Lucia (Los Angeles, CA)
Lucia Restaurant
351 N Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
213-800-0048
www.luciala.com
Thu 08/13/2026, 08:00p-11:00p
If we're talking about underrepresent cuisines in the Southland, then African-Caribbean would probably be pretty high on that list. In fact, I don't think I've ever been to a such a restaurant anywhere around LA, so when Lucia grand-opened on May 28th last year, my interest was certainly piqued.
This place is the brainchild of Sam Jordan (b. July 1991), who'd previously worked on Issima and Olivetta here in LA and the Kissel Uptown hotel in Oakland (his hometown), while also involved are Michael Morris and Dominic J. West. Lucia was ostensibly inspired by Jordan's travels throughout the Caribbean, and thus, he initially hired Jamaican-born chef Adrian Forte to helm the kitchen. However, Forte ended up leaving after just a few months, and was later replaced by Cleophus Hethington (a.k.a. Chef Ophus), who boasts quite a history himself.
About the Chef: Cleophus James Hethington Jr. was born in January 1983, with African roots that trace back to Cameroon and Senegal. He grew up in Miami, and was inspired culinarily by the home cooking of his grandmother and mother, as well as the cooking shows he watched on PBS. He attended both Coral Gables Senior High School and Miami Palmetto Senior High School (where he played football), and after graduating, joined the US Navy.
Based mostly out of Norfolk, VA, Hethington served for over five years as a hospital corpsman, during which time he achieved an associate degree in health sciences from nearby Tidewater Community College. Towards the end of his stint in the Navy, he enrolled in the public health program at the University of Miami and also worked for Baptist Health South Florida. However, after becoming disenchanted with the healthcare field, Hethington decided to pivot to a career in the culinary world, and started taking classes at Miami Dade College's Miami Culinary Institute.
In 2011, he secured an internship at Yardbird Southern Table & Bar in Miami Beach, which subsequently led to a regular prep position there. In early 2013, Hethington joined the team at Michael Schwartz's Cypress Room in Miami, but only stayed until September that year. His next posting was on the line at Ford Fry's The Optimist in Atlanta, and from there, he joined Jean-Georges Vongerichten's organization, eventually becoming lead line cook at Matador Room in Miami Beach. In July 2015, he transitioned to Bradley Kilgore's Alter, and in May 2016, moved back under Vongerichten when he took a sous chef position at Market at The Miami Beach Edition (the same property that's home to Matador Room).
From January to April 2017, Hethington cooked at the Four Seasons in Surfside, FL, and after leaving the hotel, apprenticed at La Sponda in Positano, Italy and D.O.M. in São Paulo, Brazil, then launched a pop-up called the Afro Dinner Series. The Chef then partnered with Brian Griffiths to start Shelley's, a seafood spot in Miami, though the place shut down after only six months. The two were then supposed to open a bar called Over/Under together, but Hethington eventually decided to step away. November 2018 saw him become sous at Swan in the Miami Design District, but by late March 2019, he had relocated to Atlanta for a gig at Lazy Betty.
In September 2019, while still working as a chef de partie at Lazy Betty, he launched Ębí Chop Bar, a pop-up inspired by African diaspora cuisine. Unfortunately, in January 2020, Hethington was involved in a pretty serious car accident and had to put a temporary pause on things. After recovering, he launched his own online venture called Triangular Traded Spices in November that year and resumed his Ebi Chop Bar dinners. In August 2021, he was hired by John Fleer to lead the kitchen at Benne on Eagle in Asheville, NC, replacing opening CdC Ashleigh Shanti, and even achieved 2022 Emerging Chef nominee status from James Beard for his work there.
However, Hethington left Benne on Eagle around the time of the Beard announcement and moved back to Miami for a Chef de Cuisine position at Zak the Baker, where he helped the bakery earn Outstanding Bakery nominee honors from James Beard in 2023. In June 2024, he went to Texas to become CdC at Canje, a Caribbean eatery in Austin, and then became Culinary Director at Baltimore's Kneads Bakeshop while also running an Afro-fine dining pop-up called Anansi. Last year, he was offered the opportunity to lead the kitchen at Lucia, moved to Southern California, and began working here at the start of November.
