Firstborn (Los Angeles, CA) [2]
Firstborn Restaurant
978 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213-537-0142
www.firstborn.la
Sun 05/17/2026, 05:30p-08:15p
You may recall that I posted about a meal I had at Firstborn in Chinatown last year. I quite enjoyed that dinner, finding Chef Anthony Wang's interpretation of modern Chinese-American cooking creative, nostalgic, and just generally to my liking. Thus, when the restaurant switched over to a prix fixe menu format on February 7th, I was curious to go back and experience the new changes. A recent birthday dinner proved to be the perfect excuse to do just that.
Given that we were a large party, we didn't have access to standard $68 four-course prix fixe, but instead were provided a family-style spread priced at $120 per person. I didn't mind this, as we basically got to try the entire menu, supplements included. Also pictured above are Firstborn's array of cocktails, its Old World-centric wine list (managed by GM Lisa Witkowski), and the spirits selection. Corkage is $45, though the fee didn't appear on our bill, which I'm not sure was intentional or not. Click for larger versions.
Kumquat & Apricot [$20.00] | Kumquat Shrub, Dudognon Selection Cognac, Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao, Reisetbauer Apricot Eau de Vie, Lemon
We ended up making our way through most of Kenzo Han's cocktail list, starting with this rather puckering concoction that really drew attention to the acidic nature of that shrub. This was kept in check by the structure and substance of that brandy troika, while lemon imparted an overarching sourness.
Canapé: Celery root blini, crème fraiche, N25 ossetra caviar, reduction of apple and black vinegar
A classic-ish presentation of caviar combined the roe with zesty green onion, crème fraîche, and the moderating effect of those blinis, but what kept me on my toes was the permeating piquancy of apple-plus-vinegar.
Peach [$19.00] | Regier Yellow Peaches, Capurro Quebranta Pisco, Suntory Roku Gin, Leopold Bros Absinthe Verte, CO2
This easy-going cocktail highlighted the sweetness of stone fruit, layered over a base of gin and pisco. What set this apart, though, was the herbaceous, medicinal nature of the absinthe, which served as the perfect finisher.
Bread Service: Bub & Grandma's Sesame Sourdough | Bordier demi sel butter
I've been a proponent of Bub & Grandma's bread for years now, so I was glad to see it on the menu tonight. The sourdough had the crisp crust and tender crumb I was looking for, while its nutty, toasty qualities matched up swimmingly with that smear of silky salty-sweet butter.
Bourbon Fizz [$18.00] | Kettl Sobacha, Old Grand-Dad Bonded Bourbon, Ramazotti, Honey, Lemon, Egg White, Topo Chico
This fun take on a fizz definitely showcased the roastiness and nuttiness of buckwheat tea. At the same time, the cocktail's whiskey base certainly made itself known, as did its undercurrent of astringency. I quite liked the generous amount of fluffy, frothy foam here, too.
1a: Chilled leeks, white asparagus, soy-almond vinaigrette, cherries, lovage
Our first "proper" course was a favorite of mine. The crux was the back-and-forth between the bitterness of asparagus and the celery-tinged sweetness of lovage-marinated cherry, tied together by that soy-almond vin while the leeks imparted a lovely zestiness on the back end. Pretty neat.
Paloma [$19.00] | Red Szechuan Peppercorn, Agua Del Sol Espadin Mezcal, Lillet Blanc, Maraschino, Grapefruit Juice + Zest, Topo Chico
A riff on the classic paloma cocktail was more floral and more multifaceted than most, with plenty of citrus and a very palpable base of mezcal.
1b: Wagyu beef tongue carpaccio, fermented kohlrabi, mala vinaigrette, arugula
I'm quite the fan of beef tongue in general, and this dish certainly did the cut justice. The deep, unabashedly bovine flavors of the offal were well conveyed, and juxtaposed seamlessly with the punchiness of that vinaigrette/mustard seed/arugula three-way. Meanwhile, crunchy, zippy slices of kohlrabi offered further contrast.
