016/09/71above-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">71Above</a> in September 2016, shortly after it opened. I recently found myself back here, and figured that it's high time that I filed another dining report on the place. You might recall that the restaurant opened with <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2021/01/nueva-marina-del-rey-ca.html" target="_blank">Vartan Abgaryan</a> leading the charge. However, he stepped down from his post in February 2019, and thus, the man running the show these days is Executive Chef Javier Lopez, who's actually a longtime associate of Abgaryan's.
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<u><em>About the Chef</em></u>: Javi López got interested in cooking at an early age, often helping his mom make dinner at home. He ended up attending culinary school, and then apprenticed at the Jonathan Club. Following, he secured a position at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2010/12/joes-restaurant-los-angeles-ca-2.html" target="_blank">Joe's</a> in Venice, and later moved over to <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2009/02/xiv-los-angeles-ca-2.htm" target="_blank">XIV</a>, <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2017/12/cal-mare-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Michael Mina</a>'s build-your-own-tasting menu spot near West Hollywood. In July 2011, Lopez became sous at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2010/09/test-kitchen-los-angeles-ca-6.html" target="_blank">Alex Reznik</a>'s La Seine in Beverly Hills. It was during this time where he met Reznik's friend Vartan Abgaryan, who convinced Lopez to join him at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel in March 2012. However, Abgaryan soon decamped to take over the kitchen at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2012/02/cliffs-edge-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Cliff's Edge</a>, and again, Lopez followed at the start of 2014, becoming CdC there. The two both left the Silver Lake restaurant in the autumn of 2015 to start work on 71Above, which debuted in July the following year.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/20231127_211343l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/20231127_211343.jpg" width="350" height="300" border="3" alt="71Above Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/20231127_211032l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/20231127_211032.jpg" width="257" height="300" border="3" alt="71Above Cocktail List"></a><br>
71Above's menu is a three-course prix fixe priced at $98 a head (plus 18% service), with the wine pairing tacking on an extra $56. In addition, you get the option of supplementing with extra courses if you desire. Also shown above is the cocktail/beer list, while the surprisingly impressive wine list (still curated by Catherine Morel) can be viewed <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/71Above Wine List JUNE 2023 (1).pdf" target="_blank">here</a>. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02810.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mushroom Dashi Broth"><br>
Amuse bouche duties were handled by this smoky, deeply savory mushroom dashi broth, which was perked up by the zippiness of charred scallion oil and chives. A cozy and heartwarming opener that was appropriate for the chilly weather we've been having.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02800.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Blini, Egg Yolk Jam, Chives"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02798.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Caviar Service"><br>
<strong>Caviar Service [$81.00]</strong> | Kaluga, 28 Grams, Blini, Egg Yolk Jam, Chives<br>
Kaluga caviar ate sticky and nutty, with a persistent, refined brine, and unsurprisingly, paired like clockwork with those fluffy potato blinis. You couldn't really go wrong with the chives or scallion emulsion, but my favorite accoutrement was that egg yolk jam, which had this sweetness that really complemented the roe.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02864.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Chilled Asparagus"><br>
<strong>1a: Chilled Asparagus</strong> | Citrus Sabayon, Lemon-Miso Vinaigrette, Pistachio Crumble, White Balsamic Gel<br>
Bright, bitter slivers of asparagus were matched by a bevy of sweet, citrusy notes while the nutty bits of pistachio provided further interest.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02870.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Yellowfin Crudo"><br>
<strong>1b: Yellowfin Crudo</strong> | Tomato Vinaigrette, White Soy, Cucumber, Citrus, Finger Lime<br>
Yellowfin arrived with a surprisingly potent kick of umami, I'm assuming courtesy of the soy. Tart, juicy cherry tomatoes offered up some contrast, and I liked the herby accent from the dill, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02808.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="J-M Sélèque Extra Brut Soliste 1er Cru, Champagne, France 2014"><br>
To drink, I opted for the <strong>J-M Sélèque Extra Brut <em>Soliste</em> 1er Cru, Champagne, France 2014 [$188]</strong>, a relatively uncommon bottling made from Pinot Meunier. The wine had a lovely nose filled with sweet, buttery brioche and peach--think bread with stone fruit preserves. Taking a sip, I found the sparkler superbly balanced and easy to drink, with a healthy dosing of orchard fruit joined by yeasty, toasty notes and just enough minerality. I enjoyed this quite a bit more than I was expecting to.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02882.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Farm Salad"><br>
<strong>1c: Farm Salad [$29.00]</strong> | Lettuces, Market Vegetables, Seeds, Goat Cheese, Citrus Vinaigrette<br>
The requisite salad came together nicely. I appreciated the interplay between all the nutty, bitter, and fruity flavors here, tied together by a kumquat-boosted vinaigrette. The juicy, semi-sweet, salted-roasted beets made pretty good sense, too, while just as important was the creamy chèvre, which imparted a certain heft to the dish. Nice crunch from that cracker, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02850.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Grilled Octopus"><br>
<strong>1d: Grilled Octopus [$29.00]</strong> | Smoked Paprika, Morita Chili, Fingerling Potatoes, Celery, Lemon<br>
The octo was a toucher chewier than I'd prefer, but was nonetheless still rather enjoyable. The pungency of that smoked paprika emulsion paired seamlessly, and I was a fan of those hearty potatoes as well. However, the tang of the pickled celery was a bit overpowering, so I could've used less of it on the plate.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02886.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Ōra King Salmon"><br>
<strong>2a: Ōra King Salmon</strong> | Fish Fumet, Tomatillo, Epazote, Lime, Avocado, Shelling Beans, Chochoyotes<br>
Salmon sported a pleasingly rare cook (though I wouldn't have minded it even rarer), and was taken up a notch by the headiness of the fumet. The beans imparted a welcomed weightiness, while all that greenery served as a counterpoint to the fish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02894.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="A5+ Japanese Wagyu – Filet Mignon, 6oz"><br>
<strong>2b: A5+ Japanese Wagyu – Filet Mignon, 6oz [$110.00]</strong> | Charred Gai Lan, Black Garlic, Peanut, Lime, Coriander Vinaigrette<br>
A well-seared Wagyu tenderloin was luxurious without being overtly decadent. The bitterness of the kai-lan worked to offset the meat, and I didn't mind the peanuts, either. My concern here was with the black garlic, which was too intense by my reckoning.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02904.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Spiced Carrot Granita"><br>
<strong>3a: Spiced Carrot Granita</strong> | Cream Cheese, Raisin, Pineapple, Almond Streusel, Pecan Ice Cream<br>
The creation of Pastry Chef Filiberto Flores (<a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2019/06/yours-truly-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Yours Truly</a>, <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2017/02/wolfdown-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Wolfdown</a>, 71Above), our first dessert was essentially a reimagined carrot cake. It was a fun take on the classic, and I was particularly fond of the streusel.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231127-71Above/DSC02900.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Chai Poached Pears"><br>
<strong>3b: Chai Poached Pears</strong> | Pear Brandy, Walnut, Diplomat Cream, Palmier, Chocolate Chai Ice Cream<br>
The sweet-n-spicy nature of chai tea was well conveyed in this dessert, especially thanks to the ice cream, and I liked the hits of nuttiness present, too. As for my favorite component, it'd have to be that delicate, flaky puff pastry.
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I've always maintained that the food at 71Above is better than it needs to be for a "view" restaurant, and based on tonight's meal, that much still holds true under Lopez's leadership, a few gripes notwithstanding. This place is a pretty important Downtown dining spot by my estimation, and I'll probably make my way back here eventually.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-14189719395255417602023-11-11T18:20:00.000-08:002024-01-09T09:57:02.214-08:00Corteza at Sendero (Los Angeles, CA)<b><i>Corteza at Sendero<br>
900 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90015<br>
213-743-8824<br>
<a href="http://www.senderola.com" target="_blank">www.senderola.com</a><br>
Sat 11/11/2023, 06:20p-09:55p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_215036.jpg" width="225" height="400" border="3" alt="Sendero Entrance Signage"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_205923+20231111_205926.jpg" width="900" height="400" border="3" alt="Corteza at Sendero View">
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My latest birthday dinner brought me to Sendero, a new multi-concept affair that opened on February 23rd at the Ritz-Carlton at LA Live. The restaurant is actually composed of four distinct areas. We were here for Corteza, a seafood-focused Latin-American spot. There's also Leña, an Argentinean-inspired steakhouse, as well as The Agave Library, a sort of chef's table serving a menu paired with agave spirits. Last up is Volante, a kitchen counter-style experience that hasn't opened yet. The man in charge of all this is Kevin Luzande, a familiar name, but one that I haven't heard in a while around these parts.
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<u><em>About the Chef</em></u>: An LA native, Luzande was born in October 1983 to a Filipino-American household, and got interested in food in part due to his family's visits to the Philippines. Following high school graduation in 2001, he attended culinary school, and during this period, started working at the Ritz-Carlton in Marina del Rey. After completing his studies in 2003, he continued on at the hotel until 2006, then moved to Las Vegas the following year for a line cook position at David Burke Modern American Cuisine at The Venetian. He stayed there for a year, but left in March 2008 and came back to Southern California, where he secured an Exec Chef gig at The Kress in Hollywood. In March 2009, Luzande was hired by John Sedlar and transitioned over to <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2011/09/rivera-los-angeles-ca-4.html" target="_blank">Rivera</a>, where he became CdC.
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He then opened sister restaurant <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2013/03/playa-los-angeles-ca-3.html" target="_blank">Playa</a> in February 2011, but the place only lasted about two years, shuttering in March 2013. Shortly before the closure, the Chef took over the kitchen at Buddha's Belly in Santa Monica, but was only there a few months. He soon joined the team at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2014/03/acabar-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">Acabar</a>, and opened the restaurant in July 2013 alongside Octavio Becerra. Acabar ended up folding in April 2015, and following, Luzande left the US and went down to Mexico to run the show (along with Oscar Torres) at Acre Restaurant in San José del Cabo. He decamped in 2018, did some traveling across Central and South America, then stepped away from cooking before being lured back last year by the folks behind Sendero.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_205955+20231111_205953+20231111_205951+20231111_205949.jpg" width="1130" height="316" border="3" alt="Corteza at Sendero Bar"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_205902+20231111_205900+20231111_205858+20231111_205905.jpg" width="1130" height="302" border="3" alt="Corteza at Sendero Lounge"><br>
Sendero takes over the former home <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2010/06/wp24-los-angeles-ca.html" target="_blank">WP24</a>/Nest space on the 24th floor of the hotel, and the space has been reimagined by the team over at <a href="https://www.edgdesign.com" target="_blank">EDG Design</a>. Shown above is the bar/lounge section of Corteza.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_205811+20231111_205814+20231111_205816.jpg" width="1130" height="347" border="3" alt="Corteza at Sendero Dining Room"><br>
And here we see Corteza's dining area.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02768+DSC02770+DSC02772+DSC02774.jpg" width="743" height="400" border="3" alt="The Agave Library at Sendero"><br>
The Agave Library is basically a private dining room.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_205737.jpg" width="735" height="400" border="3" alt="Volante at Sendero"><br>
And this is Volante, a chef's counter type of setup that's yet to open.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_183108l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_183108.jpg" width="400" height="300" border="3" alt="Corteza at Sendro Menu: Pa la Banda"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_183113l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_183113.jpg" width="400" height="300" border="3" alt="Corteza at Sendro Menu: Empanadas, Principales, Dulces"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_182548l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_182548.jpg" width="113" height="300" border="3" alt="Corteza at Sendro Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_182552l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/20231111_182552.jpg" width="113" height="300" border="3" alt="Corteza at Sendro Wines by the Glass & Beer List"></a><br>
Corteza's menu is decidedly pan-Latin American, but with a distinct seafood bent. Also shown here are the restaurant's selection of (rather pricey) cocktails, beers, and wines by the glass. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02546.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Tlayuda Chips, Salsa Macha, Escabeche"><br>
Freebies that hit the table included tlayuda chips, salsa macha, and escabeche-style pickles.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02586.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Arepas"><br>
<strong>Arepas - Colombia [$20.00]</strong> | duck confit / chipotle black bean / cotija / preserved lemon crema<br>
We'll start with the arepas, which were definitely a highlight. I was a big fan of their simultaneously soft yet crisp consistency, as well as how the salty, savory flavors of the duck meshed with the beans, all while that tangy crema completed the package. You'll probably want to get these.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02548.jpg" width="320" height="480" border="3" alt="Palo Santo (Smoking)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02556.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Palo Santo"><br>
<strong>Palo Santo [$26.00]</strong> | bookers unfiltered / carpano antica rosso / cynar amaro / bitters / palo santo smoke<br>
Our first cocktail arrived with some tableside theatrics, and showed off a wonderfully sweet, fragrant, woody smoke commingled with aromas of dark fruits. On the palate, the drink was rich and viscous, its bittersweet qualities combining seamlessly with smoke and boozy heat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02576.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="tostada"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02570.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Queso Gobernador"><br>
<strong>Queso Gobernador - Mexico [$25.00]</strong> | oaxacan string cheese / shrimp / chintextle paste / tostada<br>
Shrimp came out gratifyingly textured and deeply flavored, with a palpable brine, and worked great with the quesillo while the tostada served up a tempering crunch.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02602.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Tiradito"><br>
<strong>Tiradito - Peru [$24.00]</strong> | hokkaido scallops / aji amarillo / gooseberries / pineapple<br>
In this near-monochromatic rendition of tiradito, sweet-n-saline cuts of scallop were paired with tart fruit and an even more piquant ají amarillo sauce.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02616.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Anticuchos"><br>
<strong>Anticuchos - Bolivia [$28.00]</strong> | ribeye skewer / aji panca + garlic rub / potato confit / peanut huacatay salsa<br>
Rib eye was a bit tougher than I'd like, but really delivered in the taste department thanks to its wonderfully heady amalgam of sour, spicy, and savory flavors. Hearty, subtly sweet potatoes made sense as an accompaniment, but my favorite thing here was that nutty, zingy huacatay salsa, which was a superb complement to the beef and which I sort of want on everything now.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02620.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Flor de la Gente"><br>
<strong>Flor de la Gente [$26.00]</strong> | novo fogo cachaca / jamaica syrup / lemon / egg white<br>
This scarlet-tinted cocktail blended floral, fruity, and citric nuances with a bitter edge and the fluffiness of egg white.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02596.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Charred Octopus"><br>
<strong>Charred Octopus - Costa Rica [$24.00]</strong> | pineapple / red fresno salsa / tri citrus<br>
Octo came out chewier than I was hoping for, though the savoriness and salinity I wanted was there, and linked up with the bright, fruity flavors in the dish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02634.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Aguachile Negro"><br>
<strong>Aguachile Negro - Baja, Mexico [$24.00]</strong> | cardinal prawn / yuzu / avocado / nasturtium<br>
Raw shrimp showed off a supple, snappy consistency, their cool, briny nature augmented by a smoky, earthy marinade while the avocado and nasturtium lightened the mood.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02562.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Birds of Paradise"><br>
<strong>Birds of Paradise [$26.00]</strong> | diplomatico rum / plantation pineapple rum / st. germain / guava / lemon<br>
