Alinea x The Maybourne (Beverly Hills, CA)
Alinea at The Maybourne Beverly Hills
225 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310-860-7800
www.alinearestaurant.com / www.maybournebeverlyhills.com
Sat 08/16/2025, 04:45p-08:00p
I've said it before, but my first meal at Alinea back in '06 is probably the most formative of my life, as Grant Achatz and his team were really able to challenge my notions of what dining should be. The restaurant opened in May 2005, and as part of its 20th anniversary celebrations, is holding a series of pop-ups at various locations across the globe. Given the place's importance in my culinary journey, I knew that I had to attend. The tour kicked off at Olmsted in Brooklyn (March 20th to April 13th), then headed down to Miami's Faena hotel (April 30th to May 25th) before landing here in Los Angeles with a residency at the posh Maybourne hotel from July 23rd to August 16th (so yes, we were here on the last night). From LA, the Alinea team will then travel to Tokyo and operate out of the Mandarin Oriental in October, before returning back to the States and settling down in Big Sky, Montana over the winter.
Some of my dining companions had booked a suite at the hotel, and we thus enjoyed a preprandial drink in the form of the Hibiki 100th Anniversary Blend. A Japan-only release from 2023, this was composed of a base of 17-year-old whisky blended with 30-year-old Yamazaki mizunara cask malts and mature Chita grain whiskies. The nose here was teeming with tangy citrus, backed by a bit of woodsiness. Taking a sip, I found a pretty smooth palate with more citrus, as well as pome fruits, honey, and traces of that signature mizunara spiciness.
Modeled after a movie script, tonight's menu was perhaps the most creative I've ever encountered. Entitled "Alinea: Dinner in Eight Acts," it was inspired by eight iconic films, only one of which I'd actually seen (guess which one). As for pricing, we're talking $545 per person, plus mandatory 20% service charge, 9.75% tax, and $5 Tock order fee. Wine pairings were available at $195 (Reserve) and $345 (Gold) a head, while corkage was $125 a bottle, limit two. Click for larger versions.
ACT I – "MORE HUMAN THAN HUMAN"
INT. BAR – NIGHT
Dystopian Future. Food made uncanny.
Ref: Blade Runner (1982, dir. Ridley Scott)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
A future where reality is synthetic and pleasure is programmed. Engineering nostalgia. Familiar, but the soul is purposely removed.
After checking in near the hotel entrance, our experience began inside The Maybourne Bar, now bathed in blue light to give the space more of a cyberpunk feel.
DIALOGUE
THE BUSINESS | haku vodka, midori, sudachi, blue matcha ice
Upon entering, we were quickly handed a cocktail with a hue not unlike that of Ecto Cooler. Taste-wise, it was fairly straightforward, combining the sweetness of the melon liqueur with tarter citrus notes. More interesting was the butterfly pea flower-tinted matcha ice, which was meant to alter the color of the drink as it melted (this didn't happen for me, as apparently I consumed it too quickly!).
CLEAR HOT DOG | neon relish, sport pepper, tomato
My first amuse bouche was the quintessence of a Chicago-style hot dog rendered in gummy form, made possible due to the use of a rotary evaporator. What struck me here was how clearly and accurately each element of the classic Windy City dish was conveyed. I could pick out each individual ingredient, and they all coalesced beautifully to convey the familiar flavors of the traditional dog. Do also note that the bite was served on a postcard signed by Chef Achatz.
At this point, an actual dog (a poodle I believe) wandered in. I initially thought that it was part of the show, but it turns out that the pup was owned by someone living at one of The Maybourne Residences.
RAMEN EGG | miso, chicken, ginger
Next was a faux egg incorporating white miso, chicken broth, ramen noodle purée, and togarashi. It was a fun, nostalgic bite, really recalling the spice packets that came in the instant ramen packages of my childhood.
MICRO PIZZA | mozzarella, pepperoni, oregano
Finally, we have what may just be the world's small pizza, one that made me think of two more childhood treats: Jeno's frozen pizza and pepperoni-flavored Hot Pockets.
ACT II – "THE KITCHEN"
Behind the simulation.
Ref: Truman Show (1998, dir. Peter Weir)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
Chefs in real-time moving with mechanical precision. But something feels off. No acknowledgement of guests, just repetition, and exposure.
