Edgemar (Santa Monica, CA)
Edgemar Restaurant + Lounge
2435 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405
424-252-6844
www.edgemar.la
Fri 07/25/2025, 06:50p-09:20p
A recent birthday dinner on the Westside brought me out to Edgemar, a new-ish, globally-inflected modern American spot that grand-opened on August 16th last year. When the place debuted, running the show in terms of the food was Executive Chef Jared Dowling. However, he departed the restaurant earlier this year for a post at Doto in Silver Lake, so the man in charge now is his former lieutenant, Jon Thoma.
About the Chef: Born in June 1987, Jonathan Thoma boasts half-Malay heritage, and first got interested in cooking thanks to his Malaysian grandfather. He hails from Alliance, Ohio, and after attending Regina Coeli School, went to St. Thomas Aquinas High School in nearby Louisville, where he excelled in athletics (baseball, soccer, swimming, track), eventually joining the football team during his senior year. Following graduation in 2005, he enrolled at the Ohio State University and served as punter for the Buckeyes (#48), helping to lead the team to their 2010 Rose Bowl victory over the Oregon Ducks.
Thoma attained his communications degree in March 2010 and went to work in sales for freight brokerage firm Total Quality Logistics before joining the Columbus Crew (a pro soccer club) organization. In 2012, he relocated to Orange County to become assistant coach for the Huntington Beach High School Oilers, and during this period, also dabbled in resort sales for Marriott International down in Irvine. However, by 2015, he was back in Ohio, working in lending at Union Savings Bank and then in marketing at Ashtonne Packaging. Thoma then returned to OC in late 2017 to take on the role of director of business development at Hyperion Motors.
The position didn't last long though, and by April 2019, he had decided to change careers and pursue a culinary future. Given his lack of restaurant experience, he found it difficult to get his foot in the door, but was given a chance by Cassy Pugh at Gran Blanco in Venice. He started out in prep there that May, but moved up the ranks to line cook before encountering a bit of a setback at the start of the pandemic shutdowns. Nevertheless, by June 2020 he had transitioned over to Great White, taking charge of the cafe's pizza program. The following September, Thoma was promoted to regional manager and helped open Great White locations in Windsor Square and West Hollywood. In 2022, he and girlfriend Cate Strauser founded a dinner series called Ricehaus, but the concept didn't seem to last much beyond that year.
He decamped from Great White at the end of July 2023 and began consulting for Life House, opening Mīnerva's at their Palm Springs property and creating a rooftop bar menu for the company's hotel in Miami. He left in February 2024, did some catering, started a short-lived Southeast Asian pop-up called Little Angel in collaboration with the folks over at Holy Basil, then joined the crew here at Edgemar. Thoma's also involved with Vamos Vamos, a taco-plus-cocktail spot just down the street, and earlier this year, competed on Chopped, taking home the win on the episode "Hungry for Love: Exes" with none other than Strauser.
Edgemar is situated in a Frank Gehry-designed mixed-use development incorporating structures dating all the way back to the early 1900s, and resides in a 1928-era warehouse originally meant to store ice. The building's first restaurant tenant was none other than Hans Rockenwagner's eponymous eatery, which opened in 1991 and operated until 2006. It was subsequently replaced by an Asian fusion-y place called Yose, Salute Wine Bar (where Ari Taymor cooked before launching Alma), Brick + Mortar, and then Tipsy Chef. Tipsy Chef shuttered in early 2023, and the space has since been revamped by Thomas Greek (apparently one of the investors behind the place) and Julia Baker, who have imparted a more apropos aesthetic.
As for Edgemar's menu, it actually veers surprisingly pan-Asian-y, which I didn't expect. To drink, you get a small selection of wines, a handful of beers, and a few cocktails. Also shown is the DineLA menu, which we did not partake in. Click for larger versions.
Edgemar Spritz [$16.00] | Cocchi di Torino, St. Germain, Prosecco
We ended up trying pretty much all the cocktails, and this first one made for a fitting apéritif thanks to its fizzy, refreshing nature and interplay of bitter-herby nuances and the fruitiness of that elderflower liqueur.
Bread Service [$12.00] | Miso Honey Butter, Flatbread
Edgemar's untraditional bread service brought out some fluffy, well-seared flatbread, one with a distinct char astringency that evened out the sugariness of a honey-boosted, citrus-accented butter.
