Hayato (Los Angeles, CA) [5]
Hayato Restaurant
1320 E 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213-395-0607
www.instagram.com/hayatorestaurant/
Wed 04/22/2026, 06:30p-11:10p
"This is real-deal washoku cooking that you don't see all that often, so I'm hoping Angelenos will respond positively to it."
That's what I wrote as part of my first report on Hayato (日本料理 隼人, Nihonryōri Hayato) from back in 2018, not long after the place opened. Eight years later, I think it's safe to say that Angelenos have responded very positively to Chef Brandon Hayato Go's kappo ryori-inspired cooking, as Hayato has become the most difficult reservation in LA, its allocation of seats for an entire month selling out within seconds of release.
The situation has not been made any easier by the accolades that the spot has continued to rack up. Shortly after my last meal here in 2022, Hayato took the top position on the LA Times' "101 Best Restaurants" list. This was followed by a #3 placement in 2023, #2 in 2024, and #5 on the most recent ranking from December. Go-san was also a 2023 James Beard "Best Chef: California" nominee, and the restaurant has maintained its Michelin two-star rating, held since September 2021.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, I've largely given up on trying to secure reservations at this point, viewing it as a bit of a fruitless undertaking, and indeed, it's been three-and-a-half years since I've dined here. However, I was recently fortunate enough to snag a solo seat, and was thus excited to revisit Chef Brandon and his team in Downtown.
As it always has, Hayato resides inside Suite #126, Building M2 at the Row DTLA mixed-use development, on the Fashion District's border with both Skid Row and the Arts District. Concealed behind kōshi lattice work, the interior hasn't changed much since the place opened, except for the construction of a four-person tatami dining area near the entrance, which, as far as I know, has never been used regularly (as the Chef wants to touch all the food that's served). Pictured above is the view from my seat at the seven-person counter, third position from the right. A fun fact: the plan was originally to have eight seats, but that ended up not being possible with the chairs chosen.
Here we see Hayato's menu of kaiseki-ish cooking, served omakase-style across 17 courses. It's beautifully handwritten by okami-san "KK" Kaori Shiroma, who handles front-of-the-house duties and has been part of the team for a couple years now (after coming over from Sushi Takeda). As a thoughtful touch, the menu lists the rest of the team as well: Tsuyoshi Takayama, Rachel Bang, Konosuke Sugiura, and Christopher Karaiscos. Pricing is currently $450 per person, plus 18% service, with a $100 deposit. Corkage is $100 per 750mL bottle, with sake not permitted. Click for a larger version.
Hayato's place setting remains much the same as it's always been, replete with a chilled oshibori. Do also note the overturned sakazuki, which was soon filled with a welcome pour of Juyondai Origarami, a newly-released sake teeming with fresh, lively notes of tropical fruit that certainly perked up the palate.
1: Sakizuke: Hamaguri Clams, Fava Beans
Fittingly, our meal commenced with a course highlighting hard clams (served in an appropriately-themed plate no less), one of the most well-known springtime delicacies in Japan. Hamaguri is particularly suited for incorporation into dashi, so tonight, half was combined with sake in order to make the stock, while the remainder was lightly poached. The clams showed off a springy, spongey consistency, with a bevy of saline, umami-fueled flavors evened out nicely by the crunch and bitterness of soramame, another ingredient evocative of the spring season.
2: Hokkaido Hairy Crab
Kegani was steamed, then left in the shell for two days in order to let it develop and improve. This resulted in a beautifully-textured preparation of the crab, one loaded with the pure, super sweet, unmitigated essence of the crustacean, augmented even further by the creamy, oceany funk of kanimiso.
