Muse (Santa Monica, CA)
Muse Restaurant
108 W Channel Rd, Los Angeles, CA 90402
424-238-5107
www.musesantamonica.com
Sat 06/28/2025, 06:10p-08:30p
I hadn't reported on a Pacific Palisades restaurant since my 2011 meal at Maison Giraud, and given the wildfires that recently devastated the area, I felt that it might be nice to pay the neighborhood a long overdue revisit. My restaurant of choice ended up being Muse, a new-ish modern French spot that opened last August. The place is the creation of Fardad Khayami, a self-taught newcomer to the LA dining scene.
The history: Fardad Ali Mahmoud Khayami was born in July 2000 to a Persian family in London, though he also spent considerable time in the South of France in his younger years. After finishing up his studies at The Harrodian School in 2018, he relocated to Southern California to attend USC's Marshall School of Business, from which he graduated magna cum laude in 2022.
During his time in college, he and roommate David Gelland (BA art history, UCLA) started a dinner series out of their apartment called Museum, with additional support from Taylor Martin and John Stolrow. The pop-up proved to be quite successful, and apparently ended up serving a couple thousand guests, but by the close of 2022, Khayami knew that he needed to open a proper restaurant. After spending the better part of year searching for a location, he eventually stumbled across a building on West Channel Road and got to work, with Muse finally grand-opening on August 16th, 2024.
Joining Khayami in the kitchen is Executive Chef Jason Gonzales, who was most recently opening EC at Juliet in Culver City. Prior to that, he performed R&D for Wish You Were Here group and was CdC at Margot. This was preceded by another Chef de Cuisine position at Cliff's Edge and sous roles at both Union/Knead & Co and Superba Food & Bread. Meanwhile, heading up the sweet side of things is Executive Pastry Chef Nikdad Khayami, Fardad's younger brother, who trained in Paris under noted pâtissier Maxime Frédéric at Cheval Blanc.
Muse resides in an edifice abutting Rustic Canyon that was previously home to Mason Supper Club, Sam's by the Beach, Canyon Bistro, and Louis 4 Seafood. The 35-seat space has been transformed by Marc Ange Design Studio, and it's a rather opulent place to be, seemingly taking inspiration from Parisian Art Deco and 1970s Italy. Note the original artwork on the walls, which will be refreshed periodically (opening artist: Joan Miró), and keep in mind that there's also a 12-seat private dining room as well.
Divvied up into four sections, Muse's menu is relatively compact, and features what seems to be a modern take on French brasserie-ish fare. Drink-wise, you'll find cocktails from Gelland, while the Old World-leaning wine selection is the responsibility of GM/Wine Director Matthew Rogel (Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, Felix, Odys + Penelope, Taberna Arros y Vi, Lazy Ox Canteen). Click for larger versions.
Brioche feuilletée with softened Bordier butter [$16.00]
The meal began with some bread, which was far more interesting than most. I've had a decent amount of brioche in my life, but never one quite like this. I think the key was the use of a détrempe layered with Isigny Sainte-Mère beurre, creating a laminated dough, resulting in a wonderfully tender, buttery, multilayered interior and crisp, almost shattery outsides. It was a superb juxtaposition of textures, and while the Bordier butter on the side was appreciated, it wasn't even necessarily given the flavorsome nature of the bread itself.
Lavande Spritz [$20.00] | Apricot, lavender, sparkling wine
There were only five cocktails on the menu, and not surprisingly, I managed to try all of them. This first one was utterly quaffable and very apropos for the hot weather we've been having, with the lavender's floral, herbal nuances playing nicely with the drink's otherwise sweet, tangy notes.
Tuna tartlets with red pepper gelée & avocado + Top with smoked trout roe [$19.00 + $12.00]
Next was some pretty prototypical tuna tartare, enhanced by the smoky depth of trout roe while those pastry bases worked as crunchy counterpoints.
Veal bonbons with sauce verte [$20.00]
Long-cooked veal ate rich and hearty, its dark-toned flavors joined by a palpable sweetness while a fried brioche exterior mixed things up texturally. Given the heft of the meat, that piquant, herbaceous green sauce was key for balance.
