Saturday, May 24, 2014

Bourbon Steak (Glendale, CA)

Bourbon Steak Los Angeles
237 S Brand Blvd, Glendale, CA 91204
818.839.4130
www.michaelmina.net/restaurants/southern-california/bourbon-steak-los-angeles/
Sat 05/24/2014, 08:10p-11:30p




Bourbon Steak Glendale Exterior

Despite his dozens of properties around the country, Michael Mina has never had a solid presence here in Southern California. Sure, he operates Stonehill Tavern down at the St. Regis in Dana Point (where Joshua Skenes worked prior to Saison), and there was of course the ill-fated XIV (where we first got to know Steven Fretz and Jordan Kahn), but that's been the extent of it. It's especially surprisingly since LA is where the Chef got his start, beginning his career under George Morrone inside the kitchens of the Hotel Bel-Air. As such, I was a bit surprised last April when Mina announced that he was opening a branch of his Bourbon Steak concept at Rick Caruso's Americana at Brand shopping center. The restaurant bowed at the end of March, and joins five other BS outposts in Detroit, Miami, Scottsdale, Washington DC, and San Francisco.

About the Chef: Running the kitchens here on a day-to-day basis is one Joseph Conrad. Conrad worked various industry positions in his younger years, and also attended the University of Iowa from 1994 to 1996. In 1998, he relocated to California, and found work as a banquet chef at the Embassy Suites Hotel San Diego Bay, where he stayed for two years. He later transitioned to a sous position at Aqua Blu, then went to Rainwater's on Kettner and following, Dublin Square (where he had his first Exec Chef role), all while pursuing a liberal arts degree from San Diego Mesa College. In 2002, Conrad decided to pursue a formal culinary education, and moved up north to attend the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco.

After graduating in 2003, he cooked at the vaunted Charlie Trotter's for a brief period, then returned to SF. There, he headed up the kitchen at Azie until 2005, then cooked at 415 Restaurant & Bar. In 2007, Conrad settled in Seattle, becoming Executive Chef of Qube and later starting an artisanal sea salt company ("Secret Stash Sea Salts") with partner Janna Wemmer. He then took the reins at both Twist and its sister restaurant Ventana in October 2008, working there until the middle of 2010. Next, he served as CdC at Jason Wilson's James Beard-winning Crush, also in Seattle, but left in September 2012 to join the Mina Group as Chef de Cuisine of RN74, under David Varley, where he stayed until coming down to run Bourbon Steak.

Bourbon Steak Glendale Interior
Bourbon Steak's AvroKO-penned, 182-seat space looks like a proper steakhouse, replete with lots of wood, brushed metal, neutral colors, tufted seating surfaces, and yes, even a live piano player. Interestingly though, there's a grab-and-go type patisserie out front selling various pastries and Lamill coffee.

Bourbon Steak Glendale Menu
As for Bourbon Steak's menu, you'll find your typical steakhouse staples, joined by some more unconventional fare as well. In terms of steak, there are no less than five different types, including three pricey wagyu options. Click for a larger version.

Bourbon Steak Glendale Cocktail List Bourbon Steak Glendale Cocktail List Bourbon Steak Glendale Cocktail List
To drink, there's a healthy, red-leaning wine list put together by Rajat Parr, a smattering of beer, and a pretty serious cocktail program (pictured above) that veers, unsurprisingly, toward whiskies. They even do smoked bourbon flights and Japanese whiskey ceremonies tableside. Click for larger versions.

Duck Fat Fries
After being seated, we were quickly presented with a complementary trio of duck fat French fries. Going front to back, we had a heartily-spiced pastrami version with a sweet 'n' sour barbeque sauce, a cheesy Parmesan prep with creamy Caesar aioli, and a tangy pickle-spiced presentation with pickle ketchup.

Tlaquepaque
Tlaquepaque [$12.00] | Barrel-Aged, Espolon Reposado Tequila, Crème de Pêche, Angostura Orange Bitters
We of course had to give the cocktails here a go, and started with a threesome. This tequila-based one showed off loads of citrus on the nose, while the taste was nicely balanced, the sweetness of the peach really evening out the potency of the Espolon.

