Rasarumah (Los Angeles, CA)
Rasa Rumah Restaurant
3107 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026
213-567-3547
www.rasarumah.com
Sat 04/26/2025, 06:05p-08:15p
The last time I reported on Johnny Lee was back in February 2023, shortly before the second iteration of Pearl River Deli closed, the victim of rising food costs and the resulting financial unsustainability. Surprisingly, we didn't have to wait long for PRD 3.0, which opened just weeks later on March 11th, serving noodle-based lunch. That only lasted until June 12th, though. PRD 4.0 dropped on June 23rd, focused on Hainanese chicken rice, the occasional foray into Malaysian food, and a high-end, invitation-only Cantonese dinner option by the name of Pearl River Private Kitchen. However, this fourth incarnation of the restaurant eventually shuttered on February 4th, 2024, as Lee was apparently fed up and wanted to explore other ideas.
Following, the Chef showed up at MAMA's Nightmarket, helped out at Poltergeist, and in April, traveled to Southeast Asia for five weeks, gaining culinary inspiration. After returning to the States, he and the folks at Last Word Hospitality began work on Rasarumah ("house of flavor" in Malay), his ode to Chinese-Malaysian cuisine. While that was going on, Lee popped up at Found Oyster, went to Chicago to slang Hainan chicken at Triple Crown, and made an appearance at Chinatown After Dark in October. Rasarumah ended up soft-opening on November 24th to considerable anticipation and has been largely well-received, so the place quickly made the shortlist for a recent birthday dinner.
Rasarumah is located in Westlake's Historic Filipinotown neighborhood, taking over a 1,380 square-foot storefront in The Beverly Building that was previously home to Vaka Burger. The space was thoroughly reworked, and now sports an aesthetic that combines a restrained tropicality with decidedly old school touches. I was told that Chris Pine was also dining here tonight, as apparently he was the third person from the right at the bar in the photo above.
A nice gesture was the inclusion of the birthday girl's name on some signage.
Here we see Rasarumah's menu, which highlights Malaysian-Chinese fare as well as Malay cuisine's Indian and Indonesian influences. However, do note that, given our large party size, we had to opt for a set family-style menu, priced at $85 a head. Drink-wise, Last Word's Wine Director Evelyn Goreshnik has compiled a small but fairly interesting wine list along with a smattering of sake, shochu, and beer, while the corkage fee is $35. Click for larger versions.
1a: Shrimp Chips & Sambals
Airy, well-fried keropok (prawn crackers) were accompanied by a sambal trio. Clockwise from bottom-right, we had:
Our first BYOB selection was the 1983 Domaine Huguet Pinon Vouvray Demi-Sec, which I last sampled at Kinjiro back at the start of 2024. The wine was surprisingly fresh on the nose, its honeyed, funky aromas joined by a distinct "green" quality. The palate was also far livelier than I anticipated, yet still clearly mature, with plenty of tart, citrusy notes commingled with earthy nuances, orchard fruit, and a good amount of acidity. I must say that the Chenin blanc held up unexpectedly well given its protruding, blackened cork, which did not inspire confidence.
1b: Chicken Skewer | jidori chicken thigh, peanut sauce, fresh pineapple
1c: Pork Jowl Skewer | char siu pork jowl, sesame, scallion, hot mustard
The satay portion of our meal comprised two selections. I began with the chicken, which I found properly tender and juicy, with a crispy, salty skin to boot. The bird was delectable by itself, but was indeed made even better by a dab of that delightfully tangy, nutty sauce on the side. Meanwhile, the pork was an altogether different eating experience. The jowl arrived firm-yet-fatty to the bite, its sweet-spicing playing well with the heft of the meat, all while that zippy mustard served as the perfect counterpoint.
1d: Bergedil | potato fritters, sambal kicap mayo
The bergedel was a surprise standout. The fritters' soft, almost "fluffy" interiors juxtaposed swimmingly with their crisp, lightly fried outsides, and I liked their spicing and the brightness imparted by what I believe was spring onion. The potatoes were certainly tasty alone, but really sang when taken with that heady mayonnaise on the side, which one of my dining companions actually found reminiscent of French onion dip.
1e: Gado Gado | little gems, endive, spiced peanut dressing, herbs, tofu croutons, shrimp chips
A Californian take on gado-gado tied together a bevy of bright, bitter, crunchy veggies with a wonderfully nutty peanut dressing. Said dressing imparted a subtle heat to the salad, and I also liked the savoriness provided by those fried shallots, while the tofu proffered some welcomed textural play.
