Friday, September 26, 2025

Trust (Santa Ana, CA) [2]

Trust DTSA
220 E 4th St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
714-732-0598
www.trustdtsa.com
Fri 09/26/2025, 08:30p-11:30p




Trust Kitchen Exterior

Last October, I dined at Trust in Downtown Santa Ana to pay farewell to Chef Justin Werner and Tricia Chambers, just days before their final dinner service. Soon after the duo's departure, they were replaced by Chef Kyle McClelland and sommelier-slash-FOH lead Lehena Leplus, probably most known around these parts for their work at Saltie Girl. However, it was recently announced that the pair's last night here would be October 11th, as they're planning on heading back to New England to start a version of Trust Kitchen out east. Thus, given their impending exit, I made sure to prioritize a visit before it was too late.

About the Chef: Kyle Ryan McClelland was born in November 1980 in Dover, New Hampshire and spent his childhood in Londonderry. He became interested in food early on, and when he was 16, got his first restaurant job at the nearby Bedford Village Inn, where he worked until graduating from Londonderry High School in 1999. He then attended the French Culinary Institute in New York City, attaining his Grand Diploma in 2001 after just nine months, during which time he staged at the likes of Jean Georges, Windows on the World, and Union Pacific.

Following, McClelland moved to Boston, working at places such as Clio, Pigalle, and the MFA. He was sous chef at Ambrosia on Huntington, then spent three years under mentor David Daniels at The Federalist inside the XV Beacon Hotel. From there, he became executive sous at Ten Tables in Jamaica Plain, but didn't stay too long, as he was recruited in 2005 by Daniels to work at Topper's at The Wauwinet on Nantucket Island. There, he rose to the level of CdC before decamping in October 2008 for an EC post at NYC's Caviar Russe, which lasted until May 2010.

Afterward, he was recruited by Michael Martensen (a coworker from Topper's) to take over the kitchen at The Cedars Social in Dallas, which had opened in May 2011. McClelland stayed until the following June, then moved back to New York to open Prospect in Brooklyn as a co-owner. The place debuted in September 2012, but the Chef was out the door by the start of January 2014. He then went back to Dallas to serve as Executive Chef at seafood spot Driftwood, which had just been taken over by Misery Loves Company, a new hospitality group formed by Driftwood co-founder Sal Jafar II and, once again, Mike Martensen. During this period, McClelland also appeared on an episode of Chopped.

McClelland was soon tasked to run the kitchen at MLC's new Proof + Pantry, which bowed in August 2014. In 2015, he started work on developing the menu for Madrina, an upcoming French-inflected Mexican concept from MLC, but left before the spot opened in September that year. His next move was to Vicini in Frisco (part of the DFW metro area); he actually opened the Italian-American restaurant in early 2016, but ended up returning to Boston in April. The reason for the switch-up was Saltie Girl, a new seafood-focused project he created with restauranteur Kathy Sidell Trustman. The Back Bay spot opened in June 2016, and quickly started racking up accolades.

When the pandemic struck, the restaurant actually moved to a larger space right next door (the former home of Met Back Bay), and the team experimented with concepts such as Saltie Girl Seafood Pizza and Pêche by Saltie Girl. Saltie Girl then expanded to London's posh Mayfair neighborhood in November 2022 (it closed in February 2024), while a West Hollywood location dropped just weeks later. In April 2023, McClelland appeared on an episode of Food Network's Beat Bobby Flay, but wound up leaving Saltie Girl in early 2024.

As mentioned above, the Chef is joined by Léhéna Leplus, his partner in both business and life. Leplus was born in the coastal city of Biarritz, France, but grew up in Carmel, on California's Central Coast. In 2007, she began attending classes at La Sorbonne in Paris, but completed her education in June 2010 within the UC system, during which time she also worked as a cocktail server at Lattitudes at Lover's Point in Pacific Grove. In September 2010, she took on a similar position at Pebble Beach Resorts, and towards the end of her tenure there, attained Certified Sommelier status from the Court of Master Sommeliers.

September 2014 saw Leplus move to Irving, Texas for a bartending post at the Four Seasons. She remained there until early 2016, when she relocated to the Boston location of Four Seasons, though she didn't stay long, soon becoming GM of Saltie Girl once it opened. In September 2022, she moved to Los Angeles to run the FOH at the WeHo location of Saltie Girl. That continued until January 2024, and in September last year, Leplus and McClelland joined the team here at Trust.

Trust Kitchen Interior
Decor-wise, things really haven't changed much inside the 18-seater "culinary theater," nor do they need to. Shown above is the view from my seat, third from the left. Tonight's Trust Dinner Party menu was priced at $250 a head, inclusive of tax, tip, and wine pairing, though there was also a 3% "credit card processing fee" charged by Tock.

