Sushi Nakazawa (Los Angeles, CA)
Sushi Nakazawa LA
145 S Robertson Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
310-953-3221
www.sushinakazawa.com
Wed 07/29/2026, 07:55p-10:30p
If we're talking about the most anticipated SoCal sushi debuts of the past couple of years, I have to imagine that Sushi Nakazawa has to be near the top of that list. Grand-opened in May, the sushi-ya is of course the creation of Chef Daisuke Nakazawa, who rose to fame after he was featured in David Gelb's 2011 film Jiro Dreams of Sushi and subsequently opened the first Sushi Nakazawa in NYC back in 2013. This LA location has been in work since at least 2022, so I was a bit curious to see what all the fuss was about.
About the Chef: Nakazawa Daisuke (中澤大祐) was born in 1978 and hails from Saitama Prefecture. He reportedly made the decision to become a sushi chef after a close friend dropped out of high school to apprentice in the craft. Nakazawa, however, chose to finish his education, and subsequently attended Oda Culinary College (織田調理師専門学校) in Tokyo. From there, he was able to secure a job at Yoshi Sushi (よし寿司) in Warabi, Saitama when he was 19, but didn't last long, instead leaving to work in IT sales. That gig only lasted about a year though, and Nakazawa would then work at Tsukiji fish market hauling tuna for a brief period.
It was around this time when he got married to his wife Rie (a fellow Saitaman), and after returning from his honeymoon, he applied for a position at the famed Sukiyabashi Jiro in Ginza. He was accepted, and at age 23, would start training under Jiro Ono from the ground up. Nakazawa ended up staying for 11 years, but began thinking about moving abroad in the aftermath of the 2011 Fukushima earthquake. He was eventually connected to Chef Shiro Kashiba, who, starting in 1959, apprenticed under Ono-san at Yoshino (与志乃) in Ginza (an outpost of the main branch in Kyōbashi). Kashiba eventually made his way to the US in late 1966, and would eventually open Shiro's in Seattle in 1995. This is where Nakazawa ended up.
He began working there in April 2012, and the idea was to have him train to become Kashiba-san's successor. However, things didn't work out that way. In November 2012, he was contacted by Alessandro Borgognone (b. October 1980), a New Yorker who grew up is his family's restaurant business and was running Patricia's of Morris Park, an Italian joint in the Bronx. Borgognone had seen the Chef featured in Jiro Dreams of Sushi, and as a result, was inspired to open his open sushi place with Nakazawa at the helm. After getting to know each other, the two decided to go into business together (along with Maurizio de Rosa), and thus Sushi Nakazawa was born.
The sushi spot would debut in August 2013, set in the former home of Robert G Salon in Manhattan's West Village. The place was pretty much a hit right from the start, and in December that year, even garnered a rare four-star review from Pete Wells of The New York Times (though it did lose a star in January 2020). The restaurant expanded into the space next door (the old Phil Luangrath store) in February 2016, and in November that year, it was announced that a Sushi Nakazawa location would be opening in Washington, DC.
Said location eventually bowed in June 2018, situated inside the Trump International Hotel (now the Waldorf Astoria) in Federal Triangle. In November 2018, the original Sushi Nakazawa earned a Michelin star, followed by DC in October 2019; both stars have since been continuously retained. There was also a Nakazawa pop-up in Aspen that kicked off in December 2020. Meanwhile, May 2022 saw the introduction of Saito, a sake bar in Nolita that Nakazawa-san founded in collaboration with Hitoshi Fujita. Notably, the eatery was created without Borgognone's involvement, but wound up shuttering just a few years later.
Also in May 2022, Sushi Nakazawa commenced a pop-up at The Peninsula Beverly Hills that ran through October that year, when it was revealed that the restaurant would be staying in LA permanently. In late May 2024, Chef Nakazawa launched Hi Dozo, a delivery-only sushi concept created in partnership with DoorDash, while Sushi Nakazawa proper would take significantly longer to debut, only opening its doors on May 13th this year.
