Smyth (Chicago, IL)
Smyth Restaurant
177 N Ada St, Chicago, IL 60607
773-913-3773
www.smythchicago.com
Wed 08/19/2026, 07:50p-10:15p
The choice for my third dinner in Chicago was an easy one. Back in the late 2000s, I was super curious about what was going on at Town House restaurant in rural Virginia, which was run by the husband-and-wife team of Chef John B. Shields (not to be confused with the Chesapeake Bay cooking John Shields) and Pastry Chef Karen Shields. I found their singular interpretation of regional American cuisine deeply fascinating, so when the duo opened their follow-up restaurant Smyth in August 2016, my interest was immediately piqued. Thus, I simply had to pay the place a visit on this recent trip.
About the Chefs: John Brendon Shields was born in January 1977 and grew up in Clearwater, Florida, where his father spurred his initial interest in cooking. After graduating from Clearwater High School in 1995, he enrolled in the culinary arts program at St. Louis Community College–Forest Park, completing his studies in 1997. Following, he worked locally in the STL before moving back to the Sunshine State for a line cook position at Brian Wellman's Grand Finale in St. Petersburg.
Shields eventually became head chef there, but the restaurant ended up shuttering in April 2003. At this point, he relocated to Chi-town and secured a gig at the iconic Charlie Trotter's. Serving under Matthias Merges, he started off as a chef de partie, but within his two-year stint there, rose to the rank of sous. It was also at Trotter's where Shields would meet his future partner in both business and life.
Karen Urie-Shields (a.k.a. Karen Anne Urie) was born in June 1978 and hails from the Northeast. She attended Unionville High School in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania, and after graduating in 1996, made her way to Johnson & Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island, completing her culinary degree in 2000. Following, she became pastry sous at Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand's TRU in Chicago. In 2003, Urie-Shields transitioned over to Charlie Trotter's, where she would stay for five years, eventually lead the pastry team, and meet her future partner.
Shields decamped from Trotter's in 2005 to join the opening team at Alinea, where he cooked under none other than CdC Curtis Duffy. After two years as sous, he went back to working for Chef Trotter, as he and Urie-Shields both took part in pre-opening activities for Restaurant Charlie in Las Vegas. Located at The Palazzo, the spot would debut in May 2008, but without the pair, as by that point, they had decided to leave and strike out on their own.
The two were subsequently recruited by the wife-and-husband team of Kyra Bishop and Tom Bishop to reimagine their eatery Town House Grill. Located in the tiny town of Chilhowie, Virginia, Town House was opened by the Bishops in 2002 as a straightforward steak/seafood spot, but by the time the Shields were done with it, it'd been transformed into one of the most electrifying restaurants in the country. The place received considerable acclaim for its creative, locally-informed take on modern American cuisine, but despite the accolades, Town House shut down in February 2012.
Following the closure, the now-married couple (they wed in July 2009) considered opening a restaurant in the DC area, but that never came to fruition. Instead, in June 2014, the Chefs launched a dinner series at Riverstead Inn, a bed-and-breakfast in Chilhowie that once provided overnight accommodations for Town House guests. The venture lasted until April 2015, and following, the Shields ended up moving back to the Windy City to start work on their next project.
This, of course, brings us to Smyth, named after the Virginia county that Chilhowie was located in, and The Loyalist, a more casual gastropub-y concept situated in the same Near West Side building. Created in partnership with Keith Shapiro, the two complementary restaurants debuted within a month of each other in the summer of 2016. Smyth was particularly well-received, earning a Michelin star that November, just two months after opening. This was improved to two stars in October 2017, and three stars in November 2023 (which have been retained ever since).
Furthermore, in terms of James Beard recognition, we're talking 2017 Best New Restaurant semifinalist, 2020 Best Chefs in America Great Lakes nominee, 2022 Best Chefs in America Great Lakes nominee, 2023 Outstanding Restaurant semifinalist, and 2024 Outstanding Chef semifinalist. Smyth was also #1 on the North America's 50 Best Restaurants 2026 list, after being placed at #4 in the inaugural 2025 ranking, as well as #90 on The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2024.
Once you make your way into the West Loop edifice, head down for The Loyalist or up for Smyth.
Suite #101 is a cozy-yet-contemporary space, with its exposed brick and abundant swathes of natural wood, not to mention that very open kitchen.
