Yakun (Los Angeles, CA)
Yakun Yakitori
2000 Sawtelle Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
213-998-9888
www.ya-kun.com
Sat 08/29/2026, 07:35p-10:10p
As regular readers may know, I'm quite the yakitori fan, so new openings in the space always tend to catch my eye. This was especially the case with Yakun in Sawtelle Japantown, which grand-opened on December 10th last year. A decidedly higher-end affair, the restaurant's name is a shortened form of "yakitori Kun," with the "Kun" being, I assume, a reference to owner Kun Huang (a.k.a. Kevin Huang), a recent graduate of UC Irvine. Yakun reportedly represents his first-ever foray into hospitality, and to oversee the place, he's installed General Manager Jerome Chan (UCLA c/o '14), a native of Hong Kong who apparently worked for Oprah previously.
Now in terms of the taisho, when Yakun initially opened, Kyoto-trained Hirotsugu Hongo appeared to be the one running the show. However, a couple months ago, ownership brought in a new chef, Akira Matsumoto, who hails from Hokkaido. Matsumoto-san is now handling the binchotan grill and thus prepared our kushiyaki items, while Hongo-san remains in charge of the zensai/plated dishes.
We arrived quite a bit early for our reservation, and thus waited in the lounge area near the entrance. Yakun takes over the former home of longstanding shabu-shabu slanger Mizu 212, and as we can see above, the space has been completely transformed.
While waiting, we were able to peruse Yakun's beverage list, which features Japanese whiskies, a sake list loaded with cult-y producers, a small wine list, pricey bottles of Royal Blue Tea, and cocktails from bartender Jason Mizutani (Bao Dim Sum House). Meanwhile, corkage is $80 a pop. Click for larger versions.
Yuzu Margarita [$20.00] | Don Julio, Yuzu, Lime Juice, Grand Marnier, Simple Syrup
We sampled three cocktails before the start of dinner, and up first was an easy-going take on your classic margarita: relatively restrained in terms of tequila, but well-imbued with the long-lingering sweet-tartness of yuzu.
Sakura Grapes Harmony [$22.00] | Nikka Vodka, Blueberries, Muscat Grapes, Lime Juice, Egg White
My favorite of the trio drew attention to the perfumey, near-candied sweetness of grape and blueberry, countered by a bit of a vegetal character, citrus, and the creaminess of egg white.
Japanese Plum Sour [$22.00] | Hokkaido Gin, Yuzu, Simple Syrup, Japanese Plum, Egg White
The last of our apéritif cocktails was also quite nice, showing off a fruity, almost "milky" quality juxtaposed against astringent, saline nuances.
Shortly before 8:00pm, we were led to our seats at the kitchen counter, where our place settings were already waiting.
A chilled oshibori soon arrived, which would prove to be quite useful throughout the course of the meal.
Here we see tonight's 19-course yakitori omakase menu, priced at $280 a head. Click for a larger version.
Mizutani-san also prepared a non-alcoholic welcome drink comprising orange juice, passion fruit, lime, yuzu, Calpico, and club soda. Citrusy and refreshing.
1: Goma Tofu 胡麻豆腐
Dinner commenced with a sakizuke course of super nutty sesame tofu, countered by salty pops of caviar and even saltier pops of ikura, all enveloped by the creaminess of Hokkaido uni.
Yakun Enzoni [$25.00] | Hokkaido Gin, Muddled Muscat Grapes, Lime Juice, Campari
Our second cocktail round began with a "modern classic" of sorts, one that combined the inimitable fruitiness of Muscat grape with the bittersweetness of Campari and a touch of oxidative character.
2: Botan Ebi 牡丹海老, Madai 鯛
Hirotsugu-san's sashimi course brought clean, subtly savory, well-textured cuts of red seabream that opened up with a brush of soy. To its side was spot prawn, which I found creamy but with some "snap," while the shrimp's saline-sweet nature really called for a daub of wasabi.
Origami Hikoki (Paper Plane) [$25.00] | Japanese Whisky, Lime Juice, Aperol, Umeshu
A riff on Sam Ross' Paper Plane drank bright and citrusy, its fruitiness counterbalanced by the underlying heft of whisky.