As for Sushi Nakazawa's leadership team, in addition to Nakazawa and Borgognone, the overall business is led by Director of Operations Vito Ferraro, who's been with the restaurant since pretty much the beginning, and Culinary Director David Kim, who joined in 2017. Locally in LA, the kitchen is under the watch of Executive Chef Ken Ji (池姃根) and Executive Sous Chef Jeffrey Hunter, a veteran of both the NYC and DC locations. Meanwhile, the FOH is the responsibility of General Manager Anthony Arvin, a Betony alum who started at Sushi Nakazawa in 2018; he was assisted in the dining room this evening by Ryuto (龍斗) and Samantha.
Sushi Nakazawa takes over a Beverly Grove structure that was previously home to the longstanding Cuvée. The space has been completely transformed by the team over at Studio UNLTD, and boasts an aesthetic "inspired by an underwater cavern." The focus is squarely on a 16-seater sushi bar surrounding a full kitchen, though there's also table seating available, while patio dining will be implemented somewhere down the line (with perhaps an abbreviated menu).
Here's the view from my seat at the sushi counter, fourth position from the left.
As of now, there are two dining options: the Chef's Menu at $295pp (nigiri plus prepared courses--my pick) and the Classic Menu at $190pp (nigiri-only, but more pieces). You'll also find a few supplemental dishes (some of which are included in the Chef's Menu), and à la carte ordering is offered at the end of your omakase as well. Beverage-wise, you get a surprisingly good sake list and wine list put together by Beverage Director Dean Fuerth (Betony, Bouley), while Sommelier Dmitrii Saenko (Maybourne Beverly Hills, Manzke) runs things locally. It's probably the best list I've seen at a sushi joint, though some of the selections are ridiculously priced, for example Daishichi's Myoka Rangyoku Omega at $5,800 (which you can buy for under $1,000) and Aramasa's Brain Damage "The Heretic & Co" at $6,200 (I purchased Aramasa's even more desirable Invisible Pink Unicorn at Hayato for $595 earlier this year). If you're so inclined, corkage is $75. Click for larger versions.
Not long after being seated, a bowl of ginger and a finger napkin were placed before me (both were subsequently refreshed later in the meal).
1: Senbei | O-Toro, Caviar
The evening's first course married dices of fatty tuna with zippy green onion, all finished by the saltiness of golden ossetra caviar. I was also a fan of the crunch from the rice cracker "taco shell." A fun bite that set the tone for the rest of the meal.
To drink, I brought along the 2006 Dom Pérignon Champagne Brut Björk & Chris Cunningham Limited Edition. The flagship cuvée from Moët & Chandon, DP is probably the most iconic Champagne out there, and witnessed its first vintage all the way back in 1921. The wine is somewhat known for its special edition labels created in collaboration with various artists and creatives, as we see here. I don't normally bother with such frivolities, but decided to get the fancier version of the bottle this time around given my blog's twentieth anniversary festivities.
2: Unagi | Tsume, Sansho
Freshwater eel arrived with a lightly crisp exterior and tender insides, while flavors initially emphasized the sweetness of a kokuto-boosted nitsume before transitioning to the sting of sansho.
3: Juwari Soba | Ikura, Cucumber
Housemade 100% buckwheat noodles ate firm and nutty, meshing seamlessly with the dish's tart, saline, floral, and herby components. I eagerly supped up the remaining broth, which I believe incorporated sobacha.
4: Hotate | Sea Scallop
Our first nigiri course brought out sweet cuts of Hokkaido scallop, enhanced by a dash of sake reduction and the unmistakable kick of yuzukosho.
5: Aori Ika | Big Fin Reef Squid
Lightly aged bigfin reef squid was a joy texturally, and seemed to get more savory-sweet the more I chewed. Accompaniments of pickled plum paste and shiso certainly worked, but even more important was the bite's finish of warm rice.
6: Surinagashi | Botan Ebi, Truffle
The soup course featured a welcomed back-and-forth between the sweetness of summer corn and the potent musk of Australian black truffle. Bits of spot prawn helped moderate that interaction, while pops of finger lime contributed an unexpected, but not unwelcomed sourness.
