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posted by kevinEats at
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Friday, January 09, 2026
Friday, December 19, 2025
Osusume Fumio (Los Angeles, CA)
Osusume Fumio Sushi
3133 Glendale Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90039
323-284-8412
www.instagram.com/osusume.fumio/
Fri 12/19/2025, 12:00p-02:45p
You might recall that I recently posted about an experience I had at Kogane back in October. The impetus for that dinner was the news that Chef Fumio Azumi would be leaving the sushi-ya, and indeed, that's just what happened a few days after my meal. As for Azumi-san's next steps, the goal was to launch his first solo venture, Osusume Fumio (おすすめ 文郎, or "Fumio's recommendation"), and somewhat surprisingly, things went pretty much according to plan. The restaurant soft-opened at the end of October, while its grand-opening was on November 4th, and I was eager to check the place out, hence this visit.
Osusume Fumio takes over the former Atwater Village home of Morihiro. Decor-wise, things haven't really changed, though the tables have been removed, as the team is focused on sushi counter service at this point.
And speaking of the sushi bar, it seats up to seven, and I was placed at the far-right end. And even from there, the view wasn't bad, as we see here.
Osusume Fumio's nigiri-centric menu is shown above. The lunch omakase I had was priced at a reasonable $120 a head ($160 for dinner), and there were also a number of optional supplemental dishes available, pretty much all of which I tacked on. To drink, you'll find a short sake list and a smattering of beer, while corkage is $50 per bottle, or $100 per magnum. Click for larger versions.
The welcome card is both a holdover from the Kogane days and a thoughtful touch.
The platter for sushi was presented right from the get-go. The included ginger, meanwhile, was pretty prototypical, though maybe just a tad sweeter than most.
Supplement: Kegani Appetizer [$35.00]
Given that we were in the midst of the season, it made sense to start with some horsehair crab. The hairy crab's sweetness was on point, as was its subtler savory and saline nuances, while a condiment incorporating kanimiso imparted additional depth. Also provided was a vinegar-y dipping sauce that helped brighten things up.
A warm, wetted towelette was a welcomed nicety given the manual work required for the course above.
Supplement: Mushi Awabi, Steam Abalone [$14.00]
Steamed Ezo abalone from Hokkaido displayed a wondrously supple yet "snappy" consistency, and its refined, umami-packed flavors were amped up by the earthiness of its innards.
First to imbibe was some BYOB'd Alsatian Riesling, the 2012 Hugel Riesling Schoelhammer. I found an appealing nose brimming with tropical fruit, petrol, and light florals. On the palate, the wine brought more tropical fruits, along with citrus, a touch of herb, traces of minerality, and a pleasing acidity. This is a style that I don't often pair with sushi, but I have to say that it worked out quite well.
1: Matsukawa Karei
Kicking things off sushi-wise was barfin flounder, a rather uncommon sight at sushi spots around these parts. I was impressed by its ample sweetness and umami, and how that married with both the wasabi and the "grain-y" character of the rice. Nice texture on the flatfish, too.
2: Akashi Tai
Red sea bream caught in the Akashi Strait showed off a delightful chew, along with plenty of sweet-n-savory, and juxtaposed swimmingly with both the wasabi and the nuttier nature of that shari.
3: Hotate
Scallop was what I wanted texturally, and its sweet-salinity was well-matched by pricks of salt and citrus, all while the neutrality of the rice grounded the bite.
4: Dry Age Bluefin Akami (23 days)
Dry-aged tuna had all the richness and umami I was looking for, but was also noticeably sweeter than most, almost veering "fruity" at times. Thus, the mild sumeshi was key for balance.
5: Dry Age Bluefin Toro (23 days)
Compared to the cut above, tuna belly was an altogether different eating experience, and on another level in terms of fattiness and sheer lusciousness. Thus, the rice was especially crucial for contrast. You'll notice that it's noticeably darker in color due to the heavy presence of akazu, and also possessed a more robust, almost "crunchy" texture.
