Monsieur Dior (Beverly Hills, CA)
Monsieur Dior by Dominique Crenn
323 N Rodeo Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310-859-4700
www.monsieurdiorbeverlyhills.com
Sat 12/06/2025, 05:00p-08:20p
I was first introduced to Dominique Crenn back in 2011, when I had a wonderful meal at her eponymous San Francisco spot Atelier Crenn. The success of that restaurant allowed the Chef to expand her reach with the more rustic Petit Crenn in 2015 (closed last September) and the cocktail-y Bar Crenn in 2018, both in SF. She also found consulting roles with Antoinette at the Claremont Resort & Club in Berkeley (opened in February 2016 and closed after two months) and Golden Poppy at La Fantaisie hotel in Paris (opened in June 2023 and closed after a year).
However, I'd always hoped that Crenn would consider a project in the Los Angeles area, given that she spent eight years here between 1999 and 2007, mostly at the Manhattan Country Club, but also at Abode in Santa Monica. Thus, when it was announced that she'd be in charge of the kitchen at the new Monsieur Dior outpost in BH, my interest was instantly piqued. The place opened back at the end of October, so I knew that I had to prioritize a meal.
The first Monsieur Dior actually opened in April 2022 inside Christian Dior's 8th arrondissement flagship. In charge of the cuisine initially was Jean Imbert, though he's since been replaced by Yannick Alléno. There's also a location planned for Osaka, with Anne-Sophie Pic in charge. Then you have the more casual, daytime-only Café Dior by Dominique Crenn, which debuted in February this year at Dallas' Highland Park Village development. The venture was created in partnership with Brady Wood's WoodHouse, and that hospitality firm was originally going to be part of this restaurant as well, but those plans ultimately fell through. Instead, Dior ended up teaming with none other than Patina Restaurant Group, so yes, Monsieur Dior is actually part of the sprawling entity that is Delaware North.
Running the kitchen on a day-to-day basis here is Cameron Ingle, who actually cut his teeth at the old Bouchon in Beverly Hills before taking on sous roles at both Bestia and Bavel. From there, he moved over to Dan Barber's iconic Blue Hill at Stone Barns, then became Executive Chef at Pico in Los Alamos, and later EC at Marisi in La Jolla.
He's supported by corporate chef Christian Dortch, who started out at Hanna's Restaurant & Bar in Rancho Santa Margarita. Following, he began a multi-year tenure under none other than Curtis Stone, starting out as a sous chef at Maude. He then helped open Gwen before heading up operations at SHARE by Curtis Stone, a family-style dining concept created for Princess Cruises. When that was shut down due to the pandemic, Dortch took control of the kitchen at Georgie by Curtis Stone, a steak-focused spot in Dallas, where he stayed until April 2023.
The elevator's one of the fanciest I've seen, which I guess shouldn't be too surprising given where we are.
The restaurant resides on the third floor of the newly-constructed House of Dior building on Rodeo Drive, which was penned by architect Peter Marino. Marino was also responsible for the design of Monsieur Dior, a colorful, cheery, relatively relaxed space divided into a bar/lounge area, the main dining room, and an outdoor terrace patio. Pictured above is the view from the entrance.
And here we see the main dining room, replete with a wall-spanning mural from Nicole Wittenberg entitled Gardens of Courances (2025). Note that we were one of the first to be seated, hence the lack of fellow diners. The space definitely filled up as the evening progressed.
We wanted to begin the meal with cocktails and bar bites, and hence requested the bar menu, which also lists the restaurant's offerings of wines by the glass, beer, spirits, coffee, and tea. Corkage is $100 a bottle, limit two ($200 for magnums). Sommelier duties tonight were deftly handled by Andrew Merritt, an alumnus of Maude, Gwen, Marché Moderne, Harley Laguna Beach, Absinthe Brasserie & Bar, Del Popolo, Park Tavern, The Cavalier, Heirloom Cafe, Saison, Leopold's Gasthaus, Beach Chalet Brewery and Restaurant, Michael Mina, Jardinière (those last 10 in San Francisco), Mesa, Aubergine, and Napa Rose. Click for larger versions.
Monsieur Dior's nouvelle-ish French-Californian menu proper is pleasingly compact, divvied up simply into sections for starters, mains, and desserts. This made it quite easy for us to run the gamut and order everything. Click for larger versions.
Unsurprisingly, the plateware, glassware, and silverware mostly come from Dior's home collection, and many of the pieces are available for purchase.