We were soon ushered out of the bar and made our way to the kitchen that's normally used to service The Terrace. While the cooks did a respectable job not acknowledging guests, as stated in the "script," the sprightly fellow pictured above did not ("last day vibes" according to him). Do also note the crew member on the left, who was here supporting the filming of tonight's activities. A fun fact: I once dined inside this very kitchen during opening night at Scarpetta, which used to occupy the space.
DIALOGUE
ACT III – "BLINKS"
EXT. TERRACE – NIGHT
Infinity, isolation, duality, and fracture.
Ref: The Fall (2006, dir. Tarsem Singh)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
Competing clarity, tension and release.
From the kitchen, we were quickly led outside into a mirrored area partitioned by curtains.
At this point, we popped open our first bottle, the 2005 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles (an '05 was chosen in honor of Alinea's 20th birthday). The Burgundy smelled pretty great, offering a rich, concentrated bouquet filled with bread and butter, while its palate was silken, with nuances of lemon-lime undergirded by a candied, almost caramel-y sweetness and still plenty of acidity. By Act IV, the nose became more buttery, with more fruitiness and spice to boot, and in terms of taste, again I found things fruiter, juicier, but with increased nuttiness and heat as well. The wine was drinking quite beautifully tonight, and has held up admirably after 20 years.
DIALOGUE
CAVIAR | regiis ova ossetra, pineapple, mezcal
Served in a custom-made "snake skin" bowl, our first course of the act was one of my favorites of the night, no doubt. I just loved how the salinity of that golden Osetra married with the tartness of the pineapple gel, the mezcal crema working to further bind both elements together.
"Whisky Cocktail" [$45.00]
During our time in the Blade Runner bar, we'd ordered some cocktails, but had to depart before they could be served, hence their appearance now. One of my dining companions requested a whiskey-based drink, and what we had here combined the spirit with touches of lemon and honey, and I believe saffron as well. I quite liked it, with the concoction's savory, herby, nutty, and oxidative elements coming together quite seamlessly.
CHAR CHARRED | arctic char, smoked char roe, carrot
Here was cured artic char, sous vide-d and then heavily seared skin side down, resulting in a sugary, saline, smoky eating experience that made me think of a fish candy bar. We were then instructed to flip the serving vessel over to reveal a commixture of sweet carrot, ginger, and a cream smoked with barrel staves.
"Tequila Cocktail" [$35.00]
El Tesoro Maybourne Edition Reposado was joined by orange purée, Calabrian chili, and fresh-squeezed lime juice to make for an intriguing drink with a distinctly vegetal, savory character and a healthy amount of spice on the finish.
PRAWNS | prawn noodle, chili-infused prawn tea
Prawn meat was dehydrated and turned into chip form, on top of which was poured a prawn "bouillabaisse" tea. The liquid helped dissolve the shards somewhat, resulting in an almost Fruit Roll-Up-esque consistency, while flavors were abashedly heady, demonstrating the essence of the shrimp in one of the clearest manners I've ever seen.
"Mezcal Cocktail" [$35.00]
This was essentially a mezcal sour of sorts, composed of the spirit along with fresh pineapple, lime juice, agave, mint, and a bit of Calabrian chile. I found the mezcal uncommonly smoky and astringent, though fortunately it was kept in check by all the drink's sweet, citrusy components.
CURDS & CURDS | goat cheese curds, cauliflower curds, garum masala
In our final course of the act, cheese curds were placed around a poached cauliflower stem, with the actual curds of the vegetable (the top portion) fried and combined with pistachio, cashew, and cashew butter, while a black sesame-boosted curry sauce was placed in a circle on the side. The key here was the interplay between, on one hand, the mild, creamy nature of the cauliflower and cheese, and on the other, the more aggressively nutty, curried, and sesame-fueled flavors present.
"Sherry Cocktail" [$50.00]
For my custom cocktail, I requested something Jerez-based, and was given this amalgam of sherry, bourbon, homemade ginger syrup, fresh pineapple, and a squeeze of lemon zest. Think soft and sweet and easy-going, but a bit too restrained for my liking, as I wanted the sherry character to be more apparent.
ACT IV – "BEYOND"
INT. MDR – NIGHT
Sacred light. Metamorphosis.
Ref: The Holy Mountain (1973, dir. Alejandro Jodorowsky)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
The soul flows between emotions.
