Tokyo Noir (Long Beach, CA)
Tokyo Noir Bar
1731 E 4th St, Long Beach, CA 90802
562-333-3333
www.tokyonoirbar.com
Wed 04/08/2026, 07:35p-10:55p
Back in the early/mid 2010s, I found myself spending more time around Buena Park, and eventually discovered Puzzle Bar in La Mirada. The place soon became my go-to cocktail bar, and the key to its appeal was the mixological prowess of head bartender-slash-owner Kevin Lee. Unfortunately for me, he left in 2018 to run the beverage program at The Wolves, which I was also a fan of. However, I lost track of Lee's whereabouts after his departure from the DTLA bar, but he recently popped up again at Tokyo Noir (東京ノワール), a Japanese-inspired watering hole in Long Beach's Retro Row, so naturally I had to pay him a visit.
About the Bartender: A Los Angeles-area native, Lee grew up in Cerritos and Fullerton, and supposedly began his hospitality career as a dishwasher. In 2012, he partnered with his brother and launched Puzzle Bar (퍼즐바) in a sleepy La Mirada strip mall, its name being a nod to the bar featured in How I Met Your Mother. Previously, the address had been home to Renaissance Cafe (르네상스) and Renaissance Butcher Shop (renamed 명가 정육점, or Myeongga Butcher Shop, during the Puzzle days), Kabuto, and Mario's Pizza and Spaghetti House if we want to go back even further. Lee began making a name for himself at Puzzle due to his level of dedication to the craft (e.g. hand-carved ice and homemade amari, bitters, vermouths, etc.)--never before seen in the area and which has still not been replicated to this day. Apparently though, that wasn't enough to sustain the business, and the bar shuttered on May 8th, 2018. The real estate at 14740 Beach Blvd was subsequently sold, and has seen a progression of new tenants: Haus Cafe, Bardot Bistro Cafe, Rio Picanha Boutique Steakhouse, Haus Pocha (포차), and most recently, Haus Lounge.
Lee would then team up with Al Almeida, Daniel Salin, and Isaac Mejia to launch The Wolves (and the omakase-inspired Le Néant in the back of the space) in Downtown LA, which bowed on September 13th, 2018. Although The Wolves was generally well-received, Lee decamped in October 2019 to work for Andrew Meiran, owner of Clifton's and The Edison. However, during the pandemic, he stepped away from the industry for three years before realizing that he really did miss bartending. Thus, he linked up with none other than Jesse Duron (Umi by Hamasaku, Phorage, Hamasaku, Miku, Gonpachi), as well as Ulises Piñeda-Alfaro (Umi by Hamasaku, Tikifish, Plan Check) and Joe Lin (who comes from the computer software world), and got to work on Tokyo Noir. The bar would grand-open on November 13th, 2024.
Tokyo Noir boasts a listening bar-inspired aesthetic, replete with a soundtrack of 1990s hip-hop played over tube-powered JBL L52 loudspeakers. It's situated in the back of El Barrio Cantina (open October '21) in North Alamitos Beach, in a building that was previously home to the longstanding Ashley's on Fourth (f.k.a. Ashley's Bar & Grill and Ashley's El Encanto), which traced its roots all the way back to 1938. El Barrio shares the same ownership team, and I'll also note that the concept started life as El Barrio Neighborhood Tacos, which launched in 2019 in Redondo Beach before moving to Palms (and closing in January last year). Pictured above is the view from my seat at the furthest-right position at the bar.
The cocktail list at Tokyo Noir is quite a sight to behold, with all of its thoughtful illustrations, and features drinks that really show off Lee's bartending chops. Meanwhile, if you're hungry, you'll also find a selection of izakaya-inspired fare. Click for larger versions.
Deviled Egg [$6.00] | Miso - Red Yuzukosho - Pickled Red Onion
Given my penchant for deviled eggs, I absolutely had to kick things off with an order. They didn't let me down, with the lush, creamy yolks pairing perfectly with those tangy onions and salty, crunchy chicharrones.