This cocktail was a bit of a crowd-pleaser due to its commingling of tropical notes with a subtle, underlying bitterness that kept things in check.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02640.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Tuna Tostada"><br>
<strong>Tuna Tostada - Ensenada, Mexico [$24.00]</strong> | sea urchin / avocado / salsa macha / pickled pearl onion<br>
Ruby-hued cuts of tuna displayed a refined brine and umami that melded easily with the nutty heat of salsa macha, and I appreciated the contrast offered up by the creamy avocado and all the pickle-y bits. However, I wasn't sure if the uni really added all that much here.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02670.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="nixtamal tortillas"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02672.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="glazed root vegetables"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02678.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="salsa molcajete (And Accompaniments)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02674.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Barbacoa"><br>
<strong>Barbacoa - Mexico [$50.00]</strong> | short rib / nixtamal tortillas / glazed root vegetables / salsa molcajete<br>
Corteza's take on barbacoa delivered with its satisfyingly tender texture and delectably dark-toned tastes. Though delish alone, the beef really sang when wrapped up in one of those floppy tortillas with some salsa verde, microgreens, and pickled red onion. I quite liked those homey root veggies on the side, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02666.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="OG Crusher"><br>
<strong>OG Crusher [$26.00]</strong> | don julio blanco / nixta corn licor / pineapple / tepache<br>
This next cocktail demonstrated a cacao-like characteristics along with plenty of pineapple, all juxtaposed against some bitter, minty elements and that eggy foam.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02712.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Empanadas Tucumanas"><br>
<strong>Empanadas Tucumanas - Argentina [$19.00 × 2]</strong> | prime beef / boiled egg / castelvetrano olive / chimichurri / criolla<br>
The empanadas were a must-try, and didn't disappoint. I reveled in the beef's mouthwatering spicing, and appreciated the texture of the pastry as well. Accoutrements, meanwhile, included a tangy salsa criolla and an agreeably oily, herby chimichurri.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02690.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Toasted Bread"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02688.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="7 Seas Cataplana"><br>
<strong>7 Seas Cataplana - Central America [$85.00]</strong> | chorizo broth / littleneck clams / loup de mer / shrimp / octopus / serves 2<br>
A seafood stew featured a rich, salty, almost bisque-liked broth infused with a smidge of heat. The liquid was pretty scrumptious, and did a nice job intensifying the various mariscos present, though I will say that the shrimp were on the overdone side. I had no complaints with that smoky, crusty bread on the side.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02658.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Aloe Frozeca"><br>
<strong>Aloe Frozeca [$26.00]</strong> | grey goose / chareau aloe / lemon / sparkling rose / campari sorbet<br>
Our penultimate cocktail was super floral, but possessed a countering touch of astringency and some mintiness from the Chareau.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02714.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Empanadas Hongos"><br>
<strong>Empanadas Hongos - Argentina [$18.00 × 2]</strong> | hen of the woods mushroom / bell pepper / garlic / chimichurri / criolla<br>
The mushroom empanadas were also winners, and I thoroughly enjoyed how their woodsiness married with the two condiments.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02700.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="nixtamal tortillas"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02704.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="soy onion & salsa verde (And Accompaniments)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02696.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Aged Snapper Zarandeado"><br>
<strong>Aged Snapper Zarandeado - Nayarit, Mexico [$72.00]</strong> | chili paste / soy onion / salsa verde / nixtamal tortillas<br>
Luzande's take on pescado zarandeado was another highlight. The snapper was properly juicy and a joy texturally, while its seasoning and spice were also spot-on. I took great pleasure in constructing my own tacos using the fish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02708.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Flourish"><br>
<strong>Flourish [$26.00]</strong> | casa migos reposado / aperol / orgeat / citrus<br>
The evening's final cocktail combined fruity, spicy, and prickly flavors in an effective manner, though somehow, I managed to taste Lucky Charms marshmallows in the drink.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02752.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Calabaza Chocoflan"><br>
<strong>Calabaza Chocoflan - Mexico [$19.00]</strong> | chocolate sponge / pumpkin custard / cinnamon ganache / pepitas<br>
It was now time for dessert, the responsibility of Pastry Chef Francois Behuet (<a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2022/02/merois-west-hollywood-ca.html" target="_blank">Pendry WeHo</a>, Bottega Louie). This first one was appropriate for the season, with its sweet spices and pumpkin flavors, accented by an almost mole-like nuttiness that worked for me.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02736.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Dia de los Muertos"><br>
<strong>Dia de los Muertos - Central America [$19.00]</strong> | cocoa crumble / pepita brittle / milk chocolate mousse / passionfruit<br>
This Day of the Dead-inspired dessert brought loads of tropical passion fruit right up front, offset by some delightfully crunchy, chocolate-y, nutty bits.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231111-CortezaAtSendero/DSC02746.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Torta de Mil Hojas"><br>
<strong>Torta de Mil Hojas - Chile [$18.00]</strong> | puff pastry / pastry cream 'madame' / caramelized apples / toasted almond<br>
Last up was the "thousand layers cake," with its pleasingly autumnal, apple-forward flavors, deftly accented by toasted almonds. What was most impressive, though, was the thin, delicate, shattery nature of the pastry. A table favorite, and a delicious conclusion to the meal
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Kevin Luzande is someone that I feel I encountered fairly often back in the early 2010s, but after he left the Southland, I'd always wondered what happened to him. Thus, it's heartening to see him back in action. Despite a couple quibbles, we were generally pleased with the food tonight, which sort of reminded me of what the Chef was putting out back in the Playa days, but gutsier and more diverse. This place is a welcomed addition to the Downtown dining scene, and I wouldn't be surprised if I eventually return to give Leña a shot.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-24016059879913304302023-11-05T19:45:00.000-08:002024-01-05T12:37:27.967-08:00The Craftsman 1904 (Anaheim, CA)<b><i>The Craftsman 1904<br>
549 S Anaheim Blvd, Anaheim, CA 92805<br>
657-201-3717<br>
<a href="http://www.instagram.com/craftsman1904/" target="_blank">www.instagram.com/craftsman1904/</a><br>
Sun 11/05/2023, 07:45p-10:15p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02534+DSC02532+DSC02536.jpg" width="1130" height="322" border="3" alt="The Craftsman 1904 Exterior">
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Given that I was generally a fan of the brewery's beers, I was bummed about the closure of <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2021/09/modern-times-leisuretown-anaheim-ca.html" target="_blank">Modern Times Leisuretown</a> last October. After the shutter, I was very curious about what would happen with the sprawling space, especially given what a pain the place was to build out. Well, I found out earlier this year, when it was announced that the people behind the Smoke & Fire mini-chain, in concert with brewer Brad Kominek, would be taking over the site.
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The Smoke & Fire group is led by principals Isaias Hernandez and Josh Bentrem. Their burgeoning restaurant empire started back in May 2020 with the opening of Smoke & Fire Social Eatery in La Habra, a casual spot focused on regional American comfort food. Its success resulted in the debut of three other locations in Paramount (March 2021), Pomona (June 2021), and Riverside (May 2022). The partners then branched out with Craft by Smoke & Fire, a BBQ-focused concept first launched in Anaheim in October 2021. It was also a smashing success, and has since given birth to outposts in Arcadia (April 2022), Pasadena (June 2022), and Downtown LA (November 2023).
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In any case, the bulk of the old Leisuretown property has been converted to Villains Brewing Company, while the former Modern Times Cafe has been transformed into The Craftsman. Grand-opened on September 15th, the restaurant is set in an early 1900s Craftsman home, and represents Hernandez and Bentrem's highest-end offering to date, one that serves as a sort of "passion project" for the team.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/20231105_194801+20231105_194759+20231105_194757+20231105_194755+20231105_194754.jpg" width="732" height="400" border="3" alt="The Craftsman 1904 Lounge"><br>
The staff seemed to have an issue locating my reservation (probably because I made it by phone prior to the restaurant's Resy account going live), so I was asked to take a seat near the entrance while they figured things out. Pictured above is the bar/lounge area, which I believe is meant for walk-in guests.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02396.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Weapon of Choice"><br>
<strong>Weapon of Choice</strong> | Nikka Days Whiskey, Sake, Umeshu<br>
A small welcome cocktail was served during the wait, and did an admirable job combining the plummy sweetness of ume liqueur with the trademark characteristics of the Japanese whisky.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/20231105_221205+20231105_221207+20231105_221209+20231105_221211+20231105_221213.jpg" width="643" height="400" border="3" alt="The Craftsman 1904 Main Dining Room"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/20231105_221156+20231105_221153+20231105_221151+20231105_221148+20231105_221145.jpg" width="954" height="400" border="3" alt="The Craftsman 1904 Side Dining Room"><br>
The actual eating happens upstairs. The first photo shows The Craftsman's main dining room, while the second depicts a smaller area located off to the side.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02537l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02537.jpg" width="113" height="300" border="3" alt="The Craftsman 1904 Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02538l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02538.jpg" width="113" height="300" border="3" alt="The Craftsman 1904 Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02539l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02539.jpg" width="113" height="300" border="3" alt="The Craftsman 1904 Wine List"></a><br>
Here we see The Craftsman's $110 eight-course tasting menu, as well as the restaurant's cocktail list--created by Jarred Dooley (<a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/01/detention-santa-ana-ca-2.html" target="_blank">Detention</a>, <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2021/12/playground-santa-ana-ca-7.html" target="_blank">Playground</a>, <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2011/05/bruery-provisions-orange-ca-2.html" target="_blank">The Bruery Provisions</a>) and Louie Tinoco--and selection of wines. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02410.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Start Me Up"><br>
<strong>1: Start Me Up</strong> | Wild-Caught Pacific Imperial Ahi Tuna, Cold-Smoked Tossed in an Island inspired Poke, Served Over Blue Maize Tortillas<br>
Large-ish cubes of tuna conveyed saline, smoke, and savor in a restrained manner, accented by the pungency of onion, while a dollop of honey at the bottom lent a sugariness that actually worked surprisingly well. The toasted tortilla provided a welcomed crunch, but also broke apart super easily, making the dish rather difficult to eat cleanly.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02419.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Devil's Waitin' (Flaming)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02434.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Devil's Waitin'"><br>
<strong>Devil's Waitin'</strong> | Appleton Estate 8yr Rum, Passionfruit, Grapefruit, Allspice, Lime<br>
The night's first cocktail arrived with some tableside theatrics, and showed off the citrus and sweet spices that I'd expect from something tiki-inspired. My concern here was that the drink seemed overly diluted, watery almost.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02440.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="She's So Cold"><br>
<strong>2: She's So Cold</strong> | Scottish Salmon and Grilled North Atlantic Lobster tossed w/ Roasted Macadamia Nuts and Fried Maui Onions, House-Made Chili Garlic Sauce, Served w/ Lotus Root Chips<br>
The fatty, smoky nature of the salmon was well conveyed, and the fish certainly made sense with the chili-garlic sauce, though I didn't taste much at all from the advertised lobster. The nutty crunch of those macadamias was appreciated, but my favorite thing here were those crumbly bits, which had a super familiar savoriness that actually reminded me of Calbee-style shrimp chips.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02426.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Let The Day Begin"><br>
<strong>Let The Day Begin</strong> | Old Forester Bourbon, Passionfruit, Hops Tincture, Lime<br>
My next cocktail came out looking like beer, and actually tasted like it too due to its mix of subtly spicy, hoppy, and fruity flavors, backed by the kick of that whiskey.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02454.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Waiting on a Friend"><br>
<strong>3: Waiting on a Friend</strong> | Kumiai Oyster Grilled Over A Mesquite Live Fire and topped with Garlic Butter, Freshly Ground Pepper, Oregano, Parmesan Cheese, Pecorino Romano and Beef Tri Tip Chicharron<br>
A lone grilled Kumiai was definitely a standout, and one of the best grilled oysters I've ever eaten. I loved the sheer smokiness present, and how that worked with the dish's cheesy, beefy, and garlicky flavors, all while the brine of the oyster wasn't lost. I wouldn't have minded popping a few more of these guys.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02468.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Salvation"><br>
<strong>Salvation</strong> | Aviation Gin, Dry Vermouth, Sherry, Cilantro Oil, Chili Oil<br>
A riff on a martini managed to be a smart take on the classic cocktail. The nuttiness from the sherry integrated particularly well, and I enjoyed how all the herby, savory nuances meshed with the drink's generally dry character.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02480.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sweet Virginia"><br>
<strong>4: Sweet Virginia</strong> | SRF Short Rib Ravioli slowly braised in a Chianti Wine reduction with herbs, spices, vegetable mirepoix, freshly grated Parmesan cheese, wrapped in egg pasta<br>
Pasta duties were handled by a single, healthily-sized, well-textured raviolo. Flavors were satisfyingly cheesy and mushroom-driven, but the actual beef was a tad overshadowed.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02472.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Beat The Devils Tattoo"><br>
<strong>Beat The Devils Tattoo</strong> | Pineapple Infused Rum, Mint Amaro, Campari Fluff<br>
The fourth cocktail of the night was quite agreeable thanks to its effective marriage of sweetness, spice, bitter amaro, and the softness of that Campari foam.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02500.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Satisfaction"><br>
<strong>5: Satisfaction</strong> | Kurobuta Pork Belly Brined in House and Smoked Low and Slow Over Oak, Topped with a House-Made Ajitsuke Tamago<br>
The pork belly was spot-on, displaying a great mix of lean and fat along with a lovely sear and smoke, as well as just a smidge of sweetness. It melded easily with that beautifully-textured soft-boiled ramen egg, which was a joy to eat just by itself. Another favorite.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02488.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Housemade Vermouth"><br>
A complimentary taster of The Craftsman's housemade vermouth showcased a bracingly citrus-forward, floral, astringent nose. Taking a sip, I found the aromatized wine thick and palate-coating, with a marked bittersweetness and an unabashedly spicy kick.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02506.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Beast of Burden"><br>
<strong>6: Beast of Burden</strong> | SRF Tri Tip Finished on a Bed of Hot Coals Paired with Pureed Parsnips and a Chipotle Cherry BBQ sauce<br>
Tri-tip was cooked more than I'd prefer, but still demonstrated an appealing smoke that worked with the prickly, tangy spice of the barbeque sauce. The parsnips, however, were overly sugary for me, and I would've preferred a simple potato mash.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02524.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="The Knife"><br>
<strong>The Knife</strong> | Blackened Bourbon, Sweet Vermouth, Luxardo Fernet, Luxardo Maraschino<br>
This Manhattan-ish cocktail was to my liking. Think boozy and bitter, with lots of dark fruit countered by a palpable mintiness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02510.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sympathy for the Devil"><br>
<strong>7: Sympathy for the Devil</strong> | SRF Short Rib Paired w/ House-Made Chimichurri and Grilled Oyster Mushrooms<br>
The night's final savory course was another highlight. The beef arrived utterly tender and juicy, with some deeply gratifying flavors and just the right amount of char. The 'shrooms were similarly smoky, and I liked how that zippy chimichurri helped lighten things up.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02530.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Espresso Martini"><br>
To go along with dessert, a miniature espresso martini was provided gratis.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231105-TheCraftsman1904/DSC02522.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Let's Spend the Night Together"><br>
<strong>8: Let's Spend the Night Together</strong> | A Modern Twist on a True American Classic, We Use Rockenwagner Fresh Baguettes To Create A Creamy And Indulgent Cajeta<br>
Closing out the evening was a pretty commendable bread pudding, one that wasn't too heavy, and came loaded with sweet spices and a touch of citrus for contrast.
