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Tuesday, September 01, 2026
Friday, August 07, 2026
Lucien (La Jolla, CA)
Lucien Restaurant
7863 Girard Ave, La Jolla, CA 92037
619-786-3082
www.luciensd.com
Fri 08/07/2026, 08:00p-12:00a
Though I don't dine in the San Diego area all that often, I do somewhat keep tabs on the dining scene down there, and one spot that I've been reading promising things about over the past year has been Lucien. Named after Chef/Owner Elijah Arizmendi's son (born in July 2023), the restaurant is meant to represent his unique vision for California cuisine (an admittedly nebulous term to be sure). Lucien had been on my "to-eat" list for a while now, so I figured it was about time to pay the place a visit.
About the Chef: Elijah Flores Arizmendi was born in April 1995, and spent his early years raised by a single mother in the Sacramento area. He started his hospitality career around the age of 13, washing dishes at Tuli Bistro, and quickly fell in love with the industry. However, he ended up relocating to the Washington DC metropolitan area not long after, where he attended Mount Vernon High School in Alexandria, VA. His stint in the DMV was relatively short though, and Arizmendi was back in NorCal in time to graduate from Sactown's John F. Kennedy High School in 2013.
From there, he started working on the line at Wayfare Tavern in San Francisco, and also spent time at Cotogna before making his way to the Spago outpost in Las Vegas. He became sous chef there, but at the start 2015, moved down the Strip to Joël Robuchon. In December 2016, Arizmendi relocated to New York for a tournant position at Daniel, then transitioned to a sous role at Günter Seeger in April 2018. He became sous at French-Japanese spot Shun in the first half of 2019, and in April 2021, landed a chef de partie position at Per Se.
It was here where he would meet future business partner Brian Hung (b. August 1992), a fellow cook that he would bring along to L'Abeille when he was installed as opening CdC there in 2022 (he helped earn a Michelin star not long after). After Hung and his wife Melissa Lang (b. March 1992) moved to Rancho Santa Fe in 2023, the couple happened upon a vacant restaurant space, and subsequently convinced Arizmendi to go into business together.
The Chef thus left L'Abeille, traveled to France to stage, and settled in his new home in San Diego, where he got to work building relationships with local purveyors. Lucien thus ended up grand-opening on July 18th, 2025, and was widely praised pretty much right from the get-go, even achieving a Michelin star this past June.
Joining Arizmendi in Lucien's kitchen is Pastry Chef Isabella Alicea, an alumna of Per Se and Le Bernardin. As for the front-of-the-house, GM duties are being handled by James Spencer, whom we last saw at Valle in Oceanside. Meanwhile, Wine & Beverage Manager James Meringer previously served as head sommelier for Kuma Hospitality Group, the parent company behind L'Abeille.
1: Ogen Melon, Cucumber, Yuzu
We made our way up to the third floor of the La Plaza La Jolla complex, and our experience began in Lucien's courtyard. Up first were two palate awakeners: a zesty juice of Japanese cucumber and Ogen melon, then the same two main components, but this time compressed with a bit of yuzu and thyme.
We were also presented with Lucien's wines by the glass list and cocktail list. Click for larger versions.
After a brief period, we were led past a sturdy bronze door to the restaurant proper. Lucien takes over the former home of Sushi on the Rock (or Le Petit Bistro before that), and fortunately, the space has been completely transformed by the teams at Encinitas Design Group and Tecture. Plush mahogany booths and gunmetal walls make for a much moodier aesthetic inside, and diners are also offered a peek into Lucien's kitchen, replete with its Molteni stove and an almond wood- and binchotan-fired hearth. Note that the photo above was taken at the end of the night, with everyone cleared out.
Here we see tonight's tasting menu (replete with a nifty cover listing Lucien's various suppliers), which was priced at a prepaid $300pp, plus 20% gratuity and 7.75% tax. To drink, there's a beverage pairing at $195 a head, along with a relatively brief wine list that features some odd decisions, like only listing a single Right Bank Bordeaux in the form of a $6,600 bottle of Petrus. Meanwhile, corkage is $100 a bottle. Click for larger versions.
A chilled oshibori was a welcomed touch, and quite refreshing given the hot weather we'd been having.