3: Abalone 鮑
Our nimono dish featured pleasantly chewy cuts of awabi that were rich in umami, but also possessed this butteriness that was unexpected, but not unwelcomed.
Sesame Mezcal Sour [$24.00] | Dos Hombres Mezcal, Lime Juice, Simple Syrup, Egg White, Sesame Oil, Black Sesame Seed Garnish
My favorite cocktail from round #2 did a good job playing the signature nuttiness of sesame with the smokiness of mezcal, the whole thing moderated by further notes of citrus and egg white.
4: Kinmedai 金目鯛
Wanmono duties were handled by an invigorating soup of richly-flavored golden eye snapper. The fish matched beautifully with the zestiness of onion, while those root veggies offered further contrast.
At this point, the Kishū binchōtan charcoal grill was already fired up, and thus Chef Matsumoto presented us with a preview of this evening's skewers.
5: A5 Wagyu 和牛
Our final course prior to the yakitori was tenderloin of Hannari beef, sourced from Kyoto (see certificate). The cut was especially finespun in terms of texture, with a delectably balanced presentation of fattiness and smoke. The wagyu was accompanied by a barbeque-ish red wine sauce, and more crucially, a zippy wasabi condiment that served as a consummate counterpoint to the potency of the meat.
My twentieth anniversary selection for tonight was the 2006 Penfolds Grange Bin 95, a blend of 98% Shiraz and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 18 months in new American oak. Easily the most iconic wine to come out of Australia, it saw its first commercially-released vintage in 1952, and was initially crafted by winemaker Max Schubert to rival the top clarets of Bordeaux.
The plates were probably the most unique I've seen at a yakitori spot. Condiment choices were seaweed salt and shichimi tōgarashi.
6: Chicken Thigh with Green Onion ねぎま
Our first skewer was the requisite negima. Chicken thigh came out as tender and juicy and smoky as I was hoping for, and also proffered this sourness that linked up nicely with the zing of green onion.
7: Chicken Tender ささみ
The sasami was also a winner. The bird had a soft, silky consistency that I liked, while its delicate flavors were amped up by the kick of kizami wasabi. One of the better breasts I've tried.
8: Chicken Wing 手羽先
The tebasaki was the most aggressive skewer we had thanks to its full-throated flavors and in-my-face juiciness and char.
Pictured above is the view from my seat at the eight-person counter, helmed by Akira-san. Do note that there's a private dining room as well.
9: Quail Egg うずらの卵
The uzura no tamago was also a highlight, with its pleasant "pop" of texture, creamy interior, and permeating umami.
10: Chicken Gizzard 砂肝
Sunagimo showed off its signature crunch, but also a certain succulence, while flavors were smoky and earthy.
11: Chicken Heart ハツ
The hatsu delivered as well due to its agreeable combination of suppleness, juiciness, and sear.
Golden Kiwi Mojito [$30.00] | Golden Kiwi, Jamaica Rum, Lime Juice, Mint, Club Soda
It was now time for our third round of cocktails. Back in the mid-aughts, I was quite the mojito fiend, so this was a nice throwback to that era. It had all the classic elements I was looking for, with the kiwi making itself known toward the back end, though I would've liked to have tasted more of the fruit.
12: Tofu Cake 豆腐
The tofu was definitely a favorite, and likely one of the best hot preparations I've had. I was a big fan of its crisp exterior and scrumptious insides, while its subtly nutty flavors were bolstered by the punchiness of all that onion.
Melon Yakult Mojito (Clarified) [$26.00] | Japanese Rum, Yuzu, Yakult, Mint Leaves, Fresh Melon Juice, Simple Syrup, Soda Water
Another mojito, this one clarified, was more interesting. It featured a creamy sort of astringency and a welcome dosing of citrus, but was a bit light on the advertised melon.
13: Eggplant 茄子
Nasu arrived fleshy and sweet, with a good amount of smoke, and took well to the sting of ginger.