Shrimp Toast [$18.00] | Milk Bread, Ginger, Scallion, Yuzu Tartar, Ikura
The prawn toast was definitely a table favorite, and for good reason. I was a huge fan of how the salinity of the shrimp was conveyed, set against the nuttiness of all that sesame as well as the zestiness of those green onions, all while that tartar sauce helped tie it all together. Nice textural contrast from that toasty bread, too.
Sazerac [$17.00] | Cognac, Rye, VSOP Rhum, Oolong, Bitters, Absinthe
Here was a riff on the most iconic cocktail to ever come out of New Orleans. Nutty and chocolate-y on the nose, this one combined the one-two punch of rye and cognac with a bevy of herby, medicinal, and tea-enhanced notes, all while the drink's sugary underpinning helped soften things.
Wontons [$18.00] | Pork & Shrimp, Szechuan, Chili Oil
Next came wontons ostensibly inspired by the ones served at JTYH in Rosemead. The dumplings showcased a very apparent sweet-spiciness set against a textbook pork-shrimp filling and a surprisingly intense, creeping heat. These were quite tasty, though I would've liked a bit more delicacy with regard to the wrappers.
Yellowtail [$27.00] | Yuzu Soy, Serrano, Cilantro
Lush cuts of hamachi sashimi were offset by an aggressively savory soy and hits of piquant citrus. It was a pretty effective combo, though I didn't get much from the advertised serrano peppers.
Happy Place [$16.00] | Vodka, Rosé, Watermelon, Lime
This was likely the most quaffable cocktail of the evening, a light, summer-y concoction with an easy-going interaction between the watermelon and the booze, all perked up by pinpricks of citrus.
Stracciatella [$18.00] | House Pulled Cheese, Chili Diablo, Local Honey, Peach, Flatbread
A dish of stretched cheese demonstrated a sweet, creamy, lactic character juxtaposed against contrasting forces of honey and chile-fueled heat, with the included bread working to moderate everything.
Salmon [$26.00] | Ginger, Chives, Soy, Hot Sesame Oil
Slick shards of salmon sashimi were joined by an intensely "hammy" sort of umami that I didn't necessarily mind. The chives really helped balance things out, as did the sesame.
Negroni Sbagliato [$16.00] | Campari, Vermouth, Prosecco
A sparkling variation of the negroni displayed the classic bittersweetness I was expecting, but boasted an effervescence from the Prosecco that worked to lighten the cocktail's mood.
Tomato Tonnato [$18.00] | Munak Ranch Tomatoes, Tonnato, Chorizo Crumb, Herbs
Bright, juicy tomatoes played foil to salty bits of chorizo and the brininess of tuna, with the dill serving as an effective accent piece. A surprise favorite of mine.
Snap Peas [$16.00] | Sesame Oil, Citrus
I was also a big fan of the sugar snap peas, largely due to their utterly gratifying, crunchy texture and satisfyingly sweet, smoky, savory flavors.
Citrus & Silk [$15.00] | Blanco Tequila, Grapefruit, Ginger, Elderflower
This was another pretty relaxed cocktail, one highlighting a commixture of sweet, floral, and citrusy, all underpinned by some bitter, boozy constituents.
Chili Mushroom Noodle [$30.00] | Lo Mein, Maitake, Oyster Mushroom, Garlic Butter, Chili Oil
A duo of oyster and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms had their umami-laden flavors well-conveyed, and well-matched by both garlic and chili. However, my complaint here was that the noodles were far too soft, veering on mushy.
Beet Poke [$16.00] | Red and Golden Beets, Avocado Puree, Wakame, Jalapeno, Toasted Rice, Nori
Regular readers of this blog should know that I'm no fan of beets, but I have to say that what we had here was a surprise standout. That earthy type of sweetness you get with beetroot matched up swimmingly with the all those toasty, nutty bits and the savory-salinity of seaweed, and I liked the textures going on here, too.
Spicy Hibiscus Marg [$14.00] | Tequila, Hibiscus, Habanero, Lime
The lone frozen cocktail of the night showed off loads of florals from the hibiscus, which quickly transitioned to an amalgam of bitter, boozy, and medicinal tones.
Side of Rice [$4.00]
Rice arrived firmly-textured, which I appreciated, and worked to temper some of the more assertive flavors that followed.
