Providence (Los Angeles, CA) [8]
Providence Restaurant
5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323-460-4170
www.providencela.com
Sat 06/14/2025, 06:10p-10:30p
If we're talking about bastions of fine dining in Southern California, one of the names that undoubtedly comes to mind for me is Providence. The modern American seafood spot was launched in Hollywood on June 17th, 2005 by Chef Michael Cimarusti and General Manager Donato Poto, who had actually met each other while working at Water Grill in Downtown. Poto later went on to serve as opening GM at Bastide, with Alain Giraud running the kitchen, but teamed back up with Cimarusti in 2004. Providence quickly established itself as one of LA's upper echelon eateries, and was subsequently awarded a Michelin star in the inaugural 2008 Los Angeles guide. That rating was upgraded to two stars the following year, and has been maintained ever since. Given that the restaurant is celebrating its 20th birthday this year, it just felt right to return for a meal.
We arrived early for our reservation, and thus took a seat at the bar/lounge area and enjoyed some preprandial libations.
Shown above is Providence's cocktail list, and well as the restaurant's surprisingly extensive selection of spirits (Chef Cimarusti is quite the whiskey connoisseur). Click for larger versions.
the bee's sneeze [$23.00] | pueblo viejo tequila, fino sherry, lillet, citrus, lavender honey, bee & fennel pollen
We made our way through three cocktails, and our first was, I'm assuming, loosely based on the classic Prohibition-era bee's knees. Soft on the palate, this demonstrated an agreeable combination of honeyed and floral nuances, all set over an undercurrent of astringency.
whiskey fizz-ness [$23.00] | buffalo trace bourbon, raifuku umeshu, crème de pêche, jasmine green tea, co2
A riff on the classic fizz delivered an almost peach ring-esque sugariness that coalesced swimmingly with the tea, plum liqueur, and especially the assertive qualities of that whiskey. Fun, bubbly, and probably my favorite cocktail of the three.
vesper in disguise [$23.00] | wheatley vodka, barr hill gin, cap corse, rooftop nasturtium, chef danielle's onions
Our final drink was also a winner, deftly blending the assertiveness of a vodka-gin combo with the botanical bittersweetness of Cap Corse and the wonderfully briny zest of that cocktail onion (courtesy of Sous Chef Danielle Peterson).
After a while, we made our way to the dining room, which is looking quite a bit different these days. Back in May 2023, the restaurant underwent a remodel by the team over at Bells + Whistles. The new decor is darker-toned and gives off a heightened sense of luxury, with those deep blues recalling an oceanic setting. I'm quite a fan of those richly-hued walnut tables as well.
Food-wise, the usual $325 Classic Menu has been joined by a lengthier $450 Chef's Tasting Menu, which incorporates all three main course selections. We also see a selection of supplemental dishes comprising some of the restaurant's perennial favorites. Beverage pairings are available from Wine Director David Osenbach, and of course you can also choose from the extensive wine list, while corkage is $100 a pop for the first two bottles, then $150 for the third and final. Click for larger versions.
Our meal at Providence began with a quartet of amuse-bouches, and first up was a bluefin tuna belly tartare in a rice puff, crowned with golden kaluga caviar and miner's lettuce (reportedly foraged by the Chef himself in Pasadena). I think the key here was how the bite's brininess matched up with the zing of that greenery, all while that rice shell offered up a countering crunch and savor. An encouraging start.
Given that we were commemorating Providence's 20th birthday, we thought it'd be fun to BYOB a few bottles from the restaurant's birthyear, and up first was something decidedly celebratory: the 2005 Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne Brut Rosé. On the nose, I found loads of sweet, warm, toasty brioche, lightly smeared with fruit preserves, while the palate was superbly well-integrated, with more of those yeasty notes commingled with soft, subtle hints of red fruit. With time, the wine's aromas became nuttier and more saline, with a nearly chocolate-y element in there, and taste-wise, I got an earthier, more mineral-driven, more viscous sort of experience. Just a delightful tipple overall, one that's held up very well over the past two decades.
Next up was my (and our server's) favorite of the amuses: sweet-saline Hokkaido uni glazed in lemon, accompanied by a wonderfully grassy nori tuile and egg dashi, all set over a deliciously crispy, salty hash brown base.
Here we had house-smoked salmon wrapped around a cylinder of shattery, savory, crêpe-like pastry, which itself held a filling of cool, airy sour cream.