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Tonight's dinner was enjoyable, albeit a bit rough around the edges, and though some tweaks may be called for, there's still plenty to like about this place, and I certainly appreciated the team's distinctive approach to fine dining. It's pretty ballsy to open a tasting menu-only restaurant in Anaheim, so hopefully they can stick to their guns and keep growing and evolving.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-84286101608805086162023-10-27T15:05:00.000-07:002024-01-01T11:49:05.133-08:00Steak Tasting [2]<b><i>Rib Eye Steak Tasting<br>
Fri 10/27/2023, 03:05p-10:00p</i></b><br>
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Longtime readers may recall that, around a decade ago, some friends and I held a <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2013/05/steak-tasting.html" target="_blank">tasting of strip steaks</a>. Following, we'd talked about having a rematch featuring ribeyes instead, but somehow, it took over 10 years for us to finally make it happen. As before, we bought a selection of steaks from a variety of vendors, which are summarized in the table below, sorted by price:
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<table border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" width="1130">
<tr>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333" width="300"><font color="#cccccc">Steak Name</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333"><font color="#cccccc">Price/lb</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333"><font color="#cccccc">Price</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333"><font color="#cccccc">Weight</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333"><font color="#cccccc">Thickness</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333"><font color="#cccccc">Aging</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333"><font color="#cccccc">Grade</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333"><font color="#cccccc">Notes</font></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Flannery Beef USDA Prime Dry Aged California Reserve Ribeye Steak</td>
<td align="center">$63.20</td>
<td align="center">$79.00</td>
<td align="center">20 oz</td>
<td align="center">2 3/8"</td>
<td align="center">30-day dry aged</td>
<td align="center">Prime</td>
<td align="left">Price does not include $10 shipping</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Pat LaFrieda Meat Purveyors USDA Prime Black Angus Beef Boneless Rib Steak, Center Cut, 30 Days Dry-Aged</td>
<td align="center">$48.04</td>
<td align="center">$60.05</td>
<td align="center">20 oz</td>
<td align="center">1 7/8"</td>
<td align="center">30-day dry-aged</td>
<td align="center">Prime</td>
<td align="left">Price does not include $19.99 shipping</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Beef Palace Butcher Shop Prime Rib Eye</td>
<td align="center">$32.55</td>
<td align="center">$24.41</td>
<td align="center">12 oz</td>
<td align="center">1 1/2"</td>
<td align="center">14-day(?) dry-aged</td>
<td align="center">Prime</td>
<td align="left"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Whole Foods Boneless Beef Ribeye Steak USDA Choice</td>
<td align="center">$21.99</td>
<td align="center">$27.05</td>
<td align="center">19.68 oz</td>
<td align="center">1 3/4"</td>
<td align="center">Unknown</td>
<td align="center">Choice</td>
<td align="left"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Ralphs USDA Prime Boneless Ribeye Steak</td>
<td align="center">$19.99</td>
<td align="center">$30.18</td>
<td align="center">24.16 oz</td>
<td align="center">1 7/8"</td>
<td align="center">Unknown</td>
<td align="center">Prime</td>
<td align="left">$26.99/lb without Ralphs Rewards discount</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Costco Kirkland Signature Beef Ribeye Steak Boneless USDA Prime</td>
<td align="center">$17.49</td>
<td align="center">$24.60</td>
<td align="center">22.5 oz</td>
<td align="center">1 5/8"</td>
<td align="center">Unknown</td>
<td align="center">Prime</td>
<td align="left">Blade tenderized; part of a three-pack</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02390.jpg" width="640" height="360" border="3" alt="Steak Tasting Encryption Key"> <br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02162.jpg" width="360" height="360" border="3" alt="Steak-Letter Assignment"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02164.jpg" width="360" height="360" border="3" alt="Matching Letters to Steaks"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02166.jpg" width="360" height="360" border="3" alt="Assigning Letters to Steaks"><br>
Like last time, we tried to taste the steaks in as impartial a manner as possible, and thus employed the same "encryption" scheme we'd previously utilized. My job was to remove the meats from their packaging, place them on plates, and assign a letter to each one. I then left the area, and the person in charge of cooking the beef came in and, not knowing my letter assignments, secretly designated a number to each letter. Therefore, no one person knew both parts of the "key" necessary to correlate the name of the steak with its number. The two "keys" were only revealed after we'd tasted each steak.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02177.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Seasoning Steak"><br>
During our last tasting, we'd seasoned the meats with both salt and pepper, but this time around, we went with salt only in order to allow for a "purer" expression of the beef.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02198.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Vacuum Sealing Steak"><br>
The steaks were first cooked sous vide, and their plastic pouches were prepared using a <a href="http://www.nesco.com/product/deluxe-vacuum-sealer/" target="_blank">Nesco VS-12 Deluxe Vacuum Sealer</a>. Note that small cuts were made into each plastic bag in order to denote the number assignment above.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02220.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Steaks in Immersion Circulator"><br>
A PolyScience immersion circulator was employed, set at a temperature of 129°F. Cooking commenced at around 4:20pm, and the photo above depicts the steaks shortly afterward.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02194.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Willett Wheated 8 Year Bourbon"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02196.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="2019 Samuel Adams Utopias"><br>
Given that we had quite a while to wait until all the meat was cooked, we enjoyed some booze in the meantime, and up first was the <strong>Willett Wheated 8 Year Bourbon</strong>. The nose on this one was surprisingly muted, but I did get a top layer of herbs, set over notes of caramel and sweet fruits. On the palate, I found sweet, sharp spices commixed with pome fruits, with a distinctly "candied" character overall. I then sampled the <strong>2019 Samuel Adams Utopias</strong>, a now-iconic beer brewed with Vermont maple syrup and aged in a combo of Buffalo Trace bourbon, aquavit, ruby port, Carcavelos, cognac, and Madeira barrels. The ale smelled strongly of dark, raisin'd fruit, cacao, and spicy barrel. Taking I sip, I got more of that dark-toned fruit, joined by chocolate, maple, bittersweetness, spice, and lingering heat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02228.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Steaks in Sous-Vide Machine"><br>
Here we see the water bath about 45 minutes in.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02206.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Douglas Laing Timorous Beastie 24 Year Old Highland Blended Malt Scotch Whisky Sherried Edition"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02208.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Calumet Farm 16 Year Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey"><br>
Next to imbibe was the <strong>Douglas Laing Timorous Beastie 24 Year Old Highland Blended Malt Scotch Whisky Sherried Edition</strong>. Aromas here highlighted "seedy" strawberries, candied fruit, and sweet spices, while taste-wise, I detected more of those strawberries and baking spices, countered by a marked nuttiness and nuances of caramel. This was followed by the <strong>Calumet Farm 16 Year Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey</strong>, which was probably my favorite of the bunch. The bouquet on this one was decidedly herbaceous, almost grassy at first blush, but with a sugary backing of caramel-coated fruit. Meanwhile, flavors demonstrated both rye and sweet spiciness, supported by a "baked goods" sort of character, with accents of oak and herb.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02234.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sous-Vided Steaks"><br>
Given that we were looking for a medium-rare temperature, we targeted a cooking time of two hours. Here we see the steaks near the end of that duration.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02232.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Fortaleza Blanco + Casa Dragones Blanco + G4 Blanco"><br>
Once we were through with the whiskies, we enjoyed a tasting of silver tequilas. Up first was the <strong>Fortaleza Blanco</strong>, with its soft-yet-heady nose of classic agave, joined by vegetal and citric notes. On the palate, I found this <em>plata</em> cool and supple, with an almost rye-like spice working hand in hand with your expected agave flavors. Next came the <strong>Casa Dragones Blanco</strong>, which was altogether quite a different beast. The bouquet here was much sweeter, with a peach-like character and less overt agave, and in terms of taste, I got more long-lingering stone fruit on the mid-palate, commingled with soft, warming spices. Finally, we tried the <strong>G4 Blanco</strong>, which was perhaps the most interesting of the three. Its aromas recalled cacao and peppered meats, and taking a sip, I found the tequila sharp, bracing, and boozy, but with a cool, almost minty quality undergirded by citrus and minerals.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02246.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Cooling Down Steaks"><br>
After being removed from their water bath, the steaks were chilled before being finished on a cast iron skillet, sliced, and served serially in random order. Shown below are my thoughts on each of the entrants.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02144.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Pat LaFrieda Steak (Raw)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02312.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Pat LaFrieda Steak (Sous-Vide'd)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02316.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Pat LaFrieda Steak (In the Pan)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02322.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Pat LaFrieda Steak (Cooked)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02326.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Pat LaFrieda Steak (Sliced)"><br>
<strong>#6 – Pat LaFrieda Meat Purveyors USDA Prime Black Angus Beef Boneless Rib Steak, Center Cut, 30 Days Dry-Aged</strong><br>
We kicked things off with an offering from legendary New Jersey-based meat purveyor Pat LaFrieda, which actually didn't make as strong of a showing as I'd expected. Overall, I found the steak's taste a bit muted for some reason, and I didn't get those deep, beefy, dry-aged flavors I was looking for. Texturally, the center of the cut was denser than expected, while the cap was more tender, and more enjoyable overall.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02226.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="1982 Château Palmer"><br>
The steaks certainly called for some red wine, so we opened up a <strong>1982 Château Palmer</strong>. Initial whiffs from the bottle showed off dark fruits, roasted meats, and mint. In the glass, the nose demonstrated more of that mature, dark-toned fruit combined with a distinct zinginess, a touch of floral, and a smidge of funk. On the palate, think savory and herbaceous, with a surprisingly sweet backbone. As the night progressed, the Bordeaux began displaying dusty leather, earth, and herb on the nose, while its flavors got softer, and highlighted menthol, leather, and dusty, acidic berries. Overall, a well-aged claret that stood up admirably to all the beef we were having.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02148.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Costco Steak (Raw)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02328.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Costco Steak (In the Pan)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02330.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Costco Steak (Cooked)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02332.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Costco Steak (Sliced)"><br>
<strong>#2 – Costco Kirkland Signature Beef Ribeye Steak Boneless USDA Prime</strong><br>
The Costco steaks came in a three-pack, and the most marbled of the trio was selected for this comparison. I started with the eye, and found it tender, juicy, and almost brisket-like. The cap was tougher, but with a richer, fattier flavor profile that went in a nearly "briny" direction.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02241.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mashed Potatoes"><br>
Garlicky mashed potatoes were made with an immersion blender, giving the dish a sticky, gummy sort of consistency.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02160.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Whole Foods Steak (Raw)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02336.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Whole Foods Steak (Sous-Vide'd)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02338.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Whole Foods Steak (In the Pan)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02342.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Whole Foods Steak (Cooked)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02346.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Whole Foods Steak (Sliced)"><br>
<strong>#4 – Whole Foods Boneless Beef Ribeye Steak USDA Choice</strong><br>
Whole Foods was actually the winner last time around, but its performance tonight wasn't quite as strong. The outside of the ribeye had this almost "flaky" consistency, while its taste was surprisingly nutty, with a salty kick. Meanwhile, the inner portion was noticeably firmer, with a more assertive flavor profile.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02224.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="1982 Opus One"><br>
Our second red wine was the <strong>1982 Opus One</strong>, a quintessential Napa Valley Bordeaux blend that we thought would make for a good comparison with the Palmer above. From the bottle, I got aromas of soft, sweet strawberries, with a subdued herbaceousness. In the glass, the bouquet showcased cool berries, cedar, and tobacco, while the palate brought supple tannins, more herbs, and mature fruits. With more time, I found more fruit on the nose, along with leather and a nearly candied underpinning. The wine also became smoother and surprisingly easy-drinking, with a subtle spiciness along with elements of earth and berry. This one had aged quite well, and we generally preferred it to the Palmer.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02154.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Ralphs Steak (Raw)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02350.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Ralphs Steak (Sous-Vide'd)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02352.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Ralphs Steak (In the Pan)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02356.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Ralphs Steak (Cooked)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02358.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Ralphs Steak (Sliced)"><br>
<strong>#3 – Ralphs USDA Prime Boneless Ribeye Steak</strong><br>
The Ralphs steak was a bit unique in that its cap was tougher and chewier than its eye. Taste-wise, it wasn't bad, and was perhaps the butteriest of the bunch.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02310.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Asparagus"><br>
A side of asparagus really took well to a dusting of paprika.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02140.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Beef Palace Steak (Raw)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02360.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Beef Palace Steak (Sous-Vide'd)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02364.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Beef Palace Steak (In the Pan)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02368.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Beef Palace Steak (Cooked)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02370.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Beef Palace Steak (Sliced)"><br>
<strong>#5 – Beef Palace Butcher Shop Prime Rib Eye</strong><br>
This ribeye ended up as my favorite of the six, a conclusion that I came to on just my first bite. I easily found it the most flavorsome, with the steak's dry-aging really coming through in a nutty, just-earthy-enough manner, while texturally, the cut was on point as well.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02152.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Flannery Steak (Raw)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02372.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Flannery Steak (Sous-Vide'd)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02382.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Flannery Steak (In the Pan)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02384.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Flannery Steak (Cooked)"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02386.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Flannery Steak (Sliced)"><br>
<strong>#1 – Flannery Beef USDA Prime Dry Aged California Reserve Ribeye Steak</strong><br>
Our final steak was the priciest of them all, and showed off by far the most dry-aged character. In fact, the rib eye was almost gamy, with a blue cheese-esque funk that we all noticed. No complaints about the texture here, either, with the cap especially possessing a lovely "flake."
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231027-SteakTasting/DSC02212.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Friendly Doughnuts"><br>
Dessert duties were handled by a dozen donuts sourced from Friendly Doughnuts out in Orange.
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With my personal thoughts out of the way, I'll now present the aggregate ratings for all tasters. Shown in the table below are the average (mean) ratings for the six steaks, as well as their resultant rankings.
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<table border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" width="1130">
<tr>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333" width="300"><font color="#cccccc">Steak Name</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333" width="60"><font color="#cccccc">Taste (15 pts)</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333" width="60"><font color="#cccccc">Texture (10 pts)</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333" width="60"><font color="#cccccc">Total (25 pts)</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333" width="60"><font color="#cccccc">Overall Rank</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333" width="60"><font color="#cccccc">Taste Rank</font></td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#333333" width="60"><font color="#cccccc">Texture Rank</font></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Pat LaFrieda Meat Purveyors USDA Prime Black Angus Beef Boneless Rib Steak, Center Cut, 30 Days Dry-Aged</td>
<td align="center">10.3</td>
<td align="center">7.0</td>
<td align="center">17.3</td>
<td align="center">4</td>
<td align="center">4</td>
<td align="center">T3</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Costco Kirkland Signature Beef Ribeye Steak Boneless USDA Prime</td>
<td align="center">10.8</td>
<td align="center">6.8</td>
<td align="center">17.5</td>
<td align="center">3</td>
<td align="center">2</td>
<td align="center">5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Whole Foods Boneless Beef Ribeye Steak USDA Choice</td>
<td align="center">10.0</td>
<td align="center">7.0</td>
<td align="center">17.0</td>
<td align="center">5</td>
<td align="center">5</td>
<td align="center">T3</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Ralphs USDA Prime Boneless Ribeye Steak</td>
<td align="center">8.8</td>
<td align="center">5.8</td>
<td align="center">14.5</td>
<td align="center">6</td>
<td align="center">6</td>
<td align="center">6</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Beef Palace Butcher Shop Prime Rib Eye</td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#66bb66">12.5</td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#66bb66">8.5</td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#66bb66">21.0</td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#66bb66">1</td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#66bb66">1</td>
<td align="center" bgcolor="#66bb66">1</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left">Flannery Beef USDA Prime Dry Aged California Reserve Ribeye Steak</td>
<td align="center">10.5</td>
<td align="center">7.5</td>
<td align="center">18.0</td>
<td align="center">2</td>
<td align="center">3</td>
<td align="center">2</td>
</tr>
</table>
<br>
The winner was the steak that we purchased from <a href="https://www.instagram.com/beef_palace/" target="_blank">Beef Palace</a>, a longstanding (since 1970), old school butcher shop in Huntington Beach. Their rib eye was actually voted #1 by all but one taster, who ranked it #2 behind the Flannery, so it was a clear favorite, and I'm glad to see a local small business perform so well here. Overall though, we were pretty happy with all of the contestants. There were no "bad" steaks in the bunch, and I wouldn't mind eating any of them again (in fact, I took leftovers home to enjoy the next day). Our cooking was a bit more consistent this time, which probably helped with that, and I think aiming for a higher temperature was the right way to go as well. I wonder if there'll ever be a part 3 to this...kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-24275115147885492862023-10-19T17:25:00.000-07:002023-12-27T12:33:01.697-08:00Tempura Matsui (New York, NY)<b><i>Tempura Matsui<br>
222 E 39th St, New York, NY 10016<br>
212-986-8885<br>
<a href="http://www.tempuramatsui.com" target="_blank">www.tempuramatsui.com</a><br>
Thu 10/19/2023, 05:25p-07:30p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_172413+20231019_172410+20231019_172409+20231019_172405.jpg" width="740" height="400" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Exterior">
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I had a stopover in NYC on my way back from my recent visit to England, and thus had time to partake in an early dinner in Manhattan. Given how I often lament the lack of tempura specialist restaurants in the US, I opted to check out Tempura Matsui (天婦羅 まつ井) in Murray Hill. Located on the ground floor of The Nash apartment building, the place opened back in 2015, and is actually the first and only Michelin-starred tempura spot in the country.
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<u><em>A bit of history</em></u>: The story begins with the restaurant's namesake, Masao Matsui, a veteran tempura chef who got his start in the business in 1968, when he was 18. Throughout his career, he'd run a number of tempura joints in Japan, his most recent post being at the tempura bar at Kioi Nadaman, a restaurant at Hotel New Otani in Tokyo. Given his four decades-plus in the industry, he had hung up his hat, but was lured out of retirement at the age of 65 by Hisami Mitsumori, founder of the Ootoya group, a company that runs hundreds of eateries across Japan and other parts of Asia, and which broke into the American market in 2012.