After the curtains suddenly dropped in the preceding space, we were led into The Terrace's main dining room, awash with thick mist and violet light.
DIALOGUE
PEELED GRAPES | cucumber, charentais melon, extruded marcona almond
Our first course here was a bowl containing peeled grapes, honeydew and cucumber spheres, a Marcona almond extrusion piped with Marcona cream, cucumber, ice lettuce, and lemon balm. What stood out the most to me were those grapes, and then those almonds, and while the idea was to mimic a dry, soup-less white gazpacho (i.e. ajoblanco), the flavors didn't quite get there.
At this point, we were given a reprieve from the disconcerting lighting.
HOT POTATO–COLD POTATO | gourmet attitude périgord black truffle
As it's likely the most iconic dish to ever come out of the Alinea kitchen, I was expecting to see this next course make an appearance, and I'm glad it did. The interplay--taste, texture, temperature--between that hot, hearty potato, earthy truffle, and chilled potato soup was as spot-on as ever, making for a bite that was every bit as gratifying as I could've hoped for.
Intriguingly, the feathered table cloth we started with was quickly removed, revealing a table covered in what I believe was beeswax.
SKATE | a la meunière powdered, banana
Kicking off the orange-red phase of our meal was skate wing, prepared with a powdered meunière sauce (brown butter, lemon, parsley), accompanied by banana purée. The team was able to replicate the sensation of a classic meunière pretty well with this one, and those flavors certainly made sense with the fish. However, the crux here really was that banana, which proffered this fruitiness that meshed surprisingly well with the soft salinity of the skate.
Our second BYOB bottle was the 2005 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, which we decanted on recommendation of the sommelier. The wine showcased a massive nose brimming with sauvage, earth, smoke, and herb. Taking a sip, I found a healthy base of juicy red fruit, supported by elements of roasted meat, barnyard, and bouquet garni, while tannins were fine and the acidity agreeable. A big, brawny Burgundy that stood up to some of the more potent courses to follow.
7X RANCH RIBEYE | honeydew, lime, pink pepper
American Wagyu ribeye arrived accompanied by cucumber, honeydew, peanuts, lime "rocks," and tomato blossoms. The conceit was to recall the essence of a Cambodian beef salad, and I think the dish was successful in that regard. I especially enjoyed the overarching nuttiness present, as well as the back-and-forth between fruit and funk.
ACT V – "SOLACE"
INT. GARDEN – NIGHT
Convivial, eerie, blooming, wild, nostalgic.
Ref: What Dreams May Come (1998, dir. Vincent Ward)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
Joy remembered, with an undercurrent of unease.
We were then led upstairs to one of the hotel's event spaces (the Beverly room I believe), which had been given an "enchanted garden" sort of makeover.
DIALOGUE
CARBONIZED POMEGRANATE LILY | pistachio oil, jameed, aleppo chili
After being seated, I was soon handed a glass lily containing a pomegranate-pistachio sorbet, shaved cheese, and Aleppo chili pepper. This served as a bit of a palate cleanser, offering up a bevy of sour, savory flavors in a fun, refreshing package.
My plate held what appeared to be a bouquet resting atop dried pasta and a slice of bread. I expected these contents to be utilized later on in the meal, but alas, they were not.
BLACK COD | banana peppers, fennel, chamomile vapor
Our first "forest creature" was sablefish, served with fennel, caramelized fennel custard, crispy fennel, and a saffron-chamomile foam, all "enchanted" with a lemon-chamomile mist poured tableside for a nice aromatic touch. Not surprisingly, the fish ate as fatty and flaky as I was wanting, its richness well-tempered by the zing of fennel, and I liked the textural play provided by the crunchy bits, too.
SQUAB | wax strawberry, thai long pepper, rose petal jam
Here was pan-seared breast of squab and a leg rillettes, resting in a strawberry reduction, with pickled strawberry, a Thai long pepper-corn custard, and two different types of endive. There was a welcomed juxtaposition here between the more elegant character of the breast and the more in-your-face, dark-toned disposition of the long-cooked leg, while both meats paired surprisingly cleverly with the fruit. In addition, we were given a compression of white chocolate and beeswax, shaped like a strawberry but containing none of the fruit; for this one, think dense and waxy, with a candied, herby, almost "lotion-y" quality. Finally, our table's golden swan centerpiece held biscuits with strawberry-rosewater jam, but sadly, I forgot to give 'em a taste since I was too consumed by the overall experience.
