Forma (Santa Monica, CA)

Forma Restaurant & Cheese Bar
1610 Montana Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90403
424.231.2868
www.formarestaurant.com
Tue 09/29/2015, 08:00p-11:05p





Having opened its doors at the end of May, Forma's the latest place to debut on this oft-ignored stretch of Montana. Named after the Northern Italian word formaggio, the restaurant aims to present Cal-Italian fare with an emphasis on the incorporation of cheese. In particular, the place is known for its pastas served dalla forma, in which cooked pasta is finished in large wheels of cheese prior to serving. It's the work of three partners: General Manager Mario Sabatini (of Pecorino in Brentwood, where brother Raffaele is chef), Rob Donnell (founder of branded entertainment firm Brand Arc), and Executive Chef Piero Topputo.

About the Chef: Topputo grew up in the Southern Italian town of Gravina in Puglia, the youngest of five children. His mother taught him cooking starting from a young age, and after high school, he enrolled in culinary school in the city of Matera. He stayed there for five years, working summers in kitchens in Florence, Hidalgo, and Rimini. After finishing, Topputo cooked his way through Italy and England, then relocated to the United States in 1991, landing in Los Angeles. Here, he found a job as a cook at Oli Ola in Pacific Palisades, which had opened earlier that year.

He later helped open sister restaurant Terraza Toscana in the latter half of 1992, and was eventually made Executive Chef at the flagship Toscana in Brentwood. It was here where he would meet Sabatini, who'd moved to the US in 1996 and started out as a bus boy there (he would later become GM). Topputo stayed for 10 years before decamping and joining Ago Sciandri (Ago, Sortino) at Beverly Hills' Caffe Roma in 2006. His next move came in 2009, when he took on the Exec Chef role at Amici Brentwood, the brainchild of Tancredi De Luca (opening maître d' at Toscana). The two also debuted Trattoria Amici at The Americana at Brand in Glendale later that year, where Topputo stayed until 2014.


Situated a stone's throw away from fellow newcomer Ox & Son, Forma takes over the old Jack’s on Montana space, which has been redone by Aero Collective (Broken Spanish, B.S. Taqueria).


Forma's menu reads wide-ranging and formaggio-centric, with a bit of a Californian slant, and is joined by an extensive cheese list. Lunch and brunch are also options. In terms of drinking, you get an Italian- and NorCal-focused wine list as well as a surprisingly lengthy array of beers. Click for larger versions.


Wine seemed like the appropriate beverage choice for the meal, so we opted to begin with something bubbly, the Nino Franco Prosecco 'Rustico' (Italy) [$45]. I found it an easy-drinking sparkler, lightly sweet with a nice stone fruit and citrus character, all balanced by an offsetting acidity.


Chicken Meatballs [$9.00] | light broth, artichokes
I'm a sucker for meatballs, and Forma's were very homey, arriving lightly-flavored with a pronounced vegetal note from the artichoke.


Filet Mignon Tartare [$16.00] | avocado, fresno chile pepper, capers, shallot, parmigiano, grilled bread
The tartar was one of our favorites. Good interaction between the beef and the creaminess of avocado, with the cheese adding a salty accent to things.


Branzino 'Crudo' [$16.00] | bottarga, micro chives, fresno chili peppers
Branzino was augmented by the potency of olive oil, though the dish was kept light and bright by the overarching herby notes present. Lovely bit of lingering heat on the finish.


Savory Doughnut Duo Sandwich [$12.00] | stracciatella, tomato and prosciutto/nduja and zucchini scapece
Next came a duet of donut-y sandwiches. Starting in the back, the combo of 'nduja and zucchini made for a smoky flavor profile that was matched by the lushness of stracciatella. Meanwhile, the tomato-prosciutto resulted in a sweet-salty interplay that, again, contrasted the creamy cheese. I rather enjoyed the texture on the donuts as well.


Grilled Spanish Octopus [$18.00] | lentils
Octo was super tender, with a delicate brine to it that definitely made sense with the nutty lentils. I really wanted more char, more bite however.


Pizza Mushrooms [$22.00] | tete de moine cheese, tomato sauce, medley of gourmet mushrooms
A mushroom pizza was tasty, the back-and-forth between the cheese and funghi working out swimmingly. At the same time, the crust went thin, crisp, bitter--very fitting given the application.


Pecorino Romano [$22.00] | spaghetti cacio e pepe
At this point, we moved into the dalla forma pastas. Good ol' Cacio e Pepe hit the mark for the most part, with the al dente spaghetti enrobed by gratifying amounts of cheese and black pepper.


Red wine duties were taken care of by the Vietti Nebbiolo d'Alba 'Perbacco' 2012, Piemonte (Italy) [$60]. Think boozy, dark, and tart red fruit on the nose. Taste veered tannic, a bit herby too, with licorice bringing up the rear.


Roasted Cauliflower [$9.00] | melted raclette cheese
Cauliflower wasn't lacking in the cheesiness department, though it definitely could've used more char, more crust.