7: Makogarei | Marbled Flounder
Marbled sole is a summertime treat that you don't find very often, so I was glad to see it on the menu. Its delicate sweetness took well to a brushing of savory soy, while more interesting was the tartness imparted by a sprinkling of kumquat zest. And again, that warm-ish shari was key.
8: Kinmedai | Goldeneye Snapper
Splendid alfonsino is undoubtedly one of my favorite neta, and it didn't let me down tonight. The fish displayed a delightful smoke, and its fine, sweet flesh paired swimmingly with accoutrements of Welsh sea salt and citrus.
9: Aji | Horse Mackerel
I'm also a big fan of horse mackerel as a general rule, and I wasn't disappointed here. The fish had that slick, supple consistency I was seeking, while its refined brine worked hand-in-hand with both the overtly onion-y notes from chive and a subtle hit of ginger. And once more, that warm, loose rice was especially crucial on the finish.
10: Akamutsu | Tofu Cloud, Scallion Oil
I think it's safe to say that blackthroat seaperch is my favorite fish. The nodoguro was cooked in the style of matsukasa-yaki (hot oil poured on the skin), and indeed, that skin was the star of the show--super flavorful and a consummate match with that soft, savory flesh. The zing of scallion oil and fresh herbs made for a smart contrast, while that sweet-ish tofu mousseline toned things down a notch.
11: Hiramasa | Golden Striped Amberjack
Yellowtail amberjack ate nutty and full of umami, and I quite liked its "snappy" texture to boot. However, my complaint was that there was a tough section of skin left on the fish, which somewhat marred the eating experience with this one.
12: Katsuo | Hay-Smoked Skipjack
Skipjack tuna made for one of the most memorable bites of the night thanks to its assertive, almost ham-like smokiness, which pervaded the piece and lingered long, but never became domineering.
13: Akami | Lean Bluefin Tuna
It was now time for a three-way of Ehime-sourced bluefin. The ruby-hued tuna had that prototypical depth and savor I expected, offset by rice that was seemingly stickier, cooler, and less vinegary.
14: Chu-Toro | Medium Fatty Bluefin Tuna
Chutoro from the same fish proffered a noticeable step up in both the sweetness and lusciousness departments.
15: O-Toro | Fatty Bluefin Tuna
Naturally, the otoro was the most luxurious of the trio, arriving properly fatty and melt-in-my-mouth. I was told that the bite contained karashi, but I would've liked to have tasted more from the mustard.
16: Uni | Tempura, Sorbet
Next came a sea urchin duo. I began with a wasabi snow-dusted sorbet of Hokkaido bafun uni, which did a nice job capturing the sweet, creamy, oceany essence of the urchin. We also had a light, crisp tempura of shiso-wrapped Santa Barbara uni, which went in a delectably savory direction. However, the trick here was to have the two together--a real "greater than the sum of its parts" type of situation thanks to how well both preparations complemented each other in terms of texture and taste.
17: Wagyu | Porcini, Whisky Jus
A tenderloin of Miyazaki beef was relatively restrained as far as wagyu goes, with the meat taking surprisingly well to the potency of the accompanying jus. Mushrooms amped things up even more, and the Australian truffle even more so. A lot of hefty flavors going on, but fortunately things never felt out of balance.
18: Temaki | Fatty Bluefin Tuna, Takuan
A toro hand roll highlighted the classic interaction between tuna and rice--accented by the burn of wasabi--but my favorite thing was actually the seaweed, which was uncommonly crisp and umami-laden. Note that there was no takuan present, despite what was shown on the menu.
Supplement: Benizake [$12.00] | Sockeye Salmon
At this point, it was time to order any supplemental nigiri, and first up was the hay-smoked sockeye. The fish was super smoky--in a good way--but it was a different type of smoke compared to the skipjack above, being sweeter, more piercing, more astringent.
Supplement: Masunosuke [$14.00] | King Salmon
Chinook salmon was a step up in terms of fat, savor, and meltiness, and certainly made a lot of sense with the slight char imparted by its blowtorching. I was told that there was karashi utilized, but again, I wanted it to be more aggressive.
Supplement: Kani [$14.00] | Crab
Here, the signature sweetness of crab was well conveyed, but also counterbalanced by the deep, earthy, oceany smack of kanimiso.