Toasted Fig Leaf [$18.00] | Toasted Fig Leaf, Saison Triple Cask Jamaica, Clairin Pignon Méles Augustín Normil, Demerara, Angostura Bitters
This next cocktail was probably the booziest of the bunch, but also quite beguiling. What stood out to me was the candied, confectionary qualities imparted by the fig leaf, and how that commingled with the rum duet and the drink's plethora of brown butter-y, dark sugar-y notes and hints of sweet spice.
1c: Trout tartare, tomato water, white guava, cucumber, fig leaf
Here, I appreciated how Wang utilized guava to lend a fruitiness to the dish that married surprisingly well with the trout. This was all joined by complementary fresh, herby nuances, while the veggies also provided some textural variation.
Strawberry, Goat Cheese, Jasmine [$20.00] | Oxnard Strawberries, Goat Cheese, Saison Pale Rum, Clairin Milot, Rhum JM 110, Snow Jasmine, CO2
Unsurprisingly, this turned out to be a fun, fruity, fizzy drink, one that spotlighted the strawberry, sure, but also the trio of sugarcane spirits and a touch of grassy fragrance.
2a: Duck sausage en crépinette, apple condiment, red braised daikon, swiss chard
I'm a sucker for sausage, so naturally I was a fan of what we had here. The mince was delectably flavored, with a fine-grained yet gratifying mouthfeel, and linked up easily with those bitter, juicy, savory cylinders of radish. Even more crucial, though, was the sharper, earthier counterpoint from the chard.
Kingston Negroni [$18.00] | Ming River Baijiu, Smith & Cross Rum, Campari, Cocchi Vermouth Di Torino, Green Tangerine Pu-Erh, Lime
The unmistakably potent nature of báijiǔ was clearly displayed, tempered just a smidge by the rum, while working to offset those strong flavors further were the drink's fruitier components and the fragrance from the tea.
2b: Stuffed morels, tofu and mushroom parfait, young peas, green garlic, buddha's hand
Morels are almost always a treat, and here, the 'shrooms' woodsy, umami-laden flavors went hand-in-hand with the brightness of pea, citrus, and green garlic. A tasty take on the classic pairing of morel and pea.
White Negroni [$18.00] | Song Cai Floral Gin, Tequila Ocho Blanco, Lillet Blanc, Saler's Aperitif, Grapefruit Oil
A reimagined negroni met the mark, presenting itself as fruitier and more floral than usual, but with the drink's classic bittersweet, botanical profile still intact. Note that we weren't charged for this cocktail, which, again, I'm not sure was intended or not.
2c: Mapo tofu, roast sweetbreads, koshihikari rice
Mápó dòufu is a childhood favorite of mine, and I definitely appreciated the depth, savor, and málà of the version we had tonight. The sweetbread was spot-on in terms of tenderness and juiciness, and its assertive nature stood up well to all the heady flavors going on. I would've liked more actual tofu, though. Meanwhile, that rice was just what I wanted texturally, and worked as the consummate partner to the dish.
At this point, I brought out a bottle of the 2006 Mollydooker Velvet Glove Shiraz from my twentieth anniversary collection. The wine comes to us from South Australia's Fleurieu's region, specifically the McLaren Vale appellation, and is one of the country's most celebrated Syrahs. And coincidentally, the '06 that we had tonight was actually the first-ever vintage of this label. Initial whiffs brought loads of dark, plummy fruit all over the place. Palate-wise, think plush tannins and even plusher black fruit, with opposing elements of herb and spice. Half-an-hour in, the nose became noticeably more tertiary, but was nonetheless teeming with purple fruit. In the mouth, still massive amounts of jammy berry, but now with an offsetting earthiness that fit the bill nicely. Overall, a powerful, fruit-forward wine that certainly stood up to the heartier courses to follow.
3a: Fried boneless leg of chicken, morita chili crisp jus, soy pickles
Wang's become somewhat known for his fried chicken, and for good reason. The bird was just what I was hoping for with regard to suppleness and succulence, and boasted a satisfyingly substantial crust to boot. I was also a big fan of the chicken's seasoning, and how that melded with the prickly heat of chili crisp, all while pickles toned things down a tad.