Potato Choux Puff [$13.00 + $6.50]
First to arrive were these potato pâte à choux puffs, a triad of creamy, golden-fried, yet delicate canapés that I could've easily popped a few more of.
Diorama [$25.00] | Apricot, Vanilla, Agave, Tequila
We sampled three cocktails this evening, and this first one highlighted the interaction between citrus, stone fruit, and the heft of agave, laced with a pleasantly floral component from the vanilla.
Onion Tart, Date [$14.00 + $7.00]
Here we have my favorite of the bar bites. I was a fan of how the sweetness of caramelized onion and the fruitiness of date played with the zestiness of onion petals and an onion soubise, with the tart shell working as a crunchy counterpoint to it all.
Next came the actual amuse-bouche course, which I believe comprised tangy tomato tartlets set in a "grain-y" buckwheat base.
Bread service brought out a spot-on sourdough and a delightfully buttery, croissant-y, super-shattery laminated brioche, both sourced from Clark Street Bakery and accompanied by a wonderfully soft-n-sweet cultured Normandy butter.
Uni Tart, Black Truffle [$19.00 + $9.50]
Here, the oceany qualities of sea urchin were supplemented by the woodiness of black truffle, with both the pastry shell and a touch of vinegariness serving to keep things in check. My quibble was that the uni wasn't quite as "clean" as I would've liked.
Rose Nectar [$23.00] | Damask Rosebud, Pink Peppercorn, Campari, Vermouth, Gin
This next cocktail was a negroni-like concoction that played a base of softly floral nuances against the signature bittersweetness of vermouth and Campari.
Nori Crab Roll, Caviar [$38.00 + $19.00]
Here, a crispy nori tube was stuffed with crab, dotted with lime gel, and capped with caviar. The end result ate unabashedly saline, with the seaweed's grassiness and umami serving to counteract the potency of both the crustacean and the roe.
Caviar Service [$175.00] | Smoked Crème Fraîche, Egg Yolk Jam, Pickled Shallot
30 grams of Kaviari golden osetra caviar arrived boasting a rather striking houndstooth pattern. The almost nutty brine of the roe was well-matched by accoutrements of smoked crème fraîche and shallots, and even better by a dense layer of egg yolk. The caviar was certainly tasty alone, but did indeed pair swimmingly with those fluffy, tender, sweet-savory madeleines.
Oyster, Koji Cream [$16.00 + $8.00]
Kumamoto oysters tasted patently of the sea, their oceany qualities meshing easily with the savory smack of koji. However, the most surprising thing here was that floral component, which, in addition to proffering a striking dash of color, gave the bite a rather unusual, almost beguiling mouthfeel.
Coffee Elixir [$26.00] | Coffee, Coconut, Vetiver, Vodka
For our last cocktail, the classic espresso martini was given a makeover. Monsieur Dior's version certainly drank sweeter than most, with a distinctly chocolate-y, coconut-y character amped up by the woodsy complexities of that vetiver.
Cucumber & Jalapeño, Brioche [$14.00 + $7.00]
Our final starting savory bites consisted of toasty brioche crowned with bright shingles of cucumber, the two elements held together by a slathering of jalapeño aioli.
Tuna Violette Bouquet [$32.00] | Dry-Aged Tuna Tartare, Purple Yam Chips, Sesame
And now, our first proper course. San Diego-sourced tuna showed off boatloads of depth and umami along with a bit of nuttiness from the sesame oil, so the crunch of the fried yams was crucial for contrast, while an onion-boosted crème fraîche helped bind the dish together.
At this point, we opened up a bottle of white Burgundy that we'd BYOB'd: the 2005 Paul Pernot Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Initial whiffs brought bountiful amounts of yellow fruit backed by touches of grassiness and minerality, while on the palate, the Chardonnay went in a generally round, citrusy, spicy direction. With time, the nose turned richer, butterier, and taste-wise, the oak also became more prominent, as did this palpable, long-lingering ribbon of brine that I quite fancied. Overall, I'd say that the wine has held up quite well over the past 20 years.
Beef Tartare Couture [$38.00] | Shaved Beef Tartare, Egg Yolk Jam, Bone Marrow Vinaigrette
The steak tartare was a winner, showing off some deep, gratifying flavors that were lightened up by the incorporation of shallots and Dijon mustard, with a marrow-augmented vinaigrette functioning to integrate the various components. I was also a fan of the texture of the meat, and liked the additional crunch imparted by those beetroot powder-dusted brioche crisps, too.