Lucia is situated on the very eastern edge of Beverly Grove, on its border with the Fairfax District, in the former home of Black Star Burger, Plan Check, Vodvil, and Versai/Versal. Penned by local firm Preen, Inc, the space is quite striking, and offers a bit of an Art Deco-meets-island supper club feel.
There's also a more sedate dining area off to the side, shown here mostly emptied out at the end of the night.
Pictured above is Lucia's relatively compact pan-Caribbean menu as well as a list of cocktails from Melina "Mel" Meza (Mixalot Cocktail Co mobile bar, Level 8, Boujis Group, Broken Shaker, Ink, Last Call cocktail consulting). Corkage is $40. Click for larger versions.
And here's the restaurant's full beverage offering of cocktails, wines, beer, and spirits (bottle service too). Click for larger versions.
Albacore & Mango Crudo [$25.00] | coconut + cashews
Dinner commenced with a crudo quite unlike any other I've tasted. Its combination of warm spices and sweet coconut seemed familiar, yet novel in this application, complementing the tuna without ever overpowering it. I didn't mind the additional fruitiness from the mango, and also enjoyed the nutty crunch provided by the cashews.
Rock Shrimp [$23.00] | grapefruit + pineapples + fresnos + taro chips
Rock shrimp came out cool and briny, but really called for the sweet-tartness of pineapple to make them sing, while I wouldn't have minded a bit more heat from the Fresnos, either. Meanwhile, the light, shattery taro crisps on the side actually worked out well with the crudo, too.
Crab & Callaloo Patty [$11.00] | served with green papaya kuchela
A flaky pastry shell was stuffed with a mixture of sweet-n-saline crab and bitter greens. It was pretty tasty by itself, but was indeed taken to another level by that super zingy relish, which served as the perfect accent piece to the patty.
Tonight's twentieth anniversary bottle was the 2006 Dom Pérignon Champagne Brut Rosé Lady Gaga Limited Edition, which I chose since I'd had the regular '06 DP not long ago at Sushi Nakazawa. This year's blend incorporated 20% still Pinot noir, and initial whiffs brought concentrated aromas of red fruit preserves and brioche, while the palate was similarly intense, with more of those red berry flavors commixed with plenty of yeasty notes, hints of citrus, and a pleasant acidity. An hour in, the nose began giving more saline and suānméi, and in the mouth, things got less toasty and more mineral driven, with still plenty of lively fruit. Overall, I found the wine quite youthful, more so than the standard non-rosé bottling I'd say.
Saltfish Croquetas [$22.00] | truffle + manchego cheese + red pepper aioli
I'm a bit of a sucker for saltfish, so this was a must-try for me. The croquettes featured pleasingly crunchy exteriors and definitely weren't shy about the salt, which I appreciated. I didn't get too much from the advertised truffle, though the dish was probably fine without it. And curiously, the overall effect was somewhat reminiscent of the frozen fish sticks of my childhood, but in a good way.
Charred Octopus [$21.00] | charred geera octopus + coriander-malta glaze + culantro emulsion
Octo arrived decently tender, and was teeming with the familiar warm-spiciness of cumin. Coriander and Malta imparted further depth to the dish, while the culantro and slivers of fruit worked for balance.
Green-Fig Leaf Fish Roast [$55.00] | naranja agria + bell peppers caldo + lime caviar
Barramundi ate moist and flaky, its tender, delicately sweet flesh taking well to the almost contemplative spicing of the dish. I quite liked the relish on top, too, which helped brighten things up.
Wagyu Beef Patty [$11.00] | served with mango calypso
Our second patty featured a crispier pastry shell, and was filled with some potently-spiced ground meat. The accompanying mango sauce was absolutely key, as its piquancy really helped counteract the heavy flavors going on.
Pastélon [$38.00] | plantain pasta + wagyu sofrito + pecorino béchamel
A Caribbean take on lasagna represented an intriguing twist on the Italian staple. I found a mélange of beefy sweetness and long-lingering spice, with that béchamel working to tie the various elements together. I was also surprised at how well those plantains substituted for the usual pasta sheets.
Eggplant & Tomato Choka [$17.00] | green seasoning + pickled shallots + fry bake
Eggplant and tomato showcased a heavy sear and smoke, so given the assertive flavors at play, I could've used more freshness, more zestiness from the green seasoning. The star of the show for me was the fried bake, a delightfully airy-yet-substantial bread with a touch of herbaceousness to it.