Duck Breast [$28.00]
Sliced duck breast possessed the sweet-savory, earthy flavors I was expecting, though the bird didn't seem to coalesce with the other components on the plate as well as I'd hoped.
Guava Mezcal Daisy [$15.00] | Mezcal, Lime, Guava, Orange
Our penultimate cocktail was a variation on the classic daisy, one that blended citrusy and fruity with the smokier, woodsier qualities of mezcal.
Chicken Karaage [$18.00]
Kara-age came out decently juicy and tender, and quite flavorful even on its own, though I did appreciate that creamy, pickle-y sauce on the side as well.
Short Rib Rendang [$26.00] | Coconut Braise, Cilantro
Our final savory was one that clearly drew from Chef Thoma's Malaysian heritage. The beef had that fork-tender consistency I was seeking, while its dark, rich, robustly bovine flavors melded easily with both the coconut and the dish's heady spices.
Tres Leches [$12.00]
It was now time to get into dessert, the responsibility of Pastry Chef Rita Matinez, who'd actually been working with Dowling since at least 2020. First up was this pastel de tres leches, which shouldn't be surprising given that it's one of my favorite styles of cake. It had that spongey, saturated consistency I wanted, and its milky sweetness was joined by what I believe was coconut.
Espresso Martini [$15.00] | Vodka, Rum, Coffee Liqueur, Espresso
The night's final cocktail was a version of a vodka espresso, but incorporating rum. This gave the drink a sort of enhanced dark fruit quality that linked up pretty well with the otherwise smoky, bitter, roasty notes present.
Chocolate Pot De Créme [$12.00]
Here was a fairly by-the-book pot de crème, one that had its chocolate custard joined by some cookie-like pieces.
Ube Cheesecake [$12.00]
Last up was the cheesecake, a successful effort that brought together the signature sweetness of purple yam with this vanilla element that very clearly reminded me of Danish butter cookies.
I'm glad to report that Edgemar made for another successful birthday dinner. We were all generally pleased with the food, and the service largely met the mark as well, making this a welcomed restaurant addition to the neighborhood. That being said, I'd like to see the kitchen push things a bit further, since I think there's more potential here, so hopefully that'll come to fruition once Chef Thoma settles in to his new leadership role.
2435 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405
424-252-6844
www.edgemar.la
Fri 07/25/2025, 06:50p-09:20p
A recent birthday dinner on the Westside brought me out to Edgemar, a new-ish, globally-inflected modern American spot that grand-opened on August 16th last year. When the place debuted, running the show in terms of the food was Executive Chef Jared Dowling. However, he departed the restaurant earlier this year for a post at Doto in Silver Lake, so the man in charge now is his former lieutenant, Jon Thoma.
About the Chef: Born in June 1987, Jonathan Thoma boasts half-Malay heritage, and first got interested in cooking thanks to his Malaysian grandfather. He hails from Alliance, Ohio, and after attending Regina Coeli School, went to St. Thomas Aquinas High School in nearby Louisville, where he excelled in athletics (baseball, soccer, swimming, track), eventually joining the football team during his senior year. Following graduation in 2005, he enrolled at the Ohio State University and served as punter for the Buckeyes (#48), helping to lead the team to their 2010 Rose Bowl victory over the Oregon Ducks.
Thoma attained his communications degree in March 2010 and went to work in sales for freight brokerage firm Total Quality Logistics before joining the Columbus Crew (a pro soccer club) organization. In 2012, he relocated to Orange County to become assistant coach for the Huntington Beach High School Oilers, and during this period, also dabbled in resort sales for Marriott International down in Irvine. However, by 2015, he was back in Ohio, working in lending at Union Savings Bank and then in marketing at Ashtonne Packaging. Thoma then returned to OC in late 2017 to take on the role of director of business development at Hyperion Motors.
The position didn't last long though, and by April 2019, he had decided to change careers and pursue a culinary future. Given his lack of restaurant experience, he found it difficult to get his foot in the door, but was given a chance by Cassy Pugh at Gran Blanco in Venice. He started out in prep there that May, but moved up the ranks to line cook before encountering a bit of a setback at the start of the pandemic shutdowns. Nevertheless, by June 2020 he had transitioned over to Great White, taking charge of the cafe's pizza program. The following September, Thoma was promoted to regional manager and helped open Great White locations in Windsor Square and West Hollywood. In 2022, he and girlfriend Cate Strauser founded a dinner series called Ricehaus, but the concept didn't seem to last much beyond that year.