Salad Drapé [$29.00] | Lettuces, Pickled Radish, Maple Vinaigrette
This "draped" salad turned out quite a bit better than I thought it would. The brightness and bitterness of the various veggies (frisée, radicchio, daikon) was much appreciated, and combined effortlessly with the tangy-sweet nature of a maple-enriched vinaigrette. However, the key here for me was the incorporation of Marcona almonds (both puréed and chopped), which lent a nuttiness to the dish that really made it all cohesive.
Sunny Saint Jacques [$39.00] | Seared Scallops, Blood Orange, Caper Beurre Blanc
Seared scallops were well-textured and nicely-caramelized, with their buttery-sweetness on display. I enjoyed the juxtaposition with the brioche croutons, though some of the components here (kohlrabi purée, rutabaga discs, blood orange gel) didn't coalesce as well as I'd hoped.
Agnolotti Cousu Main [$39.00] | Black Truffle Agnolotti, Mushroom Consommé
A bowl of hand-rolled agnolotti in brodo was a table favorite. Stuffed primarily with mascarpone, Parmesan, and black truffle, the pasta was delicious on its own, but really shined when taken with the mushroom consommé, a heady, herby, yet delicate concoction that I reveled in. Meanwhile, mixing things up texturally was the crunch of that charcoal-tinted dehydrated mushroom tuile on top.
Goddess Garden [$34.00] | Baby Spinach and Lettuces, Granny Smith Apples, Green Goddess Dressing
The requisite vegan dish worked out well enough, with the bright, bitter veggies playing well with both the refreshing sweetness of the apples and the bready crunch of sourdough croutons, all while a feta-like coconut-based cheese added further oomph. Simultaneously, the green goddess imparted a creamy zing to the salad that served to unite all the ingredients.
It was now time for some red Burgundy in the form of the 2005 Domaine Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos Saint-Jacques that we'd also brought along. The wine smelled of juicy red fruit commixed with florals and a trace of nuttiness. In the mouth, I found omnipresent, yet restrained tannins, while flavors of strawberry abounded, joined by further nuances of black pepper and mineral, as well as an agreeable acidity. This was showing quite well tonight, but I suspect that the Pinot noir will have plenty more to give in the coming years.
Salmon Rouge [$58.00] | Confit Salmon, Fermented Red Pepper & Clams, Grilled Spinach
New Zealand coho salmon was confit'd in olive oil and seared, making for a rich, rare, almost luscious eating experience. The fish was complemented by an orzo-clam salad with tomato XO, as well as a fennel-onion purée, both of which mixed things up in terms of taste and texture, but even more crucial was the zippiness of those drapes of blistered red pepper. On the side was a bowl of sambal-sautéed Bloomsdale spinach, which offered a smoky-bitterness that really completed the dish for me.
Abalone Granville [$58.00] | Abalone, Anchovy au Poivre, Grilled Lettuces
Local abalone was perfectly grilled, giving it a mouthwatering mix of smoke, savor, and salinity. Elevating the gastropod's impact even further was a deeply-flavored kimo-enhanced peppercorn sauce, while lightening the mood were bitter veggies dressed with tangy lemon and olive oil. Everything just came together beautifully here--my favorite dish of the night.
Guinea Hen Rodeo [$62.00] | Guinea Hen, Maitake Mushroom, Pickled Turnips, Potato Millefeuille
We were quite a fan of the guinea hen as well. A farce of leg meat was inserted between breast and skin, making for a tender, juicy, multifaceted presentation of the bird. Amping things up were those earthy hen-of-the-woods and a demi-glace au poulet, though even more effective was the back-and-forth with the musk of those white truffles (a $90 surcharge that ended up being complimentary, I'm assuming because we ordered so much). Given the strong flavors present, the picked turnips and confit'd pearl onion petals were critical for balance, and the pomme purée on the side also helped keep things in line.
Beef Perlé [$82.00] | Slow-Cooked Beef Shortrib, Cauliflower Purée, Black Truffle
Short rib was sous-vide'd for 72 hours, then grilled and served with a demi-glace au bœuf. The result was a bevy of dark, sticky, robustly bovine flavors made all the better by those shaved truffles, moderated just a smidge by puréed cauliflower. The beef was accompanied by herby sautéed mixed mushrooms, set over a sunchoke purée and topped with a disk of black truffle-mushroom gelée.