Vieux Carré
Vieux Carré [$12.00] | Rye, Cognac, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Benedictine, Bitters, Lemon
The restaurant's take on New Orleans' iconic Vieux Carré was pretty classic, a well-integrated presentation with a pleasantly bittersweet, citric tinge.

Avantgrand
Avantgrand [$12.00] | Barrel-Aged, Bank Note 5yr Scotch, Laphroaig, Amaro Averna, Crème de Banana
I'm quite the fan of Laphroaig, and my favorite cocktail of the troika displayed the spirit's signature smokiness, tempered by the comparatively mild flavor of the Bank Note, the banana imparting a great countervailing sweetness to the fray. Lovely peat finish here, too.

Truffle Butter Bun
Bourbon Steak's sole bread offering was a delightful truffle butter bun. Truffle, salt, butter--can't go too wrong with that.

Oysters on the Half Shell
Oysters on the Half Shell [$36.00/dozen] | Champagne Mignonette
Oysters made for a natural start to the meal. Kusshis were on offer tonight, and they were as clean, crisp, and briny as you'd want, great either alone or with a dash of that mignonette.

Kampachi Belly
Kampachi Belly [$14.00]
Kampachi was superb, wonderful texturally and showcasing robust nuances of fat and brine that paired beautifully with the dish's yuzu-based dressing.

Duck Spring Rolls
Duck Spring Rolls [$12.00] | Ginger-Chile Dipping Sauce, Mint, Cilantro
Spring rolls were fun, crisp, savory, Asian-y little bites, the tasty shards of duck playing well with the brightness of cilantro and mint while the included condiment offered up a hit of acidity to bring everything together.

Darker & Stormier
Darker & Stormier [$12.00] | Fizzy-Lifting, Vizcaya Rum, Domaine de Canton Ginger, Grapefruit, Lime, Fernet Branca
Our second round of cocktails got started with Bourbon Steak's version of the traditional Dark and Stormy. It was a weightier concoction compared to the original, with a refreshing fizz to it joined by ginger-y overtones and an almost medicinal undercurrent to it that I wasn't quite sold on.

Number 1 (Lavender Mist)
Number 1 (Lavender Mist) [$12.00] | Death's Door Gin, Tempus Fugit Kina L'Avion D'or, Lavender-White Pepper Syrup, Lemon, Absinthe
A play on the Corpse Reviver #2 was up next. I rather liked it, the gin working swimmingly alongside the citrus-y, slightly herbal nuances in the drink, the Kina l'Avion d'Or adding a great bittersweet depth to things.

The French Gentlemen
The French Gentlemen [$12.00] | Fizzy-Lifting, Landy Cognac, Yellow Chartreuse, Asian Pear, Domaine de Canton Ginger, Lemon, Anise
Our last cocktail actually shared some common threads with the Darker & Stormier above, with similar textures and notes of ginger. This one had a spicier quality to it though, with a more subdued medicinal character and a palpable bitterness on the finish.

Japanese Wagyu Shabu Shabu
Japanese Wagyu Shabu Shabu [$58.00/2 Oz] | Dashi, Miso, Watermelon Radish
A shabu-shabu presentation of A5 wagyu made quite the impression, both visually and in terms of taste. The beef was as slick and fatty as you'd expect, delicious after a five second dip in dashi broth, and perfectly accompanied by the lightness of the enoki, greens, and radish, all finished by pin points of salt toward the back end. Once we finished up the meat, we eagerly supped up the remaining liquid, imbued with the earthy potency of mushroom and miso.

Hamachi & Tuna Poppers
Hamachi & Tuna Poppers [$16.00] | Crispy Rice, Ponzu, Ginger Dressing
The so-called "poppers" were probably the most uninteresting of the items we had, but were still tasty enough, the yellowtail showing off noticeably more depth and character compared to the tuna versions, the rice on both offering up a sticky, crispy counterpoint.

English Pea Agnolotti
English Pea Agnolotti [$18.00] | Maine Lobster, Spring Onion, Meyer Lemon
The agnolotti was a surprise standout, the bright, green, sugary notes of pea really shining through, joined by the sweetness of lobster, the onion adding a fantastic crunch and kick of piquancy on the close.

