Firstborn (Los Angeles, CA)
First Born Restaurant
978 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213-537-0142
www.firstborn.la
Wed 11/19/2025, 07:25p-09:45p
If we're talking about 2025 debuts, Chinatown's Firstborn has definitely been one of the ones I've been the most excited about. The modern Chinese-American spot opened back at the start of spring, but I only made it out recently after my multiple attempts to visit earlier in the year were foiled. The restaurant is the brainchild of Anthony Wang, a Miami-born, Atlanta-raised, Boston-trained chef who is indeed the first person in his family to be birthed in the United States, hence this place's name. After making his way to LA, he cooked at ink, ink.well, and APL before landing at Eric Bost's Auburn as sous.
It was at Auburn where I first encountered Wang's cooking, when he created a Sichuan-inspired takeout menu during the early days of the pandemic. Following Auburn's shutter, he spent time at The Barish and Destroyer before conceptualizing Firstborn in 2022. He was subsequently introduced to Mandarin Plaza owners Martin and Scott Lee and decided to set up shop at their longstanding property (built by their father Jack Lee in 1972), while also teaming up with LA hospitality veteran Bill Chait. With the proper people in place, work on Firstborn began in earnest, and the restaurant would eventually grand-open on March 28th this year.
Firstborn takes over the long-vacant address once occupied by Andy Ricker's Pok Pok, which shuttered all the way back in 2017. The space has been reworked by a team comprising Wang, Carolyn Baylon of Baylon Studio, William Beauter of MAKE Architecture, and John Barlow of LightSpeed Design, and now sports a cozier, comfier aesthetic that ostensibly derives from both Eastern and Western traditions. Patio seating is also available (sometimes). Also, do note that the upstairs dining room isn't being utilized at the moment, and according to GM Lisa Witkowski (an ICC grad who's run the FOH at Perle, Petit Trois Le Valley, Rasselbock, and Montrésor here in LA), there are no plans to activate the second floor at this point.
Firstborn's menu is influenced by the Chef's Chinese background for sure, but apparently also draws inspiration from the ethos of French bistronomie, which I can see. To drink, the main draw here is the cocktail program from Kenzo Han (The Varnish, Steep LA under Huy Nang Pham), featuring creative, Asian-y twists on classics, while there's also a brief wine list that veers decidedly towards France. Click for larger versions.
Pear + White Tea [$23.00] | Bruichladdich "The Classic Laddie" Scotch, Clarified Kieffer Pear Cordial, Gold Guanyin, St George Pear Brandy
I do tend to gravitate towards tea-centric cocktails, so this certainly caught my attention. However, I would've liked the floral-fruitiness of the jīn guānyīn to have been more forcefully conveyed, as the tea tended to get obscured. Instead, the story here was all about the interplay between the Islay whisky and the drink's multipronged presentation of pear (which is indeed not a bad combination).
Salt + Pepper Squid à la Voltaggio [$19.00] | Jimmy Nardello peppers
The evening's first course was a winner, and one that was inspired by a dish Wang prepared during his time under Michael Voltaggio (which I've actually had before). I was pretty enamored with the calamari's simultaneously crispy, supple, and "snappy" textures, while familiar S+P flavors intertwined with the lingering oceany qualities of the squid. At the same time, peppers and onions offered a vegetal counterpoint, and that lime-boosted mayo on the bottom served as an integrating force.
Wagyu Beef Tongue [$22.00] | mala dressing, wild arugula, kohlrabi
I'm almost always a fan of tongue, and this particular preparation recalled the classic Sichuan cold dish fūqī fèipiàn. The offal ate tender and toothsome, and was beautifully complemented by a punchy málà dressing. The brightness and bitterness of the arugula and kohlrabi was crucial for balance, while more unexpected was the piquancy imparted by those mustard seeds.
