Lilo (Carlsbad, CA)
Lilo Restaurant
2571 Roosevelt St, Carlsbad, CA 92008
442-303-8245
www.restaurantlilo.com
Sat 11/22/2025, 05:00p-08:05p
I first crossed paths with Eric Bost 16 years ago, after a superb meal at the bastion of French haute cuisine that is Guy Savoy. I figured that I'd never see him again, as the Chef ended up leaving the country shortly after, headed to Singapore to open a new Savoy outpost at the Marina Bay Sands. Well, that turned out not to be the case. Bost ended up returning to the United States in 2014 and wound up in Los Angeles, where he linked up with Sprout LA and began running the kitchen at République. He had larger ambitious though, and subsequently partnered with Sprout to launch Auburn, which bowed in March 2019. The modern Cal-French spot was where I had my best LA meal that year, and thus, its shutter during the early days of the pandemic represented the COVID-19 closure I was the saddest about.
Following said closure, Bost quickly moved down to the San Diego area (where he'd cooked early on in his career) and teamed up with John Resnick, taking over the kitchens at both Jeune et Jolie and Campfire. The two then further deepened their relationship, and made the decision to debut two new projects together. In late 2021, they purchased a property just up the street from Jeune et Jolie with the goal of creating two complimentary dining concepts: an all-day eatery/bakery called Wildland, and a fine dining spot by the name of Lilo. After numerous delays, Wildland opened in December 2024, while Lilo's first official day of service was on April 17th. Given my history with Bost, I absolutely had to make my way down here to see what he was up to.
Joining Bost is Chef de Cuisine Dušan Todić, who actually hails from Belgrade, Serbia. After spending the early part of his career in his home country, Todić made his way to the US in 2016. He was able to secure employment at San Diego's poshest restaurant, Addison, located inside the Fairmont Grand Del Mar. From there, he went over to Jeune et Julie, taking charge after Andrew Bachelier's departure, then returned to Serbia to become Executive Chef at Square Nine Hotel in Belgrade, where he'd cooked previously. Todić came back to the States in 2023 to serve as Lilo's CdC, where he remains as Bost's second-in-command.
Meanwhile, Pastry Chef duties are handled by Madeline Biehl, who actually comes to Lilo from the much-lauded SingleThread up in Healdsburg. Prior to that, she worked for SD-based restaurant group CH Projects (f.k.a. Consortium Holdings), and before that, spent time at Addison and North County mainstay Pacifica Del Mar.
The front-of-the-house is the charge of General Manager Rachel Debber, a Fresno native who first arrived in San Diego to study kinesiology at California State University San Marcos. However, she decided to pivot to a career in hospitality, and got started as a hostess at Campfire. She worked various positions at the restaurant before switching over to Jeune et Jolie. There, Debber began as a bartender before rising to the positions of bar manager, AGM, and finally GM. Thus, she was an obvious pick to lead the FOH here at Lilo.
Wine Director responsibilities are being taken care of Savannah Riedler, who started out in San Diego at places like Juniper & Ivy and Vino Carta. From there, she relocated to LA and worked at Republique before heading up the coast to Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur. Following, she explored winemaking at Ramey Wine Cellars in Sonoma, Gramercy Cellars in the Columbia Valley, and Rhys Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Riedler then arrived in San Francisco, landing at Quince and Saison before joining the team here, where she's supported in her duties by Sommelier Caitlin Ingraham.
Rounding things out is Beverage Director Andrew Cordero, an SDSU grad who cut his teeth in hospitality at Bencotto in Little Italy. He later moved over to the beer-focused Bottlecraft, then was hired by CH Projects, where he bartended at Noble Experiment, Morning Glory, and Seneca. In 2023, Cordero connected with the team at Campfire/Jeune et Jolie, and now leads the bar program at Lilo.
A fun fact: The moniker of "Lilo" (lie-low) is a neologism found in John Koenig's The Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows, where it's defined as "a friendship that can lie dormant for years only to pick right back up instantly, as if you’d seen each other last week." Thus, the idea is that Lilo is a restaurant that expresses this ethos of reconnection.
My party arrived early for our reservation, and thus headed over to Wildland (housed in the same building) to kill some time.
We ended up enjoying a round of cocktails. Going left to right, we had:
When dinner time rolled around, we moseyed on back to Lilo, where our evening began in the garden patio area. It's a bit of a transportive place to be, in a sense a linkage between the outside environment and the dinner proper to follow.
Pictured above is the garden menu, which lists a small array of apéritif-y beverages. Click for a larger version.
Kicking things off was a complimentary welcome drink: clarified green tomato juice combined with housemade tonic (grapefruit peel, lemon zest, tarragon) and finished with citrus fern. Essentially a sort of tomato soda, it served as a very fitting apéro, its citrusy, vegetal, invigorating disposition really doing a great job perking up the palate.
1: DEER ISLE SCALLOP | Fermented Raspberry. Citrus Fern. Marigold
We were then treated to a few bites from the garde manger, and up first was a one-year-old scallop from Sue Buxton, a fifth-generation Mainer and founder of Day Boat Fresh. The bivalve arrived marinated in citrus fern oil and was accompanied by shiso, lacto-fermented raspberry purée, more citrus fern, and marigold. Think bright and zippy with a distinct citrus character, juxtaposed with the subtle salinity of the scallop.