In terms of beverages, I had actually brought along an aged Chevalier-Montrachet that I'd planned to BYOB, but when I saw such a well-priced bottle of the 2023 Aramasa "Invisible Pink Unicorn" [$595] (新政 見えざるピンクのユ二コ一ソ) on the sake list, I had to opt for that instead. Part of the Akita Prefecture-based brewery's Astral Plateau series, the limited-production (bottle № 1188 of 1460) offering was crafted with 100% Kairyō Shinkō rice polished to a seimai-buai of 45%. Production utilized the kimoto method for producing starter mash, as well as the kijōshu process wherein sake is used in place of water during brewing. Fermentation took place in kioke (large cedar tanks), and the resulting nihonshu was bottled in May 2024. I had the pleasure of trying the Unicorn in both a traditional o-choko (or is it big enough to qualify as a guinomi?) and a wine glass, and there was quite a noticeable difference between the two:
3: Charcoal Grilled Mehikari
Next came a rather uncommon sight around these parts: a deep water treat also known as "greeneye," deboned and grilled. I loved the fish's lush, fatty, juicy texture, and how its smokiness was both omnipresent but never overwhelming. Ever better with a few drops of lemon.
4: Kobashira and Spring Vegetable Kimi-Su Ae
Aemono responsibilities were handled by a salad of shungiku (chrysanthemum greens), crunchy udo (another springtime signifier), snap peas, and raw kobashira, all dressed in a sauce incorporating egg yolk, vinegar, dashi, and yuzu. The dish possessed a brightness and bitterness that really spoke to the season, set against the sweet-salinity of aoyagi adductors, with the kimizu's piquancy really working to tie everything together.
5: Sakura Ebi Tempura
Tonight's agemono featured the Chef's favorite type of tempura for the spring: cherry blossom shrimp, which have roughly the same season as actual cherry blossoms. I can see why this is Go-san's favorite! Texturally, the tempura was light, airy, shattery, but still offered a delightful softness and chew, while flavors were unabashedly savory and saline, yet heightened even further by a pinch of salt.
6: Seared Sawara with Tosa-Zu Jelly
Spring king mackerel (haru-sawara) was sourced from the Hiroshima region and dispatched using the ikejime process. The resulting fish was great texturally--supple but with just enough bite--while its smoky, subtly saline tastes worked hand-in-hand with the tangy, zesty qualities of tosazu jelly, ginger juice, and shiso blossoms.
7: Shinogi: Kasugodai Bo-Zushi
A mid-meal rice course taken from the traditional kaiseki cadence brought Kyoto-style bozushi, a nod to the Chef's decade of sushi training. The neta of choice was baby sea bream, which is best this time of year, prepared using the yubiki method, in which boiling water is poured on the skin in order to tenderize it. This made for a supple, sweet fish set over a portion of soft, semi-sticky rice that really opened up thanks to contrasting accoutrements of lemon, salt, shiso, and wasabi.
8: Owan: Shiro Amadai
Chef Go considers the owan course the most important at Hayato, largely due to the effort involved in making the dashi utilized. The result was a suimono demonstrating both lightness and profundity, livened up by a touch of yuzu zest. At the same time, white tilefish was grilled, then finished by steaming in broth, making for a wonderfully tender, savory, salty fish with just the right amount of smokiness.
9: Otsukuri: Japanese Sea Bream, Aori Ika
Two types of sashimi were presented. I began with the bigfin reef squid, sliced on both sides in order to emphasize its subtle sweetness and pleasingly soft mouthfeel. There was also madai, at its peak during spring, with its satisfying chew and gentle-yet-concentrated salinity. Both the squid and snapper were well-accented by dashes of wasabi and salt, which the Chef actually prefers in place of soy sauce.
10: Steamed Abalone
Ensenadense wild abalone was prepared by steaming, with the resulting liquid runoff collected and reincorporated, while the accompanying sauce was made from the gastropod's liver, tinted green by the seaweed it feasts on. The awabi showcased a gratifying texture and a refined-but-robust saline-savoriness, making it both delicious on its own or with a dip into that grassy, earthy kimo. And yes, I requested some rice to mop up the sauce with.
