Saturday, December 13, 2025

Corridor 109 (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

Corridor 109 Restaurant
641 N Western Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90004
www.corridor109.com
Sat 12/13/2025, 08:30p-11:45p




Corridor 109 Exterior

Back in November, I reported on an experience I had at Bar 109, the cocktail bar attached to the latest incarnation of Brian Baik's Japanese-ish tasting menu spot Corridor 109. At the conclusion of my post, I mentioned that I still needed to secure a Corridor reservation, as the place had just soft-opened the previous month. Well, just a few days after my Bar 109 visit, it was announced that seats would be released on December 1st. Thus, when 10:00am rolled around that day, I was ready on Resy and easily booked my spot, hence this visit.

For those unfamiliar with the Chef's background, please refer to my previous Corridor 109 post, which details the Chinatown Test Kitchen that ran from January 2023 to November 2024.

Corridor 109 Interior
Corridor 109 3.0 resides in Larchmont, at its confluence with East Hollywood, Melrose Hill, and Hollywood, in a building once occupied by a furniture store. Not surprisingly, the structure has been completely reenvisioned by the team over at Montalba Architects, and now sports an intimate 11-seater chef's counter that grants each diner a full view of the kitchen.

Corridor 109 Kitchen Counter View
And here's the scene from my seat at the fifth position from the left.

Corridor 109 Menu
Pictured above is Corridor 109's menu for the night, a decidedly seafood-centric affair priced at $325 a head, plus a 20% service charge. Click for a larger version.

Corridor 109 Menu Introduction Corridor 109 Wine List: Champagne, Sparkling / Orange, Rosé Corridor 109 Wine List: White Corridor 109 Wine List: Red Corridor 109 Wine List: Red / Sweet Corridor 109 Sake List Corridor 109 Wines by the Glass List Corridor 109 Beverage List
We also see the wine list and sake selection, which has been put together by Master Sommelier Michaël Engelmann, but will also incorporate input from GM Jennifer Shundo-Maeda. Corkage is $100 per bottle, limit two, or $200 per magnum, limit one, with no corkage allowed for sake. Click for larger versions.

Corridor 109 Place Setting
The place setting, with all in place.

Ise Ebi
1: Ise Ebi | Spiny Lobster, Tartlet
Dinner commenced with what was essentially an amuse-bouche course. Raw California spiny lobster ate super fresh, with a great "snap," and its gentle salinity paired like clockwork with the sweeter qualities of a whitefish mousse. Wasabi imparted an undercurrent of heat, and the finger lime pops of acidity, all while a dressing of shiso oil helped integrate everything. Nice crunch from that "grain-y" tart shell, too. A refined one-biter that packed quite a bit of punch, while also serving as a statement of intent.

2006 Kistler Cuvée Cathleen Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay
To drink, I BYOB'd the 2006 Kistler Cuvée Cathleen Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay, hailing from Sonoma Valley. Initial whiffs were all about buttery yellow fruit commixed with a touch of mustiness that soon dissipated. The palate was expectedly round, with juicy tropical fruit accompanied by earth, oak, and a distinct spiciness in the middle. By the start of course #3, the wine was even richer, even rounder, even butterier, its flavors of yellow fruit rendered in almost candied fashion at times, but also counteracted by a persistent spice. By course #6, those candied fruit notes were joined by a minty, herbaceous character that worked superbly for balance, and I think that the Chard was fully evolved at this point. Overall, this bottle was clearly mature, yet still displaying verve, and I was quite happy with how it turned out.

Tai
2: Tai | Sea Bream, Ensui Uni
Saltwater-packed Hokkaido sea urchin showcased a formidable, yet sophisticated brine along with its trademark sweetness, and juxtaposed easily with clean, lean, slightly chewy cuts of Japanese tai. A tangy, acidic, chive-studded citrus-soy gelée did a wonderful job integrating those two main ingredients, and I was a fan of the moderating effect provided by the myoga and shiso flowers, too.

Plating Aji Toast
Here we see Chef Baik and his team plating the mackerel toast coming up.

Aji
3: Aji | Horse Mackerel, Toast
I think it's safe to say that Baik's signature dish is his sardine (iwashi) toast. However, the aji toast I had tonight might've been even better. The pintxo-inspired bite highlighted line-caught horse mackerel (tsuri aji), prepared sushi-style (lightly salted, vinegared), and did a stupendous job conveying the hikarimono's elegantly oceany, umami-packed nature. However, the crux here was the one-two punch of a sweet-n-piquant pickled red pepper aioli and all the zesty, herby notes present, which combined to form a perfect counterpoint to the fish. At the same time, a base of tender, toasty homemade milk bread worked to mellow all the flavors at play. This just might be the best non-traditional aji I've ever had.

Finger Napkin
A wetted finger napkin was provided alongside the course above, which was a thoughtful gesture given the hands-on nature of the dish (and the one to follow).