SOCHA [$23.00] | Vodka. Cucumber. Bermutto. Anise Hyssop
We ended up trying both low-ABV cocktails available, and this first one was definitely on the refreshing, easy-going side, with plenty of cucumber combined with the fruity complexities of Japanese vermouth.
2: SWEET CORN CROUSTADE | Green Blueberries. Lemon Balm. Basil. Spring Blossoms
Our second canapé was derived from corn, juiced and thickened with its natural starchiness into pudding form. This velvety custard was further enhanced by baby corn, and did a wonderful job showing off the intrinsic sweetness of the maize, while also demonstrating this almost foie gras-esque richness. This was then offset by zingier flavors of green blueberry, fresh seasonal herbs (baby thyme, lemon balm, mint), cilantro flowers, and lemon peel. However, the best part just might've been that delightfully crunchy, corn-y, savory crust. Our favorite of the opening bites.
WATASHIATO [$23.00] | Junmai Sake. Jasmine. Salers
This sake-based cocktail was excellent, masterfully blending the enchantingly floral flavors of jasmine with the robust bittersweetness of gentian, all layered over a nihonshu base.
3: BIG EYE TUNA AND WAGYU BEEF TARTARE | Yuzu. Black Radish. Ginger. Spruce
4: SANTA BARBARA SEA URCHIN | Butternut Squash. Koji. Myoga. White Alyssum
Bluefin tuna and A5 wagyu were expertly combined in tartare form, making for a briny, umami-packed duo well-countered by yuzu gel, fermented black radishes, spruce tips, and radish flowers. I loved the super aggressive crunch here, too. Perhaps even tastier was the rye-uni tartlet, which comprised a rye base topped with pepita butter, toasted pepitas, a mousse of red miso-caramelized uni, uni glazed with kōji water and smoked shōyu, Alyssum flowers, pickled myōga, jalapeños, and lime zest. There was a lot going on, but the key was the interplay between the umami-packed salinity of the urchin and the nuttiness of those pumpkin seeds. Fantastic crunch on this one as well.
TENDERHOOK [$18.00] | Pineapple. Osmanthus. Nori
This mocktail managed to be a winner as well. I loved the floral, tea-like aromatics going on, and how that meshed perfectly with the grassy-savoriness of the seaweed, all while juicy notes of pineapple made themselves known towards the back end. The Lilo team really does do a bang-up job with their non-alcoholic beverages.
5: GOUGÈRE | Comté Mornay. Barrel-Aged Maple Syrup. Ibérico Lardo
Our last bite in the garden brought a gougère filled with Comté-based Mornay sauce, capped with cerdo ibérico lardo brushed with aged maple syrup and dusted with pepper. This was quite unlike any gougère I've had before, and while it displayed some of the classic qualities of the choux pastry, the crux here was clearly how the sugariness of the maple functioned as a counter to that lush, fatty pork.
At this point, we were given Lilo's beverage list to peruse. To accompany the meal, guests are offered a beverage pairing at $190, a non-alcoholic pairing at $110 (which one of my dining companions opted for), a mixed "Goldilocks" pairing at $165, and a Champagne pairing at $290. Click for a larger version.
Here we see the restaurant's cocktail list and choices of wines by the glass. Click for larger versions.
Lilo's wine list is set up differently than any other I've seen, as there's a separate section dedicated solely to California wines, broken up by geographical region. This idea is to really celebrate the range of bottlings available from the State. Click for larger versions.
And here we have the more traditional presentation of the wine list, with all countries represented. Corkage is $100 a pop for the first bottle, then $150 afterwards. Click for larger versions.
And finally, Lilo's selection of spirits. Click for larger versions.
Following the amuse-bouche round, we headed from the courtyard to the dining room-slash-open kitchen, which boasts a 16-seat chef's counter and two four-seater tables. The space was penned by the team over at Bells + Whistles, an LA-based firm that also designed Jeune et Jolie. Meant to pay tribute to the naturalistic beauty of the California coast, it's quite a lovely place to be thanks to its understated, laidback luxury. Note that this building was previously occupied by auto repair shop Carlsbad British Motor Cars, and was home to Carlsbad Collision Care Inc before that. If you want to go back even further, it was here where Morey boogie boards (a.k.a. bodyboards) were once crafted.
6: SPINY LOBSTER | Charred Cucumber. Blackberry. Kinome. Tomatillo
Once we were seated, the night's first "proper" course appeared without much delay. Locally-caught langusta was gently steamed, then served with Girl & Dug iceplant, charred cucumber, finger lime, blackberries, and kinome leaf, which all combined to offer a bevy of bright, citrusy, herby nuances that complemented the sweetness of the spiny lobster admirably. A zingy centrifuge-clarified tomatillo gelée was then applied tableside, while finishing things off was a charred cucumber oil that lent a smoky, savory quality to the dish. Note also the ice bowl utilized, made in-house with a custom mold from MoldBrothers.
