Camphor (Los Angeles, CA) [3]
Camphor Restaurant
923 E 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213-626-8888
www.camphor.la
Sat 07/19/2025, 05:30p-08:45p
Ever since opening in 2022, Camphor has remained one of my top picks when it comes to Downtown Arts District dining. I certainly haven't been alone in my praise, and the place was even Michelin starred in December 2022, with the honor having been retained since then. The restaurant debuted with Co-Executive Chefs Max Boonthanakit and Lijo George at the helm, but it turns out that the latter decamped around August 2024, and went on to help open Cal-Indian eatery Eylan up in Menlo Park. Given this surprising exit, I felt it might be instructive to return to Camphor and see how things are going.
Inside, things haven't changed much at all, and that's no problem. I will say that this was the first time I've eaten here while it was still bright out.
Pictured above is the menu. I was surprised to see how much smaller it is these days, perhaps a victim of Chef George's departure (as evinced by the seeming erasure of any Indian influence on the food). We also see a selection of wines by the glass, cocktails, and beer, which doesn't seem to have been tweaked much. I'll also have to point out a newly-instituted 3.5% credit card processing fee, which is a bit ridiculous at a restaurant of this caliber. Click for larger versions.
As always, heavily-scented wetted napkins were very much appreciated.
Rue Sainte-Anne [$21.00] | Ume Japanese whisky, Raicilla, Orange Liqueur, Champagne Acid
I was able to sample four cocktails this evening, and was attracted to this first one due to its utilization of raicilla, which is still an uncommon sight around these parts. The vegetal, earthy character of the spirit was well-integrated, and really became apparent on the mid-palate, where it melded seamlessly with forces of spice and citrus.
Gougères were given a twist thanks to the incorporation of what I believe were disks of Gruyère cheesecake and dashes of freshly-cracked black pepper. In addition, I was quite a fan of the pastry's long-lasting cheesiness, which somehow recalled Cheez-Its.
oysters [$42.00] | amaretto mignonette
A sextet of Kusshis was a delight, with the oysters' creaminess and lingering brine marrying surprisingly beautifully with the signature sweetness of amaretto.
sea bream [$45.00] | uni, green apple
I was also a fan of this nontraditional take on a sea bream tartare. The oceany character of the fish was proudly conveyed, and I liked how it meshed with the saline-sweetness of Santa Barbara uni, all while elements of green apple granita, herb, and what I believe was horseradish cream worked for contrast.
radicchio salad [$25.00]
This was perhaps the most intriguing radicchio salad I've had, with the veggie's spicy-bitterness playing foil to a passion fruit Caesar dressing that smartly combined tropical flavors with the brine of anchovy. I appreciated the heft and texture imparted by the Parmesan, too.
La Chapelle [$20.00] | Calvados, Jamaican Rum, Masala cider, Vanilla, Lemon, herbal honey liqueur
This next cocktail was also to my liking. I think the key here was how the drink's base of apple and honeyed flavors interacted with all the sweet-n-spicy nuances present.
At this point, a small plate of housemade sourdough breadcrumbs arrived at the table, along with a saucière of sauce grenobloise (brown butter, chicken stock, capers, parsley).
Our flatfish arrived expertly seared and was filleted tableside, then dressed appropriately with the accoutrements above.
dover sole [$150.00] | grenobloise
Sole à la grenobloise isn't exactly a common dish on menus these days, so I was glad to be able to enjoy it tonight. The fish was on point texturally, its flesh managing to achieve a gratifying mix of supple and meaty, while taste-wise, the sole was able to stand up to its buttery, citrusy sauce without ever getting overwhelmed. I quite liked the additional crunch from the bread crumbs, too. My only gripe was that there were more small fragments of bone present than I would've liked.
scallop [$42.00] | demi lune
The half-moon pasta met the mark as well, with the scallop's subtle sweetness pairing like clockwork with the gentle musk of a truffle beurre blanc.
Montmartre [$21.00] | Pineapple rum, Blend of Amari, Pineapple Juice, Lime
Here we have the most easy-going cocktail of the night, one that really highlighted the tart, tropical nature of pineapple, moderated just enough by a blend of herbal liqueurs.
We were provided a serving of soft, sweet brioche to mop up the two plates above.
Next, we were offered a choice of steak knives, all sourced from producer Deejo.
ribeye [$125.00] | maître d' butter (12 oz.)