Vesper [$21.00] | Vodka, gin, citrus amaro, vermouth blanco, orange bitters
This cocktail was the booziest of the bunch, but the one-two punch of gin and vodka never got domineering thanks to the drink's sweet, fruity underpinning. Quite nicely integrated.
Cherry tomato tart with herbs de Provence [$28.00]
The tarte aux tomates was undoubtedly a bright, summery dish, one that married tangy tomatoes with a base of savory shallot confit, all while a dollop of ricotta mousse lightened the mood. My gripe here was that I wanted the pastry to be airier, more delicate, more multilayered.
Creste di gallo with basil pesto [$32.00]
Cock's comb pasta was a joy texturally, and took well to the aggressively nutty, herby, savory pesto. Nice crunch from those breadcrumbs, too.
Mirage [$20.00] | Tequila, passionfruit, coconut, lime
This was another easy-going cocktail, one that really highlighted the smooth, sweet, almost creamy character of coconut, set against the tartness of citrus and passion fruit.
Catalana risotto with California spot prawn tartare and arugula purée [$90.00]
I'm not exactly sure what made this a "Catalan" risotto, but whatever it was, it worked. Consistency-wise, the rice was pleasingly firm-ish, and well-imbued with the heady, oceany brine of the shrimp, all while the arugula functioned as a zesty contrast. However, the crux here really was that raw spot prawn, with its sweet-salinity and creamy-yet-crispy mouthfeel offering simultaneous contrasts in taste, texture, and temperature. A success.
The heads from the prawns above were subsequently served deep-fried, and were as tasty as any you might find at your favorite sushi bar.
Black cod bouillabaisse with patty pan squash & turnips [$80.00]
A reimagined version of the most iconic of all Provençal stews was up next, and I think it did a nice job conveying the essence of the traditional dish. The fish itself was gratifyingly textured, its relatively rich, slightly sweet flavors melding well with the tableside finish of bouillon, which I found redolent of both sea and umami. An espelette rouille added a further facet to the soup, and I liked the juxtaposition of the various veggies, with the zippiness of the fennel being particularly key.
Primavera [$21.00] | Gin, snap pea, fennel cordial, chili olive oil, lemon
This was probably my favorite of the libations this evening, which I guess shouldn't be too surprising given my penchant for peas. In fact, this was likely the most pea-forward cocktail I've had, with the petits pois' vegetal sweetness robustly displayed, well-matched by the savoriness of olive oil.
Rack of Lamb 'à la Provençal' with sauce Solferino & carrot purée [$65.00]
The night's final savory was apparently something that the team's been preparing since the Museum days, ostensibly inspired by a dish that Khayami's grandfather used to make. The lamb itself was pretty much spot-on with regard to texture and temperature, and its bold flavors were augmented by the assertiveness of the Solférino sauce, while a constant thread of pungent mustard helped keep everything in check.
Shown above is Muse's dessert menu, as well as the restaurant's selection of after-dinner beverages. Click for larger versions.
Strawberry Tart [$21.00]
I do appreciate a good tart, and what we had here did convey the sweet-tanginess of strawberry in a classic, effective fashion. However, some of the fruit did appear to be bruised, and some of the pastry seemed a tad doughy, unfortunately.
Celeste [$23.00] | Cognac, rye, orange Curaçao, Benedictine, bitters
My final cocktail was to my liking, demonstrating this very noticeable citric quality that tempered the heft of the rye-cognac duo as well as all the bitter, herby notes in the drink.
Vanilla St Honoré [$25.00]
The Saint-Honoré is one of my all-time favorites from French pâtisserie, and tonight's example reminded me of why. I was a big fan of the back-and-forth between the sugary caramel-coated choux puffs and that vanilla crème diplomate, while just as important was the dessert's multilayered base of phyllo. Yum.
A couple quibbles aside, I was generally quite happy with dinner tonight, and had no qualms with service, either. Overall, I like what the team is striving for here. There's a certain elegance to what they're trying to accomplish, and I appreciate how the kitchen's riffing on European classics, imbuing them with a bit of modern Angeleno imagination. As mentioned above, I don't dine in the Palisades much, but it wouldn't surprise me if this were the best place to eat in the area.