At this point, we were offered a complimentary pour of the Hélène Charbaut (09.24) 2021, 'Les Pinailleuses', Extra Brut, Mareuil-Sur-Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne, Champagne. A blanc de noirs that reportedly spent nine months in oak and 30 months on the lees, this smelled of juicy orchard fruit tinged with brioche. On the palate, I found a healthy dosing of acidity, along with a plethora of green apple flavors supported by an agreeable toastiness and a backbone of minerality. Quite lovely overall.
7: ABALONE | Grilled Over Embers. Brushed with Fermented Pepper and Guanciale. Tempura of Brassicas. Oyster Emulsion. Allium Powder. A Broth of Roasted Chicken and Bone Marrow
Baja abalone was brushed with an aioli of Jimmy Nardellos, guanciale, and colatura before being grilled, resulting in a both a perfectly meaty-yet-delicate texture and a beautiful char and caramelization. All this delicious smoke and savor and salinity was then augmented by an earthy, comforting, deeply flavorful roasted chicken and bone marrow consommé, while balancing things out was the zestiness of turnips, tatsoi, mustard greens, and borage flowers. One of my dining companions commented this this was the best abalone he'd ever eaten, and I might have to agree with him. Meanwhile, serving as a contrast to the abalone were tempura-fried sesame leaves and yu choy, which proffered some light, vegetal, crunchy sensations, while there was also a condiment of heady oyster emulsion dusted with grassy Allium powder. My only quibble here was that the tempura was a tad oilier than I would've liked.
Following the course above, wetted towels were provided given the hands-on nature of the fried veggies--a welcomed nicety.
We BYOB'd three bottles tonight, and up first was the 2000 René & Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses. Initially, the nose here was dominated by caramelized apples, with nutty, oxidative nuances, while the palate skewed sweet and almost honeyed, with more of those candied nut notes. With more time, the Chablis evolved and began demonstrating a bouquet filled with luscious pineapple tinged with funk and lemon; in the mouth, think thick and tropical, with both grassiness and citrusiness linking up with the wine's rich, caramel-y character. Given that this was a 25-year-old white Burgundy, I was a bit concerned that it'd be completely gone, so thankfully that wasn't the case.
8: IKEJIME BLACK COD | Matsutake Mushroom. Asian Pear. Lime Kosho. A Sabayon of Pineau des Charentes
Black cod was dry-aged in-house for four days to improve texture and concentrate flavors. The resulting fish showed off a wondrously supple, luscious consistency, while taste-wise, I found a sophisticated sweet salinity. However, the lime and Pineau Charentais-boosted sabayon seemed domineering at first, as they tended to overpower the more restrained nature of the cod. It was only when I applied those foraged matsutakes (and matsutake oil) that everything fell into place, as the woodsy spice of the 'shrooms really served to moderate and amalgamate everything.
White truffles from Piedmont were then presented tableside. Given that we were nearing the end of the season's peak, we opted to add a couple 2.5-gram shavings of these beauties to our next course, at $60 a pop.
9: N25 KALUGA CAVIAR | Orgeat Ice Cream. Smoked Celery Root Bushi. Freshly Pressed Almond Oil
It was now time for a mid-menu dessert of sorts. An orgeat ice cream (candied almonds, orange blossom water) was crowned with a quenelle of N25 kaluga hybrid caviar, then topped with fleur de sel, shavings of a katsuobushi-inspired celeriac "bushi" (marinate in tamari and brown sugar, then cold-smoke over applewood for two days before drying), and freshly-pressed almond oil. I loved the back-and-forth between candied, floral, nutty, and saline, finished with the lingering kick of smoky umami from the celery root. As good as that was though, the dish was even better when crowned with tartufo bianco. The musk and funk of the white truffle really served as a sort of overarching intermediary between the various forces mentioned above, and was basically the perfect finishing, integrating touch. This might be the best "savory dessert" I've ever had.
Here we have our second BYO bottle, the 2015 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux Grand Cru, which comes to us from an excellent vintage. The red Burgundy highlighted aromas of tangy strawberries commixed with a delightful suānméi character, while the palate showed moderate tannins alongside herb, red fruit, and florals. As the night progressed, the bouquet began displaying a lot more black pepper to go along with the existing strawberry, and taste-wise, the influence of oak seemed to become more apparent. This is still a relatively young wine, and while it was drinking swell tonight, I think it'd improve further with age.
10: MAINE LOBSTER | Black Mission Fig. Charred Onion. Bronze Fennel. Sauce of Dried Chilies. Laminated Brioche
Lobster (tail and claw) arrived grilled over embers, its natural sweetness augmented by a more concentrated lobster shell emulsion. Even more important was the elegantly smoky, nutty heat of a salsa macha-esque sauce made from dried chilies and seeds, while brûléed black mission figs, chargrilled onion, and bronze fennel lightened the mood. The crustacean was paired with a beautifully constructed laminated brioche that had Échiré butter folded in, making for a marvelously shattery crust and a tender, buttery crumb. Be sure to use the bread to mop up any of the leftover sauce.
11: A5 MIYAZAKI WAGYU | Smoked and Grilled Unagi. Battera Kombu. Crispy Leek. Blackened Garlic. A Sauce of Roasted Oxtail
Eye of the ribeye was grilled over embers of binchotan and almond wood, imbuing the luxurious, well-marbled cut with a subtle smoke. The beef was then capped with freshwater eel (brined, smoked, and grilled in-house), white kelp, and crispy leeks to keep things interesting. Meanwhile, also on the plate was a deeply savory, salty purée of housemade koji and black garlic, topped off with roasted oxtail jus.
