Alexander's Steakhouse (Pasadena, CA)

Alexander's Steakhouse
111 N Los Robles Ave, Pasadena, CA 91101
626.486.1111
www.alexanderssteakhouse.com
Fri 10/30/2015, 07:50p-12:00a





Los Angeles' steak game was upped at the end of July with the debut of Alexander's, part of a small chain of steakhouses founded in 2005 in Cupertino by James Chen and Chef Jeffrey Stout. The restaurants have been well-received generally, even garnering Michelin stars a few years back, and are unique in that their menus feature distinctly Japanese influences. Each Alexander's is given a degree of autonomy with the menu, and heading things up in Pasadena is Executive Chef Matt Bata.

About the Chef: Bata initially studied accounting, but got into the culinary field after moving to Las Vegas. He attended the Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts, and worked in the pastry department at Treasure Island during his time there. After two years, he transitioned to a prep cook role at T.I.'s Social House, and then moved to sister restaurant Company American Bistro as sous, under Executive Chef Marc Zimmerman. In 2010, Bata followed Zimmerman to San Francisco to open the second Alexander's outpost, where he stayed until leaving to start work on this Pasadena location.



Alexander's' location was formerly occupied by McCormick & Schmick's, which closed in September 2014. The space now features a sleeker, less stuffy, less woody aesthetic, though it's still steakhouse appropriate and rather large, with no less than three private dining rooms and a semi-private patio.



The menu follows the familiar steakhouse format, but the actual food definitely veers Japanese-y. Steaks are dry-aged on-site, and the restaurant features the most comprehensive wagyu selection that I've encountered. Unusually, there's also an eight-course tasting menu option at $175 plus $75 for pairing, as well as a Chef's Table with custom menus starting at $185pp. To imbibe, you get an American-focused wine list apropos for the concept, replete with a lot of the big names (and big prices), while cocktails are the work of Julian Cox mentee Erik Lund, who was previously behind the stick at Republique, MessHall, and Rivera. Click for larger versions.


Our amuse bouche comprised a wedge of sweet compressed pear with bits of walnut.


3rd & Los Angeles [$13.00] | Mezcal / Rye / Citrus / Pamplemousse / Fall Spices / Chocolate Bitters
I'm not sure what the significance of the intersection is (near the new Seoul Sausage), but whatever the inspiration, it made for a good cocktail. Lots of autumnal sweet spice on the nose, intertwined with citrus, while the taste brought notes of grapefruit alongside alcoholic heat, with the rim contributing salt on the back end.


Uni Tamago [$9.00] | Uni / Tamago / Egg Salad / Potato Chips / Celery
One of my favorite bites was this little number, which combined sweet, dense, eggy tamago with lush, ocean-y uni, the two elements joined together seamlessly by that herby egg salad.


Dry Aged Tataki [$13.00] | Burdock Root / Charred Onion Ponzu / Egg Yolk / Negi
The tataki was heavy-handed with regard to the ponzu, which had a strong sweet-savory relish that somewhat overshadowed the beef.


Benjamin Button's Maritime Law [$13.00] | All Spice / Grapefruit / Demerara Rum / Lime / Mint Bouquet
Another solid drink, this one with aromas of spice-n-mint and a taste that went savory, floral, autumnal, with a fantastic richness to it.


Hamachi Shots 3.0 [$24.00] | Dashi / Avocado / Fresno / Ponzu / Negi / Arare
Hamachi was tarted up by the liberal application of dashi and ponzu, with the radish and onion providing a much needed lightness to the fatty fish. Excellent crunch and umami from the rice crackers too.


Chilled Foie Gras [$24.00] | Cardamom / Date Puree / Roasted Fig / Truffle Balsamic / Ritz
Foie was as silky as you'd want, with subtle, finessed flavors. However, the various accompaniments went overboard when it came to sweetness and spicing, masking some of the inherent goodness of that liver.


4 Ways to Leave Your Lover [$15.00] | Mezcal / Cynar / Punt e Mes / Ancho Reyes / Grapefruit Oils
The booziest cocktail of the evening delivered, with an underpinning of heat and spice that really meshed well with the bittersweet flavors present.