Our final canapé brought an unabashedly potent, funky, almost liver-y wagyu tartare dressed in truffle aioli and dusted with Australian black winter truffles. The beef was sandwiched between two nori crackers, which is why the staff humorously call these things "Noreos." Yum.
oysters on the half shell [$36.00] | kumamoto (wa), grassy bar (ca), island creek (ma), traditional mignonette
We couldn't resist ordering a plate of oysters, and all three varietals we had tonight were on point. I began with a Kumamoto, a go-to of mine that once again delivered with its satisfyingly supple mouthfeel and cool, clean, melon-y brine. Hailing from Morro Bay, the Grassy Bar was probably my favorite of this threesome thanks to its elegant assertiveness and almost creamy character. Last up was the Island Creek, with its delightful "snap" and superbly balanced presentation. All three bivalves were accompanied by a serving of pleasingly peppery mignonette (Champagne vinegar, shallot, tarragon, black pepper), which was appreciated but unnecessary.
1: pacific oyster | kaluga caviar, lime, garden herbs
The evening's first "proper" course brought out a delectably buttery, lightly poached Hog Island Sweetwater (one of the Chef's preferred oysters), which was just great texturally. Its rich, oceany disposition was augmented by the saltiness of golden kaluga caviar and a potato tuile, while evening things out was a refreshing, lightly-fermented mul kimchi, with its crunchy brunoises of daikon, apple, and Asian pear.
2: sashimi | sungold tomato, shiso
Sashimi duties were handled by meaty cuts of hiramasa, dry-aged in-house for seven days over kombu. The fish's enhanced levels of umami were smartly offset by the bright, herby nature of a garden herb gelée, studded with Sungold tomato, shiso blossom, and a tableside finish of shiso oil.
salt-roasted santa barbara spot prawns [$35.00/each] | rosemary, lemon, extra-virgin olive oil
Pictured above is perhaps the quintessential classic Providence dish. The crux was how the almost brazenly salty nature of the preparation married with the sweet, briny, oh-so heady qualities of the shrimp, all while lemon and EVOO made themselves known just enough.
uni egg [$35.00] | sea urchin, champagne beurre blanc, brioche croutons
Another Providence mainstay is this always-satisfying commixture of soft-poached egg, Champagne beurre blanc, herbes de Provence, croutons, and flowers from the rooftop garden. Luxurious yet understated as always, with a nice textural contribution from the toasty brioche--you can't go too wrong with this.
BYO selection #2 was the 2005 François Raveneau Chablis Premier Cru Forêt. Aroma-wise, what struck me was this almost blue cheese-esque funkiness that I reveled in, commingled with grassy, mineral-driven notes. Taking I sip, the Burgundy went in a soft, silken direction on the tongue, with flavors of fresh, tangy citrus countered by bruised yellow fruits and an underlying caramel character--delish. I actually had the '05 Raveneau Butteaux at the Alinea × Seline collab not long ago, and it was surprising to see how different the two sister wines were.
uni egg + add golden kaluga caviar [$35.00 + $40.00] | sea urchin, champagne beurre blanc, brioche croutons
We wanted to try the same sea urchin egg from above, but this time with a dollop of caviar up top. The salinity from the kaluga really did serve as the perfect finishing touch, and while the dish didn't necessarily need the roe, it was indeed tastier with it.
3: red abalone | patty pan squash, egg sabayon, abalone dashi
Set in a puff pastry base was abalone dashi-braised Ventura County red abalone, abalone liver purée, egg sabayon, and pattypan squash. I'd actually say that this was one of the best versions of the sea snail I've had in recent times. The abalone was fantastic texturally, and I loved all the invigoratingly umami-forward flavors going on, tempered just enough by the squash, all while the custard helped tie everything together. Nice crunch from that tart shell, too.
Not surprisingly, the bread tonight was superb. Made using Red Fife wheat from Tehachapi Grain Project, the sourdough boule was served hot right out of the oven, and featured a tender crumb alongside a super crunchy, flavorful crust imbued with this nuttiness that almost recalled popcorn at times. The bread was delicious just by itself, but accoutrements did include Rodolphe Le Meunier butter and Maldon salt.