To pair with the steak, we were given a gratis pour of the Pierre Paillard 2019, 'Vieilles Vignes Meunier', Extra Brut, Taissy Premier Cru, Champagne. According to Sommelier Ingraham, the wine spent six years sur lie, and it did indeed stand up to the richness of the preceding meat. Bouquet-wise, the Pinot Meunier brought plenty of brioche commingled with ripe orchard fruits and a bit of pâtisserie. Taking a sip, I found a robust acidity and more of those toasty notes, alongside juicy red apples and a mineral underpinning. Quite nice.
12: AMAZAKE | Coconut. Passion Fruit. Sake
With our final savory dispensed with, it was now time for our parade of desserts to begin. According to Pastry Chef Biehl, koji and rice were steeped for a few days, with the resultant liquid made into a mousse. This was placed over a sake-infused rice pudding, then topped with passion fruit granité, passion fruit pâte de fruit, and coconut sorbet. The overall effect spotlighted the interplay between passion fruit and coconut, but set over a headier base of rice and amazake. I also found some nice nutty bits to boot.
13: BLACKENED BANANA | Koshihikari Rice. Medjool Date. Shiro Miso Caramel. Roasted Rice Donut
My favorite of the desserts was composed of a base of banana-miso jam, date cake, a blackened banana entremet filled with ginger-cinnamon chiffon cake, banana mousse, white chocolate, toasted rice ice cream, a tuile for texture, and most interestingly, a blackened banana oil made from leftover banana peels. Poured tableside was a warm shiromiso caramel that added salt, funk, and umami to the dish's already deep, decadent, caramelized, unabashedly banana-y character. This really could be the best banana dessert I've ever had. Meanwhile, also present was a fun, fluffy, freshly-made doughnut stuffed with a subtly savory toasted rice pastry cream.
To pair with dessert, we opened up the 1966 Château d'Yquem that I'd brought. The wine certainly smelled mature, but still offered a palpable freshness, with its oodles of tropical pineapple melding with loads of brown sugar and a smidge of herb. On the palate, I got tons of rich caramelized pineapple (it reminded me of the "spit roast pineapple" at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal) along with a bit of "dusty" stone fruit and a trace of bitterness on the back end. At the same time, the acidity was still there for balance, though I wouldn't have minded more of it. All in all, I'd say that the Sauternes has held up pretty well for being just shy of 60-years-old.
14: CARROT TARTELETTE | Ginger. Sesame Praline. Bronze Fennel
15: STROOPWAFFLE | Rhubarb. Toasted Milk Crémeux
We now entered the petit four portion of our meal. I opted to start with the tartlet, which consisted of a carrot chip base containing a brown butter sablé, sesame praline purée, bronze fennel, ginger mousse glazed with carrot, and a sesame-caramel tuile. This all made for a lovely bite, and interestingly, the herbaceous, spicy, nutty flavors here actually reminded me a bit of Chinese medicine. We also had a stroopwafel that brought together rhubarb pâtes de fruits, rhubarb jam, and fresh rhubarb, all kept in check by a toasted milk cremeaux. Nice texture on the wafers, too.
16: BROWN BUTTER FINANCIER | Matcha. Fig Leaf. Pear
Our final mignardise was an unusually buttery financier that really drew attention to the beurre noisette. The richness of the cake was tempered a tad by a grassy matcha ganache, as well as a fig leaf cremeaux and fresh pear segments.
At this point, we were led back out into the patio garden for the final phase of our dinner.
White tea from Thailand sourced by PARU in La Jolla was blended with lemon balm, lemon verbena, and a hint of Sichuan peppercorn. Cozy, sweet, and herbaceous, this served as a fitting closer to our Lilo experience.
We were then handed a printed copy of the night's tasting menu, which was priced at a pre-paid $265 a head, plus 20% service and 7.75% tax, which seems pretty damn reasonable. Note the personalization and signatures from the entire crew, which were some appreciated touches for sure. Click for larger versions.
I was of course saddened by the closure of Auburn, but thankfully, Lilo is no doubt a worthy replacement. Bost's cooking here reads contemporary coastal Californian with Japanese influences, and compared to Auburn, there are indeed similar philosophies at play, steady throughlines--a consistent thoughtfulness, creativity, comfort. However, the experience in Carlsbad tends towards the more personal, the more immersive, the more evocative. Service has also been further heightened, while the restaurant's non-alcoholic beverage program is perhaps the best I've encountered. Lilo was awarded a Michelin star a mere 10 weeks after opening; in my estimation, it deserves another. A contender for my top meal of the year.
2571 Roosevelt St, Carlsbad, CA 92008
442-303-8245
www.restaurantlilo.com
Sat 11/22/2025, 05:00p-08:05p
I first crossed paths with Eric Bost 16 years ago, after a superb meal at the bastion of French haute cuisine that is Guy Savoy. I figured that I'd never see him again, as the Chef ended up leaving the country shortly after, headed to Singapore to open a new Savoy outpost at the Marina Bay Sands. Well, that turned out not to be the case. Bost ended up returning to the United States in 2014 and wound up in Los Angeles, where he linked up with Sprout LA and began running the kitchen at République. He had larger ambitious though, and subsequently partnered with Sprout to launch Auburn, which bowed in March 2019. The modern Cal-French spot was where I had my best LA meal that year, and thus, its shutter during the early days of the pandemic represented the COVID-19 closure I was the saddest about.
