Fat of the Land (Santa Ana, CA)

Fat of the Land Restaurant
700 N Main St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
714-486-2372
www.fatofthelandbar.com
Thu 11/20/2025, 07:15p-09:30p





In terms of Orange County dining, Downtown Santa Ana has been one of the bright spots over the past decade or so, and one of the newest entrants is Fat of the Land. The tapas-ish spot is the creation of Robert Paetz III, an OC native who's spent most of his career in the wedding and travel photography business. In 2022, he decided that he wanted to open his own restaurant, and thus got to work, recruiting Chef Van Duong (Lido Bottle Works in Newport Beach, Stowaway in Tustin) in the process and eventually grand-opening on March 27th, 2024.


The restaurant takes over a DTSA storefront that was previously home to a Subway, and was part of California Coast University before that. It's a cozy, compact space, with room for around two dozen.


Here we see Fat of the Land's menu, a relatively brief affair that definitely leans Spanish. Beverage-wise, you'll find a small wine list focused on Spain and other parts of the Old World, along with a handful of low-ABV cocktails and a respectable selection of European beers. Corkage is $35. Click for larger versions.


Soon after I sat down, a complimentary serving of Marcona almonds was provided--perfect to munch on while perusing the menu.


Bread + Ham Butter [$8.00]
Bread service comprised sourdough and baguette, accompanied by a delightful butter than make me think of cream cheese dotted with pickle-y bits.


To drink, I BYOB'd the 2006 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia, composed of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 5% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo. The wine showed off an invitingly robust nose filled with red fruit and sweet spices. On the palate, I found smooth tannins, subdued acidity, and plenty of tart berries, all joined by a lovely spiciness and nuances of oak and earth. This was drinking beautifully tonight--a real crowd pleaser.


Burrata [$17.00] | Delicata Squash, Pepitas, Autumn Vinaigrette
Burrata was as cool and creamy as I was anticipating, the cheese's sweetly lactic character serving as a fitting foil to the nutty, autumnal flavors from the winter squash.


Gambas al Ajillo [$21.00] | Shrimp, Garlic, Chili, Parsley
Prawns arrived firm and plump, and demonstrated a palpable brininess that linked up well with the dish's spicy, garlicky notes.


Braised Mushroom [$19.00] | Onsen Egg, Chimichurri, Shallot
Next came what might be my favorite dish of the meal. The 'shrooms were great texturally, and their woodsy qualities were boosted by the in-your-face savoriness of those crispy fried shallots, all while the greenery brightened things up. Of course, we can't forget about that runny egg, which proffered an enveloping lushness that really tied everything together.


Galician Octopus [$32.00] | Romesco, Mojo Vinaigrette
Octo is almost always a must-order for me, and tonight's version didn't disappoint. The pulpo came out tender, but with just enough of a chew, while its subtly sweet-saline flavors made sense with the one-two punch of tangy mojo and nutty romesco.


Piquillo Peppers [$20.00] | Iberian pork, Fennel Slaw
Here, a stuffing of Ibérico pork featured some mouthwatering seasoning that meshed seamlessly with the sweet-piquancy from those piquillo wrappers. At the same time, the fennel offered a crunch and anise-y kick that functioned as a consummate counterpoint. Another standout for me.


A couple sitting at another table was kind enough to provide a taste of the 2002 Dominique Laurent Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Beaumonts Vieilles Vignes that they'd brought. The wine highlighted a bouquet filled with red fruit, funk, spice, and savor. In the mouth, I got silky tannins and a core of sweet, ripe berries, supported by layers of spice and hints of earth. It was quite nice to be able to compare this back-to-back with the Rioja above.


Steak Tartare [$22.00] | Multigrain bread, Capers, Parmesan, Shallot
The beef tartare was on point. The steak was what I wanted texturally, and melded easily with the additional salt and savor from the Parmigiano Reggiano. Simultaneously, the tartness of the capers worked for contrast, as did the dish's crunchy, nutty bread base.


Rack of Pork [$54.00] | Campo Grande Iberico, Roasted Onion
The costillar de cerdo ibérico was a winner as well. The pork really met the mark in terms of tenderness and juiciness, and possessed a healthy sear to boot, while its elegantly porcine flavors matched up swimmingly with the zestiness of those onions.


Basque Cheesecake [$12.00]
A tarta de queso vasca served as a fitting closer to the meal. It was a tasty rendition of the modern classic dessert, though I would've liked some more aggressive smoke and bitterness to counteract the sheer richness of the cake.

I'd only found out about Fat of the Land relatively recently, and I wasn't quite sure what to expect coming in here, but I must say that I left very pleasantly surprised. Chef Duong's Spain-centric European cookery delivered in spades tonight, and there was just a palpable precision, a sense of intention with the food. This is a great addition to the Orange County dining scene, and one that I imagine will become a go-to of mine in the area.