Next to drink came the 2012 Chimay Spéciale Cent Cinquante, a Belgian strong golden ale created to celebrate the brewery's 150th anniversary. The bouquet here was very promising, displaying loads of juicy peach overarched by yeasty, mineral elements, all in a refreshing manner. Taste-wise, this was similarly vibrant, its invigorating acidity, bitterness, and prickly spice marrying flawlessly with deep, nearly candied orchard fruit flavors. The last time I had this beer was back at the start of 2013 at a Wolvesmouth dinner, and I have to say that the tripel has aged absolutely beautifully since then--I'm glad I have another bottle left.
2a: Rojak | mango, cucumber, pineapple, jicama, herbs, tamarind, crispy shallots
This next salad almost served as a bit of palate cleanser, its bright, fruity, crunchy components brought together by a tangy-savory dressing, all while the herbs delivered some welcomed aromatics.
A re-up of our sambal troika.
2b: Char Kway Teow | stir fried rice noodles, Chinese sausage, shrimp, bean sprouts, garlic, soy
An ostensibly Penang-inspired version of kuetiau goreng was up next. I enjoyed the back-and-forth between the sweet-savor of lap cheong and the brine of the shrimp, all while peas and sprouts provided contrast in both taste and texture. The chew of the rice noodles was also to my liking, though I wanted more of that depth of savor you achieve by getting some heavier wok hei going.
At this point, we moved back into some wine with the 2018 Amuse Bouche Vin Perdu, a Napa Valley red blend composed of 38% Syrah, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Merlot. The nose here was all about cool blue fruit intertwined with peppery spices and hints of herb and florals. Taking a sip, I found smooth tannins and dark berry flavors all over, joined by sweet spices, cacao, and a distinctly minty quality that I rather liked.
3a: Wagyu Beef Cheek Rendang | slow braised wagyu, pickles, coconut cream, lime, roti
Long-cooked beef cheeks featured a meltingly tender, almost gelatinous consistency, while flavors were dark, cozy, and sweetly spiced. Wrap up the meat in that fluffy flatbread along with the various accoutrements, and you're good!
An extra serving of roti was provided, which was much appreciated given how delicious the bread was. In fact, I had no problem eating it just by itself.
3b: Sweet & Sour Whole Fried Snapper | ginger, bell pepper, pickled fresno, basil
The evening's pièce de résistance brought a crispy-skinned whole fish, one demonstrating some very familiar sweet and sour flavors. Fortunately, that sweet 'n' sour sensation never got overwhelming, and I liked how the herbs and veggies helped even everything out.
A portion of supple, slightly sticky jasmine rice was provided with the fish, serving as an apt accompaniment.
Our final tipple was the 2015 AleSmith Beer Geek Speedway, an imperial oatmeal stout with Kopi Luwak coffee, created in collaboration with Mikkeller. The beer smelled of roasty coffee interlaced with cocoa and dark fruits, while palate-wise, I got plenty more of those bitter, roasty notes, along with complementary malty, fruity nuances, all rendered in a pretty easy-drinking package. I last tasted this beer a decade ago, right when it was released, and it actually aged better than I expected, with the civet coffee still making its presence known.
4: Cendol Sundae | coconut pandan ice cream, pandan jelly noodles, red bean, gula melaka syrup, puffed rice
It was now time for dessert, and our first turned out to be one of the better sundaes I've had. The essence of pandan was masterfully conveyed here, and I enjoyed how well the multitude of tastes and textures all melded together. I especially appreciated the nutty crunch from the puffed rice.
Passion Fruit Cream Pie [$12.00] | passion fruit custard, whipped cream, graham cracker crust, passion fruit syrup
Tonight's "birthday cake" was also a clear winner. I often find the tart, tropical nature of passion fruit a bit domineering, but that was never an issue here. The fruit was presented in such an elegant manner, and I was a big fan of the contribution offered up by that crumbly graham cracker crust as well.
The impetus for this restaurant was born out of the Chef's long-held fascination with the culinary traditions of the Chinese diaspora, which led him down the rabbit hole of Peranakan cooking and eventually to the genesis of Rasarumah. This place serves as a celebration of that style of food, and Malaysian food as a whole, and is something I feel LA can really benefit from. Lee's doing justice to the cuisine while also imbuing it with some of his personal touches, and I get the sense that Rasarumah could become a go-to spot of mine in the area. I'm hoping it'll stick around longer than PRD, that's for sure.
