Tsubaki (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

Tsubaki Restaurant
1356 Allison Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90026
213-900-4900
www.tsubakila.com
Tue 10/07/2025, 07:50p-09:35p





Ever since opening in February 2017, Tsubaki (ツバキ, meaning camellia) has become perhaps my most recommended spot in Echo Park thanks to its tasty takes on Cal-inflected izakaya cuisine. Given that the last time I posted about the restaurant was during the pandemic, I figured it might be time to check in and see how things were going. If you recall, the place is the creation of the husband-and-wife team of Chef Charles Namba and Courtney Kaplan, the duo also responsible for Ototo next door, as well as Camélia in the Arts District (which resulted in "Best Chef: California" semifinalist status from James Beard and a "Best New Restaurant" nod from Bon Appétit).


Tsubaki's menu features an array of Japanese-ish drinking fare, both traditional and not-so-traditional, while drink-wise, Kaplan's put together a small list of sakes supported by further offerings of umeshu, beer, and mostly French wine. Click for larger versions.


Dinner commenced with a complimentary serving of pickled Brussels sprouts, which were quite firm to the bite and showed off an assertive astringency finished by the heat from chili threads and what I believe was sansho.


kanpachi crudo [$30.00] | ume ponzu, shiso, sweet onion + habanero pickles, furikake
Shards of amberjack arrived gratifyingly meaty, demonstrating a palpable brine that worked hand-in-hand with the zippiness of that plum-boosted ponzu. I also appreciated the additional savoriness from the furikake, while shiso imparted an overarching mintiness that brightened things up.


japanese latkes [$28.00] | with salmon crudo, 'iburi gakko' daikon pickles, yuzu crème fraîche
I'm a sucker for potatoes, so this was definitely a must-try for me. The pancakes were as homey as I was hoping for, serving as an effective foil to the headier qualities of smoky pickles, salty roe, and lush dices of salmon.


Sake seems to be the beverage of choice here, hence my pick of the rihaku 'origin of purity' junmai ginjo nama genshu [$92], hailing from Shimane Prefecture. Made with Omachi rice polished to a seimaibuai of 55%, this smelled fresh, fruity, flowery, and quite inviting, with some almost bubble gum-esque aromas. On the palate, I found the namazake relatively soft, its sweet, tropical flavors supported by a spicy underpinning and hints of roast. Quite nice.


hiramasa crudo [$32.00] | japanese king fish, watermelon radish, yuzu caper dressing
Yellowtail kingfish was a joy texturally, and was well-matched by the piquancy of that caper-yuzu combo. At the same time, the inclusion of radish and seaweed acted as further counterpoints to the fish, keeping things interesting.


eringii kushiyaki [$15.00] | king trumpet mushroom skewers, garlic koji miso + charred bell pepper relish
Given my proclivity for king oyster mushrooms, I was looking forward to this next dish, and it didn't disappoint. The 'shrooms had that hearty, "snappy" mouthfeel I was seeking, and the plethora of smoky and umami notes present juxtaposed beautifully with the zing of that bell pepper.


'mapo' sukui tofu [$19.00] | meiji supreme tofu, tobanjan, house taberu rayu, myoga
I generally gravitate towards "mapo" anything, and tonight was no exception. I was a fan of the dish's super aggressive heat and garlickiness, perked up by the punch of scallions and Japanese ginger, with the cool, mild tofu functioning to moderate everything.


kyabetsu miso-kushiyaki [$14.00] | market cabbage skewers, caramelized tokyo negi-miso butter
At this point, I think it's safe to say that cabbage is one of my favorite vegetables, so naturally, I had to give this skewer a try. Thankfully, it didn't let me down. The interplay between bitterness and char made a lot of sense, and contrasted swimmingly with the sweet depth of that miso. Nice crunch on the cabbage, too.


bonchiri [$7.00] | chicken tail
Bonjiri is undoubtedly one of my go-to skewers when it comes to yakitori, so I was glad to see it on the menu tonight. The tail was as succulent and fatty and full-flavored as I was hoping for, and had just enough sear to keep things in check.


sakana shio-yaki [$24.00] | grilled branzino filet, ponzu, lotus root pickle
The loup de mer was on point as well, coming out properly juicy and saline, imbued with the right amount of smoke and boasting a crispy, salty skin to boot. Meanwhile, those crunchy, vinegary, slightly hot cuts of renkon operated as a counterweight to the fish.


wagyu kushiyaki [$26.00] | A5 miyazaki wagyu skewer, black lava sea salt
Not surprisingly, Japanese wagyu made for some of the richest, fattiest, most decadent bites of the night, with the beef tempered just a touch by sear and salt.


soriresu [$18.00] | chicken oysters
Chicken oyster is yet another yakitori favorite of mine. I was a big fan of cut's multifaceted texture, while its robust flavors meshed wonderfully with both the smoke and the sting of yuzukosho.


buta rosu shio koji-yaki [$34.00] | koji honey peads + barnetts pork loin, parsnip artichoke puree, apple mustard
A koji-enhanced pork loin was more interesting than most, both in terms of taste and texture, and arrived with a healthy char. The tanginess of the mustard was crucial for me, and I didn't mind that sweet-n-sour salad on the side, either.


yaki-onigiri [$14.00] | charcoal-grilled golden sesame rice balls, sesame cucumber pickles
The onigiri were pretty great, delivering all the roasty, toasty, ricey goodness I could hope for, along with some delectable seaweed-y notes as well.


short ribs nanban-style [$45.00] | with market squash, mixed beets, pearl onions, jujube sweet + sour glaze
A nanbanzuke-inspired preparation of short rib showed off a falling-apart, fork-tender texture, while its dark-toned beefiness was accompanied by plenty of sweet and sour, along with a smidge of smoke. Also key here were the veggies, especially the zestiness of those onions, and I liked how the squash tended to soak up all the flavors going on.


Here we see Tsubaki's dessert menu, along with the restaurant's after-dinner drink offerings. Click for a larger version.


yuzu panna cotta [$16.00] | with andy's orchard peach, marigold, bubu arare pearls
I could've used a smoother, silkier consistency on the panna cotta, but it delivered in the taste department, really conveying the essence of yuzu in manner that jibed with the sugarier nature of the peach. I was quite a fan of those crunchy, nutty, rice cracker-y bits, too.

It's been years since I had a proper meal at Tsubaki, and I'm happy to be back. Food-wise, things were pretty much spot-on, and I think the kitchen does an admirable job combining classical Japanese cookery with a healthy dosing of SoCal sensibility. The end result is no doubt one of my favorite izakayas in all of LA, and I'm sure that I'll eventually make my way back here.