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Bavel (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

Bavel Restaurant
500 Mateo St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213-232-4966
www.baveldtla.com
Sun 07/05/2026, 07:45p-10:35p





If we're talking about Mideast cuisine in LA, the City's standard-bearer has got to be Bavel, which was opened in April 2018 by the husband-and-wife duo of Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis (along with Director of Operations Leah Bunch). Even though I've been back here a number of times, I last wrote about the Downtown Arts District eatery over eight years ago--shortly after its debut--so I figured it was about time to file another dining report.


Inside, not much has changed, though there's certainly more vegetation than I recall.


This time around, I was seated on the patio, which is a pretty nice place to be, and was much cooler compared to inside.


Shown above is Bavel's menu of pan-Middle Eastern cuisine, in addition to the restaurant's cocktail list and spirits offerings. Click for larger versions.


Fittingly, Bavel's wine list focuses on the Mediterranean region. It's a respectable selection, and apparently there are quite a few off-list bottles available as well. The corkage fee, meanwhile, is $50 a pop. Click for larger versions.


Dry Aged Trout Crudo [$32.00] | coconut citrus broth, charred chili & onion, kumquat, turmeric ginger oil, kaffir lime
In tonight's first course, umami-laden dices of trout were paired with a bevy of creamy, citrusy, and pungently herby flavors, with the dish even veering Thai-like thanks to the incorporation of coconut, turmeric, and makrut lime.


Yara [$18.00] | highball – central coast vermouth, strawberry infused white port, soda water, cilantro blossom, lemon oil
Beverage-wise, we'll get things started with a couple of cocktails, and this first one definitely went in a quaffable, easy-drinking direction with all its fresh, fruity, zingy qualities. Interestingly, the combo of strawberry and port actually resulted in some ume-like sensations that I did not mind at all.



Hummus Masabacha [$17.00] | creamy & chunky bean purée, tomato, lemon, garlic, green zhoug, pita
A musabaha-style hommus was pretty fantastic, delivering its signature nuttiness alongside the delectable sting of zhug and the refreshing bite of parsley, all while the dish also boasted this undercurrent of sweetness. I was a fan of the smooth-yet-chunky consistency of the dip as well, while that delightfully fluffy pita served as the ideal vessel for consumption.


Donia [$19.00] | stirred sour – gin, clarified tomato, strawberry, dill, dry vermouth, lime acid, smoked tomato salt, olive oil
This next cocktail was certainly on the more contemplative side thanks to its multifaceted presentation of fruity, vegetal, tangy, and bittersweet flavors, all finished by that smoky-salty rim. Neat.



Smoked Trout Rillette [$28.00] | basturma spice, rose herb salad, challah bread
A rillettes of trout showed off bountiful amounts of smoke and saline, but with contrasting elements of sweetness and spice. The accompanying herbs functioned as a consummate counterpoint to those heavy flavors, and that toasty bread worked as a perfect stage for it all.


For this evening's twentieth anniversary selection, I opted for something from the northern Rhône, the 2006 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline. Arguably the most iconic wine from the appellation, it comes to us from a storied Ampuis-based producer that was founded in 1946 by Étienne Guigal. The winery helped elevate the status of Côte-Rôtie wines in the 1980s (under the watch of Marcel Guigal), and is particularly known for its single-vineyard "La La" offerings. The first of said offerings, La Mouline saw its inaugural vintage in 1966, and is crafted from grapes harvested from a special parcel inside the Côte Blonde lieu-dit (a blend of 89% Syrah and 11% Viognier, usually).

• Initial Impressions: Huge nose of savory BBQ meats, commingled with flowers and bitter herbs. On the palate, I found silky tannins and flavors of smoky, roasty meat juxtaposed against more perfumed, herbaceous notes.
• After 15 Minutes: More barbeque, but now also cherries and olives in terms of aroma. In the mouth, a bit more tannic, with loads of that aforementioned cherry as well as herb-crusted meat.
• After 65 Minutes: At this point, the bouquet was far less meaty, but instead noticeably sweeter and more floral, but with an herby backing. Palate-wise, think smooth and supple, with flavors of cassis and violet coming to the fore.