Smyth's menu options included the standard offering at $420 or the enhanced Chef's Menu at $550 (my pick, natch), both non-inclusive of beverage/tax/gratuity, and with a $100 deposit required. Do note, though, that beginning on November 5th this year, the restaurant will be moving to a single menu option at either $425 (Tuesday to Wednesday) or $475 (Thursday to Saturday), with prepayment required. Beverage-wise, there was the Smyth pairing at $245 or the Reserve pairing at $475, and of course, diners can also choose from a pretty extensive, French-leaning wine list managed by Wine Director Louis Fabbrini. Meanwhile, the corkage fee is $100 a bottle, limit one per every two guests. Click for a larger version.
1: Watermelon Kombucha
Quick to arrive was my welcome beverage: watermelon juice steeped overnight with white tea and opal basil, rounded out with a kombucha made from the same tea. The concoction effectively demonstrated the fresh, fruity qualities of the melon, but with slightly vegetal, funky undertones.
2a: Truffle & Buttercream Tart
A canapé course comprised a seaweed tart made from dulse and fermented tomato, layered with savory citrus buttercream, shaved Australian black truffle, a fermented tomato tuile, and a finish of red ogo seaweed. This all made for an intriguing bite, one with a healthy dosing of sweetness and umami and crunch leading to a finish redolent of musky truffle.
2b: Sweet Corn & Masa
Sweet corn juice was aerated and frozen, dressed with masa miso paste, and sandwiched between two fermented sweet corn tuiles. What struck me first was how impossibly airy the corn "cloud" was. And yet, despite its lightness, the concentrated sweet-n-savory essence of maíz was so clearly, so deeply conveyed. I was a big fan of the contrast in temperatures and textures here, too.
To imbibe, I'd brought along a bottle of the 1999 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, which comes to us from a well-regarded, but somewhat under-the-radar producer based in Morey-Saint-Denis that started bottling under its own name in the 1950s.
3a: Tomato Tofu & Tamarillo
A sort of reimagined tofu displayed both the tanginess of tomato and the savoriness of soy in spades. Accoutrements included tamarillo fruit, burnt basil oil, and crucially, the simultaneously bitter-floral nature of all those edible flowers. It all came together rather cleverly.
3b: Dungeness Crab "Tamago"
Next came what was essentially a riff on the classic Japanese chawanmushi. The egg custard was as silky as I was hoping for, and was well-imbued with this sweet-n-spicy character that meshed surprisingly seamlessly with the wonderfully smoky-sweet-saline Dungeness. At the same time, a sprinkling of fresh marigolds from the garden made for a vegetal, astringent accent piece.
4: Smoked Lobster & Peach Aguachile
Anchored by shards of Maine lobster as well as more ogo, this new wave aguachile expressed the essence of the sea in a beguilingly multifaceted manner. The floral-fruity nature of peach paired unexpectedly easily with all those oceany flavors going on, and I much appreciated the additional kick from both huacatay and coriander flower.
5: Caviar & Marcona Almond
N25 kaluga caviar was plated alongside a gently-set lobster custard topped with Marcona almond milk and roasted almond oil, then joined by salt brine-preserved Californian green almonds and umeboshi, with a finish of hazelnut oil and fermented barley reduction. This was a favorite of mine. I was pretty enamored with how the salty-sticky-nutty qualities of the caviar played with the nutty, grain-y elements in the dish, all supported by tangy, vegetal nuances and lingering umami.
I was then shown rainbow trout (and roe) sourced from New Castle, VA-based purveyor Smoke in Chimneys, to be used in the next two courses.
6a: Smoked Trout Donut
Trout was wrapped in seaweed, smoked in the restaurant's hearth, combined with pastry cream and mustard greens, enclosed in a beignet-style dough, and garnished with grated dehydrated trout roe. The "doughnut" made for a pretty marvelous bite, the smoky-sweetness of the fish melding effortlessly with this delightful tāngyuán-esque character, pinpricks of salt, and a marked piquancy on the finish.
As the donut above was treated as finger food, a wetted hand towel was provided.
6b: Rainbow Trout & Blueberry Ponzu
In our second preparation of trout, the fish was poached low-and-slow in kombu butter and accompanied by a gel of charred spring onion, the actual spring onion, a high-acid blueberry ponzu incorporating summer herbs muddled with citrus, a saffron-boosted sabayon, saffron salt, and fennel fronds. This all made for a presentation of trout unlike any I'd ever experienced. The fish itself ate cool and fatty and luscious, and was smartly complemented by a bevy of herbaceous, vegetal, and astringent flavors, moderated just enough by the creaminess of that sabayon.