Tonight's selection from my twentieth anniversary inventory was the 2006 Joseph Drouhin Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet Grand Cru. The wine comes to us from what most would consider the finest white wine appellation in the world, and the grapes from this particular bottle were sourced from the largest parcel in the vineyard, one reportedly owned by the de La Guiche family (an aristocratic clan from medieval times) since 1776 and leased to négociant Joseph Drouhin since 1947.
2: Mara des Bois Strawberry, Ricotta, Mexican Tarragon
In the dining room, things kicked off with a trio of canapés. For this first bite, a sweet-n-juicy Chino Farm strawberry was combined with the creaminess of housemade ricotta, with further accents in the form of Meyer lemon, black pepper, mint, and Mexican tarragon. Nice crunch from the tartlet's pastry base, too.
3: Bluefin Tuna Akami, Shiitake, Nori
Lean bluefin demonstrated its trademark umami in spades, augmented by the additional long-lingering savor of shiso-wrapped shiitake and nori crackers, with house-made ponzu imparting a welcomed tanginess to the mix. There was a touch of sugariness from that bead of fig confiture to boot.
4: Ibérico Pork, Strawberry Verte Fig, Fig Leaf
Last up was my favorite of the amuse-bouches. A croustade of Escondido-sourced ibérico pork rillettes was what I was looking for in terms of texture and taste, and was consummately complemented by a dollop of anchovy cream. Fig added further interest to the bite, as did the zing of red-veined sorrel.
5: San Diego Uni, White Peach, Hass Avocado
In our first "proper" course, San Diego sea urchin appeared in both raw and ice cream forms, and was joined by Heritage Family Farms white nectarines cured with wasabi and hon-umeshu, a ribbon of Chino Farm cucumber, raspberry, and a tableside finish of passion fruit sauce. This was a favorite of mine, and I think the key was how the potent, creamy, briny nature of the uni played with the dish's tart, fresh, fruity flavors. A novel way of looking at sea urchin.
6: Fairytale Eggplant, San Diego Bluefin Tuna Chutoro, Basil
Lush, fatty cuts of tuna belly paired like clockwork with the sweet-brightness of Sage Hill Ranch Gardens basil, which came in emulsion, leaf, and blossom form. Also important was the moderating effect provided by Sage Hill's Fairytale eggplant, cooked confit to melt-in-my-mouth consistency and further draped with ibérico lardo. Another highlight.
Bitter 03 [$22.00] | Cacao infused Orange Amaro, Tequila, Hopped Sake
In addition to the wine, I was also able to sample three cocktails, starting with this concoction, which was as bitter as its name would imply. Due to the incorporation of hops, the drink had an almost beer-like character that I rather enjoyed, as well as this sweet, funky undercurrent that was also quite familiar.
A box containing the prototypically lux ingredients of caviar and truffles then arrived, adding some tableside theatrics to our dinner.
7: Sweet Corn, N25 Oscietra Caviar, Australian Winter Truffle
A super silky, extra liquid-y, almost milky chawanmushi showcased the signature sweetness of a corn purée, finished with the salinity of that ossetra caviar. The egg custard worked as a stark counterpoint to an earthy, dark-toned bite of toasty bread topped with black truffle, truffle butter, and sweet corn Chantilly.
Smoke 02 [$22.00] | Japanese Whiskey, House Fig Amaro, Angostura Bitters
Much like the preceding cocktail, this next libation also lived up to its moniker, with its loads of aromatic smoke offset just enough by a fruity, bittersweet backbone.
8: Amber Eden Ancient Grain, Cultured Butter, Monterey Bay Sea Lettuce
Tonight's bread was an ancient grain sourdough emblazoned with Lucien's emblem. I found it delightfully crusty, with a tender, sweet-tangy crumb. The loaf paired perfectly with an oceany, umami-packed aonori- and sea lettuce-boosted butter.
Umami 02 [$22.00] | Bourbon, Cognac, Black Truffle
Our third and final cocktail brought flavors of pome fruit and baking spices, set against the musk of black truffles, with the one-two punch of bourbon and brandy providing the necessary heft.