Sake is a classic pairing with the course above, so I was given a pour of the Isojiman "Omachi 53" Tokubetsu Junmai, Shizuoka. Aromas here were bright and mineral-driven, with a backing of sweet orchard fruit and cooked rice. Taking a sip, I found a fairly thick mouthfeel, with flavors that highlighted more of that aforementioned fruit, along with a tangy acidity and touches of ricey umami.
11: Charcoal Grilled Kinki, Roasted Onion
Channel rockfish from Hokkaido is the Chef's favorite for grilling, and I can see why. I too was smitten by the thornyhead's fatty, almost gelatinous texture and balance of smoky and sweet flavors. The fish was delectable on its own of course, but I was also a big fan of that wonderfully savory, caramelized onion on the side, reportedly cooked 90 minutes in embers with dark soy.
12: Panko Crusted Bamboo Shoots
Takenoko is an important spring time vegetable, and tonight's (from Ishikawa Prefecture) was boiled with rice bran, cooked in bonito dashi, then panko-fried. The bamboo was a joy texturally, its inherent crunch playing off its airy breadcrumb coating perfectly. At the same time, the shoots' bittersweetness was proudly conveyed, but also perfectly accented by a dusting of salt.
13: Local Spot Prawns, Tokyo Turnip
We're early in the season for spot prawns, and the Chef prefers a cooked preparation for these smaller examples. The prawns were placed in boiling water to loosen their shells, then iced, skewered, and finished over charcoal, with shells and scraps used to construct a dashi. This made for an uncommonly sweet presentation of shrimp, further amped up by the headiness of that broth, all while a soft, cozy, bitter Japanese turnip and zingy salt-pickled mitsuba helped balance things out.
14: Nabe: Scallop Shinjo, Bamboo Shoots, Wakame
Our nabemono course comprised crisp cuts of bamboo paired with a traditional springtime accompaniment of seaweed, along with a sweetly-saline cake made of Hokkaido scallops that were ground, whipped to an airy consistency, steamed, and finally fried. All three components were then set in a homey broth and, crucially, tied together by the unmistakable pungency of kinome (sansho pepper buds that are another indicator of spring).
15: Karasumi Gohan
The Chef has been serving salted mullet roe sliced and grilled for the past eight years, but only recently opted to present it with white rice, shaved on top with a drizzle of soy sauce-cured egg yolk. It was indeed a winning combination, the intense brininess of the cured roe functioning as a very fitting foil to that warm, just-sticky-enough rice.
It turns out that Go-san's favorite thing to eat with sake is karasumi, hence this complimentary pour of Kamonishiki Funabagumi Junmai Daiginjo, a fresh, fruity tipple that paired swimmingly with the heavier nuances of the dish above.
16: Nodoguro Rice Pot with Shell Peas
As always, a dinner at Hayato ends with a kamameshi course, and tonight's was a bit of a stunner, combining mouthwateringly rich, fatty cuts of akamutsu with the sheer brightness of peas and the pungency of ginger, all layered over a spot-on base of okoge-laced rice. I ate five bowls, and could've done more, but didn't want to hold up everyone else from moving on to dessert. Also included in this course was a much-appreciated variety of kōnomono (cucumber, myoga, turnip, chrysanthemum flower), as well as a small bowl of extra-seaweed-y miso soup.
At this point, the party sitting to my left offered a pour of their Jacques Selosse "Initial" that they ordered off the wine list, and obviously I couldn't refuse. The Champagne's nose was more in the oxidative realm, boasting further yeasty and apple juice elements. The sparkler was even more pleasing on the tongue, with loads of brioche, nuts, plum, and sweet spices, again all rendered in an oxidative manner.