Grana Padano [$24.00] | garganelli pasta, speck, radicchio, peas
The garganelli was firmer than I'd like, though I wasn't too concerned. You got a salty-sweet thing going on between the ham and the peas, while the radicchio gave the dish an undercurrent of bitterness.


Braised Short Ribs [$32.00] | 8 hours slow cooked boneless beef short ribs + short ribs ravioli
Short ribs were classic, arriving near-falling-apart tender and loaded with tons of dark, beefy savor. I did find them just a touch dry though, and I wasn't quite as sold on the ravioli either.


Bella Lodi [$25.00] | tortellini, mixed seasonal mushrooms, light cream, truffle oil
The tortellini was perhaps the easiest-eating of the three pastas, creamy and earthy thanks to the mushrooms, with the truffle oil imparting even more pugency to the dish.


Potato Fries [$5.00] | sea salt
Fries were quite good, almost tasting like an elevated version of what's served at McD's, interestingly enough.


Filet of Sole [$29.00] | breadcrumbs, crispy artichokes
We ended with my favorite course of the night and one of the best preparations of sole that I've had. I got just a really spot on mix of savory, herby flavors from the fish, and the crispness of the breadcrumbs worked wonders texturally. This came recommended by our server, and she was right on the money.


As for dessert, they're the work of David Lotman, a Johnson & Wales grad who's spent time at L'Orangerie, Geoffrey's, Drago, Celestino, and, most recently, Via Alloro. Click for a larger version.


nutella bread pudding [$8.00]
Bread pudding tasted fine--eggy with a sweet spice--but arrived undercooked unfortunately.


chia vanilla petit pot with mango and strawberries [$8.00]
A pot de crème was about what you'd expect: creamy vanilla custard accented by the tart, acidic fruit up top.


lime tart [$8.00]
My favorite of the desserts was the lime tart. I got a delightful brightness and tartness from the custard, though the crust was on the soft side.

Forma's the sort of Italian restaurant that you'd expect to find in the area. For the most part, the food's tasty, satisfying, crowd-pleasing, but you don't really get that sense of gutsiness you find at places like Alimento or Bestia or Scopa or Sotto or Union, which I think might benefit the place.

Sausal (El Segundo, CA)

Sausal Restaurant
219 Main St, El Segundo, CA 90245
310.322.2721
www.sausal.com
Sun 09/27/2015, 07:05p-10:00p





The most interesting opening to hit El Segundo in a long time came at the start of September. Named after Rancho Sausal Redondo (a land grant that once encompassed much of the area south of LAX), Sausal aims to present a modern take on Alta California, rancho-inspired cuisine, with a particular emphasis on wood-fired, slow-roasted cooking. It's the work of partners Sorin Costache and Joseph Suceveanu (GM and founder of Santa Monica's Il Forno, respectively), as well as Chef Anne Conness.

About the Chef: Conness was born in Florida but raised in Northern California. She attended Georgetown, majoring in English, and during her time there, cemented her interest in food and cooking after a life-changing meal at Jean-Louis Palladin's eponymous restaurant at the Watergate. Following graduation, she moved to Los Angeles and worked in entertainment as a set background painter, then later took a position in Warner Bros' postproduction department. Already in her thirties by this point, Conness decided to change careers and enrolled at the Epicurean School of Culinary Arts in West Hollywood. After finishing, she landed a gig at Wolfgang Puck's iconic Chinois on Main, working under Exec Chef Mako Tanaka (who helped open the restaurant in 1983 with Kazuto Matsusaka of Beacon fame).

Next came stints at Campanile and Water Grill (helmed by Michael Cimarusti at the time). She then went to work for Alex Scrimgeour at Saddle Peak Lodge and followed him to the short-lived Alex (which occupied the address most recently home to Hatfield's). Conness secured her first Executive Chef role in 2002 at Charles Nuzzo's EM Bistro in WeHo, but left in 2004 despite considerable accolades. Her next job was that of EC at Napa Valley Grille, where she earned acclaim for revitalizing the somewhat chain-y restaurant; however, she was out the door by December 2006, replaced by Joseph Gillard. In 2007, Conness partnered with Mike Simms, and they eventually opened Simmzy's as well as Tin Roof Bistro in Manhattan Beach in 2009, both of which have aided the rise of the South Bay dining scene.


Sausal takes over the former homes of Indian Summer and Electric Bikes LA (they've been combined). It's an attractive room, vaguely rancho-themed, anchored by a dual-sided fireplace and a mural by artist Celeste Korthase.


As for Sausal's menu, it's billed as "Nuevo Rancho," incorporating Latin American cookery alongside a Cal cuisine ethos, and reads like pretty much what you'd expect from an upscale Mexican joint. To drink, there are about a dozen beers available, a compact South American-leaning wine list, a few cocktails (with decent back bar), and Stumptown coffee. Corkage was advertised at $19 a pop, with no limit. Click for larger versions.


Prickly Pear Caipirinha [$11.00] | Leblon Cachaca, Lime Cubes, Prickly Pear, House Grenadine
This take on Brazil's iconic caipirinha was, not surprisingly, much sweeter than you typically find, with the fruitiness of the prickly pear front and center, offset only somewhat by the lime.