9: Tomato, Summer Herbs, Ibérico Paleta
Cherry tomatoes arrived studded with shards of house-cured ibérico paleta (cured two-to-three months with salt and what I believe was thyme). Poured tableside was a broth made with tomato essence and cultured butter, which tended to melt the pork. The overall effect went in a tart, herbaceous, distinctly porcine direction, with some minty accents serving to uplift.
10: Santa Barbara Black Cod, Finger Lime, N25 Kaluga Hybrid Caviar
Black cod was lightly cured with sake, white miso, and honey, making for a fatty, flaky, delicately-flavored filet with a long-lasting savoriness. Accompanying the cod was a tableside pour of tangy fish fumé fortified with kaluga caviar, while pops of finger lime and a dash of greenery brightened things up.
Our second bottle was the 2006 Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore, which was actually brought by a dining companion. One of the "big five" Super Tuscans, the wine is the creation of Marchese Lodovico Antinori, and celebrated its first vintage in 1985. The '06 we have here is a Bordeaux-style blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot, and was aged 18 months in barriques and 12 months in bottle before release.
A lone Catalina Island spot prawn was presented, somewhat perplexingly, in a teapot filled with purified salt water, surrounded by chili peppers.
11: Catalina Island Spot Prawn, Calamansi Kosho, Jimmy Nardello Pepper
The actual prawns we were served were poached and seared on the plancha with butter, then set atop a fumé made from prawn shells/heads and Madras curry. Also on the plate were grilled Jimmy Nardellos and shishitos, as well as calamansi (from the tree in the courtyard) and a lightly fermented "kosho" made with calamansi peel cured in salt and sugar. I was certainly a fan of the suppleness of the shrimp, and how its sweet-salinity meshed with the heat of those curry spices, while the citrus and peppers actually helped tone things down.
For our next course, we were shown a pot containing Wolf Ranch quail surrounded by shallots and potatoes.
12: Wolf Ranch Quail, La Ratte Potato, Walla Walla Onion
That aforementioned quail was ember-roasted with koji and crowned with seven-month ibérico guanciale, making for a delectably juicy, tender, assertively sweet-n-smoky breast. Meanwhile, the leg was prepared confit and showed off some darker, more contemplative flavors. We also had a rich Robuchon-inspired La Ratte potato mash, shallot purée, and a tableside dousing of quail jus. At the same time, lightening the mood were crispy shallots, zingy Walla Walla onions, and a refreshing wild frisée salad with fines herbes.
Due to the hands-on nature of the dish above, a wetted hand towel was now provided.
13: Charentais Melon, Lime, Lemon Verbena
At this point, we were taken to the pass to enjoy this reimagined Charentais melon. This was a French melon, its flesh hollowed out and frozen with a bit of lemon verbena before being placed back in the fruit, with some additional lime gelée for acidity and brightness, basil blossoms, and a finish of lemon verbena oil. The end result was an utterly refreshing, herby, floral, juicy, icy, palate-cleaning course that effectively set the stage for dessert proper.
14: Japanese Eggplant, Chamoe Melon, Black Cardamom
Following a brief tour of the kitchen, we were led back to the dining room. What came next was another standout, a collaborative effort between Pastry Chef Alicea and Chef Arizmendi that stemmed from the simple idea of creating a dessert that highlights a vegetable. This was an ice cream made from lightly smoked Japanese purple eggplant, served with tapioca anglaise, black cardamom foam, and a touch of sea salt. What really struck me was how flawlessly the savoriness of the aubergine integrated with the dish's sweeter elements, punctuated by pinpricks of salt and pops of finger lime. I loved the textural contribution from the tapioca pearls, too. Interestingly, this was just brought back on the menu recently, and for good reason I say, as it's something that could be a signature dessert for the restaurant. A contender for the best eggplant dish I've had.
15: Strawberry Verte Fig, Aglandau Olive Oil, Fig Leaf
Next came a warm feuilletage tart featuring a marvelously buttery, flaky laminated dough surrounding a pistachio cream. Strawberry Verte figs from Sage Hill Ranch Gardens were served charred and fresh, while fig leaf and olive oil were turned into a luxurious ice cream.
16: Cherry Noir
A couple of my dining companions were celebrating an anniversary this evening, hence this gift from the pastry kitchen. A richly-flavored riff on chocolate-covered cherries, they comprised boozy Luxardo cherries enveloped in whipped custard and chocolate, then dusted with gold.
