Cento Raw Bar (Los Angeles, CA)
Cento Raw Bar
4919 W Adams Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016
323-795-0330
www.cento.group
Sun 07/13/2025, 07:50p-10:20p
A couple years ago, I reported on Cento Pasta Bar, a buzzy Italian spot in West Adams from Avner Levi (a.k.a. Avner Lavi). I quite enjoyed my dinner there, so when I heard that the Chef was launching a new seafood-focused eatery right next door, my interest was definitely piqued. The aptly-named Cento Raw Bar thus debuted earlier this year on May 12th, and joining Levi here as partners are Adrien D'Attellis, serving as Director of Operations, and Brandon Miradi, who functions as Creative Director.
The restaurant resides in a building that once held the likes of Coleman's Pest Control & Termites, God's First True Witness Missionary Baptist Church, and Dot's Charisma Center (a motley mix). The space has been completely transformed by Miradi, and now sports an aesthetic that's a fusion of fantastical, postmodern, and naturalistic, with an oceanic edge. It's all rather unique, a touch cave-like, and perhaps even a bit transportive, especially with the room's myriad of heavily-textured plastered surfaces. Shown above is the view from my seat at the bar...
...And here's a shot of the dining room, cleared out at the end of the night. Do note that there's a patio out back, too.
Here we see the menu, a tight, terse affair for sure. Beverage-wise, you'll find cocktails along with a handful of wines chosen by D'Attellis. Click for larger versions.
The place setting, replete with a metal-bound menu, certainly fit the theme.
CLASSIC MARTINI [$20.00] | done WITH gin oR vodka
I was able to sample five cocktails this evening, and got things going with a classic-ish gin martini. Having the olives on the side was a bit uncommon, but what actually stood out more was the use of an orange twist in place of the usual lemon twist, which seemed to interact with the gin's botanicals in a different manner than I'm accustomed to.
DEVILED EGGS [$16.00]
As regular readers will know, I'm a sucker for stuffed eggs, so this was a must-order. The eggs were texturally flawless and perfectly seasoned, their pickle-y, celery-like sensations set against a sweet base that recalled caramelized shallot.
FISH DIP [$19.00]
A creamy dip of smoked black cod was perked up by both slivers of almond and a marked citrus character. Accompanying the fish were what seemed to be bagel chips, specifically some super crunchy, aggressively-spiced examples that really did help even out the stronger flavors going on.
PINA COLADA [$20.00] | classic OVER CRUSHED ICE
My second cocktail was what appeared to be a fairly by-the-book example of the iconic piña colada, one with a pretty much spot-on interplay of creamy coconut and tangy pineapple. I was quite a fan of the postmodern-style glassware utilized here, too. Do note that this drink wasn't included on the bill, which I'm assuming was a mistake.
HALIBUT CRUDO [$26.00]
Here we have one of the evening's specials, which I'm glad I ordered. The halibut showed off a soft-but-satisfying consistency, and I loved how it played with the duo of an herby salsa verde and dices of sweet-tart stone fruit. I also enjoyed the tinge of heat in the dish, and I think I even detected passion fruit in there.
LOBSTER MELT [$23.00]
A slider-sized melt sandwich featured shards of lobster commingled with a bevy of fresh, creamy, herby elements, the whole thing moderated by that sweet-ish bun. It was a tasty amalgamation to be sure, though my complaint was that the cheese was too muted, and not nearly "melty" enough.
AQUA [$19.00] | vodka & blue curaçao WITH LUXARDO
I was a bit apprehensive about this next drink, given that the pairing of blue curaçao and vodka didn't sound particularly appealing. Nevertheless, I was curious. That vodka-curaçao combo ended up being rather nostalgic, taking me back to the homebrewed cocktails of my college years, and the whole thing was enhanced by the incorporation of the Luxardo liqueur. So a bit better than I expected overall.
BEEF TARTARE [$26.00]
I have a hard time not ordering beef tartar if I see it on a menu, and I'm happy I did tonight, since this managed to be a standout. The crux here really was the beautiful interaction between the sweet, umami-laden flavors of the meat, the dish's herbaceous notes, some nutty-crunchy bits, and the traces of funky heat present. It was a delicious union that made me think Thai, and was well-tempered by the accompanying little gem lettuce.
HAMACHI CRUDO [$24.00]
Next came a complimentary serving of yellowtail crudo that turned out to be another favorite of mine. I loved the back-and-forth between the fatty, briny qualities of the fish and the dish's super piquant marinade. However, what was even better was the inclusion of fresh cherries, which imparted a tart-sweetness that did a wonderful job tying together the various elements on the plate.