Strawberry Lychee Martini [$25.00]
An off-menu cocktail managed to be our favorite of the third round. Incorporating vodka, coconut rum, yuzu, and sparkling sake, I found it properly berry-forward, with the clean, sweet-floral nature of lychee also apparent.
14: Chicken Soft Bone 軟骨
I was also pleased with the yagen nankotsu, as the cartilage showcased its trademark crunch in spades, but in concert with just enough actual breast meat for good measure.
We had a brief beer interlude in the form of the Asahi Gold Draft Beer [$12]. I preferred it to the standard Asahi, finding the brew noticeably maltier, with a somewhat more luxurious mouthfeel.
15: Chicken Tail ぼんじり
Bonjiri came loaded with the sear, fat, and lusciousness I was looking for, and also boasted a pervasive sweetness that I did not mind at all.
At this point, Mizutani brought out a series of experimental cocktails for us to try, which were all complimentary. The first was called the Yellow Passion I believe, and consisted of gin, passion fruit, orange liqueur, and yuzu. With this one, the tropical nature of the drink did work quite well with the noticeably botanical nature of the gin, with that foam tempering the flavors at play somewhat.
16: Okra オクラ
Okra was lovely, with the seed pods' mucilage smartly kept in check by the grilling process and the plentiful amounts of umami from those katsuobushi shavings.
Here we had a concoction of miso-shiso-yuzu syrup, cucumber, gin, sake, sesame oil, and yuzu liqueur, with a furikake rim, though Mizutani stated that he'd eventually like to serve it with housemade cucumber tsukemono. There was an enjoyable mélange of flavors going on here, though I would've liked to have tasted more from the yuzu, which I think would serve to uplift the drink.
17: Duck 鴨
The kamo was our final skewer. Think dense, meaty, and teeming with anatine funk, with some super flavorful skin to boot.
White Lotus Cosmo (Clarified) | Nikka Vodka, Korean Pear Juice, Grand Marnier, Lime Juice, Simple Syrup
Next came a sample of an existing cocktail on the menu that we'd expressed some curiosity about. I rather enjoyed the drink's silky texture, and there was an effective interaction between the pear, orange liqueur, and vodka going on.
Supplement: Chicken Gizzard 砂肝 [$15.00]
Supplement: Chicken Heart ハツ [$15.00]
Supplement: Chicken Tail ぼんじり [$18.00]
We ended up ordering a few supplemental skewers as well.
This was an old-fashioned-inspired cocktail incorporating Hibiki Harmony, housemade miso-shiso-yuzu syrup, and orange bitters. What struck me here was how forcefully the cacao-ish flavors of the whisky were conveyed, along with nuances of oak and citrus.
18: Yuzu Sōmen 柚子そうめん
The shokuji course gave us slick, springy noodles set in a savory, refreshingly yuzu-y broth.
Japanese Old Fashioned [$26.00] | Japanese Whisky, Orange Bitters, Maple Syrup, Cinnamon Stick
We went back to ordering off the menu for our final cocktail, one that smelled richly of sweet smoke, while in terms of taste, the focus was on the sugariness of maple, offset by a bevy of bitter, boozy, herby, citrusy elements.
19: Muskmelon マスクメロン
An utterly sweet, succulent Crown melon served as our mizumono.
Gifts to take home included two bottled waters and a sensu (folding fan).
Given Yakun's somewhat over-the-top nature, I was a tad skeptical coming in. Fortunately, it seems that my fears were largely unfounded, since my dining companions and I ended up having a good time here. I think the cooking compares pretty favorably to what I've experienced at the top yakitori-ya in Southern California. However, one potential issue is the "Chinese-style" service, which might seem awkward and unsettling for some diners. Overall though, a worthy new entrant to the Little Osaka dining scene.
2000 Sawtelle Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
213-998-9888
www.ya-kun.com
Sat 08/29/2026, 07:35p-10:10p
As regular readers may know, I'm quite the yakitori fan, so new openings in the space always tend to catch my eye. This was especially the case with Yakun in Sawtelle Japantown, which grand-opened on December 10th last year. A decidedly higher-end affair, the restaurant's name is a shortened form of "yakitori Kun," with the "Kun" being, I assume, a reference to owner Kun Huang (a.k.a. Kevin Huang), a recent graduate of UC Irvine. Yakun reportedly represents his first-ever foray into hospitality, and to oversee the place, he's installed General Manager Jerome Chan (UCLA c/o '14), a native of Hong Kong who apparently worked for Oprah previously.