Following said closure, Bost quickly moved down to the San Diego area (where he'd cooked early on in his career) and teamed up with John Resnick, taking over the kitchens at both Jeune et Jolie and Campfire. The two then further deepened their relationship, and made the decision to debut two new projects together. In late 2021, they purchased a property just up the street from Jeune et Jolie with the goal of creating two complimentary dining concepts: an all-day eatery/bakery called Wildland, and a fine dining spot by the name of Lilo. After numerous delays, Wildland opened in December 2024, while Lilo's first official day of service was on April 17th. Given my history with Bost, I absolutely had to make my way down here to see what he was up to.
Joining Bost is Chef de Cuisine Dušan Todić, who actually hails from Belgrade, Serbia. After spending the early part of his career in his home country, Todić made his way to the US in 2016. He was able to secure employment at San Diego's poshest restaurant, Addison, located inside the Fairmont Grand Del Mar. From there, he went over to Jeune et Julie, taking charge after Andrew Bachelier's departure, then returned to Serbia to become Executive Chef at Square Nine Hotel in Belgrade, where he'd cooked previously. Todić came back to the States in 2023 to serve as Lilo's CdC, where he remains as Bost's second-in-command.
Meanwhile, Pastry Chef duties are handled by Madeline Biehl, who actually comes to Lilo from the much-lauded SingleThread up in Healdsburg. Prior to that, she worked for SD-based restaurant group CH Projects (f.k.a. Consortium Holdings), and before that, spent time at Addison and North County mainstay Pacifica Del Mar.
The front-of-the-house is the charge of General Manager Rachel Debber, a Fresno native who first arrived in San Diego to study kinesiology at California State University San Marcos. However, she decided to pivot to a career in hospitality, and got started as a hostess at Campfire. She worked various positions at the restaurant before switching over to Jeune et Jolie. There, Debber began as a bartender before rising to the positions of bar manager, AGM, and finally GM. Thus, she was an obvious pick to lead the FOH here at Lilo.
Wine Director responsibilities are being taken care of Savannah Riedler, who started out in San Diego at places like Juniper & Ivy and Vino Carta. From there, she relocated to LA and worked at Republique before heading up the coast to Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur. Following, she explored winemaking at Ramey Wine Cellars in Sonoma, Gramercy Cellars in the Columbia Valley, and Rhys Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Riedler then arrived in San Francisco, landing at Quince and Saison before joining the team here, where she's supported in her duties by Sommelier Caitlin Ingraham.
Rounding things out is Beverage Director Andrew Cordero, an SDSU grad who cut his teeth in hospitality at Bencotto in Little Italy. He later moved over to the beer-focused Bottlecraft, then was hired by CH Projects, where he bartended at Noble Experiment, Morning Glory, and Seneca. In 2023, Cordero connected with the team at Campfire/Jeune et Jolie, and now leads the bar program at Lilo.
A fun fact: The moniker of "Lilo" (lie-low) is a neologism found in John Koenig's The Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows, where it's defined as "a friendship that can lie dormant for years only to pick right back up instantly, as if you’d seen each other last week." Thus, the idea is that Lilo is a restaurant that expresses this ethos of reconnection.
My party arrived early for our reservation, and thus headed over to Wildland (housed in the same building) to kill some time.
We ended up enjoying a round of cocktails. Going left to right, we had:
- Greyhound [$16.00] | Gin. Chamomile. Suze. Grapefruit – A smart take on the classic that bolstered the expected grapefruit with the bittersweet, herby, floral qualities of gentian and chamomile.
- Margarita [$16.00] | Mezcal. Amaro. Chrysanthemum. Celery. – An even smarter take on a classic that deftly incorporated the vegetal-grassiness of celery, setting it against earthy, smoky mezcal, all while chrysanthemum imparted sweetness.
- Amaretto Sour Milk Punch [$16.00] | Amaretto. Bourbon. Almond. Toasted Tea. – This one did indeed capture the essence of an amaretto sour, rendering it in a soft, silky manner that seemed to only further emphasize the drink's sweet, nutty nature.
- Miami Vice Milk Punch [$15.00] | Rum. Strawberry. Coconut. Campari. – In this final cocktail, a sort of lactic sweetness paired swimmingly with the drink's fruity, sour elements, the rum imparting just enough heft to keep things in line.
When dinner time rolled around, we moseyed on back to Lilo, where our evening began in the garden patio area. It's a bit of a transportive place to be, in a sense a linkage between the outside environment and the dinner proper to follow.
Pictured above is the garden menu, which lists a small array of apéritif-y beverages. Click for a larger version.
Kicking things off was a complimentary welcome drink: clarified green tomato juice combined with housemade tonic (grapefruit peel, lemon zest, tarragon) and finished with citrus fern. Essentially a sort of tomato soda, it served as a very fitting apéro, its citrusy, vegetal, invigorating disposition really doing a great job perking up the palate.