6: Sayori
Needlefish is something I don't see all that often on sushi menus, so I was happy to encounter it today. The halfbeak had a real delicacy to its taste, and seemed to draw out the flavors of the seemingly stickier-than-usual rice, while the wasabi also made itself known.
Next to drink was the 2025 Dassai Future with Farmers Junmai Daiginjo (獺祭 未来へ農家と共に 純米大吟醸), a nihonshu with a rather unusual concept. The idea is that it makes use of ungraded (togai) Yamada Nishiki rice that would otherwise be rejected for sake production due to lacking enough of a starchy core (shinpaku) or being misshapen. This rice is then polished down to a super-low seimai-buai of 8%, with the whole process being a nod to both sustainability and the brewery's support of farmers. In any case, the bouquet here conveyed juicy melon and fruit cocktail undergirded by a palpable "graininess." Palate-wise, I found this generally round, with touches of tartness and spice go along with its sweet, ricey, somewhat rustic qualities. This is a pretty unique product, one that I'm glad I got to sample.
7: White Fish Broth Miso Soup
The requisite miso soup boasted extra complexity compared to most, thanks to what I assume must be the incorporation of the advertised whitefish.
Supplement: Shirako [$12.00]
The soft roe was definitely a standout. I loved its deeply savory, saline flavors, boosted by the smoky tang of a yuzu ankake, with the zestiness of the scallions serving as the consummate foil to it all. A contender for the best cod milt I've had.
8: Botan Ebi
Getting back into the sushi now, spot prawn was spot-on texturally, and offered a sweetness that linked up well with the wasabi, while you had the soft-ish rice moderating the whole interaction.
9: Sawara
King mackerel featured a mouthwateringly smoky sear, and the bite's assertive flavors were nicely matched by that warm, firm rice.
10: Aji
Spanish mackerel perfectly played its sophisticated salinity against both the zing of scallion and the Chef's aggressive rice, and the overall effect actually reminded me of sour cream and onion dip, humorously enough.
11: Kinmedai
Golden eye snapper is typically a favorite of mine, and the fish didn't disappoint me today. The splendid alfonsino had a fantastic smoke to it, and paired effortlessly with that chewy, tangy rice.
A second preparation of ginger arrived at this point, one that proffered a softer spiciness and a more substantial texture.
Beverage-wise, I now moved on to some beer, beginning with the Suruga Bay Imperial IPA [$10], which comes to us from Baird Brewing Company out of Shuzenji (Izu), Shizuoka. A double IPA that was double dry-hopped, the brew demonstrated an agreeable hop bitterness underpinned by a balanced amalgam of fruity, malty notes.
12: Uni
Today's sea urchin was sourced from Hokkaido Nemuro Maruichi Suisan (北海道 根室 マルイチ 水産). The roe's sweet, creamy, oceany nature was proudly presented, countered by tart rice and, just as importantly, the grassy umami of that seaweed wrapper.
Here we see Azumi-san dispatching shrimp for the next course.
Supplement: Kuruma Ebi, JP Tiger Prawn [$25.00]
Boiled Japanese tiger prawn arrived pleasantly firm to the bite, its considerable sweetness meshing easily with that vinegar-y rice and the burn of wasabi.
Supplement: Kohada, Gizzard Shad [$8.00]
A comely cut of gizzard shad certainly delivered. The key was the interplay between the fish's simultaneously sweet and saline tastes, evened out by that sturdy, red vinegar'd rice.
Supplement: Engawa, Flounder's Fin
Flounder fin was charmingly chewy, with a marked sweetness that went well with the kick of wasabi. Do note that this bite ended up being on the house, as the Chef only had a small portion left to serve.
My second bottle from Baird was the Numazu Lager [$10]. The beer went in a generally easy-drinking direction, but still kept things interesting enough thanks to its palpably grain-y properties and relatively robust mouthfeel.