Yet another moistened towel then arrived.
17: Anise Hyssop, Mikolich Wildflower Honey, Madeleine
Digestif duties were handled by an invigorating, licorice-y anise hyssop herbal tea with chamomile and basil blossom flowers. Accompanying the tisane were some spot-on madeleines, brushed fresh out of the oven with local wildflower honey.
18: Wild Pink Peppercorn, Tonka Bean, California Elderflower
Our meal concluded with a petit four three-way. I began with a fruity, chewy crème de cassis-elderflower mochi. Next was a cinnamon-y, ginger-y, brown butter-y, tuile-topped croquillant-style puffed cream pastry filled with tonka bean. Last up was an "ice cream sandwich" composed of a zippy pink peppercorn semifreddo in between buckwheat sablé cookies.
Our takeaway gift was a pretty faultless canelé, which I ate right after I got back home.
The team at Lucien delivered a strong meal tonight. What we were served represents a bit of a new interpretation of Californian cuisine, not because of the Chef's incorporation of French-Japanese influences and live-fire cooking, which are effective but hardly novel, but because of how the food highlights San Diegan ingredients and microclimates, thus instilling it with a sense of place. The Michelin macaron that the restaurant recently received is well-warranted, and throughout the meal, I had this sense that the team is already striving for that second star. It wouldn't surprise me if they eventually get there.
7863 Girard Ave, La Jolla, CA 92037
619-786-3082
www.luciensd.com
Fri 08/07/2026, 08:00p-12:00a
Though I don't dine in the San Diego area all that often, I do somewhat keep tabs on the dining scene down there, and one spot that I've been reading promising things about over the past year has been Lucien. Named after Chef/Owner Elijah Arizmendi's son (born in July 2023), the restaurant is meant to represent his unique vision for California cuisine (an admittedly nebulous term to be sure). Lucien had been on my "to-eat" list for a while now, so I figured it was about time to pay the place a visit.
About the Chef: Elijah Flores Arizmendi was born in April 1995, and spent his early years raised by a single mother in the Sacramento area. He started his hospitality career around the age of 13, washing dishes at Tuli Bistro, and quickly fell in love with the industry. However, he ended up relocating to the Washington DC metropolitan area not long after, where he attended Mount Vernon High School in Alexandria, VA. His stint in the DMV was relatively short though, and Arizmendi was back in NorCal in time to graduate from Sactown's John F. Kennedy High School in 2013.
From there, he started working on the line at Wayfare Tavern in San Francisco, and also spent time at Cotogna before making his way to the Spago outpost in Las Vegas. He became sous chef there, but at the start 2015, moved down the Strip to Joël Robuchon. In December 2016, Arizmendi relocated to New York for a tournant position at Daniel, then transitioned to a sous role at Günter Seeger in April 2018. He became sous at French-Japanese spot Shun in the first half of 2019, and in April 2021, landed a chef de partie position at Per Se.
It was here where he would meet future business partner Brian Hung (b. August 1992), a fellow cook that he would bring along to L'Abeille when he was installed as opening CdC there in 2022 (he helped earn a Michelin star not long after). After Hung and his wife Melissa Lang (b. March 1992) moved to Rancho Santa Fe in 2023, the couple happened upon a vacant restaurant space, and subsequently convinced Arizmendi to go into business together.
The Chef thus left L'Abeille, traveled to France to stage, and settled in his new home in San Diego, where he got to work building relationships with local purveyors. Lucien thus ended up grand-opening on July 18th, 2025, and was widely praised pretty much right from the get-go, even achieving a Michelin star this past June.
Joining Arizmendi in Lucien's kitchen is Pastry Chef Isabella Alicea, an alumna of Per Se and Le Bernardin. As for the front-of-the-house, GM duties are being handled by James Spencer, whom we last saw at Valle in Oceanside. Meanwhile, Wine & Beverage Manager James Meringer previously served as head sommelier for Kuma Hospitality Group, the parent company behind L'Abeille.
1: Ogen Melon, Cucumber, Yuzu
We made our way up to the third floor of the La Plaza La Jolla complex, and our experience began in Lucien's courtyard. Up first were two palate awakeners: a zesty juice of Japanese cucumber and Ogen melon, then the same two main components, but this time compressed with a bit of yuzu and thyme.