Monochrome [$18.00] | Ki No Bi Gin - Empirical Plum - Daiginjo Sake - Blanc Vermouth - Matsutake Essence
My imbibing session got off to a very promising start thanks to this clever riff on the martini. The bright, botanical, multifaceted nature of the gin was clearly displayed, but also seemingly softened by the plusher nature of the rice wine. The key for me was the incorporation of the plum-inspired spirit, which imparted a subtle nutty-sweetness that didn't necessarily draw attention to itself, but--perhaps in tandem with the actual sour plum in the glass--served as a cohesive force in the cocktail. That being said, I would've liked to have seen what a more aggressive application of mushroom would've resulted in.
Blue Fin Tostada [$18.00] | Burnt Black Sauce - Lemon - Garlic Oil - Cucumber - Radish
A sort of "inverted" tostada met the mark. Lean slices of tuna made sense with their savory, sweet, smoky, rather familiar-tasting condiment, all while cucumber lightened the mood. At the same time, the fried tortilla was crucial on account of its crunchy, homey, maíz-y qualities.
It G Ma [$17.00] | Oka Yuzu Vodka - Rum - White Kimchi - Asian Pear Cordial - Lilet Blanc - Aromatic Bitters
Ostensibly named after the Keith Ape track "잊지마," this next concoction was also a winner, largely because of how well the water kimchi was incorporated. The cabbage's fruity, funky flavors were proudly conveyed, flawlessly integrated with the drink's sweeter elements, with the whole mélange then overarched by countering astringent nuances. This just might be the best kimchi-centric cocktail I've ever had.
Okonomi Corn Dogs [$7.00] | Okonomiyaki Sauce - Kewpie Mayo - Bonito Flake - Serrano
Lee mentioned that the corndogs are the most popular item food-wise, and I can see why. Texturally, I appreciated the sausage's "snappy" casing and how that played with the relatively fluffy nature of the cornmeal layer. Taste-wise, I found tons of umami courtesy of katsuobushi, while the okonomi sauce boosted that sweet-n-savory factor even further. Nice touch of serrano-fueled heat, too.
Yari Mango [$18.00] | Tequila - Tomato Gin - Mango Cordial - Sudachi - Fermented Tomato
I was pretty smitten by this next cocktail. Interestingly, the drink's bouquet actually reminded me of strawberry Yan Yan--definitely a nostalgic childhood throwback. In the mouth, I found more of those candied notes, but intertwined with the "garden-y" tartness and savor of tomato. Simultaneously, you had the earthier, almost vegetal qualities of the tequila lurking in the background, coalescing seamlessly. This is apparently a staff favorite, and for good reason.
Wagyu Skirt [$15.00] | Yakiniku Sauce - Kizami Wasabi
The skirt steak fell a bit flat, as I found the beef lacking in both the juiciness and tenderness departments, especially since this was advertised as "wagyu." In terms of redeeming qualities, the savory-sweetness from the tare worked with the heavy char on the meat, while the herbs were certainly welcomed, and I didn't mind the sting of all that chopped wasabi, either.
Nutty by Nature [$18.00] | Japanese Whisky - Chestnut - Biscotti Liqueur - Seasonal Amaro - Egg Whites - Bitters
I like a punny cocktail name, so this next libation fit the bill nicely in that regard. Thankfully, it also fit the bill taste-wise, too. I was a fan of how unabashedly nutty the drink was, offering true-to-life chestnut-n-biscotti flavors, juxtaposed with fruit, heat, bittersweetness, and a plethora of dark-toned nuances, all rendered in a creamy package.
Crispy Rice [$14.00] | Spicy Tuna - Soy Garlic Butter - Eel Sauce - Chive
The ubiquitous dish of spicy tuna crispy rice is pretty much always unremarkable, and that was certainly the case tonight.