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The Chef was reportedly quite excited about the prospect of being in New York, and thus, Tempura Matsui ended up grand-opening on July 14th, 2015 as the fifth Ootoya outpost in the US, though regrettably, Mitsumori died suddenly shortly after the debut. Just a few weeks later, Matsui was forced to return to Japan due to health reasons, leaving the eatery in the hands of his lieutenant, Shin Kato, another Nadaman alum who'd been cooking since the age of 18. Kato was able to keep things going at a high level, and the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star at the end of September 2015, which has been maintained ever since. Matsui returned to NYC briefly later that year, but his health continued to deteriorate due to cancer, and sadly, he passed away in Japan on February 7th, 2016.
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In May 2016, Kiyoshi Chikano was named head chef of Tempura Matsui, a role he ostensibly shared with Kato, though Kato appeared to have decamped just months later. Boasting over 30 years in the biz, Chikano started his career at a sushi-ya in Hokkaido before making his way to Zakuro in Tokyo, where he learned to run a tempura counter. He relocated to the US to work with Matsui, but recently left the restaurant, within the past year or so I believe. The new head chef is Koichi Endo (b. 1970), who, by the way, is not related to the <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2018/10/tempura-endo-beverly-hills-ca.html" target="_blank">Tempura Endo</a> founder despite their identical names. Endo was also part of the opening team, and was apparently the last person to be trained by Matsui. After a stint at J-Spec Wagyu Dining/Esora Omakase in 2021, he's since returned to take charge here.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_172921.jpg" width="300" height="400" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Hallway"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_172931.jpg" width="533" height="400" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Bar"><br>
Here we see the hallway leading from the entrance, as well as a small bar area, which is apparently used for pre-dinner imbibing.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173149+20231019_173151+20231019_173152.jpg" width="970" height="400" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Bar"><br>
The restaurant offers two tables for four and one table for two, but you'll want to grab a spot at the nine-seater tempura counter.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231026_190600l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231026_190600.jpg" width="395" height="300" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Menu"></a><br>
Though the restaurant used to offer various levels of omakase and à la carte ordering, that appears to no longer be the case, as the $280 "Matsui Omakase Course" was the only option given to me. Click for a larger version.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173352l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173352.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173532l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173532.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Sake List: Daiginjo"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173534l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173534.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Sake List: Junmai"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173450l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173450.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Sake List: Ginjyo, Hot Sake"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173452l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173452.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Shochu & Specialty Sake List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173511l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173511.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Wine List: White, Rose, Sparkling"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173513l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173513.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173516l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173516.jpg" width="126" height="200" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Beer & Beverage List"></a><br>
Beverage choices include cocktails, sake, shochu, wine, and beer. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_173602.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Tempura Matsui Place Setting"><br>
The place setting was about par for the course.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC01976.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="雲丹シューター Uni Shooter"><br>
<strong>1: 雲丹シューター Uni Shooter</strong><br>
My first <em>kobachi</em> (小鉢) course brought creamy tongues of Hokkaido sea urchin, paired with lush quail egg and fatty cuts of tuna belly. At the same time, both the wasabi and the bits of <em>yamaimo</em> kept things in check.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC01984.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="ゆば Yuba"><br>
<strong>2: ゆば Yuba</strong><br>
Tofu skin arrived well-textured, its mild taste meshing easily with the savoriness of salmon roe and the sting of wasabi.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC01988.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="刺身 Sashimi"><br>
<strong>3: 刺身 Sashimi</strong><br>
The requisite sashimi course was up next. I began with the amberjack, a sticky, creamy, subtly-flavored fish that went great with both the wasabi and seaweed. I then moved on to a ruby-hued, classically savory shard of tuna, and ended with a properly fatty cut of toro, which really called for the wasabi.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC01998.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="茶碗蒸し Chawanmushi (Lidded)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02006.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="茶碗蒸し Chawanmushi"><br>
<strong>4: 茶碗蒸し Chawanmushi</strong><br>
For my chawanmushi, I was offered a choice between foie gras or seafood. Though I opted for the former, I actually didn't taste much from the liver. That being said, the dish overall was cozy and apropos for the season, the porcini and snow crab making themselves quite known.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC01968.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Tempura Plate"><br>
It was now time for the parade of tempura to begin. The various pieces mostly arrived on the plate above, sourced from a producer called Kakurin (カク林製陶所), based out of Toki in Gifu Prefecture.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02008.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Tempura Accompaniments"><br>
Accoutrements for my tempura included the compulsory tentsuyu sauce with grated daikon, as well as seaweed salt and lemon. I was instructed to use a particular condiment for each course, which I've noted below in lenticular brackets.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02012.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="海老の頭 Ebi No Atama"><br>
<strong>5: 海老の頭 Ebi No Atama 【Seaweed Salt】</strong><br>
Shrimp heads were wonderfully crispy, with a mouthwatering brine that linked up swimmingly with a dab of salt.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02014.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="車海老 Kuruma Ebi"><br>
<strong>6: 車海老 Kuruma Ebi 【Seaweed Salt and Lemon】</strong><br>
The kuruma shrimp showed off a spot-on snap and sweetness, with said sweetness being drawn out even further by the salt.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/20231019_180602.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Tempura Chefs"><br>
Here we see the chefs at work. That's Koichi Endo on the right, while assisting him was Nima, a native of Nepal who's been at Tempura Matsui since at least the middle of 2016.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02020.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="車海老 Kuruma Ebi"><br>
<strong>7: 車海老 Kuruma Ebi 【Tentsuyu】</strong><br>
A second serving of kuruma prawn was paired with the savory, slightly bitter flavors of the tentsuyu, and the sauce actually seemed to further emphasize the texture of the shrimp.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02022.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="舞茸 Maitake"><br>
<strong>8: 舞茸 Maitake 【Tentsuyu】</strong><br>
Hen-of-the-woods was a joy texturally, its woodsiness melding seamlessly with the tentsuyu's umami notes.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02028.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Rakkyo"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02024.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="キス Kisu"><br>
<strong>9: キス Kisu 【Seaweed Salt, Tentsuyu】</strong><br>
Japanese whiting was presented in two forms. First was the <em>kisu no hone</em> (キスの骨), a fun, crunchy bone cracker to be eaten with the salt. Meanwhile, the meat of the sillago was delicate both in terms of taste and texture, so the savoriness of the tentsuyu certainly made sense. I was also provided a serving of pickled radish (similar to <em>rakkyo</em>), which had a tartness that seemed to bring out the sweetness of the fish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02034.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="ズワイガニ Zuwaigani"><br>
<strong>10: ズワイガニ Zuwaigani 【Seaweed Salt and Lemon】</strong><br>
Shiso-wrapped snow crab was superb texturally, while opposing forces of salt and lemon seemed to somehow draw further attention to the crab's natural sweetness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02038.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="カボチャ Kabocha"><br>
<strong>11: カボチャ Kabocha 【Tentsuyu and Seaweed Salt】</strong><br>
The sugariness of kabocha squash was on proud display here, set off by both the tentsuyu and salt.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02040.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Truffle Salt"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02048.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="ホタテ Hotate"><br>
<strong>12: ホタテ Hotate 【Truffle Salt and Tentsuyu】</strong><br>
Hokkaido scallop arrived with a truffle-infused salt, which had a marked muskiness that managed to complement without overpowering. I enjoyed the scallop's other half with the tentsuyu, which highlighted both its sweetness and meatiness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02056.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="松茸 Matsutake"><br>
<strong>13: 松茸 Matsutake 【Truffle Salt and Seaweed Salt and Sudachi】</strong><br>
Given that we were in the midst of matsutake season, I was hoping to see it on the menu tonight, and I was not disappointed. The mushroom's woodsy spice was well conveyed, as was its satisfyingly chewy consistency. Both the truffle salt and seaweed salt worked with the classic accompaniment of sudachi, but the former stood up better to the citrus.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02060.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="牡蠣の酒蒸し Kaki No Sakamushi"><br>
<strong>14: 牡蠣の酒蒸し Kaki No Sakamushi</strong><br>
A homey dish of sake-steamed oyster, wakame, mustard spinach (<em>komatsuna</em>), and yuzukosho served as a bit of a respite from the tempura.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02066.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="蓮根真丈 Renkon Shinjo"><br>
<strong>15: 蓮根真丈 Renkon Shinjo 【Tentsuyu and Seaweed Salt and Truffle Salt】</strong><br>
The <em>renkon ebi</em> (蓮根海老) perfectly married the crunch of lotus root with the sweet salinity of shrimp. The "sandwich" melded seamlessly with the tentsuyu, while both salts also worked, though the truffle variety was a bit much in this instance.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02070.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="あんこう Anko"><br>
<strong>16a: あんこう Anko 【Momiji Oroshi and Tentsuyu】</strong><br>
Monkfish (on the right) ate meaty and mild, and really opened up when taken with the chili-spiked grated daikon that was provided, as flavors were a bit restrained when eaten with the tentsuyu alone.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02072.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="鮟肝 Ankimo"><br>
<strong>16b: 鮟肝 Ankimo 【Momiji Oroshi and Tentsuyu】</strong><br>
The monkfish liver (on the left) was a definite favorite of mine thanks to its refined combination of earthiness and brine. This one really called for the punchiness of that <em>momiji-oroshi</em>.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02074.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="東京ネギ Tokyo Negi"><br>
<strong>17: 東京ネギ Tokyo Negi</strong><br>
The green onions were another standout, and I loved how their zestiness matched up with the pungency of salted kombu (<em>shio kombu</em>).
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02082.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="穴子 Anago"><br>
<strong>18: 穴子 Anago 【Tentsuyu and Seaweed Salt and Lemon】</strong><br>
The conger eel was a treat, and its mild, sweet salinity was deftly highlighted by the tentsuyu, while the salt and lemon served as more acute accents.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02088.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Hojicha"><br>
The arrival of a hot, roasty cup of hojicha signaled that dinner was winding down.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02100.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="天ばら Tenbara"><br>
<strong>19a: 天ばら Tenbara</strong><br>
My <em>shokuji</em> (食事) course was a winner as well. I was a fan of the rice itself thanks to its texture and "stick," while the tempura'd shrimp was pretty much flawless, and featured a light dusting of truffle salt. I could've easily eaten a much bigger bowl of the stuff.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02102.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="漬物 Tsukemono"><br>
<strong>19b: 漬物 Tsukemono</strong><br>
Also appreciated were these pickles, which offered a sharp contrast to the tempura.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02108.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="味噌汁 Misoshiru"><br>
<strong>19c: 味噌汁 Misoshiru</strong><br>
The obligatory miso soup stood out due to its more assertive flavors and liberal use of both yuba and negi, along with slick bits of mushroom at the bottom.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231019-TempuraMatsui/DSC02110.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="マスクメロン Muskmelon"><br>
<strong>20: マスクメロン Muskmelon</strong><br>
A slice of Japanese melon made for a super sweet, super juicy ending.
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Prior to Tempura Matsui, it'd been a long while since I'd had a proper tempura experience, so I quite appreciated tonight's meal. What struck me the most was the delicacy of the batter here, which managed to enhance the intrinsic qualities of the ingredients utilized without getting in the way. I feel that tempura often doesn't receive the respect it deserves (at least here in the States), but a dinner like this just goes to show why the cuisine warrants more attention. As far as I know, there are only two other restaurants like this in the US--the other two being Secchu Yokota (also in NYC) and the aforementioned Tempura Endo--but hopefully that won't remain the case forever.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-30692040726422928062023-10-18T19:50:00.000-07:002023-12-22T11:22:17.151-08:00The Clove Club (London, United Kingdom)<b><i>The Clove Club Restaurant<br>
Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old St, London EC1V 9LT, United Kingdom<br>
+44 20 7729 6496<br>
<a href="http://www.thecloveclub.com" target="_blank">www.thecloveclub.com</a><br>
Wed 10/18/2023, 07:50p-10:50p</i></b><br>
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<center><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_224903.jpg" width="375" height="500" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Entrance"></center>
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My final meal in England took place at The Clove Club, a rather hip-seeming, contemporary British cuisine spot that I'd been reading good things about. Opened back in 2013 and tracing its roots to a pop-up, the restaurant is situated in Shoreditch Town Hall, a Grade II listed building completed in 1866, and is helmed by Chef Patron Isaac McHale, a native of Scotland.
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<u><em>About the Chef</em></u>: McHale was born in July 1980 in Orkney, but spent most of his childhood in Glasgow. He got interested in food early on after tasting a pakora for the first time, and subsequently taught himself Indian cookery. When he was 14, he began working for a local fishmonger, during which time he looked forward to taking home and preparing product that couldn't be sold. This then led to an after-school job at the well-regarded Stravaigin, and following a year at university studying food chemistry, McHale cooked at Glasgow eateries Air Organic, Rococo, and Arthouse hotel. He then relocated to Australia and spent 11 months at Mark Best's Marque in Sydney before moving to London in 2004, at age 23. He landed a gig at Tom Aikens' eponymous restaurant in Chelsea, where he stayed for a difficult year before joining the opening team at The Ledbury in Notting Hill, under Chef Patron Brett Graham (the place opened in April 2005).
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This was a formative period for McHale, and during this time, he also <em>staged</em> at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/08/noma-copenhagen-denmark.html" target="_blank">Noma</a> (three weeks in 2008) and In De Wulf, as well as some spots in New York (including a day at Momofuku Ssam Bar). He left The Ledbury in December 2009 in order to open Elliot's Borough Market with two friends of his. While the restaurant was in work, he popped up at the Pavilion Cafe at Victoria Park, and also guest cheffed at The Loft Project, a supper club in East London started by Nuno Mendes. Two other chefs who'd cooked at The Loft Project were Ben Greeno and James Lowe (the three of them met through mutual friends from Noma), and in autumn 2010, they started working together, holding their first dinner in November at The Clove Club, an underground dining club in Dalston founded by Johnny Smith and Daniel Willis.
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By December, the trio had taken on the moniker The Young Turks (named after the London-based record label), and held another dinner at the Hempel Hotel in West London. At the start of 2011, the vision for Elliot's had morphed into something much more casual, so McHale left the project and rejoined the team at The Ledbury, becoming development chef, a position he held for 11 months. Another four nights of the Young Turks at The Clove Club took place in February 2011, followed by a return to The Loft Project in March-April (Greeno had basically left by this point to work for David Chang), an appearance at a vacated building in Canary Wharf (part of the "Restaurants in Residence" series) in June-July, and two nights at Frank's Cafe & Campari Bar in Peckham in August. At the beginning of November 2011, the Young Turks, along with Smith and Willis, started what turned out to be a six-month tenure at the Ten Bells, a historic pub in Spitalfields owned by John Twomey.
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Their residency came to a close at the end of April 2012, and following, they made several appearances overseas and began working on opening their own, separate restaurants. McHale subsequently returned to Upstairs at The Ten Bells, but announced plans for The Clove Club in August that year. Smith and Willis were also on board as partners, and after a successful <a href="http://www.crowdcube.com/investment/st-vibes-12013" target="_blank">crowd funding effort</a>, the restaurant grand-opened on March 4th, 2013. The place was a hit pretty much right from the get-go, and secured its first Michelin star in September 2014, and its second in February 2022. The Clove Club landed on The World's 50 Best Restaurants list in 2016 at the #26 spot, and has remained on the ranking ever since then.