BLACK TRUFFLE EXPLOSION | gourmet attitude périgord black truffle
It came as no shock to encounter another one of Alinea's most iconic dishes: a lone raviolo stuffed with truffle juice, topped with a slice of marinated truffle, sautéed lettuce, and Parmesan. We were told to eat this with our mouths shut, which was good advice, since it erupted as soon as I bit in, releasing a stream of salty, savory, truffle-infused liquid, moderated just enough by the relatively thick-skinned pasta.
OCEAN & EARTH | beef shortrib, seaweeds, shellfish
Our final course of Act V was meant to pay homage to both land and sea. On the plate was Australian Wagyu short rib, Japanese eggplant, and four different types of seaweed (nori, dulse, kombu, tosaka). All the components came together in a manner that conveyed loads of depth and umami, and humorously, actually reminded me of Chinese food somehow. Meanwhile, the small bowl on the side held a briny clam-mussel custard along with a woodsy hen-of-the-woods purée.
As our time in the "garden" came to a close, we were handed these fanciful cards imploring us to vamoose. Click for a larger version.
ACT VI – "HECATE"
INT – HALLWAY PASSAGE
Ref: The Witch (2015, dir. Robert Eggers)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
The liminal space between happiness and regret.
DIALOGUE
[Course Redacted]
We were then led through a nearly pitch-black hallway to an adjoining space...
ACT VII – "SHADOWS"
INT. PENUMBRA – NIGHT
Spotlight on emotion & confrontation.
Ref: All That Jazz (1979, dir. Bob Fosse)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
The performer strips away artifice, facing memory, regret, and self.
I believe this was the hotel's Wilshire room, transfigured via projected light and shadows.
DIALOGUE
FEAR FACTOR | pork belly, turnip, vanilla bean
Diners were instructed to punch through the tops of the tubes, then reach in and grab whatever happened to be sitting inside. What was sitting inside was a pork belly fritter, ingeniously enhanced by the incorporation of sweet, fragrant vanilla. My gripe here was that I would've liked the pork served warmer, with a crispier exterior.
ACT VIII – "EMBER"
ROB ROY | the macallan sherry oak 12 year, chocolate, truffle
As we made our way back to the ground floor, we were handed these cocktails. I have to say that the whisky really melded quite swimmingly with both the chocolate and the truffle, making for a boozy, yet cozy libation.
INT. ON SET OF THE MENU – NIGHT
Ref: The Menu (2022, dir. Mark Mylod)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
Nod to the commodification of art, the passivity of privilege, where critics critique what they cannot create.
Cocktails in hand, we stepped outside and walked over to the very front of the property, where we entered a retail space once occupied by Leor jewelers.
DIALOGUE
S'MORES | chocolate, graham cracker, marshmallow
Naturally, our experience wouldn't be complete without dessert plated directly on the table. Tonight's iteration did a surprisingly good job at capturing the classic flavors of a s'more, so the novelty here was really about concept and presentation. Always a fun one.
BALLOON | helium, green apple taffy, cinnamon
Unfortunately, I failed to capture a photo of this final course, as I was too caught up in the experience. We were told to "kiss" the balloon, inhale, and eat the remains, string and all, resulting in some high-pitched voices all around and a green apple character that was so clearly reminiscent of the Airheads candies I enjoyed as a child.
Since we were celebrating a birthday, we were given a bonus "Betty Crocker birthday cake in a bottle." This was a condensate of birthday cake in liquid form, created using a rotary evaporator, and essentially tasted like liquid frosting. Given its sheer sugariness, we ended up drinking most of it in diluted form.
FADE TO BLACK.
Wow, well this was certainly quite the experience, a meal very obviously unlike any other I've had. I do commend the team for their audacity and creativity, and even though I wasn't terribly familiar with the eight films referenced, I still appreciated the narrative aspect of the meal, as well as the communal nature of it all, with my fellow diners and I moving together from space to space in concert, taking it all in as a group. Now, there was indeed a noticeable drawback to this approach, and it was that I wasn't able to contemplate, to ruminate on the actual food as much as I normally would. This situation will hopefully be corrected next year, when I plan on returning to Alinea proper in Chicago to commemorate 20 years since my first meal there--I'll definitely be looking forward to that!