COLD RUSH [$18.00] | bourbon & lemon WITH MAPLE HONEY
My fourth cocktail was a take on the Gold Rush, a "modern classic" reportedly invented at NYC's Milk & Honey back in the early aughts. As expected, the marriage of whiskey and citrus was what I was looking for, but the use of maple honey seemed to give the drink a much thicker mouthfeel and a much sugarier underpinning, which I didn't mind.
SPECK [$19.00]
Thin-cut slices of dry-cured ham ate as fatty and flavorful and salty as I was hoping for, all while displaying this zingy, almost botanical spice.
CAVIAR SLIDER [$61.00]
In this somewhat ridiculous version of a slider, a healthy dollop of caviar had its salinity well-matched by a plethora of bright, fresh, creamy notes as well as that sweet, soft bread. It was a fun, gratifying combination, no doubt, but my gripe here was that the roe tended to spurt out from the bun while I was eating, making this whole thing a bit messier than I would've liked.
TEQUILA HORCHATA CARAJILLO
For my final drink, I asked for an off-menu cocktail that wouldn't interfere with my desserts, and was given this concoction gratis. It was an effective mash-up of a carajillo and horchata, with the latter's sweet spices melding just swimmingly with the former's coffee notes.
CHOCOLATE CAKE [$16.00]
My first dessert ended up being comped, and curiously enough, was rather reminiscent of the Hostess CupCakes of my childhood, right down to the texture and creme filling, which wasn't necessarily a bad thing.
MOSAIC CHEESECAKE [$18.00]
More intriguing was the mosaic cheesecake, which, in addition to being a visual treat, showcased a deft mix of fruity and floral flavors and boasted a rather fetching graham cracker crust to boot.
Even though this place is still in its early days, I have to deem Cento Raw Bar largely a success. Certainly, the restaurant delivers in terms of its aesthetics, but the food is worth talking about as well. A lot of dedicated seafood spots in LA tend to take on more of an East Coast inspiration, but that's not the case here, since Levi seems to be blending his own cooking style with a bit of an Angeleno approach and a splash of whimsy. It's a confluence that mostly works for me, so I'll be looking forward to seeing where the Chef goes from here.
4919 W Adams Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016
323-795-0330
www.cento.group
Sun 07/13/2025, 07:50p-10:20p
A couple years ago, I reported on Cento Pasta Bar, a buzzy Italian spot in West Adams from Avner Levi (a.k.a. Avner Lavi). I quite enjoyed my dinner there, so when I heard that the Chef was launching a new seafood-focused eatery right next door, my interest was definitely piqued. The aptly-named Cento Raw Bar thus debuted earlier this year on May 12th, and joining Levi here as partners are Adrien D'Attellis, serving as Director of Operations, and Brandon Miradi, who functions as Creative Director.
The restaurant resides in a building that once held the likes of Coleman's Pest Control & Termites, God's First True Witness Missionary Baptist Church, and Dot's Charisma Center (a motley mix). The space has been completely transformed by Miradi, and now sports an aesthetic that's a fusion of fantastical, postmodern, and naturalistic, with an oceanic edge. It's all rather unique, a touch cave-like, and perhaps even a bit transportive, especially with the room's myriad of heavily-textured plastered surfaces. Shown above is the view from my seat at the bar...
...And here's a shot of the dining room, cleared out at the end of the night. Do note that there's a patio out back, too.
Here we see the menu, a tight, terse affair for sure. Beverage-wise, you'll find cocktails along with a handful of wines chosen by D'Attellis. Click for larger versions.
The place setting, replete with a metal-bound menu, certainly fit the theme.
CLASSIC MARTINI [$20.00] | done WITH gin oR vodka
I was able to sample five cocktails this evening, and got things going with a classic-ish gin martini. Having the olives on the side was a bit uncommon, but what actually stood out more was the use of an orange twist in place of the usual lemon twist, which seemed to interact with the gin's botanicals in a different manner than I'm accustomed to.
DEVILED EGGS [$16.00]
As regular readers will know, I'm a sucker for stuffed eggs, so this was a must-order. The eggs were texturally flawless and perfectly seasoned, their pickle-y, celery-like sensations set against a sweet base that recalled caramelized shallot.
FISH DIP [$19.00]
A creamy dip of smoked black cod was perked up by both slivers of almond and a marked citrus character. Accompanying the fish were what seemed to be bagel chips, specifically some super crunchy, aggressively-spiced examples that really did help even out the stronger flavors going on.