Curry Duck Breast [$63.00] | mango talkari + pistachio-cocoa dukkah
I had a hard time resisting the duck, and fortunately, it was pretty spot-on in terms of tenderness and succulence, with bird's signature earthy savor proudly conveyed. The dish's warm, nutty, peppery spices made sense, while that mango condiment provided contrast.
Oxtail [$110.00] | coconut rice and peas + roasted carrots
Tonight's most substantial course highlighted a robust portion of rich, dark-toned, sticky-savory oxtail. The sweet-ish/salty-ish coconut rice functioned somewhat to offset the beef's aggressive flavors, but I would've preferred a less seasoned accompaniment.
Here we see Lucia's dessert menu and selection of after-dinner beverages. Click for larger versions.
Guava & Cheese Pastelitos [$14.00] | buttery puff pastry + floral guava
Wrapped in puff pastry was a pretty flawless marriage of tart guava and creamy cheese, all with a nice warmth to it.
Accompanying the sweet stuff was a pour of crisp, refreshing, apple-y Macabeo, Xarel·lo & Parellada, CUNE, Cava Brut – Penedès, Spain, NV. Note that the cava, as well as both desserts, ended up being on the house, I'm assuming because we ordered so much.
Rum Cake [$16.00] | warm coconut milk sauce + browning + aged jamaican rum + warm spices
A Jamaican riff on rum cake was also a winner thanks to its plethora of boozy dark fruit, warming spices, and creamy, cozy, caramel-y flavors.
Given Lucia's somewhat "clubby" environs (there is a DJ booth after all), I was a tad wary coming in to this meal. Fortunately, the team was largely able to pull it off, despite a few quibbles. They're doing Afro-Caribbean cooking unlike anyone else in the City, paying tribute to African diasporic culinary tradition and celebrating the diversity of the cuisine, all while placing the food in more of a modern, upscale context. Lucia's a worthwhile addition to Fairfax's "restaurant row," and hopefully it can help revitalize the area, which has certainly seen its influence on the LA dining scene decline in recent years.
351 N Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
213-800-0048
www.luciala.com
Thu 08/13/2026, 08:00p-11:00p
If we're talking about underrepresent cuisines in the Southland, then African-Caribbean would probably be pretty high on that list. In fact, I don't think I've ever been to a such a restaurant anywhere around LA, so when Lucia grand-opened on May 28th last year, my interest was certainly piqued.
This place is the brainchild of Sam Jordan (b. July 1991), who'd previously worked on Issima and Olivetta here in LA and the Kissel Uptown hotel in Oakland (his hometown), while also involved are Michael Morris and Dominic J. West. Lucia was ostensibly inspired by Jordan's travels throughout the Caribbean, and thus, he initially hired Jamaican-born chef Adrian Forte to helm the kitchen. However, Forte ended up leaving after just a few months, and was later replaced by Cleophus Hethington (a.k.a. Chef Ophus), who boasts quite a history himself.
About the Chef: Cleophus James Hethington Jr. was born in January 1983, with African roots that trace back to Cameroon and Senegal. He grew up in Miami, and was inspired culinarily by the home cooking of his grandmother and mother, as well as the cooking shows he watched on PBS. He attended both Coral Gables Senior High School and Miami Palmetto Senior High School (where he played football), and after graduating, joined the US Navy.
Based mostly out of Norfolk, VA, Hethington served for over five years as a hospital corpsman, during which time he achieved an associate degree in health sciences from nearby Tidewater Community College. Towards the end of his stint in the Navy, he enrolled in the public health program at the University of Miami and also worked for Baptist Health South Florida. However, after becoming disenchanted with the healthcare field, Hethington decided to pivot to a career in the culinary world, and started taking classes at Miami Dade College's Miami Culinary Institute.
In 2011, he secured an internship at Yardbird Southern Table & Bar in Miami Beach, which subsequently led to a regular prep position there. In early 2013, Hethington joined the team at Michael Schwartz's Cypress Room in Miami, but only stayed until September that year. His next posting was on the line at Ford Fry's The Optimist in Atlanta, and from there, he joined Jean-Georges Vongerichten's organization, eventually becoming lead line cook at Matador Room in Miami Beach. In July 2015, he transitioned to Bradley Kilgore's Alter, and in May 2016, moved back under Vongerichten when he took a sous chef position at Market at The Miami Beach Edition (the same property that's home to Matador Room).