Truffle Fashioned [$29.00] | Yoichi - Truffle - Okinawan Rock Sugar - Housemade Bitters - Hand Carved Ice
I'm often a bit wary of truffle in my cocktails, but fortunately, what we have here was some of the best Tuber incorporation I've ever witnessed. The crux was really the back-and-forth between the musk of the fungus and the classically smoky, saline notes from the Japanese whisky, all while supporting forces of dark fruit and brown sugar completed the equation.
Wasabi Fries [$7.00] | Wasabi Dusted Fries - Wasabi Aioli
The French fries were on point, coming out like an improved, wasabi-dusted version of McDonald's', and I had no complaints about that aïoli, either.
Initial B [$19.00] | Bourbon - White Miso - Campari - Sweet Japanese Vermouth - Banana - Castella Cake
I'm not sure what this final cocktail had to do with Initial D, but it delivered nonetheless, owing to its somewhat beguiling characteristics that quite appealed to me. What struck me first were some almost beer-like notes, which then transition to a combination of oxidative, acrid, medicinal flavors, all set over an underpinning of sugary banana and savory shiromiso. Meanwhile, that slice of kasutera on top served as a dessert-y component, making this a fitting closer.
Dragon [$18.00] | Unagi Eel - Shrimp Tempura - Avocado - Eel Sauce - Sesame Seeds - Crispy Onion - Togarashi
I have a bit of a disdain for American-style makizushi, and I was reminded of why with this clumsy creation, overly-sauced to the detriment of the everything else in the roll.
We concluded with a complimentary pour of the Kanosuke Single Malt Japanese Whisky from Kagoshima, which features aging in ex-shochu casks. The nose here was of juicy apples commingled with elements of oak, honey, and a tinge of peatiness. Palate-wise, I found more of those orchard fruit notes, contrasted against drying oak, bitter spice, citrus, smoke, and a touch of a confectionary quality.
It was great to see Lee back in action tonight, and it's pretty evident that, despite his hiatus from the industry, he hasn't missed a beat. This evening's drinks demonstrated a considerable range to be sure, but also the sense of intent, creativity, and attention to detail I expected, all undergirded by a palpable respect for tradition. A must-try for all the cocktail aficionados out there.
1731 E 4th St, Long Beach, CA 90802
562-333-3333
www.tokyonoirbar.com
Wed 04/08/2026, 07:35p-10:55p
Back in the early/mid 2010s, I found myself spending more time around Buena Park, and eventually discovered Puzzle Bar in La Mirada. The place soon became my go-to cocktail bar, and the key to its appeal was the mixological prowess of head bartender-slash-owner Kevin Lee. Unfortunately for me, he left in 2018 to run the beverage program at The Wolves, which I was also a fan of. However, I lost track of Lee's whereabouts after his departure from the DTLA bar, but he recently popped up again at Tokyo Noir (東京ノワール), a Japanese-inspired watering hole in Long Beach's Retro Row, so naturally I had to pay him a visit.
About the Bartender: A Los Angeles-area native, Lee grew up in Cerritos and Fullerton, and supposedly began his hospitality career as a dishwasher. In 2012, he partnered with his brother and launched Puzzle Bar (퍼즐바) in a sleepy La Mirada strip mall, its name being a nod to the bar featured in How I Met Your Mother. Previously, the address had been home to Renaissance Cafe (르네상스) and Renaissance Butcher Shop (renamed 명가 정육점, or Myeongga Butcher Shop, during the Puzzle days), Kabuto, and Mario's Pizza and Spaghetti House if we want to go back even further. Lee began making a name for himself at Puzzle due to his level of dedication to the craft (e.g. hand-carved ice and homemade amari, bitters, vermouths, etc.)--never before seen in the area and which has still not been replicated to this day. Apparently though, that wasn't enough to sustain the business, and the bar shuttered on May 8th, 2018. The real estate at 14740 Beach Blvd was subsequently sold, and has seen a progression of new tenants: Haus Cafe, Bardot Bistro Cafe, Rio Picanha Boutique Steakhouse, Haus Pocha (포차), and most recently, Haus Lounge.