Octopus a la Plancha
Octopus a la Plancha [$18.00] | Romesco, Fingerling, Lemon, Almonds
Octopus was also quite enjoyable with its supple, yet substantial bite, great char astringency, and satisfying savor, finished smartly with the tanginess of olive-romesco while potatoes grounded the dish.

Copain Syrah 'Brosseau', Chalone 2007
With the steak about to hit the table, we opened up a bottle of red wine, specifically the Copain Syrah 'Brosseau', Chalone 2007 [$92]. It stood up nicely to the meat; think aromas of dark berry, more on the palate, along with spice, savor, and a pleasant acidity.

Steak Setup Plate
Garnished plates for our steaks were a nice touch.

Steak Platter
Japanese Wagyu [$512.00/16 Oz] | Miyazaki A5 Striploin
American Wagyu [$50.00] | Center-Cut Flat Iron 10 Oz
Australian Wagyu [$58.00] | Kansas City Strip 16 Oz
Prime Black Angus [$48.00] | N.Y. Strip 12 Oz
We ordered four steaks and requested that they be pre-cut for us, though we didn't expect them to arrive in such an impressive presentation. Going clockwise from bottom-right, I began with the Miyazaki wagyu, and it was unmistakably Japanese, the cut being noticeably fattier, oilier, and more luxurious than its peers. Appropriately tender, it just oozed fat and bovine goodness, perked up just a smidge by a lovely bit of char. Real deal wagyu is something that everyone should experience at least once (if for nothing else than to have a basis for comparison against more common steaks). Next was the American wagyu flat iron, which was probably the best version of flat iron I've tasted, displaying a great beefy savor and nice amount of fat to boot. It only suffered because of a slight bit of toughness, which is just inherent to the cut. The Aussie wagyu Kansas City strip, meanwhile, was the most balanced cut, and my choice if I had to eat an entire 16-ounce steak. It had the most finesse to it, and boatloads of flavor along with a good amount of fattiness, too. I ended with the Angus New York strip, a benchmark steak, but one that simply paled in comparison with the wagyu varieties here. It was tasty enough, but just couldn't compete when it came to either marbling or depth of flavor.

Black Truffle Mac & Cheese
Black Truffle Mac & Cheese [$9.00]
Along with the steaks came a trio of sides. The truffle mac was great texturally, and appropriately cheesy, though I wanted a more apparent truffle character.

Delta Asparagus with 7 Treasures
Delta Asparagus with 7 Treasures [$9.00]
An Asian-y prep of asparagus was really quite nice, the bright bitterness and crunch of the veggie working beautifully with the sweet-n-salty lap cheong and mushrooms.

Jalapeño Creamed Corn
Jalapeño Creamed Corn [$9.00]
Creamed corn, finally, proudly conveyed the inherent sweetness of the kernels, moderated by a Southwestern-esque spice.

Bourbon Steak Glendale Dessert Menu
As for Bourbon Steak's dessert menu, it's pretty much what you'd expect from a steakhouse. Nothing fancy, but approachable and satisfying. Click for a larger version.

Mascarpone Cheesecake
Mascarpone Cheesecake [$8.00] | Bing Cherry Sauce, Meyer Lemon Curd, Vanilla Bean Crust
Cool and dense, the cheesecake gave up a lactic tanginess that played well against the sweetness of cherry while the crust crumbles added a much-appreciated textural contrast.

Butterscotch Toffee Pudding
Butterscotch Toffee Pudding [$8.00] | Salty Caramel Sauce, Warm Madeleines, Confectioner's Sugar
Butterscotch was unabashedly sugary, with an almost boozy tint to it, a fitting companion to the madeleines. Just try to scoop up the pudding without breaking the cakes.

Lemon Scented Olive Oil Cake
Lemon Scented Olive Oil Cake [$8.00] | Market Strawberries, Sicilian Pistachio, Soft Whipped Cream
An olive oil cake was moist and just savory enough, working hand-in-hand with the combination of whipped cream and strawberry.

