Maison Kanatha (Los Angeles, CA)
Maison Kanatha Restaurant
250 1st St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
restaurants.kaneyoshi.us/maisonkanatha.html
Sat 03/14/2026, 06:45p-09:40p
At this point, I think it's safe to say that Little Tokyo's Sushi Kaneyoshi is one of the most well-regarded sushi-ya in LA. However, back in March last year, itamae Yoshiyuki Inoue decided to up his game by introducing the Premium Room, a more purist expression of his sushi prowess situated in a separate, more intimate setting, available only during weekends. Thus, the question naturally arose of what was going to take over the Kaneyoshi space while it's sitting unused. Fortunately, we didn't have to wait too long to find out.
November 2025 saw the debut of Maison Kanatha, a French-Japanese-Thai "omakase" concept led by Chef Shingo Kato (加藤眞吾, Katō Shingo), whom we first encountered at Uka in Hollywood and last encountered at Restaurant Ki down the hallway. His second-in-command is sous Nathathai "Niki" Vanichsiriwat, a Bangkok native and Silpakorn University alumna who's worked at both Kaneyoshi and Bar Sawa.
A fun fact: The restaurant's moniker is a portmanteau of "Ka" and "Natha," taken from the Chefs' names. A secondary meaning references the Japanese word kanata (彼方), which denotes a distant destination.
Of course, Maison Kanatha is part of the "Kaneyoshiplex," set in the basement of Downtown's Hayahiko Takase-penned Kajima Building. As we see, the decor has not been altered, which makes sense given that the room is still being utilized for the standard iteration of Sushi Kaneyoshi during weekdays. Pictured above is the view from my seat at the 11-seater counter, fourth position from the left.
Maison Kanatha's 14-course tasting menu is priced at $220 a head. To drink, you'll find a small selection of sake, wine, and beer, while corkage is $100 a bottle. You can also order from Bar Sawa, which expands your beverage options considerably. Click for larger versions.
The place setting, replete with one of the restaurant's new coasters and a chilled oshibori.
Yuzu Whisky Sour [$17.00]
Libation-wise, we kicked things off with a quartet of cocktails from Bar Sawa. Up first was a variation on your classic whiskey sour, one that did a nice job incorporating the more complex, more fragrant citrusiness of yuzu.
1: Crispy Kadaifi Eel | with Shinjo Sam Kler
A wonderfully crisp, kadayif-crusted exterior encased a combination of sweet, springy, sam kler-spiced ebi shinjo and the somewhat more saline nature of unagi. At the same time, the duo of lime zest and what I believe was a soy-based dressing gave the bite a welcomed pinch of piquancy. A strong start.
Gyokuro Martini [$17.00]
My favorite cocktail was this riff on the martini, one that highlighted the astringency and umami of the green tea, layered over the drink's expectedly boozy base. Not a bad apéritif.
2: Astrea Caviar | with White Sesame Mousse
The caviar course was a favorite of mine thanks to how cleverly the brine of the roe played with the trademark nutty-sweetness of sesame. It was a deft marriage of the luxe and the familiar, well moderated by the more restrained flavors of that shoyu-enhanced jelly.
Roku & Genmai Tea [$17.00]
Cocktail number three was a fairly subdued combination of toasty, nutty genmaicha and gin. I wanted the tea to be more apparent here.
We were then shown skewers of sablefish, to be used in our next course.
3: Charcoal Grilled Black Cod | with Holy Basil Sauce
Grilled gindara demonstrated a splendid sweetness and smoke, the lush, fatty fish marrying easily with the unmistakable, long-lingering pungency of kaphrao. The holy basil sauce actually served as an integrating force between the fish and that grilled maitake. Additional interest was provided by pickled cucumbers and a few drops of Thai chili oil.
Japanese White Linen [$17.00]
The fourth and final cocktail was a relaxed, easy-drinking number that blended the freshness of kyūri with the floral-sweetness of elderflower.
4: Cold Asparagus Soup | with Shrimp
A cool, refreshing, summery soup meshed the brightness of asparagus and snap pea with the subtly oceany qualities of raw blue shrimp and the sweetness of a coconut cream foam, all while that shattery tuile imparted both crunch and savor. I wonder how a bit of heat would work out here, to perk things up a tad.