Lee would then team up with Al Almeida, Daniel Salin, and Isaac Mejia to launch The Wolves (and the omakase-inspired Le Néant in the back of the space) in Downtown LA, which bowed on September 13th, 2018. Although The Wolves was generally well-received, Lee decamped in October 2019 to work for Andrew Meiran, owner of Clifton's and The Edison. However, during the pandemic, he stepped away from the industry for three years before realizing that he really did miss bartending. Thus, he linked up with none other than Jesse Duron (Umi by Hamasaku, Phorage, Hamasaku, Miku, Gonpachi), as well as Ulises Piñeda-Alfaro (Umi by Hamasaku, Tikifish, Plan Check) and Joe Lin (who comes from the computer software world), and got to work on Tokyo Noir. The bar would grand-open on November 13th, 2024.
Tokyo Noir boasts a listening bar-inspired aesthetic, replete with a soundtrack of 1990s hip-hop played over tube-powered JBL L52 loudspeakers. It's situated in the back of El Barrio Cantina (open October '21) in North Alamitos Beach, in a building that was previously home to the longstanding Ashley's on Fourth (f.k.a. Ashley's Bar & Grill and Ashley's El Encanto), which traced its roots all the way back to 1938. El Barrio shares the same ownership team, and I'll also note that the concept started life as El Barrio Neighborhood Tacos, which launched in 2019 in Redondo Beach before moving to Palms (and closing in January last year). Pictured above is the view from my seat at the furthest-right position at the bar.
The cocktail list at Tokyo Noir is quite a sight to behold, with all of its thoughtful illustrations, and features drinks that really show off Lee's bartending chops. Meanwhile, if you're hungry, you'll also find a selection of izakaya-inspired fare. Click for larger versions.
Deviled Egg [$6.00] | Miso - Red Yuzukosho - Pickled Red Onion
Given my penchant for deviled eggs, I absolutely had to kick things off with an order. They didn't let me down, with the lush, creamy yolks pairing perfectly with those tangy onions and salty, crunchy chicharrones.
Monochrome [$18.00] | Ki No Bi Gin - Empirical Plum - Daiginjo Sake - Blanc Vermouth - Matsutake Essence
My imbibing session got off to a very promising start thanks to this clever riff on the martini. The bright, botanical, multifaceted nature of the gin was clearly displayed, but also seemingly softened by the plusher nature of the rice wine. The key for me was the incorporation of the plum-inspired spirit, which imparted a subtle nutty-sweetness that didn't necessarily draw attention to itself, but--perhaps in tandem with the actual sour plum in the glass--served as a cohesive force in the cocktail. That being said, I would've liked to have seen what a more aggressive application of mushroom would've resulted in.
Blue Fin Tostada [$18.00] | Burnt Black Sauce - Lemon - Garlic Oil - Cucumber - Radish
A sort of "inverted" tostada met the mark. Lean slices of tuna made sense with their savory, sweet, smoky, rather familiar-tasting condiment, all while cucumber lightened the mood. At the same time, the fried tortilla was crucial on account of its crunchy, homey, maíz-y qualities.
It G Ma [$17.00] | Oka Yuzu Vodka - Rum - White Kimchi - Asian Pear Cordial - Lilet Blanc - Aromatic Bitters
Ostensibly named after the Keith Ape track "잊지마," this next concoction was also a winner, largely because of how well the water kimchi was incorporated. The cabbage's fruity, funky flavors were proudly conveyed, flawlessly integrated with the drink's sweeter elements, with the whole mélange then overarched by countering astringent nuances. This just might be the best kimchi-centric cocktail I've ever had.
Okonomi Corn Dogs [$7.00] | Okonomiyaki Sauce - Kewpie Mayo - Bonito Flake - Serrano
Lee mentioned that the corndogs are the most popular item food-wise, and I can see why. Texturally, I appreciated the sausage's "snappy" casing and how that played with the relatively fluffy nature of the cornmeal layer. Taste-wise, I found tons of umami courtesy of katsuobushi, while the okonomi sauce boosted that sweet-n-savory factor even further. Nice touch of serrano-fueled heat, too.