Supplement: Auction Uni [$65.00] | Long Spine Purple Sea Urchin, Hokkaido
Auction grade kita-murasaki sea urchin from Hakodate, Hokkaido was sourced from noted supplier Hadate Suisan (羽立水産株式会社). The uni had that sophisticated sort of creamy sweet-salinity I was anticipating, which combined easily with both the slight burn of wasabi and that mildly-seasoned rice. An elegant couple of bites.
19: Anago | Sea Eel
Simmered saltwater eel came out soft and sweet and saline, with the rice keeping it all in check.
20: Tamago | Egg Cake
Of course, we had to have Nakazawa's signature tamagoyaki, a castella-style preparation incorporating shrimp and mountain yam. Texturally, I found it moist and spongey and substantial, yet light and fluffy, while the cake's eggy sweetness was backed by a good amount of umami.
To go along with dessert, diners were provided with a complementary serving of nutty, roasty soba-cha (buckwheat tea).
21: Amazake | Ice Cream
Dessert featured an amazake ice cream that I found uncommonly dense and smooth, with a multifaceted ricey-sweetness that linked up with embellishments of Japanese chocolate soil, black sesame, roasted soybean flour (kinako), and a chocolate tuile.
I came into Sushi Nakazawa a bit skeptical. Given that this is the third outpost of the restaurant, I was concerned that the team might've spread themselves too thin. Fortunately, my experience ended up being better than I was expecting. The kitchen does take some liberties with the food at times, which I don't necessarily mind, while service was generally on point, though it's implemented in a more "Western" manner that might be unsettling to some. Overall though, Nakazawa's a worthwhile option if you're looking for a break from the rigidity that often comes with edomae sushi.
145 S Robertson Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
310-953-3221
www.sushinakazawa.com
Wed 07/29/2026, 07:55p-10:30p
If we're talking about the most anticipated SoCal sushi debuts of the past couple of years, I have to imagine that Sushi Nakazawa has to be near the top of that list. Grand-opened in May, the sushi-ya is of course the creation of Chef Daisuke Nakazawa, who rose to fame after he was featured in David Gelb's 2011 film Jiro Dreams of Sushi and subsequently opened the first Sushi Nakazawa in NYC back in 2013. This LA location has been in work since at least 2022, so I was a bit curious to see what all the fuss was about.
About the Chef: Nakazawa Daisuke (中澤大祐) was born in 1978 and hails from Saitama Prefecture. He reportedly made the decision to become a sushi chef after a close friend dropped out of high school to apprentice in the craft. Nakazawa, however, chose to finish his education, and subsequently attended Oda Culinary College (織田調理師専門学校) in Tokyo. From there, he was able to secure a job at Yoshi Sushi (よし寿司) in Warabi, Saitama when he was 19, but didn't last long, instead leaving to work in IT sales. That gig only lasted about a year though, and Nakazawa would then work at Tsukiji fish market hauling tuna for a brief period.
It was around this time when he got married to his wife Rie (a fellow Saitaman), and after returning from his honeymoon, he applied for a position at the famed Sukiyabashi Jiro in Ginza. He was accepted, and at age 23, would start training under Jiro Ono from the ground up. Nakazawa ended up staying for 11 years, but began thinking about moving abroad in the aftermath of the 2011 Fukushima earthquake. He was eventually connected to Chef Shiro Kashiba, who, starting in 1959, apprenticed under Ono-san at Yoshino (与志乃) in Ginza (an outpost of the main branch in Kyōbashi). Kashiba eventually made his way to the US in late 1966, and would eventually open Shiro's in Seattle in 1995. This is where Nakazawa ended up.
He began working there in April 2012, and the idea was to have him train to become Kashiba-san's successor. However, things didn't work out that way. In November 2012, he was contacted by Alessandro Borgognone (b. October 1980), a New Yorker who grew up is his family's restaurant business and was running Patricia's of Morris Park, an Italian joint in the Bronx. Borgognone had seen the Chef featured in Jiro Dreams of Sushi, and as a result, was inspired to open his open sushi place with Nakazawa at the helm. After getting to know each other, the two decided to go into business together (along with Maurizio de Rosa), and thus Sushi Nakazawa was born.