3b: Grilled short rib, black garlic, cabbage and leek terrine, yuxiang, pepper jus
Short rib showcased the dark, sticky, fatty flavors I was expecting, perked up by the sour, gingery tang of yúxiāng, with the cabbage-leek combo proffering counterbalancing hits of bitterness and smoke.
3c: Dry aged Liberty duck breast, cauliflower, jasmine-peach, soubise
Duck arrived brimming with all the anatine funk and sweet-spicing that you'd want, and showed off a rather lovely layer of skin, too. Given the bird's considerable heft, I really enjoyed the bitterness and crunch provided by the cauliflower, while the sugariness of the peaches worked out better than I expected.
Chet Baker {Sam Ross, Milk & Honey, 2005} [$18.00] | Saison Triple Cask Jamaica, Cocchi Vermouth Di Torino, Honey, Angostura Bitters, Orange Coin
The night's final cocktail falls squarely into the "modern classic" category, and I can sort of see why thanks to how well the drink's honeyed fruit character played with all the boozy, bitter, botanical, and brown butter notes present.
4a: Roasted strawberry, lemongrass, cashew butter
Time for Pastry Chef Jaime Craten's desserts. Our first did a commendable job bringing together strawberries and nutty notes of cashew, the lemongrass imparting just a shred of zestiness. Some nice textures here, too.
4b: Lime leaf curd, cashew dacquoise, coconut, white chocolate
Our second dessert was even better, and really drew attention to the bright, pungent, citrusy nature of lime leaf, smartly softened by cashew cake, white chocolate, and a coconut bavarois.
As for the new prix fixe format, if a more structured approach makes for more consistency and financial sense, then by all means go for it. More important is the actual food, which seems just that much tighter, just that much more focused, but crucially, remains just as personal as ever. I had no qualms with the service, either. Overall, the cooking has evolved quite nicely since my last visit, and I'll be looking forward to seeing further growth and development from Wang and his team in the future. This is definitely a must-try spot if you're looking to dine anywhere around Chinatown.
978 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213-537-0142
www.firstborn.la
Sun 05/17/2026, 05:30p-08:15p
You may recall that I posted about a meal I had at Firstborn in Chinatown last year. I quite enjoyed that dinner, finding Chef Anthony Wang's interpretation of modern Chinese-American cooking creative, nostalgic, and just generally to my liking. Thus, when the restaurant switched over to a prix fixe menu format on February 7th, I was curious to go back and experience the new changes. A recent birthday dinner proved to be the perfect excuse to do just that.
Given that we were a large party, we didn't have access to standard $68 four-course prix fixe, but instead were provided a family-style spread priced at $120 per person. I didn't mind this, as we basically got to try the entire menu, supplements included. Also pictured above are Firstborn's array of cocktails, its Old World-centric wine list (managed by GM Lisa Witkowski), and the spirits selection. Corkage is $45, though the fee didn't appear on our bill, which I'm not sure was intentional or not. Click for larger versions.
Kumquat & Apricot [$20.00] | Kumquat Shrub, Dudognon Selection Cognac, Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao, Reisetbauer Apricot Eau de Vie, Lemon
We ended up making our way through most of Kenzo Han's cocktail list, starting with this rather puckering concoction that really drew attention to the acidic nature of that shrub. This was kept in check by the structure and substance of that brandy troika, while lemon imparted an overarching sourness.
Canapé: Celery root blini, crème fraiche, N25 ossetra caviar, reduction of apple and black vinegar
A classic-ish presentation of caviar combined the roe with zesty green onion, crème fraîche, and the moderating effect of those blinis, but what kept me on my toes was the permeating piquancy of apple-plus-vinegar.
Peach [$19.00] | Regier Yellow Peaches, Capurro Quebranta Pisco, Suntory Roku Gin, Leopold Bros Absinthe Verte, CO2
This easy-going cocktail highlighted the sweetness of stone fruit, layered over a base of gin and pisco. What set this apart, though, was the herbaceous, medicinal nature of the absinthe, which served as the perfect finisher.