As part of celebrations for this blog's twentieth anniversary, I'm focusing on drinking 20-year-old bottles this year, hence the 2006 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune. The wine is probably the most iconic of Alsatian Rieslings, crafted by a producer that traces its roots back to 1626 and made using grapes sourced from the Rosacker lieu-dit, a Grand Cru vineyard in the village of Hunawihr. I found a dense nose of waxy stone fruits, honey, and citrus that blended a palpable maturity with fresher elements. In the mouth, this was thick and velvety, with loads of that aforementioned honey and stone fruit, commingling with permeating floral nuances, sweet spices, and oxidative notes. After 50 minutes, the Riesling's honeycomb and apricot aromas were joined by a marked petrol component, while the palate became a bit spicier. I found the wine quite intriguing and enjoyable thanks to how well its tertiary characteristics were making themselves known--a fitting match with the food.
5: Crispy Tart | with Squid and Carrot Râpé
An ultra-shattery tart shell immediately caught my attention, which then led to the signature sweetness of carrot, juxtaposed with the slick, saline character of slivered squid. However, I think I would've preferred this with a more assertive dressing to more forcefully tie the various ingredients together.
6: Tomato and Spot Prawn | with Mozuku Seaweed
Shards of botan ebi were spot-on texturally, and meshed beautifully with a Thai-style broth containing cilantro, Thai chili, and fish sauce. I was also a fan of the tartness and juiciness imparted by the tomatoes, but even better was the vinegared seaweed, which lent an overarching, oceany tang that effectively bound the dish together. Another favorite.
Here we see Sous Chef Niki using charcoal to sear slices of Japanese bluefin, which I believe came from the head or cheek area of the fish. The tuna was put to use in miniature hamburgers, which were then presented by Chef Shingo.
7: Mini Burger | with Charcoal Seared Bluefin Tuna
A fun-size burger really showcased the sweet, luscious, umami-laden attributes of the tuna, melded with pickled apple and cream cheese. Shiso lightened the mood a touch, and that tender housemade milk bread bun served its role admirably. My quibble here is that I would've liked to have gotten more smoke from the charring process.
8: Green Curry | in Pani Puri with Snow Crab
An untraditional panipuri featured an agreeably crunchy, rice-boosted shell filled with the cozy flavors of Thai green curry, and those familiar notes worked surprisingly well with the cool, sweet, saline shreds of zuwaigani. I could've easily popped a few more of these.
Our second two-decade bottle was a white Bordeaux, the 2006 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc, coming to us from Pessac-Léognan. Interestingly, this was actually the third-to-last bottling of the Sémillon-Sauvignon blanc blend, as following the '08 vintage, the wine was renamed to simply the white version of Château La Mission Haut-Brion (the two estates share the same owner). Initial aromas were on the tertiary, oxidative side, with brine and barnyard backed by a healthy amount of honey. Taking a sip, I found lush tropical fruits, sweet flowers, and nuts, all rendered in a mature, oxidative fashion. After half an hour, there wasn't much movement on the nose, but the palate turned even sweeter and more honeyed, with loads of apricot appearing.
9: Chawanmushi | with Onion Soup
This was probably the most unusual chawanmushi I've ever tasted, and I mean that in a good way. The key was that layer of fish stock-augmented soupe à l'oignon on top, which offered a heady sweet-savoriness that was evened out by the egg custard itself, along with the chicken and spinach contained within.
Visually, the fried seabream for our next course reminded me a bit of Shanghainese táitiáo huángyú (苔条黄鱼).
10: Sea Bream Beignet | with Yuzu Sake Cream Sauce
Shingo-san described what we have here as a "French-style tempura," and that's a pretty fitting description. The fish ate wonderfully supple and juicy, and its tender interior contrasted swimmingly with that crispy, seaweed-studded outside. Said seaweed imparted a superb grassiness, and the inclusion of that sweet, buttery sauce and bitter greens completed the equation for me. Humorously, one of my dining companions likened this dish's scent to that of Cheetos, and I could totally see where he was coming from.
Chef Kato-san showing off some well-marbled slices of steak (rib eye I assume) for the course to follow.