To cap off the savory portion of our dinner, we were presented with servings of a delectably cozy mushroom-abalone(?) broth. Humorously, one of my dining companions commented that the bouillon possessed a "corn-y" finish that reminded him of Bugles snacks.
At this point, we retired into the restaurant's lounge/bar area to enjoy our dessert courses, and also requested a trio of digestifs to go along:
Coconut Rosé [$22.00] | Coconut Cream Tart, Raspberries, Pistachio
This rather pretty dish comprised a vanilla sponge cake with coconut pastry cream, raspberry-rose coulis, circles of rose-imprinted chocolate, Sicilian pistachios, mint, and pâte sucrée. The dessert was certainly visually engaging, while taste-wise, I found things floral and fruity, with a nice balance from the coconut and vanilla.
Feuilles Caramel [$21.00] | Hojicha Tea Bavarois, Salted Caramel, Almond
This was my favorite of the desserts, and combined a hojicha bavarois with layers of tonka bean ganache and salted caramel, all over a nutty, crunchy almond base. I really appreciated the subtlety of it all, especially the restraint of the salted caramel and how that intermixed with the subdued roastiness of the tea.
Fuchsia Sablé [$24.00] | Coffee Crémeux, Dark Chocolate Sablé, Mascarpone
This interactive dessert featured a base of dark chocolate sablé, piped with chocolate-espresso mousse, and capped with a chocolate disc. We were instructed to break said disc open with the back of a fork (crème brûlée-style) in order to find the surprises within: chocolate buttons and blocks of chocolate choux cake. Taken altogether, I quite liked the multiple forms of chocolate present, as well as the various textures going on, while that element of coffee mixed things up just enough.
Citrus Passion [$21.00] | Citrus Panna Cotta, Passion Fruit, Apricot
An orange-infused vanilla panna cotta did a great job showing off both its citrus and lactic components. I also liked the added sweetness from that jammy braised apricot, while the Breton cookie on the bottom helped keep things interesting texturally.
Chocolate Cannage [$26.00] | Chocolate Sponge and Mousse, Cherry Confiture
Our final dessert obviously took its visual cues from the iconic Lady Dior handbag, and was composed of devil's food cake with cherry jam and chocolate mousse, all encased in a dark chocolate shell embossed with the bag's signature cannage motif, with a gold-dusted chocolate bee emblem thrown in for good measure. The flavors here recalled that of a Forêt-Noire gâteau (Black Forest cake), a classic marriage of chocolate and dark fruit that was as tasty and effectual as ever.
Citrus Madeleine [$10.00 + $5.00]
Rounding things out was a series of petits fours. First came spherical madeleines filled with orange marmalade, then brushed with orange blossom syrup and dusted in demerara sugar. These were rather brazenly citrusy (one of my dining companions was actually reminded of Brach's orange slices), but fortunately, the cake portion helped tone things down.
Chocolate Mochi [$10.00 + $5.00]
Next came hemispheres of chocolate pastry cream enclosed in mochiko chocolate dough, then pinned with Dior's star motif rendered in chocolate and gold dust. As expected, this was all about rich flavors of cacao, but presented in a fun, chewy package.
Avocado Lime & Shiso "Taco" [$10.00 + $5.00]
Our final mignardise highlighted an avocado crémeux along with shiso, mint, and lime zest, all set in a "flower" tuile. Think herby, sweet, and sour--a refreshing conclusion to our dinner.
The conceit at Monsieur Dior is that its Cal-French cuisine is supposed to draw inspiration from the fashion house's long association with haute couture. I did see that linkage visually, and it worked, but mercifully, the flavors largely delivered as well. In essence, you do get some insight into Chef Crenn's distinctive culinary point of view, her artistry, her "poeticness" if you will, but portrayed in a more approachable, more prêt-à-porter fashion that's indeed fitting given the restaurant's location. I'm very curious to see how the cooking evolves here given the constraints at play.
323 N Rodeo Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310-859-4700
www.monsieurdiorbeverlyhills.com
Sat 12/06/2025, 05:00p-08:20p
I was first introduced to Dominique Crenn back in 2011, when I had a wonderful meal at her eponymous San Francisco spot Atelier Crenn. The success of that restaurant allowed the Chef to expand her reach with the more rustic Petit Crenn in 2015 (closed last September) and the cocktail-y Bar Crenn in 2018, both in SF. She also found consulting roles with Antoinette at the Claremont Resort & Club in Berkeley (opened in February 2016 and closed after two months) and Golden Poppy at La Fantaisie hotel in Paris (opened in June 2023 and closed after a year).