4: hokkaido scallop | carrot, scallop xo
A medallion of pan-seared hotate was set atop XO sauce, surrounded by roasted chayote greens and scallop tea-basted Weiser Farms carrot, then dressed with an aerated scallop tea and scallop syrup. This menagerie of scallop did a commendable job showcasing the various facets of the bivalve, and I especially appreciated the depth and umami imparted by the XO, while the veggies lightened the mood. However, my gripe was that the scallop was cooked more than I would've liked.
It was now time for the truffle-centric section of our meal, obviously.
black winter truffles [$120.00] | soft-scrambled egg
Scrambled eggs were indeed as soft as advertised, and served as the consummate foil to the musk of those black truffles, with the sweetness from what I believe was corn adding further interest to the dish.
The eggs above were even better when taken with a triangle of toast.
black winter truffles [$120.00] | raviolo all'uovo
The egg yolk ravioli met the mark as well, with that properly lush, runny yolk making a whole bunch of sense with those woodsy winter truffles.
5: vermilion rockfish | vadouvan, eggplant, french sorrel
Despite what was printed on the menu, we were told that this was golden eye snapper from Japan, and given that kinmedai is one of my favorite sushi toppings, it was nice to see it in cooked form for a change. The fish was what I wanted both texture-wise and taste-wise, and I was a big fan of its robust salinity. At the same time, multiple preparations of eggplant (including grilled-rolled-pickled, chip brushed with watermelon oil, tableside beurre blanc) added a palpable smoke and heft to the dish, while vadouvan imparted a tinge of curry-esque spice.
We definitely wanted to go red for our final wine, and opted for the 2005 Lucien Le Moine Bonnes Mares Grand Cru. Initial whiffs were quite something, with concentrated doses of sauvage, meat, and blood joined by cool berry fruits. Tasting a sip, I found the Burgundy silken across the tongue, with loads of red cherry at the fore, combined with copious amounts of barnyard and leather. Overall, bold, even brash at times, but with a certain grace to it. This was the first bottle I've tried from the somewhat controversial producer, and I have to say that I was quite happy with how it turned out.
6a: columbia river king salmon | porcini, fava bean
It was now time for the mains, and of course we sampled all three options. Up first was some spot-on salmon, accompanied by fava bean, shaved raw porcini, roasted porcini, a porcini chip, and a tableside finish of porcini sauce with fermented fava. I think the way the fish interacted with the counteracting forces from the mushroom and fava was really the answer here.
We were presented with an impressive-looking "show duck" to get us excited for the next course.
6b: liberty farms duck breast | cherry, asparagus
Duck arrived expertly cooked, with a delectably savory, "hammy" quality that paired like clockwork with both duck jus and a cherry purée. I appreciated the various accompaniments as well, which included a cordial cherry, Zuckerman asparagus, and my favorite: a crispy pouch of duck mousse and asparagus topped with poached quail egg.
6c: a5 wagyu [$45.00] | morel, nettle
Not surprisingly, a cut of Japanese wagyu was as rich and fatty and salty and decadent as I was hoping for, but never overwhelmingly so. The beef was sitting atop creamed nettle and surrounded by an aerated morel broth, while actual morels provided further oomph to the dish. Meanwhile, crucial for balance was a topping of arugula and rosemary blossoms from the rooftop garden.
It was now time to move into the fromage part of dinner. Providence's cheese cart only has two selections, but both of them are quite a doozy.
Truffle Brie [$45.00]
A soft cow's milk varietal, Brie is one of my favorites, and tonight's version was made all the better by the inclusion of black truffle, which proffered this earthiness that meshed seamlessly with the cheese's existing creamy and mushroom-y notes. I didn't mind that tangy salad on the side for some contrast, either.
A particularly nutty serving of toast certainly was a natural complement to the cheese.
Comté [$55.00]
The Comté, on the other hand, represented a very different eating experience, but one that was just as enjoyable. The cheese itself demonstrated the subtle sweetness I was anticipating, and really functioned as a rather suitable base for the back-and-forth between shavings of Australian black truffle and the sugariness of both rooftop honey and mulberry jam, punctuated by pinpricks of cracked pepper.
7: peach, yuzu, red shiso
With the cheese dispensed with, it was now time for Pastry Chef Mac Daniel Dimla to do his thing, and he kicked things off with a brand-new dessert that apparently just debuted tonight. What we had here was a delightfully fruity-and-floral marriage of fermented first-of-season yellow peaches, peach-red shiso granita, red shiso purée, and yuzu-peach sorbet, all countered by shards of surprisingly salty candied peach skin.