We were also presented with Lucien's wines by the glass list and cocktail list. Click for larger versions.
After a brief period, we were led past a sturdy bronze door to the restaurant proper. Lucien takes over the former home of Sushi on the Rock (or Le Petit Bistro before that), and fortunately, the space has been completely transformed by the teams at Encinitas Design Group and Tecture. Plush mahogany booths and gunmetal walls make for a much moodier aesthetic inside, and diners are also offered a peek into Lucien's kitchen, replete with its Molteni stove and an almond wood- and binchotan-fired hearth. Note that the photo above was taken at the end of the night, with everyone cleared out.
Here we see tonight's tasting menu (replete with a nifty cover listing Lucien's various suppliers), which was priced at a prepaid $300pp, plus 20% gratuity and 7.75% tax. To drink, there's a beverage pairing at $195 a head, along with a relatively brief wine list that features some odd decisions, like only listing a single Right Bank Bordeaux in the form of a $6,600 bottle of Petrus. Meanwhile, corkage is $100 a bottle. Click for larger versions.
A chilled oshibori was a welcomed touch, and quite refreshing given the hot weather we'd been having.
Tonight's selection from my twentieth anniversary inventory was the 2006 Joseph Drouhin Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet Grand Cru. The wine comes to us from what most would consider the finest white wine appellation in the world, and the grapes from this particular bottle were sourced from the largest parcel in the vineyard, one reportedly owned by the de La Guiche family (an aristocratic clan from medieval times) since 1776 and leased to négociant Joseph Drouhin since 1947.
- Initial Impressions: Rich, sweet butterscotch on the nose, offset by an underpinning of spice. On the palate: a healthy dosing of yellow fruit joined by notes of caramel and oak, along with a lovely acidity.
- After 10 Minutes: After just a brief period, the Chardonnay showed a nuttier, more savory aroma, but one still loaded with caramel corn. Taste-wise, I found an almost candied presentation of stone fruit, along with truffles on the back end.
- After 30 Minutes: More of the same on the bouquet, but in somewhat more concentrated form. In the mouth, I detected additional elements of sweet spices and pâtisserie.
- After 50 Minutes: Not much movement on the nose, but on the tongue, think hotter and more herbaceous.
- After 165 Minutes: Wow. This late in the evening, the Burgundy was teeming with honey, apricot, and pineapple, and really made me think of Sauternes. All in all, a strong showing for the Monty--one of my top wines of the year to be sure.
2: Mara des Bois Strawberry, Ricotta, Mexican Tarragon
In the dining room, things kicked off with a trio of canapés. For this first bite, a sweet-n-juicy Chino Farm strawberry was combined with the creaminess of housemade ricotta, with further accents in the form of Meyer lemon, black pepper, mint, and Mexican tarragon. Nice crunch from the tartlet's pastry base, too.
3: Bluefin Tuna Akami, Shiitake, Nori
Lean bluefin demonstrated its trademark umami in spades, augmented by the additional long-lingering savor of shiso-wrapped shiitake and nori crackers, with house-made ponzu imparting a welcomed tanginess to the mix. There was a touch of sugariness from that bead of fig confiture to boot.
4: Ibérico Pork, Strawberry Verte Fig, Fig Leaf
Last up was my favorite of the amuse-bouches. A croustade of Escondido-sourced ibérico pork rillettes was what I was looking for in terms of texture and taste, and was consummately complemented by a dollop of anchovy cream. Fig added further interest to the bite, as did the zing of red-veined sorrel.
5: San Diego Uni, White Peach, Hass Avocado
In our first "proper" course, San Diego sea urchin appeared in both raw and ice cream forms, and was joined by Heritage Family Farms white nectarines cured with wasabi and hon-umeshu, a ribbon of Chino Farm cucumber, raspberry, and a tableside finish of passion fruit sauce. This was a favorite of mine, and I think the key was how the potent, creamy, briny nature of the uni played with the dish's tart, fresh, fruity flavors. A novel way of looking at sea urchin.
