Mazal (Los Angeles, CA)

Mazal Restaurant
110 N San Fernando Rd, Los Angeles, CA 90031
323.576.2138
www.mazal.la
Thu 02/25/2021, 07:30p-10:45p





Lincoln Heights is not a neighborhood that I frequent often, but what brought me here recently was a visit to Mazal, a new plant-based Israeli restaurant. Named after the Hebrew word for "luck" (as in mazel tov), the place grand-opened on November 12th last year, and is the brainchild of Southern California native Tal Zaiet.

A bit of history: Born in October 1993, Zaiet hails from the Santa Clarita area, and graduated from Valencia High School. He later attended California Lutheran University, where he studied business and played soccer. After finishing his studies in 2015, he entered the world of marketing and bounced around a few places in LA, including The Hollywood Reporter. However, in 2018 Zaiet decided that he wanted to get into the restaurant business. This actually had been a lifelong dream of his father Davis, who'd previously built a career in the construction industry, specifically hardwood flooring. Together, they spent two years building Mazal with their own hands, and the plan was to debut around April 2020, but due to the coronavirus pandemic, the soft-opening was pushed back to late October. Zaiet's mother Hanni also plays a pivotal role as the driving force behind the menu, and even his sister Neev is involved.


Mazal takes over the former warehouse of Z-Best Hardwood Floors, which Zaiet's dad had run for two decades and had wanted to convert into a restaurant since 2015. The building was remodeled almost entirely by father and son, and of particular note is the 42-foot wood-topped bar, which is inlaid with ruby-tinted resin.



Of course, due to COVID-19, indoor dining wasn't allowed, so we sat outside on the patio, which was actually pretty cozy.


Above we see Mazal's selection of vegetarian, Mediterranean plates, rendered in shareable form and utilizing produce grown by the family themselves. The menu is largely the work of Zaiet's mother Hanni, and notably incorporates her Moroccan background. She also worked at the family bakery back in Israel, and is thus responsible for the desserts as well. On the beverage side, Zaiet has put together a small-but-interesting, reasonably-priced, natural/organic-leaning wine list along with a compact array of beers. The corkage fee is advertised at $20 a pop. Click for larger versions.


Tonight's meal began with a couple complimentary snacks. Olives were intensely flavored, almost boozy in fact, while even more interesting were the pickles, which showed off a caraway-like warmth.



Babaganoush [$9.00] | Roasted eggplant spread. Fire
The baba ghanoush was excellent, and might just be the best version I've had thanks to its engaging blend of spices and smoky elegance. The paired pita was similarly exemplary. I found it unusually fragrant--it smelled a bit like popcorn--while texturally the bread was wonderfully supple and slightly chewy.


To drink, we opted for a bottle of the NV Matic Mea Pet'Nat [$43], which hails from Štajerska, Slovenia and is made from the Šipon grape. The sparkling wine had a funky nose filled with astringent, lemon-y notes and a touch of breadiness. The palate was zippy and refreshing, and displayed yeasty, beer-like flavors along with candied citrus on the finish. Fun and neat.


Bourekas [$10.00] | Assortment of 5 bourekas. Flaky sephardic pastry baked crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside. Fillings include potato (dairy free), feta, feta/pesto/olive mix
I made sure to try all three types of bourekas on offer, and was really impressed by the lightness and daintiness of the pastries. Fillings included light, delicate feta cheese; smooth, silky potato with a savoriness that really worked with the sesame seeds; and a mixture that played the piquancy of olive against the creaminess of feta.


Pita with Za'atar [$7.00] | Generously brushed with olive oil and our za'atar mix and baked to a crunch. Served with a dollop of tahini
We also tried the pita in baked form, which gave the bread a delightful crispness and char. It worked easily as a base for the spicy, sour smack of za'atar, while the ultra-nutty tahini on the side tempered the flavors at play.


Moroccan Carrots [$6.00] | Spicy, zesty. Will kick you into high gear
Carrots ate cool and refreshing, and featured a punchy spice that meshed effortlessly with the intrinsic sweetness of the root veggie.


Roasted cauliflower & za'atar labneh [$15.00] | Straight veggies. Sweet & savory labneh to dip
Cauliflower displayed a commendable amount of smoke and sear, which formed a great back-and-forth with the bright, sweet, super lactic yogurt. My only quibble here was that I would've liked the florets a tad crunchier.