11: American Wagyu Shabu Shabu | with Tamarind Ponzu Sauce
Those cuts of beef were then cooked in the manner of shabu-shabu and paired with a delightfully sweet, zippy, funky, Thai-inspired sauce that included tamarind, culantro, and shallot. Given those strong tastes at play, the bitter bite of Chinese broccoli, turnip, and onion was crucial in providing some balance. Another highlight for me.
With the wine dispensed with, we moved on to some beer, specifically the Mori to Mori Rice Ale [$14], which comes to us from Far Yeast Brewing Company out of the village of Kosuge in Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan. Made with sake yeast, I found this to be a lovely brew, its refreshingly ricey, floral, and juicy stone fruit notes nicely paired with a pervasive hop bitterness.
12: Somen Noodles | in Shrimp Tom Yum Soup
The savory portion of dinner concluded with what was essentially a shime course. Slick, silky sōmen noodles were set in a delectably sweet, herby, tom yam-inspired broth made with shrimp heads. It was a pretty smart pairing, one made all the better by the inclusion of those rare cuts of hirame flounder, with myoga providing additional hits of zestiness.
13: Passion Fruits Coconut
Our first dessert was on the fun, refreshing side. A sweet-tart passion fruit granita was matched with coconut cream, while hiding inside were apple "rubies" covered in tapioca.
Accompanying dessert was a cup of hot, nutty, roasty tea.
14: Pudding | with Blackberry Sauce
Finally, a take on purin brought together Japanese egg pudding, sundry berries, and blackberry sauce, with that almond cookie on top offering up additional taste and texture.
At the end of our experience, we each received a small portion of green tea cake to take home, which I enjoyed shortly after I made it back to my house.
It's not clear if Maison Kanatha will be taking over the Kaneyoshi space permanently, but I do hope it can stick around, even in a different location, as I really enjoyed tonight's meal. The French, Japanese, and Thai influences in the cooking were incorporated rather seamlessly. I didn't find any of the three overly domineering, and they just seemed to flow between each other naturally. In essence, the "fusion" aspect of the cuisine doesn't really draw attention to itself, but instead, it almost seems like all the flavors were always meant to be. In terms of recent LA restaurant debuts, I'd put this place at the top of your "must-try" list.
250 1st St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
restaurants.kaneyoshi.us/maisonkanatha.html
Sat 03/14/2026, 06:45p-09:40p
At this point, I think it's safe to say that Little Tokyo's Sushi Kaneyoshi is one of the most well-regarded sushi-ya in LA. However, back in March last year, itamae Yoshiyuki Inoue decided to up his game by introducing the Premium Room, a more purist expression of his sushi prowess situated in a separate, more intimate setting, available only during weekends. Thus, the question naturally arose of what was going to take over the Kaneyoshi space while it's sitting unused. Fortunately, we didn't have to wait too long to find out.
November 2025 saw the debut of Maison Kanatha, a French-Japanese-Thai "omakase" concept led by Chef Shingo Kato (加藤眞吾, Katō Shingo), whom we first encountered at Uka in Hollywood and last encountered at Restaurant Ki down the hallway. His second-in-command is sous Nathathai "Niki" Vanichsiriwat, a Bangkok native and Silpakorn University alumna who's worked at both Kaneyoshi and Bar Sawa.
A fun fact: The restaurant's moniker is a portmanteau of "Ka" and "Natha," taken from the Chefs' names. A secondary meaning references the Japanese word kanata (彼方), which denotes a distant destination.
Of course, Maison Kanatha is part of the "Kaneyoshiplex," set in the basement of Downtown's Hayahiko Takase-penned Kajima Building. As we see, the decor has not been altered, which makes sense given that the room is still being utilized for the standard iteration of Sushi Kaneyoshi during weekdays. Pictured above is the view from my seat at the 11-seater counter, fourth position from the left.
Maison Kanatha's 14-course tasting menu is priced at $220 a head. To drink, you'll find a small selection of sake, wine, and beer, while corkage is $100 a bottle. You can also order from Bar Sawa, which expands your beverage options considerably. Click for larger versions.
The place setting, replete with one of the restaurant's new coasters and a chilled oshibori.
Yuzu Whisky Sour [$17.00]
Libation-wise, we kicked things off with a quartet of cocktails from Bar Sawa. Up first was a variation on your classic whiskey sour, one that did a nice job incorporating the more complex, more fragrant citrusiness of yuzu.