13: Torotaku Handroll
The toro-taku is quickly becoming my favorite type of hand roll due to how well it combines pickle-y takuan with fatty tuna and nori, and this was a prime example of such.
Fumio-san preparing fancy sea urchin for the course below.
Supplement: Auction Grade Hadate Purple Uni [$35.00]
Here we had kita-murasaki uni from Hakodate, Hokkaido, obtained from well-regarded producer Hadate Suisan (羽立水産株式会社). Compared with the bafun uni, this actually gave quite a different impression, presenting itself as less overtly sweet and less creamy. Instead, the sea urchin was a bit more contemplative taste-wise, exhibiting more of a mineral-driven, briny disposition that was pretty unmatched in its elegance. And again, great counterpoint in the form of that seaweed.
14: Anago
Conger eel showcased its signature mix of sweetness and savor, while the touch of crispness on the outside contrasted well with the fish's tender interior.
As we neared the end of the meal, a complimentary serving of Yamagata Masamune Junmai Ginjo Omachi sake appeared, meant to go along with the clam below. Think sweet and fruity at first blush, but with an earthy, ricey, slightly hot backing.
Supplement: Hokki, JP Surf Clam [$8.00]
Hokkigai is another uncommon neta that I was happy to see on offer. In terms of texture, think supple, satisfying, and a good match with the firm rice. Meanwhile, the clam's sweetness and salinity were joined by a smokiness that really sealed the deal for me.
15: Tamago
Last up was a cake-like tamagoyaki that was imbued with more piquancy than most, served directly into my hand. A fitting closer.
I normally don't eat a proper, long-format lunch, but I'm happy I made the effort today, as I had a great time here. Azumi-san didn't miss a beat, delivering hit after hit with nary a miss, while service, coordinated by Natsuko Aizawa Azumi (the Chef's wife) was as affable as it was effectual. I was afraid that Osusume Fumio would be a big step down from what I'd experienced at Kogane, but thankfully that looks not to be the case. I'm glad that the Chef has finally found a permanent home, and I'm sure I'll eventually pay him another visit (probably for dinner).
3133 Glendale Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90039
323-284-8412
www.instagram.com/osusume.fumio/
Fri 12/19/2025, 12:00p-02:45p
You might recall that I recently posted about an experience I had at Kogane back in October. The impetus for that dinner was the news that Chef Fumio Azumi would be leaving the sushi-ya, and indeed, that's just what happened a few days after my meal. As for Azumi-san's next steps, the goal was to launch his first solo venture, Osusume Fumio (おすすめ 文郎, or "Fumio's recommendation"), and somewhat surprisingly, things went pretty much according to plan. The restaurant soft-opened at the end of October, while its grand-opening was on November 4th, and I was eager to check the place out, hence this visit.
Osusume Fumio takes over the former Atwater Village home of Morihiro. Decor-wise, things haven't really changed, though the tables have been removed, as the team is focused on sushi counter service at this point.
And speaking of the sushi bar, it seats up to seven, and I was placed at the far-right end. And even from there, the view wasn't bad, as we see here.
Osusume Fumio's nigiri-centric menu is shown above. The lunch omakase I had was priced at a reasonable $120 a head ($160 for dinner), and there were also a number of optional supplemental dishes available, pretty much all of which I tacked on. To drink, you'll find a short sake list and a smattering of beer, while corkage is $50 per bottle, or $100 per magnum. Click for larger versions.
The welcome card is both a holdover from the Kogane days and a thoughtful touch.
The platter for sushi was presented right from the get-go. The included ginger, meanwhile, was pretty prototypical, though maybe just a tad sweeter than most.
Supplement: Kegani Appetizer [$35.00]
Given that we were in the midst of the season, it made sense to start with some horsehair crab. The hairy crab's sweetness was on point, as was its subtler savory and saline nuances, while a condiment incorporating kanimiso imparted additional depth. Also provided was a vinegar-y dipping sauce that helped brighten things up.
A warm, wetted towelette was a welcomed nicety given the manual work required for the course above.