7: Abalone & Boudin Noir
Monterey Bay abalone was gently poached in a mushroom dashi bolstered with veal stock (thus upping the viscosity) before being grilled. Blood sausage was tucked in underneath, maitake was draped over the top, and a condiment was made from the gastropod's innards. And to finish, we had a sauce incorporating the abalone's cooking liquid, sea grapes, velvet horn seaweed, sea lettuce, fresh citrus, kombu oil, and brown butter. The end result was what must surely be one of the alluring abalone dishes I've had. The brine and umami I expected were both there, duly enhanced by the depth of kimo, but I was quite captivated by the sheer "meatiness" of it all. Some nice textural variation going on here to boot.
8: Sweetbreads & Goat Butter
I'm a bit of a sucker for fried sweetbread, so I was definitely glad to see this next dish on the menu. The offal was pretty much flawless in terms of breading and frying, and curiously, reminded me of McNuggets, but in the best way possible. Utterly savory and satisfying, the fritter linked up perfectly with the almost Thai-like sting from all those rooftop garden-sourced herbs and botanicals, all while fermented peanut milk helped tie it all together.
9: Lone Mountain Wagyu Beef Tartare
Tangy dices of New Mexico-raised full-blood wagyu were placed in a savory, shattery sea lettuce tart shell. Pops of citrus helped lighten the mood, as did the bitter-floral qualities of those flowers. A fun one-biter before my "main course."
10a: Black Walnut Cured Quail Egg
Quail egg was cured in black walnut and honey, making for more fascinating flavors than most, while its textural "pop" was still there. Companions were a super savory quail gelée, chive oil, and an earthy slice of preserved Périgord truffle. Note also the quail egg-themed dishware utilized.
10b: Devil's Gulch Squab & Malted Milk Bread
Hearth-smoked squab ate as tender and tasty and succulent as I was hoping for, and while the bird was delicious alone, it was even better when taken with the nutty, familiar sweetness of a house-grown grain porridge (amaranth and buckwheat I believe). A chanterelle nage added further oomph to the dish, while the mintiness of shiso leaf provided a bit of lift. Accompanying the squab was the glossiest piece of bread I'd ever seen: an airy shokupan made in the style of brioche, loaded with a salty-sweetness that actually reminded me of yóutiáo.
Given the very hands-on nature of the milk bread above, another moistened hand towel proved quite necessary.
11: Melon & Wheatgrass
A refreshingly fruity summer melon granita was matched with the saltier, savorier qualities of squash and squash seeds, then surrounded by bright, grassy drizzles of wheatgrass, making for both an apt palate cleanser and a fitting transition from savory to sweet.
12: Fennel Ice Cream Bar
A wondrously sweet, zingy, milky fennel ice cream was united with a fruit compote, then encased in a white chocolate shell brushed with poppy seed purée and dusted with flakes of salt. Very neat, and undoubtedly one of the best uses of fennel I've ever witnessed.
13a: Preserved Pistachio Tart
13b: Chanterelle & Red Fruit
Next came a petit four duo. I began with the one on the left: a roasted seaweed tart with sansho(?) praline and green tea custard, topped with a green tea tuile. I enjoyed the bite's grain-y sort of sweetness and crunch, and I was also somehow reminded of breakfast cereal. We also had a summer chanterelle tart with a potato tuile and candied enokis, and with this one, I found an almost tomato-y tang joined by a lactic sensation and plenty of crunch.
13c: Cadbury™ Quail Egg
Interestingly, this homage to the Cadbury Creme Egg was actually a callback to the quail dish above. Set in sprouted wheatgrass was quail egg caramel and tart citrus, stuffed into a painted candied shell that showed off a rather aggressive crunch.
A final wet hand towel for the mignardises.
Last up was a sugary sea lettuce caramel that exhibited a nearly truffle-like funk, which I did not mind at all.
The team at Smyth did a bang-up job tonight, really delivering in terms of both food and service. The cooking is quite unlike anything else I've experienced, highlighting taste and technique in thoughtful, nuanced, and exciting dishes that blend the familiar with the bemusing. Smyth goes a long way in defining and redefining what contemporary American cuisine can be--I can see why the place scored three-stars.
177 N Ada St, Chicago, IL 60607
773-913-3773
www.smythchicago.com
Wed 08/19/2026, 07:50p-10:15p
The choice for my third dinner in Chicago was an easy one. Back in the late 2000s, I was super curious about what was going on at Town House restaurant in rural Virginia, which was run by the husband-and-wife team of Chef John B. Shields (not to be confused with the Chesapeake Bay cooking John Shields) and Pastry Chef Karen Shields. I found their singular interpretation of regional American cuisine deeply fascinating, so when the duo opened their follow-up restaurant Smyth in August 2016, my interest was immediately piqued. Thus, I simply had to pay the place a visit on this recent trip.
