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posted by kevinEats at
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Sunday, April 26, 2026
Monday, April 13, 2026
Gokigen Tori (Culver City, CA)
Gokigen Tori Yakitori – Tokyo Chicken Firehouse
4410 Sepulveda Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230
310-437-0737
www.instagram.com/gokigenla/
Mon 04/13/2026, 07:15p-10:10p
As regular readers of this blog likely know, I'm quite the fan of yakitori, and yakitori-ya openings almost always catch my interest. A new-ish entrant into the scene is Gokigen Tori (ゴキゲン鳥, or "happy bird"), which bowed last April. I'd been meaning to check the place out from the get-go, but finally made it there recently after picking up some auction wines from K&L, which is located just up the street.
About the Chef: Our story begins with Kiyoshi Nagae (長榮潔, Nagae Kiyoshi), born in Tokyo in October 1980. He was a bit of a troublemaker in his younger years, and worked in some shady businesses in the vein of host clubs and the like. Fortunately, he got his act together when he transitioned to the restaurant industry. In summer 2010, at age 29, Nagae launched the first Gokigen Tori in Tokyo's Shimokitazawa neighborhood. He chose to focus on this style of cuisine after being disgusted by the quality of yakitori he'd had in France. From there, he opened up four additional stores, as well as two yakiniku-ya by the name of Jakunikukyōshoku (弱肉強食), all under the purview of Gokigen Family Co.
Given the success of the company, international expansion was the next step, and thus, in 2018, Nagae moved to Los Angeles alone and began setting the groundwork and scouting locations. However, three days before he was supposed to sign a lease on a space, the pandemic struck, compelling him to abandon his plans and return to Japan. Now back in Tokyo, he was forced to shutter all seven of his restaurants and let go of almost all his 88 employees.
Nagae subsequently hunkered down and rebuilt the business from a new headquarters in the district of Komazawa, in Tokyo's Setagaya ward. From there, he debuted another yakitori shop called Chicken Yarou (チキン野郎)--also known as Chicken Baka Yarou (チキン馬鹿野郎)--on the first floor of that building, and utilized the second floor for a new iteration of Jakuniku-Kyoushoku. Also new was a Gokigen Tori outpost in Nirasaki, Yamanashi Prefecture.
By 2022, COVID-19 restrictions had mostly lifted, and Nagae was back in Southern California. By April 2023, he had already secured a space for his LA restaurant. Interestingly, he also became involved in Taberu, and actually took over the Arts District izakaya in late summer 2024. However, things apparently didn't go according to plan, as the eatery wound up shuttering in early April this year, and has since rebranded to Bengara. In any case, work continued to progress for Gokigen Tori, and the yakitori shop was eventually able to grand-open on April 19th, 2025.
Gokigen Tori takes over a building that was previously home to Harajuku Taproom, and the likes of Grey Block Pizza, Abbot's Pizza, and Dolce Vita Bakery Café before that. As you can see, the space has been remodeled accordingly from the Harajuku days, with a 14-seater counter and grill taking the place of the former beer bar.
Here's the view from my seat, second position from the left. Note the calligraphy affixed to the rear wall, which reads 焼き鳥道 (yakitori michi, or "the way of yakitori") and was apparently penned by Nagae's friend Shunsuke Kiyokiba (清木場俊介).
As expected, Gokigen Tori's menu is centered on yakitori, but there's a pretty decent selection of non-skewered dishes available as well. In addition, omakase options are offered at $80, $120 (what I ended up going with), and $150 (unavailable this evening) price points. Beverage-wise, you'll find an array of sakes, shochus, beers, cocktails, and wines, while corkage is $30. Click for larger versions.
Pictured above is the place setting, replete with a custom-branded oshibori, served chilled.
1: Anchovy Yakko アンチョビ奴
Dinner commenced with a take on hiyayakko that juxtaposed the cool, mild qualities of tofu with the unabashed brininess of anchovies and salmon roe, the whole thing brightened up by a touch of greenery.
I was soon presented with the eight skewers that would form the main part of my set meal.