However, I'd always hoped that Crenn would consider a project in the Los Angeles area, given that she spent eight years here between 1999 and 2007, mostly at the Manhattan Country Club, but also at Abode in Santa Monica. Thus, when it was announced that she'd be in charge of the kitchen at the new Monsieur Dior outpost in BH, my interest was instantly piqued. The place opened back at the end of October, so I knew that I had to prioritize a meal.
The first Monsieur Dior actually opened in April 2022 inside Christian Dior's 8th arrondissement flagship. In charge of the cuisine initially was Jean Imbert, though he's since been replaced by Yannick Alléno. There's also a location planned for Osaka, with Anne-Sophie Pic in charge. Then you have the more casual, daytime-only Café Dior by Dominique Crenn, which debuted in February this year at Dallas' Highland Park Village development. The venture was created in partnership with Brady Wood's WoodHouse, and that hospitality firm was originally going to be part of this restaurant as well, but those plans ultimately fell through. Instead, Dior ended up teaming with none other than Patina Restaurant Group, so yes, Monsieur Dior is actually part of the sprawling entity that is Delaware North.
Running the kitchen on a day-to-day basis here is Cameron Ingle, who actually cut his teeth at the old Bouchon in Beverly Hills before taking on sous roles at both Bestia and Bavel. From there, he moved over to Dan Barber's iconic Blue Hill at Stone Barns, then became Executive Chef at Pico in Los Alamos, and later EC at Marisi in La Jolla.
He's supported by corporate chef Christian Dortch, who started out at Hanna's Restaurant & Bar in Rancho Santa Margarita. Following, he began a multi-year tenure under none other than Curtis Stone, starting out as a sous chef at Maude. He then helped open Gwen before heading up operations at SHARE by Curtis Stone, a family-style dining concept created for Princess Cruises. When that was shut down due to the pandemic, Dortch took control of the kitchen at Georgie by Curtis Stone, a steak-focused spot in Dallas, where he stayed until April 2023.
The elevator's one of the fanciest I've seen, which I guess shouldn't be too surprising given where we are.
The restaurant resides on the third floor of the newly-constructed House of Dior building on Rodeo Drive, which was penned by architect Peter Marino. Marino was also responsible for the design of Monsieur Dior, a colorful, cheery, relatively relaxed space divided into a bar/lounge area, the main dining room, and an outdoor terrace patio. Pictured above is the view from the entrance.
And here we see the main dining room, replete with a wall-spanning mural from Nicole Wittenberg entitled Gardens of Courances (2025). Note that we were one of the first to be seated, hence the lack of fellow diners. The space definitely filled up as the evening progressed.
We wanted to begin the meal with cocktails and bar bites, and hence requested the bar menu, which also lists the restaurant's offerings of wines by the glass, beer, spirits, coffee, and tea. Corkage is $100 a bottle, limit two ($200 for magnums). Sommelier duties tonight were deftly handled by Andrew Merritt, an alumnus of Maude, Gwen, Marché Moderne, Harley Laguna Beach, Absinthe Brasserie & Bar, Del Popolo, Park Tavern, The Cavalier, Heirloom Cafe, Saison, Leopold's Gasthaus, Beach Chalet Brewery and Restaurant, Michael Mina, Jardinière (those last 10 in San Francisco), Mesa, Aubergine, and Napa Rose. Click for larger versions.
Monsieur Dior's nouvelle-ish French-Californian menu proper is pleasingly compact, divvied up simply into sections for starters, mains, and desserts. This made it quite easy for us to run the gamut and order everything. Click for larger versions.
Unsurprisingly, the plateware, glassware, and silverware mostly come from Dior's home collection, and many of the pieces are available for purchase.
Potato Choux Puff [$13.00 + $6.50]
First to arrive were these potato pâte à choux puffs, a triad of creamy, golden-fried, yet delicate canapés that I could've easily popped a few more of.
Diorama [$25.00] | Apricot, Vanilla, Agave, Tequila
We sampled three cocktails this evening, and this first one highlighted the interaction between citrus, stone fruit, and the heft of agave, laced with a pleasantly floral component from the vanilla.
Onion Tart, Date [$14.00 + $7.00]
Here we have my favorite of the bar bites. I was a fan of how the sweetness of caramelized onion and the fruitiness of date played with the zestiness of onion petals and an onion soubise, with the tart shell working as a crunchy counterpoint to it all.