Yari Mango [$18.00] | Tequila - Tomato Gin - Mango Cordial - Sudachi - Fermented Tomato
I was pretty smitten by this next cocktail. Interestingly, the drink's bouquet actually reminded me of strawberry Yan Yan--definitely a nostalgic childhood throwback. In the mouth, I found more of those candied notes, but intertwined with the "garden-y" tartness and savor of tomato. Simultaneously, you had the earthier, almost vegetal qualities of the tequila lurking in the background, coalescing seamlessly. This is apparently a staff favorite, and for good reason.
Wagyu Skirt [$15.00] | Yakiniku Sauce - Kizami Wasabi
The skirt steak fell a bit flat, as I found the beef lacking in both the juiciness and tenderness departments, especially since this was advertised as "wagyu." In terms of redeeming qualities, the savory-sweetness from the tare worked with the heavy char on the meat, while the herbs were certainly welcomed, and I didn't mind the sting of all that chopped wasabi, either.
Nutty by Nature [$18.00] | Japanese Whisky - Chestnut - Biscotti Liqueur - Seasonal Amaro - Egg Whites - Bitters
I like a punny cocktail name, so this next libation fit the bill nicely in that regard. Thankfully, it also fit the bill taste-wise, too. I was a fan of how unabashedly nutty the drink was, offering true-to-life chestnut-n-biscotti flavors, juxtaposed with fruit, heat, bittersweetness, and a plethora of dark-toned nuances, all rendered in a creamy package.
Crispy Rice [$14.00] | Spicy Tuna - Soy Garlic Butter - Eel Sauce - Chive
The ubiquitous dish of spicy tuna crispy rice is pretty much always unremarkable, and that was certainly the case tonight.
Truffle Fashioned [$29.00] | Yoichi - Truffle - Okinawan Rock Sugar - Housemade Bitters - Hand Carved Ice
I'm often a bit wary of truffle in my cocktails, but fortunately, what we have here was some of the best Tuber incorporation I've ever witnessed. The crux was really the back-and-forth between the musk of the fungus and the classically smoky, saline notes from the Japanese whisky, all while supporting forces of dark fruit and brown sugar completed the equation.
Wasabi Fries [$7.00] | Wasabi Dusted Fries - Wasabi Aioli
The French fries were on point, coming out like an improved, wasabi-dusted version of McDonald's', and I had no complaints about that aïoli, either.
Initial B [$19.00] | Bourbon - White Miso - Campari - Sweet Japanese Vermouth - Banana - Castella Cake
I'm not sure what this final cocktail had to do with Initial D, but it delivered nonetheless, owing to its somewhat beguiling characteristics that quite appealed to me. What struck me first were some almost beer-like notes, which then transition to a combination of oxidative, acrid, medicinal flavors, all set over an underpinning of sugary banana and savory shiromiso. Meanwhile, that slice of kasutera on top served as a dessert-y component, making this a fitting closer.
Dragon [$18.00] | Unagi Eel - Shrimp Tempura - Avocado - Eel Sauce - Sesame Seeds - Crispy Onion - Togarashi
I have a bit of a disdain for American-style makizushi, and I was reminded of why with this clumsy creation, overly-sauced to the detriment of the everything else in the roll.
We concluded with a complimentary pour of the Kanosuke Single Malt Japanese Whisky from Kagoshima, which features aging in ex-shochu casks. The nose here was of juicy apples commingled with elements of oak, honey, and a tinge of peatiness. Palate-wise, I found more of those orchard fruit notes, contrasted against drying oak, bitter spice, citrus, smoke, and a touch of a confectionary quality.
It was great to see Lee back in action tonight, and it's pretty evident that, despite his hiatus from the industry, he hasn't missed a beat. This evening's drinks demonstrated a considerable range to be sure, but also the sense of intent, creativity, and attention to detail I expected, all undergirded by a palpable respect for tradition. A must-try for all the cocktail aficionados out there.
posted by kevinEats at
7:35 PM
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