Tuesday, January 27, 2026

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Friday, January 23, 2026

20 Years of kevinEats

kevinEats on Myspace


I consider the birth of this blog to have occurred on August 17th, 2006, the date of my first meal at Alinea.

I grew up culinarily sheltered. My parents were not particularly adventurous in terms of cuisine, and thus my childhood diet was decidedly ho-hum, with our local fast food joints often appearing in the dinner rotation. It was only when I went off to college that my eyes were opened to the range of gastronomic possibilities out there. Spurred on by a new set of collegiate acquaintances, I began exploring all the gustatory options available to me in this new environment. After I graduated, I moved back to Southern California and started the process of eating my way through the region.

This was the context in which that Alinea meal took place. I was dipping my toes into the world of fine dining at this point, and during a business trip to Chicago, I decided to pay the restaurant a visit, as I'd heard that Chef Grant Achatz was putting out the most creative cooking in the country. It was certainly the most creative cooking I'd ever encountered, given that I'd never experienced anything remotely close to modernist cuisine (or molecular gastronomy, as they tended to call it back then). What I came across at Alinea helped change my perception of what food could be. Even though I didn't understand much of it--some of the dishes clearly went over my head--I knew that what I was eating was special, and thus felt compelled to document the affair.

I didn't even have my own digital camera, so I borrowed my coworker's and (poorly) photographed the full meal, which people just didn't do that often two decades ago. Those photos, along with accompanying narrative, were posted to my Myspace account, using the site's built-in blogging feature. The response I received from friends, and more interestingly, complete strangers, was largely positive, and motivated me to start chronicling other dining experiences.

Following Alinea, I reckon that Urasawa, French Laundry, and Joël Robuchon were the next posts that really helped grow my audience (people tended to prefer reading about the super high-end spots), and by the dawn of 2008, it was becoming clear that I should probably launch my own web site. One of the people that convinced me to strike out on my own was the author of the now-defunct chuckeats.com, and as a nod to his counsel, I chose the moniker kevinEats for my blog, which went live in March 2008. My first posts on the new platform detailed meals from the recent trip I'd taken to Japan, though I did keep posting on Myspace as well until the end of '08.

My site saw an upswing in infamy throughout the "golden years" of food blogging that spanned the late 2000s to the early 2010s, when there were dozens of LA-focused food blogs operating, pretty much all of which are now extinct, sadly. By the middle of the last decade, long-form blogging was clearly on the decline, replaced by the likes of Instagram and its ilk. I'm part of a dying breed. In fact, I'm actually a bit surprised that the blog has lasted this long, and often wonder how many years I have left in me. Nevertheless, kevinEats is still up and running at 20 years of age, and I figure that I should at least do something to commemorate the occasion:
  • The first thing that came to mind is to revisit the restaurant where it all began: Alinea. Ideally, I'd dine there as close as possible to the 20th anniversary of my first meal, which seems doable. Of course, if I'm going to be in Chicago, I'd like to check out some other top spots in the City as well, and the likes of Ever, Kasama, and Smyth certainly come to mind.
  • I'd also like to take the opportunity to drink primarily 2006 wines in 2026. My focus will be on the "great wines of the world," which, admittedly, is a nebulous term, but my selections will likely consist of bottlings from leading wine regions and iconic producers. I actually think 20 years is a bit of a sweet spot for this sort of undertaking, since most of the wines should be in their drinking windows, and shouldn't be too difficult/costly to acquire.
  • Lastly, I'd like to start the process of donating all the menus I've amassed over the years to the Los Angeles Public Library, which specifically maintains a collection of historic menus. I've accrued over 2400 pieces at this point, and would like them to be preserved for future generations. After all, food is a reflection of culture, and I think it'll be illuminating to maintain physical manifestations of what we ate during our particular period of human history.
That's it for now, but of course, I may think of other ways to celebrate my one score milestone as the year progresses. I'm looking forward to a fruitful 2026!