2: Hotaruika Yuzu Miso ホタルイカ柚子味噌
Firefly squid showed off a mix of creamy and oceany qualities, while serving as a foil was the piquancy of a citrusy miso dressing. The included seaweed was key, functioning as a moderating force in the dish, and I appreciated the almost bracing zestiness provided by the raw onion, too.
3: Hatsu はっ | Chicken Heart
My first skewer was one that I almost always tend to order. Kokoro (こころ) had that supple-but-"snappy" consistency I wanted, while flavors highlighted smoke and minerality, punctuated by pricks of what seemed like black pepper.
Tonight's twentieth anniversary bottle was the 2006 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Belle Epoque Brut Rosé, which comes to us from a well-known house that traces its founding all the way back to 1811. The wine showed superbly this evening, and just might be the best PJ I've tasted.
4: Gokigen Kushi ゴキゲン串 | Chicken Oyster: Juiciest Part of Chicken
Soriresu (ソリレス) is generally one of my favorite parts of the bird, and what we had here was no exception to that rule. I loved the smoky-saltiness from the skin, along with the seemingly extra-intense flavors of the meat. At the same time, I found the skewer's tender, yet somehow firm mouthfeel immensely gratifying. A definite standout.
5: Seasonal Sashimi 季節の刺身
The springtime treat of sakuradai (cherry blossom sea bream) ate clean and lean, its restrained nature taking nicely to a dab of soy. The king mackerel, on the other hand, veered softer and sweeter, while slices of tuna showcased deeper, more savory tastes that called for the sting of wasabi. And again, seaweed and shiso served to temper the stronger flavors at play.
6: Seseri せせり | Tender Chicken from Neck Area
Chicken neck demonstrated a pleasant chew and an understated flavor profile that matched up swimmingly with the sweet-savor of miso and the zing of all that Tokyo negi.
7: Chawanmushi 茶碗蒸し | Steamed Egg Custard
Tonight's chawanmushi was seemingly much more vinegar-y that most, which I didn't mind at all. The resulting tartness made sense with both uni and ikura, as well as the coziness of the dish's egg custard base. I liked that lone ginkgo in there at the bottom, too.
8: Tsukune つくね | Chicken Meatballs
Meatballs displayed a marked sweetness up front that quickly transitioned to elements of smoke, char, and subdued umami, while there was also a minty component in there, I'm assuming from the incorporation of shiso. Texturally, the ground meat held a middle ground--not too fine, not too gritty.
Manning the grill for most of the night was Daisuke Shindo (進藤大介), one of the younger team members (the blonde), who's been here since the restaurant opened and previously worked at Chicken Yarou. He was joined out front by one of Nagae's friends from the first grade: Jun Kojima (小島淳), who was actually a partner in the original 2010-era Gokigen Tori, but left the business after five years. Another first grade friend helping out is Kenichi Obonai (小保内健一), also known as Bokken (ぼっけん) or Ken, whom I believe I saw in the back kitchen.
9: Bonjiri ぼんじり | "Bon-Bon Jiri" – Chicken-Tail Skewers
I'm usually a big fan of tail, and indeed, the skewer didn't disappoint with its delectable interaction of smoke, fat, and flesh. All those crispy charred bits served as the consummate finishing touch.
10: Agedashi Sakuradai to Tofu 揚げ出し桜鯛と豆腐
Cherry blossom snapper arrived encased in a delicately fried exterior, the fish's finespun brine well conveyed. It was joined by a classic preparation of agedashi tofu, with said tofu really soaking in that sweet-n-savory tentsuyu broth.
11: A5 Wagyu 和牛串 | A5 Japanese Beef
Thankfully, Miyazaki wagyu and uni didn't get in each other's way. What came through first was the sweet-salinity of the sea urchin, which then led to the characteristically fatty, super-tender nature of the beef, with very little smoke making itself known in the process. I found a noticeable temperature contrast here, too.
12: Tebasaki 手羽先 | Crispy Grilled Chicken Wing
The teba was also a winner thanks to its sheer juiciness and savor, accented by well-placed hits of char and peppery spices. Can't go wrong with this.