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Given the success of The Clove Club, the partners have since expanded into other restaurants. In November 2016, they opened Luca, an Italian-British eatery in Farringdon/Clerkenwell helmed by Head Chef Robert Chambers; the place landed its own Michelin star in March this year. There was also Two Lights, led by Chase Lovecky, which opened in Shoreditch in October 2018, but shuttered at the start of the pandemic.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_205903+20231018_205907+20231018_205909+20231018_205911+20231018_205913+20231018_205915+20231018_205917+20231018_205919.jpg" width="1130" height="320" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Bar"><br>
The Clove Club is actually comprised of two distinct areas. Shown above is the bar/lounge, which is where I was seated given that I was a solo diner.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_224146+20231018_224144+20231018_224142.jpg" width="1130" height="425" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Dining Room"><br>
And here's the main dining room in the back, with its very open kitchen.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01961l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01961.jpg" width="481" height="300" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01962l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01962.jpg" width="208" height="300" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Menu (Final, Signed)"></a><br>
On the left, we see the menu presented to me at the beginning of the evening, while on the right is the signed, finalized version. The tasting menu is priced at £195 ($238.35) per head, plus 13% service, while wine, tea, and mixed pairings are available at £175 ($213.90), £75 ($91.67), and £125 ($152.79), respectively. Click for larger versions.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_195524l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_195524.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Introduction"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_195508l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_195508.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_195552l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_195552.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Sparkling & Alcohol-Free List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_195629l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_195629.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Beer & Cider List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200540l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200540.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Tea List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200543l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200543.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Tea & Coffee List"></a><br>
<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200604l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200604.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Spirits List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200607l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200607.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Whisky List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200639l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200639.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Spirits List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200642l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200642.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club Tasting Flights"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200749l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231018_200749.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="The Clove Club After-Dinner Drinks List"></a><br>
Pictured above is the restaurant's selection of cocktails (created by Head Bartender Louis Chauvin, who took great care of me most of the night), beers, teas, coffees, and spirits. Meanwhile, the full wine list can be viewed <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/TCC Wine List October.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>. Corkage is £75 ($91.67), limit one bottle per two guests. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01778.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Green Herb Broth"><br>
<strong>Amuse Bouche 1: Green Herb Broth</strong><br>
A cup of herb broth with chicken stock and white miso made for a marvelously herbaceous and homey start to my meal, really setting a comforting tone right from the beginning. It was just what I wanted after stepping into the restaurant from a cold, rainy autumn night.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01774.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Vermouth & Soda"><br>
<strong>Vermouth & Soda [£15.00 ($18.33)]</strong> | Aker Dry Aperitif, Pine Needle, Suze, Pear Soda. Long, fragrant & bitter.<br>
I went with cocktails tonight, and my first was on the lighter, refreshing side for sure, with its aromatic notes of pine and pear joined by a bevy of complex, bittersweet notes and a long-lasting finish redolent of more of that pine needle. A great apéritif.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01790.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Pepper Tart"><br>
<strong>Amuse Bouche 2: Pepper Tart</strong><br>
A combo of braised green/red pepper and green pepper jelly was paired with a feuille de brick pastry base that provided contrast in both taste and texture.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01796.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Buttermilk Fried Chicken"><br>
<strong>Amuse Bouche 3: Buttermilk Fried Chicken</strong><br>
Along with the tartlet above came a delightfully tender, juicy shard of fried chicken, replete with a "gritty", lightly-fried crust and a sprinkling of pine salt. This was actually a holdover from the old pop-up days.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01798.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Cornish Crab Dumpling"><br>
<strong>Amuse Bouche 4: Cornish Crab Dumpling</strong><br>
Cornish crab showed off a delectably sweet, persistent brine, and was joined by an elderflower hollandaise, while a spice-dusted, solidified brown crab bisque amped up the umami quotient even more.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01810.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="The Clove(r) Club"><br>
<strong>The Clove(r) Club [£18.00 ($22.00)]</strong> | No.3 London Dry Gin, Aker Rose Aperitif, Raspberry, Blossom Honey, Lemon, Foam. A house classic - Short, sharp & fruity.<br>
This scarlet-tinted cocktail demonstrated some deliciously tart, fruity, berry-driven flavors, all set against countering elements of egg, honey, and citrus.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01814.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Beetroot & Apple Gazpacho"><br>
<strong>Amuse Bouche 5: Beetroot & Apple Gazpacho</strong><br>
A gazpacho granita did a commendable job conveying the essence of the classic soup, and offered up sweet, vegetal, bracing, herb-accented flavors that juxtaposed swimmingly with a smoky charcoal-infused cream.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01820.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Smoked Wiltshire Trout"><br>
<strong>1: Smoked Wiltshire Trout</strong> | Almond Milk, Watercress & Petrossian Oscietra Caviar [+£25.00]<br>
Trout arrived wonderfully smoky, with a properly rare cook and some super crispy, salty skin. A dollop of Ossetra caviar magnified the brine factor further, and I was impressed by how well the fish paired with the sweet nuttiness of those slivered almonds.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01830.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Raw Orkney Scallop"><br>
<strong>2: Raw Orkney Scallop</strong> | Hazelnut, Clementine & Truffle<br>
Sliced scallops displayed a cool, fine brine that stood up well to the woodsiness of black truffle. I was surprised at how seamlessly the hazelnuts married here, while a commixture of squid ink and beurre noisette helped tie the dish together.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01828.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Pina-Colada"><br>
<strong>Pina-Colada [£17.00 ($20.78)]</strong> | Clairin Benevolence Rum, Darroze 8yo Armagnac, Pineapple Sage, Coconut Water. Long, light & tropical.<br>
The classic piña colada cocktail was given a makeover, its classically tropical notes tinged with hints of citrus, all while the potency of the Armagnac certainly made itself known.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01842.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sourdough Bread & Cultured Butter"><br>
For bread service, I was provided a pleasantly nutty housemade sourdough, served with a soft, salty cultured butter.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01850.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Cornish Sardine Sashimi"><br>
<strong>3: Cornish Sardine Sashimi</strong> | Ginger & Chrysanthemum<br>
This was actually Chauvin's favorite dish, and he knew what he was talking about, since it's also a contender for the best sardine dish I've ever had. The salinity of the fish was highlighted in a robust, yet utterly elegant manner, and I loved the counterpoint offered up by the lingering spiciness of ginger and the sweetness of that chrysanthemum glaze. Taking things over the top, meanwhile, was that potato crisp, with its superb savoriness and crunch. I wanted like a half-dozen more of these.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01852.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sardine Head Broth"><br>
Accompanying the course above was a wondrously heady broth made from the head of the sardine, but which had this creaminess that kept things in check.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01864.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Native Blue Lobster"><br>
<strong>4: Native Blue Lobster</strong> | Sauce Choron & Sri Lankan Spices<br>
A beautiful tail of Cornish blue lobster ate supple and rare and delicate, its sweetness enhanced by a smoked "bisque" and the ferment-y tang of piquillo pepper, all while the Choron imparted a creamy piquancy to the mix. Yum.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01892.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mizuwari"><br>
<strong>Mizuwari [£16.00 ($19.56)]</strong> | Craigellachie 13yo Scotch, White Peony and Golden Lily Milk Oolong tea. Long, complex & smoky.<br>
My final cocktail was certainly the booziest of the bunch. It really did emphasize the fruity-yet-smoky nature of the whisky, but commingled with a plethora of tea-fueled floral nuances.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01874.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Duck Sausage (On Grill)"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01878.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Duck Sausage"><br>
<strong>5: Duck Sausage</strong> | Duck & Ginger Consomme, Very Old Madeira<br>
I'm a sucker for sausage, and though I enjoyed this anatine example, I felt that it could've used some more smoke and sear to really take it to that next level. Fortunately, the chanterelles added an extra bit of oomph to the dish, while a celeriac purée smoothed things out.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01882.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Very Old Madeira"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01888.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Duck & Ginger Consomme"><br>
The sausage was served with a 1968 D'Oliveiras Boal Madeira, which was mixed with a duck and ginger consommé. The concoction drank herby, nutty, and autumnal, with the dark-toned flavors of the Bual peeking through. Neat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01900.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Yorkshire Grouse"><br>
<strong>6: Yorkshire Grouse</strong> | Elderberry, Clapshot & Bread Sauce<br>
Given that we were in the midst of grouse season, I was glad to see it on the menu tonight. The bird might be the strongest tasting I've had, with a deep, almost briny savor that was further intensified by the application of grouse jus. However, the gamefowl was tempered by the comparatively mild nature of the clapshot and what I believe were mashed carrots, while a juniper berry-boosted bread sauce added further facets to the dish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01904.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Grouse Boudin Blanc"><br>
The grouse was also turned into a boudin blanc. This was a much more approachable presentation, and was served with elderflower and what seemed like lentils.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01908.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Grilled Habanero Granita"><br>
<strong>7: Grilled Habanero Granita</strong> | Sorbet & Vanilla Yoghurt<br>
My first dessert course combined a creamy yogurt base with a tart berry sorbet, while an icy habanero granité imparted the essence of the pepper without much of its heat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01928.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Miaoli Oolong (Oriental Beauty)"><br>
To go along with my desserts, I opted for a serving of the <strong>Miaoli Oolong (Oriental Beauty) – Miaoli, Taiwan [£9 ($11.00)]</strong>, a Baihao oolong produced with the help of tea jassids. I found it distinctly fruity, with a creeping undercurrent of bitterness and an agreeably sweet finish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01916.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sollies Fig"><br>
<strong>8: Sollies Fig</strong> | Coconut Mousse & Caramelized White Chocolate<br>
Here, the sweet-tartness of fig was well matched by a smooth coconut panna cotta and the nuttiness of sesame and caramelized white chocolate.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01924.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Fig Donut"><br>
A warm doughnut arrived with a gratifying filling of fig. I wouldn't have mind a few more of these guys.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01930.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mignardises"><br>
<strong>Petit Fours: Barley Cake, Orange Creme Diplomat + Chocolate Hazelnut Speculoos + Dark Chocolate Bonbon</strong><br>
Last up was a trio of mignardises. I began with the bonbon, which was teeming with the richness of Madagascar dark chocolate. Meanwhile, the barley cake possessed a marked nuttiness that was countered by the citrusiness of that crème diplomate. Finally, the speculoos biscuit was probably my favorite of the three thanks to its sweet, autumnal spicing.
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The Clove Club made for a fitting, delicious conclusion to my recent time spent in Britain; my vacation certainly ended on a high note. McHale's cooking is a smart representation of modern British cuisine. Dishes are creative, sophisticated, intuitive, and even playful at times, but there's a certain stripped-down aspect to the food as well. It all made for the most refreshingly relaxed, sometimes surprising meal of this trip, and I can certainly see why so many people like this place. There's just an ease to it all--the accolades are well-deserved.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231019_004313.jpg" width="550" height="440" border="3" alt="The Connaught Bar"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/20231019_000508+20231019_000512+20231019_000514+20231019_000516.jpg" width="1130" height="355" border="3" alt="The Connaught Bar Interior"><br>
Following dinner, I caught a taxi to The Connaught, an ever so posh hotel in Mayfair. I was there to pay a visit to the vaunted Connaught Bar, a rather stylish drinking establishment with a design ostensibly inspired by the British Cubist art movement of the 1920s. The place opened back in 2008, and is helmed by Agostino Perrone and his lieutenant Giorgio Bargiani.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01938.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Welcome Cocktail"><br>
A complimentary welcome drink comprised pineapple, sweet vermouth, and tonic. Think tropical and easy-going, but with a bit of a bitter backbone.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01950.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Viridis"><br>
<strong>Viridis [£35.00 ($42.76)]</strong> | Basil Hayden Whisky, Raspberry & Cranberry Marsala Cordial, Sweet Vermouths Blend, Pierre Ferrand Yuzu Liquor<br>
Despite what's pictured above, my first cocktail was indeed a shade of green, not blue, so I guess I'll blame the color rendition on the lighting. In any case, the drink was actually much more subtle than I was expecting, with a vegetal, subdued fruitiness and gentle spice undergirded by the kick of the whiskey.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01942.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Dry Crackers"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01944.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Olives"><br>
Snacks included crisp, slightly herby, and somehow extremely drying crackers, as well as pitted olives.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01952.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Magnetum"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01956.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Magnetum (Mixed)"><br>
<strong>Magnetum [£28.00 ($34.21)]</strong> | Macallan 12, lemon verbena, fresh fennel, Galliano L'Autentico, milk, fresh pineapple, Noe Pedro Ximenez Sherry, Bob's lavender bitters<br>
My second cocktail featured something that I'd never encountered before: a custom strainer that was utilized to mix the layers of the drink. On the nose, this one was all about the Scotch, commixed with pear and zippy spices. Tasting it, I found bitters and whisky at the fore, but supported by a cast of dark fruit and oxidized notes.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01958.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Daydreaming"><br>
<strong>Daydreaming [£26.00 ($31.77)]</strong> | Brugal 1888 Rum, Amaro Santoni, Apostoles Sherry, Connaught Bar Sweet Vermouth and Bitter mix, Tropical Milk Jam, Billecart-Salmon Brut champagne<br>
I ended with the most unexpected cocktail of the night. The concoction was almost shockingly briny, savory, and vegetal, and quite unlike any drink I've had before. Yet, it was also somehow familiar, and actually recalled enchiladas(!), but with a hint of grapefruit.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01963l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01963.jpg" width="162" height="300" border="3" alt="Recipe Card: Viridis"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01964l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01964.jpg" width="162" height="300" border="3" alt="Recipe Card: Magnetum"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01965l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231018-CloveClub/DSC01965.jpg" width="162" height="300" border="3" alt="Recipe Card: Daydreaming"></a><br>
At the conclusion of my time here, I was presented with recipe cards for all the drinks I'd had. I've not come across anything like this before, but I have to say that it's a great idea that I'd like to see other bars copy. Click for larger versions.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-89583909667736161612023-10-17T17:35:00.000-07:002023-12-17T10:59:18.192-08:00A. Wong (London, United Kingdom)<b><i>A.Wong Restaurant<br>
70 Wilton Rd, Pimlico, London SW1V 1DE, United Kingdom<br>
+44 20 7828 8931<br>
<a href="http://www.awong.co.uk" target="_blank">www.awong.co.uk</a><br>
Tue 10/17/2023, 05:35p-08:40p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_173656.jpg" width="835" height="400" border="3" alt="A. Wong Exterior">
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Following <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/10/ikoyi-london-united-kingdom.html" target="_blank">Ikoyi</a>, another meal in London I was very curious about was A. Wong, a two-Michelin star rated Chinese restaurant. Now, I've had my fair share of Chinese food, but not at the two-star level, so I was certainly excited to see what they'd be serving here. The place is the brainchild of Chef/Owner Andrew Wong, and opened in 2012 at an address that previously held Kym's (a.k.a. 金滿楼), an eatery that was actually run by his parents.
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<u><em>About the Chef</em></u>: Wong was born in London in 1982, and spent his childhood years between there and Hong Kong, where his parents Albert and Annie immigrated from (the "A" in A. Wong actually refers to their names). His grandfather was a restaurateur, and operated a couple of public houses in the East End as well as a restaurant on Gerrard Street in Chinatown. His parents were also in the industry, and ran pubs and takeaway eateries before opening a Chinese spot called Kym's (named after Wong's grandmum) in 1985. The Chef grew up in his parents' restaurants, and was taught Chinese cookery by both his mother and grandmother, but did not initially pursue a career in hospitality.
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Wong did well in school, and after performing strongly on his GCSE and A-level exams, was able to attend the University of Oxford, majoring in chemistry, but only stayed there for about a year and a half. When his father passed away in 2003, he (and now-wife Nathalie Wong) was thrust back into the family business, helping to run their four restaurants. In 2005, he began studying social anthropology at the London School of Economics, graduating three years later, and later attained a degree from London South Bank University. Wong took evening culinary classes at Westminster Kingsway College from 2008 to 2011, and spent considerable time in China learning regional Chinese cooking; he also worked in a number of Western restaurants in London to broaden his range.
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Armed with this newfound know-how (bolstered by the research of food anthropologist Dr. Mukta Das), the Chef re-opened Kym's as A. Wong in late 2012, with the goal of presenting his unique interpretations of Chinese cuisine. The place began building some momentum, and in 2014, it was awarded a Bib Gourmand by Michelin, while <em>A. Wong: The Cookbook</em> was released in September 2015. A Michelin star arrived in October 2017, and a second in January 2021, making A. Wong the first Chinese restaurant outside of Asia to hold the distinction.