Friday, January 09, 2026

Sushidokoro Miyama (Arcadia, CA)

Sushi Dokoro Miyama
1108 S Baldwin Ave, Arcadia, CA 91007
www.instagram.com/sushidokoro_miyama/
Fri 01/09/2026, 08:05p-10:20p




Sushidokoro Miyama Exterior

If we're talking about San Gabriel Valley sushi-ya, Sushidokoro Miyama (鮨処みやま) is one that I've been wanting to try for a while, and thus I recently checked the place out as my first "proper" meal of 2026. The omakase-only, edomae-style spot opened at the very start of August 2024, and initially adhered to a referral-only system (完全紹介制, kanzen shōkai-sei) for reservations, though that only lasted about three months. The restaurant comes to us from Yamato Miura's Bun Geiz Corporation (Tonchinkan et al.), with backing from Steve Tieu, while running the kitchen is Hiro Yamada, who was previously heading things over at Sushi Kisen (please refer to that post for the shokunin's background). Chef Yamada was assisted this evening by Kazushige Motoishi, who's in the process of opening his own spot, while the front-of-the-house was the charge of Kazu-san, an alum of Uzumaki in Culver City and the Katsu-ya group.

Sushidokoro Miyama Vestibule
After entering, you'll find a small antechamber-like area that includes access to the bathroom.

Sushidokoro Miyama Interior
Miyama occupies the back section of a Baldwin Plaza strip mall storefront shared with another BunGeiz eatery, Sumibiyakitori Kidori. It's a rather small space, offering just eight seats at the sushi bar. Pictured above is the view from my place at the counter's furthest-right position.

Sushidokoro Miyama Sake List Title Page Sushidokoro Miyama Sake List Sushidokoro Miyama Sake List
Sushidokoro Miyama's menu is priced at $220 per person (up from the $180 charged when the spot first opened), plus 18% service charge. To drink, you'll find a small sake list (with some rather high-end selections), though apparently no beer or wine. Corkage is $50 a bottle, or $125 for larger formats. Click for larger versions.

Mozuku
1: Mozuku
I'm accustomed to having mozuku, but not served hot. The slick strands of seaweed ate in an almost noodle-like fashion, and were set in a wonderfully homey, smoky, savory dashi broth, with the green onion offering an uplifting zestiness. A great opening dish, especially given the cold weather we've been having, and very possibly the best preparation of the algae I've ever had.

Sawara
2: Sawara
Supple cuts of king mackerel showcased a delectable char, the fish's smoky savor nicely offset by the tanginess of ponzu- and scallion-infused grated daikon.

Seikogani
3: Seikogani
Given that we were nearing the end of the season, it was a treat to see female snow crab on the menu tonight. The zuwaigani's sweetness, salinity, and umami were on proud display, amped up even further by the crustacean's roe and a dashi "gravy" incorporating shell and innards. At the same time, the kick of wasabi and a homey base of rice were both key for balance.

Hokkigai
4: Hokkigai
Grilled surf clam was another standout, and a contender for the tastiest rendition of the ingredient I've tried. The bivalve had that soft, "spongey" texture I was looking for, while its smokiness meshed perfectly with all the oceany flavors going on. I didn't mind an extra bit of piquancy from that shichimi, either.

Ginger & Finger Napkin
A mound of sweeter-than-usual ginger and a finger napkin appeared at this point, signaling the start of the nigiri portion of dinner.

Sumi Ika
5: Sumi Ika
Ink squid had that firm-ish consistency I expected, while the cuttlefish's subdued salinity made sense with the nuttiness of the rice and that smidge of wasabi-fueled heat on the back end.

Hirame
6: Hirame
Prepared kobujime-style, Japanese flounder was soft and slightly "sticky" to the bite, its simultaneously focused, yet restrained presentation of umami well-matched by both shari and wasabi.

2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne Brut Rosé Luminous Edition
In terms of libations, I BYOB'd the 2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne Brut Rosé Luminous Edition, released in 2021 and composed of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, with an unusually low 10% of the volume made up of still red wine. Initial whiffs brought aromas of brioche, strawberry, and lemon, while the palate showed off plenty of verve and acidity, with lots more of those bready notes intermingled with strawberry Jolly Ranchers and lemons. By course #10, the wine had really opened up, demonstrating further depth with its rich toastiness joined now by berry preserves, sweet spices, and a trace of barnyard. This was drinking well tonight, but I suspect that the sparkler will have plenty more to give in the coming decades.

Sayori
7: Sayori
Japanese halfbeak was a joy texturally, and the needlefish's delicate flavors paired beautifully with the bite's overarching gingeriness as well as that warm-ish rice.