Now in terms of the taisho, when Yakun initially opened, Kyoto-trained Hirotsugu Hongo appeared to be the one running the show. However, a couple months ago, ownership brought in a new chef, Akira Matsumoto, who hails from Hokkaido. Matsumoto-san is now handling the binchotan grill and thus prepared our kushiyaki items, while Hongo-san remains in charge of the zensai/plated dishes.
We arrived quite a bit early for our reservation, and thus waited in the lounge area near the entrance. Yakun takes over the former home of longstanding shabu-shabu slanger Mizu 212, and as we can see above, the space has been completely transformed.
While waiting, we were able to peruse Yakun's beverage list, which features Japanese whiskies, a sake list loaded with cult-y producers, a small wine list, pricey bottles of Royal Blue Tea, and cocktails from bartender Jason Mizutani (Bao Dim Sum House). Meanwhile, corkage is $80 a pop. Click for larger versions.
Yuzu Margarita [$20.00] | Don Julio, Yuzu, Lime Juice, Grand Marnier, Simple Syrup
We sampled three cocktails before the start of dinner, and up first was an easy-going take on your classic margarita: relatively restrained in terms of tequila, but well-imbued with the long-lingering sweet-tartness of yuzu.
Sakura Grapes Harmony [$22.00] | Nikka Vodka, Blueberries, Muscat Grapes, Lime Juice, Egg White
My favorite of the trio drew attention to the perfumey, near-candied sweetness of grape and blueberry, countered by a bit of a vegetal character, citrus, and the creaminess of egg white.
Japanese Plum Sour [$22.00] | Hokkaido Gin, Yuzu, Simple Syrup, Japanese Plum, Egg White
The last of our apéritif cocktails was also quite nice, showing off a fruity, almost "milky" quality juxtaposed against astringent, saline nuances.
Shortly before 8:00pm, we were led to our seats at the kitchen counter, where our place settings were already waiting.
A chilled oshibori soon arrived, which would prove to be quite useful throughout the course of the meal.
Here we see tonight's 19-course yakitori omakase menu, priced at $280 a head. Click for a larger version.
Mizutani-san also prepared a non-alcoholic welcome drink comprising orange juice, passion fruit, lime, yuzu, Calpico, and club soda. Citrusy and refreshing.
1: Goma Tofu 胡麻豆腐
Dinner commenced with a sakizuke course of super nutty sesame tofu, countered by salty pops of caviar and even saltier pops of ikura, all enveloped by the creaminess of Hokkaido uni.
Yakun Enzoni [$25.00] | Hokkaido Gin, Muddled Muscat Grapes, Lime Juice, Campari
Our second cocktail round began with a "modern classic" of sorts, one that combined the inimitable fruitiness of Muscat grape with the bittersweetness of Campari and a touch of oxidative character.
2: Botan Ebi 牡丹海老, Madai 鯛
Hirotsugu-san's sashimi course brought clean, subtly savory, well-textured cuts of red seabream that opened up with a brush of soy. To its side was spot prawn, which I found creamy but with some "snap," while the shrimp's saline-sweet nature really called for a daub of wasabi.
Origami Hikoki (Paper Plane) [$25.00] | Japanese Whisky, Lime Juice, Aperol, Umeshu
A riff on Sam Ross' Paper Plane drank bright and citrusy, its fruitiness counterbalanced by the underlying heft of whisky.
3: Abalone 鮑
Our nimono dish featured pleasantly chewy cuts of awabi that were rich in umami, but also possessed this butteriness that was unexpected, but not unwelcomed.
Sesame Mezcal Sour [$24.00] | Dos Hombres Mezcal, Lime Juice, Simple Syrup, Egg White, Sesame Oil, Black Sesame Seed Garnish
My favorite cocktail from round #2 did a good job playing the signature nuttiness of sesame with the smokiness of mezcal, the whole thing moderated by further notes of citrus and egg white.