Bread Service: Bub & Grandma's Sesame Sourdough | Bordier demi sel butter
I've been a proponent of Bub & Grandma's bread for years now, so I was glad to see it on the menu tonight. The sourdough had the crisp crust and tender crumb I was looking for, while its nutty, toasty qualities matched up swimmingly with that smear of silky salty-sweet butter.
Bourbon Fizz [$18.00] | Kettl Sobacha, Old Grand-Dad Bonded Bourbon, Ramazotti, Honey, Lemon, Egg White, Topo Chico
This fun take on a fizz definitely showcased the roastiness and nuttiness of buckwheat tea. At the same time, the cocktail's whiskey base certainly made itself known, as did its undercurrent of astringency. I quite liked the generous amount of fluffy, frothy foam here, too.
1a: Chilled leeks, white asparagus, soy-almond vinaigrette, cherries, lovage
Our first "proper" course was a favorite of mine. The crux was the back-and-forth between the bitterness of asparagus and the celery-tinged sweetness of lovage-marinated cherry, tied together by that soy-almond vin while the leeks imparted a lovely zestiness on the back end. Pretty neat.
Paloma [$19.00] | Red Szechuan Peppercorn, Agua Del Sol Espadin Mezcal, Lillet Blanc, Maraschino, Grapefruit Juice + Zest, Topo Chico
A riff on the classic paloma cocktail was more floral and more multifaceted than most, with plenty of citrus and a very palpable base of mezcal.
1b: Wagyu beef tongue carpaccio, fermented kohlrabi, mala vinaigrette, arugula
I'm quite the fan of beef tongue in general, and this dish certainly did the cut justice. The deep, unabashedly bovine flavors of the offal were well conveyed, and juxtaposed seamlessly with the punchiness of that vinaigrette/mustard seed/arugula three-way. Meanwhile, crunchy, zippy slices of kohlrabi offered further contrast.
Toasted Fig Leaf [$18.00] | Toasted Fig Leaf, Saison Triple Cask Jamaica, Clairin Pignon Méles Augustín Normil, Demerara, Angostura Bitters
This next cocktail was probably the booziest of the bunch, but also quite beguiling. What stood out to me was the candied, confectionary qualities imparted by the fig leaf, and how that commingled with the rum duet and the drink's plethora of brown butter-y, dark sugar-y notes and hints of sweet spice.
1c: Trout tartare, tomato water, white guava, cucumber, fig leaf
Here, I appreciated how Wang utilized guava to lend a fruitiness to the dish that married surprisingly well with the trout. This was all joined by complementary fresh, herby nuances, while the veggies also provided some textural variation.
Strawberry, Goat Cheese, Jasmine [$20.00] | Oxnard Strawberries, Goat Cheese, Saison Pale Rum, Clairin Milot, Rhum JM 110, Snow Jasmine, CO2
Unsurprisingly, this turned out to be a fun, fruity, fizzy drink, one that spotlighted the strawberry, sure, but also the trio of sugarcane spirits and a touch of grassy fragrance.
2a: Duck sausage en crépinette, apple condiment, red braised daikon, swiss chard
I'm a sucker for sausage, so naturally I was a fan of what we had here. The mince was delectably flavored, with a fine-grained yet gratifying mouthfeel, and linked up easily with those bitter, juicy, savory cylinders of radish. Even more crucial, though, was the sharper, earthier counterpoint from the chard.
Kingston Negroni [$18.00] | Ming River Baijiu, Smith & Cross Rum, Campari, Cocchi Vermouth Di Torino, Green Tangerine Pu-Erh, Lime
The unmistakably potent nature of báijiǔ was clearly displayed, tempered just a smidge by the rum, while working to offset those strong flavors further were the drink's fruitier components and the fragrance from the tea.
2b: Stuffed morels, tofu and mushroom parfait, young peas, green garlic, buddha's hand
Morels are almost always a treat, and here, the 'shrooms' woodsy, umami-laden flavors went hand-in-hand with the brightness of pea, citrus, and green garlic. A tasty take on the classic pairing of morel and pea.