This was a good showing for La Mouline. I actually have its sister wines--La Landonne and La Turque--as well, which I plan on drinking this year, so I'm looking forward to seeing how they compare.


Grilled Kohlrabi [$26.00] | honey mushroom tzatziki, brown butter, burnt harissa powder, dill, red vein sorrel
This next plate takes home the award for the most beguiling dish of the night. Due to the brown butter (I assume), it demonstrated a nutty sweet-spiciness that was almost dessert-y at first blush, but the herbs and harissa cleverly brought things back to the savory side. Nice crunch on the actual kohlrabi, too.



Romano Bean Tempura [$26.00] | cashew cardamom cream, tomato date chutney, black garlic aioli, smoked habanero
Being the bean fiend that I am, this was a must-try for me, and didn't disappoint. That tempura-style batter was as light and crisp as I was hoping for, and the beans meshed swimmingly with the sweet-spicing and heat from their various accoutrements. Really smart.


Grilled Octopus [$36.00] | skordalia potatoes, broccoli, lamb xo, dill, lemon, olive oil
Naturally, I had to order the octo as well, and it ended being one of the most tender preparations I've ever had. In addition to that tenderness, the dish also showcased a deep, ultra-meaty XO sauce that really amped things up. At the same time, broccoli and dill served as counterbalances, and the potatoes really tempered the flavors at play.


Fried Quail [$28.00] | chili xo, tomato & cucumber raita, rose petal, cilantro, ginger, savory
Deep-fried quail had the crunchy crust and juicy insides I was looking for, and the bird's gently sweet-n-spicy nature combined easily with the savory heat of the accompanying XO. Also appreciated was the yogurt--which definitely lightened the mood--as well as the various aromatics going on.


By this point, the Guigal had been drunk up, so we moved on to a couple off-menu Coravin pours:

• 2017 Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante [$47.50]: Nose of restrained florals and red berries, while flavors veered into blue-black fruit commingled with licorice-y spices and astringent herbs.
• 2021 Quinta da Carolina Douro Xisto Amarelo [$21.00]: The bouquet here displayed jammy strawberries commixed with herb, pepper, and tar. Youthful palate brimming with fresh, sweet fruit and touches of peppery spice.

Grilled Lamb Manti [$48.00] | tomato cream, mint crème fraîche, cinnamon, borage flowers, fresh thyme
Lamb arrived delectably seasoned, with a gratifying mouthfeel that was simultaneously soft, substantial, and even a tad bouncy. The manti worked hand-in-hand with the dish's creamier, tomato-y components, and I liked all the herbs and crunchy bits on top, too.


Pictured above are Bavel's dessert menu and after-dinner drink selections. Click for larger versions.


Pavlova [$17.00] | chamomile cream, mixed berries
A spot-on pavlova featured a crisp-yet-airy, slightly-chewy meringue base, crowned with a classic pairing of berries 'n' cream.


Dessert wine duties were handled by a Coravin pour of the 2011 Chenin Blanc, Leo Steen (SØD angelica) California, USA [$30], which had been barrel-aged for 12 years. Massive nose of honey-drenched stone fruit, caramel, and sweet spices. In terms of taste, I got nuts laced with brown sugar, with an oxidative backbone. An impressive effort.


Baked Alaska [$18.00] | raspberry & lime sherbets, chiffon cake, toasted meringue
A Cousin Itt-styled baked Alaska married sweet raspberry and the sharp bite of lime, both moderated by a layer of chiffon and encased in smoky meringue.

Hats off to the team for another great dining experience. By my estimation, Bavel does set the standard for Middle Eastern cuisine in the Southland, with the kitchen doing a commendable job weaving traditional flavors and techniques with more modern, novel, globally-inspired elements. Even after all these years, Bavel remains one of the most popular spots in the Arts District, and for good reason. I'm sure I'll be back.