San Laurel (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

San Laurel at Conrad Los Angeles
100 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213-349-8585
www.sanlaurel.com
Thu 08/14/2025, 08:10p-10:10p



I last reported on San Laurel back in September 2022, not long after the restaurant opened inside The Grand LA complex. I quite enjoyed my dinner there, so since I was recently looking to dine in DTLA, I figured it might be time to check in on the current state of the Cal-Spanish spot, which is still run day-to-day by Chef Jeffry Chen.


San Laurel's menu has retained its basic format, but fortunately, there's been quite a number of new dishes added since my last visit. Daily specials are also offered, but may run out quickly (as was the case with the artichokes and turbot this evening). Click for larger versions.



Although the menu has changed significantly over the past three years, I can't say the same about the cocktail list, which is almost identical, sadly. Also pictured are the restaurant's selection of beers, spirits, sherries, and sakes, along with the Spain-heavy wine list. Click for larger versions.



Jamón Ibérico de Bellota Cinco Jotas + Pa Amb Tomàquet [$40.00 + $10.00] | Hand-cut from the famous acorn-fed, black-footed Spanish pig + pan de cristal, tomato
It felt appropriate to start with a plate of Iberian ham. The cured pork had that slick, fatty consistency that you'd expect, along with a bevy of salty, savory, slightly nutty tastes. It was certainly enjoyable alone, but made sense with that airy, shattery, tomato-slathered pan con tomate on the side, too.


Coca Idiazabal [$23.00] | Olive oil cracker, membrillo, Idiazábal cheese
Up next was what has to be one of the best cheese-fruit pairings I've had in a while. I was a big fan of both the fluffiness and saltiness of the Idiazabal, and loved how that played with the dense, sugary, almost honeyed qualities of the quince paste, all while the dish's cracker base imparted both crunch and this rosemary-fueled zing.


Drink-wise, I got things going with a bottle of Cava, the 2012 Llopart, 'Leopardi', Xarel.lo, Parellada, Chardonnay [$115] (disgorged 2019 I believe), which I chose based on a positive experience I had with the producer at Estimar in Barcelona. The nose here was super concentrated, offering a plethora of oxidative, nutty notes backed by touches of yellow fruit and yeast. On the palate, I found a good amount of texture, along with lots more of those deep, sherry-like nuances, commingled with bruised orchard fruit and a subtle breadiness. Mature but still lively and vivacious, this was a wine simply full of personality.


Heirloom Tomato [$21.00] | Roasted piquillo crème fraîche, salsa macha, shiso, cilantro
The tomatoes managed to be a surprise standout. I loved how the fruit's bright, tart nature married with both the nutty heat of that salsa macha and the piquillo's vegetal-creamy-smoky qualities. The bitterness of the greens helped moderate the interaction, and I liked the crunchiness provided by all those nutty bits, too.


Asparagus with Romesco [$24.00] | Marcona almonds, hazelnuts, shaved raw asparagus
Here it was fun to contrast two expressions of asparagus: the lighter, shaved preparation and the more robust, smokier tips. At the same time, the romesco imparted a nutty piquancy to the dish that helped tie everything together, and there was this slight peppery kick on the back end that I appreciated as well.


Gambas [$43.00] | Aji amarillo & garlic emulsion, red pepper, potatoes
An untraditional take on gambas al zahara featuring well textured, aggressively briny shrimp set in a pleasantly peppery, garlicky sauce. Given all the potent flavors at play, those hefty potatoes were absolutely crucial for balance.


Hiramasa Crudo [$27.00] | Buttermilk leche de tigre, basil, cucumber caviar, pickled blueberries, fresno chili, herb oil, lime
There was quite a bit going on here--spicy, herby, sweet, astringent--but it all coalesced rather beautifully, enhancing those satisfyingly textured dices of yellowtail amberjack without ever getting in the way of the fish. Another favorite.


Japanese Milk Punch [$23.00] | Suntory Toki Japanese blended whiskey, yuzu, lemongrass, orange, lemon, nutmeg, clarified with milk
I did revisit a couple cocktails this evening, and first up was a clarified milk punch, one that was as soft and silken as I was expecting, and just teeming with florals and fruit. I was actually reminded a bit of lotion, curiously.


Pan De Cristal [$8.00]
A side of Catalan glass bread was used to mop up the two preceding courses.


Lubina [$44.00] | Donostiarra sauce, smoked trout roe, fennel & fine herbs
European seabass arrived expertly cooked, its smoky skin hiding some elegantly sweet, saline, well-textured flesh. The branzino was undoubtedly tasty alone, but also worked with the kick of the fennel and herbs, all while that Basque-inspired sauce imparted additional interest to the dish.


Foggy Hill [$22.00] | Del Maguey Vida mezcal, Yzaguirre 1884 Gran Reserva vermouth, Cynar, Aperol, orange-thyme aromatic cloud
The night's second cocktail was certainly on the boozier side, and did a commendable job combining the smokiness of mezcal with all of the drink's bittersweet, herby components.



Rack of Lamb [$67.00] | Bloomsdale spinach, pickled pearl onion, marigold oil, lamb cream
Lamb was pretty much spot-on in terms of texture, temperature, and taste, arriving delectably seasoned and nicely seared, with an effective counterpoint in the form of that spinach. Meanwhile, the lamb ribs were also served separately, and made for some satisfying gnawing.


Time for the sweet stuff. Pictured above are San Laurel's dessert menu and after-dinner drink offerings. Click for larger versions.


Tarta de Queso [$24.00] | Basque style "burnt" cheesecake
The Basque cheesecake met the mark, its unabashedly creamy, cheesy character melding swimmingly with the necessary elements of smoke and sear.


Espresso Martini [$22.00] | Ketel One, espresso, J. Rieger Caffe Amaro
Last to drink was the restaurant's version of the requisite vodka espresso, a respectable rendition of the drink that had all the roast and bittersweetness I wanted.


Since we were here for a birthday, we were provided with a complementary dessert: a citrusy, vanilla-boosted flan with whipped cream and salted pistachios.

I'm happy to report that San Laurel appears to be chugging along quite well. Jeff Chen's California-inflected Spanish cooking is considerably more interesting than what one might expect from a corporate hotel's all-day restaurant, and in fact, I'm tempted to deem this place one of the most underrated eateries in Downtown, and probably LA as a whole. Now unfortunately, José Andrés' other venture at the property, Agua Viva, hasn't been nearly as successful, and actually shuttered in November last year (it's now an event space called Alto). His high-end cocktail bar SED looks like it's never returning, and I still don't know if Bazaar Meat is ever coming to fruition, so hopefully the team at the Conrad will be able to pull things together in the future.