1: DEER ISLE SCALLOP | Fermented Raspberry. Citrus Fern. Marigold
We were then treated to a few bites from the garde manger, and up first was a one-year-old scallop from Sue Buxton, a fifth-generation Mainer and founder of Day Boat Fresh. The bivalve arrived marinated in citrus fern oil and was accompanied by shiso, lacto-fermented raspberry purée, more citrus fern, and marigold. Think bright and zippy with a distinct citrus character, juxtaposed with the subtle salinity of the scallop.
SOCHA [$23.00] | Vodka. Cucumber. Bermutto. Anise Hyssop
We ended up trying both low-ABV cocktails available, and this first one was definitely on the refreshing, easy-going side, with plenty of cucumber combined with the fruity complexities of Japanese vermouth.
2: SWEET CORN CROUSTADE | Green Blueberries. Lemon Balm. Basil. Spring Blossoms
Our second canapé was derived from corn, juiced and thickened with its natural starchiness into pudding form. This velvety custard was further enhanced by baby corn, and did a wonderful job showing off the intrinsic sweetness of the maize, while also demonstrating this almost foie gras-esque richness. This was then offset by zingier flavors of green blueberry, fresh seasonal herbs (baby thyme, lemon balm, mint), cilantro flowers, and lemon peel. However, the best part just might've been that delightfully crunchy, corn-y, savory crust. Our favorite of the opening bites.
WATASHIATO [$23.00] | Junmai Sake. Jasmine. Salers
This sake-based cocktail was excellent, masterfully blending the enchantingly floral flavors of jasmine with the robust bittersweetness of gentian, all layered over a nihonshu base.
3: BIG EYE TUNA AND WAGYU BEEF TARTARE | Yuzu. Black Radish. Ginger. Spruce
4: SANTA BARBARA SEA URCHIN | Butternut Squash. Koji. Myoga. White Alyssum
Bluefin tuna and A5 wagyu were expertly combined in tartare form, making for a briny, umami-packed duo well-countered by yuzu gel, fermented black radishes, spruce tips, and radish flowers. I loved the super aggressive crunch here, too. Perhaps even tastier was the rye-uni tartlet, which comprised a rye base topped with pepita butter, toasted pepitas, a mousse of red miso-caramelized uni, uni glazed with kōji water and smoked shōyu, Alyssum flowers, pickled myōga, jalapeños, and lime zest. There was a lot going on, but the key was the interplay between the umami-packed salinity of the urchin and the nuttiness of those pumpkin seeds. Fantastic crunch on this one as well.
TENDERHOOK [$18.00] | Pineapple. Osmanthus. Nori
This mocktail managed to be a winner as well. I loved the floral, tea-like aromatics going on, and how that meshed perfectly with the grassy-savoriness of the seaweed, all while juicy notes of pineapple made themselves known towards the back end. The Lilo team really does do a bang-up job with their non-alcoholic beverages.
5: GOUGÈRE | Comté Mornay. Barrel-Aged Maple Syrup. Ibérico Lardo
Our last bite in the garden brought a gougère filled with Comté-based Mornay sauce, capped with cerdo ibérico lardo brushed with aged maple syrup and dusted with pepper. This was quite unlike any gougère I've had before, and while it displayed some of the classic qualities of the choux pastry, the crux here was clearly how the sugariness of the maple functioned as a counter to that lush, fatty pork.
At this point, we were given Lilo's beverage list to peruse. To accompany the meal, guests are offered a beverage pairing at $190, a non-alcoholic pairing at $110 (which one of my dining companions opted for), a mixed "Goldilocks" pairing at $165, and a Champagne pairing at $290. Click for a larger version.
Here we see the restaurant's cocktail list and choices of wines by the glass. Click for larger versions.
Lilo's wine list is set up differently than any other I've seen, as there's a separate section dedicated solely to California wines, broken up by geographical region. This idea is to really celebrate the range of bottlings available from the State. Click for larger versions.
And here we have the more traditional presentation of the wine list, with all countries represented. Corkage is $100 a pop for the first bottle, then $150 afterwards. Click for larger versions.
And finally, Lilo's selection of spirits. Click for larger versions.
Following the amuse-bouche round, we headed from the courtyard to the dining room-slash-open kitchen, which boasts a 16-seat chef's counter and two four-seater tables. The space was penned by the team over at Bells + Whistles, an LA-based firm that also designed Jeune et Jolie. Meant to pay tribute to the naturalistic beauty of the California coast, it's quite a lovely place to be thanks to its understated, laidback luxury. Note that this building was previously occupied by auto repair shop Carlsbad British Motor Cars, and was home to Carlsbad Collision Care Inc before that. If you want to go back even further, it was here where Morey boogie boards (a.k.a. bodyboards) were once crafted.
6: SPINY LOBSTER | Charred Cucumber. Blackberry. Kinome. Tomatillo
Once we were seated, the night's first "proper" course appeared without much delay. Locally-caught langusta was gently steamed, then served with Girl & Dug iceplant, charred cucumber, finger lime, blackberries, and kinome leaf, which all combined to offer a bevy of bright, citrusy, herby nuances that complemented the sweetness of the spiny lobster admirably. A zingy centrifuge-clarified tomatillo gelée was then applied tableside, while finishing things off was a charred cucumber oil that lent a smoky, savory quality to the dish. Note also the ice bowl utilized, made in-house with a custom mold from MoldBrothers.