White Negroni [$18.00] | Song Cai Floral Gin, Tequila Ocho Blanco, Lillet Blanc, Saler's Aperitif, Grapefruit Oil
A reimagined negroni met the mark, presenting itself as fruitier and more floral than usual, but with the drink's classic bittersweet, botanical profile still intact. Note that we weren't charged for this cocktail, which, again, I'm not sure was intended or not.
2c: Mapo tofu, roast sweetbreads, koshihikari rice
Mápó dòufu is a childhood favorite of mine, and I definitely appreciated the depth, savor, and málà of the version we had tonight. The sweetbread was spot-on in terms of tenderness and juiciness, and its assertive nature stood up well to all the heady flavors going on. I would've liked more actual tofu, though. Meanwhile, that rice was just what I wanted texturally, and worked as the consummate partner to the dish.
At this point, I brought out a bottle of the 2006 Mollydooker Velvet Glove Shiraz from my twentieth anniversary collection. The wine comes to us from South Australia's Fleurieu's region, specifically the McLaren Vale appellation, and is one of the country's most celebrated Syrahs. And coincidentally, the '06 that we had tonight was actually the first-ever vintage of this label. Initial whiffs brought loads of dark, plummy fruit all over the place. Palate-wise, think plush tannins and even plusher black fruit, with opposing elements of herb and spice. Half-an-hour in, the nose became noticeably more tertiary, but was nonetheless teeming with purple fruit. In the mouth, still massive amounts of jammy berry, but now with an offsetting earthiness that fit the bill nicely. Overall, a powerful, fruit-forward wine that certainly stood up to the heartier courses to follow.
3a: Fried boneless leg of chicken, morita chili crisp jus, soy pickles
Wang's become somewhat known for his fried chicken, and for good reason. The bird was just what I was hoping for with regard to suppleness and succulence, and boasted a satisfyingly substantial crust to boot. I was also a big fan of the chicken's seasoning, and how that melded with the prickly heat of chili crisp, all while pickles toned things down a tad.
3b: Grilled short rib, black garlic, cabbage and leek terrine, yuxiang, pepper jus
Short rib showcased the dark, sticky, fatty flavors I was expecting, perked up by the sour, gingery tang of yúxiāng, with the cabbage-leek combo proffering counterbalancing hits of bitterness and smoke.
3c: Dry aged Liberty duck breast, cauliflower, jasmine-peach, soubise
Duck arrived brimming with all the anatine funk and sweet-spicing that you'd want, and showed off a rather lovely layer of skin, too. Given the bird's considerable heft, I really enjoyed the bitterness and crunch provided by the cauliflower, while the sugariness of the peaches worked out better than I expected.
Chet Baker {Sam Ross, Milk & Honey, 2005} [$18.00] | Saison Triple Cask Jamaica, Cocchi Vermouth Di Torino, Honey, Angostura Bitters, Orange Coin
The night's final cocktail falls squarely into the "modern classic" category, and I can sort of see why thanks to how well the drink's honeyed fruit character played with all the boozy, bitter, botanical, and brown butter notes present.
4a: Roasted strawberry, lemongrass, cashew butter
Time for Pastry Chef Jaime Craten's desserts. Our first did a commendable job bringing together strawberries and nutty notes of cashew, the lemongrass imparting just a shred of zestiness. Some nice textures here, too.
4b: Lime leaf curd, cashew dacquoise, coconut, white chocolate
Our second dessert was even better, and really drew attention to the bright, pungent, citrusy nature of lime leaf, smartly softened by cashew cake, white chocolate, and a coconut bavarois.
As for the new prix fixe format, if a more structured approach makes for more consistency and financial sense, then by all means go for it. More important is the actual food, which seems just that much tighter, just that much more focused, but crucially, remains just as personal as ever. I had no qualms with the service, either. Overall, the cooking has evolved quite nicely since my last visit, and I'll be looking forward to seeing further growth and development from Wang and his team in the future. This is definitely a must-try spot if you're looking to dine anywhere around Chinatown.
posted by kevinEats at
5:30 PM
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