Shakshuka Flatbread [$16.00] | Roasted diced tomato and green/red bell pepper base, two eggs with runny yolk, topped with greens
Next came a shakshouka-inspired dish that was, at least according to the menu, only available for a limited amount of time. The lush, runny sunny side up eggs were just about perfect, and married seamlessly with the sweet-n-spicy tomato-pepper combination, all while the thin, crispy flatbread set the stage for everything.


The evening's next wine was of the orange variety, the 2020 Meinklang Mulatschak [$48], a Welschriesling/Pinot Gris/Savagnin blend from the Burgenland region of Austria. This one had an intensely aromatic bouquet that went in a decidedly perfumy, floral direction. Meanwhile, I got a bevy of soft, fruity, flower-y flavors backed by a slight minerality. Another fun, delicious wine.



Madbukha [$9.00] | Mildly spicy Moroccan roasted tomato dish
Our second spread was the matbukha, which expressed sweet, tangy flavors, commingled with the gentle application of spice and smoke. This one was surprisingly refreshing, and almost served as a bit of a palate cleanser.


Potatoes w/ hummus [$13.00] | Roasted spuds with herbs from our garden out back
I often have a hard time resisting potatoes on a menu, and tonight was no different. Mazal's were hearty and homey, with a lovely roasty quality that matched up swimmingly with the fragrant rosemary. They were certainly tasty alone, but were taken to the next level with a dab of that luscious, multifaceted hummus.


Jerusalem Bagel Toast [$18.00] | Provolone, schug (spicy), kale, shredded carrots, tomato, pesto
The restaurant's take on the casual classic that is bagel toast was another winner. I loved the smoky, nutty flavors of the actual bagel, and how that played with the bitter kale and creamy cheese, all while the pesto imparted an overarching brightness that really uplifted the dish. And again, nice labneh on the side, too.


Couscous [$21.00] | Supported by a rotating cast of roasted vegetables & garbanzo
We had couscous for our final savory, and it might just have been the strongest preparation I've experienced. What I found most impressive was the perfectly finespun, almost fluffy texture of the semolina, which had an elegance to it that contrasted nicely with the chickpeas. If that wasn't enough, the couscous was also uncommonly flavorful, and worked hand in hand with the sheer smokiness of the roasted veggies.


Chocolate Cake [$8.00] | Light & fluffy. Whipped cream available upon request
I always try to save room for dessert, and I'm glad I did, since this was definitely one of the better chocolate cakes I've had in a while. I liked how light and not overly sweet it was, but what was more intriguing was the slight spiciness present, which I just couldn't put my finger on.

This was an impressive meal, easily one of the best I've had all year, and I'd recommend that you make your way up here before the place really starts to blow up. The Zaiet family's perspective on Middle Eastern cuisine just really jibes with me, and I have to say that I did not miss the meat one bit. But speaking of meat, apparently the reason why they don't serve it here is because doing so would require a stovetop, which would require a hood system, which would require installing a sprinkler system throughout the entire building (even in sections that aren't part of the restaurant), which would be quite an undertaking. Sadly, I guess we'll have to wait for Zaiet's sophomore effort in order to try some of Hanni's non-veg dishes.

Playground (Santa Ana, CA) [6]

Playground Restaurant
220 E 4th St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
714.560.4444
www.playgrounddtsa.com
Fri 02/19/2021, 06:25p-09:10p



Regular readers will probably know that Jason Quinn's Playground is easily one of my favorite restaurants in Orange County. I've had takeaway from the spot a couple times already during the coronavirus crisis, but the kitchen switches things up pretty regularly. This makes for good replay value, and what brought me back recently was the place's new menu of Spanish-inspired cuisine.