225 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310-860-7800
www.alinearestaurant.com / www.maybournebeverlyhills.com
Sat 08/16/2025, 04:45p-08:00p
I've said it before, but my first meal at Alinea back in '06 is probably the most formative of my life, as Grant Achatz and his team were really able to challenge my notions of what dining should be. The restaurant opened in May 2005, and as part of its 20th anniversary celebrations, is holding a series of pop-ups at various locations across the globe. Given the place's importance in my culinary journey, I knew that I had to attend. The tour kicked off at Olmsted in Brooklyn (March 20th to April 13th), then headed down to Miami's Faena hotel (April 30th to May 25th) before landing here in Los Angeles with a residency at the posh Maybourne hotel from July 23rd to August 16th (so yes, we were here on the last night). From LA, the Alinea team will then travel to Tokyo and operate out of the Mandarin Oriental in October, before returning back to the States and settling down in Big Sky, Montana over the winter.
Some of my dining companions had booked a suite at the hotel, and we thus enjoyed a preprandial drink in the form of the Hibiki 100th Anniversary Blend. A Japan-only release from 2023, this was composed of a base of 17-year-old whisky blended with 30-year-old Yamazaki mizunara cask malts and mature Chita grain whiskies. The nose here was teeming with tangy citrus, backed by a bit of woodsiness. Taking a sip, I found a pretty smooth palate with more citrus, as well as pome fruits, honey, and traces of that signature mizunara spiciness.
Modeled after a movie script, tonight's menu was perhaps the most creative I've ever encountered. Entitled "Alinea: Dinner in Eight Acts," it was inspired by eight iconic films, only one of which I'd actually seen (guess which one). As for pricing, we're talking $545 per person, plus mandatory 20% service charge, 9.75% tax, and $5 Tock order fee. Wine pairings were available at $195 (Reserve) and $345 (Gold) a head, while corkage was $125 a bottle, limit two. Click for larger versions.
ACT I – "MORE HUMAN THAN HUMAN"
INT. BAR – NIGHT
Dystopian Future. Food made uncanny.
Ref: Blade Runner (1982, dir. Ridley Scott)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
A future where reality is synthetic and pleasure is programmed. Engineering nostalgia. Familiar, but the soul is purposely removed.
After checking in near the hotel entrance, our experience began inside The Maybourne Bar, now bathed in blue light to give the space more of a cyberpunk feel.
DIALOGUE
THE BUSINESS | haku vodka, midori, sudachi, blue matcha ice
Upon entering, we were quickly handed a cocktail with a hue not unlike that of Ecto Cooler. Taste-wise, it was fairly straightforward, combining the sweetness of the melon liqueur with tarter citrus notes. More interesting was the butterfly pea flower-tinted matcha ice, which was meant to alter the color of the drink as it melted (this didn't happen for me, as apparently I consumed it too quickly!).
CLEAR HOT DOG | neon relish, sport pepper, tomato
My first amuse bouche was the quintessence of a Chicago-style hot dog rendered in gummy form, made possible due to the use of a rotary evaporator. What struck me here was how clearly and accurately each element of the classic Windy City dish was conveyed. I could pick out each individual ingredient, and they all coalesced beautifully to convey the familiar flavors of the traditional dog. Do also note that the bite was served on a postcard signed by Chef Achatz.
At this point, an actual dog (a poodle I believe) wandered in. I initially thought that it was part of the show, but it turns out that the pup was owned by someone living at one of The Maybourne Residences.
RAMEN EGG | miso, chicken, ginger
Next was a faux egg incorporating white miso, chicken broth, ramen noodle purée, and togarashi. It was a fun, nostalgic bite, really recalling the spice packets that came in the instant ramen packages of my childhood.
MICRO PIZZA | mozzarella, pepperoni, oregano
Finally, we have what may just be the world's small pizza, one that made me think of two more childhood treats: Jeno's frozen pizza and pepperoni-flavored Hot Pockets.
ACT II – "THE KITCHEN"
Behind the simulation.
Ref: Truman Show (1998, dir. Peter Weir)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
Chefs in real-time moving with mechanical precision. But something feels off. No acknowledgement of guests, just repetition, and exposure.