A comely cut of rib eye was pretty much spot-on in terms of temperature, and boasted a healthy sear as well, while the steak also showed off the earthier, more mineral-driven flavors one generally expects with grass-fed beef, but in a good way. The included compound butter, meanwhile, went in an assertively herby, sweet-ish direction, so a little went a long way.
Accompanying the ribeye were marble potatoes cooked in Bordier butter, along with a sauce boat filled with crème fraîche, chives, and black pepper. I was pretty enamored with the almost creamy texture on the taters, and when everything was taken together, I found the whole thing delightfully reminiscent of the sour cream-and-onion baked potatoes of my childhood.
Pigalle [$22.00] | Cognac, 16yr Rum, Byrrh Banana, Bitters
Our final cocktail was arguably my favorite of the bunch, as I was rather smitten by its confluence of dark fruit, medicinal, woodsy, bitter, and boozy flavors.
Here we see Camphor's dessert menu, along with the restaurant's array of after-dinner libations (which includes the largest selection of Chartreuse I've seen in LA). Click for larger versions.
seasonal tart [$20.00]
Tonight's tart united raspberry, strawberry, and vanilla mousse in an utterly classic, satisfying fashion, and I didn't mind the crunch of that shattery crust, either.
kiwi [$22.00] | mint
Our second dessert was certainly on the cool, refreshing side, and featured some lovely textures, with flavor-wise, I got the trademark tang of kiwi juxtaposed with plenty of mint and what seemed like cucumber. Very neat.
And finally, mignardise duty was handled by some miniature madeleines.
Despite George's withdrawal, I'm glad to report that the quality of the cooking at Camphor doesn't seem to have declined, and the kitchen is still putting out French food like no one else in LA. However, what does seem to have suffered is the kitchen's pace of innovation, as not only is the menu considerably smaller these days, there hasn't been a truly new dish added to it in nearly two years. I actually compared tonight's menu to what was offered in 2023, and the only apparent updates are minor adjustments to the chicken and ribeye. This is obviously going to limit replay value. But if you miss Chef Lijo's cooking, all is not lost. Apparently, he's returned to Southern California and is planning on opening a new spot in the Valley--I'll surely be on the lookout for that.
923 E 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213-626-8888
www.camphor.la
Sat 07/19/2025, 05:30p-08:45p
Ever since opening in 2022, Camphor has remained one of my top picks when it comes to Downtown Arts District dining. I certainly haven't been alone in my praise, and the place was even Michelin starred in December 2022, with the honor having been retained since then. The restaurant debuted with Co-Executive Chefs Max Boonthanakit and Lijo George at the helm, but it turns out that the latter decamped around August 2024, and went on to help open Cal-Indian eatery Eylan up in Menlo Park. Given this surprising exit, I felt it might be instructive to return to Camphor and see how things are going.
Inside, things haven't changed much at all, and that's no problem. I will say that this was the first time I've eaten here while it was still bright out.
Pictured above is the menu. I was surprised to see how much smaller it is these days, perhaps a victim of Chef George's departure (as evinced by the seeming erasure of any Indian influence on the food). We also see a selection of wines by the glass, cocktails, and beer, which doesn't seem to have been tweaked much. I'll also have to point out a newly-instituted 3.5% credit card processing fee, which is a bit ridiculous at a restaurant of this caliber. Click for larger versions.
As always, heavily-scented wetted napkins were very much appreciated.
Rue Sainte-Anne [$21.00] | Ume Japanese whisky, Raicilla, Orange Liqueur, Champagne Acid
I was able to sample four cocktails this evening, and was attracted to this first one due to its utilization of raicilla, which is still an uncommon sight around these parts. The vegetal, earthy character of the spirit was well-integrated, and really became apparent on the mid-palate, where it melded seamlessly with forces of spice and citrus.
Gougères were given a twist thanks to the incorporation of what I believe were disks of Gruyère cheesecake and dashes of freshly-cracked black pepper. In addition, I was quite a fan of the pastry's long-lasting cheesiness, which somehow recalled Cheez-Its.
oysters [$42.00] | amaretto mignonette
A sextet of Kusshis was a delight, with the oysters' creaminess and lingering brine marrying surprisingly beautifully with the signature sweetness of amaretto.
sea bream [$45.00] | uni, green apple
I was also a fan of this nontraditional take on a sea bream tartare. The oceany character of the fish was proudly conveyed, and I liked how it meshed with the saline-sweetness of Santa Barbara uni, all while elements of green apple granita, herb, and what I believe was horseradish cream worked for contrast.
radicchio salad [$25.00]
This was perhaps the most intriguing radicchio salad I've had, with the veggie's spicy-bitterness playing foil to a passion fruit Caesar dressing that smartly combined tropical flavors with the brine of anchovy. I appreciated the heft and texture imparted by the Parmesan, too.