Braised Veal Tongue [$16.00] | Makhani Sauce / Gooseberries / Pearl Onion / Crispy Garlic
Tongue was properly tender, accompanied by an Indian-esque sauce that almost veered Japanese curry-esque at points. Nice counterpoints from the onion and gooseberries as well.


Grilled Cook's Pork Belly [$18.00] | Pear Cream / Burnt Honey Gel / Cumin Dashi / Saffron Pears
Pork belly displayed a deft mix of lean, fat, and crispy skin. I was unsure of all that pear cream on the side, but fortunately it didn't become overwhelming with its sweetness.


The Texas Mule [$13.00] | Tito's / House Ginger / Lime / Bubbles
The lightest of our four cocktails, this one gave up a massive amount of ginger up front, subsequently evened out by the tartness of lime. Refreshing.


Grilled Octopus [$19.00] | Pepitas Ash Romesco / Roasted Garlic / Kale / Coriander
Octopus came out super tender, though it would've been nice to have some more char and crispiness on the outside. I really enjoyed the romesco though, which had a great ashy character that really permeated the dish.



Bread service came relatively late in the meal, but was on point. Varieties included Manchego Cheese Rolls, sweet-mild Japanese Milk Bread, and briny Japanese Squid Ink Baguettes. Meanwhile, accoutrements comprised Rendered Beef Fat, Honey Butter served in a bone, and Salted Strauss Organic Butter.


We moved into wine at this point, starting with some grower bubbly, the De l'Argentaine, Blanc de Noirs, Champagne, NV [$100]. An atypical Champagne composed solely of Pinot Meunier, it was rather lovely: notes of sweet apple abound on the nose, along with a backbone of toast; taste followed with sweet, rich fruit underscored by a sharp breadiness.


Macaroni and Cheese [$11.00] | Udon / Caramelized Mornay / Truffle Panko
In our first side dish, short sections of udon made for an unconventional take on your classic mac & cheese. I found it lighter, less overtly cheesy than usual, with a strong umami presence.



Aurora Angus Ribeye Chop 20oz [$65.00] | Illinois Raised Prime Black Angus / Grilled Lemon
Getting into the steak now, the rib eye was a fine specimen, arriving tender, juicy, flavorful, with well-integrated marbling and a particularly apparent pepperiness. Great with a squirt of lemon too.


Creamed Taro Leaves [$10.00] | Cured Beef / Taro Chips / Parmesan
Now this was something new. Creamed taro leaves made for a fitting substitute for your typical creamed spinach. The leaves were bitter, earthy at first, with a slight coconut-y sweetness coming in later.


Bone-In New York 18oz [$78.00] | Grilled Sudachi / Chive Butter / Chives
The dry-aged prime strip was up next, and not surprisingly, it wasn't quite as melty or tender as the preceding rib eye. Rather, it showed off a purer, more focused beefiness, complemented by a great touch of charring.


Brussels Sprouts [$10.00] | Beef Fat Vinaigrette / Crispy Shallot / Chili
Brussels were very good, crunchy and bitter and smoky, with a spot on sweet-n-sour quality.


Red wine duties were handled by the Robert Biale, The Black Chicken, Napa Valley, CA, 2013 [$95]. A big, bold Zinfandel, the wine exuded tons of jammy dark berry fruit and peppery spice, moderated by a persistent acidity. Tasty.


Rainbow Carrots [$9.00] | Chorizo / Nouc Mam / Orange / Red Onion
Sweet, crisp carrots were amped up by the pungency of fish sauce while chorizo imparted salt and spice. Great zestiness from the red onions, too.



Kagoshima Japan A5 [$98.00/3oz] | Well Balanced Marbled Texture / Small Farm
Hokkaido Japan A5 [$152.00/3oz] | Château Uenae / Farmed in Below Freezing Temperatures
Time for Japanese beef. For comparative purposes, we opted to sample the highest and lowest priced cuts. Kagoshima wagyu (on the left) is perhaps the most common type here in the States, and I've had it a number of times already. It didn't let us down tonight with its melty consistency, char savor, and rich, smoky, lingering, almost ham-like flavors. On the other hand, I don't think I'd ever encountered Hokkaido beef before, so it was a pleasure to be able to sample it. The meat was definitely fattier, and even more melt-in-your-mouth, with an foie gras-like unctuousness that lasted long on the palate--wow.


