Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Iki Yakitori (Los Angeles, CA)

Yakitori Omakase at Iki Ramen + Sushi
6565 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90028
213-512-9552
www.ikiramen.com
Tue 08/11/2026, 08:00p-12:00a




Iki Ramen + Sushi

Regular readers of this blog might know that I have a bit of a soft spot for yakitori, and thus, new yakitori contenders do tend to capture my interest. One potential new entrant to the space is Iki Yakitori, a Tuesdays-only pop-up that began life on August 4th. It's set inside Iki Ramen + Sushi in Hollywood, part of Jeffry Undiarto's Iki Hospitality group (which takes its name from the kanji character 粋, meaning "stylish"). Meanwhile, manning the binchotan grill is Chef Kyota Morita, who boasts experience at Kinjiro, Rossoblu, Torigoya, and Kokekokko.

The history of Iki: It all begins with Undiarto, born in May 1987 and hailing from Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia. His mother ran a restaurant, so he grew up surrounded by the industry even before deciding to pursue a career in hospitality. He made the leap to immigrate to the United States in 2005, eventually training in Japanese cuisine at the likes of Hakata in Santa Monica, Mori Sushi in Sawtelle, SHU Sushi House Unico in Beverly Crest, and Yojisan Sushi in Beverly Hills. Then, in 2013, Undiarto started working at n/naka, where he served as GM-slash-Wine Director.

Now more established in his career, he made the key decision to begin conceptualizing and building out his own restaurants. He joined forces with high school friend Sabastian Karyadi (also a Mori alum) and opened Ramen Nagomi in New Brunswick, NJ in April 2016, with further locations arriving in Freehold (July 2021), Quakerbridge (November 2022), and Easton Avenue (January 2024). New Jersey efforts have also included Poke Nagomi in New Brunswick (May 2018, now closed) and two locations of the more downmarket Ramen Stop by Nagomi, one in New Brunswick (August 2019, now closed) and one in Princeton (November 2019, now closed). In addition, there's Butterfish Sushi in Rutherford (November 2024) and Handroll House in East Rutherford (March 2026).

Back in LA, Undiarto partnered with brother-in-law and fellow Denpasarese Juliady Juliady (a.k.a. Andy Juliady, head of Premier Choice Seafood Inc) and Chef Hiroyuki Masato (ex-Sushi Mac) to launch PokeTendo in DTLA in January 2017, though the place only lasted until June 2018. This was followed by a takeover of Asakuma Sushi & Poke in Sawtelle in the spring of 2017. More importantly, in December 2018, Undiarto teamed up with Karyadi, Juliady, and Chef Masato to debut Iki Ramen, situated in a Koreatown storefront that was once home to the likes of Delhi Bites, Little Tart, and Saint Martha. During the pandemic, Undiarto and his sister Jennifer Undiarto started Warung Bali, a short-lived Balinese pre-order/pick-up concept.

Crucially, Undiarto left n/naka in 2022, which freed up a lot of time and allowed him to launch even more ventures. The Hollywood location of Iki Ramen that's hosting this pop-up bowed in February 2023, set on the ground floor of a 1967-era office building, inside a space previously occupied by the SAE Institute. This was followed by hand roll slanger Iki Nori in March 2024, located just up the street. Other restaurants in the portfolio include Akami Sushi in Arcadia (April 2024) and Toluca Lake (June 2026), as well as Padi (February 2026), an Indonesian eatery in the same structure as Iki Nori.

Iki Yakitori Menu
Here we see tonight's menu, priced at $98 a head, with optional supplements available, though my bill ended up being taken care of. Click for a larger version.

Chef's Choice Sashimi
1: Chef's Choice Sashimi | A bright, clean opening course
First to arrive were clean cuts of kanpachi, set against tart tomatoes and the zing of what seemed like chili crisp. Also crucial were the herbs, which really brightened up the dish. My quibble: I would've liked riper tomatoes.

Onsen Tamago
2: Onsen Tamago | Slow-poached egg in a smoked cream sauce
A low-n-slow-poached egg came out ultra-lush and runny, imbued with a sharp, pervasive smoke.