The sushi spot would debut in August 2013, set in the former home of Robert G Salon in Manhattan's West Village. The place was pretty much a hit right from the start, and in December that year, even garnered a rare four-star review from Pete Wells of The New York Times (though it did lose a star in January 2020). The restaurant expanded into the space next door (the old Phil Luangrath store) in February 2016, and in November that year, it was announced that a Sushi Nakazawa location would be opening in Washington, DC.
Said location eventually bowed in June 2018, situated inside the Trump International Hotel (now the Waldorf Astoria) in Federal Triangle. In November 2018, the original Sushi Nakazawa earned a Michelin star, followed by DC in October 2019; both stars have since been continuously retained. There was also a Nakazawa pop-up in Aspen that kicked off in December 2020. Meanwhile, May 2022 saw the introduction of Saito, a sake bar in Nolita that Nakazawa-san founded in collaboration with Hitoshi Fujita. Notably, the eatery was created without Borgognone's involvement, but wound up shuttering just a few years later.
Also in May 2022, Sushi Nakazawa commenced a pop-up at The Peninsula Beverly Hills that ran through October that year, when it was revealed that the restaurant would be staying in LA permanently. In late May 2024, Chef Nakazawa launched Hi Dozo, a delivery-only sushi concept created in partnership with DoorDash, while Sushi Nakazawa proper would take significantly longer to debut, only opening its doors on May 13th this year.
As for Sushi Nakazawa's leadership team, in addition to Nakazawa and Borgognone, the overall business is led by Director of Operations Vito Ferraro, who's been with the restaurant since pretty much the beginning, and Culinary Director David Kim, who joined in 2017. Locally in LA, the kitchen is under the watch of Executive Chef Ken Ji (池姃根) and Executive Sous Chef Jeffrey Hunter, a veteran of both the NYC and DC locations. Meanwhile, the FOH is the responsibility of General Manager Anthony Arvin, a Betony alum who started at Sushi Nakazawa in 2018; he was assisted in the dining room this evening by Ryuto (龍斗) and Samantha.
Sushi Nakazawa takes over a Beverly Grove structure that was previously home to the longstanding Cuvée. The space has been completely transformed by the team over at Studio UNLTD, and boasts an aesthetic "inspired by an underwater cavern." The focus is squarely on a 16-seater sushi bar surrounding a full kitchen, though there's also table seating available, while patio dining will be implemented somewhere down the line (with perhaps an abbreviated menu).
Here's the view from my seat at the sushi counter, fourth position from the left.
As of now, there are two dining options: the Chef's Menu at $295pp (nigiri plus prepared courses--my pick) and the Classic Menu at $190pp (nigiri-only, but more pieces). You'll also find a few supplemental dishes (some of which are included in the Chef's Menu), and à la carte ordering is offered at the end of your omakase as well. Beverage-wise, you get a surprisingly good sake list and wine list put together by Beverage Director Dean Fuerth (Betony, Bouley), while Sommelier Dmitrii Saenko (Maybourne Beverly Hills, Manzke) runs things locally. It's probably the best list I've seen at a sushi joint, though some of the selections are ridiculously priced, for example Daishichi's Myoka Rangyoku Omega at $5,800 (which you can buy for under $1,000) and Aramasa's Brain Damage "The Heretic & Co" at $6,200 (I purchased Aramasa's even more desirable Invisible Pink Unicorn at Hayato for $595 earlier this year). If you're so inclined, corkage is $75. Click for larger versions.
Not long after being seated, a bowl of ginger and a finger napkin were placed before me (both were subsequently refreshed later in the meal).
1: Senbei | O-Toro, Caviar
The evening's first course married dices of fatty tuna with zippy green onion, all finished by the saltiness of golden ossetra caviar. I was also a fan of the crunch from the rice cracker "taco shell." A fun bite that set the tone for the rest of the meal.