Blue Lake Beans [$9.00] | Flash Fried / Garlic / Sansyo
Green beans made for my favorite of the sides. Excellent crunchiness here paired with some deeply savory flavors.


Along with the wagyu came a sampling of six salts: Kala Namak, Murray River, Pangasinan, Welsh Oak, Black Lava, and Red Hawaiian. My favorite was the Kala Namak from India, which had a strong sulfur component that recalled hard-boiled egg. I was also a fan of the Welsh Oak and its distinct smokiness.


Eryngi Mushrooms [$13.00] | Roasted Garlic / Thyme / Lemon Vinaigrette
King trumpets were wonderfully springy to the bite, with a great citrusy zest from the vinaigrette to balance out their inherent umami flavors.


Desserts were a must of course, and definitely more interesting than usual. They're the charge of Pastry Chef Gail Romulo, a French Culinary Institute ('06) and CIA ('10) grad who worked at Lever House, Chinatown Brasserie, and Park Avenue Café in New York as well as The Pluckemin Inn in New Jersey before joining the Alexander's team in September 2011. Click for a larger version.


A dessert amuse combined thick, creamy, tangy frozen yogurt with raspberries and a berry granita.


Pumpkin Sticky Toffee Pudding [$12.00] | Chicory Bourbon Toffee Sauce / Cranberry / Pepita Crumble / Coffee - Star Anise Ice Cream
The sticky toffee pudding was a crowd pleaser, coming out properly sugary and loaded with rich autumnal spices. Nice bit of zippiness from the star anise ice cream to match.


Soufflé [$15.00] | Cookies 'n Cream Soufflé / Vanilla Anglaise / Ice Cream Sandwiches
The soufflé didn't quite taste like cookies & cream to me--I got more of a corn sweetness with chocolate--though I did enjoy it. Good job here with the mini ice cream sandwiches to boot.


Huckleberry Mochi [$12.00] | Coconut Cream / Milk Chocolate Crémeux / Crispy Coconut Macaroon / Milk Chocolate Lemon Verbena Ice Cream
Mochi did an admirable job conveying the sweet-tartness of huckleberry, and I definitely appreciated that lemon-y kick from the ice cream too.


A birthday cake was done in the "Funfetti" style, which I somehow missed out on during my childhood.


Mignardises consisted of airy chouquettes, some super-dense housemade fudge with sprinkles, and hefty salted caramel bonbons.


Our parting gift was a bag of Brown Butter-Cinnamon-Sugar Popcorn that tasted eerily similar to Apple Jacks cereal (but in a good way).


In preparation for Halloween the following day, the kitchen was in the midst of whipping up Miniature Caramel Candied Apples and offered us a sample. It was as good as any I've had, with the pecan and chocolate crunchies working perfectly alongside that crisp, juicy apple.

A worthy addition to the Los Angeles steakhouse scene, just as I suspected. The steaks themselves were thoroughly enjoyable, and I especially appreciated the expanded array of wagyu offerings, the largest I've seen. Sides and starters were more intriguing than usual, thanks to the Japanese thread running through them, though a few of the dishes could've used some refining. Even so, taking into account the cocktail program and the level of service, I have no problem placing Alexander's alongside the top steakhouses in the Southland.

Viviane (Beverly Hills, CA)

Viviane Restaurant at the Avalon Hotel
9400 West Olympic Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310.407.7791
www.vivianerestaurant.com
Thu 10/29/2015, 08:20p-12:15a



When we last encountered Michael Hung, he was dishing out steak tartar at Plate by Plate, representing Faith & Flower. He left the place just days later though, and word quickly came that he would be teaming up with Stephane Bombet once again for another project. That project soon revealed itself to be Viviane, set in Proper Hospitality's Avalon Hotel, a 1949-era property that was once quite popular with the Hollywood set from what I understand. The restaurant opened on October 25th, and features the Chef's Californian take on traditional European/American cuisine. In addition to Hung and Bombet, Francois Renaud's on board as Managing Partner and Wine Director, while General Manager duties are being handled by Emmanuel Faure (Acabar, The Little Door, The Pacific Club, SoHo House, Craft, L'Orangerie, Seeger's).