Supplement: Mushi Awabi, Steam Abalone [$14.00]
Steamed Ezo abalone from Hokkaido displayed a wondrously supple yet "snappy" consistency, and its refined, umami-packed flavors were amped up by the earthiness of its innards.
First to imbibe was some BYOB'd Alsatian Riesling, the 2012 Hugel Riesling Schoelhammer. I found an appealing nose brimming with tropical fruit, petrol, and light florals. On the palate, the wine brought more tropical fruits, along with citrus, a touch of herb, traces of minerality, and a pleasing acidity. This is a style that I don't often pair with sushi, but I have to say that it worked out quite well.
1: Matsukawa Karei
Kicking things off sushi-wise was barfin flounder, a rather uncommon sight at sushi spots around these parts. I was impressed by its ample sweetness and umami, and how that married with both the wasabi and the "grain-y" character of the rice. Nice texture on the flatfish, too.
2: Akashi Tai
Red sea bream caught in the Akashi Strait showed off a delightful chew, along with plenty of sweet-n-savory, and juxtaposed swimmingly with both the wasabi and the nuttier nature of that shari.
3: Hotate
Scallop was what I wanted texturally, and its sweet-salinity was well-matched by pricks of salt and citrus, all while the neutrality of the rice grounded the bite.
4: Dry Age Bluefin Akami (23 days)
Dry-aged tuna had all the richness and umami I was looking for, but was also noticeably sweeter than most, almost veering "fruity" at times. Thus, the mild sumeshi was key for balance.
5: Dry Age Bluefin Toro (23 days)
Compared to the cut above, tuna belly was an altogether different eating experience, and on another level in terms of fattiness and sheer lusciousness. Thus, the rice was especially crucial for contrast. You'll notice that it's noticeably darker in color due to the heavy presence of akazu, and also possessed a more robust, almost "crunchy" texture.
6: Sayori
Needlefish is something I don't see all that often on sushi menus, so I was happy to encounter it today. The halfbeak had a real delicacy to its taste, and seemed to draw out the flavors of the seemingly stickier-than-usual rice, while the wasabi also made itself known.
Next to drink was the 2025 Dassai Future with Farmers Junmai Daiginjo (獺祭 未来へ農家と共に 純米大吟醸), a nihonshu with a rather unusual concept. The idea is that it makes use of ungraded (togai) Yamada Nishiki rice that would otherwise be rejected for sake production due to lacking enough of a starchy core (shinpaku) or being misshapen. This rice is then polished down to a super-low seimai-buai of 8%, with the whole process being a nod to both sustainability and the brewery's support of farmers. In any case, the bouquet here conveyed juicy melon and fruit cocktail undergirded by a palpable "graininess." Palate-wise, I found this generally round, with touches of tartness and spice go along with its sweet, ricey, somewhat rustic qualities. This is a pretty unique product, one that I'm glad I got to sample.
7: White Fish Broth Miso Soup
The requisite miso soup boasted extra complexity compared to most, thanks to what I assume must be the incorporation of the advertised whitefish.
Supplement: Shirako [$12.00]
The soft roe was definitely a standout. I loved its deeply savory, saline flavors, boosted by the smoky tang of a yuzu ankake, with the zestiness of the scallions serving as the consummate foil to it all. A contender for the best cod milt I've had.
8: Botan Ebi
Getting back into the sushi now, spot prawn was spot-on texturally, and offered a sweetness that linked up well with the wasabi, while you had the soft-ish rice moderating the whole interaction.
9: Sawara
King mackerel featured a mouthwateringly smoky sear, and the bite's assertive flavors were nicely matched by that warm, firm rice.
10: Aji
Spanish mackerel perfectly played its sophisticated salinity against both the zing of scallion and the Chef's aggressive rice, and the overall effect actually reminded me of sour cream and onion dip, humorously enough.