From January to April 2017, Hethington cooked at the Four Seasons in Surfside, FL, and after leaving the hotel, apprenticed at La Sponda in Positano, Italy and D.O.M. in São Paulo, Brazil, then launched a pop-up called the Afro Dinner Series. The Chef then partnered with Brian Griffiths to start Shelley's, a seafood spot in Miami, though the place shut down after only six months. The two were then supposed to open a bar called Over/Under together, but Hethington eventually decided to step away. November 2018 saw him become sous at Swan in the Miami Design District, but by late March 2019, he had relocated to Atlanta for a gig at Lazy Betty.
In September 2019, while still working as a chef de partie at Lazy Betty, he launched Ębí Chop Bar, a pop-up inspired by African diaspora cuisine. Unfortunately, in January 2020, Hethington was involved in a pretty serious car accident and had to put a temporary pause on things. After recovering, he launched his own online venture called Triangular Traded Spices in November that year and resumed his Ebi Chop Bar dinners. In August 2021, he was hired by John Fleer to lead the kitchen at Benne on Eagle in Asheville, NC, replacing opening CdC Ashleigh Shanti, and even achieved 2022 Emerging Chef nominee status from James Beard for his work there.
However, Hethington left Benne on Eagle around the time of the Beard announcement and moved back to Miami for a Chef de Cuisine position at Zak the Baker, where he helped the bakery earn Outstanding Bakery nominee honors from James Beard in 2023. In June 2024, he went to Texas to become CdC at Canje, a Caribbean eatery in Austin, and then became Culinary Director at Baltimore's Kneads Bakeshop while also running an Afro-fine dining pop-up called Anansi. Last year, he was offered the opportunity to lead the kitchen at Lucia, moved to Southern California, and began working here at the start of November.
Lucia is situated on the very eastern edge of Beverly Grove, on its border with the Fairfax District, in the former home of Black Star Burger, Plan Check, Vodvil, and Versai/Versal. Penned by local firm Preen, Inc, the space is quite striking, and offers a bit of an Art Deco-meets-island supper club feel.
There's also a more sedate dining area off to the side, shown here mostly emptied out at the end of the night.
Pictured above is Lucia's relatively compact pan-Caribbean menu as well as a list of cocktails from Melina "Mel" Meza (Mixalot Cocktail Co mobile bar, Level 8, Boujis Group, Broken Shaker, Ink, Last Call cocktail consulting). Corkage is $40. Click for larger versions.
And here's the restaurant's full beverage offering of cocktails, wines, beer, and spirits (bottle service too). Click for larger versions.
Albacore & Mango Crudo [$25.00] | coconut + cashews
Dinner commenced with a crudo quite unlike any other I've tasted. Its combination of warm spices and sweet coconut seemed familiar, yet novel in this application, complementing the tuna without ever overpowering it. I didn't mind the additional fruitiness from the mango, and also enjoyed the nutty crunch provided by the cashews.
Rock Shrimp [$23.00] | grapefruit + pineapples + fresnos + taro chips
Rock shrimp came out cool and briny, but really called for the sweet-tartness of pineapple to make them sing, while I wouldn't have minded a bit more heat from the Fresnos, either. Meanwhile, the light, shattery taro crisps on the side actually worked out well with the crudo, too.
Crab & Callaloo Patty [$11.00] | served with green papaya kuchela
A flaky pastry shell was stuffed with a mixture of sweet-n-saline crab and bitter greens. It was pretty tasty by itself, but was indeed taken to another level by that super zingy relish, which served as the perfect accent piece to the patty.
Tonight's twentieth anniversary bottle was the 2006 Dom Pérignon Champagne Brut Rosé Lady Gaga Limited Edition, which I chose since I'd had the regular '06 DP not long ago at Sushi Nakazawa. This year's blend incorporated 20% still Pinot noir, and initial whiffs brought concentrated aromas of red fruit preserves and brioche, while the palate was similarly intense, with more of those red berry flavors commixed with plenty of yeasty notes, hints of citrus, and a pleasant acidity. An hour in, the nose began giving more saline and suānméi, and in the mouth, things got less toasty and more mineral driven, with still plenty of lively fruit. Overall, I found the wine quite youthful, more so than the standard non-rosé bottling I'd say.