8: house-made hawaiian chocolate | buckwheat, miso
It's rare that chocolate is made in-house at restaurants, so I was glad to see that being the case at Providence, with Big Island cacao beans fashioned into a Hawaiian flourless chocolate cake. Also in the mix were miso cream, caramelized cacao nibs, a hojicha tuile, toasted barley gelato, and a tableside finish of black vinegar miso. All the various elements really coalesced seamlessly here, and I liked the balance of sweet-savory-floral, not to mention the array of textures going on.
With dessert proper done with, it was time for the parade of mignardises to begin, starting with these nutty-sweet Sicilian pistachio macarons.
Served in an actual cacao pod were orange marmalade-boosted Hawaiian chocolates. Great interplay of salty-sweet-citrusy on these.
Here was Providence's signature chocolate tea, made with spent cacao husks. I found the tea agreeably nutty, its near-minty qualities playing along nicely with that honey on the side.
Last up was a mignardise platter with three selections. I began with a Harry's Berries strawberry tart, which had an herbal, savory quality to pair with its expected sweet-tangy notes. Meanwhile, a chocolate bonbon was enhanced by an Earl Grey Chantilly cream; what surprised me here was the bite's almost "livery" taste, which I didn't mind alongside the nutty, salty nuances present. My favorite of the trio was the salted caramel tart with vanilla bourbon cream; with this one, I was particularly fond of the texture of the base and how that played with the sweet-n-spicy going on.
To take home, we were given a copy of the night's menu along with a serving of housemade 75% Peruvian bean-to-bar single-origin chocolate, all placed in a nifty Providence-branded bag.
It'd been a while since my last meal at Providence, but I was very pleased to see that the restaurant is still firing on all cylinders. I've been dining here since 2007, and the kitchen and service have always been consistently strong, which I guess is what's kept me (and plenty of others) coming back over the past two decades. Indeed, the restaurant has been a fine dining-slash-special occasion standby for me this entire duration, and I don't see that changing any time soon. My hope is that Providence can go on another 20 years, but I suspect that the Chef may want to retire before then!
5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323-460-4170
www.providencela.com
Sat 06/14/2025, 06:10p-10:30p
If we're talking about bastions of fine dining in Southern California, one of the names that undoubtedly comes to mind for me is Providence. The modern American seafood spot was launched in Hollywood on June 17th, 2005 by Chef Michael Cimarusti and General Manager Donato Poto, who had actually met each other while working at Water Grill in Downtown. Poto later went on to serve as opening GM at Bastide, with Alain Giraud running the kitchen, but teamed back up with Cimarusti in 2004. Providence quickly established itself as one of LA's upper echelon eateries, and was subsequently awarded a Michelin star in the inaugural 2008 Los Angeles guide. That rating was upgraded to two stars the following year, and has been maintained ever since. Given that the restaurant is celebrating its 20th birthday this year, it just felt right to return for a meal.
We arrived early for our reservation, and thus took a seat at the bar/lounge area and enjoyed some preprandial libations.
Shown above is Providence's cocktail list, and well as the restaurant's surprisingly extensive selection of spirits (Chef Cimarusti is quite the whiskey connoisseur). Click for larger versions.
the bee's sneeze [$23.00] | pueblo viejo tequila, fino sherry, lillet, citrus, lavender honey, bee & fennel pollen
We made our way through three cocktails, and our first was, I'm assuming, loosely based on the classic Prohibition-era bee's knees. Soft on the palate, this demonstrated an agreeable combination of honeyed and floral nuances, all set over an undercurrent of astringency.
whiskey fizz-ness [$23.00] | buffalo trace bourbon, raifuku umeshu, crème de pêche, jasmine green tea, co2
A riff on the classic fizz delivered an almost peach ring-esque sugariness that coalesced swimmingly with the tea, plum liqueur, and especially the assertive qualities of that whiskey. Fun, bubbly, and probably my favorite cocktail of the three.
vesper in disguise [$23.00] | wheatley vodka, barr hill gin, cap corse, rooftop nasturtium, chef danielle's onions
Our final drink was also a winner, deftly blending the assertiveness of a vodka-gin combo with the botanical bittersweetness of Cap Corse and the wonderfully briny zest of that cocktail onion (courtesy of Sous Chef Danielle Peterson).