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As for other ventures, in January 2018, Wong debuted Baoshuan at The Oberoi hotel in New Delhi, and in October that year, he opened a second incarnation of Kym's, this time at 19 Bloomberg Arcade, with partners Chris Miller (White Rabbit Fund) and Terry Kuet. The place, which was originally supposed to be called Madame Wong, was focused on <em>sīuméi</em>, but sadly, shuttered in March 2020 due to the pandemic, and never recovered.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_204008+20231017_204006+20231017_204003.jpg" width="1130" height="450" border="3" alt="A. Wong Interior"><br>
The dining room has been revamped from the Kym's days, and is centered around the bar and kitchen.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_174343+20231017_174345+20231017_174346+20231017_174348+20231017_174350.jpg" width="742" height="400" border="3" alt="A. Wong Bar"><br>
Shown here is my view from the far end of the bar.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_201637+20231017_201635+20231017_201632.jpg" width="845" height="400" border="3" alt="Forbidden City"><br>
I also ventured into the restaurant's Forbidden City bar, which is located downstairs and was the former waiting room for Kym's.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01761l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01761.jpg" width="207" height="300" border="3" alt="A. Wong Menu: Cover"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01762l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01762.jpg" width="207" height="300" border="3" alt="A. Wong Menu: Introduction"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01763l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01763.jpg" width="207" height="300" border="3" alt="A. Wong Menu: The Collections of China"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01764l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01764.jpg" width="207" height="300" border="3" alt="A. Wong Menu: Back Cover"></a><br>
For dinner, the lone menu option is The Collections of China tasting, a 30-dish extravaganza priced at £200.00 ($244.44), plus 12.5% service. Wine pairings are available at £100 ($122.22) or £200 ($244.44), while the wine list can be seen <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/awong-wine-menu.docx" target="_blank">here</a>. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01534.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="鱼香生蠔 Scalded oysters with 'fish fragrant' aubergine sauce"><br>
<strong>1: 鱼香生蠔 Scalded oysters with 'fish fragrant' aubergine sauce</strong><br>
Dishes at A. Wong are served in large groupings, and my first set comprised a whopping eight courses, of which this particular one was to be eaten first. The <em>yú xiāng</em> seasoning was front and center here, offering a growing spice that complemented the cool brine of the oyster without overwhelming it.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01544.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="醬炒豆 French beans, wasabi soy and osmanthus jelly"><br>
<strong>2: 醬炒豆 French beans, wasabi soy and osmanthus jelly</strong><br>
I was instructed to have this curious looking course next, and enjoyed how the sharp heat of the wasabi played with the mild, crunchy beans, all while the sweetness of osmanthus moderated it all.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01550.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Sesame Noodles"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01554.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="小甜薯 Yunnan sweet potato with tamarind and shrimp caramel"><br>
<strong>3: 小甜薯 Yunnan sweet potato with tamarind and shrimp caramel</strong><br>
The remaining six courses could be eaten in any order, so I started with this roasted sweet potato, which was fortunately restrained in its sugariness, and possessed a nice tempering spice to boot. Even better were the sweet potato noodles, which were great texturally, and showed off a delightful nuttiness courtesy of the sesame.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01524.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="A Wong Negroni"><br>
<strong>A Wong Negroni [£15.00 ($18.33)]</strong> | Portobello Road No 171 Gin, Campari, Sweet Vermouth, Star Anise, Sichuan Pepper, Cinnamon, Smoke<br>
I ended up going with cocktails this evening. This riff on the Negroni was super smoky on the nose, while flavors were deep and complex, with the drink's fruity, sour, and bitter notes overarched by the allure of sweet spices.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01560.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="蜜汁叉烧配鵝干 Cantonese honey roasted pork and grated foie gras"><br>
<strong>4: 蜜汁叉烧配鵝干 Cantonese honey roasted pork and grated foie gras</strong><br>
Cha siu demonstrated plenty of sweetness and sear, and was cleverly evened out by the foie gras, making for a surprisingly effective combination that I'd like to see more often, though I would've liked the pork served warmer. The candied walnuts were spot on, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01530.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="釀蟹鉗 Zhou dynasty cured scallop, stuffed crab claw"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01566.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Zhou dynasty cured scallop, stuffed crab claw (Cut Open)"><br>
<strong>5: 釀蟹鉗 Zhou dynasty cured scallop, stuffed crab claw</strong><br>
This rather gnarly looking dish was definitely a favorite of mine tonight. The stuffed claw was filled with a delectably sweet-n-saline crab and prawn mousse, while the tangle of roasted vermicelli noodles imparted both a shattery texture and a lovely smoke.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01582.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="千層叉燒帶子 Isle of Mull seared scallop and honey glazed Iberico char siu"><br>
<strong>6: 千層叉燒帶子 Isle of Mull seared scallop and honey glazed Iberico char siu</strong><br>
A marriage of scallop and cha siu veered sweet, but not overly so, and somehow, I even detected a mintiness, while the delicate crispiness of the bite really appealed to me.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01586.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="老虎菜 'Tiger salad' with cumin lamb and split buttermilk"><br>
<strong>7: 老虎菜 'Tiger salad' with cumin lamb and split buttermilk</strong><br>
This "salad" course brought together juicy tomatoes with some assertively spiced meat, all set in an herb-infused buttermilk.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01592.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="冰鎮拍黃瓜 Chilled 'smacked' cucumber with trout roe, chilli, garlic vinegar"><br>
<strong>8: 冰鎮拍黃瓜 Chilled 'smacked' cucumber with trout roe, chilli, garlic vinegar</strong><br>
A reimagined version of the ubiquitous cold appetizer <em>pāi huángguā</em> paired cool, crunchy cuts of cucumber with an aggressively sweet, tangy, nutty heat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01598.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="上海小籠包 Shanghai steamed dumplings, ginger infused vinegar"><br>
<strong>9: 上海小籠包 Shanghai steamed dumplings, ginger infused vinegar</strong><br>
A quintet of dim sum-inspired dishes came out next. The <em>xiǎo lóng bāo</em> showed off a refined porkiness and a subdued piquancy from the vinegar (which was injected into the dumpling) that made for quite a balanced bite.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01594.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Shanghai"><br>
<strong>Shanghai [£16.00 ($19.56)]</strong> | Rémy Martin 1738 Accord Royal, Ginger, Green & Oolong Tea<br>
This cognac-based cocktail was generally bright and punchy, though I would've liked to have tasted more from the advertised tea.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01602.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="點心 Dim sum duo"><br>
<strong>10: 點心 Dim sum duo</strong><br>
Two icons of dim sum were served together. The shumai had this atypically forceful <em>xiánwèi</em> that I appreciated, along with some nice textural variation. Meanwhile, a delicately-skinned har gow arrived topped with rice vinegar foam, and had this bright, apple-like sensation leading to the familiar brine of the shrimp.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01609.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="千年皮蛋配菜心 Choy sum with century egg"><br>
<strong>11: 千年皮蛋配菜心 Choy sum with century egg</strong><br>
I was asked to enjoy this and the next course as palate cleansers ahead of the beef, and here, the pungency of <em>pídàn</em> was successfully offset by the brightness of <em>cài xīn</em>.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01614.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="四川木耳 Wood ear fungus"><br>
<strong>12: 四川木耳 Wood ear fungus</strong><br>
<em>Mù'ěr</em> had that slippery, crunchy texture I was looking for, while the fungus' mild taste was matched by both an herbiness and a sour, long-lasting heat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01620.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Pear Slice"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01622.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="和牛生 Raw wagyu, fermented meat paste"><br>
<strong>13: 和牛生 Raw wagyu, fermented meat paste</strong><br>
A wagyu beef tartare ate sweet and earthy, with a marked mintiness, and matched up swimmingly with the much lighter flavors from the sliced pear.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01626.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="北京鸭 'Memories of Peking Duck', foie gras and smoked duck"><br>
<strong>14: 北京鸭 'Memories of Peking Duck', foie gras and smoked duck</strong><br>
Cherrywood-smoked duck captured the essence of the traditional dish pretty well, and I liked its "freshness" as well as the texture on the pancake wrapper. I was told to eat this in two bites, one with the caviar and one with the truffle, the latter of which was superior.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01638.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="素魚翅羹 'Why we don't need to eat Shark's fin soup'"><br>
<strong>15: 素魚翅羹 'Why we don't need to eat Shark's fin soup'</strong><br>
Next up was a foursome of seafood dishes, with my favorite being this mock shark fin soup, which had the flossy, gelatinous consistency I wanted, while flavors were deeply familiar, savory, and satisfying. Per my server's direction, I also poured the soup on top of the abalone below, but this seemed unnecessary.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01648.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Gin and Tonic, Forbidden Den Blend"><br>
<strong>Gin and Tonic, Forbidden Den Blend [£13.00 ($15.89)]</strong> | Andrew's customised gin with our friends from the Portobello Road distillery with infusions of Sichuan peppercorns and dried tangerine<br>
My third cocktail was a rejiggered G and T, which had all your classic notes, but in a more aromatic package thanks to the use of Sichuan pepper.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01642.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="白灵菇扒鲍片 Braised abalone, shitake mushroom, sea cucumber and abalone butter"><br>
<strong>16: 白灵菇扒鲍片 Braised abalone, shitake mushroom, sea cucumber and abalone butter</strong><br>
A duet of abalone and sea cucumber was both supple yet crunchy, its gentle salinity matched by a bitter brightness while the shiitake added a touch more oomph to the dish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01632.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="蒜茸蒸虾 Garlic steamed wild tiger prawn, mung bean noodles, superior soy"><br>
<strong>17: 蒜茸蒸虾 Garlic steamed wild tiger prawn, mung bean noodles, superior soy</strong><br>
The steamed shrimp was beautifully textured, its sweetness matching seamlessly with the combo of soy, garlic, and ginger, all while the mung bean noodles imparted further textural interest. This was especially gratifying when taken with the provided white rice.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01658.jpg" width="320" height="480" border="3" alt="Chili Sauce Paint"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01653.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="红烧臭鳜鱼 Anhui province red braised fermented wild seabass"><br>
<strong>18: 红烧臭鳜鱼 Anhui province red braised fermented wild seabass</strong><br>
A tender cut of <em>hóngshāo</em> sea bass was crowned with a super crunchy, savory prawn cracker, on which I "painted" a sweet chili sauce.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01666.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="肉夹馍 Shaanxi pulled lamb 'burger' with Xinjiang pomegranate salad"><br>
<strong>19: 肉夹馍 Shaanxi pulled lamb 'burger' with Xinjiang pomegranate salad</strong><br>
Next came three "snacks," and I was asked to start with this riff on <em>ròujiāmó</em>. I scooped up the various components using the provided bread, and loved how everything just came together so perfectly in one bite, with that superbly spiced lamb melding easily with all the fruity, nutty, and spicy elements in the bowl. A highlight for sure.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01674.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="魚子醬豉油雞 'Soy chicken' with ginger oil and Oscietra caviar wrap"><br>
<strong>20: 魚子醬豉油雞 'Soy chicken' with ginger oil and Oscietra caviar wrap</strong><br>
Meant to be dipped in the accompanying soy sauce, my second snack blended sweet and savory flavors with the punch of ginger and a bit of <em>málà</em> heat.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01678.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="手拉面 Pulled noodle cracker with Japanese wagyu and shrimp chilli oil"><br>
<strong>21: 手拉面 Pulled noodle cracker with Japanese wagyu and shrimp chilli oil</strong><br>
A <em>shǒu lāmiàn</em> cracker was a joy texturally, and came topped with woodsy king oyster mushrooms, wagyu, and a particularly inviting chili oil, though the beef wasn't all that apparent.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01660.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Peking duck 'Old fashioned'"><br>
<strong>Peking duck 'Old fashioned' [£16.00 ($19.56)]</strong> | Johnny Walker Whiskey infused with traditional Peking duck fat and roasting spices, hoisin syrup, Angostura<br>
My penultimate cocktail conveyed classic aromas, but with some unusually potent apple notes, while on the palate, the drink was thick and sweet and smoky, just hinting at its Peking duck inspiration.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01688.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="宫保雞丁 Gong Bao chicken, roasted peanuts and 'hot pot' essence"><br>
<strong>22: 宫保雞丁 Gong Bao chicken, roasted peanuts and 'hot pot' essence</strong><br>
A reinterpreted Kung Pao chicken was another standout, really capturing the core of the classic dish. I loved the nuttiness and numbing heat of the bite, and how that all meshed with the zestiness of green onion, which chicken itself was on point as well.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01702.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="花椒㴝子 Nashi pear with Sichuan pepper"><br>
<strong>23: 花椒㴝子 Nashi pear with Sichuan pepper</strong><br>
My final set of six savory dishes kicked off with this palate cleanser of sorts, which comprised a juicy slice of Asian pear dusted with Sichuan peppercorn.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01710.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="菊花豆腐 Chrysanthemum tofu, lemon grass broth"><br>
<strong>24: 菊花豆腐 Chrysanthemum tofu, lemon grass broth</strong><br>
The chrysanthemum tofu had that soft, silky consistency I was looking for, while its broth was robustly flavored, with a chicken-y savor. The course was also served with a spoonful of zingy sauce on the side.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01705.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="薄荷牛肉卷 Yunnan seared beef with mint, chilli and lemongrass"><br>
<strong>25: 薄荷牛肉卷 Yunnan seared beef with mint, chilli and lemongrass</strong><br>
This next course was meant to be eaten alongside the tofu above. I found the beef super tender, with a great counterpoint in the form of that wonderfully minty, herbaceous sauce.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01713.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="甜酸鸡 Sweet and sour corn-fed chicken, Thai basil, pineapple and candied walnuts"><br>
<strong>26: 甜酸鸡 Sweet and sour corn-fed chicken, Thai basil, pineapple and candied walnuts</strong><br>
The <em>tián suān jī</em> showed off a polished sweet-n-sour character that linked up well with the various veggies, though the chicken really should've been hotter and crispier.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01716.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="雲南腸粉 Roasted cashew, tamarind, dried shrimp and coriander Cheung fun"><br>
<strong>27: 雲南腸粉 Roasted cashew, tamarind, dried shrimp and coriander Cheung fun</strong><br>
Up next was essentially a thoroughly reworked rice noodle roll. I was certainly a fan of its sweet, nutty, savory flavors, and was especially fond of that crispy <em>yóutiáo</em> on top.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01682.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Henan"><br>
<strong>Henan [£15.00 ($18.33)]</strong> | Baijiu, Cherry Brandy, Elderflower, Orange Bitters, Mint<br>
The evening's final cocktail was based on <em>báijiǔ</em>, and the spirit's earthy, "grain-y" flavors worked reasonably well with the drink's stone fruit notes, though I still can't say that I'm a fan of the stuff.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01692.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Young Coconut"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01694.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Truffle on Top"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01722.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="碳燒八味椰菁 Young coconut with Madagascan black pepper sauce"><br>
<strong>28: 碳燒八味椰菁 Young coconut with Madagascan black pepper sauce</strong><br>
This may have been the most intriguing bite of the night. Think deeply savory, augmented by the musk of black truffle, with the coconut imparting a much-needed sweetness and levity. Nice texture from that fried shiso leaf, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01726.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="cheese/fruit vinegar/chilli orange sorbet"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01732.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="cheese/fruit vinegar/chilli orange sorbet"><br>
<strong>29a: cheese/fruit vinegar/chilli orange sorbet</strong><br>
Time for dessert. A caramelized walnut was topped with a funky blue cheese, and was subsequently softened by a shot of the accompanying prune vinegar. I also had some dragon's beard candy (not pictured), which had a fantastically feathery texture along with chocolate and fruit flavors.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01724.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Bird's Nest"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01734.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="草莓椰香燕窩 Coconut water ice, bird's nest, fermented coconut, dried mulberries, yoghurt and mochi"><br>
<strong>29b: 草莓椰香燕窩 Coconut water ice, bird's nest, fermented coconut, dried mulberries, yoghurt and mochi</strong><br>
Dessert proper comprised coconut-flavored ice water with mulberries and a center of steamed bird's nest. I found the dish fresh, aromatic, sweet, and herbaceous, with a delightful array of textures.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01742.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="生果 'Fruits' – Homage to Enigma"><br>
<strong>30: 生果 'Fruits' – Homage to Enigma</strong><br>
The fruit course consisted of fig and a faux orange made with sugar, lime, jelly, and salt.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01744.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mignardises"><br>
Petit four duties were handled by a tart raspberry chocolate, a rich banana caramel, and a rather saline salted caramel.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01765l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01765.jpg" width="442" height="300" border="3" alt="A. Wong Postcard: Hainan"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01766l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01766.jpg" width="442" height="300" border="3" alt="A. Wong Postcard: Back"></a><br>
Along with dessert came a postcard, which the staff actually offered to mail for me. Click for larger version.