Dessert kicked off with a slice of Crown Melon, a type of muskmelon grown in temperature/humidity-controlled greenhouses in Shizuoka, reportedly using the "one tree, one fruit" method. Served nearly ice-cold as per the Chef's preference, it tasted of super concentrated, almost candied melon juice, while its texture was nearly creamy in consistency. I find it hard to imagine a better version of the fruit.
Three types of tea were paired with dessert, starting with the hojicha, a roasted green tea that was actually gentler in terms of toastiness and nuttiness than most I've had.
17: Harry's Berries with Kinako Cream
Extra sweet, extra juicy strawberries were matched with a marvelously nutty whipped cream infused with roasted soybean flour. I had three servings.
Next to enjoy was a cup of hot, vegetal, astringent sencha from Kyoto. Do note that this green tea was apparently used to make the hojicha above, as Kaori-san roasts the leaves daily before service.
Wagashi duties were taken care of by a floral, sandy-textured sakura sugar candy.
Last up was a frothy serving of matcha. Its generally grassy, savory, bittersweet flavor profile made for a suitable close to the meal, and I had two cups.
Previously, I'd only dined at Hayato during autumn and winter, so it was a pleasant change of pace to be able to visit during the springtime. Just as expected, the meal was a precise, thoughtful, deliberate celebration of the season--a deeply personal, intimate expression of Chef Go's cooking that speaks to the heart and soul of washoku. It's clear why this is the toughest table in town.
1320 E 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213-395-0607
www.instagram.com/hayatorestaurant/
Wed 04/22/2026, 06:30p-11:10p
"This is real-deal washoku cooking that you don't see all that often, so I'm hoping Angelenos will respond positively to it."
That's what I wrote as part of my first report on Hayato (日本料理 隼人, Nihonryōri Hayato) from back in 2018, not long after the place opened. Eight years later, I think it's safe to say that Angelenos have responded very positively to Chef Brandon Hayato Go's kappo ryori-inspired cooking, as Hayato has become the most difficult reservation in LA, its allocation of seats for an entire month selling out within seconds of release.
The situation has not been made any easier by the accolades that the spot has continued to rack up. Shortly after my last meal here in 2022, Hayato took the top position on the LA Times' "101 Best Restaurants" list. This was followed by a #3 placement in 2023, #2 in 2024, and #5 on the most recent ranking from December. Go-san was also a 2023 James Beard "Best Chef: California" nominee, and the restaurant has maintained its Michelin two-star rating, held since September 2021.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, I've largely given up on trying to secure reservations at this point, viewing it as a bit of a fruitless undertaking, and indeed, it's been three-and-a-half years since I've dined here. However, I was recently fortunate enough to snag a solo seat, and was thus excited to revisit Chef Brandon and his team in Downtown.
As it always has, Hayato resides inside Suite #126, Building M2 at the Row DTLA mixed-use development, on the Fashion District's border with both Skid Row and the Arts District. Concealed behind kōshi lattice work, the interior hasn't changed much since the place opened, except for the construction of a four-person tatami dining area near the entrance, which, as far as I know, has never been used regularly (as the Chef wants to touch all the food that's served). Pictured above is the view from my seat at the seven-person counter, third position from the right. A fun fact: the plan was originally to have eight seats, but that ended up not being possible with the chairs chosen.
Here we see Hayato's menu of kaiseki-ish cooking, served omakase-style across 17 courses. It's beautifully handwritten by okami-san "KK" Kaori Shiroma, who handles front-of-the-house duties and has been part of the team for a couple years now (after coming over from Sushi Takeda). As a thoughtful touch, the menu lists the rest of the team as well: Tsuyoshi Takayama, Rachel Bang, Konosuke Sugiura, and Christopher Karaiscos. Pricing is currently $450 per person, plus 18% service, with a $100 deposit. Corkage is $100 per 750mL bottle, with sake not permitted. Click for a larger version.
Hayato's place setting remains much the same as it's always been, replete with a chilled oshibori. Do also note the overturned sakazuki, which was soon filled with a welcome pour of Juyondai Origarami, a newly-released sake teeming with fresh, lively notes of tropical fruit that certainly perked up the palate.