3107 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026
213-567-3547
www.rasarumah.com
Sat 04/26/2025, 06:05p-08:15p
The last time I reported on Johnny Lee was back in February 2023, shortly before the second iteration of Pearl River Deli closed, the victim of rising food costs and the resulting financial unsustainability. Surprisingly, we didn't have to wait long for PRD 3.0, which opened just weeks later on March 11th, serving noodle-based lunch. That only lasted until June 12th, though. PRD 4.0 dropped on June 23rd, focused on Hainanese chicken rice, the occasional foray into Malaysian food, and a high-end, invitation-only Cantonese dinner option by the name of Pearl River Private Kitchen. However, this fourth incarnation of the restaurant eventually shuttered on February 4th, 2024, as Lee was apparently fed up and wanted to explore other ideas.
Following, the Chef showed up at MAMA's Nightmarket, helped out at Poltergeist, and in April, traveled to Southeast Asia for five weeks, gaining culinary inspiration. After returning to the States, he and the folks at Last Word Hospitality began work on Rasarumah ("house of flavor" in Malay), his ode to Chinese-Malaysian cuisine. While that was going on, Lee popped up at Found Oyster, went to Chicago to slang Hainan chicken at Triple Crown, and made an appearance at Chinatown After Dark in October. Rasarumah ended up soft-opening on November 24th to considerable anticipation and has been largely well-received, so the place quickly made the shortlist for a recent birthday dinner.
Rasarumah is located in Westlake's Historic Filipinotown neighborhood, taking over a 1,380 square-foot storefront in The Beverly Building that was previously home to Vaka Burger. The space was thoroughly reworked, and now sports an aesthetic that combines a restrained tropicality with decidedly old school touches. I was told that Chris Pine was also dining here tonight, as apparently he was the third person from the right at the bar in the photo above.
A nice gesture was the inclusion of the birthday girl's name on some signage.
Here we see Rasarumah's menu, which highlights Malaysian-Chinese fare as well as Malay cuisine's Indian and Indonesian influences. However, do note that, given our large party size, we had to opt for a set family-style menu, priced at $85 a head. Drink-wise, Last Word's Wine Director Evelyn Goreshnik has compiled a small but fairly interesting wine list along with a smattering of sake, shochu, and beer, while the corkage fee is $35. Click for larger versions.
1a: Shrimp Chips & Sambals
Airy, well-fried keropok (prawn crackers) were accompanied by a sambal trio. Clockwise from bottom-right, we had:
- Sour Sambal | tangy: red pepper, tamarind, shallot – The mildest of the threesome, this went in a sweeter direction, and actually reminded me of the La Victoria salsas of my childhood.
- Sambal Ijo | spicy: green tomatoes, jalapeño – This one was all about a restrained, vegetal sort of heat that really highlighted the tomatoes.
- Sambal Tumis | savory: dried shrimp, chili – My favorite of the three thanks to its palpable umami character backed by an undercurrent of sweetness.
Our first BYOB selection was the 1983 Domaine Huguet Pinon Vouvray Demi-Sec, which I last sampled at Kinjiro back at the start of 2024. The wine was surprisingly fresh on the nose, its honeyed, funky aromas joined by a distinct "green" quality. The palate was also far livelier than I anticipated, yet still clearly mature, with plenty of tart, citrusy notes commingled with earthy nuances, orchard fruit, and a good amount of acidity. I must say that the Chenin blanc held up unexpectedly well given its protruding, blackened cork, which did not inspire confidence.
1b: Chicken Skewer | jidori chicken thigh, peanut sauce, fresh pineapple
1c: Pork Jowl Skewer | char siu pork jowl, sesame, scallion, hot mustard
The satay portion of our meal comprised two selections. I began with the chicken, which I found properly tender and juicy, with a crispy, salty skin to boot. The bird was delectable by itself, but was indeed made even better by a dab of that delightfully tangy, nutty sauce on the side. Meanwhile, the pork was an altogether different eating experience. The jowl arrived firm-yet-fatty to the bite, its sweet-spicing playing well with the heft of the meat, all while that zippy mustard served as the perfect counterpoint.
1d: Bergedil | potato fritters, sambal kicap mayo
The bergedel was a surprise standout. The fritters' soft, almost "fluffy" interiors juxtaposed swimmingly with their crisp, lightly fried outsides, and I liked their spicing and the brightness imparted by what I believe was spring onion. The potatoes were certainly tasty alone, but really sang when taken with that heady mayonnaise on the side, which one of my dining companions actually found reminiscent of French onion dip.
1e: Gado Gado | little gems, endive, spiced peanut dressing, herbs, tofu croutons, shrimp chips
A Californian take on gado-gado tied together a bevy of bright, bitter, crunchy veggies with a wonderfully nutty peanut dressing. Said dressing imparted a subtle heat to the salad, and I also liked the savoriness provided by those fried shallots, while the tofu proffered some welcomed textural play.