2006 Valdicava Madonna del Piano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
To drink, I brought a couple bottles from my twentieth anniversary stash, and up first was the 2006 Valdicava Madonna del Piano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. The single-vineyard Sangiovese comes to us from one of Tuscany's most noted producers, one founded in 1953 by Martini Bramante Abbruzzese and run, since 1987, by his grandson Vincenzo Abbruzzese. Initial whiffs brought dark berries, smoke, and a funky sort of rusticity, while palate-wise, I found plenty of structure, more of those dark stewed fruit flavors, and distinct vegetal quality bringing up the rear. With some time, aromas became more mineral-driven, more purple in nature; in the mouth: silkier, spicier, with further nuances of smoke and leather. A solid showing all in all--I could see the wine remaining at this level for the next decade or so.

Chicken Breast
3: Chicken Breast | Grilled and finished with ginger sauce
It was now time for the skewer section of dinner to begin. Sasami was cooked on the rarer side, which is what I prefer, as doing so provides a silker, more luscious consistency. The mildly-seasoned meat was well-accompanied by the unmistakable sting of ginger, making for one of the better breasts I've had.

Quail Eggs
4: Quail Eggs | Glazed in our spicy sauce
Uzura were a delight texturally, offering a bit of "pop" alongside creamy interiors, while taste-wise, they had a lovely smoke and savor to 'em.

Chicken Thigh
5: Chicken Thigh | Lacquered in our signature yakitori tare
The momo was pretty textbook, coming out tender, succulent, and imbued with a good amount of both sear and sweetness. Nice counterpoint from the onion, too.

Zucchini
6: Zucchini | Charcoal-kissed, salt and pepper
Our lone veggie skewer, the zucchini had the juiciness I was looking for, as well as a healthy dosing of char.

Mazemen Ramen with Mentaiko Blue Prawn
7: Mazemen Ramen with Mentaiko Blue Prawn
A brothless ramen was up next. The noodles themselves were satisfyingly textured, as was the shrimp, while the dish featured an underlying heat that was certainly noticeable, but never got in the way.

Chicken Liver
8: Chicken Liver
Reba was served rare, a relatively uncommon sight around these parts. This made for a supple, more luxurious mouthfeel, while the offal's headier flavors were offset by the heat of wasabi.

2006 Abreu Vineyards Madrona Ranch
The night's second bottle was the 2006 Abreu Vineyards Madrona Ranch, a Bordeaux-style blend from a producer started by well-respected Napa Valley viticulturist David Abreu. The wine saw its first commercially-released vintage in 1987 as a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, but the '06 we had here was comprised of 55% Cab Sauv, 40% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Dense nose reminiscent of black cherry and black currant, commingled with chocolate. On the palate, I got soft tannins, cacao, coffee, olives, and plenty more of those lush dark fruit notes. Nicely developed so far, with seemingly a good amount of life left in it.

Chicken Meatball
9: Chicken Meatball | Simply seasoned with salt
Obviously, we had to try the tsukune. The meatball demonstrated a somewhat gritty, gratifying texture, and was delicately seasoned with just a smidgen of salt.

Special Thigh
10: Aka Momo | deep-red thigh
Accompanied by yuzu, this was a special portion of thigh, one that boasted somewhat deeper, more savory flavors compared to the momo above.

Soriresu
11: Soriresu | chicken oyster
Chicken oyster is no doubt one of my favorite parts for yakitori, and it didn't disappoint me tonight thanks to its wonderfully plump, meaty texture and richer flavors, amped up even further by those bits of skin.

Wagyu Zabuton + Uni
12: Wagyu Zabuton + Uni | Seared zabuton crowned with uni and miso sauce
Chunks of Denver steak certainly delivered, taking well to the extra umami proffered by the miso. I didn't mind the sea urchin either, though it wasn't strictly necessary.

Yuzu Shio Ramen
13: Yuzu Shio Ramen | Bright citrus broth with charcoal-grilled chicken
A small bowl of ramen made for a fitting close to the savory portion of our dinner. I appreciated the touch of citrus incorporated into the broth, while the texture of the noodles was to my liking as well. The actual chicken was also on point, with its hearty flavors and nice kiss of smoke, and I had no complaints with that boiled egg, either.

House-Made Dessert
14: House-Made Dessert | A delicate finish
Dessert duties were handled by a monaka, one of my favorite wagashi, with its crisp, airy wafers and sweet filling.

Despite this being a pop-up, the kitchen delivered a commendable meal tonight, one that compares pretty favorably to some of the top yakitori-ya in the Southland. I feel like there's a lot of promise here, so what I'd like to see is Iki Yakitori branch off and become its own separate thing, with Morita-san at the helm. Given how long the Chef has been in the game, it's about time he had a restaurant to call his own.

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