After a while, we made our way to the dining room, which is looking quite a bit different these days. Back in May 2023, the restaurant underwent a remodel by the team over at Bells + Whistles. The new decor is darker-toned and gives off a heightened sense of luxury, with those deep blues recalling an oceanic setting. I'm quite a fan of those richly-hued walnut tables as well.
Food-wise, the usual $325 Classic Menu has been joined by a lengthier $450 Chef's Tasting Menu, which incorporates all three main course selections. We also see a selection of supplemental dishes comprising some of the restaurant's perennial favorites. Beverage pairings are available from Wine Director David Osenbach, and of course you can also choose from the extensive wine list, while corkage is $100 a pop for the first two bottles, then $150 for the third and final. Click for larger versions.
Our meal at Providence began with a quartet of amuse-bouches, and first up was a bluefin tuna belly tartare in a rice puff, crowned with golden kaluga caviar and miner's lettuce (reportedly foraged by the Chef himself in Pasadena). I think the key here was how the bite's brininess matched up with the zing of that greenery, all while that rice shell offered up a countering crunch and savor. An encouraging start.
Given that we were commemorating Providence's 20th birthday, we thought it'd be fun to BYOB a few bottles from the restaurant's birthyear, and up first was something decidedly celebratory: the 2005 Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne Brut Rosé. On the nose, I found loads of sweet, warm, toasty brioche, lightly smeared with fruit preserves, while the palate was superbly well-integrated, with more of those yeasty notes commingled with soft, subtle hints of red fruit. With time, the wine's aromas became nuttier and more saline, with a nearly chocolate-y element in there, and taste-wise, I got an earthier, more mineral-driven, more viscous sort of experience. Just a delightful tipple overall, one that's held up very well over the past two decades.
Next up was my (and our server's) favorite of the amuses: sweet-saline Hokkaido uni glazed in lemon, accompanied by a wonderfully grassy nori tuile and egg dashi, all set over a deliciously crispy, salty hash brown base.
Here we had house-smoked salmon wrapped around a cylinder of shattery, savory, crêpe-like pastry, which itself held a filling of cool, airy sour cream.
Our final canapé brought an unabashedly potent, funky, almost liver-y wagyu tartare dressed in truffle aioli and dusted with Australian black winter truffles. The beef was sandwiched between two nori crackers, which is why the staff humorously call these things "Noreos." Yum.
oysters on the half shell [$36.00] | kumamoto (wa), grassy bar (ca), island creek (ma), traditional mignonette
We couldn't resist ordering a plate of oysters, and all three varietals we had tonight were on point. I began with a Kumamoto, a go-to of mine that once again delivered with its satisfyingly supple mouthfeel and cool, clean, melon-y brine. Hailing from Morro Bay, the Grassy Bar was probably my favorite of this threesome thanks to its elegant assertiveness and almost creamy character. Last up was the Island Creek, with its delightful "snap" and superbly balanced presentation. All three bivalves were accompanied by a serving of pleasingly peppery mignonette (Champagne vinegar, shallot, tarragon, black pepper), which was appreciated but unnecessary.
1: pacific oyster | kaluga caviar, lime, garden herbs
The evening's first "proper" course brought out a delectably buttery, lightly poached Hog Island Sweetwater (one of the Chef's preferred oysters), which was just great texturally. Its rich, oceany disposition was augmented by the saltiness of golden kaluga caviar and a potato tuile, while evening things out was a refreshing, lightly-fermented mul kimchi, with its crunchy brunoises of daikon, apple, and Asian pear.
2: sashimi | sungold tomato, shiso
Sashimi duties were handled by meaty cuts of hiramasa, dry-aged in-house for seven days over kombu. The fish's enhanced levels of umami were smartly offset by the bright, herby nature of a garden herb gelée, studded with Sungold tomato, shiso blossom, and a tableside finish of shiso oil.
salt-roasted santa barbara spot prawns [$35.00/each] | rosemary, lemon, extra-virgin olive oil
Pictured above is perhaps the quintessential classic Providence dish. The crux was how the almost brazenly salty nature of the preparation married with the sweet, briny, oh-so heady qualities of the shrimp, all while lemon and EVOO made themselves known just enough.
uni egg [$35.00] | sea urchin, champagne beurre blanc, brioche croutons
Another Providence mainstay is this always-satisfying commixture of soft-poached egg, Champagne beurre blanc, herbes de Provence, croutons, and flowers from the rooftop garden. Luxurious yet understated as always, with a nice textural contribution from the toasty brioche--you can't go too wrong with this.