Tonight's dinner began with a tasting of a new batch of India pale ales from lauded NorCal producer Russian River Brewing Company:

• 2021 Russian River Blind Pig - Sweet, juicy citrus on the nose, joined by a distinct grassiness. The palate was all about bitter, biting, piney hops, but in moderation, and there were also notes of dry herb and sour citrus.
• 2021 Russian River Happy Hops - I got surprisingly soft, muted aromas at first, but the beer really opened up with some time in the glass, and showed off notes of piney, earthy hops with a touch of citrus. Taste-wise, I found a balanced mix of hop bitterness and fruitiness, with some spice and pungency mixed in.
• 2021 Russian River Pliny The Younger - Our third beer was certainly the most sought-after of the bunch. A triple IPA, this one had an intense, dank, almost funky bouquet that definitely commanded my attention. This then led to bitter, "weedy" flavors backed by a sweet, fruity backbone, and I even detected some barnyard-y, Burgundian notes.
• 2021 Russian River Pliny The Elder - Next came Russian River's iconic double IPA, a prototypical example of the West Coast style. I found the nose surprisingly muted at first, but it really intensified as the beer warmed, giving up striking aromas of sweet citrus, urinal cake, and hard candy. Tasting it, I found a smooth, classic flavor profile that blended focused hop bitterness with touches of must and light malt.
• 2021 Russian River Mind Circus - The lone hazy IPA of the quintet, this one featured a creamy aroma with lots of orange and tropical fruit, along with just a smidge of funk. The palate, though, was relatively sharp for a hazy, and displayed a moderate amount of hoppiness, combined with citrus, grass, some more tropical notes, and light, zesty spice.

"Triple M" [$10.00]
When I saw this item listed on the menu, I had no idea what it was, though I figured that the dish would feature a trio of ingredients starting with the letter "M." Well, it turns out I was right, since what we had here was Marcona, (dulce de) membrillo, and manchego. It was an unexpectedly effective combination. I really enjoyed the back-and-forth between the sheer sugariness of the quince paste and the sweet-salty-nutty taste of the almonds, all while the cheese moderated the interaction.


Jamon Serrano [$10.00]
Serrano ham slices were pleasantly firm, and conveyed all the rich, nutty, umami-stuffed flavors that I wanted.


Tortilla Espanol "Bar Nestor" [$10.00]
I felt compelled to try the Spanish omelette, which was ostensibly inspired by the version at San Sebastián's famed pintxo joint Bar Nestor. I found it somewhat more luscious, more gelatinous than what you might typically encounter, though flavors were classic thanks to its spot-on interplay between potato and egg.


Fabada Asturiana [$14.00] | You NEED This! NOT vegetarian
This bean stew was a surprise standout, and probably my favorite item of the night. I loved the in-your-face smoke and salt from the cured pork, and how that paired with the brightness of the herbs, while white beans worked wonders to ground the dish.


Next to drink was the 2021 Russian River Funky Foeder, a farmhouse-style ale with cherries. The nose on this one wasn't quite what I was expecting. Sure, there was sour cherry, but also a minty character that threw me off a bit. This mintiness continued on to the palate, where it was joined by deep, rich cherry flavors as well as the requisite tartness, crispness, and funk.


Grilled Chorizo [$10.00] | Grilled Onions, Saffron Aioli
I'm quite the chorizo fan, and this was a fine example of the sausage. I appreciated its palpable, yet elegant spice and rustic consistency, while the caramelized onions imparted a marked sweetness to the dish. Also key was that aioli, which had an almost mustard-y piquancy to it.


Ensaladilla Rusa [$20.00] | with the Good Tuna
Given my penchant for canned tuna, Playground's take on the Olivier salad was a must-try. It was an admirable example of the dish, one that highlighted the depth and brine of the tuna while also presenting counterbalancing elements of egg, potato, peas, and carrot.


Sword Squid Conserva [$14.00] | Romesco
The squid was another gotta-try item. It showed off a firm, satisfying, yet still tender texture, while flavors were focused and saline. The bits of greenery made for fitting accompaniments, though I didn't get much from the romesco.


At this point we moved on to the 2006 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros. The wine had a powerful bouquet, one that went in a sweet, honeyed, funky, slightly oxidative direction. I found the palate silky smooth, with flavors of tropical fruit, barnyard, minerals, and peppery spice. This was definitely a mature-tasting Burgundy, so you'll probably want to drink this one soon.


Patatas Bravas [$10.00] | Blumenthal-style
The first time that I encountered Blumenthal potatoes was during my first visit to Playground back in 2012. I was a big fan of the contrast between their crispy, crunchy exteriors and fluffy insides, so it was great to see the taters served again tonight, where they functioned as a superb foil to the tangy "brava" flavors at play.


Braised & Glazed Beeler's Pork Cheeks [$28.00] | Giant Asturian White Beans, 50 Year Sherry Vinegar Glaze
Pork cheek arrived falling-apart tender, and possessed all the rich, dark, deep flavors I was looking forward to. Given the heft of the meat, the white beans functioned beautifully as a counterpoint.