Viviane takes over the old home of Oliverio, which shuttered after the departure of Chef Mirko Paderno (he left at the end of July to work on Officine BRERA with the Factory Kitchen guys). The space has been revamped by Kelly Wearstler to a mid-century California modern sort of vibe, with lots of turquoise and neutral tones abound. A marble bar anchors one end of the dining room, and there's poolside seating as well if you prefer.


As for the menu, it's all about Hung's Cal-Continental fare in the usual progression of smaller plates, large ones, and sides. And since we're in a hotel, breakfast, lunch, and brunch options are also available. Desserts, meanwhile, were designed by Consulting Pastry Chef Bill Corbett, while running the day-to-day is Yuko Ikeda, who previously worked at Hinoki & the Bird, Lady M, Eleven Madison Park, and Payard Patisserie. To drink, you get throwback cocktails from Bar Director Ryan Wainwright, and a French-leaning wine list from Renaud. Click for larger versions.


Manhattan [$15.00] | flight of all three below
When there's a Manhattan flight on the menu, you have to take it (left to right):

• Cuban | Bacardi 8Yr Rum, Hamilton Guyana Rum, Cocchi Vermouth, Bitters: My favorite of the three. Loads of dark cherry and spice set over a base of boozy rum.
• Traditional | Rye, Cinzano Vermouth, Bitters: Strong citrus aromas at first, leading to bittersweet flavors and rye spice, with a persistent alcoholic heat.
• Rob Roy | Scotch, Carpano Vermouth, Chinato, Bitters: Strong bitter and herbal nose, the taste really showing off the smokiness of the Scotch.

Pastrami-Cured Wild Salmon Tartine [$14.00] | Ricotta Cheese, Spiced Pickled Squash
Salmon came smoky and spicy, its pastrami-esque flavors tempered by the creamy ricotta. Great crunch from the toast as well.


Foie Gras au Torchon [$24.00] | Candied Butternut Squash, Cider Gelée, Walnuts
Foie was silky smooth, delicately liver-y, with the squash and cider providing just enough sweetness and a countering punch of acidity. Very nice.


Pineapple Punch [$13.00] | Hamilton Guyana Rum, Aromatique Bitters, Pineapple, Orgeat
Tons of sweet, tropical spice in this viscous, richly-flavored cocktail made it all go down easy.


Fuyu Persimmon & Pomegranate Salad [$14.00] | Honey-Thyme Vinaigrette, Sunflower Seeds
We really enjoyed the juicy, fruity flavors from the pomegranate and persimmon and how they matched up against the bitterness of the greens. Great nutty crunch on the back end from the pepitas too.


Rickey [$13.00] | Haymans Old Tom Gin, Lime Cordial, Club Soda
Light, invigorating, with a focused lime tartness and the botanicals coming in on the midpalate.


Soft-Cooked Duck Egg [$12.00] | Caramelized Endive, Pomegranate, Quinoa
Think a mish-mash of nutty quinoa, bitter endive, and juicy pomegranate seeds, all enveloped by the lushness of a runny egg. Yum.


Yellowfin Tuna Tartare [$14.00] | Pine Nut Crema, Pickled Onion, Ciabatta Crostini
The tuna tartar was one of the more interesting versions I've had, with the springy, supple cubes of fish infused with a persistent herbiness while pinoli imparted a creamy, overarching nuttiness. Excellent bread here in addition.


Cosmopolitan [$13.00] | Grey Goose Vodka, Lime Juice, Cranberry Cordial
I tend to avoid Cosmos due to their associated stigma stemming from Sex and the City. However, I channeled my inner Carrie tonight and got one. It was about what you'd expect: sweet, almost candied, with a strong citric counterpoint and the vodka well-hidden.


Handmade Linguine [$29.00] | Marinated Geoduck, Manila Clams & Chardonnay Sauce
Linguine was buttery and briny, the inherent salty goodness of the geoduck and clams well conveyed. Very tasty.


Vesper [$12.00] | Russian Standard Vodka, Bombay Dry Gin, Cocchi Americano
The most bracing cocktail of the night. Citrusy and botanical on the nose, with more gin character coming through on the palate, joined by an undercurrent of sweetness.