Sazerac
Sazerac [$12.00] | Rye, Absinthe, Peychaud's Bitters, Angostura Bitters, Lemon
Along with dessert, we had Bourbon Steak's Sazerac, a classic preparation showcasing citrus-y and bittersweet nuances over a base of whiskey, with the absinthe adding a whisper of anise to the mix.

Bacon Caramel Donut
Bacon Caramel Donut [$6.00]
Bacon and caramel formed a great interplay of salt and sugar, but the doughnut was on the dense, dry side.

Michael Mina's Signature Root Beer Float
Michael Mina's Signature Root Beer Float [$9.00] | Warm Chocolate & Pecan Cookies, Sassafras Ice Cream
The root beer float was a fun way to close out the meal, with its pointedly spicy, ginger-y character working beautifully with the ice cream. The cookies, meanwhile, were on point as well, making for a nice play on a childhood favorite.

Caramels
Finally, some caramels to accompany the bill.

Going in, I didn't have terribly high hopes for Bourbon Steak, given its location in a shopping center, in Glendale. The place definitely delivered though, serving up a classic steakhouse experience with a few unexpected flourishes that made the meal all the better. It certainly represents a valiant return to LA for Michael Mina, and the team here, led by Joseph Conrad, should be commended as well. Bourbon Steak's more than a worthy addition to the steakhouse scene here in the Southland, and compares no doubt favorably to the top players in the game.

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Faith & Flower (Los Angeles, CA)

Faith and Flower Restaurant
705 W 9th St, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213.239.0642
www.faithandflowerla.com
Wed 05/21/2014, 08:05p-10:40p




Faith & Flower Exterior One of the most buzzed about Downtown debuts of late is Faith & Flower, set in the old Towne space at the bottom of WaterMarke Tower. Named after the current and historical name of its cross street Flower, the project was first announced last August, and is the work of the Coastal Luxury Management group (they're responsible for Pebble Beach Food & Wine and Los Angeles Food & Wine) and local restaurateur Stephane Bombet (of Mo-Chica, Picca, and Paiche fame). The restaurant bowed at the end of March, and features the cooking of LA neophyte Michael Hung.

About the Chef: A New Jersey native, Hung started out in New York, quitting culinary school to stage at places such as Daniel and Marcus Samuelsson's Aquavit. In 2005, he moved to San Francisco, finding employment at Traci Des Jardins's lauded Jardiniere before transitioning to Bacar and The Lark Creek Inn, later returning to Jardiniere as sous. During this period, he also worked on Pixar's award-winning Ratatouille as a consultant, joining the likes of Thomas Keller and Guy Savoy.

In March 2011, Hung was tapped by Tak Matsuba to replace opening chef Seiji Wakabayashi at Bushi-tei, but was out the following February after the restaurant was put up for sale (it ended up closing that April). The Chef launched Red Sparrow, a pop-up dining series, soon thereafter, and landed the Chef de Cuisine gig at Roland Passot's Michelin-starred La Folie in July. He also attended the University of San Francisco concurrently around this time, graduating with a Master's in Fine Arts with a focus on fiction before joining the team here at Faith & Flower in December 2013.

Joining Hung in the kitchen is Sous Chef Huy Nguyen (Josef Centeno, LudoBites 10, Ray's and Stark Bar, Jardiniere and Social Kitchen & Brewery in San Francisco, Waterloo & City, The Mercantile, Abacus in Dallas, Grace). Co-opening sous Michelle Minori (Flower + Water, Il Cano Rosso, Acquerello, La Folie, Aqua, all in the San Francisco Bay area) has since left the restaurant.

Faith & Flower Menu Faith & Flower Menu Faith & Flower Menu Faith & Flower Menu
The menu at Faith & Flower features Chef Hung's semi-rustic, Cal-global cooking in a variety of formats. Lunch and brunch are also on offer, too, if that's your thing. Click for larger versions.