1: Crispy Kadaifi Eel | with Shinjo Sam Kler
A wonderfully crisp, kadayif-crusted exterior encased a combination of sweet, springy, sam kler-spiced ebi shinjo and the somewhat more saline nature of unagi. At the same time, the duo of lime zest and what I believe was a soy-based dressing gave the bite a welcomed pinch of piquancy. A strong start.
Gyokuro Martini [$17.00]
My favorite cocktail was this riff on the martini, one that highlighted the astringency and umami of the green tea, layered over the drink's expectedly boozy base. Not a bad apéritif.
2: Astrea Caviar | with White Sesame Mousse
The caviar course was a favorite of mine thanks to how cleverly the brine of the roe played with the trademark nutty-sweetness of sesame. It was a deft marriage of the luxe and the familiar, well moderated by the more restrained flavors of that shoyu-enhanced jelly.
Roku & Genmai Tea [$17.00]
Cocktail number three was a fairly subdued combination of toasty, nutty genmaicha and gin. I wanted the tea to be more apparent here.
We were then shown skewers of sablefish, to be used in our next course.
3: Charcoal Grilled Black Cod | with Holy Basil Sauce
Grilled gindara demonstrated a splendid sweetness and smoke, the lush, fatty fish marrying easily with the unmistakable, long-lingering pungency of kaphrao. The holy basil sauce actually served as an integrating force between the fish and that grilled maitake. Additional interest was provided by pickled cucumbers and a few drops of Thai chili oil.
Japanese White Linen [$17.00]
The fourth and final cocktail was a relaxed, easy-drinking number that blended the freshness of kyūri with the floral-sweetness of elderflower.
4: Cold Asparagus Soup | with Shrimp
A cool, refreshing, summery soup meshed the brightness of asparagus and snap pea with the subtly oceany qualities of raw blue shrimp and the sweetness of a coconut cream foam, all while that shattery tuile imparted both crunch and savor. I wonder how a bit of heat would work out here, to perk things up a tad.
As part of celebrations for this blog's twentieth anniversary, I'm focusing on drinking 20-year-old bottles this year, hence the 2006 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune. The wine is probably the most iconic of Alsatian Rieslings, crafted by a producer that traces its roots back to 1626 and made using grapes sourced from the Rosacker lieu-dit, a Grand Cru vineyard in the village of Hunawihr. I found a dense nose of waxy stone fruits, honey, and citrus that blended a palpable maturity with fresher elements. In the mouth, this was thick and velvety, with loads of that aforementioned honey and stone fruit, commingling with permeating floral nuances, sweet spices, and oxidative notes. After 50 minutes, the Riesling's honeycomb and apricot aromas were joined by a marked petrol component, while the palate became a bit spicier. I found the wine quite intriguing and enjoyable thanks to how well its tertiary characteristics were making themselves known--a fitting match with the food.
5: Crispy Tart | with Squid and Carrot Râpé
An ultra-shattery tart shell immediately caught my attention, which then led to the signature sweetness of carrot, juxtaposed with the slick, saline character of slivered squid. However, I think I would've preferred this with a more assertive dressing to more forcefully tie the various ingredients together.
6: Tomato and Spot Prawn | with Mozuku Seaweed
Shards of botan ebi were spot-on texturally, and meshed beautifully with a Thai-style broth containing cilantro, Thai chili, and fish sauce. I was also a fan of the tartness and juiciness imparted by the tomatoes, but even better was the vinegared seaweed, which lent an overarching, oceany tang that effectively bound the dish together. Another favorite.
Here we see Sous Chef Niki using charcoal to sear slices of Japanese bluefin, which I believe came from the head or cheek area of the fish. The tuna was put to use in miniature hamburgers, which were then presented by Chef Shingo.
7: Mini Burger | with Charcoal Seared Bluefin Tuna
A fun-size burger really showcased the sweet, luscious, umami-laden attributes of the tuna, melded with pickled apple and cream cheese. Shiso lightened the mood a touch, and that tender housemade milk bread bun served its role admirably. My quibble here is that I would've liked to have gotten more smoke from the charring process.