He decamped from Great White at the end of July 2023 and began consulting for Life House, opening Mīnerva's at their Palm Springs property and creating a rooftop bar menu for the company's hotel in Miami. He left in February 2024, did some catering, started a short-lived Southeast Asian pop-up called Little Angel in collaboration with the folks over at Holy Basil, then joined the crew here at Edgemar. Thoma's also involved with Vamos Vamos, a taco-plus-cocktail spot just down the street, and earlier this year, competed on Chopped, taking home the win on the episode "Hungry for Love: Exes" with none other than Strauser.
Edgemar is situated in a Frank Gehry-designed mixed-use development incorporating structures dating all the way back to the early 1900s, and resides in a 1928-era warehouse originally meant to store ice. The building's first restaurant tenant was none other than Hans Rockenwagner's eponymous eatery, which opened in 1991 and operated until 2006. It was subsequently replaced by an Asian fusion-y place called Yose, Salute Wine Bar (where Ari Taymor cooked before launching Alma), Brick + Mortar, and then Tipsy Chef. Tipsy Chef shuttered in early 2023, and the space has since been revamped by Thomas Greek (apparently one of the investors behind the place) and Julia Baker, who have imparted a more apropos aesthetic.
As for Edgemar's menu, it actually veers surprisingly pan-Asian-y, which I didn't expect. To drink, you get a small selection of wines, a handful of beers, and a few cocktails. Also shown is the DineLA menu, which we did not partake in. Click for larger versions.
Edgemar Spritz [$16.00] | Cocchi di Torino, St. Germain, Prosecco
We ended up trying pretty much all the cocktails, and this first one made for a fitting apéritif thanks to its fizzy, refreshing nature and interplay of bitter-herby nuances and the fruitiness of that elderflower liqueur.
Bread Service [$12.00] | Miso Honey Butter, Flatbread
Edgemar's untraditional bread service brought out some fluffy, well-seared flatbread, one with a distinct char astringency that evened out the sugariness of a honey-boosted, citrus-accented butter.
Shrimp Toast [$18.00] | Milk Bread, Ginger, Scallion, Yuzu Tartar, Ikura
The prawn toast was definitely a table favorite, and for good reason. I was a huge fan of how the salinity of the shrimp was conveyed, set against the nuttiness of all that sesame as well as the zestiness of those green onions, all while that tartar sauce helped tie it all together. Nice textural contrast from that toasty bread, too.
Sazerac [$17.00] | Cognac, Rye, VSOP Rhum, Oolong, Bitters, Absinthe
Here was a riff on the most iconic cocktail to ever come out of New Orleans. Nutty and chocolate-y on the nose, this one combined the one-two punch of rye and cognac with a bevy of herby, medicinal, and tea-enhanced notes, all while the drink's sugary underpinning helped soften things.
Wontons [$18.00] | Pork & Shrimp, Szechuan, Chili Oil
Next came wontons ostensibly inspired by the ones served at JTYH in Rosemead. The dumplings showcased a very apparent sweet-spiciness set against a textbook pork-shrimp filling and a surprisingly intense, creeping heat. These were quite tasty, though I would've liked a bit more delicacy with regard to the wrappers.
Yellowtail [$27.00] | Yuzu Soy, Serrano, Cilantro
Lush cuts of hamachi sashimi were offset by an aggressively savory soy and hits of piquant citrus. It was a pretty effective combo, though I didn't get much from the advertised serrano peppers.
Happy Place [$16.00] | Vodka, Rosé, Watermelon, Lime
This was likely the most quaffable cocktail of the evening, a light, summer-y concoction with an easy-going interaction between the watermelon and the booze, all perked up by pinpricks of citrus.
Stracciatella [$18.00] | House Pulled Cheese, Chili Diablo, Local Honey, Peach, Flatbread
A dish of stretched cheese demonstrated a sweet, creamy, lactic character juxtaposed against contrasting forces of honey and chile-fueled heat, with the included bread working to moderate everything.
Salmon [$26.00] | Ginger, Chives, Soy, Hot Sesame Oil
Slick shards of salmon sashimi were joined by an intensely "hammy" sort of umami that I didn't necessarily mind. The chives really helped balance things out, as did the sesame.