BYO selection #2 was the 2005 François Raveneau Chablis Premier Cru Forêt. Aroma-wise, what struck me was this almost blue cheese-esque funkiness that I reveled in, commingled with grassy, mineral-driven notes. Taking I sip, the Burgundy went in a soft, silken direction on the tongue, with flavors of fresh, tangy citrus countered by bruised yellow fruits and an underlying caramel character--delish. I actually had the '05 Raveneau Butteaux at the Alinea × Seline collab not long ago, and it was surprising to see how different the two sister wines were.
uni egg + add golden kaluga caviar [$35.00 + $40.00] | sea urchin, champagne beurre blanc, brioche croutons
We wanted to try the same sea urchin egg from above, but this time with a dollop of caviar up top. The salinity from the kaluga really did serve as the perfect finishing touch, and while the dish didn't necessarily need the roe, it was indeed tastier with it.
3: red abalone | patty pan squash, egg sabayon, abalone dashi
Set in a puff pastry base was abalone dashi-braised Ventura County red abalone, abalone liver purée, egg sabayon, and pattypan squash. I'd actually say that this was one of the best versions of the sea snail I've had in recent times. The abalone was fantastic texturally, and I loved all the invigoratingly umami-forward flavors going on, tempered just enough by the squash, all while the custard helped tie everything together. Nice crunch from that tart shell, too.
Not surprisingly, the bread tonight was superb. Made using Red Fife wheat from Tehachapi Grain Project, the sourdough boule was served hot right out of the oven, and featured a tender crumb alongside a super crunchy, flavorful crust imbued with this nuttiness that almost recalled popcorn at times. The bread was delicious just by itself, but accoutrements did include Rodolphe Le Meunier butter and Maldon salt.
4: hokkaido scallop | carrot, scallop xo
A medallion of pan-seared hotate was set atop XO sauce, surrounded by roasted chayote greens and scallop tea-basted Weiser Farms carrot, then dressed with an aerated scallop tea and scallop syrup. This menagerie of scallop did a commendable job showcasing the various facets of the bivalve, and I especially appreciated the depth and umami imparted by the XO, while the veggies lightened the mood. However, my gripe was that the scallop was cooked more than I would've liked.
It was now time for the truffle-centric section of our meal, obviously.
black winter truffles [$120.00] | soft-scrambled egg
Scrambled eggs were indeed as soft as advertised, and served as the consummate foil to the musk of those black truffles, with the sweetness from what I believe was corn adding further interest to the dish.
The eggs above were even better when taken with a triangle of toast.
black winter truffles [$120.00] | raviolo all'uovo
The egg yolk ravioli met the mark as well, with that properly lush, runny yolk making a whole bunch of sense with those woodsy winter truffles.
5: vermilion rockfish | vadouvan, eggplant, french sorrel
Despite what was printed on the menu, we were told that this was golden eye snapper from Japan, and given that kinmedai is one of my favorite sushi toppings, it was nice to see it in cooked form for a change. The fish was what I wanted both texture-wise and taste-wise, and I was a big fan of its robust salinity. At the same time, multiple preparations of eggplant (including grilled-rolled-pickled, chip brushed with watermelon oil, tableside beurre blanc) added a palpable smoke and heft to the dish, while vadouvan imparted a tinge of curry-esque spice.
We definitely wanted to go red for our final wine, and opted for the 2005 Lucien Le Moine Bonnes Mares Grand Cru. Initial whiffs were quite something, with concentrated doses of sauvage, meat, and blood joined by cool berry fruits. Tasting a sip, I found the Burgundy silken across the tongue, with loads of red cherry at the fore, combined with copious amounts of barnyard and leather. Overall, bold, even brash at times, but with a certain grace to it. This was the first bottle I've tried from the somewhat controversial producer, and I have to say that I was quite happy with how it turned out.
6a: columbia river king salmon | porcini, fava bean
It was now time for the mains, and of course we sampled all three options. Up first was some spot-on salmon, accompanied by fava bean, shaved raw porcini, roasted porcini, a porcini chip, and a tableside finish of porcini sauce with fermented fava. I think the way the fish interacted with the counteracting forces from the mushroom and fava was really the answer here.