At this point, we were offered a complimentary pour of the Hélène Charbaut (09.24) 2021, 'Les Pinailleuses', Extra Brut, Mareuil-Sur-Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne, Champagne. A blanc de noirs that reportedly spent nine months in oak and 30 months on the lees, this smelled of juicy orchard fruit tinged with brioche. On the palate, I found a healthy dosing of acidity, along with a plethora of green apple flavors supported by an agreeable toastiness and a backbone of minerality. Quite lovely overall.
7: ABALONE | Grilled Over Embers. Brushed with Fermented Pepper and Guanciale. Tempura of Brassicas. Oyster Emulsion. Allium Powder. A Broth of Roasted Chicken and Bone Marrow
Baja abalone was brushed with an aioli of Jimmy Nardellos, guanciale, and colatura before being grilled, resulting in a both a perfectly meaty-yet-delicate texture and a beautiful char and caramelization. All this delicious smoke and savor and salinity was then augmented by an earthy, comforting, deeply flavorful roasted chicken and bone marrow consommé, while balancing things out was the zestiness of turnips, tatsoi, mustard greens, and borage flowers. One of my dining companions commented this this was the best abalone he'd ever eaten, and I might have to agree with him. Meanwhile, serving as a contrast to the abalone were tempura-fried sesame leaves and yu choy, which proffered some light, vegetal, crunchy sensations, while there was also a condiment of heady oyster emulsion dusted with grassy Allium powder. My only quibble here was that the tempura was a tad oilier than I would've liked.
Following the course above, wetted towels were provided given the hands-on nature of the fried veggies--a welcomed nicety.
We BYOB'd three bottles tonight, and up first was the 2000 René & Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses. Initially, the nose here was dominated by caramelized apples, with nutty, oxidative nuances, while the palate skewed sweet and almost honeyed, with more of those candied nut notes. With more time, the Chablis evolved and began demonstrating a bouquet filled with luscious pineapple tinged with funk and lemon; in the mouth, think thick and tropical, with both grassiness and citrusiness linking up with the wine's rich, caramel-y character. Given that this was a 25-year-old white Burgundy, I was a bit concerned that it'd be completely gone, so thankfully that wasn't the case.
8: IKEJIME BLACK COD | Matsutake Mushroom. Asian Pear. Lime Kosho. A Sabayon of Pineau des Charentes
Black cod was dry-aged in-house for four days to improve texture and concentrate flavors. The resulting fish showed off a wondrously supple, luscious consistency, while taste-wise, I found a sophisticated sweet salinity. However, the lime and Pineau Charentais-boosted sabayon seemed domineering at first, as they tended to overpower the more restrained nature of the cod. It was only when I applied those foraged matsutakes (and matsutake oil) that everything fell into place, as the woodsy spice of the 'shrooms really served to moderate and amalgamate everything.
White truffles from Piedmont were then presented tableside. Given that we were nearing the end of the season's peak, we opted to add a couple 2.5-gram shavings of these beauties to our next course, at $60 a pop.
9: N25 KALUGA CAVIAR | Orgeat Ice Cream. Smoked Celery Root Bushi. Freshly Pressed Almond Oil
It was now time for a mid-menu dessert of sorts. An orgeat ice cream (candied almonds, orange blossom water) was crowned with a quenelle of N25 kaluga hybrid caviar, then topped with fleur de sel, shavings of a katsuobushi-inspired celeriac "bushi" (marinate in tamari and brown sugar, then cold-smoke over applewood for two days before drying), and freshly-pressed almond oil. I loved the back-and-forth between candied, floral, nutty, and saline, finished with the lingering kick of smoky umami from the celery root. As good as that was though, the dish was even better when crowned with tartufo bianco. The musk and funk of the white truffle really served as a sort of overarching intermediary between the various forces mentioned above, and was basically the perfect finishing, integrating touch. This might be the best "savory dessert" I've ever had.
Here we have our second BYO bottle, the 2015 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux Grand Cru, which comes to us from an excellent vintage. The red Burgundy highlighted aromas of tangy strawberries commixed with a delightful suānméi character, while the palate showed moderate tannins alongside herb, red fruit, and florals. As the night progressed, the bouquet began displaying a lot more black pepper to go along with the existing strawberry, and taste-wise, the influence of oak seemed to become more apparent. This is still a relatively young wine, and while it was drinking swell tonight, I think it'd improve further with age.
10: MAINE LOBSTER | Black Mission Fig. Charred Onion. Bronze Fennel. Sauce of Dried Chilies. Laminated Brioche
Lobster (tail and claw) arrived grilled over embers, its natural sweetness augmented by a more concentrated lobster shell emulsion. Even more important was the elegantly smoky, nutty heat of a salsa macha-esque sauce made from dried chilies and seeds, while brûléed black mission figs, chargrilled onion, and bronze fennel lightened the mood. The crustacean was paired with a beautifully constructed laminated brioche that had Échiré butter folded in, making for a marvelously shattery crust and a tender, buttery crumb. Be sure to use the bread to mop up any of the leftover sauce.