Saltfish Croquetas [$22.00] | truffle + manchego cheese + red pepper aioli
I'm a bit of a sucker for saltfish, so this was a must-try for me. The croquettes featured pleasingly crunchy exteriors and definitely weren't shy about the salt, which I appreciated. I didn't get too much from the advertised truffle, though the dish was probably fine without it. And curiously, the overall effect was somewhat reminiscent of the frozen fish sticks of my childhood, but in a good way.
Charred Octopus [$21.00] | charred geera octopus + coriander-malta glaze + culantro emulsion
Octo arrived decently tender, and was teeming with the familiar warm-spiciness of cumin. Coriander and Malta imparted further depth to the dish, while the culantro and slivers of fruit worked for balance.
Green-Fig Leaf Fish Roast [$55.00] | naranja agria + bell peppers caldo + lime caviar
Barramundi ate moist and flaky, its tender, delicately sweet flesh taking well to the almost contemplative spicing of the dish. I quite liked the relish on top, too, which helped brighten things up.
Wagyu Beef Patty [$11.00] | served with mango calypso
Our second patty featured a crispier pastry shell, and was filled with some potently-spiced ground meat. The accompanying mango sauce was absolutely key, as its piquancy really helped counteract the heavy flavors going on.
Pastélon [$38.00] | plantain pasta + wagyu sofrito + pecorino béchamel
A Caribbean take on lasagna represented an intriguing twist on the Italian staple. I found a mélange of beefy sweetness and long-lingering spice, with that béchamel working to tie the various elements together. I was also surprised at how well those plantains substituted for the usual pasta sheets.
Eggplant & Tomato Choka [$17.00] | green seasoning + pickled shallots + fry bake
Eggplant and tomato showcased a heavy sear and smoke, so given the assertive flavors at play, I could've used more freshness, more zestiness from the green seasoning. The star of the show for me was the fried bake, a delightfully airy-yet-substantial bread with a touch of herbaceousness to it.
Curry Duck Breast [$63.00] | mango talkari + pistachio-cocoa dukkah
I had a hard time resisting the duck, and fortunately, it was pretty spot-on in terms of tenderness and succulence, with bird's signature earthy savor proudly conveyed. The dish's warm, nutty, peppery spices made sense, while that mango condiment provided contrast.
Oxtail [$110.00] | coconut rice and peas + roasted carrots
Tonight's most substantial course highlighted a robust portion of rich, dark-toned, sticky-savory oxtail. The sweet-ish/salty-ish coconut rice functioned somewhat to offset the beef's aggressive flavors, but I would've preferred a less seasoned accompaniment.
Here we see Lucia's dessert menu and selection of after-dinner beverages. Click for larger versions.
Guava & Cheese Pastelitos [$14.00] | buttery puff pastry + floral guava
Wrapped in puff pastry was a pretty flawless marriage of tart guava and creamy cheese, all with a nice warmth to it.
Accompanying the sweet stuff was a pour of crisp, refreshing, apple-y Macabeo, Xarel·lo & Parellada, CUNE, Cava Brut – Penedès, Spain, NV. Note that the cava, as well as both desserts, ended up being on the house, I'm assuming because we ordered so much.
Rum Cake [$16.00] | warm coconut milk sauce + browning + aged jamaican rum + warm spices
A Jamaican riff on rum cake was also a winner thanks to its plethora of boozy dark fruit, warming spices, and creamy, cozy, caramel-y flavors.
Given Lucia's somewhat "clubby" environs (there is a DJ booth after all), I was a tad wary coming in to this meal. Fortunately, the team was largely able to pull it off, despite a few quibbles. They're doing Afro-Caribbean cooking unlike anyone else in the City, paying tribute to African diasporic culinary tradition and celebrating the diversity of the cuisine, all while placing the food in more of a modern, upscale context. Lucia's a worthwhile addition to Fairfax's "restaurant row," and hopefully it can help revitalize the area, which has certainly seen its influence on the LA dining scene decline in recent years.
posted by kevinEats at
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