We were soon ushered out of the bar and made our way to the kitchen that's normally used to service The Terrace. While the cooks did a respectable job not acknowledging guests, as stated in the "script," the sprightly fellow pictured above did not ("last day vibes" according to him). Do also note the crew member on the left, who was here supporting the filming of tonight's activities. A fun fact: I once dined inside this very kitchen during opening night at Scarpetta, which used to occupy the space.
ACT III – "BLINKS"
EXT. TERRACE – NIGHT
Infinity, isolation, duality, and fracture.
Ref: The Fall (2006, dir. Tarsem Singh)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
Competing clarity, tension and release.
From the kitchen, we were quickly led outside into a mirrored area partitioned by curtains.
At this point, we popped open our first bottle, the 2005 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles (an '05 was chosen in honor of Alinea's 20th birthday). The Burgundy smelled pretty great, offering a rich, concentrated bouquet filled with bread and butter, while its palate was silken, with nuances of lemon-lime undergirded by a candied, almost caramel-y sweetness and still plenty of acidity. By Act IV, the nose became more buttery, with more fruitiness and spice to boot, and in terms of taste, again I found things fruiter, juicier, but with increased nuttiness and heat as well. The wine was drinking quite beautifully tonight, and has held up admirably after 20 years.
DIALOGUE
CAVIAR | regiis ova ossetra, pineapple, mezcal
Served in a custom-made "snake skin" bowl, our first course of the act was one of my favorites of the night, no doubt. I just loved how the salinity of that golden Osetra married with the tartness of the pineapple gel, the mezcal crema working to further bind both elements together.
"Whisky Cocktail" [$45.00]
During our time in the Blade Runner bar, we'd ordered some cocktails, but had to depart before they could be served, hence their appearance now. One of my dining companions requested a whiskey-based drink, and what we had here combined the spirit with touches of lemon and honey, and I believe saffron as well. I quite liked it, with the concoction's savory, herby, nutty, and oxidative elements coming together quite seamlessly.
CHAR CHARRED | arctic char, smoked char roe, carrot
Here was cured artic char, sous vide-d and then heavily seared skin side down, resulting in a sugary, saline, smoky eating experience that made me think of a fish candy bar. We were then instructed to flip the serving vessel over to reveal a commixture of sweet carrot, ginger, and a cream smoked with barrel staves.
"Tequila Cocktail" [$35.00]
El Tesoro Maybourne Edition Reposado was joined by orange purée, Calabrian chili, and fresh-squeezed lime juice to make for an intriguing drink with a distinctly vegetal, savory character and a healthy amount of spice on the finish.
PRAWNS | prawn noodle, chili-infused prawn tea
Prawn meat was dehydrated and turned into chip form, on top of which was poured a prawn "bouillabaisse" tea. The liquid helped dissolve the shards somewhat, resulting in an almost Fruit Roll-Up-esque consistency, while flavors were abashedly heady, demonstrating the essence of the shrimp in one of the clearest manners I've ever seen.
"Mezcal Cocktail" [$35.00]
This was essentially a mezcal sour of sorts, composed of the spirit along with fresh pineapple, lime juice, agave, mint, and a bit of Calabrian chile. I found the mezcal uncommonly smoky and astringent, though fortunately it was kept in check by all the drink's sweet, citrusy components.
CURDS & CURDS | goat cheese curds, cauliflower curds, garum masala
In our final course of the act, cheese curds were placed around a poached cauliflower stem, with the actual curds of the vegetable (the top portion) fried and combined with pistachio, cashew, and cashew butter, while a black sesame-boosted curry sauce was placed in a circle on the side. The key here was the interplay between, on one hand, the mild, creamy nature of the cauliflower and cheese, and on the other, the more aggressively nutty, curried, and sesame-fueled flavors present.
"Sherry Cocktail" [$50.00]
For my custom cocktail, I requested something Jerez-based, and was given this amalgam of sherry, bourbon, homemade ginger syrup, fresh pineapple, and a squeeze of lemon zest. Think soft and sweet and easy-going, but a bit too restrained for my liking, as I wanted the sherry character to be more apparent.
ACT IV – "BEYOND"
INT. MDR – NIGHT
Sacred light. Metamorphosis.
Ref: The Holy Mountain (1973, dir. Alejandro Jodorowsky)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
The soul flows between emotions.
After the curtains suddenly dropped in the preceding space, we were led into The Terrace's main dining room, awash with thick mist and violet light.