About the Chefs: John Brendon Shields was born in January 1977 and grew up in Clearwater, Florida, where his father spurred his initial interest in cooking. After graduating from Clearwater High School in 1995, he enrolled in the culinary arts program at St. Louis Community College–Forest Park, completing his studies in 1997. Following, he worked locally in the STL before moving back to the Sunshine State for a line cook position at Brian Wellman's Grand Finale in St. Petersburg.
Shields eventually became head chef there, but the restaurant ended up shuttering in April 2003. At this point, he relocated to Chi-town and secured a gig at the iconic Charlie Trotter's. Serving under Matthias Merges, he started off as a chef de partie, but within his two-year stint there, rose to the rank of sous. It was also at Trotter's where Shields would meet his future partner in both business and life.
Karen Urie-Shields (a.k.a. Karen Anne Urie) was born in June 1978 and hails from the Northeast. She attended Unionville High School in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania, and after graduating in 1996, made her way to Johnson & Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island, completing her culinary degree in 2000. Following, she became pastry sous at Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand's TRU in Chicago. In 2003, Urie-Shields transitioned over to Charlie Trotter's, where she would stay for five years, eventually lead the pastry team, and meet her future partner.
Shields decamped from Trotter's in 2005 to join the opening team at Alinea, where he cooked under none other than CdC Curtis Duffy. After two years as sous, he went back to working for Chef Trotter, as he and Urie-Shields both took part in pre-opening activities for Restaurant Charlie in Las Vegas. Located at The Palazzo, the spot would debut in May 2008, but without the pair, as by that point, they had decided to leave and strike out on their own.
The two were subsequently recruited by the wife-and-husband team of Kyra Bishop and Tom Bishop to reimagine their eatery Town House Grill. Located in the tiny town of Chilhowie, Virginia, Town House was opened by the Bishops in 2002 as a straightforward steak/seafood spot, but by the time the Shields were done with it, it'd been transformed into one of the most electrifying restaurants in the country. The place received considerable acclaim for its creative, locally-informed take on modern American cuisine, but despite the accolades, Town House shut down in February 2012.
Following the closure, the now-married couple (they wed in July 2009) considered opening a restaurant in the DC area, but that never came to fruition. Instead, in June 2014, the Chefs launched a dinner series at Riverstead Inn, a bed-and-breakfast in Chilhowie that once provided overnight accommodations for Town House guests. The venture lasted until April 2015, and following, the Shields ended up moving back to the Windy City to start work on their next project.
This, of course, brings us to Smyth, named after the Virginia county that Chilhowie was located in, and The Loyalist, a more casual gastropub-y concept situated in the same Near West Side building. Created in partnership with Keith Shapiro, the two complementary restaurants debuted within a month of each other in the summer of 2016. Smyth was particularly well-received, earning a Michelin star that November, just two months after opening. This was improved to two stars in October 2017, and three stars in November 2023 (which have been retained ever since).
Furthermore, in terms of James Beard recognition, we're talking 2017 Best New Restaurant semifinalist, 2020 Best Chefs in America Great Lakes nominee, 2022 Best Chefs in America Great Lakes nominee, 2023 Outstanding Restaurant semifinalist, and 2024 Outstanding Chef semifinalist. Smyth was also #1 on the North America's 50 Best Restaurants 2026 list, after being placed at #4 in the inaugural 2025 ranking, as well as #90 on The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2024.
Once you make your way into the West Loop edifice, head down for The Loyalist or up for Smyth.
Suite #101 is a cozy-yet-contemporary space, with its exposed brick and abundant swathes of natural wood, not to mention that very open kitchen.
Smyth's menu options included the standard offering at $420 or the enhanced Chef's Menu at $550 (my pick, natch), both non-inclusive of beverage/tax/gratuity, and with a $100 deposit required. Do note, though, that beginning on November 5th this year, the restaurant will be moving to a single menu option at either $425 (Tuesday to Wednesday) or $475 (Thursday to Saturday), with prepayment required. Beverage-wise, there was the Smyth pairing at $245 or the Reserve pairing at $475, and of course, diners can also choose from a pretty extensive, French-leaning wine list managed by Wine Director Louis Fabbrini. Meanwhile, the corkage fee is $100 a bottle, limit one per every two guests. Click for a larger version.