We were presented with an impressive-looking "show duck" to get us excited for the next course.
6b: liberty farms duck breast | cherry, asparagus
Duck arrived expertly cooked, with a delectably savory, "hammy" quality that paired like clockwork with both duck jus and a cherry purée. I appreciated the various accompaniments as well, which included a cordial cherry, Zuckerman asparagus, and my favorite: a crispy pouch of duck mousse and asparagus topped with poached quail egg.
6c: a5 wagyu [$45.00] | morel, nettle
Not surprisingly, a cut of Japanese wagyu was as rich and fatty and salty and decadent as I was hoping for, but never overwhelmingly so. The beef was sitting atop creamed nettle and surrounded by an aerated morel broth, while actual morels provided further oomph to the dish. Meanwhile, crucial for balance was a topping of arugula and rosemary blossoms from the rooftop garden.
It was now time to move into the fromage part of dinner. Providence's cheese cart only has two selections, but both of them are quite a doozy.
Truffle Brie [$45.00]
A soft cow's milk varietal, Brie is one of my favorites, and tonight's version was made all the better by the inclusion of black truffle, which proffered this earthiness that meshed seamlessly with the cheese's existing creamy and mushroom-y notes. I didn't mind that tangy salad on the side for some contrast, either.
A particularly nutty serving of toast certainly was a natural complement to the cheese.
Comté [$55.00]
The Comté, on the other hand, represented a very different eating experience, but one that was just as enjoyable. The cheese itself demonstrated the subtle sweetness I was anticipating, and really functioned as a rather suitable base for the back-and-forth between shavings of Australian black truffle and the sugariness of both rooftop honey and mulberry jam, punctuated by pinpricks of cracked pepper.
7: peach, yuzu, red shiso
With the cheese dispensed with, it was now time for Pastry Chef Mac Daniel Dimla to do his thing, and he kicked things off with a brand-new dessert that apparently just debuted tonight. What we had here was a delightfully fruity-and-floral marriage of fermented first-of-season yellow peaches, peach-red shiso granita, red shiso purée, and yuzu-peach sorbet, all countered by shards of surprisingly salty candied peach skin.
8: house-made hawaiian chocolate | buckwheat, miso
It's rare that chocolate is made in-house at restaurants, so I was glad to see that being the case at Providence, with Big Island cacao beans fashioned into a Hawaiian flourless chocolate cake. Also in the mix were miso cream, caramelized cacao nibs, a hojicha tuile, toasted barley gelato, and a tableside finish of black vinegar miso. All the various elements really coalesced seamlessly here, and I liked the balance of sweet-savory-floral, not to mention the array of textures going on.
With dessert proper done with, it was time for the parade of mignardises to begin, starting with these nutty-sweet Sicilian pistachio macarons.
Served in an actual cacao pod were orange marmalade-boosted Hawaiian chocolates. Great interplay of salty-sweet-citrusy on these.
Here was Providence's signature chocolate tea, made with spent cacao husks. I found the tea agreeably nutty, its near-minty qualities playing along nicely with that honey on the side.
Last up was a mignardise platter with three selections. I began with a Harry's Berries strawberry tart, which had an herbal, savory quality to pair with its expected sweet-tangy notes. Meanwhile, a chocolate bonbon was enhanced by an Earl Grey Chantilly cream; what surprised me here was the bite's almost "livery" taste, which I didn't mind alongside the nutty, salty nuances present. My favorite of the trio was the salted caramel tart with vanilla bourbon cream; with this one, I was particularly fond of the texture of the base and how that played with the sweet-n-spicy going on.
To take home, we were given a copy of the night's menu along with a serving of housemade 75% Peruvian bean-to-bar single-origin chocolate, all placed in a nifty Providence-branded bag.
It'd been a while since my last meal at Providence, but I was very pleased to see that the restaurant is still firing on all cylinders. I've been dining here since 2007, and the kitchen and service have always been consistently strong, which I guess is what's kept me (and plenty of others) coming back over the past two decades. Indeed, the restaurant has been a fine dining-slash-special occasion standby for me this entire duration, and I don't see that changing any time soon. My hope is that Providence can go on another 20 years, but I suspect that the Chef may want to retire before then!
posted by kevinEats at
6:10 PM
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