Next to drink came the 2012 Chimay Spéciale Cent Cinquante, a Belgian strong golden ale created to celebrate the brewery's 150th anniversary. The bouquet here was very promising, displaying loads of juicy peach overarched by yeasty, mineral elements, all in a refreshing manner. Taste-wise, this was similarly vibrant, its invigorating acidity, bitterness, and prickly spice marrying flawlessly with deep, nearly candied orchard fruit flavors. The last time I had this beer was back at the start of 2013 at a Wolvesmouth dinner, and I have to say that the tripel has aged absolutely beautifully since then--I'm glad I have another bottle left.
2a: Rojak | mango, cucumber, pineapple, jicama, herbs, tamarind, crispy shallots
This next salad almost served as a bit of palate cleanser, its bright, fruity, crunchy components brought together by a tangy-savory dressing, all while the herbs delivered some welcomed aromatics.
A re-up of our sambal troika.
2b: Char Kway Teow | stir fried rice noodles, Chinese sausage, shrimp, bean sprouts, garlic, soy
An ostensibly Penang-inspired version of kuetiau goreng was up next. I enjoyed the back-and-forth between the sweet-savor of lap cheong and the brine of the shrimp, all while peas and sprouts provided contrast in both taste and texture. The chew of the rice noodles was also to my liking, though I wanted more of that depth of savor you achieve by getting some heavier wok hei going.
At this point, we moved back into some wine with the 2018 Amuse Bouche Vin Perdu, a Napa Valley red blend composed of 38% Syrah, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Merlot. The nose here was all about cool blue fruit intertwined with peppery spices and hints of herb and florals. Taking a sip, I found smooth tannins and dark berry flavors all over, joined by sweet spices, cacao, and a distinctly minty quality that I rather liked.
3a: Wagyu Beef Cheek Rendang | slow braised wagyu, pickles, coconut cream, lime, roti
Long-cooked beef cheeks featured a meltingly tender, almost gelatinous consistency, while flavors were dark, cozy, and sweetly spiced. Wrap up the meat in that fluffy flatbread along with the various accoutrements, and you're good!
An extra serving of roti was provided, which was much appreciated given how delicious the bread was. In fact, I had no problem eating it just by itself.
3b: Sweet & Sour Whole Fried Snapper | ginger, bell pepper, pickled fresno, basil
The evening's pièce de résistance brought a crispy-skinned whole fish, one demonstrating some very familiar sweet and sour flavors. Fortunately, that sweet 'n' sour sensation never got overwhelming, and I liked how the herbs and veggies helped even everything out.
A portion of supple, slightly sticky jasmine rice was provided with the fish, serving as an apt accompaniment.
Our final tipple was the 2015 AleSmith Beer Geek Speedway, an imperial oatmeal stout with Kopi Luwak coffee, created in collaboration with Mikkeller. The beer smelled of roasty coffee interlaced with cocoa and dark fruits, while palate-wise, I got plenty more of those bitter, roasty notes, along with complementary malty, fruity nuances, all rendered in a pretty easy-drinking package. I last tasted this beer a decade ago, right when it was released, and it actually aged better than I expected, with the civet coffee still making its presence known.
4: Cendol Sundae | coconut pandan ice cream, pandan jelly noodles, red bean, gula melaka syrup, puffed rice
It was now time for dessert, and our first turned out to be one of the better sundaes I've had. The essence of pandan was masterfully conveyed here, and I enjoyed how well the multitude of tastes and textures all melded together. I especially appreciated the nutty crunch from the puffed rice.
Passion Fruit Cream Pie [$12.00] | passion fruit custard, whipped cream, graham cracker crust, passion fruit syrup
Tonight's "birthday cake" was also a clear winner. I often find the tart, tropical nature of passion fruit a bit domineering, but that was never an issue here. The fruit was presented in such an elegant manner, and I was a big fan of the contribution offered up by that crumbly graham cracker crust as well.
The impetus for this restaurant was born out of the Chef's long-held fascination with the culinary traditions of the Chinese diaspora, which led him down the rabbit hole of Peranakan cooking and eventually to the genesis of Rasarumah. This place serves as a celebration of that style of food, and Malaysian food as a whole, and is something I feel LA can really benefit from. Lee's doing justice to the cuisine while also imbuing it with some of his personal touches, and I get the sense that Rasarumah could become a go-to spot of mine in the area. I'm hoping it'll stick around longer than PRD, that's for sure.
posted by kevinEats at
6:05 PM
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