Next came the actual amuse-bouche course, which I believe comprised tangy tomato tartlets set in a "grain-y" buckwheat base.
Bread service brought out a spot-on sourdough and a delightfully buttery, croissant-y, super-shattery laminated brioche, both sourced from Clark Street Bakery and accompanied by a wonderfully soft-n-sweet cultured Normandy butter.
Uni Tart, Black Truffle [$19.00 + $9.50]
Here, the oceany qualities of sea urchin were supplemented by the woodiness of black truffle, with both the pastry shell and a touch of vinegariness serving to keep things in check. My quibble was that the uni wasn't quite as "clean" as I would've liked.
Rose Nectar [$23.00] | Damask Rosebud, Pink Peppercorn, Campari, Vermouth, Gin
This next cocktail was a negroni-like concoction that played a base of softly floral nuances against the signature bittersweetness of vermouth and Campari.
Nori Crab Roll, Caviar [$38.00 + $19.00]
Here, a crispy nori tube was stuffed with crab, dotted with lime gel, and capped with caviar. The end result ate unabashedly saline, with the seaweed's grassiness and umami serving to counteract the potency of both the crustacean and the roe.
Caviar Service [$175.00] | Smoked Crème Fraîche, Egg Yolk Jam, Pickled Shallot
30 grams of Kaviari golden osetra caviar arrived boasting a rather striking houndstooth pattern. The almost nutty brine of the roe was well-matched by accoutrements of smoked crème fraîche and shallots, and even better by a dense layer of egg yolk. The caviar was certainly tasty alone, but did indeed pair swimmingly with those fluffy, tender, sweet-savory madeleines.
Oyster, Koji Cream [$16.00 + $8.00]
Kumamoto oysters tasted patently of the sea, their oceany qualities meshing easily with the savory smack of koji. However, the most surprising thing here was that floral component, which, in addition to proffering a striking dash of color, gave the bite a rather unusual, almost beguiling mouthfeel.
Coffee Elixir [$26.00] | Coffee, Coconut, Vetiver, Vodka
For our last cocktail, the classic espresso martini was given a makeover. Monsieur Dior's version certainly drank sweeter than most, with a distinctly chocolate-y, coconut-y character amped up by the woodsy complexities of that vetiver.
Cucumber & Jalapeño, Brioche [$14.00 + $7.00]
Our final starting savory bites consisted of toasty brioche crowned with bright shingles of cucumber, the two elements held together by a slathering of jalapeño aioli.
Tuna Violette Bouquet [$32.00] | Dry-Aged Tuna Tartare, Purple Yam Chips, Sesame
And now, our first proper course. San Diego-sourced tuna showed off boatloads of depth and umami along with a bit of nuttiness from the sesame oil, so the crunch of the fried yams was crucial for contrast, while an onion-boosted crème fraîche helped bind the dish together.
At this point, we opened up a bottle of white Burgundy that we'd BYOB'd: the 2005 Paul Pernot Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Initial whiffs brought bountiful amounts of yellow fruit backed by touches of grassiness and minerality, while on the palate, the Chardonnay went in a generally round, citrusy, spicy direction. With time, the nose turned richer, butterier, and taste-wise, the oak also became more prominent, as did this palpable, long-lingering ribbon of brine that I quite fancied. Overall, I'd say that the wine has held up quite well over the past 20 years.
Beef Tartare Couture [$38.00] | Shaved Beef Tartare, Egg Yolk Jam, Bone Marrow Vinaigrette
The steak tartare was a winner, showing off some deep, gratifying flavors that were lightened up by the incorporation of shallots and Dijon mustard, with a marrow-augmented vinaigrette functioning to integrate the various components. I was also a fan of the texture of the meat, and liked the additional crunch imparted by those beetroot powder-dusted brioche crisps, too.
Salad Drapé [$29.00] | Lettuces, Pickled Radish, Maple Vinaigrette
This "draped" salad turned out quite a bit better than I thought it would. The brightness and bitterness of the various veggies (frisée, radicchio, daikon) was much appreciated, and combined effortlessly with the tangy-sweet nature of a maple-enriched vinaigrette. However, the key here for me was the incorporation of Marcona almonds (both puréed and chopped), which lent a nuttiness to the dish that really made it all cohesive.