108 W Channel Rd, Los Angeles, CA 90402
424-238-5107
www.musesantamonica.com
Sat 06/28/2025, 06:10p-08:30p
I hadn't reported on a Pacific Palisades restaurant since my 2011 meal at Maison Giraud, and given the wildfires that recently devastated the area, I felt that it might be nice to pay the neighborhood a long overdue revisit. My restaurant of choice ended up being Muse, a new-ish modern French spot that opened last August. The place is the creation of Fardad Khayami, a self-taught newcomer to the LA dining scene.
The history: Fardad Ali Mahmoud Khayami was born in July 2000 to a Persian family in London, though he also spent considerable time in the South of France in his younger years. After finishing up his studies at The Harrodian School in 2018, he relocated to Southern California to attend USC's Marshall School of Business, from which he graduated magna cum laude in 2022.
During his time in college, he and roommate David Gelland (BA art history, UCLA) started a dinner series out of their apartment called Museum, with additional support from Taylor Martin and John Stolrow. The pop-up proved to be quite successful, and apparently ended up serving a couple thousand guests, but by the close of 2022, Khayami knew that he needed to open a proper restaurant. After spending the better part of year searching for a location, he eventually stumbled across a building on West Channel Road and got to work, with Muse finally grand-opening on August 16th, 2024.
Joining Khayami in the kitchen is Executive Chef Jason Gonzales, who was most recently opening EC at Juliet in Culver City. Prior to that, he performed R&D for Wish You Were Here group and was CdC at Margot. This was preceded by another Chef de Cuisine position at Cliff's Edge and sous roles at both Union/Knead & Co and Superba Food & Bread. Meanwhile, heading up the sweet side of things is Executive Pastry Chef Nikdad Khayami, Fardad's younger brother, who trained in Paris under noted pâtissier Maxime Frédéric at Cheval Blanc.
Muse resides in an edifice abutting Rustic Canyon that was previously home to Mason Supper Club, Sam's by the Beach, Canyon Bistro, and Louis 4 Seafood. The 35-seat space has been transformed by Marc Ange Design Studio, and it's a rather opulent place to be, seemingly taking inspiration from Parisian Art Deco and 1970s Italy. Note the original artwork on the walls, which will be refreshed periodically (opening artist: Joan Miró), and keep in mind that there's also a 12-seat private dining room as well.
Divvied up into four sections, Muse's menu is relatively compact, and features what seems to be a modern take on French brasserie-ish fare. Drink-wise, you'll find cocktails from Gelland, while the Old World-leaning wine selection is the responsibility of GM/Wine Director Matthew Rogel (Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, Felix, Odys + Penelope, Taberna Arros y Vi, Lazy Ox Canteen). Click for larger versions.
Brioche feuilletée with softened Bordier butter [$16.00]
The meal began with some bread, which was far more interesting than most. I've had a decent amount of brioche in my life, but never one quite like this. I think the key was the use of a détrempe layered with Isigny Sainte-Mère beurre, creating a laminated dough, resulting in a wonderfully tender, buttery, multilayered interior and crisp, almost shattery outsides. It was a superb juxtaposition of textures, and while the Bordier butter on the side was appreciated, it wasn't even necessarily given the flavorsome nature of the bread itself.
Lavande Spritz [$20.00] | Apricot, lavender, sparkling wine
There were only five cocktails on the menu, and not surprisingly, I managed to try all of them. This first one was utterly quaffable and very apropos for the hot weather we've been having, with the lavender's floral, herbal nuances playing nicely with the drink's otherwise sweet, tangy notes.
Tuna tartlets with red pepper gelée & avocado + Top with smoked trout roe [$19.00 + $12.00]
Next was some pretty prototypical tuna tartare, enhanced by the smoky depth of trout roe while those pastry bases worked as crunchy counterpoints.
Veal bonbons with sauce verte [$20.00]
Long-cooked veal ate rich and hearty, its dark-toned flavors joined by a palpable sweetness while a fried brioche exterior mixed things up texturally. Given the heft of the meat, that piquant, herbaceous green sauce was key for balance.