NV Victorine de Chastenay Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé
As usual, we commenced with an apéritif, this time in the form of the NV Victorine de Chastenay Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé. Made entirely from Pinot noir, the sparkling wine demonstrated a somewhat muted nose of bright red fruit, while the palate was crisp and vivacious, with more of those red berry flavors commixed with subdued citrus and minerals.

Brioche
1: Brioche
Bread service comprised a fluffy, sea salt-sprinkled housemade brioche paired with a delectable mini-quenelle of whipped cultured butter.

Butter Lettuce Salad
2: Butter Lettuce Salad
Our requisite salad course featured delightfully-textured leaves of field butterhead lettuce complemented by a lovely smoke from chargrilled Hass avocado and Turlock asparagus. Further components included grated pecorino and cured egg yolk, which imparted a welcome salty-savor to the dish, while a "green goddess buttermilk ranch" dressing incorporating Greek yogurt did an admirable job tying everything together.

2024 Russell Joyce Le Blanc
Next to imbibe was the 2024 Russell Joyce Le Blanc, a blend of Vermentino, Chenin blanc, and Sauvignon blanc from Arroyo Seco in Monterey County. The wine definitely went in an aromatic direction, with its bouquet of tropical fruit and citrus undergirded by an apparent minerality. Taste-wise, I found ripe orchard fruits commingled with saline, hints of nuttiness, and a touch of funk.

Marinated Tomatoes
3: Marinated Tomatoes
Vine-ripened tomatoes were marinated in sherry vinegar and olive oil, giving the fruit a tartness that juxtaposed beautifully with the creamy, delicate saltiness of homemade ricotta. For sweetness, overripe last-of-season peaches were turned into a marmellata, and Honeycrisp apples were also incorporated, while further accents came in the form of farmers' market basil and 15-year-old aged balsamic. However, my favorite ingredient here was probably that crispy quinoa, which contributed a wonderfully nutty crunch.

Dry-Aged Kanpachi Crudo
4: Dry-Aged Kanpachi Crudo
Hawaiian kampachi was dry-aged, resulting in buttery, delicate-yet-potent slices of amberjack that were a treat texturally. The fish was set in a tomato water (made from scraps from the course above along with salt and basil), and I also appreciated the contrasting smoky depth provided by the roasted leek oil and smoked trout roe. Meanwhile, brightening things up were tangy pickled veggies as well as some minty shiso leaves, which really made themselves known on the finish.

2023 La Spinetta Timorasso Colli Tortonesi Derthona
Our second white wine was the 2023 La Spinetta Timorasso Colli Tortonesi Derthona, from Italy's Piedmont region. Aromas here were all about lush stone fruits and light florals supported by a distinct minerality. Taking a sip, I got more of those fruity notes backed by citric nuances and a palpable saline element.

Cornbread Madeleine
5: Cornbread Madeleine
Fresh-baked corn madeleines were spot-on, really demonstrating the sweetness of the maize in a moist, gritty package. A corn sauce further emphasized those flavors, while Kendall Farms crème fraîche and a dollop of Kaluga caviar served as creamy-salty counterpoints that really completed the equation. I could've easily popped a few more of these guys.

Kyle McClelland, Kyle Romanowski
Here we see Chef McClelland at work, assisted by his second-in-command Kyle Romanowski (Porch & Swing, Knife Pleat, Marché Moderne).

Seared Scallops
6: Seared Scallops
Hokkaido hotate arrived supple and saline, with a healthy sear to boot, and were smartly accompanied by a trio of ingredients that really conveyed the fall season: celery root purée, caramelized salsify, and most importantly, Brussels sprout leaves, which offered a bitterness that married superbly with the scallops.

2023 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso
The evening's first red was the 2023 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso, a blend of 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio. This one smelled of jammy red fruits and subdued florals. In the mouth, I found the Sicilian wine tangy and tannic, with more of those red berries mixing it up with spicier nuances and traces of mineral.

Grilled Dry-Aged Trout
7: Grilled Dry-Aged Trout
Six-day dry-aged Mt. Lassen trout was charcoal-grilled to achieve an extra-crispy skin, then served with roasted cherry tomatoes and broccoli stems cooked with brown butter. Those broccoli stems and charred tomatoes were also folded into a brown butter sauce that incorporated both binchotan to add a smoky element as well as yuzu for a citrusy twang. The end result was unlike any other preparation of trout I've had before, and curiously enough, actually reminded me of yakitori.

Casoncelli Quattro Formaggi
8: Casoncelli Quattro Formaggi
Fresh Lombardian pasta was stuffed with four cheeses: fresh ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano, pecorino romano, and Gruyère. The dish also included sautéed bacon (which was actually cured by a Trust customer), sweet corn charred over almond wood, cipollini onions tossed in vinegar/olive oil then caramelized in the oven, and a bacon-corn butter sauce. The Chefs likened this to a bougie mac and cheese, which was a pretty accurate descriptor, and what stood out to me the most here was the interaction between smoke, salt, and the luscious nature of that cheese-butter combo.