1: Sakizuke: Hamaguri Clams, Fava Beans
Fittingly, our meal commenced with a course highlighting hard clams (served in an appropriately-themed plate no less), one of the most well-known springtime delicacies in Japan. Hamaguri is particularly suited for incorporation into dashi, so tonight, half was combined with sake in order to make the stock, while the remainder was lightly poached. The clams showed off a springy, spongey consistency, with a bevy of saline, umami-fueled flavors evened out nicely by the crunch and bitterness of soramame, another ingredient evocative of the spring season.
2: Hokkaido Hairy Crab
Kegani was steamed, then left in the shell for two days in order to let it develop and improve. This resulted in a beautifully-textured preparation of the crab, one loaded with the pure, super sweet, unmitigated essence of the crustacean, augmented even further by the creamy, oceany funk of kanimiso.
In terms of beverages, I had actually brought along an aged Chevalier-Montrachet that I'd planned to BYOB, but when I saw such a well-priced bottle of the 2023 Aramasa "Invisible Pink Unicorn" [$595] (新政 見えざるピンクのユ二コ一ソ) on the sake list, I had to opt for that instead. Part of the Akita Prefecture-based brewery's Astral Plateau series, the limited-production (bottle № 1188 of 1460) offering was crafted with 100% Kairyō Shinkō rice polished to a seimai-buai of 45%. Production utilized the kimoto method for producing starter mash, as well as the kijōshu process wherein sake is used in place of water during brewing. Fermentation took place in kioke (large cedar tanks), and the resulting nihonshu was bottled in May 2024. I had the pleasure of trying the Unicorn in both a traditional o-choko (or is it big enough to qualify as a guinomi?) and a wine glass, and there was quite a noticeable difference between the two:
- Initial Impressions, Ochoko: Somewhat muted nose with an agreeable ricey sweetness. The palate was undoubtedly vivacious, with a very slight effervescence and a permeating zippiness that enlivened the entire drinking experience. Flavors were bright and refreshing, showcasing loads of tropical fruit with an unpinning of rice, while the finish was super-lengthy, and displayed a luxurious, long-lingering sweetness.
- Initial Impressions, Glass: Wow, what a difference a glass makes! Aromas here really highlighted the sake's minerality, but commingled with a fantastic pineapple character that actually recalled fènglísū. In the mouth, tastes were even more intense, even more concentrated, even smoother, veering almost candied on the back end.
- After 30 Minutes, Ochoko: I found the bouquet still relatively restrained, but there was a stronger umami presence that was quite inviting. On the tongue, the sake became even more viscous and velvety, with flavors remaining largely unchanged.
- After 30 Minutes, Glass: The nose somehow began demonstrating this almost popcorn-esque nuttiness that I was not expecting, but did not mind at all. Palate-wise, think thick and silken, with further sweet, tropical nuances countered by a great acidity.
- After 90 Minutes, Glass: By this point, I was thoroughly convinced that the wine glass was the superior imbibing vessel and was using it exclusively. An hour-and-a-half in, the Unicorn's aromas went in a cooler, softer, more saline direction, while flavors were both juicier, yet joined by a palpable underpinning of heat.
3: Charcoal Grilled Mehikari
Next came a rather uncommon sight around these parts: a deep water treat also known as "greeneye," deboned and grilled. I loved the fish's lush, fatty, juicy texture, and how its smokiness was both omnipresent but never overwhelming. Ever better with a few drops of lemon.
4: Kobashira and Spring Vegetable Kimi-Su Ae
Aemono responsibilities were handled by a salad of shungiku (chrysanthemum greens), crunchy udo (another springtime signifier), snap peas, and raw kobashira, all dressed in a sauce incorporating egg yolk, vinegar, dashi, and yuzu. The dish possessed a brightness and bitterness that really spoke to the season, set against the sweet-salinity of aoyagi adductors, with the kimizu's piquancy really working to tie everything together.