Kasugo Dai
8: Kasugo Dai
A tender slice of baby sea bream demonstrated a refined savoriness that married seamlessly with the sumeshi, and I was quite fond of the fish's distinctly sweet finish, too.

Kamasu
9: Kamasu
Barracuda highlighted a mouthwatering smoke and sear that combined swimmingly with the much milder nature of that rice.

Kanpachi
10: Kanpachi
Zuke-style amberjack was marinated in soy and sesame, and the latter imparted the fish with a delightful nuttiness that matched up easily with all the savory flavors at play.

Kawahagi
11: Kawahagi
Thread-sail filefish is a rare sight at Los Angeles-area sushi-ya, so I was glad to see it on offer tonight. The trigger fish's gentle, subtly sweet flavors were joined by a touch of onion-y zing, and more importantly, the creaminess of its own liver.

Chawanmushi
12: Chawanmushi
Serving as a hot, homey interlude, tonight's egg custard included snow crab in addition to a lone, oceany oyster and ginkgo, which made for some welcomed textural variation.

Akami
13: Akami
Bluefin from Spain arrived slick and satisfying, conveying a healthy amount of umami no doubt, with the rice working for contrast.

Chutoro
14: Chutoro
A medium-fatty cut of Spanish bluefin was a step up in the lusciousness department from the cut above, but was still fairly understated. The fish definitely possessed a softer mouthfeel, while the wasabi was also more apparent here.

Kohada
15: Kohada
Unsurprisingly, gizzard shad was easily the most assertive neta of the night, but also had an undercurrent of fruitiness to help keep things in check.

Aji
16: Aji
Horse mackerel (a.k.a. Spanish mackerel) is generally a favorite of mine when it comes to sushi, and tonight was no exception. I was a fan of the fish's "meatiness" and refined brine, while also crucial was green onion-y zestiness present.

Kinmedai
17: Kinmedai
Golden eye snapper was another winner thanks to its gratifying texture and lovely amount of char. Interestingly, the splendid alfonsino also seemed to emphasize the "crunchiness" of Hiro-san's rice in this application.

Uni
18: Uni
The sea urchin was a crowd pleaser for sure. A prototypical expression of the roe, this ate cool and creamy and sweet and saline, with a superb counterpoint in the form of that nori wrapper.

Tamago
19: Tamago
The arrival of tamagoyaki indicated that the end of the meal was near, and Yamada-san's preparation was of the cool, dense, sweet style.

Torotaku Maki
20: Torotaku Maki
Hand roll duties were handled by a pretty flawless combination of lush, fatty tuna and tart, crunchy takuan, with some zippy green onion thrown in for good measure.

Misoshiru
21: Misoshiru
The requisite miso soup incorporated the hatcho variety of the fermented soybean paste (along with standard shiromiso), and thus featured a richer, heavier taste compared to most, though both negi and tofu helped lighten the mood.

Kuro Goma Aisukurīmu
22: Kuro Goma Aisukurīmu
Kinako-dusted black sesame ice cream revealed a tāngyuán-esque sweet-nuttiness that I quite fancied. A consummate closer.

2024 Horus Blessed Purr
Back at home, dessert continued with the 2024 Horus Blessed Purr. Created in collaboration with Anchorage Brewing Company, this was a bourbon barrel-aged blend of double- and triple-oaked imperial stouts with DRC vanilla, Madagascar vanilla, raw coconut, and toasted coconut added. The beer was teeming with massive amounts of coconut, though not as much vanilla as I was expecting, all commingled with dark fruit, whiskey, oaky spices, and tinges of soy sauce--a fitting pastry stout.

I probably should've come here sooner, but I'm glad that I did finally make the effort pay Yamada-san and his team a visit. They delivered a commendable meal tonight, and I have to conclude that Sushidokoro Miyama is among the leading sushi spots in the SGV, and likely the top spot in the western stretches of the Valley given Fumio Azumi's departure from Kogane. And if that wasn't enough, there are more exciting things to come within the Bun Geiz family. As I mentioned above, Kazu Motoishi is currently working on opening up his own restaurant inside the new Hilton in Arcadia, so I'm definitely looking forward to that. There's also the recently-debuted Miura in Beverly Hills with Derek Wilcox (ex-Shibumi) running the show, while Sumibiyakitori Kidori has a new chef at the helm in the form of Riichi-san, who took over in mid-2025. Thus, more to come.