11: Kinmedai
Golden eye snapper is typically a favorite of mine, and the fish didn't disappoint me today. The splendid alfonsino had a fantastic smoke to it, and paired effortlessly with that chewy, tangy rice.
A second preparation of ginger arrived at this point, one that proffered a softer spiciness and a more substantial texture.
Beverage-wise, I now moved on to some beer, beginning with the Suruga Bay Imperial IPA [$10], which comes to us from Baird Brewing Company out of Shuzenji (Izu), Shizuoka. A double IPA that was double dry-hopped, the brew demonstrated an agreeable hop bitterness underpinned by a balanced amalgam of fruity, malty notes.
12: Uni
Today's sea urchin was sourced from Hokkaido Nemuro Maruichi Suisan (北海道 根室 マルイチ 水産). The roe's sweet, creamy, oceany nature was proudly presented, countered by tart rice and, just as importantly, the grassy umami of that seaweed wrapper.
Here we see Azumi-san dispatching shrimp for the next course.
Supplement: Kuruma Ebi, JP Tiger Prawn [$25.00]
Boiled Japanese tiger prawn arrived pleasantly firm to the bite, its considerable sweetness meshing easily with that vinegar-y rice and the burn of wasabi.
Supplement: Kohada, Gizzard Shad [$8.00]
A comely cut of gizzard shad certainly delivered. The key was the interplay between the fish's simultaneously sweet and saline tastes, evened out by that sturdy, red vinegar'd rice.
Supplement: Engawa, Flounder's Fin
Flounder fin was charmingly chewy, with a marked sweetness that went well with the kick of wasabi. Do note that this bite ended up being on the house, as the Chef only had a small portion left to serve.
My second bottle from Baird was the Numazu Lager [$10]. The beer went in a generally easy-drinking direction, but still kept things interesting enough thanks to its palpably grain-y properties and relatively robust mouthfeel.
13: Torotaku Handroll
The toro-taku is quickly becoming my favorite type of hand roll due to how well it combines pickle-y takuan with fatty tuna and nori, and this was a prime example of such.
Fumio-san preparing fancy sea urchin for the course below.
Supplement: Auction Grade Hadate Purple Uni [$35.00]
Here we had kita-murasaki uni from Hakodate, Hokkaido, obtained from well-regarded producer Hadate Suisan (羽立水産株式会社). Compared with the bafun uni, this actually gave quite a different impression, presenting itself as less overtly sweet and less creamy. Instead, the sea urchin was a bit more contemplative taste-wise, exhibiting more of a mineral-driven, briny disposition that was pretty unmatched in its elegance. And again, great counterpoint in the form of that seaweed.
14: Anago
Conger eel showcased its signature mix of sweetness and savor, while the touch of crispness on the outside contrasted well with the fish's tender interior.
As we neared the end of the meal, a complimentary serving of Yamagata Masamune Junmai Ginjo Omachi sake appeared, meant to go along with the clam below. Think sweet and fruity at first blush, but with an earthy, ricey, slightly hot backing.
Supplement: Hokki, JP Surf Clam [$8.00]
Hokkigai is another uncommon neta that I was happy to see on offer. In terms of texture, think supple, satisfying, and a good match with the firm rice. Meanwhile, the clam's sweetness and salinity were joined by a smokiness that really sealed the deal for me.
15: Tamago
Last up was a cake-like tamagoyaki that was imbued with more piquancy than most, served directly into my hand. A fitting closer.
I normally don't eat a proper, long-format lunch, but I'm happy I made the effort today, as I had a great time here. Azumi-san didn't miss a beat, delivering hit after hit with nary a miss, while service, coordinated by Natsuko Aizawa Azumi (the Chef's wife) was as affable as it was effectual. I was afraid that Osusume Fumio would be a big step down from what I'd experienced at Kogane, but thankfully that looks not to be the case. I'm glad that the Chef has finally found a permanent home, and I'm sure I'll eventually pay him another visit (probably for dinner).
posted by kevinEats at
12:00 PM
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