11: A5 MIYAZAKI WAGYU | Smoked and Grilled Unagi. Battera Kombu. Crispy Leek. Blackened Garlic. A Sauce of Roasted Oxtail
Eye of the ribeye was grilled over embers of binchotan and almond wood, imbuing the luxurious, well-marbled cut with a subtle smoke. The beef was then capped with freshwater eel (brined, smoked, and grilled in-house), white kelp, and crispy leeks to keep things interesting. Meanwhile, also on the plate was a deeply savory, salty purée of housemade koji and black garlic, topped off with roasted oxtail jus.
To pair with the steak, we were given a gratis pour of the Pierre Paillard 2019, 'Vieilles Vignes Meunier', Extra Brut, Taissy Premier Cru, Champagne. According to Sommelier Ingraham, the wine spent six years sur lie, and it did indeed stand up to the richness of the preceding meat. Bouquet-wise, the Pinot Meunier brought plenty of brioche commingled with ripe orchard fruits and a bit of pâtisserie. Taking a sip, I found a robust acidity and more of those toasty notes, alongside juicy red apples and a mineral underpinning. Quite nice.
12: AMAZAKE | Coconut. Passion Fruit. Sake
With our final savory dispensed with, it was now time for our parade of desserts to begin. According to Pastry Chef Biehl, koji and rice were steeped for a few days, with the resultant liquid made into a mousse. This was placed over a sake-infused rice pudding, then topped with passion fruit granité, passion fruit pâte de fruit, and coconut sorbet. The overall effect spotlighted the interplay between passion fruit and coconut, but set over a headier base of rice and amazake. I also found some nice nutty bits to boot.
13: BLACKENED BANANA | Koshihikari Rice. Medjool Date. Shiro Miso Caramel. Roasted Rice Donut
My favorite of the desserts was composed of a base of banana-miso jam, date cake, a blackened banana entremet filled with ginger-cinnamon chiffon cake, banana mousse, white chocolate, toasted rice ice cream, a tuile for texture, and most interestingly, a blackened banana oil made from leftover banana peels. Poured tableside was a warm shiromiso caramel that added salt, funk, and umami to the dish's already deep, decadent, caramelized, unabashedly banana-y character. This really could be the best banana dessert I've ever had. Meanwhile, also present was a fun, fluffy, freshly-made doughnut stuffed with a subtly savory toasted rice pastry cream.
To pair with dessert, we opened up the 1966 Château d'Yquem that I'd brought. The wine certainly smelled mature, but still offered a palpable freshness, with its oodles of tropical pineapple melding with loads of brown sugar and a smidge of herb. On the palate, I got tons of rich caramelized pineapple (it reminded me of the "spit roast pineapple" at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal) along with a bit of "dusty" stone fruit and a trace of bitterness on the back end. At the same time, the acidity was still there for balance, though I wouldn't have minded more of it. All in all, I'd say that the Sauternes has held up pretty well for being just shy of 60-years-old.
14: CARROT TARTELETTE | Ginger. Sesame Praline. Bronze Fennel
15: STROOPWAFFLE | Rhubarb. Toasted Milk Crémeux
We now entered the petit four portion of our meal. I opted to start with the tartlet, which consisted of a carrot chip base containing a brown butter sablé, sesame praline purée, bronze fennel, ginger mousse glazed with carrot, and a sesame-caramel tuile. This all made for a lovely bite, and interestingly, the herbaceous, spicy, nutty flavors here actually reminded me a bit of Chinese medicine. We also had a stroopwafel that brought together rhubarb pâtes de fruits, rhubarb jam, and fresh rhubarb, all kept in check by a toasted milk cremeaux. Nice texture on the wafers, too.
16: BROWN BUTTER FINANCIER | Matcha. Fig Leaf. Pear
Our final mignardise was an unusually buttery financier that really drew attention to the beurre noisette. The richness of the cake was tempered a tad by a grassy matcha ganache, as well as a fig leaf cremeaux and fresh pear segments.
At this point, we were led back out into the patio garden for the final phase of our dinner.
White tea from Thailand sourced by PARU in La Jolla was blended with lemon balm, lemon verbena, and a hint of Sichuan peppercorn. Cozy, sweet, and herbaceous, this served as a fitting closer to our Lilo experience.
We were then handed a printed copy of the night's tasting menu, which was priced at a pre-paid $265 a head, plus 20% service and 7.75% tax, which seems pretty damn reasonable. Note the personalization and signatures from the entire crew, which were some appreciated touches for sure. Click for larger versions.
I was of course saddened by the closure of Auburn, but thankfully, Lilo is no doubt a worthy replacement. Bost's cooking here reads contemporary coastal Californian with Japanese influences, and compared to Auburn, there are indeed similar philosophies at play, steady throughlines--a consistent thoughtfulness, creativity, comfort. However, the experience in Carlsbad tends towards the more personal, the more immersive, the more evocative. Service has also been further heightened, while the restaurant's non-alcoholic beverage program is perhaps the best I've encountered. Lilo was awarded a Michelin star a mere 10 weeks after opening; in my estimation, it deserves another. A contender for my top meal of the year.
posted by kevinEats at
5:00 PM
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