Vesper [$21.00] | Vodka, gin, citrus amaro, vermouth blanco, orange bitters
This cocktail was the booziest of the bunch, but the one-two punch of gin and vodka never got domineering thanks to the drink's sweet, fruity underpinning. Quite nicely integrated.
Cherry tomato tart with herbs de Provence [$28.00]
The tarte aux tomates was undoubtedly a bright, summery dish, one that married tangy tomatoes with a base of savory shallot confit, all while a dollop of ricotta mousse lightened the mood. My gripe here was that I wanted the pastry to be airier, more delicate, more multilayered.
Creste di gallo with basil pesto [$32.00]
Cock's comb pasta was a joy texturally, and took well to the aggressively nutty, herby, savory pesto. Nice crunch from those breadcrumbs, too.
Mirage [$20.00] | Tequila, passionfruit, coconut, lime
This was another easy-going cocktail, one that really highlighted the smooth, sweet, almost creamy character of coconut, set against the tartness of citrus and passion fruit.
Catalana risotto with California spot prawn tartare and arugula purée [$90.00]
I'm not exactly sure what made this a "Catalan" risotto, but whatever it was, it worked. Consistency-wise, the rice was pleasingly firm-ish, and well-imbued with the heady, oceany brine of the shrimp, all while the arugula functioned as a zesty contrast. However, the crux here really was that raw spot prawn, with its sweet-salinity and creamy-yet-crispy mouthfeel offering simultaneous contrasts in taste, texture, and temperature. A success.
The heads from the prawns above were subsequently served deep-fried, and were as tasty as any you might find at your favorite sushi bar.
Black cod bouillabaisse with patty pan squash & turnips [$80.00]
A reimagined version of the most iconic of all Provençal stews was up next, and I think it did a nice job conveying the essence of the traditional dish. The fish itself was gratifyingly textured, its relatively rich, slightly sweet flavors melding well with the tableside finish of bouillon, which I found redolent of both sea and umami. An espelette rouille added a further facet to the soup, and I liked the juxtaposition of the various veggies, with the zippiness of the fennel being particularly key.
Primavera [$21.00] | Gin, snap pea, fennel cordial, chili olive oil, lemon
This was probably my favorite of the libations this evening, which I guess shouldn't be too surprising given my penchant for peas. In fact, this was likely the most pea-forward cocktail I've had, with the petits pois' vegetal sweetness robustly displayed, well-matched by the savoriness of olive oil.
Rack of Lamb 'à la Provençal' with sauce Solferino & carrot purée [$65.00]
The night's final savory was apparently something that the team's been preparing since the Museum days, ostensibly inspired by a dish that Khayami's grandfather used to make. The lamb itself was pretty much spot-on with regard to texture and temperature, and its bold flavors were augmented by the assertiveness of the Solférino sauce, while a constant thread of pungent mustard helped keep everything in check.
Shown above is Muse's dessert menu, as well as the restaurant's selection of after-dinner beverages. Click for larger versions.
Strawberry Tart [$21.00]
I do appreciate a good tart, and what we had here did convey the sweet-tanginess of strawberry in a classic, effective fashion. However, some of the fruit did appear to be bruised, and some of the pastry seemed a tad doughy, unfortunately.
Celeste [$23.00] | Cognac, rye, orange Curaçao, Benedictine, bitters
My final cocktail was to my liking, demonstrating this very noticeable citric quality that tempered the heft of the rye-cognac duo as well as all the bitter, herby notes in the drink.
Vanilla St Honoré [$25.00]
The Saint-Honoré is one of my all-time favorites from French pâtisserie, and tonight's example reminded me of why. I was a big fan of the back-and-forth between the sugary caramel-coated choux puffs and that vanilla crème diplomate, while just as important was the dessert's multilayered base of phyllo. Yum.
A couple quibbles aside, I was generally quite happy with dinner tonight, and had no qualms with service, either. Overall, I like what the team is striving for here. There's a certain elegance to what they're trying to accomplish, and I appreciate how the kitchen's riffing on European classics, imbuing them with a bit of modern Angeleno imagination. As mentioned above, I don't dine in the Palisades much, but it wouldn't surprise me if this were the best place to eat in the area.
posted by kevinEats at
6:10 PM
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