PINA COLADA [$20.00] | classic OVER CRUSHED ICE
My second cocktail was what appeared to be a fairly by-the-book example of the iconic piña colada, one with a pretty much spot-on interplay of creamy coconut and tangy pineapple. I was quite a fan of the postmodern-style glassware utilized here, too. Do note that this drink wasn't included on the bill, which I'm assuming was a mistake.
HALIBUT CRUDO [$26.00]
Here we have one of the evening's specials, which I'm glad I ordered. The halibut showed off a soft-but-satisfying consistency, and I loved how it played with the duo of an herby salsa verde and dices of sweet-tart stone fruit. I also enjoyed the tinge of heat in the dish, and I think I even detected passion fruit in there.
LOBSTER MELT [$23.00]
A slider-sized melt sandwich featured shards of lobster commingled with a bevy of fresh, creamy, herby elements, the whole thing moderated by that sweet-ish bun. It was a tasty amalgamation to be sure, though my complaint was that the cheese was too muted, and not nearly "melty" enough.
AQUA [$19.00] | vodka & blue curaçao WITH LUXARDO
I was a bit apprehensive about this next drink, given that the pairing of blue curaçao and vodka didn't sound particularly appealing. Nevertheless, I was curious. That vodka-curaçao combo ended up being rather nostalgic, taking me back to the homebrewed cocktails of my college years, and the whole thing was enhanced by the incorporation of the Luxardo liqueur. So a bit better than I expected overall.
BEEF TARTARE [$26.00]
I have a hard time not ordering beef tartar if I see it on a menu, and I'm happy I did tonight, since this managed to be a standout. The crux here really was the beautiful interaction between the sweet, umami-laden flavors of the meat, the dish's herbaceous notes, some nutty-crunchy bits, and the traces of funky heat present. It was a delicious union that made me think Thai, and was well-tempered by the accompanying little gem lettuce.
HAMACHI CRUDO [$24.00]
Next came a complimentary serving of yellowtail crudo that turned out to be another favorite of mine. I loved the back-and-forth between the fatty, briny qualities of the fish and the dish's super piquant marinade. However, what was even better was the inclusion of fresh cherries, which imparted a tart-sweetness that did a wonderful job tying together the various elements on the plate.
COLD RUSH [$18.00] | bourbon & lemon WITH MAPLE HONEY
My fourth cocktail was a take on the Gold Rush, a "modern classic" reportedly invented at NYC's Milk & Honey back in the early aughts. As expected, the marriage of whiskey and citrus was what I was looking for, but the use of maple honey seemed to give the drink a much thicker mouthfeel and a much sugarier underpinning, which I didn't mind.
SPECK [$19.00]
Thin-cut slices of dry-cured ham ate as fatty and flavorful and salty as I was hoping for, all while displaying this zingy, almost botanical spice.
CAVIAR SLIDER [$61.00]
In this somewhat ridiculous version of a slider, a healthy dollop of caviar had its salinity well-matched by a plethora of bright, fresh, creamy notes as well as that sweet, soft bread. It was a fun, gratifying combination, no doubt, but my gripe here was that the roe tended to spurt out from the bun while I was eating, making this whole thing a bit messier than I would've liked.
TEQUILA HORCHATA CARAJILLO
For my final drink, I asked for an off-menu cocktail that wouldn't interfere with my desserts, and was given this concoction gratis. It was an effective mash-up of a carajillo and horchata, with the latter's sweet spices melding just swimmingly with the former's coffee notes.
CHOCOLATE CAKE [$16.00]
My first dessert ended up being comped, and curiously enough, was rather reminiscent of the Hostess CupCakes of my childhood, right down to the texture and creme filling, which wasn't necessarily a bad thing.
MOSAIC CHEESECAKE [$18.00]
More intriguing was the mosaic cheesecake, which, in addition to being a visual treat, showcased a deft mix of fruity and floral flavors and boasted a rather fetching graham cracker crust to boot.
Even though this place is still in its early days, I have to deem Cento Raw Bar largely a success. Certainly, the restaurant delivers in terms of its aesthetics, but the food is worth talking about as well. A lot of dedicated seafood spots in LA tend to take on more of an East Coast inspiration, but that's not the case here, since Levi seems to be blending his own cooking style with a bit of an Angeleno approach and a splash of whimsy. It's a confluence that mostly works for me, so I'll be looking forward to seeing where the Chef goes from here.
posted by kevinEats at
7:50 PM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]
<< Home