4: Kinmedai 金目鯛
Wanmono duties were handled by an invigorating soup of richly-flavored golden eye snapper. The fish matched beautifully with the zestiness of onion, while those root veggies offered further contrast.
At this point, the Kishū binchōtan charcoal grill was already fired up, and thus Chef Matsumoto presented us with a preview of this evening's skewers.
5: A5 Wagyu 和牛
Our final course prior to the yakitori was tenderloin of Hannari beef, sourced from Kyoto (see certificate). The cut was especially finespun in terms of texture, with a delectably balanced presentation of fattiness and smoke. The wagyu was accompanied by a barbeque-ish red wine sauce, and more crucially, a zippy wasabi condiment that served as a consummate counterpoint to the potency of the meat.
My twentieth anniversary selection for tonight was the 2006 Penfolds Grange Bin 95, a blend of 98% Shiraz and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 18 months in new American oak. Easily the most iconic wine to come out of Australia, it saw its first commercially-released vintage in 1952, and was initially crafted by winemaker Max Schubert to rival the top clarets of Bordeaux.
- Initial Impressions: Eminently inviting bouquet of smoked meats and black fruit. In the mouth, boatloads of chocolate commixed with berry preserves. Quite impactful I must say.
- After 20 Minutes: Massive cacao and dark fruit, both on the nose and the tongue.
- After 40 Minutes: Aromas brought a dustier presentation of purple fruit, with touches of sweet spices appearing. On the palate: smooth, structured, with more of those Asian-y spices intermingled with plenty of fruit.
- After 80 Minutes: A cooler, more toned-down display of fruit on the nose, with further sensations of that aforementioned spice. Taste-wise, I began detecting cough syrup, but in the best way possible.
- After 110 Minutes: At this point, the Syrah smelled of stewed dark fruits and sour plums. Palate-wise, I found more apparent tannins and still omnipresent fruit, but with less spice and more mineral.
The plates were probably the most unique I've seen at a yakitori spot. Condiment choices were seaweed salt and shichimi tōgarashi.
6: Chicken Thigh with Green Onion ねぎま
Our first skewer was the requisite negima. Chicken thigh came out as tender and juicy and smoky as I was hoping for, and also proffered this sourness that linked up nicely with the zing of green onion.
7: Chicken Tender ささみ
The sasami was also a winner. The bird had a soft, silky consistency that I liked, while its delicate flavors were amped up by the kick of kizami wasabi. One of the better breasts I've tried.
8: Chicken Wing 手羽先
The tebasaki was the most aggressive skewer we had thanks to its full-throated flavors and in-my-face juiciness and char.
Pictured above is the view from my seat at the eight-person counter, helmed by Akira-san. Do note that there's a private dining room as well.
9: Quail Egg うずらの卵
The uzura no tamago was also a highlight, with its pleasant "pop" of texture, creamy interior, and permeating umami.
10: Chicken Gizzard 砂肝
Sunagimo showed off its signature crunch, but also a certain succulence, while flavors were smoky and earthy.
11: Chicken Heart ハツ
The hatsu delivered as well due to its agreeable combination of suppleness, juiciness, and sear.
Golden Kiwi Mojito [$30.00] | Golden Kiwi, Jamaica Rum, Lime Juice, Mint, Club Soda
It was now time for our third round of cocktails. Back in the mid-aughts, I was quite the mojito fiend, so this was a nice throwback to that era. It had all the classic elements I was looking for, with the kiwi making itself known toward the back end, though I would've liked to have tasted more of the fruit.
12: Tofu Cake 豆腐
The tofu was definitely a favorite, and likely one of the best hot preparations I've had. I was a big fan of its crisp exterior and scrumptious insides, while its subtly nutty flavors were bolstered by the punchiness of all that onion.
Melon Yakult Mojito (Clarified) [$26.00] | Japanese Rum, Yuzu, Yakult, Mint Leaves, Fresh Melon Juice, Simple Syrup, Soda Water
Another mojito, this one clarified, was more interesting. It featured a creamy sort of astringency and a welcome dosing of citrus, but was a bit light on the advertised melon.