2023 Lieu Dit Cabernet Franc
The night's second red wine was the 2023 Lieu Dit Cabernet Franc, hailing from the Santa Ynez Valley. The nose here was filled with tart, juicy dark fruits and lighter touches of flowers and herb. Palate-wise, I found a healthy dosing of purple fruit commixed with a marked herbaceousness and firm tannins.

Slow-Cooked Ibérico Presa
9: Slow-Cooked Ibérico Presa
Iberian pork shoulder was slowly grilled for five hours over binchotan and almond wood, then lacquered with a sweet-n-sour chili glaze, resulting in a tasty balance of sweetness and smoke that the Chefs compared to Honey Baked Ham. Also on the plate was a fricassee of mushrooms (trumpet, maitake, hon-shimeji) boosted with more of that sweet-sour, which proffered an additional hit of umami that I didn't mind at all.

Lamb Rack a la Plancha
10: Lamb Rack a la Plancha
New Zealand lamb was cooked on a flattop with salt and pepper, then finished over the grill, making for some properly tender, juicy, full-flavored cuts that succinctly conveyed the intrinsic ovine goodness of the meat. A lamb jus further bolstered those flavors, while blanched-then-fried Weiser Family Farms Butterball potatoes and green beans helped lighten the mood.

Bordiga Vermouth di Torino Rosso
To go along with dessert, we were provided some fortified wine, specifically the Nebbiolo-based Bordiga Vermouth di Torino Rosso. The bouquet here demonstrated the expected spicy, botanical notes, along with plenty of dark fruit. On the tongue: piquant and zippy, with a multifaceted herbaceousness set against more dark fruit and baking spices.

Basque Cheesecake
11: Basque Cheesecake
The kitchen's take on tarta de queso vasca showcased an inviting amalgam of smoky and creamy, all punctuated by the nutty, salty kick of that Ossetra caviar. Yum.

Kouign-Amann
12: Kouign-Amann
Closing things out was a fresh-baked kouign-amann. The Breton pastry featured a laminated dough incorporating plenty of butter, sugar, and salt, while its exterior highlighted a caramelized sugar glaze and specks of Maldon. Think crisp, flaky, and fluffy, with plenty of sweet, buttery deliciousness perked up by those pinpricks of sea salt. An appropriate finisher to be sure.

DTTN 2.0 Cocktail List DTTN 2.0 Wines by the Glass List
With dinner dispensed with, we headed over to DTTN 2.0 next door for some postprandial drinks, and pictured above is the spot's cocktail list and selection of wines by the glass. Click for larger versions.

Second Serve
Second Serve [$18.00] | "Take your time, we just up here vibin'." Fino. Montenegro. Lychee, Oolong. Lime
My choice of cocktail was this low-ABV concoction, which did a nice job combining the drier qualities of the sherry with sweet-n-spicy nuances and the assertiveness of amaro, all while lychee imparted a fruity freshness to the drink.

She's a Leo
She's a Leo [$20.00] | "Spicy in every way." Bourbon. Coconut Rum. Allspice Dram. Pineapple. Gochujang. Honey
This ended up being our favorite of the cocktails. I found it on the thicker side in terms of mouthfeel, but the crux here was the red chili paste, which lent a delightful heat that meshed swimmingly with the sweeter, fruitier tastes going on.

Bold and Brash
Bold and Brash [$20.00] | "The loud-mouth you learn to love." Two Rums. Strega. Yuzu. Raspberry. Pineapple. Orange
Our third cocktail certainly lived up to its name, offering up a bevy of spicy, herbal, and astringent flavors, all mixed up with plenty of fruit.

Daisy Pusher
Daisy Pusher [$20.00] | "We've now come full circle." Gin. Lillet Blanc. Curacao. Gooseberry. Tomato. Orange Blossom. Absinthe
This final cocktail ended up being on the house, and was to my liking as well. The key with this was the back-and-forth between tomato and gooseberry, with that tartness really interacting well with the drink's boozier components.

Not surprisingly, this was another strong effort by the team over at Trust. It seems that Chef McClelland was really able to embrace the seasonal-creative-slightly irreverent ethos of restaurant, so it's a bit of a bummer that he's leaving so soon, but I do wish him well in his new endeavors. As for what's next, Trust's original chef/founder Jason Quinn will be taking the reins once again, which I'm excited to see, as he hasn't cooked regularly here in years. With Quinn therefore out of DTTN 2.0, the kitchen there will thus be handed over to Jesus "Chuy" Mejia, who's built a bit of a reputation for his pastas. Now unfortunately, word is that DTTN 2.0 might not survive through the end of the year, so I'll have to try to make it back there before it's too late.

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