1: Watermelon Kombucha
Quick to arrive was my welcome beverage: watermelon juice steeped overnight with white tea and opal basil, rounded out with a kombucha made from the same tea. The concoction effectively demonstrated the fresh, fruity qualities of the melon, but with slightly vegetal, funky undertones.
2a: Truffle & Buttercream Tart
A canapé course comprised a seaweed tart made from dulse and fermented tomato, layered with savory citrus buttercream, shaved Australian black truffle, a fermented tomato tuile, and a finish of red ogo seaweed. This all made for an intriguing bite, one with a healthy dosing of sweetness and umami and crunch leading to a finish redolent of musky truffle.
2b: Sweet Corn & Masa
Sweet corn juice was aerated and frozen, dressed with masa miso paste, and sandwiched between two fermented sweet corn tuiles. What struck me first was how impossibly airy the corn "cloud" was. And yet, despite its lightness, the concentrated sweet-n-savory essence of maíz was so clearly, so deeply conveyed. I was a big fan of the contrast in temperatures and textures here, too.
To imbibe, I'd brought along a bottle of the 1999 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, which comes to us from a well-regarded, but somewhat under-the-radar producer based in Morey-Saint-Denis that started bottling under its own name in the 1950s.
- Initial Impressions: Substantial nose filled with candied cherries, earth, and sauvage. In the mouth: beautifully-resolved tannins and restrained black-and-blue fruit.
- After 10 Minutes: The Burgundy's aromas began highlighting tomato leaf and sweet spices. Taste-wise, I got a more contemplative expression of fruit, perked up by a palpable pepperiness.
- After 45 Minutes: Bouquet of blood and violets, with supporting nuances of roasted meats. On the palate, think silken, well-integrated, with perky fruits now supported by a noticeable herbaceousness.
- After 75 Minutes: At this point, the Pinot noir smelled of meat and mineral, spiked by sour fruits and dried herb. Taking a sip, I found the wine noticeably more viscous, with superbly balanced black fruit accented by spices both savory and sweet.
3a: Tomato Tofu & Tamarillo
A sort of reimagined tofu displayed both the tanginess of tomato and the savoriness of soy in spades. Accoutrements included tamarillo fruit, burnt basil oil, and crucially, the simultaneously bitter-floral nature of all those edible flowers. It all came together rather cleverly.
3b: Dungeness Crab "Tamago"
Next came what was essentially a riff on the classic Japanese chawanmushi. The egg custard was as silky as I was hoping for, and was well-imbued with this sweet-n-spicy character that meshed surprisingly seamlessly with the wonderfully smoky-sweet-saline Dungeness. At the same time, a sprinkling of fresh marigolds from the garden made for a vegetal, astringent accent piece.
4: Smoked Lobster & Peach Aguachile
Anchored by shards of Maine lobster as well as more ogo, this new wave aguachile expressed the essence of the sea in a beguilingly multifaceted manner. The floral-fruity nature of peach paired unexpectedly easily with all those oceany flavors going on, and I much appreciated the additional kick from both huacatay and coriander flower.
5: Caviar & Marcona Almond
N25 kaluga caviar was plated alongside a gently-set lobster custard topped with Marcona almond milk and roasted almond oil, then joined by salt brine-preserved Californian green almonds and umeboshi, with a finish of hazelnut oil and fermented barley reduction. This was a favorite of mine. I was pretty enamored with how the salty-sticky-nutty qualities of the caviar played with the nutty, grain-y elements in the dish, all supported by tangy, vegetal nuances and lingering umami.
I was then shown rainbow trout (and roe) sourced from New Castle, VA-based purveyor Smoke in Chimneys, to be used in the next two courses.
6a: Smoked Trout Donut
Trout was wrapped in seaweed, smoked in the restaurant's hearth, combined with pastry cream and mustard greens, enclosed in a beignet-style dough, and garnished with grated dehydrated trout roe. The "doughnut" made for a pretty marvelous bite, the smoky-sweetness of the fish melding effortlessly with this delightful tāngyuán-esque character, pinpricks of salt, and a marked piquancy on the finish.
As the donut above was treated as finger food, a wetted hand towel was provided.