DIALOGUE
PEELED GRAPES | cucumber, charentais melon, extruded marcona almond
Our first course here was a bowl containing peeled grapes, honeydew and cucumber spheres, a Marcona almond extrusion piped with Marcona cream, cucumber, ice lettuce, and lemon balm. What stood out the most to me were those grapes, and then those almonds, and while the idea was to mimic a dry, soup-less white gazpacho (i.e. ajoblanco), the flavors didn't quite get there.
At this point, we were given a reprieve from the disconcerting lighting.
HOT POTATO–COLD POTATO | gourmet attitude périgord black truffle
As it's likely the most iconic dish to ever come out of the Alinea kitchen, I was expecting to see this next course make an appearance, and I'm glad it did. The interplay--taste, texture, temperature--between that hot, hearty potato, earthy truffle, and chilled potato soup was as spot-on as ever, making for a bite that was every bit as gratifying as I could've hoped for.
Intriguingly, the feathered table cloth we started with was quickly removed, revealing a table covered in what I believe was beeswax.
SKATE | a la meunière powdered, banana
Kicking off the orange-red phase of our meal was skate wing, prepared with a powdered meunière sauce (brown butter, lemon, parsley), accompanied by banana purée. The team was able to replicate the sensation of a classic meunière pretty well with this one, and those flavors certainly made sense with the fish. However, the crux here really was that banana, which proffered this fruitiness that meshed surprisingly well with the soft salinity of the skate.
Our second BYOB bottle was the 2005 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, which we decanted on recommendation of the sommelier. The wine showcased a massive nose brimming with sauvage, earth, smoke, and herb. Taking a sip, I found a healthy base of juicy red fruit, supported by elements of roasted meat, barnyard, and bouquet garni, while tannins were fine and the acidity agreeable. A big, brawny Burgundy that stood up to some of the more potent courses to follow.
7X RANCH RIBEYE | honeydew, lime, pink pepper
American Wagyu ribeye arrived accompanied by cucumber, honeydew, peanuts, lime "rocks," and tomato blossoms. The conceit was to recall the essence of a Cambodian beef salad, and I think the dish was successful in that regard. I especially enjoyed the overarching nuttiness present, as well as the back-and-forth between fruit and funk.
ACT V – "SOLACE"
INT. GARDEN – NIGHT
Convivial, eerie, blooming, wild, nostalgic.
Ref: What Dreams May Come (1998, dir. Vincent Ward)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
Joy remembered, with an undercurrent of unease.
We were then led upstairs to one of the hotel's event spaces (the Beverly room I believe), which had been given an "enchanted garden" sort of makeover.
DIALOGUE
CARBONIZED POMEGRANATE LILY | pistachio oil, jameed, aleppo chili
After being seated, I was soon handed a glass lily containing a pomegranate-pistachio sorbet, shaved cheese, and Aleppo chili pepper. This served as a bit of a palate cleanser, offering up a bevy of sour, savory flavors in a fun, refreshing package.
My plate held what appeared to be a bouquet resting atop dried pasta and a slice of bread. I expected these contents to be utilized later on in the meal, but alas, they were not.
BLACK COD | banana peppers, fennel, chamomile vapor
Our first "forest creature" was sablefish, served with fennel, caramelized fennel custard, crispy fennel, and a saffron-chamomile foam, all "enchanted" with a lemon-chamomile mist poured tableside for a nice aromatic touch. Not surprisingly, the fish ate as fatty and flaky as I was wanting, its richness well-tempered by the zing of fennel, and I liked the textural play provided by the crunchy bits, too.
SQUAB | wax strawberry, thai long pepper, rose petal jam
Here was pan-seared breast of squab and a leg rillettes, resting in a strawberry reduction, with pickled strawberry, a Thai long pepper-corn custard, and two different types of endive. There was a welcomed juxtaposition here between the more elegant character of the breast and the more in-your-face, dark-toned disposition of the long-cooked leg, while both meats paired surprisingly cleverly with the fruit. In addition, we were given a compression of white chocolate and beeswax, shaped like a strawberry but containing none of the fruit; for this one, think dense and waxy, with a candied, herby, almost "lotion-y" quality. Finally, our table's golden swan centerpiece held biscuits with strawberry-rosewater jam, but sadly, I forgot to give 'em a taste since I was too consumed by the overall experience.