Collins [$21.00] | Fig Leaf, Dudognon Selection Cognac, Cobrafire Eau de Vie de Raisin, Lemon, Soda
Here, what struck me first was that fig leaf-enhanced brandy, with its fruity complexity overarched by tart citrus. That being said, the star of the show was the eau de vie, which showcased a delightful raisin-y depth that really undergirded the cocktail. Take note of that unusually-faceted ice cube as well, which is carved in-house.
Mapo Tofu [$31.00] | roast sweetbreads
The mápó dòufu was another highlight. I liked how the unabashedly savory, salty, spicy depth of the dòubànjiàng was presented, melding effortlessly with both the traditional minced meat and the earthier, more contemplative flavors of the sweetbread. With all this going on, the tofu helped tone things down, and I appreciated the additional zip proffered by the green onion. Potent, yet elegant.
Duck Fat Rice [$9.00] | scallions
Serving as the consummate accompaniment to the mapo tofu above was a bowl of slick, duck fat-enriched rice, which was spot-on texturally and displayed just enough of that anatine goodness. Nice zestiness from those scallions, too.
Sour [$18.00] | Osmanthus, Planteray 3 Star Rum, Fermented Rice, Lemon, Egg White
My next cocktail was a pretty great rendition of your classic sour, with a superb back-and-forth between that eggy, astringent foam and the drink's plethora of sweet, floral notes.
Egg Custard [$22.00] | tomato, nori, sunflower, chili
What appeared to be a mash-up of Chinese steamed eggs and chawanmushi ended up being my favorite dish of the night (and likely one the best things I've eaten all year). The custard itself had the silkiness I was looking for, and matched up flawlessly with the bountiful amounts of umami provided by the seaweed. Just as critical was the tanginess from the tomatoes (think fānqié chǎo dàn) and all those nutty bits, while a spicy underpinning from the chile helped tie it all together into one super cohesive package.
Char Siu Duck Sausage [$28.00] | duck XO sauce, grilled endive, green apple
I'm a sucker for sausage, so this was obviously a must-order. The forcemeat didn't quite scream chāsīu to me, but was still very tasty, demonstrating a bevy of heady, duck-y flavors married with plenty of sweet-n-spicy nuances that made me think of the expected five-spice powder. The bitterness of endive certainly worked for contrast, and I found the sugariness of that apple sauce a tad jarring, but effective.
Paloma [$20.00] | Red Szechuan Peppercorn, Agua Del Sol Espadin Mezcal, Lillet Blanc, Maraschino, Grapefruit Zest & Juice, Soda
Han's version of the paloma was a smart take on the classic cocktail, and far more interesting than most. The key really was the interaction between Sichuan pepper, smoke, and citrus, all moderated by maraschino.
Steamed Clams [$24.00] | black bean sauce, fried Bub & Grandma's sourdough
Stir-fried clams with black bean sauce was a restaurant favorite of mine growing up, and what we had here captured the essence of that dish succinctly, but with seemingly increased sophistication. The mouthfeel of the clams was just right, and naturally, the aromatics of the basil were much appreciated. My quibble: the cubes of bread present ended up overly-saturated, so perhaps that's something to consider.
"BBQ" Cabbage [$22.00] | leeks vinaigrette
Given my penchant for cabbage, this was another must-try. The genius here was combining the bitter, smoky cabbage with the sweeter, richer nature of the leeks, with the whole thing then supercharged by that aggressively Allium-y vinaigrette.
Rob Roy [$25.00] | Dry Aged Lamb Fat, Ardbeg "Wee Beastie" Scotch, Lustau Peninsula Sherry, Amaro Averna, Cherry
A reworked Rob Roy wasn't as overtly ovine as I'd expected, but was nonetheless a tasty rendition of the classic cocktail. The potent, peat-y nature of Islay whisky was proudly displayed here, smartly set against the dry-nuttiness of palo cortado and the requisite bittersweet components.
Pan Roasted Local Fish [$48.00] | pickled mustard leaves, sansho pepper
Vermilion rockfish arrived with a firm, flaky, springy texture that I reveled in. Taste-wise, I found the fish buttery and subtly sweet, with a real heft to it, so the sourness of what seemed to be suān cài helped even things out.