Sunny Saint Jacques [$39.00] | Seared Scallops, Blood Orange, Caper Beurre Blanc
Seared scallops were well-textured and nicely-caramelized, with their buttery-sweetness on display. I enjoyed the juxtaposition with the brioche croutons, though some of the components here (kohlrabi purée, rutabaga discs, blood orange gel) didn't coalesce as well as I'd hoped.
Agnolotti Cousu Main [$39.00] | Black Truffle Agnolotti, Mushroom Consommé
A bowl of hand-rolled agnolotti in brodo was a table favorite. Stuffed primarily with mascarpone, Parmesan, and black truffle, the pasta was delicious on its own, but really shined when taken with the mushroom consommé, a heady, herby, yet delicate concoction that I reveled in. Meanwhile, mixing things up texturally was the crunch of that charcoal-tinted dehydrated mushroom tuile on top.
Goddess Garden [$34.00] | Baby Spinach and Lettuces, Granny Smith Apples, Green Goddess Dressing
The requisite vegan dish worked out well enough, with the bright, bitter veggies playing well with both the refreshing sweetness of the apples and the bready crunch of sourdough croutons, all while a feta-like coconut-based cheese added further oomph. Simultaneously, the green goddess imparted a creamy zing to the salad that served to unite all the ingredients.
It was now time for some red Burgundy in the form of the 2005 Domaine Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos Saint-Jacques that we'd also brought along. The wine smelled of juicy red fruit commixed with florals and a trace of nuttiness. In the mouth, I found omnipresent, yet restrained tannins, while flavors of strawberry abounded, joined by further nuances of black pepper and mineral, as well as an agreeable acidity. This was showing quite well tonight, but I suspect that the Pinot noir will have plenty more to give in the coming years.
Salmon Rouge [$58.00] | Confit Salmon, Fermented Red Pepper & Clams, Grilled Spinach
New Zealand coho salmon was confit'd in olive oil and seared, making for a rich, rare, almost luscious eating experience. The fish was complemented by an orzo-clam salad with tomato XO, as well as a fennel-onion purée, both of which mixed things up in terms of taste and texture, but even more crucial was the zippiness of those drapes of blistered red pepper. On the side was a bowl of sambal-sautéed Bloomsdale spinach, which offered a smoky-bitterness that really completed the dish for me.
Abalone Granville [$58.00] | Abalone, Anchovy au Poivre, Grilled Lettuces
Local abalone was perfectly grilled, giving it a mouthwatering mix of smoke, savor, and salinity. Elevating the gastropod's impact even further was a deeply-flavored kimo-enhanced peppercorn sauce, while lightening the mood were bitter veggies dressed with tangy lemon and olive oil. Everything just came together beautifully here--my favorite dish of the night.
Guinea Hen Rodeo [$62.00] | Guinea Hen, Maitake Mushroom, Pickled Turnips, Potato Millefeuille
We were quite a fan of the guinea hen as well. A farce of leg meat was inserted between breast and skin, making for a tender, juicy, multifaceted presentation of the bird. Amping things up were those earthy hen-of-the-woods and a demi-glace au poulet, though even more effective was the back-and-forth with the musk of those white truffles (a $90 surcharge that ended up being complimentary, I'm assuming because we ordered so much). Given the strong flavors present, the picked turnips and confit'd pearl onion petals were critical for balance, and the pomme purée on the side also helped keep things in line.
Beef Perlé [$82.00] | Slow-Cooked Beef Shortrib, Cauliflower Purée, Black Truffle
Short rib was sous-vide'd for 72 hours, then grilled and served with a demi-glace au bœuf. The result was a bevy of dark, sticky, robustly bovine flavors made all the better by those shaved truffles, moderated just a smidge by puréed cauliflower. The beef was accompanied by herby sautéed mixed mushrooms, set over a sunchoke purée and topped with a disk of black truffle-mushroom gelée.
To cap off the savory portion of our dinner, we were presented with servings of a delectably cozy mushroom-abalone(?) broth. Humorously, one of my dining companions commented that the bouillon possessed a "corn-y" finish that reminded him of Bugles snacks.
At this point, we retired into the restaurant's lounge/bar area to enjoy our dessert courses, and also requested a trio of digestifs to go along:
- Chartreuse Liqueur d'Elixir 1605 – A special version of green Chartreuse inspired by the distillery's Élixir Végétal, this was pleasingly thick on the tongue, its considerable alcoholic heat joined by an intense, multi-pronged, spicy-herbaceousness, with everything undergirded by a nearly candied sweetness. A fitting digestif.