La Chapelle [$20.00] | Calvados, Jamaican Rum, Masala cider, Vanilla, Lemon, herbal honey liqueur
This next cocktail was also to my liking. I think the key here was how the drink's base of apple and honeyed flavors interacted with all the sweet-n-spicy nuances present.
At this point, a small plate of housemade sourdough breadcrumbs arrived at the table, along with a saucière of sauce grenobloise (brown butter, chicken stock, capers, parsley).
Our flatfish arrived expertly seared and was filleted tableside, then dressed appropriately with the accoutrements above.
dover sole [$150.00] | grenobloise
Sole à la grenobloise isn't exactly a common dish on menus these days, so I was glad to be able to enjoy it tonight. The fish was on point texturally, its flesh managing to achieve a gratifying mix of supple and meaty, while taste-wise, the sole was able to stand up to its buttery, citrusy sauce without ever getting overwhelmed. I quite liked the additional crunch from the bread crumbs, too. My only gripe was that there were more small fragments of bone present than I would've liked.
scallop [$42.00] | demi lune
The half-moon pasta met the mark as well, with the scallop's subtle sweetness pairing like clockwork with the gentle musk of a truffle beurre blanc.
Montmartre [$21.00] | Pineapple rum, Blend of Amari, Pineapple Juice, Lime
Here we have the most easy-going cocktail of the night, one that really highlighted the tart, tropical nature of pineapple, moderated just enough by a blend of herbal liqueurs.
We were provided a serving of soft, sweet brioche to mop up the two plates above.
Next, we were offered a choice of steak knives, all sourced from producer Deejo.
ribeye [$125.00] | maître d' butter (12 oz.)
A comely cut of rib eye was pretty much spot-on in terms of temperature, and boasted a healthy sear as well, while the steak also showed off the earthier, more mineral-driven flavors one generally expects with grass-fed beef, but in a good way. The included compound butter, meanwhile, went in an assertively herby, sweet-ish direction, so a little went a long way.
Accompanying the ribeye were marble potatoes cooked in Bordier butter, along with a sauce boat filled with crème fraîche, chives, and black pepper. I was pretty enamored with the almost creamy texture on the taters, and when everything was taken together, I found the whole thing delightfully reminiscent of the sour cream-and-onion baked potatoes of my childhood.
Pigalle [$22.00] | Cognac, 16yr Rum, Byrrh Banana, Bitters
Our final cocktail was arguably my favorite of the bunch, as I was rather smitten by its confluence of dark fruit, medicinal, woodsy, bitter, and boozy flavors.
Here we see Camphor's dessert menu, along with the restaurant's array of after-dinner libations (which includes the largest selection of Chartreuse I've seen in LA). Click for larger versions.
seasonal tart [$20.00]
Tonight's tart united raspberry, strawberry, and vanilla mousse in an utterly classic, satisfying fashion, and I didn't mind the crunch of that shattery crust, either.
kiwi [$22.00] | mint
Our second dessert was certainly on the cool, refreshing side, and featured some lovely textures, with flavor-wise, I got the trademark tang of kiwi juxtaposed with plenty of mint and what seemed like cucumber. Very neat.
And finally, mignardise duty was handled by some miniature madeleines.
Despite George's withdrawal, I'm glad to report that the quality of the cooking at Camphor doesn't seem to have declined, and the kitchen is still putting out French food like no one else in LA. However, what does seem to have suffered is the kitchen's pace of innovation, as not only is the menu considerably smaller these days, there hasn't been a truly new dish added to it in nearly two years. I actually compared tonight's menu to what was offered in 2023, and the only apparent updates are minor adjustments to the chicken and ribeye. This is obviously going to limit replay value. But if you miss Chef Lijo's cooking, all is not lost. Apparently, he's returned to Southern California and is planning on opening a new spot in the Valley--I'll surely be on the lookout for that.
posted by kevinEats at
5:30 PM
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