Negroni Sbagliato [$16.00] | Campari, Vermouth, Prosecco
A sparkling variation of the negroni displayed the classic bittersweetness I was expecting, but boasted an effervescence from the Prosecco that worked to lighten the cocktail's mood.
Tomato Tonnato [$18.00] | Munak Ranch Tomatoes, Tonnato, Chorizo Crumb, Herbs
Bright, juicy tomatoes played foil to salty bits of chorizo and the brininess of tuna, with the dill serving as an effective accent piece. A surprise favorite of mine.
Snap Peas [$16.00] | Sesame Oil, Citrus
I was also a big fan of the sugar snap peas, largely due to their utterly gratifying, crunchy texture and satisfyingly sweet, smoky, savory flavors.
Citrus & Silk [$15.00] | Blanco Tequila, Grapefruit, Ginger, Elderflower
This was another pretty relaxed cocktail, one highlighting a commixture of sweet, floral, and citrusy, all underpinned by some bitter, boozy constituents.
Chili Mushroom Noodle [$30.00] | Lo Mein, Maitake, Oyster Mushroom, Garlic Butter, Chili Oil
A duo of oyster and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms had their umami-laden flavors well-conveyed, and well-matched by both garlic and chili. However, my complaint here was that the noodles were far too soft, veering on mushy.
Beet Poke [$16.00] | Red and Golden Beets, Avocado Puree, Wakame, Jalapeno, Toasted Rice, Nori
Regular readers of this blog should know that I'm no fan of beets, but I have to say that what we had here was a surprise standout. That earthy type of sweetness you get with beetroot matched up swimmingly with the all those toasty, nutty bits and the savory-salinity of seaweed, and I liked the textures going on here, too.
Spicy Hibiscus Marg [$14.00] | Tequila, Hibiscus, Habanero, Lime
The lone frozen cocktail of the night showed off loads of florals from the hibiscus, which quickly transitioned to an amalgam of bitter, boozy, and medicinal tones.
Side of Rice [$4.00]
Rice arrived firmly-textured, which I appreciated, and worked to temper some of the more assertive flavors that followed.
Duck Breast [$28.00]
Sliced duck breast possessed the sweet-savory, earthy flavors I was expecting, though the bird didn't seem to coalesce with the other components on the plate as well as I'd hoped.
Guava Mezcal Daisy [$15.00] | Mezcal, Lime, Guava, Orange
Our penultimate cocktail was a variation on the classic daisy, one that blended citrusy and fruity with the smokier, woodsier qualities of mezcal.
Chicken Karaage [$18.00]
Kara-age came out decently juicy and tender, and quite flavorful even on its own, though I did appreciate that creamy, pickle-y sauce on the side as well.
Short Rib Rendang [$26.00] | Coconut Braise, Cilantro
Our final savory was one that clearly drew from Chef Thoma's Malaysian heritage. The beef had that fork-tender consistency I was seeking, while its dark, rich, robustly bovine flavors melded easily with both the coconut and the dish's heady spices.
Tres Leches [$12.00]
It was now time to get into dessert, the responsibility of Pastry Chef Rita Matinez, who'd actually been working with Dowling since at least 2020. First up was this pastel de tres leches, which shouldn't be surprising given that it's one of my favorite styles of cake. It had that spongey, saturated consistency I wanted, and its milky sweetness was joined by what I believe was coconut.
Espresso Martini [$15.00] | Vodka, Rum, Coffee Liqueur, Espresso
The night's final cocktail was a version of a vodka espresso, but incorporating rum. This gave the drink a sort of enhanced dark fruit quality that linked up pretty well with the otherwise smoky, bitter, roasty notes present.
Chocolate Pot De Créme [$12.00]
Here was a fairly by-the-book pot de crème, one that had its chocolate custard joined by some cookie-like pieces.
Ube Cheesecake [$12.00]
Last up was the cheesecake, a successful effort that brought together the signature sweetness of purple yam with this vanilla element that very clearly reminded me of Danish butter cookies.
I'm glad to report that Edgemar made for another successful birthday dinner. We were all generally pleased with the food, and the service largely met the mark as well, making this a welcomed restaurant addition to the neighborhood. That being said, I'd like to see the kitchen push things a bit further, since I think there's more potential here, so hopefully that'll come to fruition once Chef Thoma settles in to his new leadership role.
posted by kevinEats at
6:50 PM
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