- Chartreuse Cuvée des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France – This yellow Chartreuse variant was reportedly crafted in collaboration with winners of the MOF in the sommelier category. Compared to the Liqueur d'Elixir, I'd say that this was markedly sweeter, with a more straightforward herbal character, less spiciness, and a bit more volatility on the nose. Do note that the two pours of Chartreuse ended up being on the house, I assume, again, because we ordered the entire menu.
- Moussé et Fils Le Ratafia Sur le Toit [$50] – Hailing from the Champagne region and made from 100% Pinot Meunier, this was created by blending fresh grape juice with distilled pomace, with the liquid then aged in glass demijohns for two years on the winery's rooftop, exposed to the weather. The result is a fortified wine that veered in an almost sherry-like direction thanks to its plethora of sweet, nutty, oxidative nuances--a lovely match with dessert.
Coconut Rosé [$22.00] | Coconut Cream Tart, Raspberries, Pistachio
This rather pretty dish comprised a vanilla sponge cake with coconut pastry cream, raspberry-rose coulis, circles of rose-imprinted chocolate, Sicilian pistachios, mint, and pâte sucrée. The dessert was certainly visually engaging, while taste-wise, I found things floral and fruity, with a nice balance from the coconut and vanilla.
Feuilles Caramel [$21.00] | Hojicha Tea Bavarois, Salted Caramel, Almond
This was my favorite of the desserts, and combined a hojicha bavarois with layers of tonka bean ganache and salted caramel, all over a nutty, crunchy almond base. I really appreciated the subtlety of it all, especially the restraint of the salted caramel and how that intermixed with the subdued roastiness of the tea.
Fuchsia Sablé [$24.00] | Coffee Crémeux, Dark Chocolate Sablé, Mascarpone
This interactive dessert featured a base of dark chocolate sablé, piped with chocolate-espresso mousse, and capped with a chocolate disc. We were instructed to break said disc open with the back of a fork (crème brûlée-style) in order to find the surprises within: chocolate buttons and blocks of chocolate choux cake. Taken altogether, I quite liked the multiple forms of chocolate present, as well as the various textures going on, while that element of coffee mixed things up just enough.
Citrus Passion [$21.00] | Citrus Panna Cotta, Passion Fruit, Apricot
An orange-infused vanilla panna cotta did a great job showing off both its citrus and lactic components. I also liked the added sweetness from that jammy braised apricot, while the Breton cookie on the bottom helped keep things interesting texturally.
Chocolate Cannage [$26.00] | Chocolate Sponge and Mousse, Cherry Confiture
Our final dessert obviously took its visual cues from the iconic Lady Dior handbag, and was composed of devil's food cake with cherry jam and chocolate mousse, all encased in a dark chocolate shell embossed with the bag's signature cannage motif, with a gold-dusted chocolate bee emblem thrown in for good measure. The flavors here recalled that of a Forêt-Noire gâteau (Black Forest cake), a classic marriage of chocolate and dark fruit that was as tasty and effectual as ever.
Citrus Madeleine [$10.00 + $5.00]
Rounding things out was a series of petits fours. First came spherical madeleines filled with orange marmalade, then brushed with orange blossom syrup and dusted in demerara sugar. These were rather brazenly citrusy (one of my dining companions was actually reminded of Brach's orange slices), but fortunately, the cake portion helped tone things down.
Chocolate Mochi [$10.00 + $5.00]
Next came hemispheres of chocolate pastry cream enclosed in mochiko chocolate dough, then pinned with Dior's star motif rendered in chocolate and gold dust. As expected, this was all about rich flavors of cacao, but presented in a fun, chewy package.
Avocado Lime & Shiso "Taco" [$10.00 + $5.00]
Our final mignardise highlighted an avocado crémeux along with shiso, mint, and lime zest, all set in a "flower" tuile. Think herby, sweet, and sour--a refreshing conclusion to our dinner.
The conceit at Monsieur Dior is that its Cal-French cuisine is supposed to draw inspiration from the fashion house's long association with haute couture. I did see that linkage visually, and it worked, but mercifully, the flavors largely delivered as well. In essence, you do get some insight into Chef Crenn's distinctive culinary point of view, her artistry, her "poeticness" if you will, but portrayed in a more approachable, more prêt-à-porter fashion that's indeed fitting given the restaurant's location. I'm very curious to see how the cooking evolves here given the constraints at play.
posted by kevinEats at
5:00 PM
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