Aged Liberty Duck Breast [$68.00] | parsnip, persimmon, chestnut
Duck came out rarer than I typically prefer, but was spot-on in terms of taste, offering loads of duck-y depth, and boasted some crisp, super flavorful skin to boot. The bird was accompanied by a gaggle of autumnal flavors (and a touch of truffle), which were apropos for this time of the year, and I detected this sweet-spiciness that actually made me think of Cinnamon Toast Crunch!
Kingston Negroni [$18.00] | Ming River Baijiu, Smith & Cross Rum, Campari, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Green Tangerine Pu-Erh, Lime
My final cocktail combined the signature earthiness of báijiǔ with the less funky, but still potent qualities of overproof rum, all evened out by the drink's fruity, floral elements and a smidge of tea-fueled aromatics courtesy of that pǔ'ěr.
Here we see Firstborn's selection of desserts, the responsibility of Pastry Chef Jaime Craten, who comes to us from the world of Jordan Kahn. We also have the restaurant's tea and after-dinner drink offerings. Click for a larger version.
Vanilla Sponge [$17.00] | red bean, oolong, strawberry
A lone dessert served as a delicious closer. What impressed me the most was how clearly the roastiness of the wūlóng was presented, matched up with both red bean and strawberry, with everything offset by a base of airy vanilla sponge cake. Absolutely lovely crunch from that brown butter tuile, too.
Over much of this past year, I've been itching to check out Firstborn, and tonight's meal certainly scratched said itch. Wang's cooking hits close to home for me, connoting nostalgia no doubt, but also novelty, and suggests an exploration of his own identity, rendered in edible form. The food brings together pan-Chinese culinary tradition, French technique, and the Chef's upbringing in America, with the end result being a sort of cuisine that's unequivocally personal, evocative even. Indeed, I was excited about what I saw this evening, and I'm even more excited to see where Wang takes things in the coming years.
978 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213-537-0142
www.firstborn.la
Wed 11/19/2025, 07:25p-09:45p
If we're talking about 2025 debuts, Chinatown's Firstborn has definitely been one of the ones I've been the most excited about. The modern Chinese-American spot opened back at the start of spring, but I only made it out recently after my multiple attempts to visit earlier in the year were foiled. The restaurant is the brainchild of Anthony Wang, a Miami-born, Atlanta-raised, Boston-trained chef who is indeed the first person in his family to be birthed in the United States, hence this place's name. After making his way to LA, he cooked at ink, ink.well, and APL before landing at Eric Bost's Auburn as sous.
It was at Auburn where I first encountered Wang's cooking, when he created a Sichuan-inspired takeout menu during the early days of the pandemic. Following Auburn's shutter, he spent time at The Barish and Destroyer before conceptualizing Firstborn in 2022. He was subsequently introduced to Mandarin Plaza owners Martin and Scott Lee and decided to set up shop at their longstanding property (built by their father Jack Lee in 1972), while also teaming up with LA hospitality veteran Bill Chait. With the proper people in place, work on Firstborn began in earnest, and the restaurant would eventually grand-open on March 28th this year.
Firstborn takes over the long-vacant address once occupied by Andy Ricker's Pok Pok, which shuttered all the way back in 2017. The space has been reworked by a team comprising Wang, Carolyn Baylon of Baylon Studio, William Beauter of MAKE Architecture, and John Barlow of LightSpeed Design, and now sports a cozier, comfier aesthetic that ostensibly derives from both Eastern and Western traditions. Patio seating is also available (sometimes). Also, do note that the upstairs dining room isn't being utilized at the moment, and according to GM Lisa Witkowski (an ICC grad who's run the FOH at Perle, Petit Trois Le Valley, Rasselbock, and Montrésor here in LA), there are no plans to activate the second floor at this point.