Faith & Flower Beer List Faith & Flower Beer List Faith & Flower Wine List Faith & Flower Wine List Faith & Flower Cocktail List Faith & Flower Cocktail List
As for the drinks, you'll get a pretty decent selection of beers, a wine list by Wine Director Jared Hooper (Hakkasan, The Royce, Noir Food & Wine), and intriguing-sounding cocktails crafted by Chief Mixologist Michael Lay, who also worked at CLM's Rose. Rabbit. Lie. in Las Vegas and Restaurant 1833 up in Monterey. Click for larger versions.

DAILY SELECTION OF ½ DZ OYSTERS
DAILY SELECTION OF ½ DZ OYSTERS [$18.00] | G.P. Pink Peppercorn Mignonette
We went the oysters to start, which comprised two each of three varieties: Kumamoto, Kumiai, and Grassy Point. All of 'em were on point--clean, fresh, shell-free--and went swimmingly with a dash of that bracingly peppery mignonette.

DUNGENESS CRAB TOAST
DUNGENESS CRAB TOAST [$16.00] | Jicama, Pickled Sea Beans, Green Goddess Aioli
Crab toast was delightfully sweet, augmented by the fruitiness present, and paired just swell with the lushness of avocado and green goddess. The toast, meanwhile, formed a fitting base to the course, though I would've liked a bit more punch of acidity.

HARRY WINSTON
HARRY WINSTON [$14.00] | Nikka 12yr Japanese Whiskey, King's Ginger, Kuro Sato, Teapot Bitters, Flamed Orange Peel
Of course I had to give the cocktails a go, and this first one fit the bill nicely, a strong, yet smooth and sophisticated drink that smartly layered notes of ginger over a bittersweet, boozy backdrop.

DEVILED JIDORI EGGS
DEVILED JIDORI EGGS [$6.00] | Korean Chili, Kimchee
Given my penchant for deviled eggs, these were a must-try, natch. Think of your traditional flavors, but amped up by the funky, spicy kick of gochujang and kimchi.

EGGS BENEDICT PIZZA
EGGS BENEDICT PIZZA [$16.00] | Smoked Bacon, Spinach, Hollandaise Sauce
A classic Eggs Benedict comprises bacon, eggs, and Hollandaise atop an English muffin, and this pizza-fied version nicely captured the essence of the original. You had the combo of egg, creamy Hollandaise, and salty bacon, which was satisfying in its own right, but the addition of spinach provided a great, countervailing astringency to things that really brought it all together.

DUCK LIVER MOUSSE TARTS
DUCK LIVER MOUSSE TARTS [$6.00] | Grenadine Candied Onions
Duck liver was deftly presented here, its rich, yet restrained character dutifully evened out by the sweet-n-sour crunch of candied onions, all while the pastry did an admirable job in moderating the entire bite.

OXTAIL AGNOLOTTI
OXTAIL AGNOLOTTI [$17.00] | Bone Marrow Butter, Tangerine Salsa, Beef Tendon Chicharrones
This next plate came highly recommended by our server, and he was right on the money. The actual pasta was as tasty as you'd expect thanks to the use of oxtail, but it was the combination of bright, tangy salsa and crunchy, salty chicharrón that really took this dish to the next level, forming perfect accoutrements to the agnolotti.

MONTANA CLUB
MONTANA CLUB [$14.00] | Grohusko - Jack's Manual 1908; Marie Duffau Bas Armagnac Napoleon, Carpano Antica, Fernet Branca, Absinthe, Currants, F&F Aromatic Bitters
My next cocktail also veered toward the robust side, this one really offering up a multifaceted presentation of herbal, astringent, almost medicinal nuances set against contrasting sweet, nutty tones.

BACON WRAPPED PORK TENDERLOIN
BACON WRAPPED PORK TENDERLOIN [$17.00] | Grilled Over Mesquite, Country Ham Gravy
Cooked a touch rare, just how I like it, the pork impressed, giving us a slightly smoky, slight "hammy" sort of savor that was further enhanced by the salty strips of bacon here. Very tasty, though the crunchy slivers of nuts on top didn't quite seem necessary.

SEARED RED ROCK COD
SEARED RED ROCK COD [$16.00] | Calçot Onions, Fennel, Saffron Bouillon
Red rock cod was delicious, a firm, hearty filet beautifully paired with the zest of calçots and fennel, the saffron broth adding an enveloping, aromatic component to the mix.

