Sunday, January 15, 2023

Fanny's (Los Angeles, CA)

Fannys Restaurant and Café
6067 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036
Sun 01/15/2023, 06:45p-10:00p

Fanny's Exterior

As you probably already know, prolific LA restaurateur Bill Chait is back with a vengeance, and his latest project, situated in the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, goes by the name of Fanny's. Created in partnership with Carl Schuster (Cast Iron Partners), Wolfgang Puck Catering, and the Fran & Ray Stark Foundation, the Miracle Mile eatery, named after early 1900s entertainer Fanny Brice, opened for lunch on September 30th, 2021, with dinner arriving the following January. The restaurant aims to present an updated version of Old Hollywood glamor, and Chef Raphael Francois (whom we first encountered at Tesse) has been tapped to take charge of the menu. None other than Julian Cox, meanwhile, created the cocktail program, while Jordan Ogron (also Tesse), Wine Director Henri Marquis (Café del Rey, Coco Laurent, Fig & Olive), and Jimmy Ornelas (Ospi, Fia, Providence, Otium, Post & Beam) handle the wine and front-of-the-house.

Fanny's Interior
Fanny's Dining Room
Fanny's resides on the ground floor of Mid-Wilshire's historic May Company Building, now known as the Saban Building. The two-level space spans roughly 10,000 square-feet, and was penned by Commune Design and the late Osvaldo Maiozzi (Otium, The Rose, Playa, Rivera, Angelini Osteria). The inspiration here is classic Hollywood-meets-Art Deco, and it works. Do note that the photos above were taken at the end of the night; the place was significantly busier when we first arrived.

Fanny's Cafe
Fanny's also boasts a much more casual café area near the entrance.

Fanny's Sunday Supper Menu Fanny's Cocktail List Fanny's Wine List
The menu here normally reads pretty classic American, but on Sundays, the restaurant currently offers dishes inspired by The Godfather, coinciding with an exhibit at the museum. As for drinks, you get movie-inspired cocktails and a wine list with a lil' bit of everything. Click for larger versions.

Fried Smoked Mozzarella
Fried Smoked Mozzarella [$15.00] | marinara
We commenced with this fancified version of mozzarella sticks. I enjoyed the subtle smoke that permeated the dish, as well as the contrast provided by the tangy marinara, but the cheese itself really should've been softer, gooier.

Live and Let Die
Live and Let Die [$19.00] | Gin, Shochu, Lime, Ginger, Umami, Orange "Air"
We opted for cocktails this evening, and I sure didn't expect our first one to be tinted a vibrant shade of turquoise. The drink's bubbles tickled the nose, and offered notes of citrus to go along with the shochu-fueled, savory flavors present, juxtaposed against hints of zesty ginger.

Black Truffle Hummus
Black Truffle Hummus [$19.00] | crispy mushroom, parsley, toasted bread
This reworked version of hummus was to my liking. The muskiness of the truffle melded easily with the nutty chickpeas, while mushrooms amped up the woodsiness factor even further. Given the strong flavors at play, the parsley was crucial for balance. Nice crunch on the toast, too.

Orange Omen
Orange Omen [$19.00] | blended scotch, averna amaro, amaretto, bitters, orange peel
This decidedly boozy cocktail demonstrated a nose filled with amaretto sweetness, backed by the unmistakable punch of the whisky. Tasting it, I got signature notes of Scotch underpinned by amaro bitterness and again, a discernible sugariness from the nutty liqueur.

Caesar (Plated)
Caesar [$20.00] | whole leaf gem, long leaf treviso, anchovy, crispy blue corn, green chili caesar
Prepared tableside, the Caesar was a standout, and one of the best versions of the dish I've ever had. I loved the crunch of the blue corn, as well as the subdued heat provided by the chilies, but the crux here was how well integrated the anchovy was with the dressing. Its brine really was the focal point of the salad for me, while the crispness of the veggies was also spot on.

Fight Club
Fight Club [$18.00] | Mezcal, Amontillado Sherry, Banana, Apple Cinnamon, Vanilla, Whey
This next cocktail came teeming with sweet, autumnal spice, but offset just enough by a boozy base of mezcal and the distinct character of Amontillado.

Duck Carbonara
Duck Carbonara [$32.00] | chitarra, egg yolk, parmigiano
I have a hard time turning down carbonara (it's probably one of my favorite pastas), and tonight was no exception to that rule. Duck was substituted for the usual pork, and indeed, its rich, salty, dark-toned flavors made for a suitable replacement. However, I would've liked a firmer texture on the spaghetti, and also some more aggressive black pepper.

Million Dollar Baby
Million Dollar Baby [$18.00] | Blanco Tequila, Granny Smith Apple, Le Verger, Melon, Soda, Caramel Paint
This long cocktail was definitely on the more quaffable side thanks to its unabashedly fruity notes of apple and melon, supported by the potency of tequila.

Shrimp Scampi
Shrimp Scampi [$28.00] | spaghetti, lemon, garlic
Our second pasta dish featured very complementary flavors of garlic and lemon, though again, I wanted less cook on the spaghetti, as well as the actual shrimp.

One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest
One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest [$19.00] | White Rum, Cocchi Americano, Basil Eau de Vie, Mommenpop Makrut Lime
My penultimate cocktail showcased a nose filled with citric astringency, while its taste went in a bittersweet, boozy, slightly herby direction, but with a sugary finish.

Sicilian Message
Sicilian Message [$46.00] | branzino, gnocchi, wild mushrooms
Our final savory was another highlight. Branzino arrived juicy and flavorful, its sweet salinity deftly tempered by some properly supple gnocchi. I couldn't fault the earthy smack of those 'shrooms, either.

World's Best Martini
World's Best Martini [$21.00] | (no pressure)
I'm not sure if this is the world's best, but it was certainly a pretty damn tasty preparation of the iconic cocktail. Made with a mix of gin and vodka, it was spirit-forward and sophisticated, and showed off a floral element, a healthy amount of olive, and a smidgen of yuzu that only grew more apparent toward the close.

Cake of the Day
Cake of the Day [$10.00]
We'd initially requested the Neapolitan cake, but the kitchen had run out, so we were offered this in its stead. It was a pretty classic chocolate cake, and hit all the expected notes, though it perhaps should've been served a bit warmer to achieve a softer consistency on the buttercream.

Crème Brûlée
Crème Brûlée [$12.00] | espresso custard, salted meringue
Closing things out was the crème brûlée, which featured a custard base rife with focused flavors of coffee. The dessert's caramelized, shattery top was on point, and I also appreciated the salt and textural contrast provided by the meringue.

As mentioned above, I identified a few areas for improvement with some of our dishes, though overall, the meal was generally still enjoyable. The cocktails were also worth trying, and I was also satisfied with the service, which is more upscale than one would expect given this place's museum setting. Now do keep in mind that we had the Sunday Supper menu, so I wouldn't mind checking out the restaurant's normal offerings to see how they compare.


Blogger H.Peter said...

That salad looks indeed top shelf. So does the Carbonara.
The desserts though, more of a Cheesecake factory look.

Sunday, January 29, 2023 11:08:00 PM  
Blogger Tony said...

Why you no drink the Parasite? I wanted to see what a gochujang drink looks like!!

Sunday, January 29, 2023 11:44:00 PM  
Blogger kevinEats said...

H.Peter: I wouldn't know--I don't think I've been to a Cheesecake Factory in at least two decades!

Tony: You know, I think the soju turned me off a bit, but in hindsight, you're right, I should have gotten it.

Thursday, February 02, 2023 12:10:00 AM  

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