13: Ginnan ぎんなん | Prized Grilled Ginkgo Nuts from Japan
I was also a fan of the ginkgo seeds. Think satisfyingly textured, with a great blend of bitter, nutty, and almost "eggy" flavors that went well with a sprinkle of salt.
14a: Sawara Takikomi Gohan 鰆炊き込みご飯
The appearance of the donabe course signaled the end of the set portion of my meal. The back-and-forth between the more saline mackerel and sweeter snow crab was pretty spot-on, with the ikura adding further interest to the dish and ginger contributing a zippy accent. The rice itself was also just what I was hoping for in terms of stickiness, and there was even a toasty layer of okoge that developed on the bottom of the clay pot.
14b: Chicken Bone-Broth Soup 鶏ガラスープ
Along with the rice above came a cup of niwatori garasūpu, which demonstrated the deep, concentrated essence of the bird, offset just enough by bits of onion.
Chicken Negima ねぎ間 [$6.00] | Chicken Thigh Pieces with Tokyo Negi
At this point, I decided to supplement my dinner with some extra skewers, starting with the classic pairing of thigh and green onion. I really enjoyed the sharp, smoky character of the negi and how that served as a counterpoint to chicken, though I would've liked more charring on the actual meat.
Sunagimo 砂肝 [$5.00] | Crunchy Chewy Chicken Gizzard
Zuri (ずり) had that "crunchy" consistency I was seeking, while flavors were pleasantly mineral-y and peppery.
Nankotsu なんこつ [$5.00] | Chicken Cartilage
I had no complaints with the yagen nankotsu (やげんなんこつ), with its proper ratio of cartilage-to-meat. Texturally, things were as they should be, and taste-wise, we're talking about smoke, savor, black pepper, and what seemed like citrus.
Reba レバー [$6.00] | Chicken Liver
I requested my reba rare, and the kitchen delivered. The skewer presented both sweet and earthy flavors in balance, and in terms of mouthfeel, the "graininess" oft encountered with liver was limited.
Ajisai [$13.00] | Blueberry
With the wine drunk up, I requested a shochu cocktail. To no one's surprise, this was an easy-going, quaffable concoction, with familiar berry flavors and not much booziness.
Kawa 皮 [$6.00] | Crispy Chicken Skin
My final chicken skewer was the torikawa (とりかわ), which arrived chewy, fatty, and a bit gelatinous, with a permeating smoke.
Jaga Butter じゃがバター [$10.00] | Signature Baked Potato with Salt & Butter
Given my propensity for potatoes, this was a must-try. The jagaimo came out hefty and hearty, and was well accompanied by both pats of butter and pinpricks of salt.
Japanese Mountain Yam 長芋 [$6.00] | Grilled for Max Umami Crunch w/ Bonito
Stout cylinders of nagaimo ate crunchy and slightly mucilaginous, with a welcomed umami component from the generous amount of katsuobushi. However, I would've liked a harder char on the yam.
Tama Negi 玉葱丸ごと炭火焼き [$9.00] | Whole Onion Grilled on Charcoal
My final savory dish was the whole tamanegi, with its inviting sweetness tinged with just enough smoke.
Coming out with dessert was a complimentary cup of hot, roasty green tea.
15: Tokyo Purin 東京プリン | Japanese Showa-Style Crème Caramel
Dessert duties were handled by a Japanese flan, with its classically smooth, creamy consistency and sugary, caramelized flavors.
I'm glad to report that I ended up quite happy with my meal tonight. There was a nice range to what I was served, with the skewers mostly well-infused with the character of the binchotan grill, while the non-kushi dishes also met the mark. All things considered, I would have to deem Gokigen Tori among the top yakitori spots in LA, and a must-visit if you're a fan of this style of cooking.
4410 Sepulveda Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230
310-437-0737
www.instagram.com/gokigenla/
Mon 04/13/2026, 07:15p-10:10p
As regular readers of this blog likely know, I'm quite the fan of yakitori, and yakitori-ya openings almost always catch my interest. A new-ish entrant into the scene is Gokigen Tori (ゴキゲン鳥, or "happy bird"), which bowed last April. I'd been meaning to check the place out from the get-go, but finally made it there recently after picking up some auction wines from K&L, which is located just up the street.