Firstborn's menu is influenced by the Chef's Chinese background for sure, but apparently also draws inspiration from the ethos of French bistronomie, which I can see. To drink, the main draw here is the cocktail program from Kenzo Han (The Varnish, Steep LA under Huy Nang Pham), featuring creative, Asian-y twists on classics, while there's also a brief wine list that veers decidedly towards France. Click for larger versions.
Pear + White Tea [$23.00] | Bruichladdich "The Classic Laddie" Scotch, Clarified Kieffer Pear Cordial, Gold Guanyin, St George Pear Brandy
I do tend to gravitate towards tea-centric cocktails, so this certainly caught my attention. However, I would've liked the floral-fruitiness of the jīn guānyīn to have been more forcefully conveyed, as the tea tended to get obscured. Instead, the story here was all about the interplay between the Islay whisky and the drink's multipronged presentation of pear (which is indeed not a bad combination).
Salt + Pepper Squid à la Voltaggio [$19.00] | Jimmy Nardello peppers
The evening's first course was a winner, and one that was inspired by a dish Wang prepared during his time under Michael Voltaggio (which I've actually had before). I was pretty enamored with the calamari's simultaneously crispy, supple, and "snappy" textures, while familiar S+P flavors intertwined with the lingering oceany qualities of the squid. At the same time, peppers and onions offered a vegetal counterpoint, and that lime-boosted mayo on the bottom served as an integrating force.
Wagyu Beef Tongue [$22.00] | mala dressing, wild arugula, kohlrabi
I'm almost always a fan of tongue, and this particular preparation recalled the classic Sichuan cold dish fūqī fèipiàn. The offal ate tender and toothsome, and was beautifully complemented by a punchy málà dressing. The brightness and bitterness of the arugula and kohlrabi was crucial for balance, while more unexpected was the piquancy imparted by those mustard seeds.
Collins [$21.00] | Fig Leaf, Dudognon Selection Cognac, Cobrafire Eau de Vie de Raisin, Lemon, Soda
Here, what struck me first was that fig leaf-enhanced brandy, with its fruity complexity overarched by tart citrus. That being said, the star of the show was the eau de vie, which showcased a delightful raisin-y depth that really undergirded the cocktail. Take note of that unusually-faceted ice cube as well, which is carved in-house.
Mapo Tofu [$31.00] | roast sweetbreads
The mápó dòufu was another highlight. I liked how the unabashedly savory, salty, spicy depth of the dòubànjiàng was presented, melding effortlessly with both the traditional minced meat and the earthier, more contemplative flavors of the sweetbread. With all this going on, the tofu helped tone things down, and I appreciated the additional zip proffered by the green onion. Potent, yet elegant.
Duck Fat Rice [$9.00] | scallions
Serving as the consummate accompaniment to the mapo tofu above was a bowl of slick, duck fat-enriched rice, which was spot-on texturally and displayed just enough of that anatine goodness. Nice zestiness from those scallions, too.
Sour [$18.00] | Osmanthus, Planteray 3 Star Rum, Fermented Rice, Lemon, Egg White
My next cocktail was a pretty great rendition of your classic sour, with a superb back-and-forth between that eggy, astringent foam and the drink's plethora of sweet, floral notes.
Egg Custard [$22.00] | tomato, nori, sunflower, chili
What appeared to be a mash-up of Chinese steamed eggs and chawanmushi ended up being my favorite dish of the night (and likely one the best things I've eaten all year). The custard itself had the silkiness I was looking for, and matched up flawlessly with the bountiful amounts of umami provided by the seaweed. Just as critical was the tanginess from the tomatoes (think fānqié chǎo dàn) and all those nutty bits, while a spicy underpinning from the chile helped tie it all together into one super cohesive package.
Char Siu Duck Sausage [$28.00] | duck XO sauce, grilled endive, green apple
I'm a sucker for sausage, so this was obviously a must-order. The forcemeat didn't quite scream chāsīu to me, but was still very tasty, demonstrating a bevy of heady, duck-y flavors married with plenty of sweet-n-spicy nuances that made me think of the expected five-spice powder. The bitterness of endive certainly worked for contrast, and I found the sugariness of that apple sauce a tad jarring, but effective.