8: Green Curry | in Pani Puri with Snow Crab
An untraditional panipuri featured an agreeably crunchy, rice-boosted shell filled with the cozy flavors of Thai green curry, and those familiar notes worked surprisingly well with the cool, sweet, saline shreds of zuwaigani. I could've easily popped a few more of these.
Our second two-decade bottle was a white Bordeaux, the 2006 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc, coming to us from Pessac-Léognan. Interestingly, this was actually the third-to-last bottling of the Sémillon-Sauvignon blanc blend, as following the '08 vintage, the wine was renamed to simply the white version of Château La Mission Haut-Brion (the two estates share the same owner). Initial aromas were on the tertiary, oxidative side, with brine and barnyard backed by a healthy amount of honey. Taking a sip, I found lush tropical fruits, sweet flowers, and nuts, all rendered in a mature, oxidative fashion. After half an hour, there wasn't much movement on the nose, but the palate turned even sweeter and more honeyed, with loads of apricot appearing.
9: Chawanmushi | with Onion Soup
This was probably the most unusual chawanmushi I've ever tasted, and I mean that in a good way. The key was that layer of fish stock-augmented soupe à l'oignon on top, which offered a heady sweet-savoriness that was evened out by the egg custard itself, along with the chicken and spinach contained within.
Visually, the fried seabream for our next course reminded me a bit of Shanghainese táitiáo huángyú (苔条黄鱼).
10: Sea Bream Beignet | with Yuzu Sake Cream Sauce
Shingo-san described what we have here as a "French-style tempura," and that's a pretty fitting description. The fish ate wonderfully supple and juicy, and its tender interior contrasted swimmingly with that crispy, seaweed-studded outside. Said seaweed imparted a superb grassiness, and the inclusion of that sweet, buttery sauce and bitter greens completed the equation for me. Humorously, one of my dining companions likened this dish's scent to that of Cheetos, and I could totally see where he was coming from.
Chef Kato-san showing off some well-marbled slices of steak (rib eye I assume) for the course to follow.
11: American Wagyu Shabu Shabu | with Tamarind Ponzu Sauce
Those cuts of beef were then cooked in the manner of shabu-shabu and paired with a delightfully sweet, zippy, funky, Thai-inspired sauce that included tamarind, culantro, and shallot. Given those strong tastes at play, the bitter bite of Chinese broccoli, turnip, and onion was crucial in providing some balance. Another highlight for me.
With the wine dispensed with, we moved on to some beer, specifically the Mori to Mori Rice Ale [$14], which comes to us from Far Yeast Brewing Company out of the village of Kosuge in Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan. Made with sake yeast, I found this to be a lovely brew, its refreshingly ricey, floral, and juicy stone fruit notes nicely paired with a pervasive hop bitterness.
12: Somen Noodles | in Shrimp Tom Yum Soup
The savory portion of dinner concluded with what was essentially a shime course. Slick, silky sōmen noodles were set in a delectably sweet, herby, tom yam-inspired broth made with shrimp heads. It was a pretty smart pairing, one made all the better by the inclusion of those rare cuts of hirame flounder, with myoga providing additional hits of zestiness.
13: Passion Fruits Coconut
Our first dessert was on the fun, refreshing side. A sweet-tart passion fruit granita was matched with coconut cream, while hiding inside were apple "rubies" covered in tapioca.
Accompanying dessert was a cup of hot, nutty, roasty tea.
14: Pudding | with Blackberry Sauce
Finally, a take on purin brought together Japanese egg pudding, sundry berries, and blackberry sauce, with that almond cookie on top offering up additional taste and texture.
At the end of our experience, we each received a small portion of green tea cake to take home, which I enjoyed shortly after I made it back to my house.
It's not clear if Maison Kanatha will be taking over the Kaneyoshi space permanently, but I do hope it can stick around, even in a different location, as I really enjoyed tonight's meal. The French, Japanese, and Thai influences in the cooking were incorporated rather seamlessly. I didn't find any of the three overly domineering, and they just seemed to flow between each other naturally. In essence, the "fusion" aspect of the cuisine doesn't really draw attention to itself, but instead, it almost seems like all the flavors were always meant to be. In terms of recent LA restaurant debuts, I'd put this place at the top of your "must-try" list.
posted by kevinEats at
6:45 PM
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