About the Chef: Our story begins with Kiyoshi Nagae (長榮潔, Nagae Kiyoshi), born in Tokyo in October 1980. He was a bit of a troublemaker in his younger years, and worked in some shady businesses in the vein of host clubs and the like. Fortunately, he got his act together when he transitioned to the restaurant industry. In summer 2010, at age 29, Nagae launched the first Gokigen Tori in Tokyo's Shimokitazawa neighborhood. He chose to focus on this style of cuisine after being disgusted by the quality of yakitori he'd had in France. From there, he opened up four additional stores, as well as two yakiniku-ya by the name of Jakunikukyōshoku (弱肉強食), all under the purview of Gokigen Family Co.
Given the success of the company, international expansion was the next step, and thus, in 2018, Nagae moved to Los Angeles alone and began setting the groundwork and scouting locations. However, three days before he was supposed to sign a lease on a space, the pandemic struck, compelling him to abandon his plans and return to Japan. Now back in Tokyo, he was forced to shutter all seven of his restaurants and let go of almost all his 88 employees.
Nagae subsequently hunkered down and rebuilt the business from a new headquarters in the district of Komazawa, in Tokyo's Setagaya ward. From there, he debuted another yakitori shop called Chicken Yarou (チキン野郎)--also known as Chicken Baka Yarou (チキン馬鹿野郎)--on the first floor of that building, and utilized the second floor for a new iteration of Jakuniku-Kyoushoku. Also new was a Gokigen Tori outpost in Nirasaki, Yamanashi Prefecture.
By 2022, COVID-19 restrictions had mostly lifted, and Nagae was back in Southern California. By April 2023, he had already secured a space for his LA restaurant. Interestingly, he also became involved in Taberu, and actually took over the Arts District izakaya in late summer 2024. However, things apparently didn't go according to plan, as the eatery wound up shuttering in early April this year, and has since rebranded to Bengara. In any case, work continued to progress for Gokigen Tori, and the yakitori shop was eventually able to grand-open on April 19th, 2025.
Gokigen Tori takes over a building that was previously home to Harajuku Taproom, and the likes of Grey Block Pizza, Abbot's Pizza, and Dolce Vita Bakery Café before that. As you can see, the space has been remodeled accordingly from the Harajuku days, with a 14-seater counter and grill taking the place of the former beer bar.
Here's the view from my seat, second position from the left. Note the calligraphy affixed to the rear wall, which reads 焼き鳥道 (yakitori michi, or "the way of yakitori") and was apparently penned by Nagae's friend Shunsuke Kiyokiba (清木場俊介).
As expected, Gokigen Tori's menu is centered on yakitori, but there's a pretty decent selection of non-skewered dishes available as well. In addition, omakase options are offered at $80, $120 (what I ended up going with), and $150 (unavailable this evening) price points. Beverage-wise, you'll find an array of sakes, shochus, beers, cocktails, and wines, while corkage is $30. Click for larger versions.
Pictured above is the place setting, replete with a custom-branded oshibori, served chilled.
1: Anchovy Yakko アンチョビ奴
Dinner commenced with a take on hiyayakko that juxtaposed the cool, mild qualities of tofu with the unabashed brininess of anchovies and salmon roe, the whole thing brightened up by a touch of greenery.
I was soon presented with the eight skewers that would form the main part of my set meal.
2: Hotaruika Yuzu Miso ホタルイカ柚子味噌
Firefly squid showed off a mix of creamy and oceany qualities, while serving as a foil was the piquancy of a citrusy miso dressing. The included seaweed was key, functioning as a moderating force in the dish, and I appreciated the almost bracing zestiness provided by the raw onion, too.
3: Hatsu はっ | Chicken Heart
My first skewer was one that I almost always tend to order. Kokoro (こころ) had that supple-but-"snappy" consistency I wanted, while flavors highlighted smoke and minerality, punctuated by pricks of what seemed like black pepper.