5: Sakura Ebi Tempura
Tonight's agemono featured the Chef's favorite type of tempura for the spring: cherry blossom shrimp, which have roughly the same season as actual cherry blossoms. I can see why this is Go-san's favorite! Texturally, the tempura was light, airy, shattery, but still offered a delightful softness and chew, while flavors were unabashedly savory and saline, yet heightened even further by a pinch of salt.
6: Seared Sawara with Tosa-Zu Jelly
Spring king mackerel (haru-sawara) was sourced from the Hiroshima region and dispatched using the ikejime process. The resulting fish was great texturally--supple but with just enough bite--while its smoky, subtly saline tastes worked hand-in-hand with the tangy, zesty qualities of tosazu jelly, ginger juice, and shiso blossoms.
7: Shinogi: Kasugodai Bo-Zushi
A mid-meal rice course taken from the traditional kaiseki cadence brought Kyoto-style bozushi, a nod to the Chef's decade of sushi training. The neta of choice was baby sea bream, which is best this time of year, prepared using the yubiki method, in which boiling water is poured on the skin in order to tenderize it. This made for a supple, sweet fish set over a portion of soft, semi-sticky rice that really opened up thanks to contrasting accoutrements of lemon, salt, shiso, and wasabi.
8: Owan: Shiro Amadai
Chef Go considers the owan course the most important at Hayato, largely due to the effort involved in making the dashi utilized. The result was a suimono demonstrating both lightness and profundity, livened up by a touch of yuzu zest. At the same time, white tilefish was grilled, then finished by steaming in broth, making for a wonderfully tender, savory, salty fish with just the right amount of smokiness.
9: Otsukuri: Japanese Sea Bream, Aori Ika
Two types of sashimi were presented. I began with the bigfin reef squid, sliced on both sides in order to emphasize its subtle sweetness and pleasingly soft mouthfeel. There was also madai, at its peak during spring, with its satisfying chew and gentle-yet-concentrated salinity. Both the squid and snapper were well-accented by dashes of wasabi and salt, which the Chef actually prefers in place of soy sauce.
10: Steamed Abalone
Ensenadense wild abalone was prepared by steaming, with the resulting liquid runoff collected and reincorporated, while the accompanying sauce was made from the gastropod's liver, tinted green by the seaweed it feasts on. The awabi showcased a gratifying texture and a refined-but-robust saline-savoriness, making it both delicious on its own or with a dip into that grassy, earthy kimo. And yes, I requested some rice to mop up the sauce with.
Sake is a classic pairing with the course above, so I was given a pour of the Isojiman "Omachi 53" Tokubetsu Junmai, Shizuoka. Aromas here were bright and mineral-driven, with a backing of sweet orchard fruit and cooked rice. Taking a sip, I found a fairly thick mouthfeel, with flavors that highlighted more of that aforementioned fruit, along with a tangy acidity and touches of ricey umami.
11: Charcoal Grilled Kinki, Roasted Onion
Channel rockfish from Hokkaido is the Chef's favorite for grilling, and I can see why. I too was smitten by the thornyhead's fatty, almost gelatinous texture and balance of smoky and sweet flavors. The fish was delectable on its own of course, but I was also a big fan of that wonderfully savory, caramelized onion on the side, reportedly cooked 90 minutes in embers with dark soy.
12: Panko Crusted Bamboo Shoots
Takenoko is an important spring time vegetable, and tonight's (from Ishikawa Prefecture) was boiled with rice bran, cooked in bonito dashi, then panko-fried. The bamboo was a joy texturally, its inherent crunch playing off its airy breadcrumb coating perfectly. At the same time, the shoots' bittersweetness was proudly conveyed, but also perfectly accented by a dusting of salt.