Pulpo Gallega [$26.00] | Grilled Octopus, Boiled Potatoes, Sherry Vinegar, Lemon, Parsley, Cayenne, Sweet & Smoked Paprika
Octopus came out perfectly textured--tender, yet still substantial--and matched up easily with the bevy of sour, spicy flavors in the dish. Great potatoes, too.


The evening's final beverage was the cà phê sữa đá-inspired 2016 AleSmith Bourbon Barrel Aged Vietnamese Coffee Speedway Stout. The beer had a fragrant nose that showcased bittersweet coffee notes alongside chocolatey, malty qualities. Taste-wise, I found lots of cocoa powder, joined by roasty coffee bitterness, light vanilla, and noticeable oaky nuances.


Catalan Spinach [$14.00] | Apple, Apricot, Sunflower Seed, Pine Nut, Sultana, Lemon. Vegan
Spinach displayed a vivacious bitterness, one that matched up swimmingly with all the fruity, nutty flavors at hand. Nice array of textures here as well.



Vaca Vieja Galiciana Ribeye [$50.00] | 12-15 Year Old Retired Rubia Gallega Dairy Cattle, Mojo Verde - Raw, Seasoned & Tempered for You to Cook at Home
You don't usually find meat from mature cows on menus here in the Southland, so I was glad to see it offered tonight. Compared to your typical steak, this rib-eye had more of a chew to it, but was far from being tough, while flavors were deeper, more robust, more complex. It was an impressive cut of meat, one that was reminiscent of dry-aged beef in fact. If you're able to find "old cow" on a menu here in SoCal, I'd recommend giving it a try.


We were also provided a serving of hearty potatoes tossed in a zippy mojo verde, which I believe was meant to accompany the steak above.

Not surprisingly, this was another strong meal from the Playground team. Their rendition of Spanish cuisine was a commendable one, and it reminded me once again that, for some reason, we don't have nearly enough Spanish restaurants here in the Southland. With the pandemic outlook appearing to be improving, I'm hoping that I'll be able to enjoy a proper meal at Playground sometime this year, but I wouldn't be surprised if I return for some more takeout, either.

Rosemallows (Long Beach, CA)

Rosemallows Bar
225 Long Beach Blvd, Long Beach, CA 90802
562.436.2337
rosemallowsbar.wixsite.com/qrcode
Thu 02/11/2021, 07:30p-09:40p





I recently found myself in Downtown Long Beach and in need of a place to have dinner. I ended up checking out Rosemallows, a cocktail bar with what management describes as an "80's tropical minimalism" aesthetic. Named after the rose mallow (another word for hibiscus), the place opened in late November last year, shortly before outdoor dining was outlawed again due to rising coronavirus cases, and comes to us from none other than craft beer maven Jimmy Han.

Han, of course, is most known for being the driving force behind Beer Belly, which opened in Koreatown in 2011 and in Long Beach in 2016. Unfortunately, the K-town location closed down in July 2019, while LBC shuttered at the start of 2020. The former is now home to smashburger purveyor Love Hour (where Han is a partner), while the latter was converted to Rosemallows. There was also a Beer Belly outpost at Banc of California Stadium that debuted in April 2018, but it looks like it's also dead and buried.

Note that Tiki Tiki, a tiki bar that opened in an unused section of Beer Belly Long Beach back in August 2018, is still around. The team hopes to get it up and running again once the pandemic situation improves.


The beverage program at Rosemallows is run by James Squire (a Beer Belly and Tiki Tiki alum), who also manages the FOH. The cocktails here are fruit-forward and tropical-leaning in nature, and might be considered tiki-adjacent, though you can also order directly from the Tiki Tiki menu if you really want to go in that direction. In addition, there's a small array of beers and a few interesting wines on offer. As for the food, it's the work of Chef Dustin Prewitt (Belly Bombz food truck), and definitely has a pan-Asian bent befitting this place's concept. Click for larger versions.


Lemongrass Mojito [$12.00] | bacardi superior carta blanca rum, lemongrass syrup, mint, soda
As some longtime readers might know, the mojito was my go-to cocktail back in the late aughts, so I decided to revisit the drink tonight. Rosemallows' rendition was classic at its core: a refreshing, fizzy concoction, but one amped up by the zing of lemongrass.