To drink, I brought along the 2006 Dom Pérignon Champagne Brut Björk & Chris Cunningham Limited Edition. The flagship cuvée from Moët & Chandon, DP is probably the most iconic Champagne out there, and witnessed its first vintage all the way back in 1921. The wine is somewhat known for its special edition labels created in collaboration with various artists and creatives, as we see here. I don't normally bother with such frivolities, but decided to get the fancier version of the bottle this time around given my blog's twentieth anniversary festivities.
- Initial Impressions: Super toasty on the nose, with supporting notes of quince and mixed nuts. On the palate: quite lively, with a robust acidity and more of those bready flavors along with a marked sweetness and hints of lemon, all countered by a persistent thread of bitterness.
- After 45 Minutes: Aromas were noticeably richer, with far less toast and much more apple, both juiced and caramelized. Taste-wise, I found more of that orchard fruit, along with a more apparent smokiness and minerality.
- After 100 Minutes: As the sparkler warmed up, things became even lusher, with loads of ripe apple at the fore, juxtaposed with just a smidge of citric astringency for good measure.
2: Unagi | Tsume, Sansho
Freshwater eel arrived with a lightly crisp exterior and tender insides, while flavors initially emphasized the sweetness of a kokuto-boosted nitsume before transitioning to the sting of sansho.
3: Juwari Soba | Ikura, Cucumber
Housemade 100% buckwheat noodles ate firm and nutty, meshing seamlessly with the dish's tart, saline, floral, and herby components. I eagerly supped up the remaining broth, which I believe incorporated sobacha.
4: Hotate | Sea Scallop
Our first nigiri course brought out sweet cuts of Hokkaido scallop, enhanced by a dash of sake reduction and the unmistakable kick of yuzukosho.
5: Aori Ika | Big Fin Reef Squid
Lightly aged bigfin reef squid was a joy texturally, and seemed to get more savory-sweet the more I chewed. Accompaniments of pickled plum paste and shiso certainly worked, but even more important was the bite's finish of warm rice.
6: Surinagashi | Botan Ebi, Truffle
The soup course featured a welcomed back-and-forth between the sweetness of summer corn and the potent musk of Australian black truffle. Bits of spot prawn helped moderate that interaction, while pops of finger lime contributed an unexpected, but not unwelcomed sourness.
7: Makogarei | Marbled Flounder
Marbled sole is a summertime treat that you don't find very often, so I was glad to see it on the menu. Its delicate sweetness took well to a brushing of savory soy, while more interesting was the tartness imparted by a sprinkling of kumquat zest. And again, that warm-ish shari was key.
8: Kinmedai | Goldeneye Snapper
Splendid alfonsino is undoubtedly one of my favorite neta, and it didn't let me down tonight. The fish displayed a delightful smoke, and its fine, sweet flesh paired swimmingly with accoutrements of Welsh sea salt and citrus.
9: Aji | Horse Mackerel
I'm also a big fan of horse mackerel as a general rule, and I wasn't disappointed here. The fish had that slick, supple consistency I was seeking, while its refined brine worked hand-in-hand with both the overtly onion-y notes from chive and a subtle hit of ginger. And once more, that warm, loose rice was especially crucial on the finish.
10: Akamutsu | Tofu Cloud, Scallion Oil
I think it's safe to say that blackthroat seaperch is my favorite fish. The nodoguro was cooked in the style of matsukasa-yaki (hot oil poured on the skin), and indeed, that skin was the star of the show--super flavorful and a consummate match with that soft, savory flesh. The zing of scallion oil and fresh herbs made for a smart contrast, while that sweet-ish tofu mousseline toned things down a notch.
11: Hiramasa | Golden Striped Amberjack
Yellowtail amberjack ate nutty and full of umami, and I quite liked its "snappy" texture to boot. However, my complaint was that there was a tough section of skin left on the fish, which somewhat marred the eating experience with this one.
12: Katsuo | Hay-Smoked Skipjack
Skipjack tuna made for one of the most memorable bites of the night thanks to its assertive, almost ham-like smokiness, which pervaded the piece and lingered long, but never became domineering.