Tonight's twentieth anniversary bottle was the 2006 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Belle Epoque Brut Rosé, which comes to us from a well-known house that traces its founding all the way back to 1811. The wine showed superbly this evening, and just might be the best PJ I've tasted.
- Initial Impressions: Lush, inviting nose of ripe apples, yeast, and quince preserves. The palate offered an appealing mélange of freshness and maturity, its flavors of toast and orchard fruits bolstered by a very agreeable acidity.
- After 30 Minutes: The bouquet really began highlighting a familiar sweetness reminiscent of the Mott's apple juice of my childhood. In the mouth, the presentation was more in line with that of a refreshing apple cider, one backed by a nutty, bitter underpinning.
- After 90 Minutes: At this point, aromas were heading in a saline direction, but one laced with dark stone fruits. Palate-wise, I started noticing oxidative, warmly-spiced nuances, along with plenty of those aforementioned bitter-nutty sensations.
4: Gokigen Kushi ゴキゲン串 | Chicken Oyster: Juiciest Part of Chicken
Soriresu (ソリレス) is generally one of my favorite parts of the bird, and what we had here was no exception to that rule. I loved the smoky-saltiness from the skin, along with the seemingly extra-intense flavors of the meat. At the same time, I found the skewer's tender, yet somehow firm mouthfeel immensely gratifying. A definite standout.
5: Seasonal Sashimi 季節の刺身
The springtime treat of sakuradai (cherry blossom sea bream) ate clean and lean, its restrained nature taking nicely to a dab of soy. The king mackerel, on the other hand, veered softer and sweeter, while slices of tuna showcased deeper, more savory tastes that called for the sting of wasabi. And again, seaweed and shiso served to temper the stronger flavors at play.
6: Seseri せせり | Tender Chicken from Neck Area
Chicken neck demonstrated a pleasant chew and an understated flavor profile that matched up swimmingly with the sweet-savor of miso and the zing of all that Tokyo negi.
7: Chawanmushi 茶碗蒸し | Steamed Egg Custard
Tonight's chawanmushi was seemingly much more vinegar-y that most, which I didn't mind at all. The resulting tartness made sense with both uni and ikura, as well as the coziness of the dish's egg custard base. I liked that lone ginkgo in there at the bottom, too.
8: Tsukune つくね | Chicken Meatballs
Meatballs displayed a marked sweetness up front that quickly transitioned to elements of smoke, char, and subdued umami, while there was also a minty component in there, I'm assuming from the incorporation of shiso. Texturally, the ground meat held a middle ground--not too fine, not too gritty.
Manning the grill for most of the night was Daisuke Shindo (進藤大介), one of the younger team members (the blonde), who's been here since the restaurant opened and previously worked at Chicken Yarou. He was joined out front by one of Nagae's friends from the first grade: Jun Kojima (小島淳), who was actually a partner in the original 2010-era Gokigen Tori, but left the business after five years. Another first grade friend helping out is Kenichi Obonai (小保内健一), also known as Bokken (ぼっけん) or Ken, whom I believe I saw in the back kitchen.
9: Bonjiri ぼんじり | "Bon-Bon Jiri" – Chicken-Tail Skewers
I'm usually a big fan of tail, and indeed, the skewer didn't disappoint with its delectable interaction of smoke, fat, and flesh. All those crispy charred bits served as the consummate finishing touch.
10: Agedashi Sakuradai to Tofu 揚げ出し桜鯛と豆腐
Cherry blossom snapper arrived encased in a delicately fried exterior, the fish's finespun brine well conveyed. It was joined by a classic preparation of agedashi tofu, with said tofu really soaking in that sweet-n-savory tentsuyu broth.
11: A5 Wagyu 和牛串 | A5 Japanese Beef
Thankfully, Miyazaki wagyu and uni didn't get in each other's way. What came through first was the sweet-salinity of the sea urchin, which then led to the characteristically fatty, super-tender nature of the beef, with very little smoke making itself known in the process. I found a noticeable temperature contrast here, too.