Spam Musubi (2) [$7.00] | hawaiian glaze, japanese kewpie mayo, green onion, house furikake + tempura battered
First to eat was one of the better Spam musubis I've had. The actual Spam came out well seared, its salty, savory flavors meshing well with the rice while the sesame seeds allowed for even more enjoyment. The tempura'd preparation featured a batter that contributed some further textural interest to the standard dish, but I actually preferred the original.


Prickly Pear Daiquiri [$12.00] | prickly pear, cane sugar, ron abuelo 7 yr. panamanian rum, lime
My second cocktail was this ruby-hued take on the traditional daiquiri. I found it fruity and floral overall, with tart, citrusy notes and a pervasive astringency backed by an undercurrent of chocolate-y flavors.


Fried Chicken Sandwich [$13.00] | coconut & pineapple yogurt brined chicken thigh, sesame-scallion-red miso cabbage slaw, hibiscus & horseradish aioli, brioche bun, served with fries
Next came one of the more interesting chicken sandwiches I've had. The actual bird ate as tender and juicy as I wanted, and showed off a properly crisp crust, but what really struck me was the aioli, which imparted an omnipresent floral note. It was sort of odd, but worked, and I was certainly a fan of the crunchy slaw as well. The fries, meanwhile, were on the crisp, gritty, familiar side, and came with two condiments: an easy-going wasabi ranch and a surprisingly potent curry ketchup.


At this point the bar began shutting down, and so I had to switch over to beer. I opted for the 2020 Ambitious Ales Julia [$7], a sour blonde ale with raspberry, blackberry, and vanilla. Nose on this one was all about jammy fruit. The beer was soft on the palate, and I got a pretty good amount of tart berries, backed by a slight cereal-y character and wisps of moderating vanilla. This was actually the first beer I've had from the brewery, but now I'm curious to see what else they have to offer.


Macaroni Salad [$6.00] | carrot, green onion, sesame seeds, house furikake
As I mentioned above, the restaurant was closing up shop, so I ended up taking the rest of my meal to-go. Let's start with the mac salad, which was a bit different than what I'm accustomed to, and I'm not just talking about the use of shell pasta. The dish had an austerity to it that was unexpected, as the dominant flavors here were the nuttiness of the sesame and the pungency of the scallions. Sort of neat, actually.


Yardlong Beans [$7.00] | cherry tomatoes, toasted garlic, roasted hazelnuts, tropical vietnamese glaze
Beans arrived pleasantly crunchy, with a good smoke to 'em--very nice. I also appreciated how the tomatoes lifted the dish, though I wasn't quite as convinced with the hazelnuts.


Squire was kind enough to include a complimentary beer with my takeout order, the 2019 Cellador Ellipses, a wild ale with Black Tartarian cherries that was created for the brewery's third anniversary. The bouquet here was all about aromatic dark fruit laced with plenty of tart, earthy, yeasty notes. Tasting it, I got loads of lush, lingering, almost kriek-like cherry, joined by a barnyard-y funk and a good amount of acidity.


Hanger Steak [$24.00]
Grilled hanger steak was cooked a bit more than I would've liked, but that didn't really end up detracting from the cut. The beef was still well textured, and had a solid sear to it, along with a deep, rich, robust flavor profile that I found extremely satisfying. Yum.


The hanger also came with a serving of fries, which were more aggressively flavored than what I had above with the chicken sandwich. Also appreciated was the zippy chimichurri on the side.


Loco Moco [$11.00] | short rib and chuck hamburger steak, fried garlic rice, vegan mushroom gravy, over easy egg, scallions, sesame seeds
Loco moco is one of those dishes I always tend to order when I see it on a menu, and Rosemallows' version didn't disappoint. I was impressed with the rice, which was perfectly textured and spot on in terms of seasoning. It played foil to the combination of a full-flavored burger patty and egg, while the savory mushroom gravy helped bind everything together.

Apparently, the reason for the shutter of Beer Belly was due to Han's belief that craft beer's moment had passed. It's a bit unfortunate to hear that, especially since he was one of the early proponents of the genre here in LA, but perhaps there's some truth behind the sentiment. That being said, though I'm sad to see Beer Belly go, Rosemallows looks to be a promising replacement, and will likely also become one of my go-to drinking spots in Long Beach.