BLACK TRUFFLE EXPLOSION | gourmet attitude périgord black truffle
It came as no shock to encounter another one of Alinea's most iconic dishes: a lone raviolo stuffed with truffle juice, topped with a slice of marinated truffle, sautéed lettuce, and Parmesan. We were told to eat this with our mouths shut, which was good advice, since it erupted as soon as I bit in, releasing a stream of salty, savory, truffle-infused liquid, moderated just enough by the relatively thick-skinned pasta.
OCEAN & EARTH | beef shortrib, seaweeds, shellfish
Our final course of Act V was meant to pay homage to both land and sea. On the plate was Australian Wagyu short rib, Japanese eggplant, and four different types of seaweed (nori, dulse, kombu, tosaka). All the components came together in a manner that conveyed loads of depth and umami, and humorously, actually reminded me of Chinese food somehow. Meanwhile, the small bowl on the side held a briny clam-mussel custard along with a woodsy hen-of-the-woods purée.
As our time in the "garden" came to a close, we were handed these fanciful cards imploring us to vamoose. Click for a larger version.
ACT VI – "HECATE"
INT – HALLWAY PASSAGE
Ref: The Witch (2015, dir. Robert Eggers)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
The liminal space between happiness and regret.
DIALOGUE
[Course Redacted]
We were then led through a nearly pitch-black hallway to an adjoining space...
ACT VII – "SHADOWS"
INT. PENUMBRA – NIGHT
Spotlight on emotion & confrontation.
Ref: All That Jazz (1979, dir. Bob Fosse)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
The performer strips away artifice, facing memory, regret, and self.
I believe this was the hotel's Wilshire room, transfigured via projected light and shadows.
DIALOGUE
FEAR FACTOR | pork belly, turnip, vanilla bean
Diners were instructed to punch through the tops of the tubes, then reach in and grab whatever happened to be sitting inside. What was sitting inside was a pork belly fritter, ingeniously enhanced by the incorporation of sweet, fragrant vanilla. My gripe here was that I would've liked the pork served warmer, with a crispier exterior.
ACT VIII – "EMBER"
ROB ROY | the macallan sherry oak 12 year, chocolate, truffle
As we made our way back to the ground floor, we were handed these cocktails. I have to say that the whisky really melded quite swimmingly with both the chocolate and the truffle, making for a boozy, yet cozy libation.
INT. ON SET OF THE MENU – NIGHT
Ref: The Menu (2022, dir. Mark Mylod)
SCENE DESCRIPTION
Nod to the commodification of art, the passivity of privilege, where critics critique what they cannot create.
Cocktails in hand, we stepped outside and walked over to the very front of the property, where we entered a retail space once occupied by Leor jewelers.
DIALOGUE
S'MORES | chocolate, graham cracker, marshmallow
Naturally, our experience wouldn't be complete without dessert plated directly on the table. Tonight's iteration did a surprisingly good job at capturing the classic flavors of a s'more, so the novelty here was really about concept and presentation. Always a fun one.
BALLOON | helium, green apple taffy, cinnamon
Unfortunately, I failed to capture a photo of this final course, as I was too caught up in the experience. We were told to "kiss" the balloon, inhale, and eat the remains, string and all, resulting in some high-pitched voices all around and a green apple character that was so clearly reminiscent of the Airheads candies I enjoyed as a child.
Since we were celebrating a birthday, we were given a bonus "Betty Crocker birthday cake in a bottle." This was a condensate of birthday cake in liquid form, created using a rotary evaporator, and essentially tasted like liquid frosting. Given its sheer sugariness, we ended up drinking most of it in diluted form.
FADE TO BLACK.
Wow, well this was certainly quite the experience, a meal very obviously unlike any other I've had. I do commend the team for their audacity and creativity, and even though I wasn't terribly familiar with the eight films referenced, I still appreciated the narrative aspect of the meal, as well as the communal nature of it all, with my fellow diners and I moving together from space to space in concert, taking it all in as a group. Now, there was indeed a noticeable drawback to this approach, and it was that I wasn't able to contemplate, to ruminate on the actual food as much as I normally would. This situation will hopefully be corrected next year, when I plan on returning to Alinea proper in Chicago to commemorate 20 years since my first meal there--I'll definitely be looking forward to that!
posted by kevinEats at
4:45 PM
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