VAUDEVILLE
VAUDEVILLE [$12.00] | Square One Botanical Vodka, Lemon, Raspberry Gum, F&F Aromatic Bitters, Rosemary, Italian Meringue
My final cocktail made great use of vodka, the spirit setting the stage for a bevy of sweet, sour, and herbaceous notes on the palate. I was quite the fan of the frothiness here, too.

SAUTEED MONTEREY CALAMARI
SAUTEED MONTEREY CALAMARI [$9.00] | Moroccan Spiced Vinaigrette, Grilled Sourdough
Squid was snappy and springy to the bite, and well-spiced to take advantage of the calamari's inherent brine. I wasn't quite sold on the use of sourdough as a base here, though.

WARM ENGLISH PEAS and GOLD BEETS
WARM ENGLISH PEAS and GOLD BEETS [$8.00] | Smoked Sheep's Milk Ricotta
The combo of peas and beets was surprisingly effective, sort of forming a sweet, yet slightly nutty flavor profile that linked up well with the creaminess of that ricotta.

SEARED BRANZINO
SEARED BRANZINO [$23.00] | Marinated Rock Shrimp, Blood Orange Bearnaise
Loup de mer did not disappoint either with its wonderfully crisp skin and flavorful flesh. The fish easily stood alone, but I much appreciated the inclusion of rock shrimp here as well, not to mention the zip of the citrus-y Béarnaise.

RIBEYE
RIBEYE [$38.00/12 oz] | Grilled Over Mesquite, Vermouth and Oyster Jus
Our final savory brought out a rib eye, grilled over mesquite, which gave the meat a smoky quality that worked hand-in-hand with the inherent goodness of the beef. The steak was tasty just by itself, but the inclusion of an oyster-y jus did add just a touch more potency to the fold.

Faith & Flower Dessert Menu
Time for some sweet stuff. Desserts here are the task of Executive Pastry Chef Ben Spungin (Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley, Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur, The French Laundry), while day-to-day operations are handled by Pastry Chef Indelisa Zarate (also from Bernardus and Post Ranch, no relation to Ricardo). Click for a larger version.

HAZELNUT CHOCOLATE FEULLEITINE
HAZELNUT CHOCOLATE FEULLEITINE [$8.00] | Chocolate Cremeux, Toasted Meringue, Caramel
Our first dessert brought together the winning combination of chocolate and hazelnut, a sweet, nutty mélange balanced by the use of scorched meringue.

GOAT YOGURT PANNA COTTA
GOAT YOGURT PANNA COTTA [$8.00] | Yuzu Granite, Puffed Wild Rice, Honey, Blackberries
The panna cotta, meanwhile, really showed off a sour, lactic sort of tanginess, one offset by the use of honey and blackberry. I was a big fan of the puffed rice here as well, which imparted a great crunch and hint of savoriness.

Russian Absinthe Service Leap of Faith Russian Absinthe Service Leap of Faith Russian Absinthe Service
To conclude our evening, we were presented with the restaurant's "Russian style" absinthe service, deemed the "Leap of Faith." Our server Camden proceeded to pour some La Fée into a glass, set it aflame, and stream the glowing liquid atop a tumbler containing root beer before capturing the remaining vapors in the glass. We were then instructed to use a straw to inhale said vapor before taking a swig of the absinthe-root beer combo. It actually worked out surprisingly well, the aromas of absinthe really enhancing the sweet, refreshing, anise-laced beverage.

Faith & Flower Check Box
The presentation of the evening's bill was certainly one of the schmancier versions I'd seen.

I initially approached Faith & Flower with a bit of trepidation. Given Coastal Luxury Management's background, I was afraid that the place would tend toward overly corporate-y. Perhaps Bombet helped temper some of that, because I was actually quite happy with the cooking here. Hung's style can be described as Cal-rustic with some global influences, which is not uncommon these days, but there's a certain je ne sais quoi to the food that managed to satisfy while retaining a bit of accessibility. My dining companions were similarly impressed, and I'm certain that this place will have no problem outlasting its predecessor.