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My experience here was quite unlike any other Chinese meal I've had. Wong's cooking is rooted in the classics, yet represents his own renditions of regional cuisine, and overall, I appreciated how I was able to explore a wide breadth of Chinese cookery in one dinner. And indeed, there were some real highlights tonight. However, I do have concerns with how the meal was structured. Serving up to eight dishes at once is not ideal. Both texture and temperature are going to be compromised, since the food is just sitting out longer, and in addition, I felt rushed trying to eat everything in a reasonable amount of time. Because of this, I'd actually recommend a reduction in the number of courses (30 is rather high as is), in order to make a standard service model more feasible.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_223955.jpg" width="375" height="500" border="3" alt="Le Gavroche Entrance"> <img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_210246+20231017_210244+20231017_210241+20231017_210239.jpg" width="720" height="400" border="3" alt="Le Gavroche Bar/Lounge"><br>
If you've read my report on <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/10/the-waterside-inn-bray-united-kingdom.html" target="_blank">The Waterside Inn</a>, you'll be well informed about the role that the Roux brothers have played in the British dining scene over the past several decades. The brothers' first restaurant was, of course, Le Gavroche, which they opened in 1967 and which was the first restaurant in the UK to be awarded three Michelin stars, back in 1982. Unfortunately, shortly before my visit to England, it was announced that Le Gavroche would be closing in January 2024, as Chef Patron Michel Roux Jr is looking to retire from such a high-pressure environment. Given that we're talking about an end of an era, I was hoping to secure reservations prior to the shutter, but alas, everything was all booked up. Thus, after my meal at A. Wong, I settled on just having a drink in the restaurant's ruby-hued bar/lounge area and seeing the space for my first and final time.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_205654l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_205654.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Le Gavroche Cocktail & Beer List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_205703l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_205703.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Le Gavroche Beverage, Vermouth & Sherry List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_205708l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_205708.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Le Gavroche Fortified Wine & Spirits List"></a><br>
Shown above is Le Gavroche's selection of cocktails, beers, ciders, and sundry other beverages, all presented on a tablet, somewhat surprisingly given the old school nature of the place. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01748.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Champagne Cocktail"><br>
<strong>Champagne Cocktail [£20.00 ($24.44)]</strong> | Champagne, Brandy, Sugar and Angostura Bitter<br>
This seemed like an appropriate cocktail for the location and occasion. I found the drink quite fruity up front, but with countering citrusy and bittersweet notes and a dash of verve from the Champ. A very apt apéritif.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01754.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Plantain Chips & Almonds"><br>
Complimentary snacks include almonds and what I believe were plantain chips.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01758.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Le Gavroche 18"><br>
<strong>Le Gavroche 18 [£20.00 ($24.44)]</strong> | Gavroche Gin, Grand Marnier, Champagne, Lime Twist<br>
Another Champagne-based cocktail boasted loads of lime up, a bracing amount in fact, which then led to the citrusy, bittersweet kick of Grand Marnier, the bubbly providing an offsetting fizziness.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_214613l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_214613.jpg" width="396" height="300" border="3" alt="Le Gavroche Wine List: Le Pin"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_214739l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_214739.jpg" width="396" height="300" border="3" alt="Le Gavroche Wine List: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti"></a><br>
While I was enjoying my time at Le Gavroche, I perused the restaurant's electronic wine list. A couple things I noted: (1) I've never seen so many vintages of Le Pin; (2) the prices on DRC aren't bad at all. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/DSC01760.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Pomme Rol"><br>
<strong>Pomme Rol [£19.00 ($23.22)]</strong> | Aperol, Cidre Wignac, Peach Slice<br>
Given that I'd already had quite a bit to drink, I ended the evening with a lighter cocktail, one with sweet, rich notes of apple, cut by bitterness and booziness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_222624+20231017_222626.jpg" width="1130" height="424" border="3" alt="Le Gavroche Dining Room"><br>
I then headed downstairs for a peek of the main dining room.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231017-AWong/20231017_222549+20231017_222551+20231017_222554+20231017_222556.jpg" width="780" height="424" border="3" alt="Le Gavroche Bathroom"><br>
Finally, the loo. I appreciated the individual cubby holes for the hand towels, but I did not appreciate the uncomfortably close positioning of the urinals.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-39286713613279563142023-10-16T18:45:00.000-07:002023-12-12T01:05:01.351-08:00Ikoyi (London, United Kingdom)<b><i>Ikoyi Restaurant<br>
180 Strand, Temple, London WC2R 1EA, United Kingdom<br>
+44 20 3583 4660<br>
<a href="http://www.ikoyilondon.com" target="_blank">www.ikoyilondon.com</a><br>
Mon 10/16/2023, 06:45p-09:30p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01513+DSC01511+DSC01515.jpg" width="1130" height="365" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Exterior">
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My third dinner in London took place at Ikoyi, the restaurant that I was the most intrigued about, given that it serves West African-inspired cuisine at the Michelin two-star level. I kept thinking to myself: <em>what does that even look like?</em> Well, I was certainly curious to find out. The place comes to us from Chef Jeremy Chan and his childhood friend Iré Hassan-Odukale, who hails from Ikoyi, Lagos, Nigeria, hence the restaurant's name. What they've done is created a cuisine centered on West African spices as well as seasonal British ingredients, a combination that I'd never even considered prior to my meal here.
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<u><em>About the Chef</em></u>: Chan was born in April 1987 in the UK to a Chinese father (a lawyer) and a Canadian mother (a ballet dancer), but actually spent much of his childhood in Hong Kong, as well as Canada. He was interested in food from an early age, and started getting serious about cooking around the time he turned 15, often preparing meals for the family on the rare occasions that they were all together. It was also during his teenage years when he would meet Hassan-Odukale, who'd moved to London when he was 16; the two soon became friends, and even flatmates later on. Hassan-Odukale would go on to attend the London School of Economics (c/o 2008), while Chan went to Princeton (where he studied comparative literature) after completing his private school education at Wellington College.
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After graduating magna cum laude in 2010, he moved to Madrid to work in private equity (in the renewable energy space), but only lasted two years in the field. He decided to throw himself into the culinary world, experimenting in the kitchen and reading through hundreds of cookbooks. After returning to London and quitting his job, he was able to secure a weeks-long <em>stage</em> at Claude Bosi's Hibiscus. This was followed by three months at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/08/noma-copenhagen-denmark.html" target="_blank">Noma</a>, and then a position at <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/10/dinner-by-heston-blumenthal-london.html" target="_blank">Dinner by Heston Blumenthal</a>, which proved quite difficult for the young chef. In 2016, Chan departed Dinner after eight months and joined forces with Hassan-Odukale, who'd just left a career in the insurance field and was looking to open a fast casual Nigerian eatery. That initial idea never panned out, as the Chef began a deep dive into West African cookery and came to the conclusion that those flavors and ingredients would be the perfect jumping-off point for a proper gastronomic restaurant.
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Ikoyi thus debuted in July 2017 in St James's Market to mixed reviews, as Chan's brand of Nigerian-ish cuisine wasn't necessarily well understood. The business was close to folding early on, but after the team decided to up the level of their cooking, Ikoyi began garnering more and more acclaim, and in October 2018, it received its first Michelin star. Like many others, Ikoyi was dealt a setback due to the pandemic, but its temporary closure allowed Chan to rejigger the menu and the restaurant as a whole. The place reopened in December 2020, and in September the following year, it made its first appearance in The World's 50 Best Restaurants ranking, coming in at #87 while also winning the "One to Watch" award. Two Michelin stars arrived in February 2022, and in July that year, Ikoyi rose to the #49 spot in the 50 Best list. In October 2022, the restaurant closed at its original location, but reopened on the ground floor of a Brutalist building on the Strand that December. Chan's first cookbook was released in April this year, and in June, the restaurant's 50 Best ranking improved to #35.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191522+20231016_191524+20231016_191525+20231016_191527+20231016_191530.jpg" width="885" height="400" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Interior"><br>
Pictured above is the view from my seat into Ikoyi's unusually open, unusually serene kitchen. The restaurant was penned by <a href="http://www.studiodavidthulstrup.com/IKOYI-RESTAURANT/" target="_blank">Studio David Thulstrup</a>, a Danish design firm that gave the dining room a copper-hued, modernist aesthetic appropriate for the tone of the food. Capacity is reportedly a mere 28, with six in a separate private dining room.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01517l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01517.jpg" width="451" height="300" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_185827l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_185827.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Cocktail & Beer List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_185838l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_185838.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Spirits, Digestifs & Dessert Wine List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_185854l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_185854.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Coffee & Tea List"></a><br>
<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190531l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190531.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wines by the Glass List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190533l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190533.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wine List: Champagne / Sparkling"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190628l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190628.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wine List: White"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190631l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190631.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wine List: White"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190719l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190719.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wine List: White"></a><br>
<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190722l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_190722.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wine List: Orange / Rosé"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191202l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191202.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191204l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191204.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191240l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191240.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191243l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191243.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wine List: Red"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191341l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_191341.jpg" width="172" height="245" border="3" alt="Ikoyi Wine List: Sake / Beer, Perry and Cider / Sweet"></a><br>
Ikoyi's tasting menu is priced at £300 ($366.66) per person, plus 12.5% service, though there's also a shorter lunch menu at £180 ($220.00), served Wednesdays and Thursdays. Beverage choices include a small selection of cocktails, a smattering of beer, a few sakes, and a decidedly Old World-leaning wine list. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01401.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Timur & Tea Gimlet"><br>
<strong>Timur & Tea Gimlet [£15.00 ($18.33)]</strong> | Tequila - Timur - Koseret Tea<br>
I kicked things off with a cocktail, specifically a gimlet that was quite unlike any other I've had before. Aromas were primarily citrusy and herbal, but with a lot more behind that, while taste-wise, I found deep, aromatic, multifaceted spices that seamlessly offset the tequila.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01407.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Gola Pepper Broth"><br>
<strong>1: Gola Pepper Broth</strong><br>
My meal commenced with a simple-looking bowl containing a hot broth incorporating caramelized chicken wings and gola peppercorn oil. Nosing it, I got a bevy of dark spices and herbs, backed by a potent pepperiness. Taking a sip, I was wowed by the soup's intensity and complexity, its sweet spices, and its long-lasting finish that was redolent of pepper, yet effortlessly subtle at the same time. An invigorating liquid that really enlivened the palate, this was a powerful start, one that really set the tone for the rest of the meal.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01413.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Smoked Sirloin & Shishito Pepper"><br>
<strong>2: Smoked Sirloin & Shishito Pepper</strong><br>
The first of three canapés was a poppyseed tart with smoked venison, sweet potato purée, wild sea bass, and shishito. I was surprised at how effective the back-and-forth between the venison and the bass was, with the fish really stand up surprisingly well to the meat. I think the key was the intricacy of all the spices involved here, which really evened the playing field for the two proteins. Lovely lingering heat and brine on this one, too.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01427.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Malt & Apricot Sour"><br>
<strong>Malt & Apricot Sour [£15.00 ($18.33)]</strong> | Pedro's - Barley - Apricot<br>
My second cocktail was also enticing, with its almost yogurt-like funkiness joined by fruity, citrusy nuances and a malty sort of nuttiness from the barley.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01417.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Kabu, Aged Scallop & Vadouvan"><br>
<strong>3: Kabu, Aged Scallop & Vadouvan</strong><br>
Another tartlet brought a plethora of warm, nutty spices right up front, which then led to the cool, sweet brine of scallop, juxtaposed against even nuttier, much more familiar spices, with the turnip providing a modicum of moderation. This all made for a superb interplay of flavors, and served as another demonstration of the Chef's facility with West African seasoning.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01419.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Drunken Chicken Toast"><br>
<strong>4: Drunken Chicken Toast</strong><br>
The final hors d'oeuvre was arguably my favorite of the bunch. A riff on the classic Chinese dish, I found this very familiar, with loads of dark-toned chicken-y notes pairing beautifully with the zing of spring onion and the nutty crunch of puffed quinoa.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01431.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Mussels, Saffron, Beetroot & Line-Caught Squid"><br>
<strong>5: Mussels, Saffron, Beetroot & Line-Caught Squid</strong><br>
What I believe was a custard of saffron and mussels was presented with daikon, squid marinated in its own ink, a tartare of dry-aged John Dory, and kaluga caviar, then finished with a reduction of beet. I found this an utterly multifaceted, contemplative presentation of salinity and umami, but brightened up by the tanginess of beetroot.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01435.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Cantillon x Cantina Giardino, Drogone Lambic, Brussels - Belgium"><br>
Next to imbibe was the 2022 release of the <strong>Cantillon x Cantina Giardino, Drogone Lambic, Brussels - Belgium [£80 ($97.78)]</strong>, which, given the beer's rarity in the US, I absolutely had to order once I saw it on the menu. A blend of three-year-old lambic and Aglianico grape pomace macerated in chestnut barrels, this showed off a nose brimming with tart red fruit and funk. On the palate, the ale drank tannic and acidic, with more red fruits and earth joined by a bit of a peppery bent. Just lovely.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01445.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Pigeon Suya"><br>
<strong>6: Pigeon Suya</strong><br>
Hay-smoked squab demonstrated a wonderfully silky, supple consistency along with deep, yet refined flavors, while portions of sweetbread and prawn were even more delicate. At the same time, there was this subtle, yet building spice that really worked here. I was also a fan of that delightfully bitter-woodsy greens-mushroom combo, as well as the brightness of that broccoli(?) sauce.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01457.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Moin Moin, Lobster & Pine Nut"><br>
<strong>7: Moin Moin, Lobster & Pine Nut</strong><br>
The moin-moin presented itself as a sort legume cake loaded with dark, heady notes that made a lot of sense with the much lighter flavors of a lobster salad. We also see a cut of octopus, with its satisfying, "snappy" chew and complex, creeping, sweet spices, as well as a fatty shard of pork jowl, which had this almost coffee-like character. In the center of the plate was pine nut milk dotted with kombu oil, which contributed further allure to the dish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01471.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Turbot & Egusi Miso"><br>
<strong>8: Turbot & Egusi Miso</strong><br>
Cooked rare, line-caught Cornish turbot had a wonderfully gratifying consistency along with an elegant sort of taste that was enriched by an egusi butter. The fish also married well with the sweet, spicy, nearly BBQ-esque components in the dish, while the veggies and carrot pudding offered up some contrast.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01465.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Brioche"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01473.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Brioche (Cross Section)"><br>
I was then provided the most perfectly cylindrical brioche I'd ever seen, a particularly sugary example stuffed with mushroom and finished with smoked honey butter.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01491.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Native Breed Rib, Roasted Cep & Sauerkraut"><br>
<strong>9: Native Breed Rib, Roasted Cep & Sauerkraut</strong><br>
Lean cuts of Hereford rib showcased sweet spices along with a building pepperiness, and were accompanied by horseradish and roasted cep sauces, with the mushroom actually recalling cacao. I was a fan of the heat imparted by those roast chili peppers, while even better was the bright crunch of the sauerkraut, which reminded me a bit of baek kimchi.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01479.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Smoked Jollof Rice"><br>
<strong>10: Smoked Jollof Rice</strong><br>
Ikoyi's jollof is one of the restaurant's signature dishes, and I can see why. The rice's potent, mouthwatering aroma was apparent even as it was coming to the table. I loved its wonderfully smoky, inviting dry spice character and slow-burning, long-lasting heat, while the rice itself was spot-on texturally. This is something that you just want to eat a whole big bowl of.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01493.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Bird King Da Hong Pao"><br>
To go along with dessert, I opted for the <strong>Bird King Da Hong Pao (鸟王种大红袍) [£8 ($9.78)]</strong>, a charcoal-fired oolong tea from Guiding, Guizhou that arrived with its own info card. I found the tea super fruity, with an amazingly tropical quality (think pineapple) countered by a bit of a nutty, grassy character.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01497.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Green Yuzu & Rye Amazake"><br>
<strong>11: Green Yuzu & Rye Amazake</strong><br>
My first dessert brought together yuzu sorbet with fermented rye, finger lime, and a pine cone syrup. This was a clever course to be sure, with its strong overarching citrus notes playing well with piquant, ferment-y flavors, a marked sweetness, and the "grain-y" nature of the rye.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01501.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Black-Eyed Pea & Caramelized White Chocolate"><br>
<strong>12: Black-Eyed Pea & Caramelized White Chocolate</strong><br>
An amalgamation of black-eyed bean ice cream, caramelized white chocolate, smoked apple compote, buckwheat oil, and kaluga hybrid caviar made for another super smart dessert that wowed me. I loved the earthy, grassy taste of the peas, and how that coalesced with the chocolate, while the apple and especially the caviar integrated with the ice cream beautifully.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01509.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Black Fig Tatin / Verbena Berry & Wasabi"><br>
<strong>13: Black Fig Tatin</strong><br>
<strong>14: Verbena Berry & Wasabi</strong><br>
The evening ended with a duo of petits fours. First was an untraditional tarte Tatin that united black figs and aniseed(?) caramel with a delightfully nutty, crumbly pastry crust. There was also a raspberry and verbena gel, which I found surprisingly minty and even a bit beguiling.