6: Fairytale Eggplant, San Diego Bluefin Tuna Chutoro, Basil
Lush, fatty cuts of tuna belly paired like clockwork with the sweet-brightness of Sage Hill Ranch Gardens basil, which came in emulsion, leaf, and blossom form. Also important was the moderating effect provided by Sage Hill's Fairytale eggplant, cooked confit to melt-in-my-mouth consistency and further draped with ibérico lardo. Another highlight.
Bitter 03 [$22.00] | Cacao infused Orange Amaro, Tequila, Hopped Sake
In addition to the wine, I was also able to sample three cocktails, starting with this concoction, which was as bitter as its name would imply. Due to the incorporation of hops, the drink had an almost beer-like character that I rather enjoyed, as well as this sweet, funky undercurrent that was also quite familiar.
A box containing the prototypically lux ingredients of caviar and truffles then arrived, adding some tableside theatrics to our dinner.
7: Sweet Corn, N25 Oscietra Caviar, Australian Winter Truffle
A super silky, extra liquid-y, almost milky chawanmushi showcased the signature sweetness of a corn purée, finished with the salinity of that ossetra caviar. The egg custard worked as a stark counterpoint to an earthy, dark-toned bite of toasty bread topped with black truffle, truffle butter, and sweet corn Chantilly.
Smoke 02 [$22.00] | Japanese Whiskey, House Fig Amaro, Angostura Bitters
Much like the preceding cocktail, this next libation also lived up to its moniker, with its loads of aromatic smoke offset just enough by a fruity, bittersweet backbone.
8: Amber Eden Ancient Grain, Cultured Butter, Monterey Bay Sea Lettuce
Tonight's bread was an ancient grain sourdough emblazoned with Lucien's emblem. I found it delightfully crusty, with a tender, sweet-tangy crumb. The loaf paired perfectly with an oceany, umami-packed aonori- and sea lettuce-boosted butter.
Umami 02 [$22.00] | Bourbon, Cognac, Black Truffle
Our third and final cocktail brought flavors of pome fruit and baking spices, set against the musk of black truffles, with the one-two punch of bourbon and brandy providing the necessary heft.
9: Tomato, Summer Herbs, Ibérico Paleta
Cherry tomatoes arrived studded with shards of house-cured ibérico paleta (cured two-to-three months with salt and what I believe was thyme). Poured tableside was a broth made with tomato essence and cultured butter, which tended to melt the pork. The overall effect went in a tart, herbaceous, distinctly porcine direction, with some minty accents serving to uplift.
10: Santa Barbara Black Cod, Finger Lime, N25 Kaluga Hybrid Caviar
Black cod was lightly cured with sake, white miso, and honey, making for a fatty, flaky, delicately-flavored filet with a long-lasting savoriness. Accompanying the cod was a tableside pour of tangy fish fumé fortified with kaluga caviar, while pops of finger lime and a dash of greenery brightened things up.
Our second bottle was the 2006 Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore, which was actually brought by a dining companion. One of the "big five" Super Tuscans, the wine is the creation of Marchese Lodovico Antinori, and celebrated its first vintage in 1985. The '06 we have here is a Bordeaux-style blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot, and was aged 18 months in barriques and 12 months in bottle before release.
- Initial Impressions: Smoke, flowers, and fruit on the nose. A bit tight and tannic on the palate, with pronounced flavors of candied grape and a smidgen of heat.
- After 10 Minutes: Aromas developed into perfumey violets and ripe purple fruit. In the mouth: rich and viscous, but still grippy, with smoky nuances commingled with agreeable notes of cough syrup.
- After 30 Minutes: An inviting bouquet of stewed plums that I quite fancied. Taking a sip, I found plenty of structure, plenty of acidity, but also revealed were juicy cherries, accented by lovely hints of mint.
A lone Catalina Island spot prawn was presented, somewhat perplexingly, in a teapot filled with purified salt water, surrounded by chili peppers.
11: Catalina Island Spot Prawn, Calamansi Kosho, Jimmy Nardello Pepper
The actual prawns we were served were poached and seared on the plancha with butter, then set atop a fumé made from prawn shells/heads and Madras curry. Also on the plate were grilled Jimmy Nardellos and shishitos, as well as calamansi (from the tree in the courtyard) and a lightly fermented "kosho" made with calamansi peel cured in salt and sugar. I was certainly a fan of the suppleness of the shrimp, and how its sweet-salinity meshed with the heat of those curry spices, while the citrus and peppers actually helped tone things down.