Ankimo
Flounder
4: Ankimo | Monkfish Liver, Flounder
Hirame was prepared kobujime-style (cured between sheets of seaweed), thus heightening the flounder's depth and concentration. The fish married surprisingly seamlessly with the monkfish liver, which seemed creamier and more intense than usual, with accents of ponzu and chive, while cucumber and onion marmalade brightened things up. Also critical was that super crisp sheet of nori, with its grassy, savory smack that really helped tie the dish together.

Fugu
Next to arrive was an off-menu wintertime delicacy that I reveled in. Fugu was cleaned by certified personnel in Japan then shipped to the restaurant. The team here then fileted and marinated the fish, coated it in potato starch, and prepared it karaage-style. The end result was perhaps the best pufferfish I've eaten. I loved its golden-fried exterior and gratifying mouthfeel, while flavors were rich, savory, and perked up beautifully by that flaky snow salt. I didn't mind a squirt of lemon for some acidity, either.

Hotate
5: Hotate | Scallop, Clam Broth
Raw Hokkaido scallop had that supple, sweet, saline disposition I was looking for. It was well-augmented by an aromatic, herb-boosted, almost "hammy" clam broth, but even better was the prickly astringency imparted by the kinome (sansho pepper leaves). Nice temperature contrast between the bivalve and the bouillon, too.

Sawara
6: Sawara | Spanish Mackerel, Yamaimo
Japanese Spanish mackerel was miso-marinated and grilled over charcoal, making for a robustly-flavored fish with a persistent sweetness. The sawara was certainly tasty alone, but what really made the dish sing was the mountain yam sauce, which offered this zippiness that did a wonderful job--along with the pickles and daikon--offsetting the potency of the fish.

Katsuo
7: Katsuo | Skipjack Tuna, Pesto Spaghetti
Here we had another one of Baik's signature dishes. Firm strands of pasta were dressed in the Chef's own version of pesto, which incorporated traditional ingredients but was meant to be richer and more acidic than the classic sauce. Given the kick of the pesto, the grated ginger was absolutely crucial, providing a spiciness that cut through both the spaghetti and the deep, savory flavors of soy-marinated tuna. The three main components simply meshed effortlessly and deliciously, and I liked the additional bitterness provided by the fried shallots, too.

Kinki
8: Kinki | Channel Rockfish, Fish Broth
Thonyhead from Hokkaido was grilled over binchotan, giving it a subtle smoke and savoriness. The kinki was matched with a homey fish bone broth that made use of aonori, which imparted a series of grassy, oceany nuances that really worked for me.

Sliced Cucumber
Fancily-sliced cucumber appeared, and was intended to serve as a bit of a palate cleanser for the next two courses.

Clam & Uni
9: Clam & Uni | Buri, Sushi Rice Risotto
The Chef is apparently quite a fan of pairing clam and sea urchin, and I suppose I am now as well, since this risotto was pretty stellar. The rice managed to meld the lusciousness of uni and the smoky salinity of asari, with chives lightening the mood just a smidge--I could've eaten a much bigger bowl of the stuff. And if that wasn't enough, we also had peak-of-the-season wild buri (winter yellowtail), which demonstrated its own depth and bountiful amounts of umami. It was a consummate pairing.

Bramaterra, Antoniotti, Nebbiolo+, Piedmont, 2019
At this point, I asked for something to pair with the steak below, and was poured the Bramaterra, Antoniotti, Nebbiolo+, Piedmont, 2019 [$24]. The nose here was heavy on strawberry and black pepper, with supporting elements of sous bois. On the palate, I found a pleasant tannic structure and acidity alongside more juicy dark berries, all tinged with medicinal overtones and traces of smoke and mineral. I will point out that the wine ended up being on the house, I'm assuming because I shared the Kistler above with the team.

Wagyu
10: Wagyu | Oxtail Jus, Shiso
The requisite meat course brought out full-blooded Australian wagyu strip steak, an A4-equivalent, slightly chewy cut that was teeming with deep, beefy flavors and a healthy amount of fat. Even so, it was still more restrained than your usual A5 wagyu, but such restraint made sense in this situation due to the additional complexities provided by oxtail and shiso.

Dessert
11: Dessert | Asian Pear Sorbet
A nashi pear sorbet did an admirable job capturing the essence of the fruit, but was even better when taken with that Champagne gelée, with its touch of bitterness that tended to even out the sweetness of the dessert.

Hojicha
To close: A cozy cup of roasty tea, made from single-origin hojicha harvested only once per year.

Having been first introduced to Corridor 109 during its Test Kitchen days, it's great to see how Baik's cooking has evolved over the years. The changes aren't monumental, but are more akin to small improvements adding up to a further elevated experience. There's still a very noticeable through line in the cuisine, a certain je ne sais quoi that speaks to the Chef's deft interplay of richness and restraint, of expressing a lot with seemingly little. Corridor 109 v3.0 represents one of my top meals of 2025, so I'd recommend going while it's still relatively easy to get in.

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