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I came into Ikoyi expecting it to be more or less a modern Nigerian restaurant, but I'm not so sure that's the best description of this place. Chan is certainly drawing from the West African pantry, but he's incorporating those flavors in such a unique, ingenious manner. It's like he's using West African ingredients in a non-West African way, if that makes sense, and based on this meal, I can see that he's not afraid to pull in some Japanese influence as well. The end result is some genuinely original, difficult-to-label, boldly spice-driven, complex cooking like nothing I've tasted previously. I truly wonder if a restaurant like this has ever existed before. Ikoyi is indeed one to watch, and I'm very curious to see where Chan and his team take this.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_175400.jpg" width="400" height="400" border="3" alt="Savoy Hotel"><br>
Prior to dinner, I made it a point to stop by the legendary Savoy Hotel, located just a quarter-mile away from Ikoyi. I was here to pay a visit to the property's American Bar, a pioneering, iconic cocktail bar dating all the way back to 1893.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180654+20231016_180656+20231016_180658+20231016_180659+20231016_180701+20231016_180703.jpg" width="890" height="400" border="3" alt="American Bar"><br>
Here we see the view from the high table that I was seated at. Note the place's inviting Art Deco-inspired design.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180721l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180721.jpg" width="145" height="245" border="3" alt="American Bar Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180756l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180756.jpg" width="145" height="245" border="3" alt="American Bar Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180807l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180807.jpg" width="145" height="245" border="3" alt="American Bar Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180838l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180838.jpg" width="145" height="245" border="3" alt="American Bar Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180900l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180900.jpg" width="145" height="245" border="3" alt="American Bar Cocktail List"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180939l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180939.jpg" width="136" height="245" border="3" alt="American Bar Cocktail Background"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180947l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/20231016_180947.jpg" width="136" height="245" border="3" alt="American Bar Cocktail Background"></a><br>
Entitled "The Savoy: American Bar Journal," this evening's cocktail list was the creation of Head Bartender Chelsie Bailey, and was meant to highlight modern reimaginations of classic drinks. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01387.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Last Call"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01389.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Last Call (Poured)"><br>
<strong>Last Call [£40.00 ($48.91)]</strong> | Glenfiddich 21 Year Old Whisky, Walnut Wine, Chestnut Liqueur, Oloroso Sherry, Pedro Ximénez Sherry<br>
I began with what may very well be the best cocktail I've had all year. It had an astounding bouquet rife with rich, luxurious, port-like notes that immediately drew me in. Taking a sip, I found the concoction uncommonly silken, with an instantly recognizable base of Scotch supported by loads of dark fruit, raisin, and nuts, all of which just made me want to keep drinking. Absolutely moreish.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01395.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Olives & Rice Crackers"><br>
Complimentary snacks include pitted olives and spicy, <em>senbei</em>-style rice crackers.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231016-Ikoyi/DSC01397.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Cardamom Angel Face"><br>
<strong>Cardamom Angel Face [£23.00 ($28.12)]</strong> | Ki No Bi Gin, Avallen Calvados ecoSpirits, Apricot Wine, Cardamom Cream Soda<br>
Given the potency of my previous cocktail, my next one was on the fun, fizzy, refreshing side, and showed off easy-going orchard fruit flavors overarched by the fragrant spice of cardamom.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8667271330300336985.post-87934557043678565992023-10-15T19:05:00.000-07:002023-12-08T07:17:56.894-08:00Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (London, United Kingdom)<b><i>Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park<br>
66 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7LA, United Kingdom<br>
+44 20 7201 3833<br>
<a href="http://www.dinnerbyheston.co.uk" target="_blank">www.dinnerbyheston.co.uk</a><br>
Sun 10/15/2023, 07:05p-11:30p</i></b><br>
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/20231015_233150.jpg" width="533" height="400" border="3" alt="Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park">
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Given that I'd visited <a href="http://www.kevineats.com/2023/10/the-fat-duck-bray-united-kingdom.html" target="_blank">The Fat Duck</a> just days earlier, I thought it'd be nice to keep things in the Heston Blumenthal family for my second dinner in London. And indeed, this dinner was at Dinner (named so because of the shifting meaning of the word to refer to different meals throughout the day), the Chef's ode to British gastronomic history, set in the ever so posh Mandarin Oriental hotel in Knightsbridge. The genesis of this place began in the 1990s with Blumenthal's fascination with the culinary traditions of Britain's past. Therefore, when it came time to debut Dinner, he and his team, with the help of food historians, began performing significant research into the gastronomic history of the country, reading through cookbooks from hundreds of years ago and such. They then created modern renditions of those dishes.
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The restaurant thus launched at the end of January 2011 (replacing a spot called Foliage) with Head Chef Ashley Palmer-Watts running the show day-to-day. There was significant fanfare surrounding the place when it first opened, and indeed, a Michelin star soon arrived in October that year, followed by a second in September 2013, which has been retained. In 2012, Dinner landed on The World's 50 Best Restaurants list at the #9 spot, rising to #7 in 2013 and #5 in 2014, before falling to #45 by 2018 and completely off the top 50 thereafter.
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Palmer-Watts left Dinner in December 2019, and was superseded by Jon Miles-Bowring. Bowring himself decamped earlier this year, and was replaced in May by Cambridge native Adam Tooby-Desmond, an alumnus of Westminster Kingsway College and St John's College, Cambridge. After spending two years at Alimentum under Mark Poynton, he moved to London and joined the team here in 2017 as a demi chef de partie, subsequently working his way up the ladder. Meanwhile, running the kitchen tonight was Senior Sous Chef Jake Oswin. Hailing from Kenilworth, Warwickshire, he started working at Dinner in October 2017, following five years at The Ritz.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/20231015_232826+20231015_232828+20231015_232830.jpg" width="985" height="400" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Dining Room"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/20231015_193326+20231015_193328+20231015_193331+20231015_193332.jpg" width="1130" height="400" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Interior"><br>
Penned by Adam Tihany, Dinner's dining room is a handsome, fairly subdued space.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/20231015_232810.jpg" width="540" height="360" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Private Dining Room"><br>
Here we see the 12-seater private dining room, which incorporates some rather striking high-backed, velvet-covered chairs set around a rosewood-sapele table. In addition, there's a six-seat Chef's Table with a view into the kitchen (not pictured).
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01369l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01369.jpg" width="110" height="260" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Tasting Menu"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01370l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01370.jpg" width="110" height="260" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Tasting Menu (Sources of Origin)"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01371l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01371.jpg" width="110" height="260" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Wine Pairings"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01372l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01372.jpg" width="110" height="260" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Menu: Starters"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01375l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01375.jpg" width="110" height="260" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Menu: Starters (Sources of Origin)"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01373l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01373.jpg" width="110" height="260" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Menu: Main"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01376l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01376.jpg" width="110" height="260" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Menu: Main (Sources of Origin)"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01374l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01374.jpg" width="110" height="260" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Menu: Dessert"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01377l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01377.jpg" width="110" height="260" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Menu: Dessert (Sources of Origin)"></a><br>
As for the menu, you can order à la carte or go (like I did) with the five-course tasting menu at £155 ($189.54) a head. Wine pairings were available at £135 ($165.08), £195 ($238.45), and a hefty £650 ($794.83), and there were also Champagne and non-alcoholic pairings at £265 ($324.04) and £75 ($91.71), respectively. The mostly Old World wine list can be seen <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/Dinner-by-Heston-Blumenthal-Wine-list_2023-09-26-104358_kdyh.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>, and there are also cocktail options (from the hotel's Mandarin Bar) and a handful of beers. Do note that all prices are exclusive of a 15% service charge. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01274.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Paul Rhodes Bread & Butter"><br>
Quick to arrive at the table were slices of naturally-leavened bread sourced from Paul Rhodes Bakery in Greenwich, over in the southeast of London. I quite enjoyed the nuttiness of the sourdough as well as its supple crumb, though I would've liked it crustier. Meanwhile, a lightly salted butter certainly met the mark.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01276.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Service Card"><br>
<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01378l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01378.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Service Card: Descriptions"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01379l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01379.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Service Card: The Adventurer"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01380l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01380.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Service Card: The Guide"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01381l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01381.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Service Card: The Maverick"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01382l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01382.jpg" width="211" height="300" border="3" alt="Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Service Card: Back Side"></a><br>
Next came something that I'd never encountered before at a restaurant. I was presented with the set of cards above, which dictate the level of detail that servers present regarding each dish. Perhaps not too surprisingly, I went with "The Maverick," with its maximized minutiae. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01270.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="New Cuban"><br>
<strong>New Cuban [£22.00 ($26.90)]</strong> | Havana 7 Rum, Discarded Banana Peel Rum, Lime, Mint, Shiso Angostura, Champagne<br>
I ended up going with cocktails tonight, and my first featured relatively restrained notes of banana, set against plenty of citrus and some astringent, bitter nuances, all while that rim gave the drink a sugary close.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01280.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Crab Tartlet"><br>
My amuse bouche tonight was a tartlet that combined the cool, sweet-n-saline nature of crab and trout roe with a bunch of fresh, fruity, herbaceous elements and a delightfully crisp pastry base.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01288.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Hay Smoked Salmon"><br>
<strong>1: Hay Smoked Salmon (c. 1730)</strong> | Lemon salad, gentleman's relish & sorrel<br>
Salmon was cured for two days, then smoked, giving it a dense, sticky consistency and a richness that matched up easily with bitter radicchio and the citrusy kick of both a lemon vinaigrette and a lemon fluid gel. At the same time, you also had garlic prepared in milk, while the creamy, piquant condiment on the bottom really tied it all together. A strong start.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01308.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Yin"><br>
<strong>Yin [£22.00 ($26.90)]</strong> | Maker's Mark, Honey Infused with Coffee Beans & Mushrooms, Maraschino Liqueur, Orange Tincture<br>
The evening's second cocktail was perhaps the most intriguing of the lot due to its assertive notes of mushroom, coffee, and bittersweet cacao, all accented by an aggressively salty rim.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01296.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Meat Fruit"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01304.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Meat Fruit (Inside)"><br>
<strong>2: Meat Fruit (c. 1500)</strong> | Mandarin, chicken liver parfait & grilled bread<br>
Naturally, I had to try Dinner's signature dish, a sort of <em>trompe-l'œil</em>, and it did not disappoint. It was some of the best chicken liver mousse I've had, with an elegant, earthy sweetness that contrasted effortlessly with the fruity "skin," all while that toasty bread provided a wonderful smoke and olive oil-enriched garlickiness.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01318.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Frumenty"><br>
<strong>3: Frumenty (c. 1390)</strong> | Octopus, spelt, smoked sea broth, pickled dulse & lovage<br>
Given my penchant for octo, I was of course looking forward to this next course. The octopus was superb texturally, with a lovely sear, and its salinity married seamlessly with all those pickle-y, vegetal bits, and especially the nuttiness of spelt.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01336.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Eternal Wisdom"><br>
<strong>Eternal Wisdom [£24.00 ($29.35)]</strong> | Courvoisier VSOP, Maker's Mark, Laphroaig 10yrs, Mancino Rosso, Aged in Claypot With Red Dates<br>
Served in a snifter, this next cocktail was on the contemplative side, with a bevy of smoky, spicy, aromatic notes that at times recalled tea.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01321.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Triple cooked chips"><br>
<strong>Triple cooked chips [£9.00 ($11.01)]</strong><br>
An order of Blumenthal's famed triple-cooked chips was certainly called for. I was a huge fan of their super crisp, shattery exteriors, while their insides were soft and pillowy. My concern here was that I wanted more salt.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01328.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Spiced Squab Pigeon"><br>
<strong>4: Spiced Squab Pigeon (c. 790)</strong> | Onions, artichokes, ale & malt<br>
Prepared sous vide, the squab showed off rich, robust, yet utterly refined flavors, with the wing portion being especially tasty. A heady, wine-y sauce further intensified the dish, while at the same time, the veggies and a nutty cream lightened the mood.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01342.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Jade Sunset"><br>
<strong>Jade Sunset [£21.00 ($25.68)]</strong> | Santa Teresa 1796 Rum, Lime, Toasted Bread Almond Milk, Burnt Orange & Pine Cordial<br>
Served in what appeared to be a traditional julep cup, this cocktail was generally easy-going, with nutty, citrusy flavors joined by an undercurrent of bittersweetness and the kick of that rum.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01346.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Roast Cod & Cockle Ketchup"><br>
<strong>Roast Cod & Cockle Ketchup (c. 1830) [£56.00 ($68.48)]</strong> | Cockles, leaf chicory and seaweed butter<br>
Cod arrived moist, springy, and oh-so flaky, with a great crust to boot. Its refined brine made sense with the sherry vinegar and white wine used in the dish, while the vegetables imparted a nice bit of zip. However, what really struck me here was that ketchup, which was unlike any other I'd had before due to its fascinating amalgam of sour, oceany, and herbaceous components.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01356.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Tipsy Cake"><br>
<strong>5: Tipsy Cake (c. 1858)</strong> | Spit roast pineapple<br>
Dinner's signature dessert managed to be another favorite tonight. The cake itself was brioche-like, arriving utterly rich, buttery, bittersweet, and delicious, with a beautifully crystallized top. However, even better was the pineapple, which was just super juicy, with a wonderfully rich, deep, caramelized sugariness that I reveled in. In fact, it's probably the best single piece of pineapple I've ever eaten.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01360.jpg" width="360" height="540" border="3" alt="Chamomile Manhattan"><br>
<strong>Chamomile Manhattan [£21.00 ($25.68)]</strong> | The Macallan Double Cask 12 Year Old, Maker's Mark, Fair Kumquat, Lillet Blanc, Chamomile<br>
My final cocktail was a Manhattan variation, one that displayed a fresh, citrusy nose backed by cacao. Tasting it, I got a plethora of herbal, medicinal notes, tempered just a touch by hints of fruit and the floral character of the drink's namesake chamomile.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/20231015_221118.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Nitrogen Ice Cream Trolley"><br>
<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01362.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream Cone"><br>
Of course, I couldn't resist ordering a tableside treat from Dinner's off-menu <strong>Nitrogen Ice Cream Trolley [£13.50 ($16.51)]</strong>. Constructed of Corian, the cart features a KitchenAid-esque hand-cranked mixer that combines liquid nitrogen and vanilla custard to a create a wonderfully smooth, but substantial ice cream, set in a sugary, shattery cone. Three toppings were available: strawberry crumble, raspberry meringue, and walnut praline. I ended up going with strawberry/walnut per my waiter's recommendation, and I loved the juxtaposition of those fruity and nutty notes. Excellent.
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<a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01383l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01383.jpg" width="432" height="300" border="3" alt="Mrs Agnes B. Marshall Info"></a> <a href="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01384l.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01384.jpg" width="432" height="300" border="3" alt="The Queen of Ice Cream Info"></a><br>
Along with the ice cream came a pamphlet detailing the history of English frozen dessert pioneer Agnes Marshall. Click for larger versions.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01368.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Gitesi Drip Filter Coffee"><br>
My final beverage was the <strong>Gitesi [£7.50 ($9.17)]</strong>, a drip filter coffee from Karongi, Western Province, Rwanda. Think light and tangy and fruity, with tea-like aromatics and hints of bell pepper.
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<img src="http://files.kevineats.com/pics/2023/231015-DinnerByHestonBlumenthal/DSC01366.jpg" width="720" height="480" border="3" alt="Salted Caramel Tartlet"><br>
Petit four duties were handled by this salted caramel tartlet, replete with crystallized chocolate and an almond crust.
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Although the hype behind Dinner has undoubtedly died down since the place opened, the restaurant still delivered a great meal tonight. I love the whole concept behind the cooking. The way that the team was able to draw inspiration from historical British cuisine and come up with modern dishes based on that was pretty clever--they've created something quite original here. Now given that, I'd actually like to see the kitchen be a bit more ambitious with the menu format. After all, a mere five courses for a tasting menu does seem a bit light, and I think that moving to something higher-end might help the restaurant re-garner some of the attention it's lost over the years.kevinEatshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13874030588556187843noreply@blogger.com4