For our next course, we were shown a pot containing Wolf Ranch quail surrounded by shallots and potatoes.
12: Wolf Ranch Quail, La Ratte Potato, Walla Walla Onion
That aforementioned quail was ember-roasted with koji and crowned with seven-month ibérico guanciale, making for a delectably juicy, tender, assertively sweet-n-smoky breast. Meanwhile, the leg was prepared confit and showed off some darker, more contemplative flavors. We also had a rich Robuchon-inspired La Ratte potato mash, shallot purée, and a tableside dousing of quail jus. At the same time, lightening the mood were crispy shallots, zingy Walla Walla onions, and a refreshing wild frisée salad with fines herbes.
Due to the hands-on nature of the dish above, a wetted hand towel was now provided.
13: Charentais Melon, Lime, Lemon Verbena
At this point, we were taken to the pass to enjoy this reimagined Charentais melon. This was a French melon, its flesh hollowed out and frozen with a bit of lemon verbena before being placed back in the fruit, with some additional lime gelée for acidity and brightness, basil blossoms, and a finish of lemon verbena oil. The end result was an utterly refreshing, herby, floral, juicy, icy, palate-cleaning course that effectively set the stage for dessert proper.
14: Japanese Eggplant, Chamoe Melon, Black Cardamom
Following a brief tour of the kitchen, we were led back to the dining room. What came next was another standout, a collaborative effort between Pastry Chef Alicea and Chef Arizmendi that stemmed from the simple idea of creating a dessert that highlights a vegetable. This was an ice cream made from lightly smoked Japanese purple eggplant, served with tapioca anglaise, black cardamom foam, and a touch of sea salt. What really struck me was how flawlessly the savoriness of the aubergine integrated with the dish's sweeter elements, punctuated by pinpricks of salt and pops of finger lime. I loved the textural contribution from the tapioca pearls, too. Interestingly, this was just brought back on the menu recently, and for good reason I say, as it's something that could be a signature dessert for the restaurant. A contender for the best eggplant dish I've had.
15: Strawberry Verte Fig, Aglandau Olive Oil, Fig Leaf
Next came a warm feuilletage tart featuring a marvelously buttery, flaky laminated dough surrounding a pistachio cream. Strawberry Verte figs from Sage Hill Ranch Gardens were served charred and fresh, while fig leaf and olive oil were turned into a luxurious ice cream.
16: Cherry Noir
A couple of my dining companions were celebrating an anniversary this evening, hence this gift from the pastry kitchen. A richly-flavored riff on chocolate-covered cherries, they comprised boozy Luxardo cherries enveloped in whipped custard and chocolate, then dusted with gold.
Yet another moistened towel then arrived.
17: Anise Hyssop, Mikolich Wildflower Honey, Madeleine
Digestif duties were handled by an invigorating, licorice-y anise hyssop herbal tea with chamomile and basil blossom flowers. Accompanying the tisane were some spot-on madeleines, brushed fresh out of the oven with local wildflower honey.
18: Wild Pink Peppercorn, Tonka Bean, California Elderflower
Our meal concluded with a petit four three-way. I began with a fruity, chewy crème de cassis-elderflower mochi. Next was a cinnamon-y, ginger-y, brown butter-y, tuile-topped croquillant-style puffed cream pastry filled with tonka bean. Last up was an "ice cream sandwich" composed of a zippy pink peppercorn semifreddo in between buckwheat sablé cookies.
Our takeaway gift was a pretty faultless canelé, which I ate right after I got back home.
The team at Lucien delivered a strong meal tonight. What we were served represents a bit of a new interpretation of Californian cuisine, not because of the Chef's incorporation of French-Japanese influences and live-fire cooking, which are effective but hardly novel, but because of how the food highlights San Diegan ingredients and microclimates, thus instilling it with a sense of place. The Michelin macaron that the restaurant recently received is well-warranted, and throughout the meal, I had this sense that the team is already striving for that second star. It wouldn't surprise me if they eventually get there.
posted by kevinEats at
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