Crispy Pork Belly [$15.00] | Brussels Sprouts Kraut, Apple Onion Compote, Rosemary Jus
Belly arrived rich, fatty, and crispy on the outside, with a strong fragrant quality from the rosemary. I definitely appreciated the bitterness from the Brussels, though I wasn't as keen on the fruity compote.


Ricotta Ravioli [$22.00] | Chanterelle Mushrooms, Roasted Corn, Brown Butter
Sort of an appropriate dish for fall, with dark, sweet, autumnal flavors evened out by the light, lactic tang of ricotta.


The Old Fashioned Style [$12.00] | Your Choice of Spirit, Bitters
For our last cocktail, we went bartender's choice and got an Old Fashioned made with Ancient Age bourbon and orange bitters. I thoroughly enjoyed the end result, which was uncommonly citrus-y and perfume-y on the nose, with a smooth palate that showed off some great floral, vanilla-laced flavors.


Sautéed Haricots Verts [$9.00] | Brown Butter & Almonds
Green beans were crisp and waxy, with a pervading nuttiness.



Grilled 12oz Piedmontese Ribeye Steak [$49.00] | Bone Marrow Gremolata, Creamy Potato Purée
Hung then sent out the rib eye, a highlight of the meal for all of us. Great flavor and juiciness from the beef, with the gremolata imparting a welcomed zestiness to the mix. And texturally, the steak was one of the smoothest, finest-grained examples I've had, even recalling seared ahi tuna at moments.


Wine time. The Pierre Morey, Monthélie 2012 [$128] worked itself out with the steak just fine. Earthy, meaty aromas with a trace of forest floor; taste was definitely on the more rustic side, with berry fruit, barnyard, and a strong acidity.


Smoked Potato Purée [$9.00] | Crème Fraîche & Chives
Potatoes were lovely: silky with just the right amount of smoke and chive zing.


Shellfish Boudin Blanc [$32.00] | Lobster, Scallops, and Gulf Shrimp, Sauce Americaine
A white sausage definitely showed off the ocean-y flavors of the shellfish, with their natural brine enhanced by a generous helping of that américaine sauce. Smart use of celery as a counterpoint here, though I would've liked a more substantial texture on the boudin.


Sautéed Broccolini Rapini [$9.00] | Garlic & Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Broccoli raab was crunchy and particularly bitter, with the garlic serving to even out the strong flavors present.


Faure then brought over some Grand Guilhem Rivesaltes Rancio. It was a delightful wine--deeply aromatic, with a palpable sweetness offset by its oxidative character.


Chef's Selection of Five Cheeses [$23.00] | Seasonal Mustard Fruits, Honey, Grilled Ciabatta
Cheese came with acacia honey and apple mostarda. Clockwise from bottom-right, we had:

• Robiola: Properly creamy, with a delectable mushroom-y funk and tang.
• Valençay: Chalky on the palate; mildly-flavored and slightly nutty, with a bit of fruitiness on the finish.
• Ossau-Iraty: Great texture from this sheep's milk cheese from Basque Country; nutty and somewhat grassy.
• Époisses: One of my favorite cheeses: very pungent, funky, sharp, salty.
• Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue: Relatively approachable for a blue, with your traditional sweet-salty, earthy flavors present, but subdued.

Milk Chocolate Crémieux [$9.00] | Bitter Orange, Basil Meringue, Pine Nut Crumble
Our first dessert was almost Jordan Kahn-esque in its presentation, and tasted the part too, with its juicy citrus and nutty notes layered over a base of not-too-sweet chocolate.


Sweet Potato Toffee Pudding [$9.00] | Compressed Asian Pear, Ice Milk With Warm Spices
Lots of spices--almost South Asian in nature--in the pudding here, all balanced out by the herbal, coconut-y ice milk.


Riesling Poached Pear [$9.00] | Almond Frangipane, Brown Butter Anglaise
Apropos for the season, with the rich, sweetly-spiced fruit pairing well with the crusty frangipane, the anglaise tying it all together neatly.

It looks like Hung and company have done a nice job with Viviane. They've got a sort of new school-old school thing going on here, with cooking that's classic in essence, but with the advertised seasonality and modernity in play. It makes for food that's familiar but interesting enough, and a big step up from the fare that you'd typically expect in a hotel setting like this.