Paloma [$20.00] | Red Szechuan Peppercorn, Agua Del Sol Espadin Mezcal, Lillet Blanc, Maraschino, Grapefruit Zest & Juice, Soda
Han's version of the paloma was a smart take on the classic cocktail, and far more interesting than most. The key really was the interaction between Sichuan pepper, smoke, and citrus, all moderated by maraschino.
Steamed Clams [$24.00] | black bean sauce, fried Bub & Grandma's sourdough
Stir-fried clams with black bean sauce was a restaurant favorite of mine growing up, and what we had here captured the essence of that dish succinctly, but with seemingly increased sophistication. The mouthfeel of the clams was just right, and naturally, the aromatics of the basil were much appreciated. My quibble: the cubes of bread present ended up overly-saturated, so perhaps that's something to consider.
"BBQ" Cabbage [$22.00] | leeks vinaigrette
Given my penchant for cabbage, this was another must-try. The genius here was combining the bitter, smoky cabbage with the sweeter, richer nature of the leeks, with the whole thing then supercharged by that aggressively Allium-y vinaigrette.
Rob Roy [$25.00] | Dry Aged Lamb Fat, Ardbeg "Wee Beastie" Scotch, Lustau Peninsula Sherry, Amaro Averna, Cherry
A reworked Rob Roy wasn't as overtly ovine as I'd expected, but was nonetheless a tasty rendition of the classic cocktail. The potent, peat-y nature of Islay whisky was proudly displayed here, smartly set against the dry-nuttiness of palo cortado and the requisite bittersweet components.
Pan Roasted Local Fish [$48.00] | pickled mustard leaves, sansho pepper
Vermilion rockfish arrived with a firm, flaky, springy texture that I reveled in. Taste-wise, I found the fish buttery and subtly sweet, with a real heft to it, so the sourness of what seemed to be suān cài helped even things out.
Aged Liberty Duck Breast [$68.00] | parsnip, persimmon, chestnut
Duck came out rarer than I typically prefer, but was spot-on in terms of taste, offering loads of duck-y depth, and boasted some crisp, super flavorful skin to boot. The bird was accompanied by a gaggle of autumnal flavors (and a touch of truffle), which were apropos for this time of the year, and I detected this sweet-spiciness that actually made me think of Cinnamon Toast Crunch!
Kingston Negroni [$18.00] | Ming River Baijiu, Smith & Cross Rum, Campari, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Green Tangerine Pu-Erh, Lime
My final cocktail combined the signature earthiness of báijiǔ with the less funky, but still potent qualities of overproof rum, all evened out by the drink's fruity, floral elements and a smidge of tea-fueled aromatics courtesy of that pǔ'ěr.
Here we see Firstborn's selection of desserts, the responsibility of Pastry Chef Jaime Craten, who comes to us from the world of Jordan Kahn. We also have the restaurant's tea and after-dinner drink offerings. Click for a larger version.
Vanilla Sponge [$17.00] | red bean, oolong, strawberry
A lone dessert served as a delicious closer. What impressed me the most was how clearly the roastiness of the wūlóng was presented, matched up with both red bean and strawberry, with everything offset by a base of airy vanilla sponge cake. Absolutely lovely crunch from that brown butter tuile, too.
Over much of this past year, I've been itching to check out Firstborn, and tonight's meal certainly scratched said itch. Wang's cooking hits close to home for me, connoting nostalgia no doubt, but also novelty, and suggests an exploration of his own identity, rendered in edible form. The food brings together pan-Chinese culinary tradition, French technique, and the Chef's upbringing in America, with the end result being a sort of cuisine that's unequivocally personal, evocative even. Indeed, I was excited about what I saw this evening, and I'm even more excited to see where Wang takes things in the coming years.
posted by kevinEats at
7:25 PM
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