13: Local Spot Prawns, Tokyo Turnip
We're early in the season for spot prawns, and the Chef prefers a cooked preparation for these smaller examples. The prawns were placed in boiling water to loosen their shells, then iced, skewered, and finished over charcoal, with shells and scraps used to construct a dashi. This made for an uncommonly sweet presentation of shrimp, further amped up by the headiness of that broth, all while a soft, cozy, bitter Japanese turnip and zingy salt-pickled mitsuba helped balance things out.
14: Nabe: Scallop Shinjo, Bamboo Shoots, Wakame
Our nabemono course comprised crisp cuts of bamboo paired with a traditional springtime accompaniment of seaweed, along with a sweetly-saline cake made of Hokkaido scallops that were ground, whipped to an airy consistency, steamed, and finally fried. All three components were then set in a homey broth and, crucially, tied together by the unmistakable pungency of kinome (sansho pepper buds that are another indicator of spring).
15: Karasumi Gohan
The Chef has been serving salted mullet roe sliced and grilled for the past eight years, but only recently opted to present it with white rice, shaved on top with a drizzle of soy sauce-cured egg yolk. It was indeed a winning combination, the intense brininess of the cured roe functioning as a very fitting foil to that warm, just-sticky-enough rice.
It turns out that Go-san's favorite thing to eat with sake is karasumi, hence this complimentary pour of Kamonishiki Funabagumi Junmai Daiginjo, a fresh, fruity tipple that paired swimmingly with the heavier nuances of the dish above.
16: Nodoguro Rice Pot with Shell Peas
As always, a dinner at Hayato ends with a kamameshi course, and tonight's was a bit of a stunner, combining mouthwateringly rich, fatty cuts of akamutsu with the sheer brightness of peas and the pungency of ginger, all layered over a spot-on base of okoge-laced rice. I ate five bowls, and could've done more, but didn't want to hold up everyone else from moving on to dessert. Also included in this course was a much-appreciated variety of kōnomono (cucumber, myoga, turnip, chrysanthemum flower), as well as a small bowl of extra-seaweed-y miso soup.
At this point, the party sitting to my left offered a pour of their Jacques Selosse "Initial" that they ordered off the wine list, and obviously I couldn't refuse. The Champagne's nose was more in the oxidative realm, boasting further yeasty and apple juice elements. The sparkler was even more pleasing on the tongue, with loads of brioche, nuts, plum, and sweet spices, again all rendered in an oxidative manner.
Dessert kicked off with a slice of Crown Melon, a type of muskmelon grown in temperature/humidity-controlled greenhouses in Shizuoka, reportedly using the "one tree, one fruit" method. Served nearly ice-cold as per the Chef's preference, it tasted of super concentrated, almost candied melon juice, while its texture was nearly creamy in consistency. I find it hard to imagine a better version of the fruit.
Three types of tea were paired with dessert, starting with the hojicha, a roasted green tea that was actually gentler in terms of toastiness and nuttiness than most I've had.
17: Harry's Berries with Kinako Cream
Extra sweet, extra juicy strawberries were matched with a marvelously nutty whipped cream infused with roasted soybean flour. I had three servings.
Next to enjoy was a cup of hot, vegetal, astringent sencha from Kyoto. Do note that this green tea was apparently used to make the hojicha above, as Kaori-san roasts the leaves daily before service.
Wagashi duties were taken care of by a floral, sandy-textured sakura sugar candy.
Last up was a frothy serving of matcha. Its generally grassy, savory, bittersweet flavor profile made for a suitable close to the meal, and I had two cups.
Previously, I'd only dined at Hayato during autumn and winter, so it was a pleasant change of pace to be able to visit during the springtime. Just as expected, the meal was a precise, thoughtful, deliberate celebration of the season--a deeply personal, intimate expression of Chef Go's cooking that speaks to the heart and soul of washoku. It's clear why this is the toughest table in town.
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