13: Akami | Lean Bluefin Tuna
It was now time for a three-way of Ehime-sourced bluefin. The ruby-hued tuna had that prototypical depth and savor I expected, offset by rice that was seemingly stickier, cooler, and less vinegary.
14: Chu-Toro | Medium Fatty Bluefin Tuna
Chutoro from the same fish proffered a noticeable step up in both the sweetness and lusciousness departments.
15: O-Toro | Fatty Bluefin Tuna
Naturally, the otoro was the most luxurious of the trio, arriving properly fatty and melt-in-my-mouth. I was told that the bite contained karashi, but I would've liked to have tasted more from the mustard.
16: Uni | Tempura, Sorbet
Next came a sea urchin duo. I began with a wasabi snow-dusted sorbet of Hokkaido bafun uni, which did a nice job capturing the sweet, creamy, oceany essence of the urchin. We also had a light, crisp tempura of shiso-wrapped Santa Barbara uni, which went in a delectably savory direction. However, the trick here was to have the two together--a real "greater than the sum of its parts" type of situation thanks to how well both preparations complemented each other in terms of texture and taste.
17: Wagyu | Porcini, Whisky Jus
A tenderloin of Miyazaki beef was relatively restrained as far as wagyu goes, with the meat taking surprisingly well to the potency of the accompanying jus. Mushrooms amped things up even more, and the Australian truffle even more so. A lot of hefty flavors going on, but fortunately things never felt out of balance.
18: Temaki | Fatty Bluefin Tuna, Takuan
A toro hand roll highlighted the classic interaction between tuna and rice--accented by the burn of wasabi--but my favorite thing was actually the seaweed, which was uncommonly crisp and umami-laden. Note that there was no takuan present, despite what was shown on the menu.
Supplement: Benizake [$12.00] | Sockeye Salmon
At this point, it was time to order any supplemental nigiri, and first up was the hay-smoked sockeye. The fish was super smoky--in a good way--but it was a different type of smoke compared to the skipjack above, being sweeter, more piercing, more astringent.
Supplement: Masunosuke [$14.00] | King Salmon
Chinook salmon was a step up in terms of fat, savor, and meltiness, and certainly made a lot of sense with the slight char imparted by its blowtorching. I was told that there was karashi utilized, but again, I wanted it to be more aggressive.
Supplement: Kani [$14.00] | Crab
Here, the signature sweetness of crab was well conveyed, but also counterbalanced by the deep, earthy, oceany smack of kanimiso.
Supplement: Auction Uni [$65.00] | Long Spine Purple Sea Urchin, Hokkaido
Auction grade kita-murasaki sea urchin from Hakodate, Hokkaido was sourced from noted supplier Hadate Suisan (羽立水産株式会社). The uni had that sophisticated sort of creamy sweet-salinity I was anticipating, which combined easily with both the slight burn of wasabi and that mildly-seasoned rice. An elegant couple of bites.
19: Anago | Sea Eel
Simmered saltwater eel came out soft and sweet and saline, with the rice keeping it all in check.
20: Tamago | Egg Cake
Of course, we had to have Nakazawa's signature tamagoyaki, a castella-style preparation incorporating shrimp and mountain yam. Texturally, I found it moist and spongey and substantial, yet light and fluffy, while the cake's eggy sweetness was backed by a good amount of umami.
To go along with dessert, diners were provided with a complementary serving of nutty, roasty soba-cha (buckwheat tea).
21: Amazake | Ice Cream
Dessert featured an amazake ice cream that I found uncommonly dense and smooth, with a multifaceted ricey-sweetness that linked up with embellishments of Japanese chocolate soil, black sesame, roasted soybean flour (kinako), and a chocolate tuile.
I came into Sushi Nakazawa a bit skeptical. Given that this is the third outpost of the restaurant, I was concerned that the team might've spread themselves too thin. Fortunately, my experience ended up being better than I was expecting. The kitchen does take some liberties with the food at times, which I don't necessarily mind, while service was generally on point, though it's implemented in a more "Western" manner that might be unsettling to some. Overall though, Nakazawa's a worthwhile option if you're looking for a break from the rigidity that often comes with edomae sushi.
posted by kevinEats at
7:55 PM
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