Yellowtail Crudo [$16.50] | heirloom tomato habanero sauce, avocado, serrano chilis, garlic, cumin lime salt, corn nuts
We began with the crudo, which was one of the standouts of the night, the clean cuts of fish pairing seamlessly with the sour/spicy/sweet nuances in the dish. Perfect crunchiness from the toasted corn too.


Caramelized Brussels Sprouts over Sourdough Croutons [$9.00] | guajillo butter, croutons, smoked cashews, dried shrimp & lime
Brussels came out out bitter and charred. Tasty sure, though I wanted more funkiness from the dried shrimp. The croutons didn't really do much for me either.


Smoky Paloma [$14.00] | Fidencio Unico Mescal, Honey Syrup, Lillet Blanc, Grapefruit, Lime, Splash Soda
A take on the paloma went down easy, the bright, floral flavors in the drink countered by the smokiness of mezcal.


Potato Rajas [$9.00] | weiser farms heirloom potatoes, poblano chili cream, habanero yellow salsa, shredded red cabbage, crisped up mushrooms
Tiny potatoes were elevated by the richness of poblano crema in a somewhat unconventional taco. Good textural contrast from the shreds of red cabbage, and I enjoyed the sweet-hot punch of that habanero salsa too.


Spicy Tuna Tostadas [$15.00] | sushi-grade yellowfin, avocado puree, chili mayo, apple slaw, chia
Tuna was paired with a sweet-ish, almost Thousand Island-esque condiment that made for slightly muddled flavors. I definitely would've liked more heat as well to punctuate things better.


Rancho Margarita [$8.00] | El Jimador Blanco, Bols Triple, Fresh Citrus, Salt
Sausal's margarita was traditional at its core, with a touch of spiciness on the finish.


Fresh Ceviche Mixto [$11.50] | wild mexican white shrimp, calamari, lingcod, lime, cumin, sweet corn, citrus, celery, yellow habanero salsa
A ceviche presented a patchwork of herby, sweet, and tart flavors, though I wanted more brininess, more distinction between the various items of seafood. A crunchier tostada would've been appreciated as well.


Chicken & Charred Tomato Tinga [$9.50] | crushed avocado, pickled onions, sour cream, cilantro
The tinga ate cozily, its tomato-forward taste accented by a whisper of smoke from the salsa. Nice use of the pickled onions for acidity.


Blackberry Ginger Smashup [$12.00] | Hayman's Old Tom, Lemon Wedges, Blackberry, Ginger Syrup, Mint
Lots of ginger at the start here, with berries coming in later, the whole thing accented by the freshness of mint.


Duck Leg & Chanterelle Tamale [$14.50] | shredded duck confit, roasted chanterelles, black mole, cotija
The tamal definitely showed off the heft of the mole, a sweet, savory, earthy depth that paired well with the shards of duck. Some very strong corn notes from the masa stuffing as well.



Beef & Goat Birria [$19.50] | slow-simmered mixed meats served in chili broth w cilantro-onion relish, jicama slaw, tortillas & a spoon!
Sausal's take on birria largely met the mark. The stew did a pretty good job conveying the rich, spicy, tangy flavors of the classic preparation, and the tender cuts of meat went particularly well with the accompanying tortillas. I was a fan of the onions here too, which gave up a great zestiness.


2nd City Manhattan [$12.00] | Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Carpano Antica Vermouth, Ango Bitters, Fernet Branca, Luxardo Cherry
This variation on the Manhattan was the booziest drink of the night, the bourbon really making itself known against contrasting bittersweet and herbal notes.


Beef Brisket Barbacoa [$11.00] | long cooked beef, black beans, cotija crumbles, charred tomato salsa, scallions
Brisket came out sweet, meaty, and as tender as you'd want, with the cheese serving as an appropriate accent. Yum.


Sweet Corn Elote w Jack Cheese & Chipotle Cream [$4.50]
Esquites were very tasty--sweet and creamy with a touch of smoky spice.


Future Fix [$11.00] | Rittenhouse Rye, Scrappy's Firewater Bitters, Agave, Lemon
In our final cocktail, we had a smart combination of spicy rye and sugary agave flavors as a base, with a back end that was all about a tingling heat.



Pork Pozole [$14.00] | pork & chili stew with hominy & a tostada of cabbage, onion, radish & lime
Given my penchant for pozole, we had to end with the soup. It was one of the highlights of the night for me, displaying all the hearty, homey flavors that I was expecting, combined with a pervasive spice and great textures from the hominy.


Spanish Sticky Date Cake w Spiced Pecans & Vanilla Ice Cream [$7.50]
We were quite full at this point, so we opted for only one of Sausal's desserts, which are the work of Consulting Pastry Chef Natasha MacAller. The cake was a winner as well, loaded with plenty of sugary dark fruit and perfectly matched to the vanilla ice cream and nutty crumbles up top.

I was generally contented with Sausal, especially given where it's located, though a few of the plates could certainly use refining. Conness has got a nice sort of Cal-Mex menu going on, one that's familiar yet incorporates some compelling facets. A positive development for El Segundo.