6b: Rainbow Trout & Blueberry Ponzu
In our second preparation of trout, the fish was poached low-and-slow in kombu butter and accompanied by a gel of charred spring onion, the actual spring onion, a high-acid blueberry ponzu incorporating summer herbs muddled with citrus, a saffron-boosted sabayon, saffron salt, and fennel fronds. This all made for a presentation of trout unlike any I'd ever experienced. The fish itself ate cool and fatty and luscious, and was smartly complemented by a bevy of herbaceous, vegetal, and astringent flavors, moderated just enough by the creaminess of that sabayon.
7: Abalone & Boudin Noir
Monterey Bay abalone was gently poached in a mushroom dashi bolstered with veal stock (thus upping the viscosity) before being grilled. Blood sausage was tucked in underneath, maitake was draped over the top, and a condiment was made from the gastropod's innards. And to finish, we had a sauce incorporating the abalone's cooking liquid, sea grapes, velvet horn seaweed, sea lettuce, fresh citrus, kombu oil, and brown butter. The end result was what must surely be one of the alluring abalone dishes I've had. The brine and umami I expected were both there, duly enhanced by the depth of kimo, but I was quite captivated by the sheer "meatiness" of it all. Some nice textural variation going on here to boot.
8: Sweetbreads & Goat Butter
I'm a bit of a sucker for fried sweetbread, so I was definitely glad to see this next dish on the menu. The offal was pretty much flawless in terms of breading and frying, and curiously, reminded me of McNuggets, but in the best way possible. Utterly savory and satisfying, the fritter linked up perfectly with the almost Thai-like sting from all those rooftop garden-sourced herbs and botanicals, all while fermented peanut milk helped tie it all together.
9: Lone Mountain Wagyu Beef Tartare
Tangy dices of New Mexico-raised full-blood wagyu were placed in a savory, shattery sea lettuce tart shell. Pops of citrus helped lighten the mood, as did the bitter-floral qualities of those flowers. A fun one-biter before my "main course."
10a: Black Walnut Cured Quail Egg
Quail egg was cured in black walnut and honey, making for more fascinating flavors than most, while its textural "pop" was still there. Companions were a super savory quail gelée, chive oil, and an earthy slice of preserved Périgord truffle. Note also the quail egg-themed dishware utilized.
10b: Devil's Gulch Squab & Malted Milk Bread
Hearth-smoked squab ate as tender and tasty and succulent as I was hoping for, and while the bird was delicious alone, it was even better when taken with the nutty, familiar sweetness of a house-grown grain porridge (amaranth and buckwheat I believe). A chanterelle nage added further oomph to the dish, while the mintiness of shiso leaf provided a bit of lift. Accompanying the squab was the glossiest piece of bread I'd ever seen: an airy shokupan made in the style of brioche, loaded with a salty-sweetness that actually reminded me of yóutiáo.
Given the very hands-on nature of the milk bread above, another moistened hand towel proved quite necessary.
11: Melon & Wheatgrass
A refreshingly fruity summer melon granita was matched with the saltier, savorier qualities of squash and squash seeds, then surrounded by bright, grassy drizzles of wheatgrass, making for both an apt palate cleanser and a fitting transition from savory to sweet.
12: Fennel Ice Cream Bar
A wondrously sweet, zingy, milky fennel ice cream was united with a fruit compote, then encased in a white chocolate shell brushed with poppy seed purée and dusted with flakes of salt. Very neat, and undoubtedly one of the best uses of fennel I've ever witnessed.
13a: Preserved Pistachio Tart
13b: Chanterelle & Red Fruit
Next came a petit four duo. I began with the one on the left: a roasted seaweed tart with sansho(?) praline and green tea custard, topped with a green tea tuile. I enjoyed the bite's grain-y sort of sweetness and crunch, and I was also somehow reminded of breakfast cereal. We also had a summer chanterelle tart with a potato tuile and candied enokis, and with this one, I found an almost tomato-y tang joined by a lactic sensation and plenty of crunch.
13c: Cadbury™ Quail Egg
Interestingly, this homage to the Cadbury Creme Egg was actually a callback to the quail dish above. Set in sprouted wheatgrass was quail egg caramel and tart citrus, stuffed into a painted candied shell that showed off a rather aggressive crunch.
A final wet hand towel for the mignardises.
Last up was a sugary sea lettuce caramel that exhibited a nearly truffle-like funk, which I did not mind at all.
The team at Smyth did a bang-up job tonight, really delivering in terms of both food and service. The cooking is quite unlike anything else I've experienced, highlighting taste and technique in thoughtful, nuanced, and exciting dishes that blend the familiar with the bemusing. Smyth goes a long way in defining and redefining what contemporary American cuisine can be--I can see why the place scored three-stars.
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