13: Eggplant 茄子
Nasu arrived fleshy and sweet, with a good amount of smoke, and took well to the sting of ginger.
Strawberry Lychee Martini [$25.00]
An off-menu cocktail managed to be our favorite of the third round. Incorporating vodka, coconut rum, yuzu, and sparkling sake, I found it properly berry-forward, with the clean, sweet-floral nature of lychee also apparent.
14: Chicken Soft Bone 軟骨
I was also pleased with the yagen nankotsu, as the cartilage showcased its trademark crunch in spades, but in concert with just enough actual breast meat for good measure.
We had a brief beer interlude in the form of the Asahi Gold Draft Beer [$12]. I preferred it to the standard Asahi, finding the brew noticeably maltier, with a somewhat more luxurious mouthfeel.
15: Chicken Tail ぼんじり
Bonjiri came loaded with the sear, fat, and lusciousness I was looking for, and also boasted a pervasive sweetness that I did not mind at all.
At this point, Mizutani brought out a series of experimental cocktails for us to try, which were all complimentary. The first was called the Yellow Passion I believe, and consisted of gin, passion fruit, orange liqueur, and yuzu. With this one, the tropical nature of the drink did work quite well with the noticeably botanical nature of the gin, with that foam tempering the flavors at play somewhat.
16: Okra オクラ
Okra was lovely, with the seed pods' mucilage smartly kept in check by the grilling process and the plentiful amounts of umami from those katsuobushi shavings.
Here we had a concoction of miso-shiso-yuzu syrup, cucumber, gin, sake, sesame oil, and yuzu liqueur, with a furikake rim, though Mizutani stated that he'd eventually like to serve it with housemade cucumber tsukemono. There was an enjoyable mélange of flavors going on here, though I would've liked to have tasted more from the yuzu, which I think would serve to uplift the drink.
17: Duck 鴨
The kamo was our final skewer. Think dense, meaty, and teeming with anatine funk, with some super flavorful skin to boot.
White Lotus Cosmo (Clarified) | Nikka Vodka, Korean Pear Juice, Grand Marnier, Lime Juice, Simple Syrup
Next came a sample of an existing cocktail on the menu that we'd expressed some curiosity about. I rather enjoyed the drink's silky texture, and there was an effective interaction between the pear, orange liqueur, and vodka going on.
Supplement: Chicken Gizzard 砂肝 [$15.00]
Supplement: Chicken Heart ハツ [$15.00]
Supplement: Chicken Tail ぼんじり [$18.00]
We ended up ordering a few supplemental skewers as well.
This was an old-fashioned-inspired cocktail incorporating Hibiki Harmony, housemade miso-shiso-yuzu syrup, and orange bitters. What struck me here was how forcefully the cacao-ish flavors of the whisky were conveyed, along with nuances of oak and citrus.
18: Yuzu Sōmen 柚子そうめん
The shokuji course gave us slick, springy noodles set in a savory, refreshingly yuzu-y broth.
Japanese Old Fashioned [$26.00] | Japanese Whisky, Orange Bitters, Maple Syrup, Cinnamon Stick
We went back to ordering off the menu for our final cocktail, one that smelled richly of sweet smoke, while in terms of taste, the focus was on the sugariness of maple, offset by a bevy of bitter, boozy, herby, citrusy elements.
19: Muskmelon マスクメロン
An utterly sweet, succulent Crown melon served as our mizumono.
Gifts to take home included two bottled waters and a sensu (folding fan).
Given Yakun's somewhat over-the-top nature, I was a tad skeptical coming in. Fortunately, it seems that my fears were largely unfounded, since my dining companions and I ended up having a good time here. I think the cooking compares pretty favorably to what I've experienced at the top yakitori-ya in Southern California. However, one potential issue is the "Chinese-style" service, which might seem awkward and unsettling for some diners. Overall though, a worthy new entrant to the Little Osaka dining scene.
posted by kevinEats at
7:35 PM
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