12: Tebasaki 手羽先 | Crispy Grilled Chicken Wing
The teba was also a winner thanks to its sheer juiciness and savor, accented by well-placed hits of char and peppery spices. Can't go wrong with this.
13: Ginnan ぎんなん | Prized Grilled Ginkgo Nuts from Japan
I was also a fan of the ginkgo seeds. Think satisfyingly textured, with a great blend of bitter, nutty, and almost "eggy" flavors that went well with a sprinkle of salt.
14a: Sawara Takikomi Gohan 鰆炊き込みご飯
The appearance of the donabe course signaled the end of the set portion of my meal. The back-and-forth between the more saline mackerel and sweeter snow crab was pretty spot-on, with the ikura adding further interest to the dish and ginger contributing a zippy accent. The rice itself was also just what I was hoping for in terms of stickiness, and there was even a toasty layer of okoge that developed on the bottom of the clay pot.
14b: Chicken Bone-Broth Soup 鶏ガラスープ
Along with the rice above came a cup of niwatori garasūpu, which demonstrated the deep, concentrated essence of the bird, offset just enough by bits of onion.
Chicken Negima ねぎ間 [$6.00] | Chicken Thigh Pieces with Tokyo Negi
At this point, I decided to supplement my dinner with some extra skewers, starting with the classic pairing of thigh and green onion. I really enjoyed the sharp, smoky character of the negi and how that served as a counterpoint to chicken, though I would've liked more charring on the actual meat.
Sunagimo 砂肝 [$5.00] | Crunchy Chewy Chicken Gizzard
Zuri (ずり) had that "crunchy" consistency I was seeking, while flavors were pleasantly mineral-y and peppery.
Nankotsu なんこつ [$5.00] | Chicken Cartilage
I had no complaints with the yagen nankotsu (やげんなんこつ), with its proper ratio of cartilage-to-meat. Texturally, things were as they should be, and taste-wise, we're talking about smoke, savor, black pepper, and what seemed like citrus.
Reba レバー [$6.00] | Chicken Liver
I requested my reba rare, and the kitchen delivered. The skewer presented both sweet and earthy flavors in balance, and in terms of mouthfeel, the "graininess" oft encountered with liver was limited.
Ajisai [$13.00] | Blueberry
With the wine drunk up, I requested a shochu cocktail. To no one's surprise, this was an easy-going, quaffable concoction, with familiar berry flavors and not much booziness.
Kawa 皮 [$6.00] | Crispy Chicken Skin
My final chicken skewer was the torikawa (とりかわ), which arrived chewy, fatty, and a bit gelatinous, with a permeating smoke.
Jaga Butter じゃがバター [$10.00] | Signature Baked Potato with Salt & Butter
Given my propensity for potatoes, this was a must-try. The jagaimo came out hefty and hearty, and was well accompanied by both pats of butter and pinpricks of salt.
Japanese Mountain Yam 長芋 [$6.00] | Grilled for Max Umami Crunch w/ Bonito
Stout cylinders of nagaimo ate crunchy and slightly mucilaginous, with a welcomed umami component from the generous amount of katsuobushi. However, I would've liked a harder char on the yam.
Tama Negi 玉葱丸ごと炭火焼き [$9.00] | Whole Onion Grilled on Charcoal
My final savory dish was the whole tamanegi, with its inviting sweetness tinged with just enough smoke.
Coming out with dessert was a complimentary cup of hot, roasty green tea.
15: Tokyo Purin 東京プリン | Japanese Showa-Style Crème Caramel
Dessert duties were handled by a Japanese flan, with its classically smooth, creamy consistency and sugary, caramelized flavors.
I'm glad to report that I ended up quite happy with my meal tonight. There was a nice range to what I was served, with the skewers mostly well-infused with the character of the binchotan grill, while the non-kushi dishes also met the mark. All things considered, I would have to deem Gokigen Tori among the top yakitori spots in LA, and a must-visit if you're a fan of this style of cooking.
posted by kevinEats at
7:15 PM
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